Since I started to design crochet clothes, I made over 20 sweaters and I love each one of them.

Today I will show you 14 of them which I love the most. It’s funny that I didn’t realized  that I have so many. After meeting some great people in a craft event here in Netherlands, I was surprised that everybody was telling me : “You are Katerina? I love your sweaters!” 

At first I was thinking: “Why my sweaters? Why not my designs? I am not doing only sweaters? But then, I counted my patterns and my sweater patterns, and definitely I can be called a “Sweater Designer” :))

Well, I love my sweaters and I love doing them. I love making top down sweaters the most, because I hate assembling and sewing pieces :).

In this post you will find 14 Sweater Crochet Patterns that you will love. Some of them ware designed for Hobbii Yarn and the patterns are available for FREE on their website. 

Others ware designed for myself and they are published on my website. These ones are for FREE on the Blog, but you can also find them in my shops as a PDF file, not for FREE, you have to pay a small fee to support my business and my creativity :).

But, starting from today and until the end of this month, there is a  huge discount of 70% on all selected sweater patterns in my web shop and on Ravelry.

So here they are, my lovely sweaters. To get to the pattern, click the link above the photo.

Indradha Sweater – Designed for Hobbii

Spring Time Cable Sweater. You can find the pattern here: 

On the Blog

In My Web Shop

On Ravelry

Butterfly Swancho – Designed For Hobbii

Bat Wings Sweater. You can find the pattern here:

On the Blog

In My Web Shop

On Ravelry

Ocean Sweater. Designed for Hobbii

Mixed Up Sweater. You can find the pattern here:

On the Blog

In My Web Shop

On Ravelry

Rusty Gold Sweater. Designed for Hobbii

My Precious Sweater. You can find the pattern here:

On the Blog

In My Web Shop

On Ravelry

Men’s Tivoli Open Sweater/Cardigan. Designed For Hobbii

Rainy Cloud Jumper. You can find the pattern here:

On the Blog

In My Web Shop

On Ravelry

Rain Drops Sweater. Designed for Hobbii

Coaty Sweater. You can find the pattern here:

On the Blog

In My Web Shop

On Ravelry

Delighted Sweater. Designed for Hobbii

Plaid Love Sweater. You can find the Pattern here:

On the Blog

In My Web Shop

On Ravelry

I hope you love each of them as much as I do! Don’t forget to tag me if you are posting a photo with your makes. I will love to see them.

Now, I will go working on other sweaters, or maybe it’s time to do something else :))


Lately I started to remake some of my oldest patterns and I am so happy with this because some of them are really beautiful. Today I will share with you the Bunny Sweater which I love it so much.

This time I decided to make another sweater for this remake, because the first I made was for size 2Y and my daughter grew in the mean time and I gave it away because it was too small for her.



You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

This Sweater was the first garment piece I made as a designer and basically was the one that convinced me that I am pretty good at this πŸ™‚

If you already purchased the older version of this pattern, please send me an e-mail at and I will send you the updated version

This time the pattern is available in 5 sizes, from 2 years old up to 10 years old and has also a video tutorial.

Materials you will need

  • Yarn
    • Category 3, DK weigh Yarn
  • Needle

4 mm crochet hook (US G size)

  • You will need a yarn needle for assembling and to hide the ends
  • Scissors

Pattern notes

This Bunny Sweater has a classic construction. We will work 4 panels: Back, front and sleeves. After assembling we will add a hood.

Back and front panels have almost the same pattern, considering the number of stitches and rows, but on the front panel we will work a bunny in a contrasting color using tapestry crochet technique.

The pattern is available in 5 sizes, from 2 Y up to 10 Y old.

For reference my daughter has 3 years and 9 months and she is wearing size 4 Y.


Final measurements

The Bunny sweater has a positive ease of 5 to 6 cm. If your child is between sizes you can use the table below to choose the proper size to make.

Final measurements for each panel are:

Cross Back a: 24 cm (25, 26, 27, 29)

Bust Width b: 33 cm (35, 38, 40, 42)

Length to Armpit c: 22 cm (23, 26, 29, 31)

Armhole depth d: 12 cm (14, 15, 16, 18)

Neck Line e: 12 cm (13, 14, 15, 16)

Upper arm f: 27 cm (28, 31, 32, 32)

Sleeve Length to Armpit g: 22 cm (27, 30, 32, 35)

How much yarn do you need?

For this pattern I used Stylecraft Belissima, which is a 100% Premium Acrylic Yarn. Each Skein has 100 grams and approximate 286 meters. For the bunny I used some left over yarn in color white of the same weight. You will need for the bunny less of half a skein.

For each size you will approximate need:


About the stitch pattern.

All panels of this Bunny Sweater are worked in single crochet

Abbreviations used in this pattern

  • Ch – chain
  • sc – Double Crochet
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Dec – Decrease (sc2tog – insert the hook in the next st and pull out a loop, insert the hook in the second st and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through all loops on your hook)
  • Inc – increase (2 sc in the same st)


  • 15 sc – 10 cm (4”)
  • 18 rows sc – 10 cm (4”)

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:


Pattern Notes

Ch 1 at the beginning of each row doesn’t count as first sc

Change the color with 2 loops on your hook from the last stitch.

When working at the bunny carry on the second yarn, but only for the bunny sts.

Always keep the yarn strands on the wrong side of your work.

Back Panel

Start with the foundation ch.

  • 2Y – 50 sts
  • 4Y – 52 sts
  • 6Y – 58 sts
  • 8Y – 60 sts
  • 10Y – 64 sts

Row 1

Ch 1 more, and starting with the second st, 1 sc in each to the end of the row. Ch 1 and turn.

Repeat row 1 until you have in total:

  • 2Y – 43 rows
  • 4Y – 42 rows
  • 6Y – 47 rows
  • 8Y – 54 rows
  • 10 Y – 58 rows

If you want the sweater to me longer you can make more rows on this section.

Next, we will start shaping the armholes. To do this we will decrease with 1 sc at the beginning and at the end of the row.

*the numbers for sizes, 4Y, 6Y, 8Y and 10Y are written between brackets.

Row 44 (43, 48, 55, 59)

1 dec (sc 2 tog), 1 sc in each st until you have 2 sts left, 1 dec. Ch 1 and turn

Repeat previous row for:

  • 2Y – 7 rows ( 50 rows after finish dec)
  • 4Y – 7 rows ( 49 rows)
  • 6Y – 8 rows ( 55 rows)
  • 8Y – 8 rows ( 62 rows)
  • 10Y – 8 rows ( 66 rows)

Next, we will continue to work 1 sc in each st, without dec for:

  • 2Y – 15 more rows
  • 4Y – 19 more rows
  • 6Y – 18 more rows
  • 8Y – 19 more rows
  • 10Y – 22 more rows

In the end you will have in total

  • 2Y – 65 rows
  • 4Y – 68 rows
  • 6Y – 73 rows
  • 8Y – 81 rows
  • 10Y – 88 rows

Fasten off.

Front panel

For the front panel we will follow the same pattern as for the back panel. This time we will have to use the Bunny chart to insert the bunny.

You have to read the chart from right to left when working on the right side and from left to right when working on the wrong side.

Each square from the chart represent 1 stitch and 1 row.

The chart has 30 sts/30 rows

To center the bunny, count the total numbers of rows that you have for the back panel, decrease 30 sts for the bunny. Divide the result by 2 to know how many rows you will have to make before and after the bunny:

  • 2Y – 18 rows before bunny, 17 rows after
  • 4Y – 19 rows before, 19 rows after
  • 6Y – 22 rows before, 21 after
  • 8Y – 26 rows before, 25 after
  • 10Y – 29 rows before, 29 after

Now that you know how many rows to make before the bunny you have to start the front panel with the same number of sts as the back panel and do these rows.

Next, we will have to calculate how many sts we have before and after the bunny.

Count the number of sts, decrease 30 and divide the result by 2. This is the number of sts that you should have before and after the bunny.

  • 2Y – 10 sts before and after
  • 4Y – 11 sts before and after
  • 6Y – 14 sts before and after
  • 8Y – 15 sts before and after
  • 10Y – 17 sts before and after

Use some st markers to mark the 30 sts for the bunny to know where you will start following the chart.

Next you will have to follow the chart to make the color work.

You can follow the link below for the video of the sweater to help you out.

Also, follow the pattern for the back, for the armhole shaping.

The last 2 rows of the front panel will be worked only in the  sts for the shoulder letting the neck line apart.

  • 2Y – 7 sts on right and left
  • 4Y – 7 sts
  • 6Y – 7 sts
  • 8Y – 6 sts
  • 10Y – 7 sts

Fasten off


Make 2


  • 2Y – 26 sts
  • 4Y – 28 sts
  • 6Y – 30 sts
  • 8Y – 32 sts
  • 10Y – 32 sts

To get to the upper arm width we will have to increase. On the row with increase, you will increase with 1 sc at the beginning of the row and 1 at the end.

Sleeve length to armpit

*numbers for sizes 4Y, 6Y, 8Y and 10 Y are written between brackets

Rows 1 – 4 (1-5, 1-5, 1-6, 1-6)

1 sc in each st. Ch 1 and turn

 Row 5 (6, 6, 7, 7)

1 inc (2 sc in the same st), 1 sc in each st to the last one, 1 inc in the last st. ch 1 and turn

Repeat rows 1 to 5 (1 to 6, 1 to 6, 1 to 7, 1 50 7) :

  • 2Y – 7 times (35 rows)
  • 4Y – 7 times (42 rows)
  • 6Y – 8 times (48 rows)
  • 8Y – 8 times (56 rows)
  • 10Y – 8 times (56 rows)

Next, to get to the sleeve length to the armpit we will continue with a few more rows without increasing.

  • 2Y – 4 more rows
  • 4Y – 6 more rows
  • 6Y – 6 more rows
  • 8Y – 1 more row
  • 10Y – 7 more rows

Next, we will start decreasing with 1 st at the beginning and 1 at the end of the row:

  • 2Y – 14 rows
  • 4Y – 16 rows
  • 6Y – 17 rows
  • 8Y – 18 rows
  • 10Y – 20 rows

At the end of the sleeve you will have in total:

  • 2Y – 53 rows and 12 sts left
  • 4Y – 64 rows and 10 sts left
  • 6Y – 71 rows and 12 sts left
  • 8Y – 75 rows and 12 sts left
  • 10Y – 83 rows and 8 sts left

Fasten off.

Repeat the pattern for the second sleeve.


First we will assemble back and front panel. Using a tapestry needle sew the shoulders and then the sides.

Next sew the sleeves.


Point the 2 sts in the middle of the neck line.

The one in the left will be the first st of the hood and the one in the right the last st.

Row 1

1 sc in each st, ch 1 and turn

Repeat row 1 until you have in total:

  • 2Y – 33 rows
  • 4Y – 34 rows
  • 6Y – 37 rows
  • 8Y – 41 rows
  • 10Y – 44 rows

Fasten off.

Next, count the total number of sts and mark 8 sts in the middle.

Join the yarn in the first st of the 8. Make 1 sc in each of the 8 th sts, in the next 2 sts make 2 slip stitches and turn.

Skip the 2 sl sts and make 1 sc in each of the next 8 sc, 2 sl st in the next 2.

Continue like this until you don’t have any sts left on the right and left.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

 Fasten off

To finish

Add 1 more row in single crochet to the hood edge and wave in all ends.

And done!

You can also find a video tutorial for this cute Bunny Sweater here (click the photo below)


Bunny Sweater.Free Crochet Pattern & Video Tutorial
Make this cute sweater for the children in your life. They will love it!!

This Easy Knitted Cowl is the second pattern within the project “Crochet and Knit for beginners” and I am super happy with it, because it is actually my first written knit pattern.

You can see the first pattern, Crocheted Winter Set here

Winter Set with Beanie & Cowl. Free Crochet Pattern

Pentru Postarea in Limba Romana, click aici


It’s funny how  after 3 years I am finally publishing my first knitted pattern. You know why? Because I learned to knit before crochet and in my childhood I was more into knitting then into crochet. Maybe I was influenced by my Granny who was knitting all winter long. Anyways…the reason why I didn’t published a pattern until now, it’s because I am a faster crocheter then knitter and it was easier to finish one crochet project then a knitted one. But this year I promise my self to do both.

You can download the FREE PDF Pattern from here (On Etsy is listed at 1 Euro)


If you are knew to this, I have to say it again that all the patterns in this category, Crochet and Knit for Beginners can be downloaded for FREE in all my shops, except Etsy where it will be listed for just 1 Euro because you can not list free items.  

 Before I will start talking about this Easy Knitted Cowl Pattern, I just want to highlight that I am opened for any of your suggestions on what to make for this section of my blog. So if you have any ideas and you will like to learn something, feel free to comment bellow.

Materials you will need

  • Yarn
    • Category 3, DK (the cowl it’s worked holding 2 strands of yarn at ones)
  • Needles

8 mm circular knit needles, 80 cm length

  • yarn needle to hide the ends
  • Scissors
  • 1 stitch marker
  • 6 mm crochet hook to fasten off

 Pattern notes

This Cowl features working in continuous rounds, knit stitch and purl stitch

It’s worked only on the right side.

Final measurements

70 cm circumference and approximate 30 cm high

How much yarn do you need?

This Cowl it’s the perfect project if you have some left-over yarn, because you will need only half skein of each color. (1 skein 100 grams and 300 m)

I used for this Easy Knitted Cowl, Scheepjes Color Crafter in color Black and Light Grey, but you can use any other DK, light weight yarn in contrasting colors to obtain this marble effect.

About the stitch pattern.

To make this easy cowl you need to know how to purl and how to knit.

k: Knit

k st  (knit stitch)– With yarn at back, insert point of right-hand needle in front of stitch from left to right on left-hand needle, bring yarn under and over the top of point of right needle, draw loop through stitch and drop this stitch off left needle.

 p: Purl

p st (purl stitch) – With yarn at front, insert point of right hand needle in front of stitch from right to left on left needle, bring yarn over and under the top of point of right needle, draw loop through stitch and drop this stitch off left needle.

You can download the FREE PDF Pattern from here (On Etsy is listed at 1 Euro)


Abbreviations used in this pattern

  • K – knit
  • P – purl
  • St(s) – stitch (es)


  • 12 k st = 10 cm (4”)
  • 16 k rows = 10 cm (4 β€œ)

IF you can’t get to the same gauge, make a swatch to see how many k st you have in 10 cm, then multiply the number of stitches by 7 to see how many sts you need to cast on.


Cast on 80 sts.

Before making the join make sure the sts are oriented inside the circle and your yarn is on your right needle.


With the right needle take the first stitch from the left needle. Then, pull out the second st from the right needle. Let this st between you needles. This will be the join.

Use a stitch marker and put it on your right needle, to mark the beginning of the round.

Round 1: k all the sts around.

Round 2: p all the sts around

Rounds 3 – 6: Repeat rounds 1 and 2 (alternate 1 k round with 1 p round)

Rounds 7 – 47: k all sts around

Rounds 48 – 53 : alternate 1 p round with 1 k round

Fasten off

Use a 6 mm crochet hook as your right needle.

P first st, you have now 1 loop on your hook.

P next st, and pull the loop through the first loop on your hook. Repeat with all sts.  Make sure you  you have only one loop on your hook after each p st. At the end of the round insert the hook st and make a slip st. Chain 1 and cut the yarn.

You can download the FREE PDF Pattern from here (On Etsy is listed at 1 Euro)

To finish

Wave in all ends (well there are only 2)

And the Cowl is done! Super easy isn’t it?

You can also watch the video tutorial here