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Bykaterina

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I had this Varsity Jacket design on my “to make list” for 2 years! This year so far was the year for bringing old ideas to life and I am glad that it happened this way because now my new ideas will have time to became old and then the story will repeat 😁😅

But, feels nice not to give up on some designs ideas that I had a long time ago!

I don’t have too many words with me today, and already took me too long to write these 3 sentences, so I think I will step right into the pattern and share with you how you can make this Varsity Jacket.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Lovecraft

MATERIALS

• Yarn: worsted yarn weight (Size 4)

• Crochet Hook:
o 4.5 mm crochet hook (I used Odyssey Nickel Crochet Hook Black)
• yarn needle for weave in ends
• Stitch markers
• split zipper (according to the length)
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Varsity Jacket has a top-down construction with a positive ease of about 18 cm around the bust circumference.
The raglan increases are made individually for sleeves and body which will give you the opportunity to adjust the increases according to desired sleeves’ or body’s circumference.

The jacket is worked in single crochet stitches with slip stitches in the back loop only ribbing.

This particular design has hidden pockets, but the jacket can be worked without them if you prefer.

The finishes are making the difference. From the hided pockets to the way of sewing the zipper and surface slip stitches details, everything will make you love to wear this jacket.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Varsity Jacket Pattern is available in 8 sizes, from Small up to 5X Large.
The model is 168 cm tall and wears size Small.

Neckline a: 18 cm (18, 19, 19, 20, 20, 22, 22)
Bust width b: 52 cm (57, 62, 67, 72, 77, 82, 87)
Yoke Depth c: 19 cm (20, 22, 24, 26, 29, 30, 31)
Sleeve circ. d: 39 cm (41, 44, 48, 53, 56, 60, 63)
Sleeve length e: 42 cm (42, 44, 44, 45, 45, 46, 46)
**Length f: 58 cm (59, 61, 63, 65, 68, 69, 70)

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

How much yarn do you need?

I used:
Concept Sweet Fleece by Katia in color 71, Dark Grey. Is a mix of 80% virgin wool and 20% polyamide. Each ball has 50 grams and approximate 120 meters
For each size you will need:
11 ( 12, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 21) balls or
1290 (1400, 1580, 1760, 1970, 2160, 2350, 2510) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
ss blo – slip stitch in back loop only
Fpdc – front post double crochet
fsc – foundation single crochet
dec – decrease: sc2tog
PM/RPM – place st marker/remove and place st marker
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rows
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 4.5 mm crochet hook in single crochet stitch pattern
14 sts = 10 cm
16 rows = 10cm

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You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

STITCH PATTERN

The main stitch pattern used for the Varsity Jacket is single crochet. We will use front post double crochet stitches for the raglan lines and a slip stitch in the back loop only ribbing for the neckline, cuffs, and bottom hem.
Also, you will need to know how to make foundation single crochet for the short rows
Foundation single crochet (fsc)
Step 1. insert the hook into the side of the last st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pass it through the first loop on your hook only, yarn over and pass it through both loops on your hook.
Step 2: Insert the hook into the bottom “v” of the last fsc, yarn over and pull out a loop yarn over and pass it through the first loop on your hook only, yarn over and pass it through both loops on your hook.
Repeat Step 2 as many times as indicated.
sc2tog: *Insert the hook into the next st, yarn over, and pull out a loop (2 loops on your hook) *. Rep from * to * one more time, yarn over and pass it through all 3 loops on your hook.

PATTERN NOTES

Work the piece flat; turn after each row.
Work 1ch before starting a row; 1ch does not count as first st.
Work the increases only on the right side the increase will be made before and after the raglan line.
for bigger sizes, we will have 2 types of increases: single increase (2sc in the same st) or double increase (3sc in the same st)
The double increases will be made for the last few rows of the yoke only on the front and back panels
at the beginning of the yoke we will work 5 short rows to lower the front.
The pattern is written with the same armpit length for all sizes.
remove and place a stitch marker into the raglan line st (the st that is after the first increase and before the second increase.

INSTRUCTIONS

Numbers for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL are written between brackets

YOKE

Start: ch4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) sts place st. marker, ch16 (16, 17, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19) sts and place st. marker, ch31 (32, 33, 33, 35, 35, 37, 37) sts and place a st. marker, ch16 (16, 17, 17, 18, 18, 19, 19) sts and place a st. marker, ch4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4).
Total sts: 71 (71, 75, 75, 79, 79, 83, 83) ch sts
R1: start in the second st
1sc in next 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) sts, (2sc in next st, 1sc in next st (RPM), 2sc in next st) – raglan increases; 1sc in next 14 (14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17) sts (2sc in next st, 1sc in next (RPM), 2sc in next st), 1sc in next 29 (30, 31, 31, 33, 33, 35, 35), (2sc in next st, 1sc in next st (RPM), 2sc in next st), 1sc in next 14 (14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17) sts (2sc in next st, 1sc in next (RPM), 2sc in next st), 1sc in next 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) sts, ch4 and turn (you added 8sts +3 ch sts at the end of the row.

R2: 1sc in next 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) ch sts, 1sc in each of the following sts until the end of the row, 3fsc, 1ch and turn. (you added 3fsc)
R3: 1sc in next 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) fsc, *1sc in each st until 1 st before marker, (2sc in next st, 1Fpdc around the next st 1row below (RPM), 2sc in next st)*. Rep, from *to* until the last raglan line, 1sc in the remaining sts, ch 4 and turn. (you added 8sts +3 ch sts at the end of the row.)

R4: Rep. R2
R5:Rep. R3
R6: Rep. R2
R7: 1sc in next 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) fsc, *1sc in each st until 1 st before marker, (2sc in next st, 1Fpdc around the next st 1row below (RPM), 2sc in next st)*. Rep, from *to* until the last raglan line, 1sc in the remaining sts. ch 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts and turn. (you added 8sts +3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) ch sts at the end of the row.)
R8: 1sc in next 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) ch sts, 1sc in each of the following sts until the end of the row, 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6)fsc, 1ch and turn. (you added 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6)fsc)

We finished with short rows and we will continue to work on the yoke without increasing at the beginning and at the end of the row; only on the raglan lines.

R9: 1sc in each st until 1 st before marker, (2sc in next st, 1Fpdc around the next st 1row below (RPM), 2sc in next st)*. Rep, from *to* until the last raglan line. Work 1sc in the remaining sts. 1ch and turn. (you added 8 sts)
R10: 1sc in each st until the end of the row.

Rep. R9-R10 until you have in total 30 (28, 30, 34, 38, 40, 42, 42) rows.

For sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL only:

For size Small, the yoke is done and you can move to the next section of the pattern.
For the other sizes, we will start making a double increase only on the body sections (front and back panels and not on the sleeves)

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Next row size M (L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL):
*1sc in each st until 1 st before marker, (3sc in next st, 1Fpdc around the next st 1row below (RPM), 2sc in next st), 1sc in each st until 1 st before marker, (2sc in next st, 1Fpdc around the next st 1row below, 3sc in next st).
*rep. one more time until the last raglan line. Work 1sc in each of the remaining sts, 1ch, and turn. (you added 12 sts)
Next row: 1sc in each st until the end of the row.

Rep. the last 2 rows until you have in total
for sizes M (L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL),
32 (34, 38, 42, 46, 48, 50) rows.

After finishing the yoke you will have in total:
back panel: 60 (66, 70, 74, 80, 86, 80, 94) sts
front panel:30 (33, 35, 37, 40, 43, 45, 47) sts
Sleeves: 45 (47, 50, 54, 59, 63, 66, 68)

BODY
Section until pockets.
R1:Separating row (right side)
1sc in next 30 (33, 35, 37, 40, 43, 45, 47) sts, 1sc in next sc, ch 8 (9, 12, 15, 16, 17, 20, 23) sts, skip next 45 (47, 50, 54, 59, 63, 66, 68), 1sc in next st, 1sc in next 60 (66, 70, 74, 80, 86, 80, 94) sts, 1sc in next st, ch 8 (9, 12, 15, 16, 17, 20, 23) sts, skip next 45 (47, 50, 54, 59, 63, 66, 68), 1sc in next st, 1sc in next 30 (33, 35, 37, 40, 43, 45, 47), 1ch and turn

R2 (WRONG SIDE):1sc in each st, including the armpit sts, until the end of the row. 1ch and turn.
*R3-R18: Rep. R2
*if you don’t want pockets, then you can repeat R2 until you will get to the desired length.

POCKETS

We will work the pockets section in 3 individual parts: left side pocket, back (or the stitches until the next pocket), and right side pocket.
We will begin with the left side pocket.
We will reset the rows count and we will count the rows for each part.
for easy work, use 2 sts marker and mark the left and right side pocket’s sts.
(18 sts for all sizes)
Always make the increase into the second or second to last st.

Left side Pocket
Continue from where your yarn is
R1:1sc in next 16sts, 2sc in next st, 1sc in last st. 1ch and turn
R2: 1sc in each st until the end of the row. 1ch and turn
R3: rep. R2
R4:1sc in first st, 2sc in next st, 1sc in each st until the end of the row.
R5, R6: Rep. R2
R7-R18: Rep. R1 to R6
R19 – R21: Rep R1 to R3
Fasten off.
Remaining sts until the next pocket
In this section, we need to add at the beginning and at the end of the row, the pocket sts. This extra sts will create the inside layer of the pocket.
Before rejoining yarn into the marked st, ch18
R1: starting with the marked st (or the next st after the pocket sts) work 1sc in each st until the end of the row. Ch19.
R2:start in the second ch-st
1sc in each st, until the end of the row. (including the ch-sts). 1ch and turn.
R3-R21: rep. R2.
Right side Pocket
Work the right side pocket following the same pattern as the left side pocket, but reverse.
Start in the stitch after the marker (18 sts until the edge)

R1:1sc in the first st, 2sc in next st, 1sc in each st until the end of the row.
R2: 1sc in each st until the end of the row. 1ch and turn
R3: rep. R2
R4:1sc in each of the following sts, except the last 2, 2sc in next st, 1sc in last st.
R5, R6: Rep. R2
R7-R18: Rep. R1 to R6
R19 – R21: Rep R1 to R3

Now, we finished the pockets section and we can continue with the body of the jacket.
The pocket section had 21 rows, which means we worked in total for the body until now 39 rows.
The next row will be on the wrong side.

Continuing the body
Continue from where your yarn is.
First 18 sts and last 18 sts, work the single crochet through both sides (pocket and the inside pocket layer).
R40: 1sc in each st until the end of the row. 1ch and turn.
R41-43: Rep. R40.
Fasten off.

SLEEVES
Rejoin yarn on one of the middle sts at the armpit.
Work the sleeves in the round.
Close each round with a slip stitch into the first sc.
Turn after each round to keep the same look of the stitch as the rest of the Jacket.
Dec. Row = sc2tog, 1sc in each st until you have 2 sts left, sc2tog.
Work the rows for the sleeves as follows:
Work 7 (7, 7, 7, 5, 5, 5, 4) rows without decreasing, followed by 1Dec Row.
Rep. these 8 (8, 8, 8, 6, 6, 6, 5) rows until you have 56 (56, 64*, 64, 60, 60, 66, 60) rows.
Continue with rows without decreasing until you will have in total 60 (60, 64*, 65, 65, 65, 67, 67) rows.
* For size L no extra rows are needed unless you want to add extra length to the sleeve.
Don’t fasten off, move to the Ribbing section

ZIPPER LINE EDGING
Before working on the neckline ribbing and the bottom hem ribbing. work the zipper line edging.
Rejoin yarn into the first bottom stitch (for the left side) or into the first top stitch (for the right side).
Start working on the wrong side.
Each single crochet side row = 1 stitch.
R1: 1ch, 1sc in the same st, 1sc until the end of the row. 1ch and turn.
R2: Rep. R1.
Depending on which side did you make last, continue from where your yarn is with the bottom or neckline edging following the pattern below.

RIBBING
ch11
R1: starting with the second st, 1ss in each of the next 10sts, 1ss in the next 2 sts of the edge, turn.
R2: 1ss blo in each st until you have 1st left, 1ss in the last st. 1ch and turn.
R3: 1ss in first st, 1ss blo in next 9sts, 1ss into the next 2sts of the edge, turn.
Rep. R2 and R3 until you finish all the edge stitches.
For the cuffs, work the ribbing right after finishing the sleeve. Join the ribbing edges with slip stitches.

SEWING THE ZIPPER
Make sure you have a split zipper that has at least the same length as the jacket.

If it’s bigger you can cut it at the proper length.
Before sewing the zipper, work a “case” on the wrong side of the jacket.
Rejoin yarn into the first st of the third row of the ribbing, grabbing only the front loop.
2ch and 1hdc into the same loop, continue with 1hdc into each st of the ribbing, only through the first loop.
Continue with working the hdc stitches between the 2 rows made for the zipper line edge.
Insert the hook around the stitches, from front to back, then from back to front, and make the hdc.
Work 1hdc around each stitch of the zipper line edge until you get to the second ribbing.
On the ribbing section, proceed as at the beginning.
Repeat the same with the other zipper line edge.
After having, the case use pins to set in place the zipper.
Then using a sewing needle and thread, stitch the zipper into the “case”.

POCKETS EDGING
Rejoin the yarn at one end of the pocket.
R1: 1ch, 1sc in the same st, 1sc in each side row. 1ch and turn.
R2: 1ss in the first st, 1ss blo in each of the following sts, 1ch and turn.
Rep. R2 until the edge has the desired width. (8 rows)
SURFACE SLIP STITCHES OUTLINES
Optional you can work a surface slip stitches outline in a contrasting color.
I made this next to the zipper line, around the neckline, and next to the edge of the pocket.
The one next to the zipper line and around the neckline is worked in one single piece.
Start into the first side row space after the bottom ribbing of the left side
Step1: with the working yarn in the back, insert the hook into the indicated stitch and pull out a loop.
Step 2: Insert the hook into the next space, pull out a loop and pass through the loop on your hook.
Repeat step 2 until you finish the outline.
Proceed the same with the pockets outlines.

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

And you finished!  I hope you will like this pattern and in the end this Varsity Jacket because I do and nothing is more rewarding than to see that you love what I make 😊

Until next time, Happy Crochet!

I made my first Bat Wings Sweater three years ago, and I wanted to make another one and give this pattern an update for so long. I am glad that I managed to make it finally.

At first, I thought it would be easier because I would need to follow my old pattern and update it with more sizes and maybe some more missing information in the first one.

But the reality was different. Many things changed in three years, including my tension. Even if I decided to use a smaller hook than the first sample, knowing that my tension is a bit looser, I realized that I am getting the gauge for stitches but not for rows.

So basically, I had to write this pattern from scratch, to do the math again and everything. But I am happy that I can share with you a new version.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

And because you asked for it, I included how to adjust the length and calculate side increases in this pattern! So I hope you will find this pattern exciting and make a Bat Wings Sweater because it is beginner-friendly and the result is beautiful. You will love it.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: DK weight yarn (Size 3, light)
• Crochet Hook:
o 4.5 mm crochet hook
• yarn needle for weave in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Batwings Sweater is versatile and can be worn with almost everything. It has an oversized fit with shorter sleeves, and it’s perfect to wear when the weather is not that cold and you need a light sweater to put on.

The design is simple. It is worked in one single piece; the back panel is worked continuing the front panel. Easy to assemble; fold the piece in half and stitch the sides.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Bat Wings Sweater Pattern is available in 8 sizes, from small to 5X Large.
The model is 168 cm tall and wears size Small.

Neckline a: 24 cm (24, 24, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26)
Sleeve length b: 41 cm (45, 47, 49,51, 53, 53, 54)
Cuff to cuff c: 107 cm (113, 117, 123, 125, 131, 131, 133)

Bust width d: 50 cm (55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85)

Sleeve width e: 10 cm (13, 13, 16, 16, 19, 19, 19)

*Length to the armhole f: 30 cm (30, 30, 30, 30, 30, 27, 26)
**Length g: 43 cm (46, 46, 49, 49, 52, 52, 52)

*Length to the armhole is smaller for sizes 4XL and 5XL because of the bigger width but smaller length.
** you will find in the pattern instructions on how to make the sweater longer.

How much yarn do you need?

I used:
*Scheepjes Stardust in color Orion (660)
Each ball has 100 grams and approximately 540 meters
This yarn is listed as a DK weight because of the Mohair in composition. But according to the length is more a fingering weight yarn

For each size, you will need:
3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) balls or
1350 (1570, 1620, 1790, 1840, 2000, 2000, 2030) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
Fdc – front post double crochet
Bdc – back post double crochet
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rows
** – repeated section.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

TENSION

Using a 4.5 mm crochet hook in the hdc stitch pattern
15 sts = 10 cm
14 rows = 10cm

STITCH PATTERN

The main stitch pattern used in this design is the half double crochet, except the bottom ribbing, which is worked in Front Post Double Crochet and Back Post Double Crochet.

PATTERN NOTES

Work the piece flat; turn after each row.
Work 2ch before starting a row 2ch does not count as first st.
Work the increases and decreases after the first st and before the last one.

*How to adjust the length:

There are 2 ways to adjust the length of the Batwings Sweater and make it longer.

1. work the extra rows you will need to add in length after the ribbing band and before increasing.

2. This method involves a bit of math but will help you have approximately the same shape for the sweater and not the straight section at the beginning as the first one.
Step 1: check below in the pattern the total number of added stitches (with increases) and the number of increasing rows (rows up to the armhole), according to your size.
Step 2: Calculate how many rows you will need to add to increase the length as desired. Sum up those rows to the number of rows up to the armhole that you find in the pattern.

Step 3: having the number of rows you will need up to the armhole and the number of sts that need to be added, you can calculate how to make the increases.

For example (size Small)
Added sts: 84
Rows to the armhole: 42
If I want to add 10 cm in length, this will mean 14 rows.
Total number of rows up to armhole: 42 + 14 =56
Sts to increase / row: 84 : 56 = 1.5
so we have 1 row – 1.5 sts, which means 2 rows – 3 sts.
We add 2sts/row in the regular pattern, one at the beginning and one at the end.
Because we need 3 sts at every 2 rows, you can make the pattern like this:
R1: 1Inc at the beginning, 1Inc at the end
R2: 1Inc at the beginning only
R3: 1Inc at the beginning (to increase on the other side)
and repeat these 3 rows.

Another pattern that will work (in this particular case)

3sts at every 2rows equals 6sts at every 4 rows.
R1 – R3: inc on both sides
R4: don’t increase at all

INSTRUCTIONS

The pattern is written in sections, but you will have to work in one single piece.

Numbers are written between brackets for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL.

RIBBING

Start: Ch 76 (86, 92, 100, 104, 112, 120, 128) sts
R1: 3ch, 1dc in the second st, 1dc in each st until the end of the row. 3ch and turn.
R2: *1Fdc in next st, 1Bdc in next. *rep. until the end of the row
R3 – R4: Rep. R2 (following the stitch post of the previous row)

Only for sizes 4XL and 5XL.
Work after the ribbing, 4 (6) rows in hdc without increasing.
After these rows, follow the pattern below.

FRONT PANEL

R1:ch2, 1hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st, 1hdc in each of the next sts, except the last 2sts, 2hdc in next st, 1hdc in last st.
Total sts: 78 (88, 94, 102, 106, 114, 122, 130)
Rep. R1 until you have in total 42 *rows
*on sizes 4XL and 5XL, you will have 42 rows counting the 4 (6) rows made after ribbing as well.
Total number of sts: 160 (170, 176, 184, 188, 196, 196, 200)
Number of added sts: 84 (84, 84, 84, 84, 84, 76, 72)

ARMHOLE

R43: ch2, 1hdc in each st until the end of the row.
Rep. R43 until you have in total 56 (60, 60, 64, 64, 69, 69, 69) rows, meaning 14 (18, 18, 22, 22, 27, 27, 27) rows for the armhole.

NECKLINE

Next row: 2ch, 1hdc in next 62 (67, 70, 74, 76, 79, 79, 81) sts, ch 36 (36, 36, 36, 36, 38, 38, 38) sts, skip 36 (36, 36, 36, 36, 38, 38, 38) sts, 1hdc in last 62 (67, 70, 74, 76, 79, 79, 81) sts

BACK PANEL

Back Panel is worked, continuing the front panel, reverse.

R1: 2ch, 1hdc in each st until the end of the row.
Rep, R1 until you have 14 (18, 18, 22, 22, 27, 27, 27) rows.

Next row: 2ch, 1hdc in first st, hdc2tog in next 2sts, 1hdc in next sts, except the last 3sts, hdc2tog, 1hdc in last st.
Total number of sts: 158 (168, 174, 182, 186, 194, 194, 198)
Rep. previous row until you have in total for the back panel only 56 (60, 60, 64, 64, 69, 65, 63) rows.
Total sts: 76 (86, 92, 100, 104, 112, 120, 128)

Only for sizes 4XL and 5XL
Work 4 (6) more rows without decreasing.

RIBBING

Rep. the ribbing pattern of the Front Panel

Fasten off.
You can let a long tail (1 – 1.5 meters) for stitching.

ASSEMBLING

Step 1: Fold the piece in half, front panel over the back panel
Step 2: stitch the side edges (from the cuff to the bottom or reverse)

TO FINISH

Weave in all loose ends and block to measurements

And done! Enjoy your new sweater 😉

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

 

Finally, I am going to share with you my newest design, Porto Sweater.

I say “Finally” because I have had this design in mind for so long, and I am so happy I managed to make one.

When Lang Yarns sent me this gorgeous Kimberley yarn to try it out, I knew that this was it! It was the perfect project to take with me on our vacation to Portugal. It was the first time we went there, and I was so in love that I decided to name my design “Porto Sweater.” It has so many nice memories in each stitch that I wanted to remember them when wearing this beautiful sweater.

Look how gorgeous is this yarn on the Portuguese Sand!!! 🙂

But let’s get back to work because this post is about sharing a crochet pattern with you and not my vacation experience.😁

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Worsted Weight yarn (Size 4, Medium)
o Cotton
o Cotton mix
• Crochet Hook:
o 6.5 mm crochet hook (I used Streamline Solar Flare By Furls)
o 4 mm crochet hook for edging (Odyssey Blue By Furls)
• yarn needle for weave in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Porto Sweater is the perfect design for transition into Fall. Is lightweight and with a beautiful drape and is easy to wear.
The sweater is worked in 4 panels, assembled at the end. The rows are worked vertically in double slip stitches to recreate the knitting look of the fisherman ribbing.

This Porto Sweater has a closer fit, with a positive ease of only 6 cm around Bust Circumference.

ILoveYarn20

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Porto Sweater Pattern is available in 8 sizes, from Small up to 5X Large.
The model is 168 cm tall and wears size Small.

Neckline* a: 22 cm (22, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22)
Bust width b: 47 cm (52, 57, 62, 67, 72, 77, 82)
Armpit Length c: 33 cm (33, 33, 33, 33, 33, 33, 33)
Sleeve length d: 42 cm (42, 44, 44, 45, 45, 46, 46)
Sleeve width e: 19 cm (22, 22, 25, 25, 28, 28, 28)
Length f: 52 cm (55, 55, 58, 58, 61, 61, 61)
*you can find in the pattern instructions on how to adjust the neckline width and depth.

How much yarn do you need?

I used:
Lang Yarns Kimberley in color Aqua (72)
Each ball has 50 grams and approximately 105 meters

For each size you will need:
9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 15, 16) balls or
860 (1000, 1080, 1240, 1320, 1480, 1570, 1630) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Dssblo – double slip stitch
Fhdc – foundation half double crochet
ss /ssblo- slip stitch /back loop only
ss2/3tog – 2/3 ss worked together
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rounds
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 6.5 mm crochet hook in the Dss stitch pattern
13 sts = 10 cm
11 rows = 10cm

PATTERN NOTES

Work all pieces flat; turn after each row.
Work 1ch before starting a row 1ch does not count as first st.
Work the first and last st in a row through both loops, not only the back loop.
If you want to adjust the length, start with more stitches; if you want to adjust the width, work more rows.

How to adjust the neckline:

  • Use the back panel as a reference
  • Measure the desired width of your neckline and see how many rows you will need; it is important to be an even number.
  • Calculate how many rows remain for shoulders.
  • measure your desired neckline depth and see how many sts do you need to
  • calculate how many rows do you have for the half of the neckline width
  • knowing how many sts you will need to decrease for the neckline (neckline depth) and how many rows you have in neckline half-width, you can calculate how many sts/rows you will need to decrease.
    decreases are made at every 2 rows

For example:
neckline half-width = 12 rows
neckline depth = 21 sts
6 decreases to make: 21/6 = 3.5 which I rounded at 3 decreases of 3 sts and 3 Dec of 4 sts.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

INSTRUCTIONS

numbers for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL are written between brackets; if not pattern applies for all sizes.

BACK PANEL

Start: ch68 (72, 72, 76, 76, 80, 80, 80) sts
R1: 1ch, 1dss in each st until the end of the row. 1ch and turn.
R2: 1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next sts except the last 1, 1dss in the last st. 1ch and turn
Rep. R2 until you have in total 52 (58, 64, 68, 74, 80, 86, 90) rows.
Fasten off.

FRONT PANEL

Follow the instructions in the PATTERN NOTES section in case you want to adjust the neckline.
The pattern is written per section (right shoulder, neckline, left shoulder), but work for the front panel in one single piece:
You can see below a chart which shows the decreases.

Right Shoulder
Start: ch68 (72, 72, 76, 76, 80, 80, 80) sts
R1: 1ch, 1dss in each st until the end of the row. 1ch and turn.
R2: 1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next sts except the last 1, 1dss in the last st. 1ch and turn
Rep. R2 until you have in total 14 (17, 20, 22, 25, 28, 31, 33) rows.
Neckline
R1:1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in next sts except the last 3, 1ch and turn.
R2: 1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next sts, 1dss in the last st.

R3: 1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in the next sts, except the last 4sts. 1ch and turn.
R4: Rep. R2
Rep R1 to R4 2 more times, up to R12

R13: 1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in next sts, 1dss in the last st, 1ch and turn
R14: rep. R13
R15: 1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in the next st until the end of the row, 4fhdc. 1ch and turn
R16: 1dss in first st, 1dssblo in next sts, 1dss in the last st.
R17:1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in next st until the end of the row, 3fhdc. 1ch and turn
R18: Rep.R16
Rep R15 to R18 2 more times up to R24.
Left shoulder
R1:1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next sts except the last 1, 1dss in the last st. 1ch and turn
*Rep. R1 until you have in total 14 (17, 20, 22, 25, 28, 31, 33) rows.
Fasten off
*you should have for the front panel the same number of rows as for the back panel

SLEEVES

Start: ch54 (54, 56, 56, 58, 58, 60, 60) sts
R1: 1ch, 1dss in each st until the end of the row. 1ch and turn.
R2: 1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next sts except the last 1, 1dss in the last st. 1ch and turn
Rep. R2 until you have in total 42 (48, 48, 56, 56, 62, 62, 62) rows.
Fasten off.

ASSEMBLING

Step 1: Lay front and back panel, facing the right side, shoulders next to shoulder, and stitch the shoulder’s stitches.
Step 2: Lay the sleeves facing the right side next to the armhole section of the back and front panel. Make sure that half number of sleeve’s rows are next to the back panel and the other half next to the front panel. Use st markers to mark the sts for the armhole that needs to be stitch with the sleeve, keeping your gauge proportion: 25 (28, 28, 33, 33, 37, 37, 37) sts on the front panel and the same number of the back panel. (counting from the shoulder seam)
Step 3: Fold the entire piece in half and stitch the side edges (from the cuff to the bottom or reverse)

EDGING

Neckline Edging

Use the 6.5 mm crochet hook only for the first row, then switch to a 4 mm crochet hook.
On the first row, work 1st (sc) into each side row.
Work in the round and turn after each round.
When working over the short rows (decreases and increases) to pass the “stairs”, work 1st into the side of the last st, and one into the next st (sc2tog).
Into the “valley” of the neckline you have 4 rows, equivalent with 4 sts; work these 4 sts 2 by 2 (sc2tog and sc2tog).

R1: using a 6.5 mm crochet hook
Rejoin yarn in middle back, 1ch, 1sc in the same st, 1sc in each of the next sts until the shoulder seam, 1sc into the next 3 sts, [sc2tog (1 leg into the side of the last st, and one into the next st), 1sc in next 3sts, sc2tog, 1sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog] 2 times, sc2tog, 1sc in next 4sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, 1sc in next 4sts, [sc2tog, 1sc in next 2sts, sc2tog, 1sc in next 3sts] 2 times, sc2tog, 1sc in next 2sts, 1sc in the rest of the sts until the end of the round. Close the round with an ss into the first sc.

R2: Switch to a 4 mm crochet hook
1ch, [1ssblo in next st, 2ssblo in next st] until the shoulder seam, 2ssblo in each st until the “valley”, ssblo2tog, 2ssblo in each st until the shoulder seam, [1ssblo in next st, 2ssblo in next st] until the end of the round. Close the round with ss into the first ch. 1ch and turn

R3: 1ssblo in each st until you have 1 st left before the “ valley” decrease, ssblo3tog, 1ssblo in each st until the end of the round. Close the round with an ss into the first ch and turn.

Rep. R3 until the neckline edging has the desired width or until you have 9 rounds.

Sleeves and Bottom Edging

Use 4mm crochet hook.
Work 1st into each side row for the first row.
Work in rounds; turn after each round.
R1: 1ch, 1sc in each st around, ss with the first sc. 1ch, turn
R2: 1ssblo in each st around, ss with the first ch. 1ch and turn.

Rep. R2 until you have desired width or until you have 7 rows in total.

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

And that was it with this Porto Sweater. I hope you like it and can’t wait to see yours. 😊

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here: