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Bykaterina

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I had the sketch for this Diamonds Sweater – Dress for years and I am so happy that everything I needed for this design to come ou,t lined up so perfectly.

 This design wasn’t something planned, and everything happened in a second.

First, when I randomly looked on YouTube for some inspiration, I found this interesting stitch, which I don’t know the exact name, but because it looks similar to the honeycomb stitch in knitting and Tunisian crochet, I think we can call it the same.

Shortly after that, Amazing Wool asked me if I want some yarn that they sell to make something with it. At first, I chose another yarn, but it was out of stock, and then I chose this Soave by Lana Mondial. I was amazed about how airy and light is this yarn and about the yardage in 50 grams ball (almost 240 meters).

The third trigger to start working on this design was a poll that I made asking for your opinion on what you would like to see. And you guessed it: a sweater dress. After months, the pattern is finally here and I am really happy about it.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing from this page I may receive some commissions. This won’t cost you anything, no additional costs for you as the commission is paid by the merchant.
In this way you support me and I will be extremely grateful.

I hope you will like this new design as much as I do! 

So let’s see what you need and how to make this dress.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: DK weight yarn (size 3)
• Crochet Hook:

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Diamonds Sweater Dress has an interesting construction with batwings sleeves incorporated into the body!

There are only 2 identical panels for the back and front pieces that are then assembled! The sleeves are worked at the end in continuous rounds into the sleeves opening.

For an easier understanding of how I designed this dress, I divided one piece into 3 sections. They are not workes separately. Both panels are worked as a single piece.

Section 1: This section is the increase section and will also give you the length of the dress. This means, that if you want to adjust the length, this is the section in which you should do it.

If you want to adjust the length you need to take into consideration the total number of added stitches and divide them into the desired number of rows.

Section 2: This section is the “sleeve opening” section. Here you will stop increasing and work the stitch pattern into straight rows.
Section 3: This section is the armhole depth section. Here you will have to decrease so that the dress takes a nice shape around your shoulders and arms.
Section 4: This section is the sleeves section. This one is the last section that will be worked on after assembling the dress.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

 



MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Diamonds Sweater Dress Pattern is available in 8 sizes from Small up to 5XL. The model is 168 cm tall and wears size Small
Bottom width a: 45 cm (50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80)
Length to the sleeve opening b: 50 cm (50, 50, 50, 50, 50, 50, 50)
Bust Width c: 87 cm (92, 98, 102, 109, 113, 117, 123)
Sleeve opening d: 12 cm (13, 14, 16, 19, 20, 22, 24)
Armhole Depth e: 24 cm (27, 27, 30, 30, 33, 33, 33)
Cross Back f: 44 cm (48, 50, 50, 52, 52, 53, 53)
Neckline g: 24 cm (26, 26, 28, 28, 29, 29, 29)
Sleeve circ h: 24 cm (26, 28, 32, 38, 40, 44, 48)
Length i: 85 cm (91, 92, 96, 99, 104, 106, 108)

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

How much yarn do you need?

I used for this sample, Soave by Lana Mondial in color 846, given by Amazing Wool 

This is a mix of Merino wool, Baby Alpaca, and microfiber.
Each ball has 50 grams and approximately 240 meters.
This particular yarn has more of a fingering weight yarn length. The thread is thicker, which gives a less wpi (wraps per inch) than a fingering weight yarn)

Here are some other yarn suggestions as I made a research to see which are better substitutes for this particular yarn in case this one is difficult to find:

Lang Yarns Novena
Lang Yarns Nova
Drops Sky
Katia yoga
Katia Lagom.

You can use any other DK weight yarn and the end result will be similar only that havier than my actual sample (considering that any other DK yarn can have between 120 – 150 meters in 50 grams)

You can also work with 1 strand of fingering weight yarn and 1 of Mohair. It can be an alternative that will work.

For each size you will need:

1800 m (2000, 2280, 2620, 2980, 3350, 3650, 4020)
Mondial Soave: 8 (9, 10, 11, 13, 14, 16, 17) balls

ABBREVIATIONS

ch – chain
sc – sc
FPsc – front post single crochet
csc – centered single crochet
scblo – single crochet in the back loop only
Inc – increase
Dec – decrease
ss – slip stitch
R – rows
** – repeated section.

*TENSION

Using 6.5 mm needles in the stitch pattern used
Before blocking
11 sts = 10 cm
18 rows = 10cm
After blocking
9.5 sts = 10 cm
16 rows = 10 cm

*when making the gauge swatch, wash it according to the recommendation on the yarn label, and block it. This will give a more accurate result on how the fabric will stretch in the end.

 


STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The Diamonds Sweater Dress is worked in Honeycomb Crochet Stitch pattern.
This crochet pattern is a combination of single crochet stitches and front post single crochet stitches.

In the PDF version of this pattern, you will find a couple of stitch charts representing the increase section and decrease section.

For the sleeves, I chose a ribbing stitch pattern, that is worked in the round by alternating 1 centered single crochet with 1 single crochet in the back loop only.
Centered single crochet: work as a regular sc, but insert the hook not under the 2 loops on top, but between the 2 bars that form the stitch, right in the middle of the st.

For edging, we will work 2 rounds: first in single crochet and the second in slip stitches.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Honeycomb Crochet Stitch Pattern

ch multiple of 2

R1: starting in the second st, 1sc in each st until the end of the row. 1ch and turn
R2: 1sc in first st, *1sc into the corespondent ch st, 1 row below, 1sc in next st. *rep, until the end of the row.
R3: 1 sc in next 2sts, *1fpsc around the left leg of the previous st, and right leg of the next st, 1sc in next st. *repeat until the end of the row, 1sc in last st.
R4: *1sc into the space under the corespondent st, 2 rows below. 1sc in the next st *rep until the end of the row; 1sc into the space under the corespondent st, 2 rows below
R5: *1sc, *1fpsc around the left leg of the previous st, and right leg of the next st, 1sc in next st. *repeat until the end of the row, 1sc in last st.
R6: *1sc, 1sc into the space under the corespondent st, 2 rows below. *rep until the end of the row, 1sc in the last st

Rep. R3 – R6 until you complete the desired length

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

 

PATTERN NOTES

  • work the pieces flat; turn after each row
  • work 1ch at the end of each row; 1ch does not count as first sc
  • when counting rows, 1 diamond = 4 rows
  • use stitch markers at the beginning of each section (see construction diagram) to be easier to track the rows number

INSTRUCTIONS

Numbers for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL are written between brackets; if not the pattern applies to all sizes.

BACK PANEL (repeat the same pattern for the front panel)

Section 1 (Increasing section)
Increase at every 4 rows (on row4, 8, 12…) with 1st at the beginning and 1 at the end)
Start: ch44 (48, 54, 58, 64, 68, 72, 78) sts
R1: starting in the second st, 1sc in each st until the end of the row. 1ch and turn
R2: 1sc in first st, *1sc into the corespondent ch st, 1 row below, 1sc in next st. *rep, until the end of the row.
R3: 1 sc in next 2sts, *1fpsc around the left leg of the previous st, and right leg of the next st, 1sc in next st. *repeat until the end of the row, 1sc in last st.
R4: (1sc, 1sc into the space under the corespondent st, 2 rows below) into the first st, *1sc in next st, 1sc into the space under the corespondent st, 2 rows below into the next st. *repeat until you have 1 st left, (1sc into the space under the corespondent st, 2 rows below, 1sc) into the last st.

R5:rep R3
R6: *1sc into the space under the corespondent st, 2 rows below, 1sc in next st.*rep. until you have 1 st left, into the space under the corespondent st, 2 rows below into the last st.
R7: *1sc in the next st, 1fpsc around the left leg of the previous st, and right leg of the next st. *rep. until you have 1 st left, 1sc into the last st.
R8:(1sc into the space under the corespondent st, 2 rows below and 1sc) into the first st, *1sc into the space under the corespondent st, 2 rows below, 1sc in next st. *rep. until you have 1 st left, (1sc and 1sc into the space under the corespondent st, 2 rows below) into the last st.
R9:rep. R7
R10: *1sc in next st, 1sc into the space under the corespondent st, 2 rows below. *rep. until you have 1 st left, 1sc in the last st.
R11:rep. R3
R12: Rep. R4.
Rep. from R5 to R12 until you have in total 80 rows (for all sizes). The last row is an increased row.

At the end of row 80, you will have in total 83 (87, 93, 97, 103, 107, 111, 117)
At every 4 rows, you added 2 sts.

SECTION 2 (SLEEVES OPENING)

Continue working without increasing 19 (21, 23, 26, 30, 33, 36, 38) more rows.
You will have in total: 99 (101, 103, 106, 110, 113, 116, 118) rows.
Place a stitch marker at the beginning of Section 2, to be easier to track the rows.

SECTION 3 (ARMHOLE DEPTH)

In this section, we will start decreasing

For some sizes, you will need to adjust the decreasing pattern as you will need to decrease less or more stitches than this pattern 1 by 1.
Also for some cases, the decrease stitch might be reversed as there are more types of decreases
Dec.1: sc2tog – second sc into the space under the corespondent st 2 rows below.
Dec.2: sc2tog – first sc into the space under the corespondent st 2 rows below.
Dec 3: sc2tog – both sts are regular sc
Dec 4: sc2tog – the second will be an FPsc around the left leg of the previous st, and the right leg of the next st.
Dec 5: sc2tog – first st will be an FPsc around the left leg of the previous st, and right leg of the next st.

R1: *1sc in the next st, 1fpsc around the left leg of the previous st, and right leg of the next st. *rep. until you have 1 st left, 1sc into the last st.
R2: Dec 1, *1sc in next st, 1sc into the space under the corespondent st 2 rows below. *rep until you have 3 sts left, 1sc, 1dec2.
Rep. R1 and R2 until you have in total:
38 (26, 38, 42, 46, 54, 52, 46) rows.
For size S and 3XL, section 3 is done

Sizes M, L, and XL only
For the rest of the section, for these sizes only we will change the decrease pattern into 2 by 1. This means that we will have 2 rows without decreasing and 1 decrease row.
Because the last row was a wrong side row, we will decrease now on the right side row.
R27 (39, 43) RS: rep. R1
R28 (40, 44) WS: *1sc in next st, 1sc into the space under the corespondent stitch 2 rows below. *rep until you have 1 st left, 1sc into the last st.
R29 (41, 45): sc2tog, *1fpsc around the left leg of the previous st, and right leg of
the next st, 1sc in next st. *repeat until you have 3 sts left, FPsc around the left leg of the previous st, and right leg of
the next st, sc2tog.
R30 (42, 46): rep R28 (40, 44)
R31 (43, 47): 1 sc in next 2sts, *1fpsc around the left leg of the previous st, and right leg of the next st, 1sc in next st. *repeat until the end of the row, 1sc in last st.
R32(44, 48): sc2tog, * 1sc into the space under the corespondent stitch 2 rows below, 1sc in the next st. *rep until you have 3 sts left, 1sc into the space under the corespondent stitch 2 rows below, sc2tog.

For sizes L and XL the section is done.
For size M, continue working in the same pattern 2 by 1 until you have in total 44 rows.

Sizes 2XL, 4XL and 5XL
For these sizes on the last rows, you will decrease on each row, 1 st at the beginning and 1 st at the end of the row.
R47 (53, 47): Dec. 4, *1sc in the next st, 1fpsc around the left leg of the previous st, and right leg of the next st. *rep. until you have 3 sts left, 1sc in next st, Dec. 5.

R48 (54, 48): Dec. 2, *1sc into the space under the corespondent st 2 rows below, 1sc in the next st. *rep until you have 3 sts left, sc into the space under the corespondent st 2 rows below, Dec.1.
For sizes 2XL and 4XL, Section 3 is done.
For size 5XL work in the same decrease pattern 6 more rows, until you have 54 rows.
At the end of section 3, the panel is done.
You should have in total: 137 (145, 147, 154, 158, 167, 170, 172) rows.
Stitches left after decreasing: 45 (49, 51, 51, 53, 53, 54, 54) sts

Next, use 2 stitch markers to mark the neck line: 23 (25, 25, 27, 27, 27, 28, 28) sts.

ASSEMBLING

Before stitching the panels together, block them according to the measurements.

Using the Mattress stitch technique, stitch both panels on the sides, leaving only the neckline and sleeves opened.

SLEEVES

Work the sleeves in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the first st.

Rejoin yarn.
R1: 1ch, 1sc into each side row.
Total sts: 38 (42, 46, 52, 60, 66, 72, 76)
R2: *1csc, 1scblo. *rep. until the end of the round.
Rep. R2 until you have in total: 23 (24, 24, 24, 22, 22, 20, 18) rounds or until you get to the desired length.

EDGING

Work the edging around the neckline, sleeves, and bottom
R1: 1sc in each st around
R2: 1ss in each st around.

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

And? How is it? Will you try to make one? Don’t forget to tag me in your post because I would love to see your versions.

Until next time, Happy Crochet! or Knitting 🙂

While ago I was trying to figure out how to play with short rows and recreate in crochet some of the classic knitted sweaters. I got many remarks from people who knit, why I am trying to make crochet look like knitting and don’t simply knit. Well, I could knit too, but not all of us can also knit. And maybe if you are only crocheting you will like to know how to make a sweater that looks like knit.

I also know, that are so many crochet designers that are focused only on finding and designing clothes that look knit, and I don’t want to do that. It was a challenge for me to design a sweater like this which I am happy I completed. 🙂

 

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing from this page I may receive some commissions. This won’t cost you anything, no additional costs for you as the commission is paid by the merchant.
In this way you support me and I will be extremely grateful.

 

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Aran Weight yarn (Size 4, Medium)

•Crochet Hook

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Cold Brew Sweater is a classic knitted inspired sweater. Is cozy and has a beautiful drape.
The sweater is worked in 4 panels, assembled at the end. The rows are worked vertically in double slip stitches to recreate the knitting look of the fisherman ribbing.
The short rows technique is used to create the pattern on the front panel.

This Cold Brew Sweater has an oversized fit, with a positive ease of 26 cm around Bust Circumference.

 

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Cold Brew Sweater Pattern is available in 8 sizes, from Small up to 5X Large.
The model is 168 cm tall and wears size Small.

Neckline a: 20 cm (22, 22, 24, 24, 25, 25, 25)
Bust width b: 56 cm (61, 68, 71, 76, 81, 86, 91)
Sleeve length c: 37 cm (37, 39, 39, 40, 40, 41, 41)
Sleeve width d: 19 cm (22, 22, 25, 25, 28, 28, 28)
Length e: 50 cm (53, 53, 56, 56, 59, 59, 59)

 

 

How much yarn do you need?

I used:
Supreme Merino by Katia in color Aubergine (99)
Each ball has 50 grams and approximately 75 meters
Yarn composition: 45% Acrylic – 45% Merino – 10% Superfine Alpaca

Below you can find some other yarn suggestions or you can check the link below for other yarn substitutions by yarnsub.com
Supreme Merino by Katia substitution
Hobbii Easy Care Merino Big
Hobbii Wool Power
Patons Alpaca Blend
We Are Knitters Meriwool
For each size you will need:
13 (15, 17, 18, 19, 22, 23, 24) balls or
960 (1110, 1210, 1350, 1420, 1600, 1670, 1740) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Dssblo – double slip stitch
Fhdc – foundation half double crochet
ss /ssblo- slip stitch /back loop only
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rounds
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 8 mm crochet hook in the Dss stitch pattern
11 sts = 10 cm
12 rows = 10cm

 

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The main stitch pattern is the double slip stitch or half double crochet slip stitch.
For the edging, the stitch pattern is slip stitch in the back loop only
Special stitches:

Dssblo (double slip stitch in the back loop only):

Yarn over, insert the hook into the back loop of the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop and pass it through both loops on your hook.

Fhdc (foundation half double crochet):
*for this particular pattern, used for increasing on the neckline
Yarn over and insert the hook into the side of the last st; yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pass it through the first loop on your hook, yarn over and pass it through all three loops on your hook.
Yarn over and insert the hook into the bottom loops of the previous st and repeat the steps above.

PATTERN NOTES

  • Work all pieces flat; turn after each row.
  • Work 1ch before starting a row 1ch does not count as first st.
  • Work the first and last st in a row through both loops, not only the back loop.
    the bottom ribbing and sleeves ribbing is worked at once with the rest of the panels, but in a different stitch pattern
  • place a stitch marker at the end of each section of the front panel; this will help to track the rows easier.

INSTRUCTIONS

Numbers for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL are written between brackets; if not pattern applies for all sizes.

BACK PANEL

Start: ch57 (61, 61, 65, 65, 67, 67, 67) sts
R1: starting with the second st, 1ss in the next 6sts, 1dss in each st until the end of the row. 1ch and turn.
R2: 1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next sts except the last 6, 1ssblo in the last 6sts. 1ch and turn
R3: 1ssblo in first 6sts, 1dssblo in each of the following sts except the last one, 1dss in the last st. 1ch and turn.

Rep. R2 and R2 until you have in total 66 (74, 82, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108) rows.
Fasten off.

FRONT PANEL

The pattern is written per section (see the diagram below), but work the front panel in one single piece:
In the PDF version, you can find a chart for each size with the front panel of the Cold Brew Sweater.

 

FRONT PANEL

Section 1
Start: ch57 (61, 61, 65, 65, 67, 67, 67) sts
R1: staring in the second st, 1ss in next 6sts, 1dss in each st until the end of the row. 1ch and turn.
R2: 1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next sts except the last 6, 1ssblo in the last 6sts. 1ch and turn
R3: 1ssblo in first 6sts, 1dssblo in each of the following sts except the last one, 1dss in the last st. 1ch and turn
Rep. R2 and R3 until you have 6 (6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10) rows.
Place a stitch marker

Section 2
R1: 1ssblo in first 6sts, 1dssblo in each of the next 25 (29, 31, 33, 33, 34, 34,36)sts. 1ch and turn.
R2:1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next sts except the last 6, 1ssblo in the last 6sts. 1ch and turn
R3: 1ssblo in first 6sts, 1dssblo in each of the following sts except the last 2sts*. 1ch and turn.
*don’t work into the last 2sts. This is how we decrease with 2sts
*with each right-side row you will decrease with 2sts at the end of the row
Rep. R2 and R3 until you have for section 2: 12 (14, 16, 14, 16, 18, 16, 20) rows.
Place a stitch marker

Section 3
In section 3 we will work again on the entire row. To pass over the short rows, insert the hook into the side of the last st of the previous short row (the one on top you’re currently working), and into the next st of the next short row, and work 2 stitches together:
Yarn over, insert the hook into the side of the last st of the previous short row, then insert the hook into the next st of the next short row, yarn over, and pass it through all the loops on the hook.
When the pattern says to work into each st, you will need to pass over the short rows as explained above.

After completing the sts of the first short row, you will then work 2sts on each next short row, and finish the row with the rest of the stitches from the last row of section 1.
R1: 1ssblo in next 6sts, 1dssblo in each st until the end of the row, except the last st, 1dss into the last st, 1ch and turn.
At the end of R1, you need the have the same number of sts
R2: 1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next sts except the last 6sts, 1ssblo in the last 6sts. 1ch and turn
Rep. R1 and R2 until you have 9 (11, 11, 11, 13, 15, 15, 15) rows.
The last row was a right-side row.
Place a stitch marker

Section 4
R1:1dss into the first st, 1dssblo into the next 14 (16, 16, 22, 20, 19, 21, 19) sts, 1ch and turn
R2: 1dss into the first st, 1dssblo in each of the following sts except the last one, 1dss into the last st. 1ch and turn.
R3: 1dss into the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next sts of the previous row, 1dssblo into the next 2sts of Section 3. 1ch and turn
Rep. R2 and R3 until you have 5 (5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 7, 9).
*R6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 10): 1dss into the first st, 1dssblo in each of the following sts except the last 3sts, 1dss into the next st. 1ch and turn.
*we start decreasing for shaping the neckline; don’t work the last 2sts.
R7 (7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11): rep. R3
Rep. the last 2 rows until you have in total for section 4: 12 (12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 16) rows.
The last row will end at the neckline.
For size S, Section 4 is done.
Only sizes: – (M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
R: – (13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15, 17): rep. R3
R: – (14, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16, 16, 18): Rep. R2
For sizes M and XL the Section 4 is done.
Only sizes – (-, L, -, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
Rep. last 2 rows (R3 and R2) until you have for section 4: – (-, 16, -, 16, 18, 16, 20) rows.
Section 4 is done.
The last row ends at the neckline.
Place a stitch marker.

Section 5
At the end of Section 4, you have 19 (21, 25, 29, 29, 30, 30, 32) sts
We decreased 6 sts for the neckline.
For Section 5 we will work again on the entire row.
After finishing working over the sts of Section 4, you will continue working over the sts of Section 3, including the ribbing sts, until you complete the row.
At the end of the first row of Section 5, you will have 6sts less than the number of sts you started with.

R1:1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next sts except the last 6, 1ssblo in the last 6sts. 1ch and turn
R2: 1ssblo in the first 6sts, 1dssblo in each of the following sts except the last one, 1dss in the last st. 1ch and turn
Rep. R1 and R2 until you have in total for Section 5: 12 (12, 12, 16, 16, 16, 20, 20) rows.

Section 6
R1: 1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next 18 (20, 24, 28, 28, 29, 29, 31) sts. 1ch and turn.
R2 Only sizes -(M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
1dss into the first st, 1dssblo in each of the following sts except the last one, 1dss into the last st. 1ch and turn.
R3 Only sizes -(M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
1dss into the first st, 1dssblo in each of the following sts except the last 3sts, 1dss into the next st. 1ch and turn.
R4 Only sizes -(-, L, -, -, 3XL,-, 5XL)
Rep. R2
R5 Only sizes -(-, L, -, -, 3XL,-, 5XL)
Rep. R3
Next, we will start to increase to shape the neckline.
The next row is for each size R2(4, 6, 4, 4, 6, 4, 6). So you worked until now for
Section 6: 1 (3, 5, 3, 3, 5, 3, 5) rows.
R2(4, 6, 4, 4, 6, 4, 6): 1dss into the first st, 1dssblo in each of the following sts except the last one, 1dss into the last st, *2fhdc, 1ch and turn

*see the STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES section.
R3 (5, 7, 5, 5, 7, 5, 7): 1dss into the first st, 1dssblo in each of the following sts except the last 3sts, 1dss into the next st. 1ch and turn.
Rep. last 2 rows until you have for Section 6:
7 (9, 11, 9, 9, 11, 9, 11) rows.
R8 (10, 12, 10, 10, 12, 10, 12): 1dss into the first st, 1dssblo in each of the following sts except the last one, 1dss into the last st, 1ch and turn.
R9 (11, 13, 11, 11, 13, 11, 13):1dss into the first st, 1dssblo in each of the following sts except the last 3sts, 1dss into the next st. 1ch and turn.
Rep. the last 2 rows until you have in total for Section 6: 12 (14, 16, 14, 16, 18, 16, 20) rows.
Section 6 is done.
Place a stitch marker.

Section 7
In Section 7 we will start to work the entire row. You will have to rep. Section 3. Work the same number of rows and pass over the short rows in the same way.
The last row of Section 7, ends with the ribbing.

Section 8
R1: 1ssblo in first 6sts, 1dssblo in each of the next 15 (17, 17, 21, 19, 18, 20, 18)sts. 1ch and turn.
R2:1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next sts except the last 6, 1ssblo in the last 6sts. 1ch and turn
R3:1dss into the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next sts of the previous row, 1dssblo into the next 2sts of Section 7. 1ch and turn
Rep. R2 and R3 until you have for Section 7:
12 (14, 16, 14, 16, 18, 16, 20) rows.

Section 9
At the end of Section 8, you have 125 (29, 31, 33, 33, 34, 34,36)sts
For Section 9 we will work again on the entire row.( similar as section 5)
After finishing working over the sts of Section 8, you will continue working over the sts of Section 7, until you complete the row.

R1: 1ssblo in next 6sts, 1dssblo in each st until the end of the row, except the last st, 1dss into the last st, 1ch and turn.
At the end of R1, you need the have the same number of sts as the one you started with
R2:1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next sts except the last 6sts, 1ssblo in the last 6sts. 1ch and turn
Rep. R1 and R2 until you have 6 (6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10) rows.
Fasten off.
FRONT PANEL is done.
To summarize:
We worked 9 sections and we have for each section:
Section 1: 6 (6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10) rows.
Section 2: 12 (14, 16, 14, 16, 18, 16, 20) rows.
Section 3: 9 (11, 11, 11, 13, 15, 15, 15) rows.
Section 4:12 (14, 16, 14, 16, 18, 16, 20) rows.
Section 5: 12 (12, 12, 16, 16, 16, 20, 20) rows.
Section 6:12 (14, 16, 14, 16, 18, 16, 20) rows.
Section 7: 9 (11, 11, 11, 13, 15, 15, 15) rows.
Section 8: 12 (14, 16, 14, 16, 18, 16, 20) rows.
Section 9: 6 (6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10) rows.

In the end, you should have for the front panel, the same number of rows for the back panel. (you can easily count the rows at the ribbing)

SLEEVES

Start: ch44 (44, 46, 46, 47, 47, 48, 48) sts
R1: starting with the second st, 1ss in the next 6sts, 1dss in each st until the end of the row. 1ch and turn.
R2: 1dss in the first st, 1dssblo in each of the next sts except the last 6, 1ssblo in the last 6sts. 1ch and turn
R3: 1ssblo in first 6sts, 1dssblo in each of the following sts except the last one, 1dss in the last st. 1ch and turn.
Rep. R2 and R2 until you have in total 46 (52,52, 60, 60, 68, 68, 168) rows.
Fasten off.

ASSEMBLING

Step 1: lay front and back panel shoulder next to shoulder and stitch them together.
Step 2: Lay the sleeves next to the armhole; the middle row has to be next to the shoulder seam and stitch them with the front and back panel.
Step 3: Fold the piece in half and stitch the sides.

NECKLINE RIBBING

Rejoin yarn into the neckline edge.
R1: 1ch, 1sc in each stitch around (1 side row = 1st)

RIBBING
ch7
R1: 1ss into next 6ch-sts, 1ss into the next 2sts of the neckline edge. turn
R2: 1ssblo in each 6sts, 1ch and turn
R3: 1ssblo in each 6sts, 1ss into the next 2sts of the neckline edge.
Rep. R2 and R2 until you complete the entire circumference
Join the ends using slip stitches.

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

I hope you like this cardigan, and you will make one. I can’t wait to see the colors you have.

Happy Crocheting!

 

When I first posted the Cotton version of this cardigan on my Social Media, many asked for a pattern.

I was surprised, and I need to confess because I have the feeling that many of you expect from my side, mostly crochet patterns.

So I had to make another sample and take notes for writing the pattern, and finally, I can share the Cozy Fluffy Cardigan with you. Since I finished, this cardigan has been the first thing I put on in the morning after getting out of bed. And it’s lying all day next to me, and whenever I need a bit of coziness, it is my best friend.

So let’s see what we will need and how I made this Cozy Fluffy Cardigan.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing from this page I may receive some commissions. This won’t cost you anything, no additional costs for you as the commission is paid by the merchant.
In this way you support me and I will be extremely grateful.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Super Bulky yarn weight (size 6)- 1 strand DK, three strands worsted weight *find
more details in the Yarn section
Aran Weight (Heavy Worsted Size 4)
• Knitting Needles
o 8 mm needles (for ribbing)
o 10 mm needles (for the rest of the cardigan)
you can use circular or straight needles, but for the collar ribbing, you will need 100 – 120 cm circular needles
• yarn needle for weave in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Cozy Fluffy Cardigan has a classic drop-shoulder design. The neckline has a bit of shaping to give a slightly V neck.

The cardigan has an oversized fit, with a positive ease of about 22 cm around the bust circumference.

The cardigan has a panels construction (back, panel, front panels, and sleeves).

After assembling front and back panels shoulders, pick up stitches from the armhole to make the sleeves.

After finishing the sleeves, stitch the edges of the cardigan.
In the end, work the collar ribbing.

 

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Cozy Fluffy Cardigan Pattern is available in 8 sizes, from small to 5XL. The model is 168 cm tall and wears size Small

Neckline a: 24 cm (24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24)
Bust width b: 64 cm (69, 74, 79, 84, 89, 94, 99)
Sleeve width (armhole depth) c: 25 cm (28, 28, 31, 31, 34, 34, 34)
Sleeve Length d: 40 cm (40, 42, 42, 43, 43, 44, 44)
Length e: 62 cm (62, 64, 64, 64, 64, 68, 68)

 

How much yarn do you need?

I made the sample using left-over yarn and Concept Tribu by Katia for the off-white stripes. For the left-over yarn, I used three strands of Aran weight and 1 strand of DK weight yarn. I calculated the total weight, and the result was 65 meters/100 grams which is equivalent to a Super Bulky Weight.

TIP: if you want your left-over yarn to have a nice color transition, one of the 4th strands needs to be a self-striping yarn.

For each size you will need:
Leftover Yarn 650 m (700, 780, 840, 930, 1010, 1030, 1060)
Katia Tribu: 270 m (290, 320, 340, 360, 380, 420, 430)
In total: 920 m (990, 1100, 1180, 1290, 1390, 1450, 1490)

ABBREVIATIONS

k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit two together (decrease)
R – rows
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 10 mm needles in stockinette
10 sts = 10 cm
11 rows = 10cm

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The entire cardigan is worked in stockinette stitch with a knit 1, purl 1 ribbing.
The ribbing is worked with smaller size needles.
You can use straight needles for the back panel, front panels, and sleeves as the pieces are worked flat. You will need cord needles for the ribbing collar as the length and shape require flexible needles.

This sample is worked using a stripe pattern.
The pattern for the stripes is 4 rows in color A (left-over yarn), and 2 rows in color B (Katia Tribu yarn)

PATTERN NOTES

Change the color at the beginning of the row by working the first stitch with the next color.
Leave the unused yarn behind, and don’t cut it as you will need to pick it up at the following color change.
Use any method you like for casting on and binding off.

INSTRUCTIONS

Numbers for sizes M, L XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL are written between brackets; if not, the pattern applies for all sizes.
Left-over yarn: color A
Katia Tribu (off-white color) color B

BACK PANEL
Use 8mm needles
Cast on 64 (68, 74, 80, 84, 90, 94, 100) sts
R1: k1, p1 until the end of the row.
R2-R8: rep. R1
Change to 10 mm needles
R9: k all sts.
R10: p all sts.
R11-R12: rep. R9-R10
change to color B
R13-R14: Rep R9-R10
Change to color A
Rep. R9-R14 until you have 64 (64, 66, 66, 66, 66, 70, 70) rows
Bind off.

FRONT PANEL RIGHT
Use 8mm needles
Cast on 32 (34, 37, 40, 42, 45, 47, 50) sts
R1: k1, p1 until the end of the row.
R2-R8: rep. R1
Change to 10 mm needles
R9: k all sts.
R10: p all sts.
R11-R12: rep. R9-R10
change to color B
R13-R14: Rep R9-R10
Rep. R9-R14 until you have 40 (40, 42, 42, 44, 44, 46, 46) rows
Next, keep the color-changing pattern
Next row: k1, k2tog, k all remaining sts
Next row: p all sts

Rep. last 2 rows until you have in total 64 (64, 66, 66, 66, 66, 70, 70) rows
Bind off

FRONT PANEL LEFT

Rep. the pattern for FRONT PANEL RIGHT, but the reverse. (decrease at the end of the row)

ASSEMBLING FRONT AND BACK PANEL

Stitch back panel with both front panels on shoulders.

SLEEVES

Use stitch markers to mark the back and front panels rows required for sleeves: 28 (30, 30, 34, 34, 36, 36, 36)
Total rows for the sleeves: 56 (60, 60, 64, 64, 72, 72, 72)
Next step: we will pick up the stitches for the sleeves, between the 2 stitch markers using the color A and 10 mm
needles.

Pick 3 sts and skip the next row. And repeat until you complete the sleeve width.
You will have in total 42 (45, 45, 51, 51, 54, 54, 54) sts.
Picking up the stitches will count as a first row, k all sts row
R2: p all st until the end of the row.
R3: k all sts.
R4: p all sts.
Change with color B
R5: k all sts
R6: p all sts
Change to color A
Rep. rows 1 to 6 until you have in total
36 (36, 38, 38, 40, 40, 40, 40) rows.
Next row: *k 3 sts, k2tog. *rep. until the end of the row.
Next row: p all sts
Next row: *k 3 sts, k2tog. *rep. until the end of the row.
Change to 8mm needles and work the next 8 rows in ribbing pattern
*Next 8 rows: k1, p1
Bind off
*If you don’t have an even number of sts, p2tog at the end of the row.

FINAL ASSEMBLING

Fold the piece in half and stitch the sides.

 

COLLAR RIBBING

Use 100 or 120 cm cord circular needles, 8mm, and pick up sts along the front panels’ edge and neckline.
The proportion will be 6 with 1, meaning you need to pick up 6sts and skip 1.

After having all the sts on the needles, work 8 rows in the ribbing pattern, *k1, p1*
Bind off.

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

I hope you like this cardigan, and you will make one. I can’t wait to see the colors you have.

Happy Knitting!