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Bykaterina

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I started this Spring Colors T-shirt one day when I was frustrated that I couldn’t record a video tutorial because of my laptop. Since that day, it was like a relaxing project that I picked it up every time I was bored about a current project. Apparently, I picked up way too often because I finished it in no time. 😁😅

I chose an alternating stitch pattern, and this was a good idea because I realized that everything works faster if you’re not working the same stitch pattern every row.

I came back to the top-down construction with this new design, which is super simple, especially if you don’t have to worry about the sleeves. 

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

I kept the cropped length, but being top-down, you can adjust the length and make it longer. Also, because I got a few comments that all my sweaters are off-shoulder 😁, I give you some tips in the pattern below on adjusting that and making the neckline narrower.

And another important piece of info that you will find is how to adjust this pattern to your own tension, yarn, and hook size and how to calculate the starting stitches.

I don’t know what else to say about it, just that I love it and that I might make one more in a unicolor and that I hope you will love it too!

MATERIALS

  • Yarn
    • Category 3 ( light, DK weight yarn)
  • Crochet Hook
  • 4.5 mm crochet hook (I used Furl Odyssey Black )
  • You will need a yarn needle for weave in ends
  • Scissors
  • stitch markers

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

This pattern requires techniques like single crochet and double crochet.

It has a top-down construction, and it’s easy to adjust to any length.

Also, with a relaxed fit, with a positive ease of about 18 cm around the bust circumference.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

 Final measurements of the Spring Colors T-shirt  are listed below:

Neckline a: 23 cm (23, 23, 23, 23, 24, 24, 24)

Bust width b: 52 cm (57, 62, 67, 72, 77, 82, 87)

Sleeve width c: 20 cm (21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 27, 29)

*without armpit chain

Length d: 35 cm (36, 38, 39, 40, 40, 43, 45)

 

These measurements will fit:

 

To Fit cm  

S

 

M

 

L

 

XL

 

2XL

 

XL

 

2XL

 

3XL

 

4XL

 

5XL

Bust 86 96 106 116 126 116 126 136 146 156

How much Yarn do you need?

I used Lan Yarns, Bloom. Each cake has 150 grams and 450 meters

Lang bloom S M L XL XXL 3XL 4XL 5XL
150g/450 m 2 2 2 3 3 3 3 3

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The stitch pattern is Cross Stitch, alternate 1 row in single crochet and 1 row in cross-stitch.

Row 1: 1sc in each st

Row 2: *skip next st, 1dc in next, 1dc in the skipped stitch.

ABBREVIATIONS

  • Ch – chain
  • dc –double crochet
  • cross-st – skip next st, 1dc in next st, 1dc in skipped st
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Slst – slip stitch
  • Ch-sp – chain space
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • R – rows
  • ** – repeated section.

 TENSION (GAUGE)

Using a 4.5 mm crochet hook in the cross stitch pattern

  • 15 sts and 12 rows = 10 cm

NOTES

  • Work the piece in rounds on the Right side and wrong side. Turn after each round.
  • Start the yoke in the corner to avoid having a joining line in the back
  • Start round 2 and each of the next round in the 2ch-sp of the previous round increase.
  • Ch1 at the beginning of every single crochet round. This ch1 does not count as first sc.
  • Ch2 at the beginning of every cross stitch round. Ch2 does not count as the first dc.
  • For a narrower neckline, subtract multiple of 8 stitches (2 stitches per section: front back and sleeves). For each 8 subtracted stitches, you will need to work one round in plus on the yoke.

How to adjust the pattern to your measurements, yarn, and tension:

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

  • Make a swatch in the stitch pattern used and measure your gauge.
  • Measure how long you want the starting chain according to the desired fit. It’s easier to have a multiple of 6 stitches + 4 stitches (use these for raglan increases). Divide the stitches into the front, back, and sleeves: 2/6 for back and front and 1/6 for sleeves. The stitch pattern requires a multiple of 2 stitches. Adjust the number of stitches for each section to be a multiple of 2, if needed.
  • Now that you have the starting stitches work the yoke rounds (see the pattern for any extra help).
  • When the bust width measures your desired length, you can divide the yoke into sleeves and body.
  • Continue working on the body until you reach the desired length.
  • Optional you can add length on the sleeves as well.

INSTRUCTIONS

Numbers for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL are written between brackets.

YOKE

You can follow the stitch chart or the written pattern below:

Start: ch 108 (108, 108, 108, 108, 116, 116, 116)

Join the ends to make a circle.

R1: 1ch, 1sc in next in the same st, *1sc in next 34 (34, 34, 34, 34, 36, 36, 36) sts, (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in next st, 1sc in next 18 (18, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20 ,20) sts,* (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in next st. Rep from *to* for the other half of the round. Close the round with 1sc in the same st as the 1st sc, 2ch, sl st with first sc. Turn

Starting with round 2, all the following rounds will begin in the 2ch-sp.

You will have with 8 more sts, on each round or with 2 more sts per section.

R2: 1dc in the 2ch-sp, *1cross-st in each of the following sts until the 2ch-sp, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in the 2ch-sp. Rep. from * to the last 2ch-sp, 1dc in the last 2ch-sp, 2ch, slst with first dc. Turn.

R3: 1sc in the 2ch-sp, *1sc in each of the following sts to the next 2ch-sp, (1sc, 2ch, 1sc) in the 2ch-sp. Rep. from * to the last 2ch-sp, 1sc in the last 2ch-sp, 2ch, slst with 1st sc.

Rep. R2 and R3 until you have in total for the YOKE 22 (23, 25, 27, 28, 28, 31, 34) rounds.

At the end of the yoke, you will have for back and front pieces 76 (78, 82, 86, 88, 90, 96, 102) and (60, 62, 66, 70, 72, 74, 80, 86) sts for the sleeves.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

TORSO

Depending on the size you make, the first round of the torso, the dividing round, will start in the required stitch pattern.

Sizes S, 2XL, 3XL, 5XL

R1: Separating round (in sc)

1sc in the 2ch-sp, *1sc in each of the next sts to the next 2ch-sp, 1sc in the 2ch-sp, ch (0, 18, 18, 18) sts, skip the sleeve sts*, 1sc in the next 2ch-sp. Rep from * to * for the rest of the round. Close the round with sl st in first sc.

Sizes M, L, XL, 4XL

R1: Separating round (cross-st round)

1dc in the 2ch-sp, *cross-st to the next 2ch-sp, 1dc in the 2ch-sp, ch 6 (8, 12, 18) sts, skip the sleeve sts*,1dc in the 2ch-sp. Rep. from * to * for the rest of the round. Close the round with sl st into the first dc.

Next, continue to alternate, 1round in sc and 1round in cross-st, until you will have 21 rounds for the TORSO section or get to the desired length.

 TO FINISH

Weave in all ends and block the piece to measurements.

I hope you like it! I can’t wait to see yours! 

A video tutorial will come soon, so stay tuned. 

I am simply in love with this new design and so thankful that @misscjcrafts suggested the Wrap Me in Love name because this is what I feel every time I dress these pieces of clothes: love!

The Wrap Me in Love Sweater inspiration came again from a store dress that I bought a long time ago. Imagine being in my wardrobe for so long; I was so happy that I finally made one with my hands.

It was a lot of work figuring out the pattern because the machine knitted fabric is nothing similar to the hand-knitted and even more crochet. The actual dress helped a lot, though, to figure out how I have to work the pieces and how to assemble, and the rest was just about trying on and adjusting the shape on the go.

It was the first design for which I made two samples, but I wanted to make sure that everything works as I calculated. Also, I wanted to know how the drape will be using a different fiber. And the result was a happy one.

 

I know that for almost all my designs, you can find a free pattern here on the website, and this design is nothing different, only that I found it more helpful to give all the information you need to make this design with your own materials and also according to your own measurements.

Of course, that if you want a step-by-step instructions pattern, you can find it in my shops listed below. It’s an easily printable version, and you will find in the pattern everything you need for only a few bucks. 😊

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern, with step by step instructions, stitch and row counts from S up to 5XL sizes here:

You can also find a video tutorial here

https://youtu.be/U7SCjhWN8ts

Let’s see a list of materials, the logic behind this design, and how to customize your own.

In the material list, you will find everything I used for both samples. 

With the info you will find here, you will be able to make this sweater in any yarn. Just consider that using different yarn and having a different tension might need less or more yarn.

 

MATERIALS

  • Yarn
    • Category 1 to 3 ( Fingering to DK weight yarn)
  • Crochet Hook
  • 4.5 mm crochet hook and a 3.5 mm for Sweater’s ribbing
  • You will need a yarn needle for weave in ends
  • Scissors
  • stitch markers
  • elastic band (approximate with 3 cm shorter than the waist circumference) – optional

 

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

This pattern requires techniques like half double crochet, single crochet in back loop only, increase.

The construction is easier than it looks. For the top, work two identical pieces, starting from the cuff.

Work front and back panel in a single piece.

In the end, fold both pieces in half and stitch the sides. Then place one piece inside the other, with the corners next to the other piece’s side seam, and join the bottom using single crochet stitches.

To make the top longer, into a dress, after assembling, start to work in circular rounds from the bottom of the top.

 MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

 Final measurements of the Wrap Me in Love Sweater are listed below:

 

Cuff Circ a: 24 cm (26, 28, 30, 34, 39, 43, 47, 49)

Sleeve length b: 17 cm (17, 19, 19, 20, 20, 21, 21)

Bust width c: 43 cm (47, 53, 57, 63, 67, 73, 77)

Top Length d:

Sweater (without ribbing): 46 cm (48, 47, 48, 48, 48, 50, 50)

Dress: 40 cm (40, 41, 42, 42, 42, 44, 44, 44)

 

These measurements will fit:

 

To Fit cm  

S

 

M

 

L

 

XL

 

2XL

 

XL

 

2XL

 

3XL

 

4XL

 

5XL

Bust 86 96 106 116 126 116 126 136 146 156

 

 

How much Yarn do you need?

I made the 2 versions samples using 2 different types and yarn weight.

For the Sweater, I used Scheepjes Catona, which is a mercerized fingering cotton yarn.

I used Katia Sky for the dress, a blend of cotton, wool, and polyamide in a DK weight.

I worked on both samples using the same hook size.

Dress Katia Sky S M L XL XXL 3XL 4XL 5XL
50g/160 m 11 12 14 15 16 17 18 19
Sweater  Catona                
50g / 125 m 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The main stitch pattern for both samples is 1 row in half double crochet and one row in mesh stitch (1half double crochet, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 stitch)

The pattern for the ribbing is single crochet in the back loop only.

I used the skirt as a pattern 3 rows in half double crochet and 1row in mesh stitch.

For the final touches of both top pieces, I used twisted single crochet.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern, with step by step instructions, stitch and row counts here from S up to 5XL sizes :

SPECIAL STITCHES

Foundation half double crochet

We are using the foundation half double crochet to extend the trunk’s length at the end of the row for this particular pattern.

1st st: Yarn over and insert the hook in the side of the last stitch. Yarn over, pull it through the first loop only, yarn over, and pull it through all loops.

2nd st, and all the next sts: Yarn over, insert the hook into the bottom v of the previous st, yarn over and pull it through the first loop, yarn over and pull it through all the loops.

Twisted single crochet

Insert the hook into the next st, yarn over, and pull out a loop. Turn your hook 180 Degrees, clock-wise. Yarn over and pull it through both loops on your hook.

NOTES

Always ch2 at the end of each hdc row. Ch2 does not count as the first dc.

Always ch1 at the end of each sc row. Ch1 does not count as first sc.

When working perpendicular with the scblo rows, each side row represents 1 st.

Work both top pieces flat. Turn after each row.

Join the bottom of top pieces by working in the round.

Work the dress’s skirt in the round. Join with a slip stitch after each round.

For the dress, I use an elastic band to make the waist with a closer fit. You can use an elastic band for the sweater version as well. After working the ribbing, if you want a closer fit on the waist, you can insert an elastic band.

The elastic band has to be approximately 3 cm shorter than your waist circumference.

To insert the elastic band, work 1 round in single crochet stitches, working over the elastic band.

How to adjust the pattern to your measurements, yarn, and tension:

Start with a swatch in the main stitch pattern.

Below you can see the diagram with one piece of the top part.

What to measure?

Cuff

First, we will start with the cuff. The cuff width is proportional to the upper arm circumference.

In this particular case, the cuff is approximately 2 cm smaller than the upper arm.

Measure upper arm, and then subtract 2 cm. This value will be the cuff length.

Knowing the gauge from your swatch, calculate how many stitches you will need to get to that length.

For this particular sample, the cuff width is 7 cm.

The cuff is worked in single crochet in the back loop only. Swatch this stitch and see how many sts you will need to get to 7 cm.

The value will be the number of sts to start with for the cuff.

After you have the number of sts for the cuff, work in single crochet in the back loop only the number of rows needed to get to the cuff length calculated above. It has to be an odd number of rows.

Sleeve

The sleeve length is proportional to the actual sleeve length.

Measure your sleeve length from the armpit to the cuff.

The exact sleeve length for this sample will be shorter. Then subtract the cuff width (7cm)

Calculate the number of rows that you will need to get to the actual sleeve length. Subtract 26 cm, and the result will be the sleeve length for your sample (approximate 40% of the exact sleeve length)

Now that you know how many rows you will need for the sleeve, you are good to go. Work the 1st row of the sleeve perpendicular with the cuff without increasing. Next, increase with 1st at the beginning of the row and one st at the end of the row until you complete the sleeve length.

The last row of the sleeve length has to be a mesh stitch row.

Trunk length

The first step is to increase the sleeve’s number of sts to get to the desired length.

The sweater sample was designed with 7 cm over the waist length, represented by the ribbing.

The dress’s top is designed approximately 3 cm less than the standard waist-length measurements.

Measure your desired length. Divide the total number of sts of the sleeve by 2. Calculate how many sts you will need to get to the desired length. Subtract (sleeve’s sts/2) and see how many sts you will need to add on each side.

You will need an even number of sts.

Next, at the end of the last sleeve’s row, add the extra ch sts. Turn and work the row until the end. At the end of the row, add the extra sts, using foundation half double crochet.

 Trunk width

Measure the biggest part of your body (bust or waist). Divide the number by 2, and this will be the value for your trunk width.

Calculate according to your gauge how many rows you will need to get to the trunk width. It has to be an odd number.

Next, for the second part of the trunk width, you will need to increase. The corner of the current piece has to reach the side seam of the other side.

To know how many rows to work without increasing and increasing, divide the total number of rows by 2. For example, I had in total 47 rows. Divided by 2, I will get 23.5. In this case, I will work 23 rows without increasing and 24 rows with increasing.

The increases will be made starting with a mesh stitch row. The pattern will be:

Increase row: 1hdc, ch2, 1hdc in 1st st (inc), continue with mesh st until the end of the row. 1hdc, ch1, 1hdc in the last st (inc)

Work next 3 rows, without increasing.

Repeat the 4 rows pattern until you complete the trunk width.

Repeat the same pattern for the second piece, and then follow the assembling diagrams you can find below.

Step 1

Step2

After assembling Steps, you can add the ribbing for the sweater version, or you can start work in rounds, adding the skirt, using any stitch pattern you want.

I hope that you will find all this information useful and you will be able to make your own Wrap Me in Love Sweater or Dress. I can’t wait to see yours. 😍🥰

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern, with step by step instructions, stitch and row counts here from S up to 5XL sizes :

How happy I am that I am about to share with you this Poppy Flowers Shawl Pattern!

As I wrote in a post on Instagram, I don’t like to make shawls, but I love to wear them. I am that kind of a person, that if I have my neck covered, the rest doesn’t matter 😁. Especially with this weather changing, when it’s not that cold anymore, but neither warm enough.

For this Poppy Flowers Shawl, I used the same combination of stitches as for the Snowflakes Sweater, but this time using only 3 colors and I am happy with how everything comes together. 

I have to say that I am not a fan of red, but in combination with Grey and Black I think is looking pretty good.

Plus the combination of colors is infinite and can’t wait to see what you have for this design.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

 

I have a video tutorial coming for this Poppy Flowers Shawl soon. So if you are a visual maker and want to make this, don’t worry I got you covered.

I don’t know what to say more about the inspiration of this design, so I think I will next get right into the instructions and let you all know how to make this shawl.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

MATERIALS

 

  • Yarn
    • Category 2 ( Fingering weight yarn)
  • Crochet Hook
  • 4 mm crochet hook
  • You will need a yarn needle for weave in ends
  • Scissors

 NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

This shawl has an asymmetrical construction by increasing only on one side.

After completing the first part of the shawl, work a border on 2 sides of the triangle (length and width). Work the last 2 rounds of the edge around the entire scarf.

This pattern requires single crochet, double crochet, 3 double crochet cross stitch, 2 double crochet cross stitch, 5 double crochet shell stitch, 3 and 5 double crochet cluster or group.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

 

Width a: 90 cm

Length b: 140 cm

Diagonal c: 170 cm

*all measurements are taken after blocking and include border

How much Yarn do you need?

I used Hand Dyed yarn by Needle Hook Fibers in colors Black, Red, and Grey.

For the entire shawl, I used approximately one hank of each color. Each skein has 100 grams and 400 yards.

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The pattern for the part of the main shawl is a combination of rows in different stitch patterns.

More exactly will be six different rows.

 

1st row: single crochet

2nd and 3rd row:  3dc cross stitch

*Skip the next st, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1dc in the skipped st. *Rep. to the end of the row

4th row: double crochet

5th Row: 5 double crochet shell stitch

*1sc, skip next 2 sts, 5dc in next st, skip the next 2 sts. *Rep. until the end of the row.

6th row: 5 double crochet worked together (dc5tog)

Dc2tog (dc3tog, dc5tog) – *yarn over, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over, and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook. *rep 2 (3 or 5 times for dc3tog and dc5tog) times, yarn over and pull the yarn through all loops on your hook

These stitch patterns will have minor variations to fit the shawl design

To obtain the asymmetrical shape, increase on single crochet and double crochet row.

ABBREVIATIONS

  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • R – rounds
  • ** – repeated section.

 TENSION (GAUGE)

Using a 4 mm crochet hook

  • 19 sts and 10 rows = 10 cm

*in the 6 rows repeat stitch pattern

NOTES

Always ch3 at the beginning of each row that starts with double crochet.

Ch3 counts as the first double crochet.

Work the last st into the 3rd st of the turning ch.

Always ch1 at the beginning of a row which starts with sc.

Ch1 does not count as first sc.

Change the color after each row, in the last st.

If you are working with 3 colors, you don’t have to cut the yarn. Carry the thread on the side.

After completing one set of 6 rows, the number of stitches will increase with 6.

Increase only on single crochet row and double crochet row: with 2 sts on single crochet row and 4 sts on double crochet row.

Work the shawl flat. Turn after each row (except for the 2 last rounds of the border)

Working in the side rows sts, work 3dc in one space followed by 2 dc in next. Where you have 1 sc row, make only one dc.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

INSTRUCTIONS

You can follow the stitch chart or the written pattern below.

Using Black

Start: Make a magic ring (or ch4 and join to make a small circle) ch1, 7 sc inside the circle. Ch 1 and turn.

R1: 2sc in the 1st st, 1sc in each of the next sts, 2sc in last st (9 sc) Change to red

R2: ch3, skip the next st, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the skipped st, *skip the next st, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1dc in the skipped st. *Rep. until the end of the row. Change to Grey.

R3: Rep. R2. Change to black

R4: ch3, 3dc in the 1st st (same as ch3, 3dc increase), 2dc in next st, 1dc in each of the next sts until the end of the row. Change to Red (13 sts)

R5: ch1, 1sc in first st, *skip the next 2 sts, 1 shell st in next, skip the next 2 sts, 1sc in next. *Rep. until the end of the row. Change to Grey

R6: ch3, dc2tog, ch2, 1sc in next st, ch2, *dc5tog, ch2, 1sc in next st, ch 2. *Rep. until the end of the row except for the last 3 sts, dc3tog in the last 3 sts. Change to black.

R7: ch1, 1sc in each st, except the last one, 3sc in the last st (15 sts) change to Red.

R8: Rep R2

R9: Rep R2

R10: Rep. R4 (19 sts)

R11: Rep. R5

R12: Rep. R6

R13 – R114: Rep R7 to R12 (123 sts)

R115: Rep. R7 (125 sts), ch 3 and turn.

BORDER

In color black (same as the last row)

R1: 1dc in first st (inc), 1dc in next 123 sts, (2dc, ch2, 2 dc – center point) into the next st (last st of the row), turn on the other side and work 1dc in each st (as written in notes), 2dc in the last st, ch 3 and turn.

R2: 1dc in the first st, 1dc in each of the next sts to the center point (ch2sp), (2dc, ch2, 2 dc) in the ch2 sp, 1dc in each of the next sts, except the last one, 2dc in the last st.

R3 – R5: Rep. R2. Change to Red.

R6: ch3 1dc in first st, *skip the next st, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the skipped sts. *repeat to the center point. 2dc, ch2, 2dc in the ch2 sp, *skip the next st, 1dc in next, 1dc in the skipped st. Rep. until the end of the row, except the last st, 2dc in the last st.

*note: if you don’t have 2 sts before and after the center point, work just a dc

R7 – R11: Rep. R6. Change to Grey.

Work the next 2 rounds around the entire edge of the shawl. Work 3dc in each of the 3 corners of the triangle. Join with an sl st.

When working the sts on the diagonal, keep the same pattern as on the length. (working in the side rows sts; see pattern notes)

R12: ch3, 2dc in first st (inc the first corner), 1dc in each of the next st until the next corner 9center point), 3dc, 1dc in each of the next st until the next corner, 3dc, 1dc in each of the next st until the end of the round. Sl st with 3rd st of the starting ch.

R13: ch1, 1sc in the same st, *skip the next 2 sts, 1shell st, skip the next 2 sts, 1 sc. *Repeat all around.

TO FINISH

Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

I hope you like this one too, and can’t wait to see yours.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Find a step by step video tutorial here: