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Bykaterina

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Since last year I felt in love with the mosaic crochet and I tried different color combinations and motifs until now, but this Butterfly Mosaic Pillow is actually the first mosaic crochet project that I manage to finish and I am happy to finally share it with you.

I was thinking that, if you are new to this technique is better to start with something smaller and a pillow is perfect, because we never have to many decorative pillows, isn’t it?

I chose to make squares for the front side of the pillow to be easier to exercise this technique and to work with less stitches for the beginning.

Sure, if you don’t like the idea of working with squares this pillow cover, you will find indication in the pattern how to work it in rows.

I simply love this technique, how you can add texture and a beautiful color work to your project without having to work with more colors in a row. Less ends to wave in, easier not to tangle all the yarn.

But enough talking, let’s see what it’s all about:

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Materials you will need

  • Yarn
    • Category 4 ( Medium Weight Yarn)
  • Crochet Hook
    • 4 mm cable
  • You will need a yarn needle for assembling and to wave in ends
  • Scissors
  • 40 cm zipper (optional)
  • Inner cushion 40 cm/40 cm

Pattern notes

This Butterfly Mosaic Pillow pattern uses techniques like mosaic crochet and single crochet

Skill Level required is intermediate. Any beginner who experienced before some color work can make this pillow.

The construction is simple. We will make 2 squares and then assemble by joining 3 sides. One side will remain open to sew the zipper.

Front side of the pillow is made from 4 individual squares, worked using mosaic technique, joined together.

Back side is worked just in single crochet, alternating 2 rows in one color and 2 in the second color.

Final measurements

The pillow cover measures 42 cm / 42 cm

About Mosaic Crochet

This technique gives you the opportunity to crochet two color patterns without changing yarn in one row or round. You simple can connect rows or rounds by skipping a stitch and “filling” the skipped stitch with a double crochet 2 rows or rounds later with the alternate colored yarn.

Before start to work with this technique, you have to learn first how to read a mosaic crochet chart.

A mosaic chart will look something like this:

  • The Pattern  is crocheted from bottom to top and from right to left.
  • Every chart row represents two crochet rows in the same color.
  • Usually the mosaic is worked with 2 different colors
  • Each square represents one stitch. If a Yarn B stitch appears in a Yarn A row you chain 1 and skip the stitch. Same when a yarn A square appears in a Yarn B row. Later you will “fill” the skipped space with a double crochet
  • Second round is always: one sc in every sc and dc, a chain 1 over every chain 1.
  • Color changes are done in the last stitch of the row or round with two loops on hook.
  • First chain in a row or round does not count as stitch

How much yarn do you need?

To make this Butterfly Mosaic Pillow I used Concept Cotton Merino by Katia in colors Mint Green Black and Pastel green. I recommend to use 2 contrasting colors so the end result to be the one expected.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

For the entire pillow I used 3 skeins of each color. 1 skein has 50 grams and 105 meters.

 

Abbreviations used in this pattern

Ch – chain

Sc- single crochet

Mdc – mosaic double crochet

St(s) – Stitch (es)

Mosaic Double Crochet

The Mosaic double crochet (mdc) is a double crochet worked in a skipped stitch two rows below, in front of ch2 spaces (front of work).

The mdc goes always in same color round or row, except of course for the first round or row with a new color.

Pattern

Before starting to crochet this beautiful pillow, you have to know, that the front side can be worked in rows if you don’t want to work with squares.

You just have to repeat the chart twice in a row. After completing the butterfly motifs, repeat one more time the same pattern.

To make this pillow you can follow the chart or the written pattern below.

We will consider background color, color A and butterfly color, color B.

Row b, will be always the wrong side row and it will have the same number as the right side row.

(for example R1a will be the right side row, and the turning row on the wrong side  will be R1b.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

In color A (pastel green)

Ch 29 +1 and start in second st from the hook

R1a| 1 sc in each st to the end of the row. Ch 1 and turn

R1b| 1 sc in each st. Change to color B (Mint Green Black) in the last st.  Ch 1 and turn.

R2a| 1 sc in first 2 sts, ch 6, skip next 3 sts, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch 4, skip next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 6, skip next 3 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

R2b| 1 sc in each sc, ch 2 over any ch 2. Change to color A in the last st, ch 1 and turn.

R3a| 1 sc in first 2 sts, 1 mdc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next, ch 2, skip next st, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip next st, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 mdc in next 3 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts, ch 2 and turn.

R3b| 1 sc on the top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color B in the last st, ch 1 and turn.

R4a| 1 sc in first st, ch 4, skip the next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip the next st, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 6, skip next 3 sts, 1 sc in next st, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next st, ch 6, skip next 3 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip next 2 sts, 1 sc in last st. Ch 1 and turn.

R4b| 1 sc on top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color A in last st, ch 1 and turn.

R5a| 1 sc in first 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 mdc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 mdc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2 skip 1 st, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st.

R5b| 1 sc on top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color B in last st, ch 1 and turn.

R6a|1 sc in first 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 mdc in next, 1 sc in next st, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in last 2 sts, ch 1 and turn.

R6b| 1 sc on top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color A in last st, ch 1 and turn.

R7a|1 sc in first 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next t, 1 sc in net, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next, ch 2, skp 1, 1 sc in next, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 mdc in next, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 mdc in next, 1 sc in last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn

R7b| 1 sc on top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color B in last st, ch 1 and turn.

R8a| 1 sc in 1st st, ch 4, skip next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 1 mdc in next, 1 sc in next, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next, ch 4, skip next 2 sts, 1 sc in last st. ch 1 and turn.

R8b| 1 sc on top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color A in last st, ch 1 and turn.

R9a| 1 sc in first st, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next 2 srs, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in last st. ch 1 and turn

R9b| 1 sc on top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color B in last st, ch 1 and turn.

R10a| 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 6, skip next 3 sts, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 6, skip next 3 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

R10b| 1 sc on top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color A in last st, ch 1 and turn.

R11a| 1 sc in first 2 sts, 1 mdc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next 3 st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next 3 sts, 1 sc in last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

R11b| 1 sc on top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color B in last st, ch 1 and turn.

R12a| 1 sc in first st, ch 4, skip next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in last st. ch 1 and turn.

R12b| 1 sc on top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color A in last st, ch 1 and turn.

R13a| 1 sc in first st, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next, ch 6, skip next 3 sts, 1 sc in next, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in last st. ch 1 and turn.

R13b| 1 sc on top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color B in last st, ch 1 and turn.

R14a| 1 sc in first 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

R14b| 1 sc on top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color A in last st, ch 1 and turn.

R15a| 1 sc in first 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in last 2 sts. Ch 1 and turn.

R15b| 1 sc on top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color B in last st, ch 1 and turn.

R16a| 1 sc in first st, ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next st, ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in last st. Ch 1 and turn.

R16b| 1 sc on top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color A in last st, ch 1 and turn.

R17a| 1 sc in first st, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1, 1 mdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in last st. ch 1 and turn.

R17b| 1 sc on top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color B in last st, ch 1 and turn.

R18a| 1 sc in first st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next st, ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next, 1 mdc in next st, ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next, ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in next st, ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 1 mdc in next st, ch 4, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch 2, skip 1, 1 sc in last st. Ch 1 and turn.

R18b| 1 sc on top of each sc and mdc, ch 2 over each ch 2. Change to color A in last st, ch 1 and turn.

R19a| 1 sc in first st, 1 mdc in next, 1 sc in next st, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, 1 mdc in next 2 ts, 1 sc in next st. 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 1 mdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in nexr st, 1 mdc in next st, 1 sc in last st.

R19b| 1 sc in each st to the end of the row.

Fasten off.

 

1 square is finished.

We will add a sc border all around in the color B.

Start the border in the middle of the last row. Work on the right side of your work.

Make 1 sc to the corner, in the st in corner make 3 sc, in the side row sts work *3sc in next 3 side row sts, skip 1 side row st.* Repeat to the next corner.

Work in the same way each side of the square.

Repeat the pattern for the other 3 squares. I made 2 squares with light green as a background and 2 squares using the darker green as background.

After you have all 4 squares done, join them using mattress stitch.

Back panel

Ch 61 in of the 2 color.

R1| 1 sc in each st to the end of the row. Ch 1 ad turn

R2| 1 sc in each stitch. Change to other color in the last st, ch 1 and turn.

Repeat R1 and R2 until you have in total 68 rows or until the back panel has the same length as front panel.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Assembling

Lay both panel, one over the other with the wrong side inside.

Start in the top left corner. Join the yarn (any color you want) and work sc stitch around to the top right corner. Make sure you stitch together both sides.

Because back panel has more side rows sts, then the front panel, you have to work 7 sc in each of the back panel st, and then skip 1. Don’t work in each st all along because you might end up with a few sts left from the back panel.

Let the top side open and sew a zipper at the end. This step is optional. You can stitch all sides if you don’t want a detachable pillow cover.

To finish

Wave in all ends and insert the inner pillow. Place it in your favorite corner of your house.

below you can find the video tutorial:

Hope you will enjoy making this Butterfly Mosaic Pillow. Can’t wait to see your color combinations.

 

 

 

 

 

This Sunshine Sweater is one of my favorite design until now. This is maybe because is knitted and I don’t have yet to many knitted designs.

I wanted for so long to knit a sweater like this and I am so proud and happy that I finally did it.

Hope you all enjoy and love this pattern as much as I do.

You have to know from the beginning that I included in this pattern some indications about how you can customize this sweater to your own body, what to measure and how to calculate to your needs different sections of the sweater.

Hope you will find these info useful and if not you can just scroll down to the pattern. 


You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Materials you will need

  • Yarn
    • Category 3 ( Light weight yarn; DK)
  • Needles
    • 3.5 mm cable needles

I used interchangeable cables needles: 100 cm cable. Optional you can use one extra cable for the stitches you are not working with (when splitting for neckline)

  • You will need a yarn needle for assembling and to wave in ends
  • Scissors

 Pattern notes

This Sunshine Sweater pattern uses techniques like stockinette stitch, elastic ribbing (knit 1, purl 1), increase, decrease

Skill Level required is beginner. You don’t need any experienced skills to make this sweater, only a lot of patience.

This Sunshine Sweater is worked from cuff to cuff working the back and front panels at ones. When we are getting to the neck line, we split the number of stitches in half and work the 2 panels individual. Then we are joining again and working the other half of the sweater.

The pattern is available in 8 sizes, from Small to 5 X Large and is written in US terms

Final measurements

Final measurements of the sweater are listed below.

Neck Line a: 20 cm (21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27)

Hem b: 43 cm (48, 53, 58, 63, 68, 73, 78)

Sleeve length c: 43 cm (43, 43, 43, 43, 43, 41, 39)

Length d: 52 cm (53, 54, 55, 57, 60, 60, 60)

Cuff to Cuff e: 160 cm (165, 170, 175, 180, 185, 185, 185)

This measurements will fit:

To Fit cm S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL 5XL
Bust 43 48 53 58 63 68 73 78

 

How much yarn do you need?

For this Sunshine Sweater I used Lang Bloom, from Lang Yarns. This yarn is 70% Cotton, 18% Viscose and 12% Linen.

Each cake has 150 grams and approximate 450 m

This is a self-striping yarn, I started the first cake pulling the yarn from inside and the second one from outside.

For each size you will approximate need:

About the stitch pattern.

The Sunshine Sweater is worked entirely in stokinette stitch except the cuffs and the ribbed edging at the bottom, which are worked in elastic ribbing (knit 1, purl 1)

Abbreviations used in this pattern

  • K – knit
  • P – purl
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Inc – Increase (Make 1 right and Make 1 left method; you can find a useful video tutorial here )
  • Dec – Decrease (k2 tog)
  • Sl st – slip sttch – always slip the first st

Gauge

  • 21 sts = 10 cm
  • 29 rows = 10 cm

*In stockinette stitch

How to measure and adjust the pattern in case you need/want it.

I added this part to the pattern, because not all of us has standard measurements and I want to help you to customize this sweater to your own body.

Scroll down for the pattern in case you want to skip this part.

Before to start any measurements, you have to make a swatch. Work a few stitches and rows, a square of about 10/10 cm.

This sweater is worked from cuff to cuff.

Measure your cuff to cuff length, or measure the neck to cuff and multiply by 2.

This length that you have includes the sleeves length and bust width.

Because we are increasing from the cuff, the bust circumference of the sweater will be wide enough to fit, but we have to make sure that the hem of the sweater will be wide enough to fit our bust when dressed.

The sweater is designed with the bottom having the standard bust width for each size.

To adjust this in case you need that the bottom of the sweater to be wider, measure your bigger part of your body, bust or waist.

Then from the cuff to cuff length, you have to decrease the bust or waist width; Divide by 2 and this will be the length of the sleeve.

To put all in a math formula:

Sleeve length = (cuff to cuff length – bust or waist width)/2

Now measure your cuff circumference. Having the swatch you will know with how many sts to start.

Work the elastic ribbing for the cuff, then you will start increasing at the beginning and at the end of the row only on the right side rows. Keep increasing until you have the sleeve length (from the formula above)

Fold the piece in half, horizontally, and measure from top to bottom. This is your sweater length. To add extra length you will have to add some stitches on each side.

After adding the extra sts, you will start working on the body of the sweater. From the width you need you will have to decrease the width for your neck line. Divide the result by 2 and this will be the length you will have to work before splitting the work in 2 to make the neck/head hole.

After working separately the back and front to create the neck hole, you will have to work in the mirror, what you did before.

After neck hole, join and work the same number of rows you did from the length extension until the neck hole. Then cast off the extra sts you added for length.

Start decrease with 1 st, at the beginning and at the end of the row, only on the right side rows until you have the same number of sts as the one you start with.

Make the elastic ribbing.

Fold the piece horizontally and sew the sides.

Next, you will have to work the bottom ribbing. This can be worked after assembling or before if you don’t want to work in circular rounds.

Pick up sts from the bottom of the sweater. Insert needle in each side row, yarn over and pull out a loop/ st.  Continue like this until you all the sts around the hem.

Work for as many rows as you want the elastic ribbing.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Pattern

Numbers for sizes M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL and 5 XL are written between

1st Sleeve

Cast on 50 (54, 58, 66, 74, 84, 88, 96) sts

R1: k1, p1 to the end of the row

R2 – 40: repeat R1

R41: sl st, Inc, k all sts to the end except last 2 sts, 1 Inc, k the last st. Turn

R42: p all sts to the end of the row.

Repeat R41 and R42 until you have in total (not counting the cuff’s rows:

  • S – 125 rows
  • M – 125 rows
  • L – 125 rows
  • XL – 125 rows
  • 2XL – 125 rows
  • 3XL – 125 rows
  • 4XL – 119 rows
  • 5XL – 113 rows

*Mention

Because this sweater is designed from cuff to cuff, on size 4XL and 5XL, the sleeves has to be a little shorter, to have a bigger bust width and to get to the cuff to cuff length.

Body

After finishing the last row of the sleeves add 22 sts (knit the last st, and put the st from the right needle to the left needle. Repeat until you have 22 sts or the needed number of sts to get to the desired length of the sweater)

R1: p all sts to the end (including the extra sts). At the end of the row cast on 22 sts and turn.

R2: k all sts.

Repeat R1 and R2 until you have in total:

  • S – 35 rows
  • M – 41 rows
  • L – 49 rows
  • XL – 55 rows
  • 2XL – 59 rows
  • 3XL – 65 rows
  • 4XL – 69 rows
  • 5XL – 75 rows

Next, we will split the worked piece in 2 and work a few rows to leave the neck hole.

You can transfer half of the sts on a strand of yarn or you can use an extra cable if you are working with interchangeable cable needles as I did.

Take the working needle from the current cable, and place a stopper instead. Attach the new cable to the needle and start working the half of the total number of sts. Take of the left hand needle and attach it to the new cable and put a stopper instead. Continue working the rows needed for the neck hole:

  • S – 57 rows
  • M – 59 rows
  • L – 61 rows
  • XL – 63 rows
  • 2XL – 67 rows
  • 3XL – 69 rows
  • 4XL – 73 rows
  • 5XL – 75 rows

Attach the needles to the first cable and work the other side. The row will start from the middle, because you have to work in the same direction as the first row of the first side. Make sure you are making the same number of rows as for the first one.

Next row will be on the wrong side and you will have to join both sides and start working the whole piece again.

R92 (100, 110, 118, 126, 134, 142, 150): p all sts to the half except the last one, p the first st from the other half and then turn and purl the last st (cross the sts to make the join). P all sts to the end of the row.

R93 (101, 111, 119, 127, 135, 143, 151): k all sts

Repeat previous 2 rows until you have in total for the body:

  • S – 127 rows
  • M – 141 rows
  • L – 157 rows
  • XL – 171 rows
  • 2XL – 185 rows
  • 3XL – 199 rows
  • 4XL – 211 rows
  • 5XL – 223 rows

Second Sleeve

R1: Cast 0ff first 22 sts, k all sts to the end of the row.

R2: cast off first 22 sts, p all sts to the end of the row.

R3: sl 1st st, 1 dec (k 2 tog), k all sts except the last 3 sts, 1 dec, k last st.

R4: p all sts

Repeat R3 and R4 until you have the same number of rows for the sleeve as for the first one, or until you have the same number of sts as the one you start with.

Last 40 rows: *k 1, p 1. Repeat to the end of the row.

Cast off.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Assembling

Fold the piece in half and sew the sides of the sweater, starting from the cuff and finishing at the hem.

Bottom Ribbing

You can work this ribbing before assembling if you don’t want to work in circular rounds.

Pick up the sts around the bottom of the sweater. Insert the needle into the side row and pull out a loop/st. continue like this until you complete the entire hem.

Work as many rounds as you want in elastic ribbing (*k1, p1 to the end of the round)

To finish

Wave in all ends and block to measurements.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Find a video tutorial here

I am so excited to share with you some thoughts and happenings related to this beautiful Oasis Mandala Baby Blanket along with some information about this CAL.

I was so happy when Katia asked me if I want to design a blanket for this CAL, you can not imagine! I was really jumping around like a child. Why? First because I just love their yarn, second , and I won’t lie, because it is a great opportunity for me as a designer to make my work known. Even if you make this like a business or simply like a hobby or both, we all want that our hard work to be seen and appreciated.

It took me a while  to accept that this is what I want to do, to be a crochet and knit designer, because at first I wasn’t that proud about this, being a house mum, surrounded by yarn almost all day long.  Then, after my makes started to be seen and more and more people showed interest for  my designs, I started to feel more like me! 

photo credit katia.com

And now, this is happening! I am the designer behind this beautiful Oasis Mandala Blanket and every time I see a photo with it I can’t believe that I made this  😅😅.

Believe it or not, this  is the first blanket that I ever made and design, but for sure it won’t be the last. I was telling you at the beginning, that I was super happy when Katia asked me to design this blanket, well my excitement lasted for a few minutes, because soon after that I became anxious about this project and if I will be able to design something that people will want to make. I was so anxious that this Oasis Mandala was actually my third try, which was knew to me.

Oasis Mandala CAL

photo credit katia.com

Yep, after 2 failed attempts I was ready to give up and I remember how I just took one ball of yarn and the hook and starting to work something. Already I no longer thought that I would succeed in completing this project. I didn’t looked ahead, didn’t plan what stitch pattern I will use or which color. Everything came from my heart and with every round I was amazed about what was coming out.

This blanket has in it a lot of my fears, but also of my joy and passion. It was “born” from me as a failed person and by the time I was finishing it, I was an enthusiast and optimist. That’s why this blanket represents a lot for me. It was my therapy and this was the most important thing that I won during the making process. With it I leaned that this crochet thing is more then a hobby or business, is my balance, is my medicine is  my way to happiness and fulfillment. 

Because of what I experienced while making this Oasis Mandala Blanket and because I want you all to experience the incredible sensation of creating something spectacular with your own hands, I encourage you to join Katia Crochet-Along group on Facebook because there is where this crochet pattern will be shared.

You may find this blanket  difficult to make, but you will see that all the rounds are in basic stitches or variations of a basic stitch and it will be a great project to improve your crochet skills and learn new stitches.

The Oasis Mandala CAL will start first week of April and the kits are available during the month of March in Katia Shops and Katia.com.

The Oasis Mandala Kit was prepared with care by AMPANS, an entity that supports people with intellectual disabilities or in situations of vulnerability.  The kit includes the yarn you will need to make this beautiful blanket and information about where, when and how to join the CAL. You will also need a 4 mm / G6 (US) crochet hook, 8 stitch markers, a wool sewing needle and scissors.

 

Katia Basic Merino Kit

photo credit katia.com

If you want one more reason to join this CAL, well at the end of it,  Katia will have a giveaway between all the participants who made their baby blanket with the Oasis Mandala Kit. What’s the prize? 3 kits of Katia yarns for making their next CAL. To enter the prize giveaway you only have to share an image of your blaket with the group. 

And because I just mentioned the word Giveaway, go check my Facebook Page and Instagram Account, because starting with Today and until 21st of March you can enter and win one Oasis Mandala Kit sponsored by Katia.

And with all these being said, thank you for reading this and can’t wait to see your Oasis Mandala Blankets and to read your thoughts about it!!