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Bykaterina

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I started this Rayee Cardigan as a backup project to have it on hand when I need a break from my other projects. I always had and have something like this, usually a knitting one.

It’s funny that I never think about these projects as a future pattern; everything is so relaxing. But, when I posted about this Rayee Cardigan on Social Media, you asked for the pattern, so here I am. The challenge was also to make a video tutorial. And because I didn’t want to make another full-size cardigan, I went for a smaller version for my daughter. I hope the video tutorial and this written pattern will help you make your own Rayee Cardigan.

I wanted to use some of the single-color skeins I had in my stash with this project, and color blocks or stripes were perfect.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing from this page, I may receive some commissions. This won’t cost you anything, no additional costs for you, as the merchant pays the commission.
In this way, you support me, and I will be highly grateful.

So. let’s see what we need and how to make this Rayee Cardigan.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Medium weight yarn, size 4, worsted, heavy worsted, aran

• Knitting Needles
o 8 mm cable needles (80 cm cable, or more)

• 8 mm cable needle short (40 cm length counting the hands and the cable) or double pointed needles or you can use another method to work short circumference like loop method)

• optional 8 mm crochet hook for binding off and assembling (you can also choose to join the shoulders differently.

• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Rayee Cardigan has a classic drop-shoulder design with an oversized fit with a positive ease of about 41 cm around the bust circumference.

The front and back panels are worked together up to the armpit. Then split the entire piece into front and back panels which are worked individually.

After finishing the entire piece, pick up the stitches from the armhole and work the sleeves.

The cardigan is worked in a stripe pattern, but it can also be worked in one single color. Also, the number of rows for each color block can be adjusted as we want or need.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Rayee Cardigan is available in 9 sizes, from XS to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with an 88 cm Bust circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL); the US sizes 0/2 (4/6, 8/10, 12/14) (14/16W, 18/20W, 22/24W, 26/28W, 30/32W)
All the measurements use as reference Standard Body Measurements by ASTM International.

Bust width a: 61.5 cm (64.5, 67, 70.5) (74, 79, 84, 89, 94)
Armhole depth b: 18 cm (19, 19, 21) (22, 22, 23, 24, 26)
Sleeve Length c: 30 cm (29, 29, 29) (28, 28, 29, 29, 30)
Length d: 56.5 cm (56.5, 56.5, 56.5) (57.5, 57.5, 58.5, 58.5, 58.5)

How much yarn do you need?

I used for my sample Wander Acrylic Yarn by Furls Crochet. Each skein has 100 grams and approximately 109 meters / 120 yds. I used 5 colors: Laguna, Campfire, Moonbeam, Aurora, Velvet
For each size, you will approximately need:
Laguna (blue): 98 meters (102, 106, 112) (118, 125, 136, 142, 153)
Aurora (Pink): 94 meters (98, 102, 107) (113, 119, 129, 137, 145)
Campfire (orange): 94 meters (98, 102, 107) (113, 119, 129, 137, 145)
Moonbeam (Grey): 84 meters (88, 91, 96) (102, 107, 116, 123, 131)
Velvet (Burgundy): 32 meters (33, 35, 36) (39, 41, 44, 46, 50)

In total: 402 meters (416, 434, 457) (482, 510, 552, 583, 623)

You can purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

ABBREVIATIONS

k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit two together
yo – yarn over
s – slip purlwise
R – rows
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 8 mm needles:
in eyelet stitch pattern
11 sts = 10 cm
16 rows = 10cm
in stockinette stitch pattern
12 sts = 10 cm
15 rows = 10 cm

You can purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The entire cardigan is worked in a mesh (eyelet) stitch pattern with a knit 1, purl 1 ribbing.

*The stitch pattern above shows the main stitch pattern, the eyelet stitch pattern. Consider that for the Rayee Cardigan, the repeated section will be the same, only that we will work within the same row,  the side ribbings.

PATTERN NOTES

  • The stitch pattern requires a multiple of 2sts.
  • Always slip purlwise the first st in a row and finish the row with a knit stitch.
  • the front panels ribbing is worked in the same row
  • if you want to adjust the pattern (number of sts or rows), keep a multiple of 2 sts and a multiple of 4 rows to be easier to follow the pattern along
  • Use any method you like for casting on and binding off.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

INSTRUCTIONS

The instructions below are written without color change. The color pattern I used for the sample was:

16 rows with color A
2 rows with color B
2 rows with color A

repeat this pattern; color A will be color B and color B will be color C, and so on
I worked only 6 rows for the last color to complete the length.

LENGTH TO THE ARMPIT
Cast on 138 (142,148, 156) (164, 174, 186, 196, 208)

R1: k1, p1 until the end of the row.
R2-R8: rep. R1
R9: s1, (k1, p1) 7sts, * k2tog, yo. *Rep. until you have 8sts left, (p1, k1) 8sts;

R10: s1, (k1, p1) 7sts, p all sts until you have 8sts left, (p1, k1) 8sts;
R11(rs): s1, (k1, p1) 7sts, * yo, k2tog, . *Rep. until you have 8sts left, (p1, k1) 8sts;
R12: rep. R10
Rep. R9 – R12 until you have in total:
56 (56, 56, 56) (56, 52, 52, 52, 50) rows.
*if you want to adjust the length, work as many rows as you wish on this section, but keep a multiple of 4 rows.

DIVIDE FOR BACK AND FRONT PANELS

use stitch markers and mark the stitches for the left front panel, back panel, and right front panel as follows:

XS: 35, 68, 35 sts
S: 35, 70, 35 sts
M: 37, 74, 37 sts
L: 39, 78, 39 sts
XL: 41, 82, 41 sts
XXL: 43, 88, 43 sts
3XL: 47, 92, 47 sts
4XL: 49, 98, 49 sts
5XL: 53, 102, 53 sts

You can purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

RIGHT FRONT PANEL

R1: s1, (k1, p1) 7sts, *k2tog, yo; *rep. until you have 1sts left, k1
R2: p all sts until you have 8sts left, (p1, k1) 8sts
R3: s1, (k1, p1) 7sts, *yo, k2tog; *rep. until you have 1sts left, k1
R4: rep R2

Rep. R1 – R4 until you have: 28 (30, 30, 34) (34, 36, 38, 40, 42) rows.

Put all the sts on hold;

BACK PANEL

R1: k1, *yo, k2tog; *rep. until you have 1sts left, k1
R2: p all sts
R3: k1, *k2tog, yo; *rep. until you have 1sts left, k1
R4: rep. R2
Rep. R1 – R4 until you have: 28 (30, 30, 34) (34, 36, 38, 40, 42) rows.

put all the sts of the back panel on hold.

LEFT FRONT PANEL

R1:k1,*k2tog, yo; *rep. until you have 8sts left, (p1, k1) 8sts;
R2: s1, (k1, p1) 7sts, p all sts
R3: k1,* yo, k2tog; *rep. until you have 8sts left, (p1, k1) 8sts;
R4:rep. R2

Rep. R1 – R4 until you have: 28 (30, 30, 34) (34, 36, 38, 40, 42) rows.

keep the sts on the needles and cut the yarn;

ASSEMBLING SHOULDERS

Use any method you want to join the back panel with the front panels;
below you will find the steps I followed:

Joining the left front panel

  • lay your work on the right side;
  • the Left Front Panel you just finished should be on your left with the sts on the right needle
  • take the left needle and pick up the sts for the back panel from right to left; the point of the needle should be at the armhole next to the other needle;
  • overlap the front panel over the back panels, with the needles pointing to the right;
  • use an 8mm crochet hook;
    Step 1: slip the first st from the front needle on the crochet hook;
    Step 2: slip the first st from the back needle on the crochet hook and pass it through the st on the hook;
    Step 3: slip the first st from the front needle on the crochet hook and pass it through the st on the hook;
    Rep. Step 2 and 3 until you have only the sts for the ribbing left on the front panel needle (the one in front)

Next, continue working the ribbing for half of the neckline as follow:

Step 1: Pass the 8 sts you have on the left needle, on the right needle (the needle with the back panel sts; turn
Step 2: s1, follow the ribbing pattern until you have 5sts on the right needle; work the next st together with the next st of the back panel neckline; slip the next st of the back panel neckline on the right needle and turn.
Step 3: work the first 2sts together, then work the ribbing stitch pattern until the end of the row;
Rep. Steps 2 and 3 for 4 more rows;

Joining the right front panel

Half of the cardigan is now folded, and you have half of the back panel and the right front panel facing the wrong side.

  • take the free needle and pick up the front panel sts from right to left; the needlepoint should be next to the armhole
  • use the same method as on the other shoulder to join the back and front panel, except for the ribbing sts;
    then work the neckline ribbing in the same way as for the opposite side until you complete all the sts of the back panel
  • join the ribbing using the same method as for the shoulder or any other method you will wish.

SLEEVES

Work the sleeves in the round using a smaller cord needle (20 cm), DPN needles, or the loop method.
You can also work the sleeves flat, but it will be difficult for the first few rows.

The color pattern for the sleeve is the same as for the body of the cardigan:
16 rows with color A
2 rows with color B
2 rows with color A

Pick the sts for the sleeve around the armhole edge as follows:
Pick 2 sts, through the first 2 side rows, and skip 1 row. In the end, you should have an even number of sts.
The pattern below is written for working in the round

R1: *k2tog, yo; *rep. until the end of the row
R2: k all sts
R3: *yo, k2tog; *rep. until the end of the round
R4: Rep. R2

Rep. R1 – R4 until you have in total:

42 (40, 40, 40) (40, 40, 40, 40, 42) rows.

Last row before cuffs:
*k2tog, k1. *rep. until the end of the row.

CUFFS

R1: *k1, p1; *rep. until the end of the row.
R2 – R8: rep R1

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

That was it! 

You can find the video tutorial at the link below (click the image):

You can purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

 I started working on the Briolette Vest last year, but unfortunately, I didn’t have time to finish it.

When I picked it up again this year, I didn’t remember what I wanted to make. But you helped me out. When I posted about it, many of you asked for a Summer Cardigan/Vest. It was difficult because I imagined a Vest more oversized with this stitch pattern or with sleeves. But, because the yarn was insufficient, I just ended up with this version.

What I can say is that I am happy with the result, so no regrets here. Plus, I can make the more oversized cardi next year!

 You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

Before jumping into the process of making this Vest, I want to tell you a bit about the name I chose. Briolette is a type of chain. (I didn’t know that there are so many types of chains before starting to do my research for finding a name) So, because the stitch pattern has so many chains, I said it would be a cute name. Don’t you think?

And with this being said, now I can start to talk about the pattern and how you can make this vest. 

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size 2, Sport weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 4.5 mm crochet hook
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Briolette Vest has a beautiful lace pattern, easy to make, only by working chain and single crochet stitches.

It has an easy construction, 3 straight panels, back and front panels assembler. The front panels are worked, continuing the back panel to avoid a shoulder seam.

The Briolette Vest is easy to customize to any length, and you can also add sleeves.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Briolette Vest Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with an 86 cm Bust circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL);the US sizes 0/2 (4/6, 8/10, 12/14) (14/16W, 18/20W, 22/24W, 26/28W, 30/32W)
All the measurements use as reference Standard Body Measurements by ASTM International.

Final Measuremnts of the Briolette Vest
Back Panel width a: 51 cm (54, 56.5, 60) (63.5, 68.5, 73.5, 78.5, 83.5)
Length b: 86 cm (86, 86, 91), (91, 91, 91, 96, 96)
Front Panel Width c: 19 cm (21, 22, 23), (25, 27, 30, 33, 35)
Neckline width d: 13 cm (13, 13, 14), (14, 14, 14, 13, 13)
Armhole Depth e: 21 cm (21, 21, 26), (26, 26, 26, 31, 31)

How much yarn do you need?
For the Briolette Vest, I used:
Fair Cotton Crafts 175, in color 802; Yarn composition: 100% Organic Cotton; Each Cake has 175 grams and is approximately 542 meters.The Brand lists the Yarnnd as a Fingering weight cotton, but in my opinion, this yarn is more like a sport weight yarn, so a bit thicker.
You can use fingering weight or even DK weight yarn if you reach the same gauge.
The same brand also has the same yarn in a solid color that you can add to this project to supplement the cake and not buy an entire cake for just a little yarn.

For each size, you will need:

880 (950, 990, 1110), (1190, 1280, 1390, 1590,1680) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rows
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Usina g 4.5.mm crochet hook in the main stitch pattern

15sts (sc) = 10 cm
4 rows (1 pattern repeat) = 5 cm

 You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The stitch pattern requires a multiple of 2+1 sts.
It has 4 rows repeat: 3 rows in sc stitches and 1 row in sc and long chains.
The chain can be shorter, with fewer chain stitches, or longer; adjusting the chain length will affect the pattern gauge. Also, you can adjust the chain length to reach the pattern gauge.

R2 – R3: 1sc in each st to the end of the row. 1ch and turn
R4: 1sc in the first st, *ch16, 1sc in next 2sts; *rep. until the end of the row. ch9 and turn.
R5: 2sc in each 16ch loop to the end of the row.

Rep. R2 – R5 until the desired length

PATTERN NOTES

  • work front and back panel flat; turn after each row.
  • ch1 at the end of each sc row and turn; ch1 does not count as  first sc;
  • at the end of the ch row, you will ch9; the last ch will count as first sc; don’t forget to work a sc in it on the turning row.
  • work the front panels continuing the back panel.
  • the pattern is written in US terms.
  • for the particular yarn I used for the sample, I used approximately one cake for the back. Then I started a new cake for the front. Because both fronts are narrower than the back panel, I worked the armhole section and then started to work with the next color in the cake to match the back panel. For the rest of the front panels, I continued working with the yarn as it is; You can match the colors with the back panel if you like. I worked on the front panels, alternating one pattern repeat on each side.

 You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

INSTRUCTIONS

BACK PANEL

Start: ch 78 (82, 86, 92) (96, 104, 112, 118, 126)
R1:starting with the second st, 1sc in each st to the end of the row, 1ch and turn
R2: 1sc in each st to the end of the row, 1ch and turn
R3: rep. R2
R4: 1sc in the first st, *ch16, 1sc in next 2sts; *rep. until the end of the row. ch9 and turn.
R5: 2sc in each 16ch loop to the end of the row.
Rep. R2 – R5 until you have in total: 71 (71, 71, 75) (75, 75, 75, 79, 79) rows or 17 (17, 17, 18) (18, 18, 18, 19, 19) pattern repeat, +3 more rows in sc.

FRONT PANELS

For this particular yarn or any other variegated yarn is better to alternate one pattern repeat on each front panel.

Use stitch markers to mark the front panels sts: 29 (31, 33, 35) (37, 41, 45, 49, 53)

Start from where your yarn is:
R1: 1sc in each st, 1ch, and turn
R2-R3; rep. R1
R4: 1sc in the first st, *ch16, 1sc in next 2sts; *rep. until the end of the row. ch9 and turn.
R5: 2sc in each 16ch loop to the end of the row.

Rep. R2-R5 until you have the same number of rows as the back panel.

ASSEMBLING FRONT AND BACK PANELS

Use a Darn Needle with 1.5 – 2 meters of yarn; you can use a thinner yarn than one used in the pattern for seaming.

Place stitch markers to mark the armholes: 4 (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) pattern repeats.

SEAMING

Place the Back and Front panels next to each other, facing the right side.
You can use stitch markers or safety pins to pin the edges.

Step 1: Insert the needle into the bottom st, right side, from back to front. then into the bottom st of the left side, from front to back. Tie the end with the working yarn.

Step 2: Insert the needle into the last st (the one you insert the needle in Step1), of the right side, and pull it through the next st; then insert the needle into the last st of the left side, and pull it through the next st.

Rep. Keep weaving the needle like this until you get to the armpit; On the chain side rows, skip 1ch.

EDGING

Front Panels and neckline Edging
When working across the side edge, work 1sc in each sc side row; on the chain edge, work 1sc, skip 1ch, 1sc in next.
Work into the right front panel edge, then around the neckline, and continue with the left panel edge.

Facing the right side, rejoin yarn into the bottom st of the right front panel and ch1
R1: 1sc in each st to the end of the row (the last st will be the bottom st of the left front panel:
R2 – R3: 1sc in each st.

Sleeve Edging
Rejoin yarn at the armpit.

R1: Follow the instruction above when working into the side rows. ss into the first sc.
R2 – R3: 1sc in each st around. Close the round with an ss into the first sc

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

And done! This was an easy one, right?

 You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

 

It’s been a long time since I wanted to make again this Summer Top I designed back in 2018. I am so glad I finally did it and that this design now has a brand new pattern with a lot more information than in the beginning.

Thinking back in time, it’s funny how I found it easy to make almost everything I had in mind without thinking about skill level and how I would write the pattern. I was jumping in! And I am glad I did. Even if my patterns weren’t that good, jumping in gave me the opportunity to learn and the desire to be better with what I am doing.

I am becoming a bit nostalgic, thinking about how everything started and how I got here! The truth is that I enjoyed so much to remake things I designed in the past. And I will not stop here!

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

But let’s jump into this pattern and see what we need and how to make this Top.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size 1, Super Fine, Fingering Weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 4.00 mm crochet hook

• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors
• stitch markers
• 10 0.5 diameter buttons

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Fern Top has a halter shape. The top construction is out of two panels which, in the end, are assembled. Both panels have the same shape, only that the front panel has a button line as detail. On the Top, the panels are connected with the neckline. The button line and neckline are worked in one piece at the end.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Fern Top Pattern is available in 6 sizes, from XS to 2X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with an 86 cm Bust circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M), (L, XL, 2XL); the US sizes 0/2 (4/6, 8/10), (12/14W, 14/16W, 18/20W)
All the measurements use as reference Standard Body Measurements by ASTM International.

Final Measurements of the Fern Top

*Neckline width a: 21cm (21, 21), (25, 25, 25)
**Bust width b: 43cm (46, 51), (51, 55.5, 60.5)
Armhole depth c: 18cm (19, 19.5), (21, 22, 22.5)
Length d: 51cm (52, 53), (54, 55, 56)
* if you need a bigger neckline, chain more sts when connecting front and back panels
** because of the stitch pattern, size L has a closer fit. If you want a larger fit, you can make a size XL

How much yarn do you need?
For the Fern Top, I used:
Scheepjes Organicon; Yarn composition: 100% organic cotton. Each ball has 50 grams and is approximately 170 meters.

For each size, you will need:

3 (3, 4), (4, 4, 5) balls or 470 (510, 580), (590 660, 730) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
shell – (1dc, 1ch, 1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in the same st
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rows
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using a 4.00 mm crochet hook in the main stitch pattern

19sts = 10 cm
1patt repeat = 4 cm
10 rows = 10cm

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The stitch pattern is an opened shell stitch, a combination of dc, sc, and chain sts.
The main stitch pattern requires a multiple of 8 plus 1

Open Shell Stitch
R1: 4ch, 1dc in the same st, 2ch, skip 3sts, 1sc in next st, 2ch, skip 3sts, *1shell in next, 2ch, skip 3sts, 1sc in next, 2ch, skip 3sts. *repeat until the end of the row (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the last st; 1ch and turn.
R2: 1sc in the first st, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the shell. *rep until the end of the row. 4ch and turn
R3: 1dc in the first st, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the shell, 2ch, *1shell into the next sc, 2ch, sc into the second dc of the shell, 2ch. *rep. until the end of the row; finish the row with (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the last st. 1ch and turn.
Rep. R2 and R3 to the desired length.

Twisted sc

Insert the hook into the next st, yarn over, pull out a loop, twist the hook 180 degrees clockwise, yarn over, and pass it through both twisted loops

PATTERN NOTES

  • work both panels flat; turn after each row.
  • when chaining 4 at the beginning of the row, ch3 counts as the first dc
  • 1ch at the beginning of a row does not count as first sc;
  • the pattern is written in US terms. You can make the button line shorter; work more rows before splitting into the right front panel and left front panel.
  • is not mandatory to use the same number of buttons; to place the buttons evenly, divide the total number of sts you have along with the buttons line by the number of buttons you want to use to see how many sts to let in between.

 

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

INSTRUCTIONS

BACK PANEL

Start: ch 82 (90,98), (98, 106, 114) and turn
Foundation row: 1sc, in each of the following sts; 4ch and turn
R1: 1dc in the first st, 2ch, skip 3sts, 1sc in next st, 2ch, skip 3sts, *1shell in next, 2ch, skip 3sts, 1sc in next, 2ch, skip 3sts. *repeat until the end of the row, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the last st; 1ch and turn.
R2: 1sc in the first st, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the shell. *rep until the end of the row. 4ch and turn
R3: 1dc in the first st, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the shell, 2ch, *1shell into the next sc, 2ch, sc into the second dc of the shell, 2ch. *rep. until the end of the row; finish the row with (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the last st. 1ch and turn.

Rep. R2 and R3 until you have *36 rows (not counting the foundation row)

*if you want the Top to be longer or shorter, adjust the number of rows in this section.

After finishing the last row, turn without turning ch.

R37 (decrease row): 11ss (to start the row from the second sc), 3ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell. *rep. to the second to last shell. Finish the row with a dc into the next sc. 4ch and turn.
R38: 1dc into the first sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch, *1shell into the next sc, 2ch, sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch. *rep to the last shell st. Finish the row with 1dc into the next sc, 1ch, and 1dc into the third ch. 1ch and turn.

R39: 1sc into the first st, 2ch, 1shell into the next sc, *2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch, 1shell into the next sc. *rep. to the last sc; finish the row with 2ch and 1sc into the third ch.

Rep. R37, R38, R39 until you have 48 (51, 52), (51, 54, 55) rows.

Sizes XS and L only

Next row: rep. R3
Next Row: rep. R2

For all sizes:
Second to last row: 6ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 3ch, *1dc into the next sc, 3ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 3ch. *rep. until the end of the row; finish the row with 1dc in the last sc. 1ch and turn.

Last Row: 1sc in each st across.
Fasten off.

FRONT PANEL

Start: ch 82 (90,98), (98, 106, 114) and turn
Foundation row: 1sc, in each of the following sts; 4ch and turn
R1: 1dc in the first st, 2ch, skip 3sts, 1sc in next st, 2ch, skip 3sts, *1shell in next, 2ch, skip 3sts, 1sc in next, 2ch, skip 3sts. *repeat until the end of the row, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the last st; 1ch and turn.
R2: 1sc in the first st, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the shell. *rep until the end of the row. 4ch and turn
R3: 1dc in the first st, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the shell, 2ch, *1shell into the next sc, 2ch, sc into the second dc of the shell, 2ch. *rep. until the end of the row; finish the row with (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the last st. 1ch and turn.
Rep. R2 and R3 until you have 19 (19, 21), (21, 23, 23)

At this point, we will start to split the front panel into Right Front Panel and Left Front panel.

The last row ended up with (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the last st.

Use st markers to mark the Right and Left Front Panel sts:
We will count pattern repeats, from the second dc of a shell to the second dc of a shell; count the same for the right and left front panels, starting from the edge
XS: 4.5 pattern repeats; place the stitch marker into the next sc after the 4th shell
S: 5 pattern repeats; place the stitch marker into the second dc of the 5th shell st.
M: 5.5 pattern repeats; place the stitch marker into the next sc after the 5th shell
L: 5.5 pattern repeats; place the stitch marker into the next sc after the 5th shell
XL: 6 pattern repeats; place the stitch marker into the second dc of the 6th shell st.
XXL: 6.5 pattern repeats; place the stitch marker into the next sc after the 6th shell

RIGHT FRONT PANEL
Sizes XS, M, L, XXL

At the end of the last row, 1ch, and turn

R20 (-, 22), (22, -, 24): 1sc in the first st, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the shell. *rep until the end of the row; finish the row with 2ch and (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the last st.
R21 (-, 23), (23, -, 25) to *R36: Rep. previous row.
*not counting the foundation row.

Sizes S, XL

At the end of the last row, ch4 and turn
R: – (20, -), (-, 24, -): rep. R2
R: – (21, -), (-, 25, -): Rep. R1

Rep. the previous 2 rows until you have 36 rows (not counting the foundation row)

After 36 rows, we got to the armpit, and we will start decreasing for the armhole.

Decrease for Armhole
Sizes XS, M, L, XXL

11ss (to start the row from the second sc),
R37 (decrease row): 3ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell. *rep. until the end of the row. 4ch and turn.

R38: 1dc into the first sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch, *1shell into the next sc, 2ch, sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch. *rep to the last shell st. Finish the row with 1dc into the next sc, 1ch, and 1dc into the third ch. 1ch and turn.

R39: 1sc into the first st, 2ch, 1shell into the next sc, *2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch, 1shell into the next sc. *rep. to the last sc; finish the row with 2ch and 1sc into the third ch. 4ch and turn

R40: 1dc into the first sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch, *1shell into the next sc, 2ch, sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch. *rep to the last shell st. Finish the row with 1dc into the last sc. 4ch and turn

R41:1dc into the first sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, *2ch, *1shell into the next sc, 2ch, sc into the second dc of the next shell. *rep. until the end of the row. 4ch and turn

R42: Rep. R41

Follow this 6rows repeats (R37 – R42) until you have in total 48 (-, 52), (51, -, 55) rows.

Sizes XS only

Next row: Rep. R41
Next row: Rep. R41

Size L only

Next row: 1dc in the first st, 2ch, skip 3sts, 1sc in next st, 2ch, skip 3sts, *1shell in next, 2ch, skip 3sts, 1sc in next, 2ch, skip 3sts. *repeat until the end of the row, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the last st; 1ch and turn.
Next row: 1sc in the first st, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the shell. *rep until the end of the row. 4ch and turn

Sizes XS, M only

Second to last row: 6ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 3ch, 1dc into the next sc, 3ch, 1sc into the last st, 1ch and turn

Sizes L, XXL only

Second to last row: 6ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 3ch, *1dc into the next sc, 3ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 3ch. *rep. until the end of the row; finish the row with 1dc in the last sc. 1ch and turn.

Sizes XS, M, L, XXL

Last Row: 1sc in each st across.
Fasten off.

Decrease for Armhole
Sizes S, XL

11ss (to start the row from the second sc)
R37: 3ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell. *rep. until the last shell; finish the row with 2ch, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the last st. 1ch and turn

R38: 1sc into the first st, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell. *rep. to the last shell, 2ch, (1dc, 1c, 1dc) into the last sc.

R39: rep. R38
R40: 1sc into the first st, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell. *rep. to the last shell, 1dc into the last sc. 4ch and turn
R41: 1dc into the first sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch, *1shell into the next sc, 2ch, sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch. *rep to the last shell st. Finish the row with (1dc,1ch, 1dc) into the last sc. 1ch and turn
R42: sc into the first st, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell. *rep. until the end of the row.

Follow the 6 rows repeat (R37 -R42) until you have in total: – (51, -), (-, 54, -) rows.

Size S only
Second to last row: 1sc into the first st, 3ch, 1dc into the next sc, 3ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 3ch, 1dc into the last st.

Size XL only
Second to last row:
6ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 3ch, *1dc into the next sc, 3ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 3ch. *rep. until the end of the row; finish the row with 1dc in the last sc. 1ch and turn.

Sizes S, XL

Last Row: sc in each st across.
Fasten off.

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

LEFT FRONT PANEL
Sizes XS, M, L, XXL

Rejoin yarn into the marked st and ch4
R20 (-, 22), (22, -, 24): 1dc into the first st, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, * 2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the shell. *rep until the end of the row.

R21 (-, 23), (23, -, 25) to *R36: Rep. previous row.
*not counting the foundation row.

Sizes S, XL

Rejoin yarn into the marked st and ch1
R: – (20, -), (-, 24, -): rep. R2
R: – (21, -), (-, 25, -): Rep. R1

Rep. the previous 2 rows until you have 36 rows (not counting the foundation row)

Decrease for Armhole
Sizes XS, M, L, XXL

R37:1sc into the first st, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell. *rep. to the last shell, 1dc into the last sc. 4ch and turn
R38: 1dc into the first sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch, *1shell into the next sc, 2ch, sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch. *rep to the last shell st. Finish the row with (1dc,1ch, 1dc) into the last sc. 1ch and turn
R39: sc into the first st, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell. *rep. until the end of the row.

R40: 3ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell. *rep. until the last shell; finish the row with 2ch, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the last st. 1ch and turn
R41: 1sc into the first st, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell. *rep. to the last shell, 2ch, (1dc, 1c, 1dc) into the last sc.
R42: Rep. R41

Follow this 6rows repeats (R37 – R42) until you have in total 48 (-, 52), (51, -, 55) rows.

Sizes XS only

Next row: Rep. R41
Next row: Rep. R41

Size L only
Next row: 1dc in the first st, 2ch, skip 3sts, 1sc in next st, 2ch, skip 3sts, *1shell in next, 2ch, skip 3sts, 1sc in next, 2ch, skip 3sts. *repeat until the end of the row, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the last st; 1ch and turn.
Next row: 1sc in the first st, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the shell. *rep until the end of the row. 4ch and turn

Sizes XS, M only
Second to last row: 1sc into the first st, 3ch, 1dc into the next sc, 3ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 3ch, 1dc into the last st.

Sizes L, XXL only
Second to last row: 6ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 3ch, *1dc into the next sc, 3ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 3ch. *rep. until the end of the row; finish the row with 1dc in the last sc. 1ch and turn.

Sizes XS, M, L, XXL

Last Row: 1sc in each st across.
Fasten off.

Decrease for Armhole
Sizes S, XL

R37:1dc into the first sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch, *1shell into the next sc, 2ch, sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch. *rep to the last shell st. Finish the row with 1dc into the last sc. 4ch and turn
R38: 1dc into the first sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, *2ch, *1shell into the next sc, 2ch, sc into the second dc of the next shell. *rep. until the end of the row. 4ch and turn
R39: Rep. R39
R40: 3ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, *2ch, 1shell into the next sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell. *rep. until the end of the row. 4ch and turn.
R41: 1dc into the first sc, 2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch, *1shell into the next sc, 2ch, sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch. *rep to the last shell st. Finish the row with 1dc into the next sc, 1ch, and 1dc into the third ch. 1ch and turn.
R42: 1sc into the first st, 2ch, 1shell into the next sc, *2ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 2ch, 1shell into the next sc. *rep. to the last sc; finish the row with 2ch and 1sc into the third ch. 4ch and turn

Follow the 6 rows repeat (R37 -R42) until you have in total: – (51, -), (-, 54, -) rows.

Size S only
Second to last row: 6ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 3ch, 1dc into the next sc, 3ch, 1sc into the last st, 1ch and turn
Size XL only
Second to last row:
6ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 3ch, *1dc into the next sc, 3ch, 1sc into the second dc of the next shell, 3ch. *rep. until the end of the row; finish the row with 1dc in the last sc. 1ch and turn.

Sizes S, XL

Last Row: sc in each st across.
Fasten off.

ARMHOLE EDGING

  • work 3sc into the dc or 3ch side rows and 1sc into the sc side row.
  • rejoin yarn into the first st of the armhole, facing the panel on the right side, and ch1

R1: 1sc in each st accross, 1ch and turn
R2: rep. R1
R3: 1sc into the first st, 1twisted sc into each st except the last one, 1sc into the last st.
Fasten off
Rep. on each of the 4 armholes.

BUTTON LINE AND NECKLINE

The Button Line and Neckline are worked in one single piece using sc stitches.
When working into the side rows, work 2sc into the dc or ch3 side row and 1sc into the sc side row.
The sketch below shows the crochet direction.

Rejoin yarn as indicated (into the first bottom st of the left panel (represented as the right panel in the sketch) and ch1
R1: 1sc in each st until the last top st of the left panel, 3sc into the top st, 1sc in each st of the left panel width, ch10, 1sc into each st of the back panel width, ch10, 1sc in each st of the right front panel width, 3sc into the top st of the right front panel, 1sc until the end of the row. 1ch and turn
R2: 1sc into each st, until the second sc of the inc on the right front panel, 3sc, 1sc in each st until the second st of the inc of the left front panel, 3sc, 1sc to the end of the row. 1ch and turn.
R3: rep: R2
R4: Next row will be the button holes row.
Count the sts you have and divide them by the number of buttons you want to use. Mark the button holes sts and ch1 and skip that st when you get there. For the rest of the row, Rep. R2.
R5, R6: Rep. R2
R7: Rep. R2 but with Twisted sc sts. First, increase, and last st are regular sc.

ASSEMBLING

Use a darn needle and insert a piece of 1m-1.5m yarn.

Place both panels on top of the other, facing the right size, and stitch the sides.

TO FINISH

Stitch the button line base

Weave in all ends and block to measurements.

That was it! I hope you will give it a try to this, even if it looks complicated because I know you can make it. 

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here: