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The Pumpkin Sweater had to be posted last week, but I was super busy trying to finish some other projects that I had, that I didn’t have time to write.

But here it is:  an easy and super fun pattern.

I enjoyed making it and I hope you will try it.

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The Pumpkin Sweater Free Pattern and video tutorial

You can purchase the easy printable add-free pdf pattern from here

The idea of this Pumpkin Sweater came after I bought this beautiful Merino wool yarn which came in 4 skeins of 50 grams each (160 m) with a beautiful degrade. The Yarn is from hobbii.com and is called Mayflowers Merino the collection.

picture from hobbii.com

You can find there some beautiful colors.

This particular yarn is light and according with the weight is a fingering 4 ply yarn, but according with the thickness, I would say that is closer to a DK, worsted yarn.

So,  a DK worsted yarn might work too for this pattern. If you want to obtain the degrade, you can work with a thinner yarn, choosing two colors and working with 2 strands of yarn, using for the middle part, one strand of one color and one strand of the other.

The pattern is for sizes from 6 months up to 4-5 years and is wrote in US terms.

The total amount of yarn you will need for each size is:

  • 6 months – 140 gr/ 430 m/ 470 yds
  • 12 – 18 months – 160 gr / 510 m / 560 yds
  • 2 – 3 years – 170 gr / 545 m / 590 yds
  • 4 – 5 years – 200 gr / 630 m / 690 yds

The final dimensions of the Pumpkin Sweater are in the diagram bellow:

About the design

The Pumpkin sweater is a raglan sweater worked from top to bottom.

Starting with a yoke and then separating the sleeves from the body of the sweater. Then working the sleeves and body individually.

I liked working with raglan because no assembly is needed.

 

You might also like:

  1. Snowdrop Cardigan; 2. Mini Fancy Sweater 

3. Blue-Sky Cadi

The stitch that I used is the Cross Stitch. I alternate one round in single crochet and one in double crochet cross stitch.

Here is the stitch chart and the beginning of the yoke:

Pumpkin sweater stitch pattern chart

So, the first round will be in single crochet and the second in double crochet cross stitch.

For all the sweater we will only repeat these 2 rounds.

Cross stitch

Skip one stitch and make 1 dc in the next. Then go back and make 1 dc in the stitch that you skipped.

Abbreviation used in this pattern

Ch – chain

Sc – single crochet

Dc – double crochet

dc cross – double crochet cross stitch

St(s) – stitch (es)

Sl st – slip stitch

Inc – Increase (3 sc in the same st on the round in sc or 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc on the round in dc cross)

Dec – decrease

Gauge

9 dc cross = 10 cm (4″)

18 sc = 10 cm (4″)

12 rows ( 1 sc and 1 dc cross) = 10 cm (4″)

the pumpkin sweater

You can purchase the easy printable add-free pdf pattern from here

Now with all these things being said we can start the Pumpkin Sweater.

First the foundation chain:

  • 6 month – 56 sts
  • 12 – 18 months – 64 sts
  • 2 – 3 years – 72 sts
  • 4 – 5 years – 80 sts

Join with sl st.

Round 1

For this round the number of sts for sizes 12 – 18 months, 2-3 years and 4-5 years are wrote between brackets.

Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st  1 sc in the next 7 (8, 9, 10) sts, 1 inc in the next (3 sc in the same st).

Continue with 1 sc in the next 10 (12, 14, 16) sts, 1 inc in the next st, 1 sc in the next 16 (18, 20, 22) sts, 1 inc in the next, 1 sc in the next 10 (12, 14, 16) sts, 1 inc in the next, 1 sc in the last 8 (9, 10, 11) sts.

Sl st to join.

To be more easy to know where to increase on the next round, put a stitch marker in the second st of the increase.

Round 2

Ch 2, 1 dc in the same stitch, dc cross to the marked st, 1 inc ( 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the marked st.

Continue with the dc cross to the next corner ( next marked st) and here make another inc.

Continue like this to the end of the round and join with a sl st with the 1st dc.

Pumpkin Sweater

We will repeat to alternate these 2 rounds until we finished the yoke and have in total:

6 months – 16 rounds

12 – 18 months – 16 rounds

2-3 years – 16 rounds

4-5 years – 18 rounds

On the next round we will separate the sleeves from the body of the pumpkin sweater.

Pumpkin sweater the yoke

You can purchase the easy printable add-free pdf pattern from here

We will start the round as normal and working 1 sc in each st until the first corner.

To make the join we will make 2 sc together, one in the fist corner, then skip the sts for the sleeve and make the second sc in the second corner.

Yarn over and pull the yarn trough all loops on the hook.

At this round I changed the color with the second one.

pumpkin sweater separating round

Now we will continue to work on the body of the Pumpkin Sweater until you have in total (counting from the armpit to the bottom):

6 months – 24 rounds

12 – 18 months – 26 rounds

2 – 3 years – 30 rounds

4 – 5 years – 32 rounds.

Having 3 more colors, I just divided the number of rounds at 3, and worked the same number of rounds with each color.

Sleeves

Round 1

Starting from the armpit, join the yarn and make 1 sc in each st around.

Make sure that you have an even number of sts because you will need that on the dc cross round.

If you don’t have, just make 1 sc more to get to an even number.

Round 2

Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, dc cross to the end of the round. Join with a sl st.

Round 3

Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st, 1 dec ( sc2tog), 1 sc in each st until you have 2 sts left, 1 dec in these 2 sts. Sl st to join.

Repeat round 2 and 3 until you have in total

6 months – 14 rounds

12 – 18 months – 14 rounds

2 – 3 years – 20 rounds

4 – 5 years – 20 rounds

Then continue to alternate one round in sc and one round in dc cross, without decreasing:

6 months – 6 more rounds

12 – 18 months – 8 more rounds

2 – 3 years – 6 more rounds

4- 5 years – 8 more rounds.

And 1 sleeve is done. For the colors I used the same pattern as for the body of the Pumpkin Sweater, only that with the last color I made less rounds because the sleeve is shorter.

Repeat the same pattern for the second sleeve and the Pumpkin Sweater is done.

Pumpkin Sweater

You can purchase the easy printable add-free pdf pattern from here

For the border I used “twisted single crochet” st. You can see how is done in the video tutorial bellow.

Hope you will love this pattern as I do and to try it.

https://ro.pinterest.com/katerina6795/free-crochet-patterns/

The Pumpkin Sweater. Free pattern with stitch chart, diagram and video tutorial. For sizes from 6 months to 4-5 years

Pumpkin Sweater. Free Pattern & Video Tutorial

 


Hey there! Here is my new Crocheted Top – Skirt that I made last week. It’s a very easy and fun project. Easy because you can make it in any size you want from children sizes to any adult size.

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Crocheted Top - skirt. One piece and 3 ways to wear it

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

 

All the last year adult autumn winter patterns are available for just 1 Euro if you purchase the bundle of 9 or 2 Euros if you want to purchase an individual pattern in this category.

 

autumn - winter pattern sale

Click the image above or visit my shop.

 

Looks nice isn’t it? You can make it longer or shorter depending on your taste and time.

Materials

  • 14 ply Fingering yarn or 12 ply Sport Yarn (I used Cotton Kings TWIRLS. You can find this yarn following the next link (not an affiliate link ) hobbii.com
  • 3.5 mm (E) and 4 mm (G) hook size
  • Elastic band
  • sewing needle
  • scissors
  • measuring tape
  • yarn for sewing

Final Measurement (waist)

  • S – 66 cm (26 “)
  • M – 74 cm (29″)
  • L – 84 cm (33″)
  • 1X – 94 cm (37″)
  • 2X – 104 cm (41″)
  • 3X – 112 cm (44″)

The length is for all sizes 50 cm ( 19.5 “), but you can adjust the length of the crocheted top-skirt by making more or less rounds.

Yardage

If you obtain the same gauge as mine or the same number of sts for each size then you will need approximate:

  • S – 875 yds / 800 m / 200 gr
  • M – 1000 yds / 914 m /230 gr
  • L – 1130 yds / 1030 m / 260 gr
  • 1X – 1250 yds / 1140 m / 285 gr
  • 2X – 1380 yds /1260 m / 320 gr
  • 3X – 1490 yds /1360 m / 340 gr

Gauge

with 3.5 mm (E) hook

18 dc = 10 cm (4″)

10 rows = 10 cm (4″)

In 10 cm of elastic band I had 50 sc

What stitches you will have to know

  • Chain (ch)
  • Single Crochet (Sc)
  • Double crochet (dc)
  • Slip stitch (sl st)
  • 2 double crochet worked together (dc2tog) – yarn over, insert the hook trough the st, yarn over and pull the yarn trough first 2 loops ( keep 2 loops on your hook. Repeat 2 times. Yarn over and pull the yar trough all 3 loops on your hook
  • 4 double crochet worked together (dc4tog) – the same as dc2tog, only that you will do this for time, in 4 sts.

Top- skirt. One piece, 3 ways to wear it

Now we can start the Top-skirt.

First, grab a measuring tape and measure your waist, or you can get the elastic band it self and put it around your waist. The idea is that after this procedure you will have one elastic band that measures your waist.

Next, sew the edges of the elastic band, to make a circle.

The measurements of the elastic band are the same as the final waist measurement that I listed above.

Round 1

In single crochet, we will work in rounds and cover the elastic band. When you get to the end of the round sl st to join.Top - skirt round 1

Round 2

Ch 1 and 1 sc in each stitch. At this round you will have to count the sts that you have.

According to my gauge you should have:

  • S – 332 sts
  • M – 372 sts
  • L – 422 sts
  • 1X – 472 sts
  • 2X – 522 sts
  • 3X – 562 sts

If you don’t have the same number of sts is not a problem. We will adjust the number of sts on the next round.

 

All you have to know is that gauge isn’t that important in this crocheted top-skirt pattern. If the elastic band fits your waist then every thing will be just perfect.

 

The only think that matter is to have a multiple of 16 sts. As you can see, the numbers above aren’t multiple of 16, that’s why we will do the next round in double crochet and we will adjust that.

Round 3

1 dc in each st and as many increases that you need to get to a multiple of 16 sts.

Let’s see how we can find how many increases you have to make on this round.

Divide the number of sts that you have by 16.

ex: 332 ÷ 16 = 20.75

Now take the next number (in the ex above 21) and multiply it with 16 (21 × 16 = 336).

So in hour example we will need 336 sts to have a multiple of 16. We have 332 sts, so we will need 4 more sts. So we will do 4 increases during the round 3.

So:

  • S – we have 332 sts and we will add 4 sts, in total 336 sts
  • M – we have 372 sts, add 12 sts, in total 384 sts
  • L – we have 422 sts, add 10 sts, in total 432 sts
  • 1X – we have 472 sts, add 8 sts, in total 480 sts
  • 2X – we have 522 sts, add 6 sts, in total 528 sts
  • 3X – we have 562 sts, add 14 sts, in total 576 sts

 

Now that we have the needed number of sts, we can begin with the stitch pattern of our Crocheted  Top-Skirt.

 

We will start counting the round again from 1.

 

This is the chart for the stitch of the Crocheted Top-Skirt:

Top- skirt chart

Stitch pattern source: ellej.org

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

We will work in rounds so we will start and end a little bit different.

Round 1

Begin with 3 sl st. Ch 3. This chain 3 counts as a first dc. 1 dc in the same ch 3 st, 1 dc in the next 3 sts. Ch 3, skip 3 sts, 1 dc in the next 3, 2 dc in the next.

[Ch 3, skip the next 5 sts, 2 dc in the next, 1 dc in the next 3 sts. Ch 3, skip the next 3 sts, 1 dc in the next 3, 2 dc in the next].

 

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round. The round will end with ch 3, skip the last 5 sts and join with sl st with the 3rd st of the starting ch.

Round 2

Ch 3, 1 dc in the next 2 sts, dc2tog in the next 2

[ch 5, skip the ch 3, dc2tog in the next 2 sts, 1 dc in the next 3, ch 2, skip the ch 3, 1 dc in the next 3 sts, dc2tog in the next 2].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round. The round will end with dc2tog, 1 dc in the next 3, ch 2 and join with sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.

Round 3 

Ch 3, 1 dc in the next st, dc2tog in the next 2.

[ch 3, 2 dc in the 3rd st of the 5 sts chain, ch 3, dc2tog in the next 2 sts, 1 dc in the next 2, ch 1, skip the ch 2, 1 dc in the next 2 sts, dc2tog in the next 2]

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round. The round will end with dc2tog, 1 dc in the next 2 sts, ch 1 and join with the 3rd st of the starting chain.

Round 4

Ch 3, dc2tog in the next 2 sts.

[Ch 3, skip the ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc, ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc, ch 3, skip the ch 3, dc2tog in the next 2 sts, 1 dc in next, skip the ch1, 1 dc in the next st, dc2tog in the next 2 sts].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round. The round will end with dc2tog, 1 dc in next, join with the 3rd st of the starting ch.

Round 5

Ch2, 1 dc in the next.

[Ch3, skip the ch 3, 2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 2, ch 2, 1 dc in the next 2, ch 3, dc4tog]

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round ending the round with 3 partial dc, then insert the hook into the st at the beginning of the round, yarn over end pull the yarn trough all loops on your hook( we will finish this way the dc4tog).

 

So, these are the first 5 rounds that we will have to repeat to the end of our Crocheted Top-Skirt.

Top - Skirt first 5 rounds

Round 6 and each next round after a set of 5, will be the same as round 1. Just a little bit different counting that we are not working in a foundation.

Let’s see:

 

First, every round after a set of 5, has to start in a dc. So, we will slip the stitches to the first dc ( a ch 3).

Then, ch3, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in the next 3 sts, ch 3, skip the ch 2, 1 dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next.

[Ch 3, skip the (ch 3, dc4tog st, ch 3), 2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 3,  ch 3, skip the ch 2, 1 dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round ending the round with ch 3, skip the ch 2, 1 dc in the next 3, 2 dc in next, ch 3, skip (ch 3, dc4tog, ch 3) and join with the 3rd st of the starting chain.

The other 4 rounds of a set of 5, will be the same as rounds 2, 3, 4and 5.

 

Repeat the set of 5 rounds until you get do the desired length. I made 35 rounds, but if you want a shorter or a longer skirt or top make more or less rounds.

a skirt and a top in one single piece

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Hope you will like this pattern also and you will try it. Can’t wait to see your pictures.

???

Bellow you will find the video tutorial.

https://ro.pinterest.com/katerina6795/free-crochet-patterns/

 

3 in 1 Crocheted Top - Skirt. Free Pattern & Video Tutorial

 

The Summer is almost gone, so I grabbed my hook and I made this Basic T-shirt in Crochet to have it on the days left.

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Basic T-shirt in Crochet

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Last week I was renovated my bathroom, so I didn’t had time to post anything. But here I am with a new summer project that I hope you will enjoy.

Is a simple yoke T-shirt, worked from top to bottom. Is easy to make and you will find here all the info that you will need to make it.

I designed this pattern for sizes from S to 2X, but you can adjusted as you want or need.

Now let’s talk about materials you will need:

I used Scheepjes Whirl in color Dark Grape Squish and a 3.5 mm ( E size ) crochet hook. You will have to work looser. 1 whirl will be enough for any size, but if you want to make changes, as make the Basic T-shirt in Crochet longer or with longer sleeves, for bigger sizes, 1X and 2X you will need some additional yarn.

If you want to use another yarn use a similar weight as baby or sport or even fingering.

You will also need 4 stitch markers and scissors.

Basic T-shirt in Crochet

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

 

If you choose to use another yarn here is the approximate amount of yarn that you will need:

  • S – 150 grams / 680 m / 740 yds
  • M – 160 grams / 730 m/ 790 yds
  • L – 170 grams / 780 m/ 850 yds
  • 1X – 190 grams / 830 m / 910 yds
  • 2X – 200 grams / 890 m / 970 yds

The final measurements of the Basic T-shirt in Crochet are in the next sketch

 

Basic T-shirt in crochet sketch

 

Gauge

18 dc = 10 cm (4″)

10 rounds = 10 cm (4″)

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

  • Ch – chain
  • Dc – double crochet
  • St(s) – stitch (es)
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Inc – increase ( 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc)
  • Dec – decrease ( dc2tog – 2 dc work together as a cluster)

Ok, now with all these things in mind, let’s begin:

We will work in rounds from top to bottom. Start with the foundation chain:

  • S – 136
  • M – 146
  • L – 156
  • XL – 164
  • XXL – 172

After finishing the foundation sl st to finish the round.

Round 1

Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a first dc), 1 dc in next 31 (34, 36, 38, 40) sts, 1 inc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 30 (32, 35, 37,39) sts, 1 inc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 36 ( 39, 41, 43, 45) sts, 1 inc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 30 (32, 35, 37,39), 1 inc, 1 dc in the last 5 sts. Sl st.

In each 4 ch 1 spaces of the increases put a stitch marker.

Round 2

Ch 2, 1 dc in each dc until you get to the next ch 1 space. Here you will do the inc. Continue until the end of the round.

Repeat round 2 until you have in total:

  • S – 12 rounds
  • M – 14 rounds
  • L – 15 rounds
  • XL – 18 rounds
  • XXL – 21 rounds

After completing these rounds, the yoke is done and is time to separate the sleeves from the body of the Basic T-shirt in Crochet.

Start the next round as usual. Make 1 dc in each st until you get to the first corner. In the ch 1 space make 1 dc. Then, to join with the front side make a chain of:

  • S – 14 sts
  • M – 18 sts
  • L – 20 sts
  • XL – 24 sts
  • XXL – 26 sts

Skip the sts for the sleeve and in the second corner make 1 dc. Continue with 1 dc in each st, until the next corner.

Here  we will proceed the same as we did in the other side. Finish the round.

Now that we separate the body of the t-shirt from the sleeves we can work the parts individual.

Using a color changing yarn I worked 3 rows on each part just to make sure that the colors will be the same.

I did this only until I finished the sleeves.

Basic T-shirt in Crochet

On the body I made a few increases. At every 3 rows 1 single increase / row ( 2 dc in the same st).

First inc I made it in the 10th st, the next one, after another 3 rounds, in the 20th st and so on until the end of the body. I made in total 33 rounds and you will have to do 33 rounds for every size.

The length will be adjusted from the yoke. If you want a longer t-shirt you can do more rounds.

Ok, now let’s see how we will work the sleeves.

We will start from the middle of the ch that we made when we joined the back and front side.

We will work in rounds making 1 dc in each st. At every 3 rounds we will make 1 decrease at the beginning and at the end of the round.

We will do in total:

  • S, M – 12 rounds
  • L, XL, XXL – 15 rounds

After finishing the Basic T-shirt in Crochet we will add a border on the neck line, bottom line and on the sleeves.

On the sleeves fold 3 rounds and secure the fold by sewing at the armpit.

Because we will fold the edges of the sleeves, work the border on the wrong side.

For the border I used the last color in my whirl, but if you work with a solid color you may choose for the border a contrasting one.

And the Basic T-shirt in Crochet is done.

Basic T-shirt in Crochet

 

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

What do you think? Looks nice isn’t it?

So, you’ll have to give it a try.

Bellow you will also find the video tutorial.

Enjoy Crochet ! ???

https://ro.pinterest.com/katerina6795/free-crochet-patterns/

Basic T-shirt. Free Pattern & Video Tutorial