When I first started the Lace Meadow Tee, I envisioned it turning into something entirely different. I set it aside for a while to finish other projects. When I picked it up again, I needed a break from another project that wasn’t progressing as I’d hoped.

The second time I worked on the Lace Meadow Tee, it practically flew off my hook. Seeking simplicity, I decided to make it a T-shirt without overcomplicating things.

However, this design had its ups and downs. Initially, I wanted the front panel to be shorter than the back, but the result was unsatisfactory. So, I opted for equal lengths for both panels, adding slits on the sides.

In the end, I think it turned out pretty cute. The stitch pattern is beautiful and definitely worth making for summer!

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

Now, let’s see what we need to crochet this Lace Meadow T-shirt and how to make it.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size, DK weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 5 mm crochet hook
o 4.5 mm crochet hook for edging and collar (or even smaller depending on your tension)
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

This crocheted top is designed with a classic t-shirt shape, incorporating a modified drop-shoulder construction for an enhanced and comfortable fit. The back panel includes shoulder decreases to ensure a better contour to the body. The top boasts an oversized design, offering generous, positive ease of approximately 24 cm around the bust circumference for a relaxed and airy fit.

The Lace Meadow Tee features a beautiful lace crochet pattern that adds elegance and texture. Side slits contribute to ease of movement and style, while the intricate edging provides a polished finish. This combination of thoughtful design elements ensures comfort and aesthetic appeal, making this top a versatile and stylish addition to any wardrobe.

Final Measurements of the Lace Meadow Tee
Neck Width a: 20 cm (24, 20*, 24) (20*, 24, 28, 24*, 28)
Bust Circ. b: 104 cm (112, 120, 128), (136,144, 152,160, 168)
Armhole depth. c: 17 cm (17, 18, 19) (20, 21, 22, 23, 24)
Length e: 50 cm (50, 52, 52) (53, 53, 57, 59, 59)

*For these sizes, the neckline width is smaller due to the constraints of the stitch pattern. However, the overall neckline circumference will increase as you shape the front panel and lower the neckline

YARN

For the Lace Meadow Tee, I used D.M.C Eco Vita, in color Nature (003). Yarn composition:80% Cotton, 20% Other Fibers. Each ball has 100 grams and is approximately 250 meters.
For each size, you will approximately need:
620 (650, 710, 750) (810, 870, 1000, 1110, 1180) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
fpsc – front post sc
dc – double crochet
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – row
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 5 mm crochet hook in a lace stitch pattern

2pattern repeats = 8 cm
12 rows = 10 cm

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

Lace Stitch Pattern

The primary stitch pattern used in the Lace Meadow Tee is a lace design created by combining single crochet stitches, chains, and double crochet stitches. This pattern requires a stitch count that is a multiple of 8 plus 1.

Pattern (use it for the gauge swatch)

Chain a multiple of 8 plus 1 stitches
R1: ch6, 1sc in the 10th stitch from the hook, 1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next st, 3ch, skip the next 2sts, 1dc in next st, *3ch, skip the next 2sts, 1sc in next st, 1ch, skip the next st, 1sc in next st, 3ch, skip the next 2sts, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the end of the row, ch 1 and turn;

R2: 1sc into the first st, 3ch, 1dc in the next 1ch-sp, 3ch, 1sc into the ch-st before the dc, *1ch, skip 1dc, 1sc into the ch-st after the dc, 3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, 3ch, 1sc into the ch-st before the dc; *rep to the end of the row; finish the row with 1dc into the third ch; 6ch and turn;

R3: 1sc into the ch-st before the dc, 1ch, skip 1dc, 1sc into the ch-st after the dc, 3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, *3ch, 1sc into the ch-st before the dc, 1ch, skip 1dc, 1sc into the ch-st after the dc, 3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp; *rep. to the end of the row; finish the row with 1dc into the last sc, 1ch and turn;
Rep. R2 and R3 until you reach the desired length.

Front Post Single Crochet (used for edging)

We will work one row in front post single crochet for the edges. This will be the second and final row of the edge. These front-post single crochet stitches will cause the top loops of the stitches in the last row to lay on the surface, giving the edging a nice and polished look. This row will be worked on the wrong side.

Begin with a chain 1. Insert the hook from front to back into the first stitch, and then pull the hook out from back to front through the next stitch, working around the single crochet stitch of the previous row

Short Rows Back Panel

The back panel features shoulder shaping with short rows to ensure a better contour to the body. These short rows involve decreasing at both the beginning and the end of each row; every two rows, one pattern repeat will be decreased.

Alternatively, you can skip this shaping and create straight shoulders by working the same number of rows without any decreases across all stitches of the back panel.

INSTRUCTIONS

BACK PANEL

Start: ch 105 (113, 121, 129) (137, 145, 153, 161, 169)
R1: ch6, 1sc in the 10th stitch from the hook, 1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next st, 3ch, skip the next 2sts, 1dc in next st, *3ch, skip the next 2sts, 1sc in next st, 1ch, skip the next st, 1sc in next st, 3ch, skip the next 2sts, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the end of the row, ch 1 and turn;

R2: 1sc into the first st, 3ch, 1dc in the next 1ch-sp, 3ch, 1sc into the ch-st before the dc, *1ch, skip 1dc, 1sc into the ch-st after the dc, 3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, 3ch, 1sc into the ch-st before the dc; *rep to the end of the row; finish the row with 1dc into the third ch; 6ch and turn;

R3: 1sc into the ch-st before the dc, 1ch, skip 1dc, 1sc into the ch-st after the dc, 3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, *3ch, 1sc into the ch-st before the dc, 1ch, skip 1dc, 1sc into the ch-st after the dc, 3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp; *rep. to the end of the row; finish the row with 1dc into the last sc, 1ch and turn;
*Rep. R2 and R3 until you have 51 (51, 51, 51) (53, 53, 55, 55, 55) rows

*You can adjust the number of rows according to the desired length; keep an uneven number of rows;

Shaping the Shoulders (Short Rows)

The back panel features shoulder shaping with short rows to ensure a better contour to the body. These short rows involve decreasing at both the beginning and the end of each row; every two rows, one pattern repeat will be decreased.

Alternatively, you can skip this shaping and create straight shoulders by working the same number of rows without any decreases across all stitches of the back panel.

For sizes M, XL, and 4XL, the neckline width will have fewer pattern repeats due to the constraints of the stitch pattern. However, the overall neckline circumference will increase as you shape the front panel and lower the neckline. If you believe that working one less short row will provide a more desirable neckline width, you can adjust accordingly.

Short Row 1: 1ch (if you didn’t chain at the end of the last row), 1sc in the first st, 3ch, 1dc in the next 1ch-sp, 3ch, 1sc into the next dc, 3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, 3ch *1sc into the ch-st before the dc, 1ch, skip 1dc, 1sc into the ch-st after the dc, 3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, 3ch; rep. Until you have 1 pattern repeat left (your next st from the previous row is a dc), 1sc into the next dc, 3ch, 1dc into the 1ch-sp, 3ch, 1sc into the third ch; turn

Short Row 2: slip 9sts (until you are on top of the second sc in the row), ch6, 1sc into the ch-st before the dc, 1ch, skip 1dc, 1sc into the ch-st after the dc, 3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, *3ch, 1sc into the ch-st before the dc, 1ch, skip 1dc, 1sc into the ch-st after the dc, 3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp; *rep. to until you have one pattern repeat left (your last st will be the second to last sc); finish the row with 1dc into the second to last sc, 1ch and turn;

Rep. these 2 rows until you have 8 (8, 10, 10) (12, 12, 12, 14, 14) short rows; It will look like you have 4 (4, 5, 5) (6, 6, 6, 7, 7) stairs;

Fasten off;

Straighten the Shoulders

The shoulder edge may now appear uneven due to the short rows, resembling a stairway. To straighten the edge, we will work two rows: one in single crochet and one in front post single crochet. To bridge the gaps between the short rows and avoid holes, work two stitches together where needed, taking care not to increase the total number of stitches.

Right Shoulder

To bridge the gaps between the short rows, we will work two sets of “2 stitches together.” These stitches will be worked into the side row stitches. On the right shoulder, the side stitch is a ch3.

The first “2 stitches together” will have the first leg in the last stitch of the previous short row and the second leg in the first chain of the side ch3.
The second “2 stitches together” will have the first leg in the third chain of the side ch3 and the second leg in the first stitch of the next short row.

2 stitches together: Yarn over, insert the hook into the indicated stitch (the last stitch of the previous short row or the third chain of the side ch3). Then insert the hook into the next indicated stitch (the first chain of the side ch3 or the first stitch of the next short row). Yarn over and pull through all loops on your hook.

Rejoin yarn into the first stitch of the shoulder edge;
R1: 1ch, 1sc in next 7 sts, 2sts together twice (as indicated above), *1sc into the next 6sts, 2sts together twice; *rep. until you get on the top of the last side 3ch, next to the neck line; 1ch and turn;
R2: 1sc in the first st, 1fpsc in each st to the end of the row;

After finishing these 2 rows you should have: 33 (33, 41, 41) ( 49, 49, 49, 57, 57) stitches
Next, continue with the front panel. Work the rows adjacent to the neckline, only on the shoulder stitches.

Left Shoulder

You can work the left shoulder edge either after completing the right shoulder edge or after finishing the right front panel rows adjacent to the neckline, which are worked only into the shoulder stitches.

On this shoulder we will also work the two sets of “2 stitches together.” These stitches will be worked into the side row stitches. On the left shoulder, the side stitch is a dc.

The first “2 stitches together” will have the first leg in the last stitch of the previous short row and the second leg in the top of the side dc.
The second “2 stitches together” will have the first leg in the bottom of the side dc and the second leg in the first stitch of the next short row.

The left shoulder is worked as a mirror image of the right shoulder;
Rejoin yarn into the first st of the shoulder edge, right next to the neckline;
R1: ch1, *2sts together twice, 1sc into the next 6sts, *rep. until you get to the last bottom st of the shoulder edge; work 1last sc into that last st, 1ch and turn;
R2: 1sc in the first st, 1fpsc in each st to the end of the row;

After finishing these 2 rows you should have: 33 (33, 41, 41) ( 49, 49, 49, 57, 57) stitches
Next, continue with the front panel. Work the rows adjacent to the neckline, only on the shoulder stitches.

FRONT PANEL

First, we will work 4 rows solely into the shoulder stitches to lower the front neckline collar. These 4 rows will be worked separately on each shoulder immediately after finishing the shoulder edge.

For sizes M, XL, and 4XL, you can work 6 rows instead of 4 to provide more room for the collar, considering that the neckline width at the back has fewer pattern repeats compared to other sizes.

First row for these sections will be on the right side. If you didn.t start working these sections right after the shoulder edge, make sure you start on the right side of your work.

For the right shoulder, begin the row at the side edge of your project; for the left shoulder, begin next to the neckline.

R1: ch6, skip 2sts, 1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next st, 3ch, skip the next 2sts, 1dc in next st, *3ch, skip the next 2sts, 1sc in next st, 1ch, skip the next st, 1sc in next st, 3ch, skip the next 2sts, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the end of the row, ch 1 and turn;

R2: 1sc into the first st, 3ch, 1dc in the next 1ch-sp, 3ch, 1sc into the ch-st before the dc, *1ch, skip 1dc, 1sc into the ch-st after the dc, 3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, 3ch, 1sc into the ch-st before the dc; *rep to the end of the row; finish the row with 1dc into the third ch; 6ch and turn;

R3: 1sc into the ch-st before the dc, 1ch, skip 1dc, 1sc into the ch-st after the dc, 3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, *3ch, 1sc into the ch-st before the dc, 1ch, skip 1dc, 1sc into the ch-st after the dc, 3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp; *rep. to the end of the row; finish the row with 1dc into the last sc, 1ch and turn;
R4: Rep. R2

Fasten off (unless your second section is your right shoulder and you can continue from there)

Next, we will rejoin yarn at the first stitch of the right shoulder, work the shoulder stitches, chain the required number of stitches to complete the front panel, and then continue with the left shoulder stitches.

R5: work into the established pattern on top of the right shoulder stitches, then ch 39 (47, 39, 47) (39, 47, 55, 39, 55), and then continue into the established stitch pattern on top of the left shoulder stitches, 1ch and turn

*The sizes marked in red are M, XL, and 4XL, which have fewer stitches and pattern repeats on the neckline due to the constraints of the stitch pattern

R6: 1sc into the first st, 3ch, 1dc in the next 1ch-sp, 3ch, 1sc into the ch-st before the dc, *1ch, skip 1dc, 1sc into the ch-st after the dc, 3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, 3ch, 1sc into the ch-st before the dc; *rep until the chain sts start, *1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next st, continue into the established st pattern on top of the chain sts, until you have 1ch-st left, 1ch, skip the last ch-st and continue with the left shoulder sts;

Starting with R7, continue working into the established pattern until you will have 59 (59,61,61) (65, 65, 67, 69, 69) or until you have the same number of rows as for the back panel, counting from the neckline.

To finish the front panel, work one additional row as follows:

1ch, 1sc into the first st, *3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, 3ch, 1sc into the next dc; *rep to the end of the row;

BOTTOM PANELS EDGING

Work the same pattern for both panels;
For the edging you can use a smaller hook size
I used 4.5 mm and for the final row a 4mm.

R1: 1ch, 1sc in each st to the end of the row; 1ch and turn
R2: 1fpsc, into each st, 1sc into the last st; 1ch and turn
R3: 1sc into each st to the end of the row;

Fasten off

MARKING THE SLEEVE OPENING

To ensure that the Tee is even from the armpit to the bottom and that the sleeve stitches/side rows are correctly distributed across the front and back panels, follow these steps:

1. Align the Panels:

– Place the front panel and back panel one on top of the other;
– Ensure the bottom first stitch of the side edge of the front panel is directly on top of the bottom first stitch of the side edge of the back panel.
-Use a stitch marker to connect these two stitches to keep them aligned as you work.

2. Mark the Sleeve Width:

– Mark the desired width of the sleeve according to the measurements indicated in the pattern.

3. Count and Adjust Stitches:

– Count the side rows from the armpit to the bottom edge on both the front and back panels.
– Ensure you have the same number of side rows on both panels.
– as the back panel is worked bottom up and the front panel top-down, the side rows won’t match, meaning you won’t have dc side row next to 3ch side row, but you need to make sure you have the same number of side rows;
– if you prefer you can consider a dc or ch3 side row as 2sts and a sc crochet side row as 1st and count the edge from the armpit as stitches;

– Adjust accordingly to achieve symmetry.

Now that we have marked the sleeve, we can start joining the side edges.

If you prefer the Tee to have side slits, you can mark the number of rows you would like to leave open. I’ve marked 8 rows on each side for the slits. Double-check to ensure both sides are symmetrical from the armpit to the slit.

JOINING THE SIDE EDGES

To assemble the Tee, we need to join the side edges, starting from the bottom to the armpit, and

For this sample, I used slip stitches and chains to join the side edges of the shirt.

Because front and back panels are worked in opposite direction it might be confusing on how the side rows lays next to each other;

To make it easier and less confusing, follow these steps:

Think of the side rows as stitches: One double crochet (dc) or three-chain (3ch) side row will count as 2 stitches, while one single crochet (sc) side row will count as 1 stitch.

Use stitch markers: Using stitch markers will help you follow the stitches accurately. Place a stitch marker to indicate the stitch that you need to skip next. Use stitch markers on both the front and back panels.

Step 1: Reconnect the yarn into the first bottom stitch of the right panel and chain 2.

Step 2: Insert the hook into the first bottom stitch of the left panel, make a slip stitch, and chain 2.

Step 3: Skip the next stitch on the right panel, slip stitch into the following stitch, and chain 2.

Step 4: Skip the next stitch on the left panel, slip stitch into the following stitch, and chain 2.

Repeat Steps 3 and 4 until you have joined up to the armpit stitch marker.

Repeat the same process on the second side.

After you reach the armpit you can continue from there working on the sleeve edging

SLEEVE EDGING

You can switch to a 4.5 mm crochet hook.

– To work the sleeve edges, the stitches will be worked into the side rows of the armhole:
– Work 2 stitches into a double crochet (dc) or 3-chain (3ch) side row and 1 stitch into a single crochet (sc) side row.
– When working into a dc side row, make the first stitch into the bottom of the dc and the second stitch into the top of the dc.
– When working into a 3ch side row, make the first stitch into the first chain and the second stitch into the third chain.
– start working on the right side
– Turn after each round. If you prefer to work only on the right side, for the second row, you will need to work back post single crochet instead of front post single crochet.

R1: 1ch, 1sc in each stitch around; slip stitch into the first sc to close the round; 1ch and turn
R2: 1sc into the first stitch, 1fpsc around the following sts; slip stitch into the first sc; 1ch and turn
R3: 1sc in each stitch around; slip stitch to close the round and fasten off;

Repeat the same on the second sleeve;

SIDE SLITS EDGING

– To work the Side Slits edges, the stitches will be worked into the side rows of the side edge:
– Work 2 stitches into a double crochet (dc) or 3-chain (3ch) side row and 1 stitch into a single crochet (sc) side row.
– When working into a dc side row, make the first stitch into the bottom of the dc and the second stitch into the top of the dc.
– When working into a 3ch side row, make the first stitch into the first chain and the second stitch into the third chain.
– start working on the right side

R1: 1sc in each st to the end of the row; slip stitch into the side joining and turn
R2: 1fpsc in each st to the end of the row

On the other side of the slit you will reconnect the yarn into the side edges joining; then start the first row right into the first st of the side slit
Repeat the same 2 rows; at the end of the second row, slip stitch into the side edges joining and fasten off;

NECKLINE EDGING

First step before starting working on the actual collar is to straighten the back panel section of the neckline;

Work on the right side;
Reconnect the yarn into the first stitch of the back panel section of the neckline;

1ch, 1sc, *3ch, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, 3ch, 1sc in to the next dc; *rep until you complete this section;

Actual NECKLINE EDGING

Start from where you are with the yarn, after straightening the back panel section, without turning.
For the first round of the neckline edge, you will have to work across the front panels.

On those sections;
– Work 2 stitches into a double crochet (dc) or 3-chain (3ch) side row and 1 stitch into a single crochet (sc) side row.
– When working into a dc side row, make the first stitch into the bottom of the dc and the second stitch into the top of the dc.
– When working into a 3ch side row, make the first stitch into the first chain and the second stitch into the third chain.
R1: 1ch, 1sc in each st around; slip stitch to close the round and turn
R2: 1sc into the first stitch, 1fpsc around the following sts; slip stitch into the first sc; 1ch and turn
R3: 1sc in each stitch around; slip stitch to close the round and fasten off;

Optionally, you can work one more row for the bottom panels and neckline edging in slip stitches, using a smaller hook size (4mm).

TO FINISH
– Weave in all loose ends.
– Block the shirt to the specified measurements.

I hope you enjoy this pattern and decide to make it. You can also find a step-by-step tutorial on my YouTube channel to help guide you through the process.

https://youtu.be/autRN2wb5Zk

 

What an exciting day! I’m thrilled to finally share the Sunset Breeze Shirt Pattern with you. Looking back through my camera roll, I see that I started working on this design in March, and now it’s almost the end of June!

Originally, this project began as a dress. I dreamt of creating a shirt-dress in black, but my first attempt wasn’t successful. I started with a top-down, saddle sleeve construction, but I wasn’t happy with the fit. So, I switched gears and tried a panel construction instead.

The shirt version became my backup plan, using some yarn I had on hand for the video tutorial. Filming in black didn’t seem like a good idea, even though I wanted my dress to be black. So, I decided to make two versions.

After the initial dress attempt didn’t work out, I focused on the shirt version for my second try. I’m thrilled with the result! And don’t worry, I’m still working on the dress version, so it’s not a lost cause.

I hope you’ll try making the Sunset Breeze Shirt. The process might be slow, but it’s incredibly rewarding when you see the beautiful final result

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

 

Let’s dive right into the pattern because it’s quite detailed, and I want to save you some time and space! 😊

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size 2 , Sport weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 3.5 mm crochet hook
o 3 mm crochet hook for edging and collar
• 8 – 10 buttons 1cm diameter
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Sunset Breeze Shirt is a versatile and stylish summer top that seamlessly blends classic elements with modern flair. Featuring a drop-shoulder construction, this design ensures a relaxed and comfortable fit, perfect for warm weather. The shirt is crafted using a mesh stitch pattern, which offers both breathability and a touch of elegance.

This pattern incorporates color blocks, adding a contemporary twist to the traditional crochet technique. The contrasting colors used for the edging and details enhance the overall aesthetic, giving the shirt a polished and refined look.

Whether you’re strolling along the beach or enjoying a casual day out, the Sunset Breeze Shirt is designed to keep you looking chic and feeling cool. Its timeless appeal and easy-to-wear design make it a must-have addition to any summer wardrobe

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Sunset Breeze Shirt Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with a 88 cm bust circumference, and wears a size Extra Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL);

Final Measurements of the Sunset Breeze Shirt
Neck Width a: 20 cm (21, 21, 22) (23, 24, 24, 25, 26)
Back Panel (Bust) Width b: 48 cm (52, 54, 57), (61, 66, 72, 76, 81)
Armhole depth (sleeve width). c: 17 cm (18, 19, 21) (21, 23, 24, 26, 26)
Sleeve length d: 20 cm (20, 22, 22) (23, 23, 24, 24, 24)
Length e: (front panel): 60 cm (61, 63, 66) (66, 70, 70, 73, 74)
Length f: (back panel): 65 cm (66, 67, 70) (71, 74, 75, 77, 78)

YARN

For the Sunset Breeze Shirt, I used: Friends Wheel by Hobbii, in color Off White (02) – A, Light Grey (117) – B, Grey (119) – C, and Anthracite (122) – D. Yarn composition:55% Cotton, 45% Acryl; Each cake has 100 grams and is approximately 400 meters.
For each size, you will approximately need:
Off White (A): 300 (330, 360, 400) (420, 480, 520, 570, 610) meters
Light Grey (117) – B: 360 (400, 430, 470) (510, 570, 630, 680, 730) meters
Grey (119) – C: 260 (290, 310, 340) (370, 410, 450, 490, 530) meters
Anthracite (122) – D: 360 (400, 430, 470) (510, 570, 630, 680, 730) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
fpsc – front post sc
dc – double crochet
sc2tog – 2 sc worked together
dc2tog wide – 2dc worked together with 1st in between
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – row
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 3.5 mm crochet hook in mesh (filet) stitch pattern

25sts = 10 cm
11 rows = 10 cm

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

 

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

MESH STITCH (FILET STITCH)
The primary stitch pattern used in the Sunset Breeze Shirt is a mesh stitch pattern also known as filet stitch pattern.
This stitch pattern requires a multiple of 2+1 stitches.

Pattern (use it for the gauge swatch)

Chain the required number of stitches
R1: ch4, 1dc into the 7th stitch, *1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next; *rep the section to the end of the row; ch4 and turn
R2: *skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row; work the last dc into the third chain.

This design features a decrease pattern integrated into the filet stitch. The decreases are worked into the bottom of the back and front panels, giving the garment an elegantly curved, oval-shaped hem.

Decrease at the beginning of the row: Start with ch3, skip the first 1ch-sp, 1dc in next; the ch3 at the beginning won’t count as a stitch; the first stitch in the row will be the first dc;
Decrease at the end of the row: When you have 3 stitches left, work a wide double crochet 2 together (dc2tog wide) as follows:

1. Yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over, and pull through the first 2 loops on your hook.
2. Skip 1 chain space.
3. Yarn over and insert the hook into the last stitch, yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops on your hook..
4. Yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook.

Front Post Single Crochet

We will work one row in front post single crochet for the edges. This will be the second and final row of the edge. These front-post single crochet stitches will cause the top loops of the stitches in the last row to lay on the surface, giving the edging a nice and polished look. This row will be worked on the wrong side.

Begin with a chain 1. Insert the hook from front to back into the first stitch, and then pull the hook out from back to front through the next stitch, working around the single crochet stitch of the previous row.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

 

INSTRUCTIONS

BACK PANEL

The construction of the back panel consists of two pieces: the top of the back panel, which is worked bottom-up, and the bottom of the back panel (or the rest of the back panel), which is worked top-down.

The back panel is worked in two pieces because the design incorporates short rows to shape the shoulder. Working the top back panel bottom-up makes it easier to work the short rows with decreases, rather than with increases, which would be required for a top-down construction. (considering that we have to decrease multiple stitches in one single row.

BACK PANEL – Section 1

For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video tutorial available here.

*If you want to make the shirt in color Block, use for this section color A (see the YARN section above)
*first 3ch at the beginning of the row, counts as first dc;
Start: ch 121 (129, 135, 143) (153. 165, 179, 191, 203)
R1: 4ch, 1dc in the 7th stitch from the hook, *1ch, skip the next st, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the ed of the row; ch4 and turn
R2: *skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep to the end of the row; work the last dc into the third ch; ch4 and turn;
Rep. R2 until you have 16 (16, 18, 20 ) (20, 22, 22, 24, 24) rows

BACK PANEL – Section 1 | Short Rows
To work the short rows, we will decrease at the beginning and end of each row.

Beginning of the Row: To decrease at the beginning, skip the stitches to be decreased by working slip stitches. This positions the yarn in the stitch where the current short row needs to start. For example, if we need to decrease by 4 stitches, we will work 5 slip stitches, skipping the first 4 stitches and positioning the yarn on top of the 5th stitch.

End of the Row: At the end of the row, leave the stitches that need to be decreased unworked

For all sizes:
Short R1: slip 5sts, ch4, skip the next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep until you have 4sts left; turn
Short R2: slip 7sts, ch4, skip the next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep until you have 6sts left; turn

Alternate R1 and R2 until you have 6 (7, 6, 8) (9, 9, 11, 12, 13) .

For sizes M and XXL you have to work one more row;

Size M, Short R7 (Last short Row): Rep. Short R2
Size XXL, Short R10 (Last short row): Rep. R1.

After completing the short rows, we should have:
61 (61, 63, 63) (65, 69, 71, 71, 75) stitches remaining.
From this total number of stitches, 5 stitches at the beginning and 5 at the end will form part of the shoulder and will be included in the next section where we straighten the shoulder edge.

If you consider the neckline width to be too large, you can repeat one or both short rows to achieve the desired number of stitches for the neckline width.

BACK PANEL – Section 1 | Straighten the shoulder edge

The shoulder edge may now look uneven due to the short rows, resembling a stairway. To straighten the edge, we will work two rows: one in single crochet and one in front post single crochet.

For this particular sample, I used color D (see the YARN section).

Right Shoulder

Instructions:

Start the First Row:

Begin the first row on the right side.
If necessary, cut the yarn after completing the last short row, especially if you want to use a different color for this edge.
Working the Rows:

To bridge the gaps between two short rows and avoid gaps, work two stitches together. Be careful not to increase the number of stitches.

You can work the bridge between short rows in two ways to avoid gaps and create a more even edge:

First Method:

Work 1 single crochet in the first 3 (5) stitches, depending on the short row.
Then, work sc2tog: insert the hook for the first leg into the 4th (6th) stitch, and for the second leg into the side stitch of the next short row.
Optionally, you can work the first leg as a half double crochet. This will make the “bridge” higher, resulting in a more even edge.

Second Method:

Work 1 single crochet in the first 4 (6) stitches, depending on the short row.
Then, work sc2tog: insert the hook for the first leg into the side stitch of the next short row, and for the second leg into the first stitch of the next short row.
Optionally, you can work the first leg as a half double crochet. This will make the “bridge” higher, resulting in a more even edge.

First Row (Single Crochet):

Work across the short rows in single crochet, ensuring you maintain an even edge; After completing the short rows section, work 1 single crochet into the next 5 stitches of the neckline.

At the end of this row you should have 35 (39, 41, 45) (49, 53, 59, 65, 69) sc stitches

Second Row (Front Post Single Crochet):

Work the second row in front post single crochet. This stitch will help lay the top loops of the stitches on the surface, giving a nice and polished look to the edging.
By following these steps, the shoulder edge will be straightened and have a clean, finished appearance.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

 

Left Shoulder

For the left shoulder, you will work the same two rows: one in single crochet and one in front post single crochet.

Begin the First Row:

Start on the right side.
For this shoulder, the first stitch will be the 5th stitch of the neckline, counting from the left edge to the right.
Work the First Single Crochet Row:

Follow one of the methods described above to make the “bridge” between short rows.
After finishing the first row, you should have 35 (39, 41, 45) (49, 53, 59, 65, 69) single crochet stitches.
Turn and Work the Second Row:

Turn your work and crochet the second row in front post single crochet.

Note: These instructions continue with the Back Panel Section 2. However, if you are working the front panels in the same color as the shoulder edge, you can proceed directly to the front panels. See the instructions below for more details.

BACK PANEL – Section 2

Contrasting Edge

Using Color D

Work into the foundation row (the bottom) of the BACK PANEL Section 1;
Work on the right side;

R1:Rejoin yarn into the first st, ch1, 1sc into each st across; ch1 and turn
R2: 1fpsc around each st.

Change to color B and continue the Back Panel Section 2

Actual Back Panel Section 2

After completing the detailed edge in a contrasting color, we will start working on the actual panel. This particular design features a reverse pleat in the middle of the back panel.

Mark the Middle Stitch:

Place a stitch marker in the middle stitch: stitch number 61 (65, 68, 72) (77, 83, 90, 96, 102).

The middle stitch can be a double crochet (dc) or a chain space (1 ch-sp).

Creating the Pleat:

For this sample, the pleat consists of 16 stitches, which means 8 chain spaces.
You can add more stitches if you want the pleat to be larger

R1: 4ch, skip next st, 1dc in next st, *1ch, skip next st 1dc in next; *rep. to the stitch marker, ch17 (the pleat stitches) 1dc* (If your middle stitch is a double crochet (dc), work this dc into the same stitch as the last dc before the pleat stitches. If the middle stitch is a chain space (ch-sp), skip the middle stitch and work this dc into the next stitch). Continue in the established stitch pattern to the end of the row, then chain 4 and turn.

Continue working in the established pattern for a few more rows. Then, follow these steps to sew the pleat:

Step 1: Turn your piece to the wrong side. Fold the pleat and secure it with stitch markers or safety pins.

Note: When folding the pleat, ensure half of the chain spaces (in this design, 4) are in the middle, and fold the remaining chain spaces underneath (in this design, 2 chain spaces on each side).

Step 2: Use a needle and thread to sew the pleat edge to the back panel edge.

Continue working into the established pattern until you have 36 rows for the Section 2 of the back panel.

Note: This design features a decrease pattern integrated into the filet stitch. The decreases are worked into the bottom of the back panel giving the garment an elegantly curved, oval-shaped hem.

Besides the 36 rows, the back panel section 2 incorporates 12 more rows with a decrease pattern. If you wish to adjust the length of the shirt, work more or fewer rows before starting these rows with decreases.

Decrease with 2 stitches both at the beginning and at the end of the row, on each of the following rows;

Decrease at the begging of the row: Start with ch3, skip the first 1ch-sp, 1dc in next; the ch3 at the beggining won’t count as a stitch; the first stitch in the row, will be the first dc;
Decrease at the end of the row: When you have 3 stitches left, work a wide double crochet 2 together (dc2tog wide) as follows:

1. Yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops on your hook.
2. Skip 1 chain space.
3. Yarn over and insert the hook into the last stitch, yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops on your hook..
4. Yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook.

R37: 3ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep until you have 3sts left, dc2tog wide;
Rep. R37 until you have 48 rows for the BACK PANEL Section 2 (12 rows with decrese pattern)

Fasten off; the back panel is done!

After completing the back panel you should have in total, counting the rows from the neckline and only the mesh stitch rows:

70 (71, 73, 76) (77, 80, 81, 84, 85) rows

FRONT PANEL

Front Panel Right
Use color C

Start with your work on the right side
Rejoin yarn into the first st of the right shoulder;
R1: 4ch, skip next st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next; *rep. to the end of the row; 4ch and turn (last stitch is the last stitch of the shoulder edge)
R2: skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep to the end of the row; 4ch and turn

R3 – R4: rep. R2
At Row 5, we will add the required number of stitches at the end of the row to complete the front panel width. On this front panel, we will add the required number of stitches at the end of the row as foundation stitches in a mesh stitch pattern.
For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video

It will be easier to count the stitches that we will add, as ch-sps.
For each size you will need to add 13 (13, 13, 13) (14, 15, 15, 15, 16) ch-sps;

R5: Work the row into the established pattern to the last stitch of the shoulder;
Foundation mesh sts: Continue R5, following these steps:
Step 1: ch1, yarn over and insert the hook into the side of the last st;
Step 2: Yarn over, and pull the yarn through the first loop
Step 3: Rep. Step 2
Step 4: Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first 2 loops
Step 5: Yarm Over and pull it through all the loop on the hook

You completed the first ch-sp
Rep. Steps 1 to 5 until you add all the required ch-sps.

At the end of R5, ch4 and turn;
Starting with R6, continue working into the established pattern until you have
59 (60, 62, 65) (66, 69, 70, 73, 74) rows;

Notes:
The front panels will have a shaped bottom hem but will be shorter than the back panel.
For the back panel, we worked 12 rows with a decrease pattern; for the front panels, we will work only 7 rows with a decrease pattern.
The number of rows for each panel, before starting the rows with the decrease pattern, should be equal. for the back panel, This count begins from the neckline and not from the shoulder.
The contrasting line on the back will count as 1 row in the mesh stitch pattern.

Shaping the bottom Hem:

The decrease will only occur on the side edge, and the pattern will be written differently for sizes with an even number of rows and those with an odd number of rows worked for the front panel until now

Sizes XS, L, 2XL, 4XL

For these sizes, the last row before starting the decrease pattern was on the right side. This means that when you turn your work, the side edge will be at the end of the row.

First Decrease Row: ch4, skip 1ch-sp, *1dc in next dc, 1ch, skip next ch-sp; *rep until you have 3sts left, dc2tog wide in the last 3sts;
Second decrease Row: 3ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row;

Alternate these 2 rows until you complete the front panel; you will work 7 rows with the decrease pattern;

Sizes S, M, XL, 3XL, and 5XL

For these sizes, the last row before starting the decrease pattern was on the wrong side. This means that when you turn your work, the side edge will be at the beginning of the row.

First decrease Row: 3ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row;

Second Decrease Row: ch4, skip 1ch-sp, *1dc in next dc, 1ch, skip next ch-sp; *rep until you have 3sts left, dc2tog wide in the last 3sts;

Alternate these 2 rows until you complete the front panel; you will work 7 rows with the decrease pattern;

After finishing the rows with decreases you will have in total: 66 (67, 69, 72) (73, 76, 77, 80, 81) rows.

Front Panel Left

For the left front panel, I incorporated two color blocks in my sample: color B and color A. These two color blocks are visually separated by a contrasting line in color D, achieved by crocheting one row in single crochet (sc) followed by one row in front post single crochet (fpsc). These two rows together form one row in the mesh stitch pattern. Therefore, a total of 58, (59, 61, 64) (65, 68, 69, 72, 73) rows will be worked in the mesh stitch pattern before starting the decrease on the side edge. These rows will be evenly split approximately in half.

Start with color B and work 30 (30, 32, 32) (34, 34, 34, 36, 36) rows. You have the flexibility to distribute the total number of rows as desired. I opted to allocate more rows to color B to ensure that all sizes have an even number of rows. This consideration accounts for the fact that color A will also include rows with the decrease pattern.

Transitioning to color A, continue working until reaching the decrease pattern, completing 28 (29, 29, 32) (31, 34, 35, 36, 37) rows.

Front Panel Left Color Block B
Start with color B
Rejoin yarn into the first stitch of the shoulder, next to the neckline;
R1: ch4, skip next st, 1dc in next, *1ch, skip next st, 1dc in next; *rep. to the end of the row; ch4 and turn
R2: skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row;
R3: Rep. R2
At the end of R4, we will add extra stitches to complete the front panel width;
R4: Work into the established pattern to the end of the row; ch 26 (26, 26, 26) (28, 30, 30, 30, 32) sts
R5: ch4sts more and work 1dc into the 7th stitch, 1ch, skip 1st, *1dc in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st *; Rep. from * to* until you finish the ch sts;

Continuing R5: 1dc into the next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the end of the row;

Continue working into the established pattern until you have 30 (30, 32, 32) (34, 34, 34, 36, 36) rows

Color Blocks separating line

Change to color D
R1: 1ch, 1sc in each st to the end of the row
R2: 1ch, 1fpsc in each stitch to the end of the row

Front Panel Left Color Block A

Change to color A and continue working into the established mesh stitch pattern for 28 (29, 29, 32) (31, 34, 35, 36, 37) rows.

Shaping the bottom Hem:

The decrease will only occur on the side edge, and the pattern will be written differently for sizes with an even number of rows and those with an odd number of rows worked for the front panel until now

Sizes XS, L, 2XL, 4XL

For these sizes, the last row before starting the decrease pattern was on the right side. This means that when you turn your work, the side edge will be at the end of the row.

First Decrease Row: ch4, skip 1ch-sp, *1dc in next dc, 1ch, skip next ch-sp; *rep until you have 3sts left, dc2tog wide in the last 3sts;
Second decrease Row: 3ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row;

Alternate these 2 rows until you complete the front panel; you will work 7 rows with the decrease pattern;

Sizes S, M, XL, 3XL, and 5XL

For these sizes, the last row before starting the decrease pattern was on the wrong side. This means that when you turn your work, the side edge will be at the beginning of the row.

First decrease Row: 3ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row;

Second Decrease Row: ch4, skip 1ch-sp, *1dc in next dc, 1ch, skip next ch-sp; *rep until you have 3sts left, dc2tog wide in the last 3sts;

Alternate these 2 rows until you complete the front panel; you will work 7 rows with the decrease pattern;

After finishing the rows with decreases, you will have in total 65 (66, 69, 71) (72, 75, 76, 79, 80) rows in mesh stitch pattern, plus one Color Block separating the line of two rows, one in single crochet and 1 in front post single crochet. This separating line counts as 1 mesh stitch row;

EDGING

Prior to starting work on the sleeves, we will first focus on the edges:

1. Begin by making the button band and the buttonhole band.
2. Proceed to the bottom hem for both the back and front panels.
3. Subsequently, address the side edges of the back and front panels as a single piece.

All the edges and collar will be worked using color D (contrasting color)

Button Band Edge

Before starting the button band, please decide which side you want the buttons on and which side will have the buttonholes.
In my sample, I chose to place the buttons on the right front panel.

The button edge will be worked across the front panel edge. For this, work 2 stitches into each side row. Use the first and last chain as references if you have a 3-chain, and the bottom and top of the stitch if you have a double crochet. For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video

Start in color D on the right side of your work
Rejoin the yarn into the first stitch of the front panel edge. This will be at the bottom of the front panel if you chose the right front panel, or at the top of the front panel if you chose the left.

R1: ch1, 1sc in each stitch across (2sc in each side row); 1ch and turn
R2: 1fpsc into each stitch across, 1ch and turn
R3-R5: 1sc in each st across.

Button Holes Edge

Start in color D on the right side of your work
Rejoin the yarn into the first stitch of the front panel edge. This will be at the top of the front panel if you chose the left front panel, or at the bottom of the front panel if you chose the left.

R1: ch1, 1sc in each stitch across (2sc in each side row); 1ch and turn
R2: 1fpsc into each stitch across, 1ch and turn
R3: 1sc in each st across.

At Row 4, we will make the buttonholes. But first, here are a few steps to follow to calculate how many stitches you will have between each buttonhole:

I used 0.5 cm diameter buttons and allowed only one stitch for each buttonhole. Adjust if you have larger buttons or if you think the button won’t fit through the hole.

1. Count the stitches on the buttonhole band: Determine the total number of stitches.
2. Mark the first and last buttonhole stitches: Decide where you want the first and last buttonholes.
3. Count the remaining stitches: Calculate the number of stitches between the first and last buttonholes.
4. Divide the remaining stitches by the number of buttons: This will give you the number of stitches between each buttonhole.
For example, if the result is12 stitches, use 1 stitch for each buttonhole and the remaining 11 stitches between buttonholes. If 1 stitch isn’t enough, you can use 2 stitches for each buttonhole, leaving 10 stitches between them.

Work the buttonholes as follows:

Chain the number of stitches required for the buttonhole and skip the same number of stitches.

R4: 1ch, 1sc up to the first button hole, 1ch (or 2ch, skip 1st (or 2sts) 1sc in next sts up to the next button hole; Rep. until you complete the row.

R5: 1sc in each st across;

Bottom Hem Back Panel and
Front Panels Edging

For the bottom hems, we will follow the same edging pattern as for the button band. There are a few details to consider when working the bottom hem edging:

1. Work into the side rows of the decrease pattern: The back and front panels are shaped at the bottom, so you will need to work the edging into the side rows of this pattern. Work 2sc in each side row;
2. Decrease next to the side edges: To keep the bottom hem in line with the side edges of the shirt, decrease next to the side edges as you work.
3. Accommodate the curved bottom hem: Since the bottom hem is curved, work 2 single crochets in the same stitch at every other row in the corners.
For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video

Bottom Hem Back Panel Edging

Work in color D
Start on the right side
Rejoin the yarn into the first st, right on the side edge. This stitch will be into the first side row of the decrease pattern;
R1: 1ch, sc2tog into the first 2sts (first side row)1, sc in each st across the side rows, 2sc into the corner st (place a st. marker into the first st of the increase), 1sc in each st until the last st, before the decrease pattern, 2sc into the next st (place a st marker into the second st of the increase), 1sc in each st across the side rows until you have 2sts left, sc2tog into the last 2sts. 1ch and turn
R2: sc2tog, 1fpsc in each st until you have 2sts left, sc2tog, 1ch and turn;
*remove and place the st marker into the correspondent stitch of this row
R3: sc2tog, 1sc in each st until the marked st, 2sc into the marked st (place the st marker into the first st of the increase), 1sc in each st until the next marked st, 2sc into the marked st (place the st marker into the second st of the increase), 1sc in each st until you have st left, sc2tog into the last 2sts, 1ch and turn;
R4: sc2tog, 1sc in each st until you have 2sts left, sc2tog;
*place the st markers into the correspondent sts
R5: rep. R3

Bottom Hem Front panels Edging

For the front panels edging we will work the same number of rows as follows:
R1: sc
R2: fpsc
R3-R5: sc
When working the front panels edging consider the same details explained above.

Side Edges

For the side edges of the shirt, we will work 2 rows in the contrasting color D:

Row 1: Single crochet (sc)
Row 2: Front post single crochet (fpsc)

Instructions:

Start working on the right side of the shirt.

Row 1:

Work 2 single crochets (sc) in each mesh stitch pattern side row.
Work 1 single crochet (sc) in each single crochet side row, as in the sc side rows of the bottom hem edges.
Begin this row from the bottom hem of one panel and continue across, ending at the bottom hem of the other panel.
Row 2:

Work front post single crochets (fpsc) across the row to complete the edging.
This will ensure a consistent and neat finish along the side edges of the shirt.
For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video

SLEEVES

To ensure that the shirt is even from the armpit to the bottom and that the sleeve stitches/side rows are correctly distributed across the front and back panels, follow these steps:

1. Align the Panels:

– Place the front panel and back panel one on top of the other;
– Ensure the bottom first stitch of the side edge of the front panel is directly on top of the bottom first stitch of the side edge of the back panel.
-Use a stitch marker to connect these two stitches to keep them aligned as you work.

2. Mark the Sleeve Width:

– Mark the desired width of the sleeve according to the measurements indicated in the pattern.

3. Count and Adjust Stitches:

– Count the stitches from the armpit to the bottom edge on both the front and back panels.
– Ensure you have the same number of stitches on both panels.
– Adjust accordingly to achieve symmetry.

Now that we have marked the sleeve stitches, we can start working on the sleeves. For this particular sample, I worked the right sleeve in color C and the left sleeve in color A.

Start on the right side and rwjoin yarn into the first marked st of the sleeve;
R1: ch4, skip next st, 1dc in next st, *1ch, skip next st, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the last st; ch4 and turn
R2: skip the first ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row; ch4 and turn;
R3-R20: rep. R2
*adjust the number of rows according with the desired length;

Sleeve Edging

Change to color D and work follow the Edging Pattern.

Work the bottom of the sleeve and the side edges

COLLAR

Work the collar into the contrasting color D
As preferred, you can include or not the button band.
Start working on the right side;
R1: 1sc in each st across the neckline
R2: 1fpsc in each st across;
R3-R20: 1sc in each st across.

ASSEMBLING

To assemble the shirt, we need to join the side edges, starting from the bottom hem, passing the armpit, and continuing along the sleeve length.

For this sample, I used slip stitches to join the side edges of the shirt.

For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video

TO FINISH

– Sew on the buttons.
– Weave in all loose ends.
– Block the shirt to the specified measurements.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

 

 

I’m thrilled to finally unveil the Good Vibes Pattern to you—it’s been an incredible journey that I’m beyond grateful for.

What initially began as a personal project, inspired by the ColorFall Sweater pattern, evolved into something truly unique. As I experimented with thinner yarn while maintaining the same stitch count, unexpected details emerged, transforming the project into a completely new design. Adjusting from a size M to XS prompted a recalculation for larger sizes, ultimately leading to a fresh perspective and a new video tutorial.

Crafting two initial samples in Fingering Weight yarn from Arcane Fiber Works was just the beginning. Eager to explore different textures, I turned to Bamboo Soft from Scheepjes for the third sample. The result? A cotton bamboo blend that quickly became my favorite rendition of the design.

I can’t wait for you to experience the joy of creating and wearing the Good Vibes Blouse. May it bring you as much happiness as it has brought me.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

 

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Fingering or Sport Weight yarn, Size 1 or 2
• Crochet Hook:
o 4.5 mm crochet hook (or the size needed to achieve gauge
o 4mm crochet hook for edging
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

Step into the world of timeless elegance with our newest creation: the enchanting Good Vibes Blouse Crochet Pattern. Picture this: a whimsical top-down design adorned with a captivating round yoke, ensuring a snug, flattering fit that accentuates your silhouette flawlessly.

But here’s the best part: this isn’t just any pattern. It’s a celebration of sustainability and creativity, urging you to dive into your yarn stash and unleash your imagination. Whether you have fingering, sport, or even DK weight yarn tucked away, as long as you nail the gauge, the possibilities are endless!

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

And oh, the fibers! Prepare to be spoiled for choice. From the luxurious embrace of merino and nylon blends to the cool, breathable comfort of cotton and bamboo blends, each sample tells a story of its own, waiting for you to weave it into your wardrobe.

Let your crochet journey begin anew with the Good Vibes Blouse Crochet Pattern—where style meets sustainability and creativity knows no bounds.

With comprehensive instructions and a video tutorial covering nine sizes, from Extra Small to 5X Large, you can firmly tailor this design to your unique style.

Feel the thrill of bringing your vision to life stitch by stitch as you embark on the journey of creating the perfect fit for you. Embrace the harmonious marriage of comfort and creativity woven into every fiber of the Blouse, where every loop and twist tells a tale of joy and self-expression

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Good Vibes Blouse Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from Extra Small to 5X Large.
The model is 168 cm, with tall 86cm bust circumference and wears size Extra Small

Neckline Circ a: 57 cm (57, 57, 57, 57, 62, 62, 62, 62 )
*Yoke depth b: 14cm (15, 16, 17, 18, 19,20, 22, 23)
Bust Circ c: 89 cm (95, 100, 107, 114, 124, 134, 144, 154)
Sleeve circ. d: 26 cm (27, 29, 30, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46)
**Sleeve Length e: 35 cm (35, 35, 35, 35, 35, 35, 35)
***Length f: 37 cm (38, 38, 40, 41, 42, 43, 45, 47)
*The Yoke depth will increase due to the armpit stitches
**Adjust the sleeve length as desired
*** Adjust the length as desired

YARN

Sample 1: Arcane FiberWorks, Fingering in color FairyTales. 80% Merino, 20% Nylon; Each hank has 100 grams and 400 meters

Sample 2: Arcane FiberWorks, Fingering in color Peacocks Feather. 80% Merino, 20% Nylon; Each hank has 100 grams and 400 meters

Sample 3:Scheepjes Bamboo Soft, Sport Weight in color Rich Cream (265); 50% Cotton, 50% Bamboo; Each skein has 50 grams and 150 meters

For Each Size you will need: 870 (930, 1020, 1110, 1230, 1350, 1500, 1650, 1830) meters.
*The required yardage may vary depending on the desired length of the blouse and sleeves

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
slst -slip stitch
Vst – V stitch (1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc – in the same st or ch-sp)
ch-sp – chain space
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rows/rounds
Inc – increase (1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc)

TENSION

Using 4.5 mm crochet hook in Vst
6.5 Vsts = 10 cm
11.5 rows = 10cm

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The main stitch pattern is Vst. For this particular pattern, work the Vst as follows:
(1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) in the same st or ch-sp
In the foundation ch, work the Vst as follows: *1Vst, skip the next 2sts; *rep, until the end of the round.
Make the increase as follows: (1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) in the same 3ch-sp.
Increase at the beginning of the round; (5ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) in the same 3ch-sp.

PATTERN NOTES

Work the piece in the round only on the right side;
start each round into the first 3ch-sp; each round starts with (5ch, 1hdc) in the first 3ch-sp, which counts as the first Vst;
To close the round, slst into the second chain;

INSTRUCTIONS

YOKE

The blouse features a round yoke construction, crocheted from top to bottom. Beginning with an essential stitch count for the neckline, we gradually expand through several increase rounds, ensuring the yoke seamlessly accommodates the necessary stitches for the bust and sleeves upon completion.

This design incorporates instructions for an anatomical neckline, strategically distributing rows to provide a tailored fit. By crocheting more rows on the back panel and fewer on the front, will result in a flattering and comfortable garment.

To achieve this, we’ll start with half of the stitches needed for the neckline circumference. Working the piece flat, we’ll implement increases at both the beginning and end of each row, systematically shaping the front panel and gradually building its structure.

Throughout this section, we’ll incorporate the necessary pattern increases to complete the yoke and attain the required number of stitches.

For all the sizes we will increase with 10 Vsts per increase round. However, in the section with short rows, adjustments will be made as needed.
Total number of rows to work for the YOKE: 16 (17, 18, 20, 21, 22, 23, 25, 28) rounds
Number of increase rounds: 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10)

For sizes S, L, XL, and XXL, an additional increase round is added at the end of the yoke to achieve the required number of stitches. In this final round, 4 (for S), 5 (for L), 6 (for XL), and 4 (for XXL) stitches are increased..

After finishing the yoke you will have in total:
80 ( 84, 90, 95, 106, 114, 120, 130, 140) Vsts.

The increase pattern varies for each size:

XS: 3 rounds followed by 1 increase round
S, M, L, XL: 1 increase round followed by 3 rounds
XXL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL: 1 increase round followed by 2 rounds
Note: The distribution of increase rounds within the yoke rounds can be adjusted according to preference.

For all sizes, the neckline starts with 40 stitches as refference, resulting in a neckline circumference of 62cm based on the gauge. The short rows section will expand this circumference.

YOKE Size XS
SHORT ROWS SECTION

We’ll begin with half of the stitches needed for a complete round. With each row, we’ll add 1 Vstitch at the beginning and 1 Vstitch at the end of the row.
The first Vst in a row is ch5 and 1hdc into the same st, where first 2ch count as a hdc and the next 3ch count as the separating chains of the Vst.
Every alternate row, we’ll extend the initial and final stitches’ external legs, employing a chain of 4 instead of 2 at the beginning of the row and a treble crochet instead of a half double crochet at the end of the row.
The first Vst in a row is Ch5

Start: ch 61
R1: ch5, 1hdc in the 6th st from the hook (first Vst increase), *skip the next 2sts, 1Vst in next; *rep to the end of the row (your last Vst will be into the last ch-st)
Total Vsts: 21
R2: ch7, 1hdc in the first hdc (Vst increase at the begining of the row with one of the sticthes longer), 1Vst into each of the next 3ch-sps, (1hdc, 3ch, 1tr) into the last st (second ch)
Total Vsts: 23
R3: ch5, 1hdc into the same first st, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp to the end of the row, 1Vst into the 4th ch.
Total Vsts: 25
R4 (increase row): ch7, 1hdc in the first hdc, [1Vst in next 3 ch3-sps, (1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) into the next ch3-sp] x 6. 1Vst into the last 3 ch3-sps, (1hdc, 3ch, 1tr) into the last st (second ch)
Total Vsts – 33 Vsts
R5:ch5, 1hdc into the same first st, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp to the end of the row, 1Vst into the 4th ch.
Total Vsts: 35

Following the completion of the short rows, we must increase the number of stitches to complete both the front panel and the round. By the end of Round 4, the increase round, under the condition of a complete round, we should have a total of 50 Vsts.

At the end of Round 5, we currently have 35 stitches. To achieve a total of 50 stitches for a complete round, we need to add 15 more Vsts. Considering each Vst consists of 3 stitches, we’ll need to add 15 x 3 = 45 stitches, plus 2 additional stitches (to account for the last separating stitches until the next Vst).

To complete Round 5, chain 47 stitches and slip stitch to close the round into the second chain. Then, turn your work.
R6: slip 3sts, to start your round from the third ch stitch; (ch5, 1hdc) into the same st, skip the next 2 ch sts, *1Vst in next st, skip the next 2 ch sts; *rep. to the end of the chain stitches; continue with 1Vst in each 3ch-sp to the end of the row; close the round with 1slst into the second ch.

With the short rows section now completed, to avoid commencing the round at the front of the blouse, cut the yarn. We’ll then reconnect the yarn at the first Vst of the back panel.
To identify the first Vst of the back panel for reconnecting the yarn, we’ll divide the total number of Vsts by 10, allocating 3/10 for the front and back panels and 2/10 for the sleeves. With 50 stitches total, 1/10 equals 5 Vsts, resulting in 15 Vsts for the front and back panels and 10 Vsts for the sleeves.

Given that we added 15 Vsts to complete the front panel and round, we’ll mark these 15 Vsts as part of the front panel and then continue with 10 for the sleeve. The subsequent stitch after the sleeve will denote the first stitch of the back panel. Place a stitch marker at this point and reconnect the yarn to that stitch.

Now we can continue working on the yoke

YOKE Size XS
Without short rows

If you find it more convenient to work the yoke without incorporating short rows, here’s the pattern to follow:

Yoke foundation row:

To avoid starting with the required number of stitches for the Vst pattern and to create a narrower neckline circumference, we’ll begin the pattern with fewer chain stitches. Then, we’ll work a foundation row, incorporating several increases to achieve the necessary number of stitches.
Start: ch111
Starting with the second st, *1sc in next 10sts, 2sc in next;*rep. to the end of the row; slst into the first sc to close the round.
Total sts: 120

Actual Yoke:
Work in the round only on the right side, commencing each round in the first 3ch-sp using slip stitches to position your yarn. At the start of every round, begin with 5ch and 1hdc into the same space; consider the first 2ch as the first hdc, while the subsequent 3ch serve as separating chains for the V-stitch.

R1: 5ch, 1hdc in the same st, skip the next 2sts, *1Vst in next st, skip the next 2 sts; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with a slst into the second ch.
Total Vsts: 40
R2: sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch.
R3: rep. R2
R4 (increase round): sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 2 ch3-sps, 1Inc in next 3ch-sp, *1Vst into the next 3 ch3-sps, 1Inc in next; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 50
R5-R6: Rep. R2

Beginning from Round 7, the pattern for the yoke remains consistent for both versions: anatomical neckline (with short rows) and regular neckline.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

YOKE Size XS
CONTINUING THE YOKE (both versions)

R7:sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch.
R8 (Increase Round): sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp (increase), 1vst in next 4 ch3-sps, *1Inc in next ch3-sp, 1Vst in next 4 ch3-sps; *rep to the end of the round; close the round with an slst into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 60
R9 – R11: rep. R7
R12 (Increase round):sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 4 ch3-sps, 1Inc in next 3ch-sp, *1Vst into the next 5 ch3-sps, 1Inc in next; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 70
R13-R15: Rep. R7
R16: (Increase round): sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp (increase), 1vst in next 6 ch3-sps, *1Inc in next ch3-sp, 1Vst in next 6 ch3-sps; *rep to the end of the round; close the round with an slst into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 80

The YOKE is done and you can move to the BODY Section

YOKE Size S, M, L, and XL
SHORT ROWS SECTION

We’ll begin with half of the stitches needed for a complete round. With each row, we’ll add 1 Vstitch at the beginning and 1 Vstitch at the end of the row.
The first Vst in a row is ch5 and 1hdc into the same st, where first 2ch count as a hdc and the next 3ch count as the separating chains of the Vst.
Every alternate row, we’ll extend the initial and final stitches’ external legs, employing a chain of 4 instead of 2 at the beginning of the row and a treble crochet instead of a half double crochet at the end of the row.
The first Vst in a row is Ch5

Start: ch 61
R1(increase row): ch5, 1hdc in the 6th st from the hook (first Vst increase), *(skip the next 2sts, 1Vst in next) x3 times, skip the next 2sts, 1inc in next*; rep from *to* 3 more times, (skip the next 2sts, 1Vst in next) x3 times, skip the next 2sts, 1Vst in the last ch-st.
Total Vsts: 25
R2: ch7, 1hdc in the first hdc (Vst increase at the begining of the row with one of the sticthes longer), 1Vst into each of the next 3ch-sps, (1hdc, 3ch, 1tr) into the last st (second ch)
Total Vsts: 27
R3: ch5, 1hdc into the same first st, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp to the end of the row, 1Vst into the 4th ch.
Total Vsts: 29
R4: rep. R2
Total Vsts: 31
R5(Increase Row):ch5, 1hdc in the first hdc (Vst increase at the begining of the row with one of the sticthes longer), (1vst in next 4ch3-sp, 1Inc in next) x 6 times, 1vst in next ch3-sp, 1Vst in the second ch.
Total sts: 39
R6: rep. R3
Total sts: 41
R7: Rep. R2
Total sts 43

Following the completion of the short rows, we must increase the number of stitches to complete both the front panel and the round. By the end of Round 4, the increase round, under the condition of a complete round, we should have a total of 60 Vsts
At the end of Round 7, we currently have 43 stitches. To achieve a total of 60 stitches for a complete round, we need to add 17 more Vsts. Considering each Vst consists of 3 stitches, we’ll need to add 17 x 3 = 51 stitches, plus 2 additional stitches (to account for the last separating stitches until the next Vst).

To complete Round 7, chain 53 stitches and slip stitch to close the round into the second chain. Then, turn your work.

R8: slip 3sts, to start your round from the third ch stitch; (ch5, 1hdc) into the same st, skip the next 2 ch sts, *1Vst in next st, skip the next 2 ch sts; *rep. to the end of the chain stitches; continue with 1Vst in each 3ch-sp to the end of the row; close the round with 1slst into the second ch.

With the short rows section now completed, to avoid commencing the round at the front of the blouse, cut the yarn. We’ll then reconnect the yarn at the first Vst of the back panel.

To identify the first Vst of the back panel for reconnecting the yarn, we’ll divide the total number of Vsts by 10, allocating 3/10 for the front and back panels and 2/10 for the sleeves. With 60 stitches total, 1/10 equals 6Vsts, resulting in 18 Vsts for the front and back panels and 12 Vsts for the sleeves.

Considering that we integrated 17 V-stitches to finalize the front panel and round, we will designate these 17 V-stitches as belonging to the front panel. Additionally, we’ll incorporate 2 more V-stitches, 1 before and 1 after these 17 V-stitches, bringing the total to 19 V-stitches for the front panel. Following this, we’ll proceed with 12 V-stitches for the sleeve. The following stitch after completing the sleeve will signify the commencement of the back panel. Place a stitch marker in this st and then reattach the yarn to that stitch.

YOKE Size S, M, L, and XL
Without short rows

If you find it more convenient to work the yoke without incorporating short rows, here’s the pattern to follow:

Yoke foundation row:

To avoid starting with the required number of stitches for the Vst pattern and to create a narrower neckline circumference, we’ll begin the pattern with fewer chain stitches. Then, we’ll work a foundation row, incorporating several increases to achieve the necessary number of stitches.
Start: ch111

Starting with the second st, *1sc in next 10sts, 2sc in next;*rep. to the end of the row; slst into the first sc to close the round.
Total sts: 120

Actual Yoke:
Work in the round only on the right side, commencing each round in the first 3ch-sp using slip stitches to position your yarn. At the start of every round, begin with 5ch and 1hdc into the same space; consider the first 2ch as the first hdc, while the subsequent 3ch serve as separating chains for the V-stitch.
R1: 5ch, 1hdc in the same st, skip the next 2sts, (1Vst in next st, skip the next 2 sts)x2, 1Inc in next st, *(skip the next 2sts, 1Vst in next) x3 times, skip the next 2sts, 1inc in next*; rep from *to* to the end of the round close the round with a slst into the second ch.
Total Vsts: 50
R2: sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch.
R3 -R4: rep. R2
R5 (increase round): sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 4 ch3-sps, *1Inc in next 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 4 ch3-sps; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 60
R6-R8: Rep. R2

Beginning from Round 9, the pattern for the yoke remains consistent for both versions: anatomical neckline (with short rows) and regular neckline.

YOKE Size S, M, L, and XL
CONTINUING THE YOKE (both versions)

R9 (increase round):5ch, 1hdc in the same st, skip the next 2sts, (1Vst in next st, skip the next 2 sts)x4, 1Inc in next st, *(skip the next 2sts, 1Vst in next) x5 times, skip the next 2sts, 1inc in next*; rep from *to* to the end of the round close the round with a slst into the second ch.
Total Vsts: 70

R10: sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch.
R11-12: rep. R10
R13 (increase round): Sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 5 ch3-sps, *1Inc in next 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 6 ch3-sps; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 80
R14-R16: Rep. R10

Size S only

To adjust for Size S, we must incorporate 4 additional stitches to finalize the yoke. As of Row 16, we’ve accumulated 80 V-stitches. To determine the stitch count for each repeated section, we divide the total number of stitches (80) by the number of stitches to be added (4). This yields 20, indicating that on Row 17, we’ll distribute 1 V-stitch across the next 19 ch3-sps, followed by 1inc, repeating this sequence 4 times.
R17: Sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next18 ch3-sps, *1Inc in next 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 19 ch3-sps; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 84
The YOKE ifor size S is done and you can move to the BODY Section

Size M, L, XL only

R17 (increase round):5ch, 1hdc in the same st, skip the next 2sts, (1Vst in next st, skip the next 2 sts)x6, 1Inc in next st, *(skip the next 2sts, 1Vst in next) x7 times, skip the next 2sts, 1inc in next*; rep from *to* to the end of the round close the round with a slst into the second ch.
Total Vsts: 90
R18: Rep. R10
The YOKE ifor size M is done and you can move to the BODY Section

Size L, XL only
R19: Rep R10

Size L only
To adjust for Size L, we must incorporate 5 additional stitches to finalize the yoke. As of Row 19, we’ve accumulated 90 V-stitches. To determine the stitch count for each repeated section, we divide the total number of stitches (90) by the number of stitches to be added (5). This yields 18, indicating that on Row 20, we’ll distribute 1 V-stitch across the next 17 ch3-sps, followed by 1inc, repeating this sequence 5 times.
R20: Sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next16 ch3-sps, *1Inc in next 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 17 ch3-sps; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 95

The YOKE ifor size L is done and you can move to the BODY Section

Size XL only

R20: Sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 8 ch3-sps, *1Inc in next 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 8 ch3-sps; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 100

To adjust for Size XL, we must incorporate 6 additional stitches to finalize the yoke. As of Row 20, we’ve accumulated 100 V-stitches. To determine the stitch count for each repeated section, we divide the total number of stitches (100) by the number of stitches to be added (6). This yields 16.66, indicating that on Row 21, we’ll distribute 1 V-stitch across the next 15 ch3-sps, followed by 1inc, repeating this sequence 6 times. After repeating the section 6 times we will have 4 more Vsts to work to complete the round;
R21: Sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch,1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next14 ch3-sps, 1Inc in next 3ch-sp,* 1Vst into the next 15 ch3-sps, 1Inc; *rep. until you have 4sts left, 1Vst into the last 4 ch3-sps; close the round with an sl st into the second ch; Total Vsts: 106

The YOKE ifor size XL is done and you can move to the BODY Section

YOKE Size 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL
SHORT ROWS SECTION

We’ll begin with half of the stitches needed for a complete round. With each row, we’ll add 1 Vstitch at the beginning and 1 Vstitch at the end of the row.
The first Vst in a row is ch5 and 1hdc into the same st, where first 2ch count as a hdc and the next 3ch count as the separating chains of the Vst.
Every alternate row, we’ll extend the initial and final stitches’ external legs, employing a chain of 4 instead of 2 at the beginning of the row and a treble crochet instead of a half double crochet at the end of the row.
The first Vst in a row is Ch5

Start: ch 61
R1(increase row): ch5, 1hdc in the 6th st from the hook (first Vst increase), *(skip the next 2sts, 1Vst in next) x3 times, skip the next 2sts, 1inc in next*; rep from *to* 3 more times, (skip the next 2sts, 1Vst in next) x3 times, skip the next 2sts, 1Vst in the last ch-st.
Total Vsts: 25
R2: ch7, 1hdc in the first hdc (Vst increase at the begining of the row with one of the sticthes longer), 1Vst into each of the next 3ch-sps, (1hdc, 3ch, 1tr) into the last st (second ch)
Total Vsts: 27
R3: ch5, 1hdc into the same first st, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp to the end of the row, 1Vst into the 4th ch.
Total Vsts: 29
R4(increase row):ch7, 1hdc in the first hdc (Vst increase at the begining of the row with one of the sticthes longer), (1vst in next 4ch3-sp, 1Inc in next) x 5 times, 1vst in next 4ch3-sp, 1(1hdc, 3ch, 1tr) into the last st (second ch)
Total sts: 36
R5: Rep. R3
Total Vsts: 38
R6: Rep R2
Total Vsts: 40

R7 (Increase Row): ch5, 1hdc in the first hdc (Vst increase at the begining of the row with one of the sticthes longer), (1vst in next 5ch3-sp, 1Inc in next) x 6 times, 1vst in next 4 ch3-sp, 1Vst into the last st (second ch)
Total Vsts: 48
R8:Rep R2
Total Vsts: 50
Following the completion of the short rows, we must increase the number of stitches to complete both the front panel and the round. By the end of Round 8, the increase round, under the condition of a complete round, we should have a total of 70 Vsts
At the end of Round 8, we currently have 50 stitches. To achieve a total of 70 stitches for a complete round, we need to add 20 more Vsts. Considering each Vst consists of 3 stitches, we’ll need to add 20 x 3 = 60 stitches, plus 2 additional stitches (to account for the last separating stitches until the next Vst).

To complete Round 8, chain 62 stitches and slip stitch to close the round into the second chain. Then, turn your work.

R9: slip 3sts, to start your round from the third ch stitch; (ch5, 1hdc) into the same st, skip the next 2 ch sts, *1Vst in next st, skip the next 2 ch sts; *rep. to the end of the chain stitches; continue with 1Vst in each 3ch-sp to the end of the row; close the round with 1slst into the second ch.

With the short rows section now completed, to avoid commencing the round at the front of the blouse, cut the yarn. We’ll then reconnect the yarn at the first Vst of the back panel.

To identify the first Vst of the back panel for reconnecting the yarn, we’ll divide the total number of Vsts by 10, allocating 3/10 for the front and back panels and 2/10 for the sleeves. With 70 stitches total, 1/10 equals 7Vsts, resulting in 21 Vsts for the front and back panels and 14 Vsts for the sleeves.

Considering that we integrated 20 V-stitches to finalize the front panel and round, we will designate these 20 V-stitches as belonging to the front panel. Additionally, we’ll incorporate 2 more V-stitches, 1 before and 1 after these 20 V-stitches, bringing the total to 22 V-stitches for the front panel. Following this, we’ll proceed with 14 V-stitches for the sleeve. The following stitch after completing the sleeve will signify the commencement of the back panel. Place a stitch marker in this st and then reattach the yarn to that stitch.

YOKE Size XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL
Without short rows

If you find it more convenient to work the yoke without incorporating short rows, here’s the pattern to follow:

Yoke foundation row:

Start: ch121
Starting with the second st, 1sc in each st to the end of the row; slst into the first sc to close the round.
Total sts: 120

Actual Yoke:
Work in the round only on the right side, commencing each round in the first 3ch-sp using slip stitches to position your yarn. At the start of every round, begin with 5ch and 1hdc into the same space; consider the first 2ch as the first hdc, while the subsequent 3ch serve as separating chains for the V-stitch.

R1: 5ch, 1hdc in the same st, skip the next 2sts, (1Vst in next st, skip the next 2 sts)x2, 1Inc in next st, *(skip the next 2sts, 1Vst in next) x3 times, skip the next 2sts, 1inc in next*; rep from *to* to the end of the round close the round with a slst into the second ch.
Total Vsts: 50

R2: sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch.
R3: rep. R2

R4 (increase round): sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 4 ch3-sps, *1Inc in next 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 4 ch3-sps; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 60
R5-R6: Rep. R2
R7 (increase round): sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 4 ch3-sps, 1Inc in next 3ch-sp, *1Vst into the next 5 ch3-sps, 1Inc in next; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 70
R8, R9: rep. R2
Beginning from Round 10, the pattern for the yoke remains consistent for both versions: anatomical neckline (with short rows) and regular neckline.

YOKE Size XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL
CONTINUING THE YOKE (both versions)

R10 (increase round): sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 6 ch3-sps, *1Inc in next 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 6ch3-sps; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 80
R11:sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch.

R12: Rep R11
R13 (increase round): sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 6 ch3-sps, 1Inc in next 3ch-sp, *1Vst into the next 7 ch3-sps, 1Inc in next; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 90
R14-R15: Rep. R11
R16 (increase round): sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 8 ch3-sps, *1Inc in next 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 8ch3-sps; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 100
R17-R18: Rep. R11

R19 (increase round): sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 8 ch3-sps, 1Inc in next 3ch-sp, *1Vst into the next 9 ch3-sps, 1Inc in next; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 110
R20-R21: Rep. R11

Size XXL only
To adjust for Size XXL, we must incorporate 4 additional stitches to finalize the yoke. As of Row 21, we’ve accumulated 110 V-stitches. To determine the stitch count for each repeated section, we divide the total number of stitches (110) by the number of stitches to be added (4). This yields 27.5, indicating that on Row 22, we’ll distribute 1 V-stitch across the next 26 ch3-sps, followed by 1inc, repeating this sequence 4 times. After repeating the section 4 times we will have 2 more Vsts to work to complete the round;
R22: Sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch,1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next25 ch3-sps, 1Inc in next 3ch-sp,* 1Vst into the next 26 ch3-sps, 1Inc; *rep. until you have 2sts left, 1Vst into the last 2 ch3-sps; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 114

Sizes 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL only

R22 (increase round): sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 10 ch3-sps, *1Inc in next 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 10ch3-sps; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 120
R23: Rep. R11

Sizes 4XL, and 5XL only

R24: Rep. R11
R25 (increase round): sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 10 ch3-sps, 1Inc in next 3ch-sp, *1Vst into the next 11 ch3-sps, 1Inc in next; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 130

The YOKE for size 4XL is done and you can move to the BODY Section

Sizes 5XL only
R26-R27: Rep. R11
R28 (increase round): sl st into the first 3ch-sp, (5ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 12 ch3-sps, *1Inc in next 3ch-sp, 1Vst into the next 12ch3-sps; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with an sl st into the second ch;
Total Vsts: 140

The YOKE for size 2XL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL is done and you can move to the BODY Section

BODY AND SLEEVES

Prior to beginning work on the Body and Sleeves Sections, it’s necessary to split the YOKE into sleeves and the BODY. This division round remains consistent for both versions, whether it’s an anatomical neckline yoke or a regular yoke.

For the anatomical neckline yoke, it’s important to ensure that the front section of the neckline aligns precisely at the center of the front panel.

Below are the stitch counts per size for each section: front, back, and sleeves:

Size XS: 26Vsts for back and front, 14Vsts for sleeves
Size S: 27Vsts for back and front, 15Vsts for sleeves
Size M: 29Vsts for back and front, 16Vsts for sleeves
Size L: 30Vsts for back, 31Vsts front, 17Vsts for sleeves
Size XL: 33Vsts for back and front, 20Vsts for sleeves
Size XXL: 36Vsts for back and front, 21Vsts for sleeves
Size 3XL: 38Vsts for back and front, 22Vsts for sleeves
Size 4XL: 41Vsts for back and front, 24Vsts for sleeves
Size 5XL: 45Vsts for back and front, 25Vsts for sleeves

For the anatomical neckline, before initiating the splitting round, we will mark the stitches as follows:

Step 1: Begin by marking the stitches for the front neckline. These are the V-stitches added after completing the short rows to complete the round. Mark these stitches at the bottom of the yoke, on the last round.
Size XS: 15Vsts
Sizes S, M, L, and XL: 17Vsts
Sizes XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL: 20 sts
Step 2: From the total number of stitches allocated for the front panel, divide the remaining stitches, and add them before and after these neckline stitches.

For instance, in size XS, where there are a total of 26 V-stitches allocated for the front panel and 15 stitches specifically designated for the neckline, there are 11 additional V-stitches to incorporate. To evenly distribute these stitches, 5 V-stitches will be added before and 6 V-stitches after the neckline, while maintaining the 15 V-stitches in the middle. Utilize stitch markers to mark the entirety of the front panel.

Step 3: Proceed to the next section, the sleeve. Count the indicated number of stitches for the sleeve and place a stitch marker into the next st after the last one; this will mark the beginning of the back panel.
Step 4: Count the indicated stitches for the back panel and place a stitch marker into the last stitch.
The remaining stitches until the end of the row will be the stitches for the second sleeve.
With all sections now marked, we can proceed with the splitting round.
For the regular yoke, initiate the splitting round from your current yarn position; the first stitch will serve as the first stitch of the back panel.

SPLITTING ROUND

Start into the first Vst of the back panel; the numbers are written as follows XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
ch5, 1hdc into the same ch3-sp, 1Vst into the next 25 (26, 28, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40, 44) ch3-sps, ch 11 (11, 11, 11, 14, 17, 17, 17, 17), skip the next 14 (15, 16, 17, 20, 21, 22, 24, 25) ch3-sps, 1Vst in next 26 (27, 29, 30, 33, 36, 38, 41, 45) ch3-sps, ch 11 (11, 11, 11, 14, 17, 17, 17, 17), skip the next 14 (15, 16, 17, 20, 21, 22, 24, 25) ch3-sps; close the round with a slst into the second chain.

BODY

Work in the round only on the right side;
Start every round into the first ch3-sp; use slip stitches to position your yarn.
At the start of every round, begin with 5ch and 1hdc into the same space; consider the first 2ch as the first hdc, while the subsequent 3ch serve as separating chains for the V-stitch.
R1: (5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp, until the armpit ch, skip 2ch-sts, (1Vst in next, skip 2ch) x 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) times, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp until the next armpit ch, skip 2ch-sts, (1Vst in next, skip 2ch) x 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) times; close the round with a slst into the second chain;
R2: 5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp, to the end of the round; close the round with a slst into the second ch;
Rep. R2 until you have 25 rounds or until you reach the desired length;

Continue with the EDGING section

SLEEVES

Work in the round only on the right side;
Start every round into the first ch3-sp; use slip stitches to position your yarn.
At the start of every round, begin with 5ch and 1hdc into the same space; consider the first 2ch as the first hdc, while the subsequent 3ch serve as separating chains for the V-stitch.

Reconnect the yarn at the armpit;
Into the armpit V-stitches, you will work 1 V-stitch into the bottom of the V-stitches of the Body.

When transitioning from the armpit stitches to the sleeve stitches along the body side row, work one additional V-stitch into the body side row
R1: (5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst into each 3ch-sp (as explained above); close the round with a slst into the second chain;
At the end of R1 you should have 19 (20, 21, 22, 27, 28, 29, 31, 32) Vsts

R2: (5ch, 1hdc) into the first 3ch-sp, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp; close the round with a slst into the second chain;
Rep. R2 until you have 39 rounds (for full length) or until you reach the desired length.

FLARED SLEEVES.

For the flared sleeves, work the sleeve length up to the elbow, and then increase on the next row. After increasing, continue working up to the desired length.

Rep. R2 up to R16 (or longer depending on the desired length)
R17: (5ch, 1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) into the first ch3-sp, *1Vst into the next 2 ch3-sps, 1Inc in next ch3-sp; *rep. the section as many times as possible based on the stitch count; finish the round with the remaining V-stitches. Close the round with a slst into the second chain.
R18; (5ch, 1hdc) into the first ch3-sp, 1Vst in each of the ch3-sps to the end of the round; close the round with a slst into the second ch.
Rep R18 until you reach the desired length.

Continue with the EDGING section

EDGING

R1 (only for body and sleeves edging)
Start into the first 3ch-sp;
1ch, 1sc into the same sp, 2ch, *1sc in next 3ch-sp, 2ch; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with a slst into the first sc.
R2 (first round for neckline): use a 4mm hook size
1ch, 1sc into the same st, 1sc into each st around;
*for the anatomical neckline, when working into the side rows, work 2sc into each side row.

EDGING VERSION 1:
R3-R4: rep R2
R5: 1ch, 1slst, *ch1, 1slst in next st. *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with a slst into the first ch;
EDGING VERSION 2:
R3-R5: 1ch, 1slst in each st to the end of the round; close the round with a slst into the first ch;
Fasten off.