Author

Bykaterina

Browsing

Soon after finishing the Sunset Sweater, I knew that I have to make a mini version for my daughter and before even started I had all the math done for this cute Happy Clouds Sweater. This because the pattern is easy to customize if you have all the measurements. That is why I included in both patterns, how to measure and what to measure to make these sweaters in the exact needed size.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

The idea of adding those appliques came while I was working on the sweater. It felt like it needed something to make it happier and my daughter to like it and actually wear it. 🙂

I love this sweater so much and she loves it too and she couldn’t wait to wear it at school and show to her colleagues what mummy made for her. I am so happy when she is so proud of what I am making.

So, if you want a bit of happiness in your life and in your daughter wardrobe, let’s see what you will need and how you can make this sweater.

 MATERIALS

  • Yarn
    • Category 3 ( Light weight, DK)
  • Crochet Hook
    • 4 mm
  • You will need a yarn needle for assembling and to wave in ends
  • Scissors
  • 1 stitch marker
  • Fingering weight yarn cotton in light blue, white, orange and yellow (optional for apliques)
    • 3 mm crochet hook

 

ABOUT DESIGN

The Happy Clouds Sweater uses techniques like half double crochet, single crochet worked in the back loop only for ribbing, increasing and decreasing

Skill Level required is beginner. You don’t need any experienced skills to make this sweater, only a lot of patience.

This Happy Clouds Sweater is worked from cuff to cuff working the back and front panels at ones. When we are getting to the neck line, we split the number of stitches in half and work the 2 panels individual. Then we are joining again and working the other half of the sweater.

 

The pattern is available in 5 sizes, from 2y to 10 y old and is written in US terms

MEASUREMENTS

Final measurements of the sweater are listed below.

Neck Line a: 13 cm (14, 16, 18, 18)

Bust width: 26.5 cm (29, 32, 33.5, 35.5)

Sleeve length c: 21 cm (26, 28.5, 31, 34)

Length d: 27.5 cm (30, 32.5, 37.5, 41.5)

This measurements will fit:

To Fit cm 2y 4y 6y 8y 10y
Bust

Circ.

53 58.5 63.5 67 71

 

How much yarn do you need?

For the Happy Clouds Sweater, I used Coconut Six from Kokonki Yarn, which is a blend of Cotton, and Acrylic. Each cake has 100 grams and approximate 250 meters

For each size you will approximate need:

Coconut Six 2Y 4Y 6Y 8Y 10Y
100g/250 m 2 2 3 3 3

 

STITCH PATTERN

The Happy Clouds Sweater is worked entirely in half double crochet except the cuffs and bottom hem ribbing. Those are worked in single crochet in the back loop only

ABBREVIATIONS

  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Sc blo – single crochet in the back loop only
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Inc – Increase: 2 hdc in the same st
  • Dec – Decrease: yarn over, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over pullout a loop, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull it through all loops on your hook
  • R| – row
  • * – repeated section

TENSION

  • 17 hdc = 10 cm
  • 14 hdc rows = 10 cm
  • 22 sc blo = 10 cm
  • 16 sc blo rows = 10 cm

*the tension is measured before blockimg

How to measure and adjust the pattern in case you need/want it.

I added this part to the pattern, because not all the kids are the same and measurements might be different even if they have same age

Scroll down for the pattern in case you want to skip this part.

Before to start any measurements, you have to make a swatch. Work a few stitches and rows, a square of about 10/10 cm.

This sweater is worked from cuff to cuff.

 

Here is a diagram with all the sections of the sweater:

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Measure your cuff to cuff length, or measure the neck to cuff and multiply by 2.

This length that you have includes the sleeves length and bust width.

Because we are increasing from the cuff, the bust circumference of the sweater will be wide enough to fit, but we have to make sure that the hem of the sweater will be wide enough to fit our bust when dressed.

Then from the cuff to cuff length, you have to decrease the bust or waist width; Divide by 2 and this will be the length of the sleeve.

To put all in a math formula:

Sleeve length = (cuff to cuff length – bust or waist width)/2

Now measure your cuff circumference. Having the swatch you will know with how many sts to start.

Work the elastic ribbing for the cuff, in single crochet stitches in the back loop only. The first row of the sleeve will be worked in the side rows and then start increasing at the beginning and at the end of the row. Keep increasing until you have the sleeve length (from the formula above)

Fold the piece in half, horizontally, and measure from top to bottom. This is your sweater length. To add extra length you will have to add some stitches on each side. On the sample I added only the ribbing sts, but in case you need extra length you can add a few sts more.

You will see how to add extra length in the pattern, because some sizes will need adjustment on the length. You can do this by adding more extra stitches when starting to work on the body, or by increasing with 4 stitches per row, instead of 2 for the last few rows of the sleeve.

After adding the extra sts, you will start working on the body of the sweater. First you will work the shoulder. To know how many rows to work on each shoulder you have to calculate how many rows you will need for the neck line. Subtract this number from the total number of rows needed for the bust width and divide the result by 2. The result will be the number of rows you will have to work for the shoulder, before splitting for neck line.

To make the neck line hole, you will have to work the front panel and back panel separately.

After working separately the back and front to create the neck hole, you will have to work in the mirror, what you made before.

After neck hole, join and work the same number of rows you made for the shoulder. Then decrease the number of sts you made for ribbing and start decrease with 1 st at the beginning and at the end of the row to work the other sleeve. When you have worked the same number of rows as for the other sleeve and you have the same number of sts as you start with, start working the ribbing cuff.

Fold the piece horizontally and sew the sides.

PATTERN NOTES

Ch 2 at the beginning of the row does not count as first hdc

Increases are made in second and second to last st. Each row starts and ends with a hdc.

Decreases are made in second and third st and third and second to last st. The same as increasing rows, when decreasing, each row starts and ends with a hdc.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

INSTRUCTIONS

Numbers for sizes 4Y, 6Y, 8Y and 10Y are written between brackets. If not, pattern applies for all sizes

Cuff

Start| ch 11

R1| start with 2nd st, 1 sc in each st to the end of the row. Ch 1 and turn

R2| 1 sc blo in each st to the end of the row

Repeat R2 until you have 24 (26, 28, 30, 30) rows

 

1st SLEEVE

R1| work in the side rows sc. Each side row sc represents 1 st

Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn.

R2| 1 hdc in 1st st, 1 inc in next st, 1 hdc in each of the next sts except the last 2 st, 1 Inc, 1 hdc in the last st. Ch 2 and turn.

Size 4Y, 6Y

Repeat R2 until you have in total 30 (34)  rows.

Size 2Y, 8Y, 10Y

For this sizes the last few rows will be made by increasing with 4 sts/row instead of 2.

This double increase will be made in the second and 3rd st and in the 3rd and 2nd to last st, by making 2 hdc in the same st.

Repeat R2 until you have in total 19 (33, 34) rows

The next 4 (4, 7) rows are worked with double increase.

You will have in total for the sleeve 23 (37, 41) rows

After finishing the sleeve you will have in total 70 (86, 96, 104, 112) sts

Cut the yarn.

BODY

1st Shoulder

R1| ch 10 on the hook (the ribbing sts), 1 hdc in each st to the end of the row ch 11 and turn.

R2| Starting with the 2nd st, 1 sc in next 10 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next sts, except the last 10 ch sts, 1 sc in each of the last 10 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

R3| 1 sc blo in 1st 10 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next sts, exept the last 10, 1 sc blo in the last 10 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

Repeat R3 until you have in total for the shoulder

 9 (10, 11, 11, 13) rows.

Neck line

For all sizes

Divide the total number of sts by 2, and place a stitch marker in the middle stitch.

Front panel

R1|1 sc blo in first 10 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next sts, until you have 2 sts left to the stitch marker. Ch 2 and turn.

R2| 1 hdc in each st except the last 10, 1 sc blo in the last 10 sts.

R3| 1 sc blo in the first 10 sts, 1 hdc in each st to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn.

Repeat R2 and R3 until you have in total for the neck line 17 (19, 21, 23, 23) rows

Back panel

Rejoin yarn in the marked stitch

R1| ch 2, 1 hdc in each st, except the last 10, 1 sc blo in the last 10 sts.

R2| 1 sc blo in the first 10 sts, 1 hdc in each st to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn

R3| 1 hdc in each st, except the last 10, 1 sc blo in the last 10 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

Repeat R2 and R3 until you have in total for the neck line 17 (19, 21, 23, 23) rows

 

2nd Shoulder

R1| 1 sc blo in the 1st 10 sts, 1 hdc in each st to the last st of the front panel, ch 2, 1 hdc in the first st of the front panel, 1 hdc in each of the next sts, except the last 10, 1 sc blo in the last 10 sts, ch 1 and turn.

R2| 1 sc blo in the first 10 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next st (including the ch sts), except the last 10, 1 sc blo in the last 10 sts.

Repeat R2 until you have in total for the second shoulder 8 (9, 10, 10, 12) rows.

Next row (last BODY row)

Slip 11 sts, until you are on the top of the first hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc in each of the next sts, except the last 10 sts. Ch 2 and turn.

2nd SLEEVE

R1| 1 hdc in 1st st, 1 dec, 1 hdc in each of the next sts, except the last 3, 1 dec, 1 hdc in the last st. ch 2 and turn.

Size 4Y, 6Y

Repeat R2 until you have in total 30 (34)  rows.

Size 2Y, 8Y, 10Y

For this sizes the last few rows will be made by decreasing with 4 sts/row instead of 2.

This double increase will be made in the next 4 sts after the first st, and in the last 4 sts before the last one.

Repeat R2 until you have in total 19 (33, 34) rows

The next 4 (4, 7) rows are worked with double decrease.

Next row (last row of the sleeve)

1 hdc in each st to the end of the row.

At the end of this row you should have the same number of sts as you had when you start working on the other sleeve.

CUFF

Start| ch 11

R1| starting with the 2nd st, 1 sc in each sts (25 sc), sl st with 1st 2 sts from the sleeve’s hem. Turn

R2| 1 sc blo in each st to the end of the row. Ch 1 and turn.

R3| 1 sc blo in each st to the end of the row, sl st with next 2 sts of the sleeve’s hem.

Repeat R2 and R3 until you complete the entire sleeve width.

Fasten off

ASSEMBLING

Fold the piece in half horizontally and stitch the edges, start from the bottom hem and finish with the cuff.

If you are more of a visual maker, tou can find a video tutorial here

 

APPLIQUES

CLOUDS

The appliques are made using fingering cotton yarn and 3 mm crochet hook.

For the clouds I used light blue and white. You will need less than 10 grams of yarn. The pattern is not mine, it belongs to MummaJ Crochet and you can find the original pattern here.

Start| ch 9

R1| starting with the 2nd st, 1 sc in the next 7 sts, 3 sc in the last st, turn and work on the other side of the chain, 1 sc in the next 7 sts, 5 dc in the last st, ss with first sc.

R2| 10 tr in the next st, skip 2 sts, ss to the next 2 sts, skip 1 st, 8 dc in the next st, ss to the last st.

Cut the yarn and hide the ends.

SUN

Start with the Orange Color

Start| make a magic ring

R1| ch 1, 5 sc inside the ring. Join with a ss with first sc.

R2| ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join with a ss with 1st sc. (10 sc)

R3| ch 1, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next. *Repeat 5 time to the end of the round. Join with a ss with 1st sc (15 sc)

R4| ch 1, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts. *Repeat 5 times to the end of the round. Join with a ss with 1st sc. (20 sc)

R5| ch 1, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts. *Repeat 5 times to the end of the round. Join with a ss with 1st sc. (25 sc)

Triangles (using yellow)

Triangle

R1| ch 1, 1 sc in next 5 sts, ch 1 and turn.

R2| sc2tog, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 1 and turn

R3| sc2tog, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 1 and turn

R4| sc2tog, 1 sc in next ts, ch 1 and turn

R5| sc2tog

Ss in each side row sc, on the side of triangle to get to the base round.

Repeat the pattern for the triangle all around. You will have 5 triangles in total. You will end the round of triangles in the top of last triangle. You don’t have to make the ss.

Hide the ends

TO FINISH

Wave all ends and block to measurements.

Sew the appliques on the sweater in desired spot.

*I recommend to sew the appliques after blocking.

Here you can find video tutorials for the sweater and for the appliques. If you watch the video for the sun, make sure you are making just 5 rounds on the main circle and just the first round of triangles.

Youtube Happy Clouds Sweater

Youtube Clouds

Youtube SUN

I really Hope you like this pattern and you will make it with joy for your lovely princesses in your life.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

 

 

It’s time to share with you another Tunisian Crochet Pattern! This Blue Moon Jumper it’s super soft and comfortable and perfect for the cold, lazy days that are about to come. It’s worked up pretty quick and the pattern is only one row repeat. 

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

I discovered Tunisian Crochet long time ago, but I didn’t actually designed something using this technique until the Tunisian Raglan Blouse 

I love Tunisian Crochet, because I kind of see it like a bridge between crochet and knitting.  If think you are not a faster knitter and that’s why you avoid knitting even if you would love to knit something, then you can make something in Tunisian Crochet. You can use your crocheter skills, but you will also learn a lot of knitting rules, even if you don’t realize them.

I like to think about myself as a designer, that I am an experienced crocheter :), but I love to experiment other fields where you can use yarn. For me a Tunisian Crochet or Knitting project, is like taking a break, mentally and physically. Mentally because I am using simple patterns and physically because my hands are moving differently  and I have a different posture when I knit or Tunisian Crochet.

I don’t know if I convinced you to try it, but let’s see what we will need and how you can make the Blue Moon Jumper.

MATERIALS

 

  • Yarn
    • Category 4 ( worsted, aran)
  • Needles
    • 8 mm Tunisian Crochet Hook with cable of 60
    • 6 mm Crochet Hook for ribbing
  • You will need a yarn needle for wave in ends and assembling
  • Scissors
  • stitch markers

 

PATTERN NOTES

This Blue Moon Jumper pattern uses both Tunisian and traditional crochet. We will use traditional crochet only for ribbing, the rest of the sweater is worked just in a variation of Tunisian knit Stitch, Tunisian crochet color changing

This pattern requires techniques as Tunisian knit stitch, slip stitch worked in the back loop only

The jumper construction is from 4 panels, back, front and sleeves. The front panel has a V neck line and the sleeves are worked by picking up stitches from the arm-holes edges.

I used 2 colors for this sweater, but it can be made in one single color also

The length to the armpit is the same for all sizes. In case you want adjust length, work more or fewer rows to the armpit.

This sweater has an oversized fit with a positive ease of about 24 cm around the bust circumference.

The written instructions below are only for the forward row (forward Pass). The turning row (return pass) will be always worked the same (see the STITCH PATTERN section.)

All the forward rows are ending by working the edge stitch.

 

MEASUREMENTS

The pattern is available in 8 sizes, from Small to 5 X Large and is written in US terms

Final measurements of the sweater are listed below.

Neck Line a: 27 cm (27, 27, 27, 27, 27, 27, 27)

Bust Width b: 55 cm (60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90)

Length to armpit c: 40 cm (40, 40, 40, 40, 40, 40, 40)

Armhole Depth d: 20 cm (23, 23, 26, 26, 29, 29, 29)

Sleeve length e: 43 cm (43, 45, 45, 46, 46, 47, 47)

 

 

 

This measurements will fit:

To Fit cm S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL 5XL
Bust

width

43 48 53 58 63 68 73 78

 

 

How much yarn do you need?

For the Blue Moon Jumper I used Kartopu Melange Wool, in color Denim and Baby Blue. Each skein of yarn has 100 grams and approximate 170 meters. It’s a mix of Acrylic, Wool and Viscose.

For each size you will approximate need:

Kartopu Melange WOOL S M L XL XXL 3XL 4XL 5XL
100 gr/170 m 6 6 7 8 8 9 10 10
Denim 3 3 3 4 4 4 5 5
Baby Blue 3 3 4 4 4 5 5 5

 

 

STITCH PATTERN

The Blue Moon Jumper is worked in a variation of Tunisian Knit Stitch

Row 1 1tks, YO skip 1 st (1 space). Finish the row working the edge stitch

What do you need to know?

Tunisian Knit Stitch

Insert the hook from front to back through the fabric, between the two halves of the vertical loop, yarn over, and pull up a loop 

Turning row (Ret P)

Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first loop only. *yarn over and pull the yarn through 2 loops. *Repeat to the end of the row.

Bind off

Insert the hook into the next st, YO, pull out a loop, pull the new loop through the loop on your hook

Decrease (used only to shape the neckline)

To make the decrease 2 stitches are worked together. Considering the stitch pattern, there are 2 different decreases.

Dec 1: Working together a chain space and a Tunisian Knit Stitch.

Version 1

Insert the hook into the chain space, and then into the next stitch, yarn over and pull out a loop through both sts.

Version 2

Skip the space without Yarn over.

Dec 2: Working Together 2 Tunisian Knit stitches.

Insert the hook, through both sts, yarn over and pull out a loop.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

ABBREVIATIONS

  • Ch – chain
  • Ss – slip stitch
  • Tks – Tunisian knit stitch
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • YO – yarn over
  • RetP – return pass
  • Sp – space
  • Dec – Decrease: 2 sts worked together
  • R| – row
  • ** – Repeated section

TENSION

  • 11 sts = 10 cm [ (1Tks, 1sp)x 5 + 1 Tks)
  • 10 rows = 10 cm

*in the stitch pattern used

INSTRUCTIONS

Numbers for sizes M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL and 5 XL are written between brackets. If not the pattern applies for all sizes.

FRONT PANEL

If you want to adjust the length, you can work more or fewer rows on this section.

Using Color Denim

Start| ch 60 (66, 72, 76, 82, 88, 94, 98)

R1| Foundation row:

Starting with the second chain, insert the hook into the next st and pull out a loop to the end of the row, Ret P.

R2| *1 Tks, YO, skip the next st. *Repeat to the end of the row. Finish the row working the edge stitch. Ret P.

R3| *1Tks, YO, skip 1 sp. * Repeat to the end of the row, Ret P.

Repeat R3 until you have 40 rows in total. *change the color at the end of the R40 turning row. When you have 2 loops on the hook, cut the yarn, make a slip knot with the other color you will want to use and pull the loop through the last 2 loops that you have on the hook.

In color Baby Blue

Repeat R3 working with the other color 4 (7, 7, 10, 10, 13, 13, 13) more rows or until you have in total 44 (47, 47, 50, 50, 53, 53, 53) rows in total.

Neck line

Use a stitch marker to mark the middle of the front panel. You should have on either side of the stitch marker 30 (33, 36, 38, 41, 44, 47, 49) sts.

Next Row

Work the Stitch Pattern to the stitch marker. You have 30 (33, 36, 38, 41, 44, 47, 49) loops on your hook. Place the st marker on the hook and continue to work the Stitch Pattern to the end of the row.

For the Ret P, work only the sts to the st marker, 30 (33, 36, 38, 41, 44, 47, 49)

Neck Line A (left side)

R1 1 Tks in the next 3 sts, ( in the space inset the hook into the ch and pull out a loop), 1 Dec 1 (see the STITCH PATTERN section), YO, skip the next space, *1Tks in the next st, YO, skip the next space. *Repeat to the end of the row. Ret P

R2 1 Tks in the next 3 sts, ( in the space inset the hook into the ch and pull out a loop), 1 Dec 2 (see the STITCH PATTERN section), YO, skip the next space, *1Tks in the next st, YO, skip the next space. *Repeat to the end of the row. Ret P

R3 – R15 Repeat R1 and R2.

You will decrease with 1 st per row. So after 15 rows you will have 15 (18, 21, 23, 26, 29, 32, 34) sts.

Bind off.

Neck line B ( Right side)

On the right side the decreases are made at the end of the row, before the neck line border sts.

We will start with the Ret P.

Rejoin yarn and make the Ret P

Use a stitch marker to mark the last 4 sts ( 3 sts + the edge st). The decrease will be made in the 2 sts before these 4.

R1 *1 Tks, yo, skip 1 sp. *Repeat until you have 6 sts left (including the edge st), 1 Dec1, 1 tks into the next 3 sts and finish the row with the edge st. Ret P

R2 *1 Tks, yo, skip 1 sp. *Repeat until you have 6 sts left (including the edge st), 1 Dec2, 1 tks into the next 3 sts and finish the row with the edge st. Ret P

R3 – R15 Repeat R1 and R2.

You will decrease with 1 st per row. So after 15 rows you will have 15 (18, 21, 23, 26, 29, 32, 34) sts.

Bind off.

BACK PANEL

Repeat the same pattern as for the FRONT PANEL, for the length to the armpit. Change the color and then work using the second color, in the same stitch pattern, 20 (23, 23, 26, 26, 29, 29, 29) rows.

Bind off.

Before stating to work the sleeves, stitch the shoulders stitches.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

SLEEVES (in Baby Blue Color)

The sleeves are worked starting from the armhole depth. The width of the sleeve will be equal with the number of rows worked with the second color or 20 (23, 23, 26, 26, 29, 29, 29) rows on either side of the shoulder seam.

Before starting to pick up stitches from the armhole edge you have to verify your gauge.

In this case, we have 11 sts and 10 rows per 10 cm square. This means that for every 10 rows we will need 11 sts to have the same measurement.

More exactly, in every 10th  side row, you have to pick up 2 sts.

*on size Small you can pick one st per row, but on bigger sizes, because the width is bigger, is better to follow the proportion sts/rows as explained above.

R1 Foundation row (Picking up sts)

Insert the hook into the *(1st st and pull out a loop ) x 9, (Insert the hook into the next st and pull out a loop) – repeat one more time into the same st.

*Repeat until you finish all the stitches. Ret P

R2| *1 Tks, YO, skip the next st. *Repeat to the end of the row. Finish the row working the edge stitch. Ret P.

R3| *1Tks, YO, skip 1 sp. * Repeat to the end of the row, Ret P.

Repeat R3 until you have 38 (38, 40, 40, 41, 41, 42, 42) rows in total.

Bind off.

Repeat the pattern for the other sleeve.

RIBBING

In the ribbing pattern are worked the cuffs and the bottom hem. All ribbing edges can be worked before or after assembling.

For the Ribbing it’s used regular crochet and a 6 mm crochet hook.

Use color Denim

Start| rejoin yarn in the first right st, facing the right side of the work. Ch 9

R1| Starting with the 2nd st, 1 ss into each of the next 8 sts, 2 ss into the next 2 sts of the sweater edge (sleeves or bottom hem). Turn

R2| 1 ss into the back loop only in each st. Ch 1 and turn.

R3| 1 ss in the back loop only, into each of the 8 sts. 1 ss in the next 2 sts of the sweater edge. Turn.

Repeat R2 and R3 until you complete the entire width.

Fasten off.

Repeat the pattern for both sleeves and bottom hem.

ASSEMBLING

Fold the piece you have in half and stitch together the edges, starting from the cuff and finishing with the bottom hem

TO FINISH

Wave in all ends and block to measurements.

And done! you have now a new sweater to be proud of!

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

You can find a step by step video tutorial here

Well, well, well the Sunset Sweater is finally here! 

This sweater is the crocheted version of Sunshine Sweater which I designed this spring. Many of you requested a crocheted version and I couldn’t made it back then, but I am happy that I can share it with you now!

The design of these sweaters is inspired by one of my favorite sweaters I ever bought. It was my go to sweater and I loved it so much. Back then when I bought the sweater I couldn’t realize that I will be able to knit and crochet one and now I am happy that I have 2 favorite sweaters to wear 😁

What I love the most is that you can wear the Sunset Sweater with so many things! I just paired it with a pair of jeans from Zaful, but it can be worn with other type of pants or a skirt, whatever you will feel in the mood to wear.

I really hope you will love it as much as I do and you will make it. In case you unsecure about trying this design, be sure that you can count on my full support.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

You can now have the PDF version with 20% Discount or even for FREE if you want to support ByKaterina on Patreon

Become a Patron!

I know that you are excited to see how the Sunset Sweater is made and what you will need to make it, so I won’t talk to much about and just let’s see what is all about.

MATERIALS

  • Yarn
    • Category 3 ( Light weight, DK)
  • Crochet Hook
    • 4 mm
  • You will need a yarn needle for assembling and to wave in ends
  • Scissors

 

ABOUT DESIGN

The Sunset Sweater uses techniques like half double crochet, single crochet worked in the back loop only for ribbing, increasing and decreasing

Skill Level required is beginner. You don’t need any experienced skills to make this sweater, only a lot of patience.

This Sunset Sweater is worked from cuff to cuff working the back and front panels at ones. When we are getting to the neck line, we split the number of stitches in half and work the 2 panels individual. Then we are joining again and working the other half of the sweater.

The pattern is available in 8 sizes, from Small to 5 X Large and is written in US terms

MEASUREMENTS

Final measurements of the sweater are listed below.

Neck Line a: 25 cm (25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25, 25)

Bust width: 46 cm (51, 56, 61, 66, 71, 76, 81)

Sleeve length c: 55 cm (55, 57, 57, 58, 58, 59, 59)

Length d: 56 cm (58, 60, 61, 64, 64, 67, 68)

This measurements will fit:

To Fit cm S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL 5XL
Bust

Width

43 48 53 58 63 68 73 78

 

How much yarn do you need?

For the Sunset Sweater, I used Concept Yoga by Katia Yarns which is a blend of Cotton, Extra Fine Merino and Polyamide. Each ball has 50 grams and approximate 200 meters

For each size you will approximate need:

Concept Yoga S M L XL XXL 3XL 4XL 5XL
50 g/200 m 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 17

 

STITCH PATTERN

The Sunset sweater is worked entirely in half double crochet except the cuffs and bottom hem ribbing. Those are worked in single crochet in the back loop only

ABBREVIATIONS

  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Sc blo – single crochet in the back loop only
  • Hdc – half double crochet
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Inc – Increase: 2 hdc in the same st
  • Dec – Decrease: yarn over, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over pullout a loop, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull it through all loops on your hook
  • R| – row
  • * – repeated section

TENSION

  • 16 hdc = 10 cm
  • 15 hdc rows = 10 cm
  • 21 sc blo = 10 cm
  • 18 sc blo rows = 10 cm

*the tension is measured after blocking

How to measure and adjust the pattern in case you need/want it.

I added this part to the pattern, because not all of us has standard measurements and I want to help you customize this sweater to your own body.

Scroll down for the pattern in case you want to skip this part.

Before to start any measurements, you have to make a swatch. Work a few stitches and rows, a square of about 10/10 cm.

This sweater is worked from cuff to cuff.

Here is a diagram with all the sections of the sweater:

Measure your cuff to cuff length, or measure the neck to cuff and multiply by 2.

This length that you have includes the sleeves length and bust width.

Because we are increasing from the cuff, the bust circumference of the sweater will be wide enough to fit, but we have to make sure that the hem of the sweater will be wide enough to fit our bust when dressed.

The sweater is designed with the bottom having the standard bust width for each size with a positive ease of 6 cm.

To adjust this in case you need that the bottom of the sweater to be wider, measure your bigger part of your body, bust or waist.

Then from the cuff to cuff length, you have to decrease the bust or waist width; Divide by 2 and this will be the length of the sleeve.

To put all in a math formula:

Sleeve length = (cuff to cuff length – bust or waist width)/2

Now measure your cuff circumference. Having the swatch you will know with how many sts to start.

Work the elastic ribbing for the cuff, in single crochet stitches in the back loop only. The first row of the sleeve will be worked in the side rows and then start increasing at the beginning and at the end of the row. Keep increasing until you have the sleeve length (from the formula above)

Fold the piece in half, horizontally, and measure from top to bottom. This is your sweater length. To add extra length you will have to add some stitches on each side. On the sample I added only the ribbing sts, but in case you need extra length you can add a few sts more.

After adding the extra sts, you will start working on the body of the sweater. First you will work the shoulder. To know how many rows to work on each shoulder you have to calculate how many rows you will need for the neck line. Subtract this number from the total number of rows needed for the bust width and divide the result by 2. The result will be the number of rows you will have to work for the shoulder, before splitting for neck line.

To make the neck line hole, you will have to work the front panel and back panel separately.

After working separately the back and front to create the neck hole, you will have to work in the mirror, what you made before.

After neck hole, join and work the same number of rows you made for the shoulder. Then decrease the number of sts you made for ribbing and start decrease with 1 st at the beginning and at the end of the row to work the other sleeve. When you have worked the same number of rows as for the other sleeve and you have the same number of sts as you start with, start working the ribbing cuff.

Fold the piece horizontally and sew the sides.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

You can now have the PDF version with 20% Discount or even for FREE if you want to support ByKaterina on Patreon

Become a Patron!

PATTERN NOTES

Ch 2 at the beginning of the row does not count as first hdc

Increases are made in second and second to last st. Each row starts and ends with a hdc.

Decreases are made in second and third st and third and second to last st. The same as increasing rows, when decreasing, each row starts and ends with a hdc.

INSTRUCTIONS

Numbers for sizes M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL and 5 XL are written between brackets. If not, pattern applies for all sizes

Cuff

Start| ch 26

R1| start with 2nd st, 1 sc in each st to the end of the row. Ch 1 and turn

R2| 1 sc blo in each st to the end of the row

Repeat R2 until you have 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 54, 58, 62) rows

1st SLEEVE

R1| work in the side rows sc. Each side row sc represents 1 st

Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn.

R2| 1 hdc in 1st st, 1 inc in next st, 1 hdc in each of the next sts except the last 2 st, 1 Inc, 1 hdc in the last st. Ch 2 and turn. (38 sts)

Repeat R2 until you have in total 64 (64, 66, 66, 68, 68, 69, 69) rows.

You will increase with 2 sts per row. After finishing the sleeve you will have in total 162 (166, 174, 178, 186, 188, 196, 200) sts

Cut the yarn.

BODY

1st Shoulder

R1| ch 10 on the hook (the ribbing sts), 1 hdc in each st to the end of the row ch 11 and turn.

R2| Starting with the 2nd st, 1 sc in next 10 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next sts, except the last 10 ch sts, 1 sc in each of the last 10 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

R3| 1 sc blo in 1st 10 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next sts, exept the last 10, 1 sc blo in the last 10 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

Repeat R3 until you have in total for the shoulder 16 (20, 24, 27, 31, 35, 39, 42) rows.

Neck line

For all sizes

Divide the total number of sts by 3, and place a stitch marker in the middle stitch.

Front panel

R1|1 sc blo in first 10 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next sts, until you have 3 sts left to the stitch marker. Ch 2 and turn.

R2| 1 hdc in each st except the last 10, 1 sc blo in the last 10 sts.

R3| 1 sc blo in the first 10 sts, 1 hdc in each st to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn.

R4 – R37| repeat R2 and R3

Back panel

Rejoin yarn in the marked stitch

R1| ch 2, 1 hdc in each st, except the last 10, 1 sc blo in the last 10 sts.

R2| 1 sc blo in the first 10 sts, 1 hdc in each st to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn

R3| 1 hdc in each st, except the last 10, 1 sc blo in the last 10 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

R4 – R37| repeat R2 and R3

2nd Shoulder

R1| 1 sc blo in the 1st 10 sts, 1 hdc in each st to the last st of the front panel, ch 3, 1 hdc in the first st of the front panel, 1 hdc in each of the next sts, except the last 10, 1 sc blo in the last 10 sts, ch 1 and turn.

R2| 1 sc blo in the first 10 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next st (including the ch sts), except the last 10, 1 sc blo in the last 10 sts.

Repeat R2 until you have in total for the second shoulder 15 (19, 23, 26, 30, 34, 38, 41) rows.

Next row (last BODY row)

Slip 11 sts, until you are on the top of the first hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc in each of the next sts, except the last 10 sts. Ch 2 and turn.

2nd SLEEVE

R1| 1 hdc in 1st st, 1 dec, 1 hdc in each of the next sts, except the last 3, 1 dec, 1 hdc in the last st. ch 2 and turn.

Repeat R1 until you have in total 63 (63, 65, 65, 67, 67, 68, 68) rows

Next row (last row of the sleeve)

1 hdc in each st to the end of the row.

CUFF

Start| ch 26

R1| starting with the 2nd st, 1 sc in each sts (25 sc), sl st with 1st 2 sts from the sleeve’s hem. Turn

R2| 1 sc blo in each st to the end of the row. Ch 1 and turn.

R3| 1 sc blo in each st to the end of the row, sl st with next 2 sts of the sleeve’s hem.

Repeat R2 and R3 until you complete the entire sleeve width.

Fasten off

ASSEMBLING

Fold the piece in half horizontally and stitch the edges, start from the bottom hem and finish with the cuff.

TO FINISH

Wave all ends and block to measurements.

And here is how you have made a modern and fashionable sweater 😀

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

You can now have the PDF version with 20% Discount or even for FREE if you want to support ByKaterina on Patreon

Become a Patron!

You can also find a video tutorial here