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I am thrilled to introduce the latest pattern for the Dare To Be Cozy Cardigan!

This cardigan design emerged spontaneously, unplanned but destined to become something special. When the wonderful team at Durable Yarn approached me to test their new Durable Dare yarn, I was genuinely grateful. I casually mentioned that I envisioned crafting an oversized cardigan with their yarn. Upon receiving the yarn, I committed to the idea and began experimenting with various half-double crochet variations—one of my favorite basic stitches.

After several iterations, I arrived at a final stitch pattern variation that captivated me. This variation not only aligns with my vision for the oversized cardigan but also creates a fascinating texture effortlessly. Join me on this creative journey as we explore the unique charm of the Dare To Be Cozy Cardigan, a design born out of spontaneity and enhanced by the delightful qualities of Durable Dare yarn.

Pentru postarea in Limba Romana, click aici

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. 

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size 5 , Bulky weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 8 mm crochet hook
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
Introducing our latest crochet pattern: The Dare To Be Cozy Cardigan!

Crafted with care and comfort in mind, this cardigan is a stylish addition to your wardrobe. Using a size 5 yarn in a textured stitch pattern, the Cozy Cardigan boasts a warm and inviting feel, perfect for those chilly days.

Designed with a drop-shoulder construction and an oversized fit, this cardigan exudes a relaxed and laid-back vibe. The back panel features carefully shaped shoulders, creating a higher neckline and a lower edge next to the sleeves for an enhanced and flattering fit.

What sets this cardigan apart is its unique construction. The front panels seamlessly continue from the back, forming a slightly V-shaped neckline that adds a touch of sophistication. One standout detail is the cleverly concealed pockets. These hidden gems are skillfully integrated into the design by creating pocket holes while working on the front panels and then crafting the inside pocket for added functionality.

With its cozy texture, stylish drop-shoulder silhouette, and thoughtful pocket detailing, the Cozy Cardigan is a must-have piece for those who appreciate both fashion and comfort. Elevate your handmade wardrobe with this versatile and chic crochet pattern.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Dare To Be Cozy Cardigan Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with a 88 cm bust circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL) ( 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL);

Final Measurements of the Dare To Be Cozy Cardigan
Neck Width a: 14 cm (16, 16, 19, 19) (19, 21, 21, 21)
Width b: 56 cm (59, 61.5, 65, 68.5) (73.5, 78.5, 83.5, 88.5)
Armhole depth. c: 19 cm (21, 21, 23, 25) (25, 27, 29, 30)
Sleeve length d: 46 cm (46, 48, 48, 49) (49, 51, 51, 51)
Length e: 63 (63, 65, 65, 68) (69, 69, 69, 71)

YARN

For the Dare To Be Cozy Cardigan, I used: Durable Dare By Durable yarn, in color Mustang (413). Yarn composition:80% Antipiling Acryl, 20% Polyamide; Each ball has 100 grams and is approximately 99 meters.

For each size, you will approximately need:
1010 (1080, 1150, 1220, 1350) (1430, 1550, 1660, 1780) meters
11 (11, 12,13, 14) (15, 16, 17, 18) balls of Durable Dare

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. 

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
scblo – single crochet in back loop only
hdc – half double crochet
hdcblo – half double crochet in the back loop only
hdcflo – half double crochet in the front loops only (the side V in front of the stitch)
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – row
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 8mm crochet hook in the hdc front loop, hdc back loop pattern

8sts = 10 cm
6.5 rows = 10 cm

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The primary stitch pattern used in the Dare To Be Cozy Cardigan is a variation of the half-double crochet stitch, requiring an odd number of stitches. The texture is achieved by alternating between one stitch of half-double crochet into the back loop only and the next stitch of half-double crochet into both front loops. This method creates a subtle yet visually interesting texture.

The second stitch pattern integrated into the Dare To Be Cozy Cardigan is the single crochet in the back loop only. This specific stitch pattern will be utilized for the bottom, cuffs, and collar ribbing, introducing a subtle texture to enhance these areas. The inside of the pockets will showcase the single crochet stitch, contributing to a uniform and dense fabric that enhances the functionality of the pockets.

INSTRUCTIONS

BACK PANEL RIBBING
Start| Ch 7
R1: Starting in the second st, 1sc in each st, 1ch and turn;
R2: 1sc, 1scblo in each st except the last one, 1sc in last st.
Rep. R2 until you have: 45 (47, 51, 53, 57) (61, 63, 67, 71) rows;

BACK PANEL
Upon finishing the ribbing, transition to working along the side rows. Crochet one half-double crochet (hdc) in each side row, considering the initial 2 chain stitches as the first hdc.

R1: 2ch, 1hdc in each st (side row) to the end of the row; 2ch and turn
R2: *1hdcblo in next st, 1hdcflo in next st; *rep. until the last st, 1hdc in the last (second ch)
Rep. R2 until you have in total: 34 (34, 34, 34, 36) (36, 36, 36, 36) rows

*Note: You can adjust the number of rows according to the desired length

SHAPING THE SHOULDERS

*Note: If you prefer a more beginner-friendly approach, you have the option to skip this section of short rows.

Shaping the shoulders, is for creating a higher neckline and a lower edge next to the sleeves for a better fit.

Before beginning the short rows, consider marking the stitches for the neckline. While the short rows will involve the neckline stitches, marking them allows for flexibility in adjusting the number of rows or the number of stitches to decrease in each short row.

Having the remaining stitches for the shoulders is essential for calculating the number of short rows and the corresponding decreases. For instance, in the case of size Small, 17 stitches are allotted for each shoulder. As 17 is not easily divisible, we will use 16 as a reference, which divides evenly by 2, 4, and 8. These numbers represents potential options for the number of stitches to decrease on each short row:
2 stitches will result in 7 short rows (8-1, as the 2 remaining stitches stay unchanged).
4 stitches will lead to 3 short rows.
8 stitches will lead to 1 short row.

I opted for a decrease of 4 stitches, resulting in 3 short rows. Given the initial count of 17 stitches, I made a decrease of 5 stitches on the first row.

XS – 17sts for the shoulders. 11sts for the neckline
S – 17sts for the shoulders, 13sts for the neckline
M – 19sts for the shoulders, 13sts for the neckline
L – 19sts for the shoulders, 15sts for the neckline
XL – 21sts for the shoulders, 15sts for the neckline
2XL – 23sts for the shoulders, 15sts for the neckline
3XL – 23sts for the shoulders, 17sts for the neckline
4XL – 25sts for the shoulders, 17sts for the neckline
5XL – 27sts for the shoulder, 17sts for the neckline

Use stitch markers to mark these sts and remove and place the stitch marker back everytime you need to work in that st.

1st Short Row: start from where your yarn is;
ss 6 (6, 4, 4, 6,) ( 4, 4, 6, 4) sts (this means you wil start your row into the 6 (6, 4, 4, 6,) ( 4, 4, 6, 4) and you will skip 5 (5, 3, 3, 5,) ( 3, 3, 5, 3) sts at the beginning of the row; 2ch, *1hdcblo in next st, 1hdcflo in next st; *rep. until you have 5 (5, 3, 3, 5,) ( 3, 3, 5, 3) left; 2ch and turn
Total sts left: 35 (37, 45, 47, 47) (55, 57, 57, 65)

2nd Short Row (for all sizes): ss 5 sts, 2ch, 1hdcblo in next st, 1hdcflo in next st; *rep. until you have 4sts left, 2ch and turn
Total sts left: 27 (29, 37, 39,39) (47, 49, 49, 57)

Rep. 2nd Short Row until you have 19 (21, 21, 23,23) (23, 25, 25, 25) sts left.
This means you will work: 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 5, 6) short rows.
If you marked at the beginning the neckline sts, you need to have 4 sts more on each side.
Cut the yarn

RIGHT FRONT PANEL

We’ll straighten the edge of the shoulder by working single crochet stitches over the short rows. It’s important to note that this single crochet row should be on the right side of your work.

Reattach the yarn to the first stitch on the outer edge of the shoulder. To pass the bridge between the short rows, work 2 single crochets together – 1 into the last stitch before the bridge and 1 into the side of the first stitch of the next short row.
For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video tutorial available here.

1ch, 1sc into the next 4 (4, 2, 2, 4,) ( 2, 2, 4, 2) sts, sc2tog (as explained above), *1sc into the next 3sts, sc2tog; *rep this section until you 4sts left before the first marked stitch of the neckline, 1sc into the last 4 sts. 2ch and turn
Total sc: 17 (17, 19, 19, 21) (23, 23, 25, 27) sts

Let’s begin working on the front panel. To provide clearer instructions, we will start counting from R1

R1: 1fphdc in each st to the end of the row; 2ch and turn
R2: *1hdcblo in next st, 1hdcflo in next st; *rep. until the last st, 1hdc in the last (second ch), 2ch and turn
R3: Rep. R2
R4: *1hdcblo in next st, 1hdcflo in next st; *rep. until the last st, 2hdc into the last st (making an increase)
R5: Rep. R2
Rep. R4 and R5 5 (5, 5, 7, 7,) (7, 7, 7, 7) times.

You will have in total 6 (6, 6, 8, 8,) (8, 8, 8, 8) increase rows and 6 (6, 6, 8, 8,) (8, 8, 8, 8) more stitches than initial

After completing the increased rows, the total number of rows worked for the front panel is 15 (15, 15, 19, 19) (19, 19, 19, 19). To ensure the continuity of the stitch pattern, it’s important to maintain a stitch count that is a multiple of 2+1.
You will now have 23 (23, 25, 27, 29) (31, 31, 33, 35) sts for the front panel.

Next, continue to work into the established pattern until the pocket hole. More exactly, until you have for the front panel 25 (25, 27, 27, 29) (29,29,29,31) rows.

Next Row: POCKET HOLE

The Pocket hole needs to be proportional to the front panel width.

Work in the establish pattern first, 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, ch 14 (14, 15, 16, 18) (19, 19, 20, 21) sts, skip 14 (14, 15, 16, 18) (19, 19, 20, 21) sts, continue with the established pattern for the last 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) (6, 6, 7, 7) sts, 2ch and turn

Next Row: work into the established pattern for the first 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) (6, 6, 7, 7) sts, then 1hdc in each ch st, and finish the row with the established pattern for the last 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) (6, 6, 6, 7) sts

Next, continue to work into the established pattern until you complete the front panel, 10 (10, 9, 9, 9) (10, 10, 10, 9) more rows.

After completing the front panel length, you will have in total: 37 (37, 38, 38, 40) (41, 41, 41, 42) rows

To finish off the front panel, work the bottom ribbing

Ch7
R1: Start into the second st, 1sc in all 6sts, 1ss into the next 2sts of the front panel bottom edge, turn
R2: skip the 2ss, 1scblo in next 5st, 1sc in last st
R3: 1sc in first st, 1scblo in next 5sts, 1ss in next 2sts of the front panel edge.
Rep. R2 and R3 until you complete the front panel width.
Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT PANEL

Create the Left Front Panel as a mirror image of the Right Front Panel.

Start by straightening the shoulder edge with single crochet stitches over the short rows. Ensure this single crochet row is on the right side of your work.

Reattach the yarn to the first stitch of the shoulder immediately following the marked neckline stitch. To pass the bridge between the short rows, work 2 single crochets together – 1 into the side of the last stitch of the current short row and 1 into the first stitch of the next short row.
For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video tutorial available here.

1ch, 1sc into the next 4 (4, 4, 4, 4,) ( 4,4, 4, 4) sts, sc2tog (as explained above), *1sc into the next 3sts, sc2tog; *rep this section until you have 4 (4, 2, 2, 4,) ( 2, 2, 4, 2) sts to the end of the row, 1sc into the last sts, 2ch and turn
Total sc: 17 (17, 19, 19, 21) (23, 23, 25, 27) sts
Let’s begin working on the front panel. To provide clearer instructions, we will start counting from R1

R1: 1fphdc in each st to the end of the row; 2ch and turn
R2: *1hdcblo in next st, 1hdcflo in next st; *rep. until the last st, 1hdc in the last (second ch), 2ch and turn
R3: Rep. R2

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. 

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

R4: 1hdc into the first st (same as 2ch, making an increase), *1hdcblo in next st, 1hdcflo in next st; *rep. until the last st, 1hdc in the last (second ch), 2ch and turn
R5: Rep. R2
Rep. R4 and R5 5 (5, 5, 7, 7,) (7, 7, 7, 7) times.

You will have in total 6 (6, 6, 8, 8,) (8, 8, 8, 8) increase rows and 6 (6, 6, 8, 8,) (8, 8, 8, 8) more stitches than initial

After completing the increase rows, the total number of rows worked for the front panel is 15 (15, 15, 19, 19) (19, 19, 19, 19). To ensure the continuity of the stitch pattern, it’s important to maintain a stitch count that is a multiple of 2+1.
You will now have: 23 (23, 25, 27, 29) (31, 31, 33, 35) sts for the front panel.

Next, continue to work into the established pattern until the pocket hole. More exactly, until you have the front panel 25 (25, 27, 27, 29) (29,29,29,31) rows.

Next Row: POCKET HOLE

The Pocket hole needs to be proportional to the front panel width.

Work in the establish pattern first, 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) (6, 6, 7, 7) sts, ch 14 (14, 15, 16, 18) (19, 19, 20, 21) sts, skip 14 (14, 15, 16, 18) (19, 19, 20, 21) sts, continue with the established pattern for the last, 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) (6, 6, 6, 7) sts 2ch and turn

Next Row: work into the established pattern for the first 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, then 1hdc in each ch st, and finish the row with the established pattern for the last 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) (6, 6, 7, 7) sts.

Next, continue to work into the established pattern until you complete the front panel, 10 (10, 9, 9, 9) (10, 10, 10, 9) more rows.

After completing the front panel length, you will have in total: 37 (37, 38, 38, 40) (41, 41, 41, 42) rows

To finish off the front panel, work the bottom ribbing

Ch7
R1: Start into the second st, 1sc in all 6sts, 1ss into the next 2sts of the front panel bottom edge, turn

R2: skip the 2ss, 1scblo in next 5st, 1sc in last st
R3: 1sc in first st, 1scblo in next 5sts, 1ss in next 2sts of the front panel edge.
Rep. R2 and R3 until you complete the front panle width.
Fasten off.

SLEEVES

Apply the same pattern to both sleeves.

Begin by marking the side rows to define the sleeve width on both the back and front panels:
11 (12, 12, 13, 14) (14, 15, 16, 17) rows on each side.

With the armhole now marked, let’s begin working the sleeves directly into the armhole side rows.

The number of stitches required for working into the armholes depends on your tension and the height of the edge stitches. As a guideline, for the initial row, I worked 3 half-double crochets in every 2 side rows. Feel free to modify the stitch count based on your tension, but maintain a multiple of 2+1 stitches.

R1: Reattach yarn into the marked stitch, 2ch, 1hdc in each st (as mentioned above) to the end of the row; 2ch and turn
Total sts: 33 (37, 37, 39, 43) (43, 45, 49, 51) sts
R2: *1hdcblo in next st, 1hdcflo in next st; *rep. until the last st, 1hdc in the last (second ch), 2ch and turn
Rep. R2 until you reach the desired sleeve length or until you have: 26 (26, 27, 27, 30) (30, 32, 32, 32) rows.
Last sleeve row: *1sc in the first st, sc2tog; rep to the end of the row.

To finish off the sleeve, work the bottom ribbing

Ch7
R1: Start into the second st, 1sc in all 6sts, 1ss into the next 2sts of the edge, turn
R2: skip the 2ss, 1scblo in next 5st, 1sc in last st
R3: 1sc in first st, 1scblo in next 5sts, 1ss in next 2sts of the edge.
Rep. R2 and R3 until you complete the sleeve width.
Fasten off.

ASSEMBLING

Before proceeding with the collar ribbing and pockets, I find it more convenient to assemble the cardigan first.

Fold the piece at the shoulders, bringing the front panels over the back panels.

Grab a yarn needle and measure the sewing yarn to be three times the length needed.

Next, sew the side edges together; you can commence from the cuff and finish at the bottom of the cardigan or do it in reverse.

For sewing, I prefer the ladder stitch technique but feel free to use any method you feel comfortable with. If you’d like a visual demonstration of this technique, you can refer to the video tutorial available here.

NECKLINE AND FRONT EDGES RIBBING

Work the foundation row of the ribbing in single crochet on the right side of the cardigan.
Rejoin yarn into the first st of the right front panel bottom corner
Ch1 and work 1sc in each st until the bottom corner of the left front panel;

Note:
When crocheting along the edges of the front panel, you’ll be working into the side rows. Here’s what to do:

In one side row, make 2 single crochets (2sc).
In the next side row, make just one single crochet (1 sc).
By following these steps, you’ll have a total of 3 single crochets (3sc) for every 2 side rows. Keep in mind that the result can vary depending on your tension and how tall the stitches are at the edge of the front panel. Feel free to adjust the pattern based on your own tension preferences.
After finishing the sc row;
Start: ch7 and turn

R1: starting with the second st, 1sc in each st to the end, 1ss into the next 2sts of the edge; turn
R2: skip the 2ss, 1scblo into each st, except the last one, 1sc into the last st; 1ch and turn;
R3: 1sc in the first st, 1scblo in each st to the end; 1ss into the next 2sts of the edge; turn;
Rep. R2 and R3 until you complete the entire length;

POCKET

Work both pockets the same

Start by crocheting the inside layer of the pocket.

Reattach the yarn to the first stitch at the top edge of the pocket hole and chain 1.
R1: 1sc in each of the top edge’s stitches, 1ch and turn
R2: 1sc in each st, 1ch ch and turn
Rep. R2 until you complete the depth of the pocket.

The next step is to sew the inside layer of the pocket onto the back of the front panel. To finish the pocket, we need to work on ribbing on the bottom edge of the pocket hole.

Reattach the yarn to the first stitch at the bottom edge of the pocket hole and chain 4
R1: starting with the second st, 1sc in each st to the end, 1ss into the next 2sts of the edge; turn
R2: skip the 2ss, 1scblo into each st, except the last one, 1sc into the last st; 1ch and turn;
R3: 1sc in the first st, 1scblo in each st to the end; 1ss into the next 2sts of the edge; turn;
Rep. R2 and R3 until you complete the entire length;

To finish off, sew the edges of the ribbing.

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements

I hope you love it as much as I do.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. 

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

 

Hello, fellow crochet enthusiasts! I am excited to share something special with you today – the Fusion Sweater. Imagine this: I couldn’t decide whether to make it with stripes or color blocks, so I combined both ideas! This pattern will guide you through the process of creating your own Fusion Sweater, step by step. Even if the construction is new to you, I hope you will find the instructions easy to follow, making your crochet project easier.

I have also created a video tutorial to provide a more comprehensive understanding and visual demonstration. You can find the link at the end of this post.

So, get your hooks and yarn ready, and let’s create something amazing together!

Pentru Postarea in Limba Romana click aici

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size 4, Worsted weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 4.5 mm crochet hook for the bottom and neckline Ribbing
o 4 mm crochet hook for the cuff Ribbing
o 5.5 mm crochet hook for the rest of the sweater
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• at least 4 stitch markers
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Fusion Sweater is a top-down sweater with a unique yoke construction.

The yoke is worked in 2 sections: the first one, increasing only the front and back panel, and the second one, increasing the sleeves. For bigger sizes, Section 2 has 2 Parts: one, increasing only the sleeves, and second, increasing the sleeves and the front and back panels.

After finishing the yoke, the piece is split into sleeves and body. The three parts are worked individually until the desired length.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Fusion Sweater Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with an 86 cm Bust circumference, and wears a size  Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL); US sizes 0/2 (4/6, 8/10, 12/14) (14/16W, 18/20W, 22/24W, 26/28W, 30/32W)
All the measurements use as reference Standard Body Measurements by ASTM International.

 

Final Measurements of the Fusion Sweater
Neckline circ a: 43 cm (46, 49, 49) (49, 51, 54, 54, 54)
Cross Back b: 38cm (39, 40, 41), (41, 41, 43, 44, 46)
Bust Circ. c: 92 cm (95, 102, 108), (118, 128, 138, 148, 155)
Sleeve length d: 59 cm (61, 63, 65), (68, 68, 69, 75, 79)
Sleeve Circ. e: 33cm (34, 38, 39), (43, 44, 49, 53, 56)
Length f:53cm (55, 56, 59) (60, 60, 61, 65, 68)

YARN

For the Fusion Sweater, I used Genna Yarn Tweed Worsted which is composed of 85% Superwash Merino and 15% Dondegal Nep. The colors I used were Silver, Kaki, and Conifere. Each hank of yarn weighs 100 grams and has approximately 166 meters of yarn. 

Here’s an approximate breakdown of the yarn required for each size:

Conifere: 330 (360, 400, 440) (490, 530, 580, 670, 740) meters

Silver: 290 (310, 340, 380) (420, 450, 500, 570, 630) meters

Kaki: 200 (220, 240, 270) (300, 320, 350, 400, 440) meters

You will need the following number of hanks for each color, depending on the size you’re making:

Conifere: 2 (3, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) hanks

Silver: 2 (2, 3, 3) (3, 3,4, 4, 4) hanks

Kaki: 2 (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) hanks

Please note that the yardage requirements may vary depending on the length and color pattern you choose.

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Scblo – single crochet back loop
dc – double crochet
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
R – round
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 4.5.mm crochet hook in the Ribbing Stitch Pattern
14sts (scblo) = 10cm
14 rows = 10cm

Using a 5.5 mm crochet hook in double crochet
12sts = 10cm
7.5 rounds = 10cm

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The Fusion Sweater stitch patterns are double crochet, and single crochet in the back loop only for Ribbing.

Single crochet in the back loop
Insert the hook into the back loop of the next st, yarn over, pull out a loop, yarn over, and pass through both loops on your hook.

Double Crochet
Yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull out a loop, yarn over, pull it through the first 2 loops on your hook, yarn over, and pass it through both loops on your hook.

The way we’re making this sweater is called “saddle sleeve.” It means we’re doing the top part, the yoke, in two steps.

First, in Section 1, we increase stitches to shape the back and front panels. Then, in Section 2, we increase stitches to shape the sleeves. This way, we get a nice and comfy fit for the sweater.

PATTERN NOTES

To begin with, work the first section of the yoke flat, and remember to turn after each row. After completing this section, work the rest of the sweater in the round, ensuring to close each round with a slip stitch into the first double crochet. To avoid any twisting of the work, remember to turn after each round and begin each round with two chains. The two chains do not count as the first double crochet. Optionally, you can start each round with one single crochet on top of the other single crochet. For a better understanding of this starting stitch, you can refer to the video tutorial available here.

Stitch markers can be used to mark the raglan stitches. This will make it easier to identify the stitches where you need to increase and help ease the increasing rows.

COLOR PATTERN:

The instructions below don’t have specific colors mentioned, so you can choose any colors you like for your project.

For a reference, here’s how the colors were used in the sample:

Use Silver Color for the entire yoke, except the last round.
Switch to Conifere for the last round of the yoke.
Divide the body into three sections. In the sample, I did 21 rounds for the length, with each section having 7 rounds.
Start the first 7 rounds with the Kaki color.
In the second section, create stripes by changing the color after each round.
In the third section, use Conifere.
For the sleeves, follow the same pattern. If you need more length, add more rounds in the third section.
Feel free to get creative with your color choices!

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

INSTRUCTIONS

YOKE SECTION 1 – INCREASING FRONT AND BACK PANELS

Use a 5.5 mm crochet hook.

The Yoke section incorporates four additional stitches designated as raglan stitches. All increases will occur both before and after these stitches.

Initiating the Yoke, our primary focus is on shaping the neckline by lowering the front panel, using short rows. The Yoke section starts with a single stitch allocated to the left and right sides of the front panel. Gradual increases will be made in each row, building upon these stitches. In the final row of the Yoke’s initial segment, we add extra stitches to ensure parity between the stitch count on the front and back panels.

The entire first section of the YOKE is worked with these short rows; this means that for bigger sizes the neckline will be lower in front as we work more short rows. If you want to make it higher, you can join the front panels before finishing the first section of the YOKE.

For a more comprehensive understanding, refer to the visual demonstration in the video tutorial linked here,

For the Yoke Section 1 we will work 5 (5, 5, 6) (6, 6, 6, 7, 7) rows

At the end of section 1 we will have:
– 45 (47, 49, 53) (53, 53, 55, 59, 59) sts for – the back and front panels
– 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts for the sleeves
– 4 raglan stitches

Start: ch 41 (43, 45, 45) (45, 49, 51, 51, 51) sts

All these stitches will be divided as follows:
– 25 ( 27, 29, 29) (29, 29, 31, 31, 31) sts for the back panel;
– 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts for the sleeves
– 1st for the right and 1st for the left of the front panel
– 4 stitches for the raglan lines

R1: ch3, 2dc in the 4th ch, 1dc in next st (raglan stitch – place a stitch marker) 1dc in next 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker), 3dc in next st, 1dc in next 23 (25, 27, 27) (27, 27, 29, 29, 29) sts, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker, 1dc in next 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a st marker), 3dc in last st; ch3 and turn

Total sts:
– 29 (31, 33, 33) (33, 33, 35, 35, 35) sts for the back panel
– 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts for the sleeves
– 3sts for each side of the front panel
– 4 raglan stitches

R2: 2dc in the first st, 1dc in next st, 3dc in next st (raglan increase front panel), 1dc in next st (raglan stitch – place a stitch marker) 1dc in next 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker), 3dc in next st, 1dc in next 27 (29, 31, 31) (31, 31, 33, 33, 33) sts, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker, 1dc in next 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a st marker), 3dc in next st (raglan increase front panel), 1dc in next st, 3dc in last st; ch3 and turn
Total sts:
– 33 (35, 37, 37) (37, 37, 39, 39, 39) sts for the back panel
– 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts for the sleeves
– 7sts for each side of the front panel
– 4 raglan stitches

R3: 2dc in the first st, 1dc in next 5sts, 3dc in next st (raglan increase front panel), 1dc in next st (raglan stitch – place a stitch marker) 1dc in next 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker), 3dc in next st, 1dc in next 31 (33, 35, 35) (35, 35, 37, 37, 37) sts, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker, 1dc in next 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a st marker), 3dc in next st (raglan increase front panel), 1dc 1n next 5sts, 3dc in last st; ch3 and turn
Total sts:
– 37 (39, 41, 41) (41, 41, 43, 43, 43) sts for the back panel
– 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts for the sleeves
– 11sts for each side of the front panel
– 4 raglan stitches

R4: 2dc in the first st, 1dc in next 9sts, 3dc in next st (raglan increase front panel), 1dc in next st (raglan stitch – place a stitch marker) 1dc in next 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker), 3dc in next st, 1dc in next 35 (37, 39, 39) (39, 39, 41, 41, 41) sts, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker, 1dc in next 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a st marker), 3dc in next st (raglan increase front panel), 1dc 1n next 9sts, 3dc in last st; ch3 and turn
Total sts:
– 41 (43, 45, 45) (45, 45, 47, 47, 47) sts for the back panel
– 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts for the sleeves
– 15sts for each side of the front panel
– 4 raglan stitches

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

Sizes XS, S and M only

Please note that R5 (Round 5) is the final row of the first section of the YOKE, designed specifically for sizes XS, S, and M. During this round, we need to join the front panels. We will follow the usual procedure for this row, and upon completion of the row, we will work foundation double crochet stitches to finalize the front panel. For a more comprehensive understanding of this process, please refer to the video tutorial linked here, which includes a visual demonstration.

R5: 2dc in the first st, 1dc in next 13sts, 3dc in next st (raglan increase front panel), 1dc in next st (raglan stitch – place a stitch marker) 1dc in next 5 (5, 5) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker), 3dc in next st, 1dc in next 39 (41, 43) sts, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker, 1dc in next 5 (5, 5) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a st marker), 3dc in next st (raglan increase front panel), 1dc in next 13sts, 3dc in last st, 7 (9, 11) foundation double crochet, sl st into the third ch to close the round.

Cut the yarn;

We cut the yarn so that the joining line would not be in the front in the upcoming rounds. Now, we’ll start again by attaching the yarn to the right raglan stitch on the back panel

Total sts:
– 45 (47, 49) sts for the back and front panels
– 5 (5, 5) sts for the sleeves
– 4 raglan stitches

For sizes XS, S, and M, YOKE SECTION 1 is done; move to YOKE SECTION 2

Sizes L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL only

R5: 2dc in the first st, 1dc in next 13sts, 3dc in next st (raglan increase front panel), 1dc in next st (raglan stitch – place a stitch marker) 1dc in next – (-, -, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker), 3dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, -, 43) (43, 43, 45, 45, 45) sts, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker, 1dc in next – (-, -, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a st marker), 3dc in next st (raglan increase front panel), 1dc in next 13sts, 3dc in last st; ch3 and turn

Total sts:
– – (-, -, 49) (49, 49, 51, 51, 51) sts for the back panel
– – (-, -, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts for the sleeves
– 19sts for each side of the front panel
– 4 raglan stitches

Sizes L, XL, 2XL, and 3XL only

Please note that R6 is the final row of the first section of the YOKE, designed specifically for sizes L, XL, 2XL, and 3XL. During this round, we need to join the front panels. We will follow the usual procedure for this row, and upon completion of the row, we will work foundation double crochet stitches to finalize the front panel. For a more comprehensive understanding of this process, please refer to the video tutorial linked here, which includes a visual demonstration.

R6:2dc in the first st, 1dc in next 17sts, 3dc in next st (raglan increase front panel), 1dc in next st (raglan stitch – place a stitch marker) 1dc in next – (-, -, 5) (5, 7, 7)sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker), 3dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, -, 47) (47, 47, 49) sts, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker, 1dc in next- (-, -, 5) (5, 7, 7)sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a st marker), 3dc in next st (raglan increase front panel), 1dc in next 17sts, 3dc in last st, – (-, -, 7) (7, 7, 9)foundation double crochet, sl st into the third ch to close the round.

Cut the yarn;

We cut the yarn so that the joining line not to be in the front in the upcoming rounds. Now, we’ll start again by attaching the yarn to the right raglan stitch on the back panel

Total sts:
– – (-, -, 53) (53, 53, 55)sts for the back and front panels
– – (-, -, 5) (5, 7, 7)sts for the sleeves
– 4 raglan stitches

For sizes L, XL, 2XL, and 3XL, YOKE SECTION 1 is done; move to YOKE SECTION 2

Sizes 4XL, and 5XL only

R6: 2dc in the first st, 1dc in next 17sts, 3dc in next st (raglan increase front panel), 1dc in next st (raglan stitch – place a stitch marker) 1dc in next – (-, -, -) (-, -, -, 7, 7) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker), 3dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, -, -) (-, -, -, 49, 49) sts, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker, 1dc in next – (-, -, -) (-, -, -, 7, 7) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a st marker), 3dc in next st (raglan increase front panel), 1dc in next 17sts, 3dc in last st; ch3 and turn

Total sts:
– – (-, -, -) (-, -, -, 55, 55) sts for the back panel
– – (-, -, -) (-, -, -, 7, 7) sts for the sleeves
– 23sts for each side of the front panel
– 4 raglan stitches

R7: 2dc in the first st, 1dc in next 21sts, 3dc in next st (ragrlan increase front panel), 1dc in next st (raglan stitch – place a stitch marker) 1dc in next – (-, -, -) (-, -, -, 7, 7) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker), 3dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, -, -) (-, -, -, 53, 53) sts, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place a stitch marker, 1dc in next – (-, -, -) (-, -, -, 7, 7) sts, 1dc in next st (raglan st – place an st marker), 3dc in next st (raglan increase front panel), 1dc in next 21sts, 3dc in last st, – (-, -, -) (-, -, -, 5, 5) foundation double crochet, l st into the third ch to close the round.

Cut the yarn;

We cut the yarn so that the joining line not to be in the front in the upcoming rounds. Now, we’ll start again by attaching the yarn to the right raglan stitch on the back panel

Total sts:
– – (-, -, -) (-, -, -, 59, 59) sts for the back and front panels
– – (-, -, -) (-, -, -, 7, 7) sts for the sleeves
– 4 raglan stitches

For sizes 4XL, and 5XL, YOKE SECTION 1 is done; move to YOKE SECTION 2

After finishing the YOKE SECTION 1 you should have:
– 45 (47, 49, 53) (53, 53, 55, 59, 59) sts for – the back and front panels
– 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts for the sleeves
– 4 raglan stitches

YOKE SECTION 2 – INCREASING SLEEVES

For all sizes, cut the yarn after completing YOKE SECTION 1, then reconnect it to the right raglan stitch on the back panel.

The rest of the sweater will be made in the round, but turn after each round.

The first stitch in each round is the right raglan stitch of the back panel, worked as 2 single crochets stacked on top of each other. You can start the round with any stitch you find comfortable; in the pattern below you will find this stitch written as “dc”
During Yoke Section 2, we’ll increase the sleeves by working 2 double crochets in the same stitch.

For larger sizes, starting from XL, in the final rounds, we’ll also increase the body.

In YOKE SECTION 2, work for 9 (10, 11, 12) (13, 13, 14, 16, 18) rows.

Increase both sleeves and body panels for the last – (-, -, -) (2, 5, 5, 6, 8) rounds.
In this section the increases for the body panels, if you need to make them, will be 2dc in the same st.

To enhance clarity in this pattern, let’s begin counting for YOKE SECTION 2 from Round 1 (R1).

Before you start, insert stitch markers into the 4 raglan stitches. Keep these stitch markers in place throughout your work on the raglan.
Additionally, ensure that you’ve turned your work to the corresponding side to prevent any confusion. Depending on the size, the first round of Section 2 may fall on the wrong side for some sizes and on the right side for others.

R1: *1dc (the raglan stitch), 1dc in the next sts up to the next raglan st, 1dc into the raglan stitch, 2dc in the next st (first sleeve increase), 1dc in the next sts until 1st before the next raglan st, 2dc in next st (second sleeve increase)*; Rep. from * to * one more time. Turn
R2: 1dc (raglan st), 2dc in next st, 1dc in each st until 1st before the next raglan st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st), 1dc in each of the next sts until the next raglan st, 1dc in next st (raglan st), 2dc in next st, 1dc in each of the next sts until 1st before the raglan st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st) 1 dc in each st to the end of the round; turn;

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.


Sizes XS, S, M, and L
Rep. R1 and R2 until you have 8(9, 10, 11)

Work one more round for YOKE SECTION 2 and this time increase the sleeves by working 3dc in the same st
Last Round Sizes XS and M: *1dc (the raglan stitch), 1dc in the next sts up to the next raglan st, 1dc into the raglan stitch, 3dc in the next st (first sleeve increase), 1dc in the next sts until 1st before the next raglan st, 3dc in next st (second sleeve increase)*; Rep. from * to * one more time. Turn

Last Round Sizes S and L:
1dc (raglan st), 3dc in next st, 1dc in each st until 1st before the next raglan st, 3dc in the next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st), 1dc in each of the next sts until the next raglan st, 1dc in next st (raglan st), 3dc in next st, 1dc in each of the next sts until 1st before the raglan st, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st) 1 dc in each st to the end of the round; turn;

For sizes XS, S, M and L the YOKE is done and you can move to the BODY section.

Sizes XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL

Rep. R1 and R2 until you have 11 (8, 9, 10, 10) rounds

For the last 2 (5, 5, 6, 8) rounds, we will increase the sleeves and also the back and front panels.

Next Round Sizes XL and 3XL
1dc (raglan st), 2dc in next st, 1dc in each st until 1st before the next raglan st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st), 2dc in next st, 1dc in each of the next sts until 1st before next raglan st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st), 2dc in next st, 1dc in each of the next sts until 1st before the raglan st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st), 2dc in next st, 1dc in each st until 1st left, 2dc in last st; turn;
Next Round Sizes XL and 3XL

*1dc (the raglan stitch), 2dc in next st,1dc in the next sts until 1st before the next raglan st, 2dc in next st, 1dc into the raglan stitch, 2dc in the next st (first sleeve increase), 1dc in the next sts until 1st before the next raglan st, 2dc in next st (second sleeve increase)*; Rep. from * to * one more time. Turn
After completing these 2 rounds the YOKE for size XL is done and you can move to the BODY section;

Size 3XL only
Rep. the last 2 rounds until you have 14 rounds for the Yoke Section 2

Next Round Size XXL, 4XL and 5XL

*1dc (the raglan stitch), 2dc in next st,1dc in the next sts until 1st before the next raglan st, 2dc in next st, 1dc into the raglan stitch, 2dc in the next st (first sleeve increase), 1dc in the next sts until 1st before the next raglan st, 2dc in next st (second sleeve increase)*; Rep. from * to * one more time. Turn

Next Round Size XXL, 4XL and 5XL

1dc (raglan st), 2dc in next st, 1dc in each st until 1st before the next raglan st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st), 2dc in next st, 1dc in each of the next sts until 1st before next raglan st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st), 2dc in next st, 1dc in each of the next sts until 1st before the raglan st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st (raglan st), 2dc in next st, 1dc in each st until 1st left, 2dc in last st; turn;
Rep. The last 2 rounds until you have 13 (16, 18) rounds.
The YOKE for size for sizes XXL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL is done and you can move to the BODY section;

Before moving to the body section let’s summarize the Yoke;

For the Yoke Section 1 we worked 5 (5, 5, 6) (6, 6, 6, 7, 7) rows

At the end of section 1 we had:
– 45 (47, 49, 53) (53, 53, 55, 59, 59) sts for – the back and front panels
– 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts for the sleeves
– 4 raglan stitches

For the Yoke section 2 we worked 9 (10, 11, 12) (13, 13, 14, 16, 18) rows.

– 45 (47, 49, 53) (57, 63, 65, 71, 75) sts for – the back and front panels
– 25 (27, 29, 31) (31, 33, 35, 41, 45) sts for the sleeves
– 4 sts for raglan lines

We worked in total for the YOKE, Section 1 and Section 2: 14 (15, 16, 18) (19, 19, 20, 23, 25) rows

BODY

Let’s begin the BODY section by splitting things up. Depending on which side you’re looking at, the split can go from the raglan stitch to either the sleeve or the back panel stitches.

Depending on the size you are making you will need to add a few armpit stitches when skipping the sleeve stitches: 8 (8, 10,10) (14, 14, 18, 18, 18)

Splitting Round Starting the back panel: 1dc (raglan st) 1dc in each st until the next raglan st, 1dc in the raglan st, work the number of sts for the armpit as indicated above, skip the sts for the sleeve, 1dc into the next raglan st, 1dc in each st until the next raglan st, 1dc in the raglan st, ch the armpit sts, skip the sleeve sts and join with the first st; turn

Splitting Round Starting with the sleeve:
1dc (raglan st) ch the armpit sts, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc in next raglan st, 1dc in each st to the next raglan st, 1dc in the raglan st, ch the armpit sts, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc in next raglan st, 1dc in each st to the end of the round.

Next: Continue working 1dc in each st until you have 21 rounds or until you get to the desired length.

SLEEVES

Rejoin yarn at the armpit

Work the sleeves in the round but turn after each round;

R1: 1dc in each st around; join with a slip stitch and turn;

Repe R1 until you have 26 rounds or until you reach the desired length

RIBBING

We will work the ribbing for the bottom hem, cuffs and neckline

Use a 4mm crochet hook
Start: 7ch
R1: start into the second st, 1sc into the next 6sts, 1sl st into the next 2sts of the Body/sleeve edge, turn
R2: 1scblo in next sts, except the last one, 1sc into the last st, 1ch and turn
R3: 1sc in the first st, 1sc blo into the next sts, 1ss into the next 2sts of the edge. Turn.
Rep. R2 and R3 until you complete the circumference of the body/sleeve.
Join the ends of the ribbing using slip stitches.

To create the Neckline Ribbing, we will use the same ribbing pattern as before. However, before starting the ribbing, you will need to work a round in single crochet stitches. When working into the side rows, make sure to work two single crochets in each double crochet side row.

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

For a more comprehensive understanding, refer to the visual demonstration in the video tutorial linked here:

Part 1: The Yoke :

Part 2: Body and Sleeves

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

In 2018, when I started designing crochet stuff, I made the first Starry Night Blouse. It was my first year doing this.

I feel like my best designs come from back then because I was more into making things and less into writing down how to do it. Writing patterns is tough. Sometimes it’s hard to explain in words how to crochet something. It’s not because it’s too hard to make, but explaining it can be wordy and tricky. Making a crochet or knitting pattern that’s clear and easy to follow is not easy.

Anyway, this year, with the help of the awesome folks at Expression Fiber Arts, I crocheted a new Starry Night Blouse using their beautiful yarn.

I changed a few things in this new one. I used the same stitch pattern all through, and I made the whole blouse in pieces. I added cuffs, a ribbed bottom, and a V neckline for the front.

Modelul In Limba Romana, il puteti gasi aici

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

I hope you will enjoy this new pattern and I can’t wait to see your makes.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size 3, Sport) weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 4 mm crochet hook
• stitch markers
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Starry Night Blouse is designed with batwing sleeves. It is constructed by working individual panels for the front and back, which are then sewn together.

Each panel consists of four sections that require different techniques to shape the blouse:

Section 1: The main triangle. This section is worked to achieve the desired width from cuff to cuff. As you work on this width, it will also add length to the blouse. It’s important to maintain the proportions while doing so.

Section 2: Creating the armhole or sleeve opening. To achieve this, we decrease stitches at the beginning and end of each row. This helps keep the edges of the armhole straight.

Sections 3 and 4: These sections are worked to make the bottom of the blouse straight and fill the sides of the blouse.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Starry Night Blouse pattern is available in 8 sizes, S (M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). In this pattern, you will find information about how to adjust the pattern to your own measurements.

Final Measurements of the Starry Night Blouse
– Cuff to cuff a: 113 cm (120, 127, 127) (133, 147, 153, 160)
– Neck Width b*: 28 cm (28, 28, 28) (28, 28, 28, 28)
– sleeve opening width c: 12 cm (14, 14, 19) (19, 22, 22, 22)
– Bottom hem width d: 43cm (48, 53, 58) (63, 68, 73, 78); measured without stretching
Sleeve length. e: 31 cm (31, 31, 31) (31, 31, 31, 31)
– Length f: 53 cm (57, 60, 66) (68, 73, 75, 77)
*The neck width is measured across the back panel; If you want to adjust it, you have a couple of options mentioned in the pattern

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

YARN

For the Starry Night Blouse, I used Palm Breeze by Expression Fiber Arts, in color Buttery; Yarn composition: 100% superwash Merino Wool. Each hank has 100 grams and is approximately 274 meters / 300 yd.

For each size, you will need:
1050 (1190, 1330, 1460) (1580, 1870, 2000, 2150) meters
4 (5, 5, 6) (6, 7, 8, 8) hanks.

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Scblo – single crochet in the back loop only
Tsc – twisted single crochet
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – 2 double crochet worked together
dc2tog wide – 2 dc worked together, but skip 1st in between
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – row

TENSION

Using a 4mm crochet hook working in a triangle pattern:

After 6 rows the triangle base measures 20 cm;

17dc = 10 cm
9 rows (alternating 1 solid row with 1 window row) = 10 cm

Note: all the gauge measurements are taken after wet blocking

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The Starry Night blouse features a stitch pattern that alternates between a solid row and a “windows” row or mesh stitch row. The solid row is worked using double crochet stitches, while the windows row consists of alternating double crochet stitches and chain stitches.
In the description of the Starry Night design, you could see that one panel of the blouse is constructed with three sections:

Section 1: The main triangle. This section has three increases: one at the beginning, one at the middle (also known as the center point), and one at the end of the row. The increases at the beginning and end are achieved by working three stitches in the same stitch. On the solid row, it’s 3 double crochet stitches in the same stitch, and on the windows row, it’s (1 double crochet, 1 chain, 1 double crochet) in the same stitch. The middle row increase is the same in both Section 1 and Section 2: (1 double crochet, 1 chain, 1 double crochet) in the same chain space.

Section 2: In this section, we create the sleeve opening or armhole. To maintain a straight edge for the armhole, we need to decrease at the beginning and end of each row. The rule for decreasing is to reduce the same number of stitches that we added with the middle increase. With the middle increase, we added 2 stitches, one on each side of the triangle. To decrease these stitches at the beginning and end of the row, we use the dc2tog (double crochet two together) stitch. Here’s how to do it: yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pass it through two loops on the hook. Repeat this process once more, then yarn over and pull it through all the loops on your hook. At the beginning of the row, the decrease will be made with 3 chain stitches and 1 double crochet into the next stitch, where the 3 chain stitches do not count as a stitch.

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

Sections 3 and 4: These sections are designed to create a straight bottom hem and fill the sides of the panels.

To begin, we need to pick up the desired number of stitches, depending on the width of the bottom hem. Start counting from the middle point towards the left and right sides. Once we have the required number of stitches, we will work exclusively within those stitches for this section. We will decrease at the beginning and end of each row until there are no stitches remaining.

To make the decreases, we will use a wider version of the dc2tog stitch. The process is similar to dc2tog, but with one stitch skipped in between. This allows us to decrease by 2 stitches at each end.

At the beginning of the row, the decrease is made by chaining 3, skipping the next stitch, and then working 1 double crochet in the next stitch. Remember that the initial chain of 3 does not count as a stitch.

HOW TO ADJUST THE STARRY NIGHT BLOUSE PATTERN SO IT CAN FIT YOUR BODY

To ensure a perfect fit for the Starry Night Blouse, it’s important to consider your measurements for cuff to cuff, desired length, armhole opening (upper arm), and bust.

Since the blouse is constructed in panels, we will focus on the width rather than the circumference as a reference.

Let’s break down each part and explain what needs to be done:

Cuff to cuff: This part encompasses the length of the sleeves and the width of the body. In this design, it’s not possible to achieve the full sleeve length right from the start, as increasing the width for cuff to cuff would also add length to the blouse. Therefore, it’s crucial to maintain good proportions.
Step 1: Once you have the desired width for cuff to cuff, you can start working on the main triangle. When the base of the triangle matches the desired measurements, you can proceed to Section 2.

To focus on Section 2, we will concentrate on creating the sleeve opening. To determine the width of the opening, measure your upper arm and divide the measurement by 2. Add an additional 1 to 2 centimeters to ensure the sleeve opening is not too tight.

Step 2: Begin working on Section 2. Once you reach the desired measurements for the sleeve opening, you can proceed to Section 3, followed by Section 4.

Before starting Sections 3 and 4, we need to establish the necessary number of stitches to work with. To do this, we will use the bust width measurements or the widest part of our body as a reference. While this design allows for ample room around the bust, we need to ensure that the bottom hem covers the circumference of the bust to make the blouse easy to wear.

Using a measuring tape, start from the middle point and move upwards, holding the measuring tape perpendicular to the blouse panel. Once you have the desired measurements, considering your bust width, mark those stitches.

Important note: As we work on Sections 3 and 4, the bottom hem will become narrower than our initial measurement. Make sure to add between 10 to 15 centimeters to your bust width measurement. For example, if you started with a desired width of 55 centimeters, the final width of the bottom hem may measure around 43 centimeters.
Make sure you have the same number of sts from middle point to the left and to the right.

Step 3: Begin working on Sections 3 and 4.

PATTERN NOTES

– work the pieces flat; turn after each row;
– ch3 at the end of each row; for Section 1 ch3 will count as a double crochet; for Sections 2, 3, and 4, ch3 will not count as a stitch, it will be part of the decrease
– the follwing pattern includes stitch charts and a video tutorial; the video tutorial is for size small but you can use it as guidance for all the sizes;

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

INSTRUCTIONS

BACK PANEL
Section 1 – Main Triangle

Start: Make a magic ring (or you can ch4 and slip stitch to make a circle)

R1: 3ch, 6dc inside the ring (7sts)
R2:(4ch, 1dc) in the first st, 1ch skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) – center point, into the next st, 1ch, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1 st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the third ch, 3ch and turn (15 sts)
R3: 2dc in the first st, 1dc in each st until the 1ch-sp center point, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the 1ch-sp, 1dc in each st until the last ch3, 3dc into the third ch; (21 sts)
R4: (ch4, 1dc) into the first st, 1ch, skip the next st, *1dc in next st, 1ch, skip next st; *rep. until the 1ch-sp center point, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the 1ch-sp, 1ch, skip next st, **1dc in next st, 1ch, skip next st; **rep. until the last 3ch, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the third ch; 3ch and turn; (27sts)
Rep. R3 and R4 until you have in total 34 (36, 38, 40) (42, 44, 46, 48) rows.

Note: you will increase 6sts with every row;

At the end of section 1 you should have 207 (219, 231, 243) (255. 267, 279, 291) – counting the 1ch-sp center point as well
If you count from the center point to the left and right you should have 103 (109, 115, 121) (127, 133, 139, 145)

Section 2 – Working accross the armholes

Continue from where your yarn is. We will start counting from R1 as all the sizes are different row numbers to start with.

R1: 3ch, 1dc in next st (3ch will not count as st), 1dc in each st until the 1ch-sp center point (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the 1ch-sp, 1dc in each st until you have 2sts left, dc2tog (See the Stitch Pattern and techniques section)
R2: 3ch, 1dc in the next st, 1ch, skip next st, *1dc in next st, 1ch, skip next st; *rep. until the 1ch-sp center point, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the 1ch-sp, 1ch, skip next st, **1dc in next se, 1ch, skip next st; ** rep. until you have 2sts left, dc2tog.

Rep. R1 and R2 until you have in total: 10 (12, 12, 16) (16, 18, 18, 18) rows.

At the end of Section 2 you should have the same number of sts as at the end of Section 1

Section 3 and 4 – make the bottom hem straight and fill the sides of the panel

Both panels are worked the same, only that for Section 3 your last st in the row will be the stitch before the 1ch-sp center point and for Section 4, the stitch after the 1ch-sp center point will be the first st in the row.

Step 1: Establish the number of sts yo work with; this number has to be a multiple of 2+1.

Count from the center point 1ch-sp to the left and right, 55 (61, 67, 73) (81, 87, 93, 99). These sts will be the base for Section 3 and Section 4.

Now that you have the sts you need to start with you can follow the pattern below:

R1: 3ch (this will not count as a st), skip next st, 1dc in next, 1dc in each st until you have 3sts, left, dc2tog wide (See the Stitch Pattern and techniques section.
R2: 3ch, skip next st, *1dc in next, 1ch, skip next st; *rep until you have 3dc left, dc2tog wide;

Rep. R1 and R2 until you have no sts left.

Then Repeat the same pattern for the other side

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

FRONT PANEL

When working on the front panel of the blouse, you have the flexibility to adjust the width of the neckline.

In this particular pattern, regardless of the size, the front panel begins at Row 11 of the back panel, creating a V-neckline shape.

To modify the neckline width according to the pattern instructions, you have a couple of options:

Starting the front panel with a few rows up: By beginning the front panel at a higher row, you can change the width of the neckline to your preference.

Working both panels without a V-neck: If you prefer not to have a V-neck, you can sew additional stitches for the shoulders. This will allow you to adjust the neckline width accordingly.

Front Panel Section 1

Start: ch64
R1: Start into the 5th st, 2dc, into the 5th st, 1dc in next 29sts, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) – center point in next st, 1dc in next 29sts, 3dc in last st. (67sts) – this row has the same number of sts as R11 of the back panel.
R2: (4ch, 1dc) in the first st, 1ch skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) – center point, into the next st, 1ch, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1 st, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the third ch, 3ch and turn (73sts)
R3: 2dc in the first st, 1dc in each st until the 1ch-sp center point, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the 1ch-sp, 1dc in each st until the last ch3, 3dc into the third ch; (79 sts)
R4: (ch4, 1dc) into the first st, 1ch, skip the next st, *1dc in next st, 1ch, skip next st; *rep. until the 1ch-sp center point, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the 1ch-sp, 1ch, skip next st, **1dc in next st, 1ch, skip next st; **rep. until the last 3ch, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the third ch; 3ch and turn; (85sts)
Rep. R3 and R4 until you have in total 24 (26, 28, 30) (32, 34, 36, 38) rows.

At the end of section 1 You should have the same number of sts as for the Back Panel.

For section 2, 3 and 4 follow the same pattern as for the BACK PANEL.

ASSEMBLING

Before assembling it is important, depending the yarn you are using to block the panels before sewing. This will prevent the stitches from stretching more than the seam.

Place the panels one on top of the other, facing the right side.
Stitch first the shoulders and the stitch the sides.

Sewing Method

Prepare the yarn by threading it onto a darning needle, making it about three times longer than the length you are about to sew.
Since we are working with double crochet stitches, we will refer to the stitches as follows:

– Bottom of the double crochet: 1stitch
– Top of the double crochet: 1 stitch
– First chain of the chain-3: 1 stitch
– Last chain of the chain-3: 1 stitch
Step 1: Start by inserting your needle from the back to the front through the first stitch on the right side. Then, bring the needle from the front to the back through the first stitch on the left side. Tie a knot to secure the yarn.

Step 2: Insert the needle into the same stitch on the right side and pull it out through the next stitch on the right side. Then, insert the needle into the same stitch on the left side and pull it out through the next stitch on the left side.
Continue weaving in this manner until you have finished sewing the piece.

EDGING

To prepare the piece for the neckline edging, bottom hem, and sleeves cuff, work first 1 round in single crochet.

When working in to the side rows, consider working 2sc in each dc or ch3 side row; you can adjust the number of sts according with your tension;

Neckline edging

After the first single crochet round, work one more round in a twisted single crochet.
Insert the hook into the next st, yarn over, pull out a loop, twist your hook 180 Degrees clockwise, yarn over, and pass it through both twisted loops. Repeat the process for the entire round.

Bottom hem and cuffs ribbing

Start: rejoin yarn and ch11
R1: start in the second st, 1sc in each of the next 10sts, 1ss into the next 2sts of the bottom hem/sleeves edge; turn
R2: 1scblo in next 10sts, 1ch and turn
R3: 1scblo in each of the next 10sts, 1ss in next 2sts of the bottom hem/sleeves edge; turn

Rep. R2 and R3 until you complete the entire circumference.
Use slip stitch to join the ribbing edges.

TO FINISH

Weave in all the ends and block to measurements.

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here: