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Bykaterina

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I am so happy that I can finally share with you my new Hessian Bag because it’s such a cool project.

I just want to tell you from the start, that the idea of making a crocheted cover for a shopper jute bag is not original. I saw it so many years ago and loved so much the idea that immediately I bought a Jute bags set. Unfortunately, time flies, and I was able only now to actually make this project and of course share it with you.

Either the idea itself is not original, I have to mention that the pattern for the cover is. No doubt about that 😁

What I like about this project is that the cover can be a market bag itself, so you don’t need to have the jute shopper bag mandatory. Although to use it as a bag you will need to add handles as for this particular project I didn’t need them.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Now let me tell you a bit about the name I chose for this project and then I promise we will jump right into the pattern. 😉

With every new project or design, I love to search over the internet for something related: about colors I chose, shape, feelings that a particular project gives me, and so on.

This time I found out that “hessian” is actually the woven fabric that is used to make this Jute shopper. I loved it so much and I named this design after it. And that was it.

Now, let’s see what we will need and how to make this Hessian Bag of mine.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Medium weight yarn
       o Cotton
       o Cotton mix
• Crochet Hook:
o 5.5 mm crochet hook ( I used Furls Streamline Galaxy)

• jute shopper bag optional (30/30/15)
• yarn needle for weave in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

This Hessian Bag is made as a cover for a Jute Shopper Bag. You can use the same design to make a crocheted market bag. The only things you will need to add are the handles.

The bag construction is out of two identical squares. The sides and bottom of the bag are worked in a single piece and then joined with the front and back squares using single crochet stitches.

The pattern requires techniques as single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, triple crochet, and chain stitches.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The bag is available in one single size having the above measurements. If you want the bag bigger you can add a few more rounds around the main squares.

How much yarn do you need?

I used Ekos from Katia Yarns. This yarn is recycled cotton yarn and each ball has 50 grams and 55 meters.

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – Half double crochet
Dc – double crochet
Tr – triple crochet
2dc – Group
Slst – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rounds
Ch-sp – chain space
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 5.5 mm crochet hook in mesh stitch pattern

12 sts = 10 cm
5.5 rows = 10 cm

STITCH PATTERNS AND TECHNIQUES

2dc-Group – 2dc worked together
Yarn over, insert the hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pass it through the first 2 loops on your hook. Repeat one more time working into the same st/space. yarn over and pass it through all loops on your hook.

Mesh stitch
*1dc, 1ch, skip next st. Rep. until the end of the round.

The main square is worked in the round and it has 2 sections.
First is worked the small center square and then on each side of the square are worked the corners of the final square in a mesh stitch pattern.

The center square starts as a circle and then using only basic stitches with different highs, the circle is transformed into a square.

To finish the main square work one more round in double crochet stitches.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

PATTERN NOTES

close each round of the main square with an sl st
ch3 or ch4 at the beginning of a round counts as first dc or tr.
1ch at the beginning of an sc round does not count as first sc.
If a round starts in a ch-sp, move to the indicated space using sl sts.
change the color at the end of the round by making the sl st using the next color you want to use.

INSTRUCTIONS

For the main square, you can use the written pattern or the stitch chart below

CENTER SQUARE

Start: using color Pastel Orange
Make a magic ring
R1: 1ch, 8sc inside the ring (8sts)
R2: 3ch,1dc in the same st, 3ch, *2dc-group in the next sc, 3ch. *rep. until the end of the round. Change to Pistachio (32 sts)
R3: start the round into the first 3ch-sp
(3ch, 1dc, 2ch, 2dc) in the same 3ch-sp, *(2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in the next 3ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the round. Change with off-white. (48 sts)
R4:6ch, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into the next 2ch-sp, 2ch, skip next 2dc, *1tr, 2ch, (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in the next 2ch-sp, 2cg, skip next 2dc. *rep until the end of the round. (64sts)
R5: 1ch, 1sc in each st around. (64 sts)
R6: 3ch, *(2tr, 3ch, 2tr) in the same st, 1dc in next 2sts, 1hdc in next 3sts, 1sc in next 5sts, 1hdc in next 3sts, 1dc in next 2sts. *rep. to complete the round.
(19sts on each side of the square)

SQUARE CORNERS
Work the same pattern on each side of the center square.
Each corner is worked from 3ch-sp to 3ch-sp
Start each corner with the center square on the right side.

Start: using color Dark Blue, join yarn in one 3ch-sp corner
R1: 3ch, skip next st, 1dc in next, *1ch, skip next st, 1dc in next st. *rep until you have 1st left until the 3ch-sp corner. Skip the last st, 1dc in the 3ch-sp corner. 3ch and turn
R2: skip 1dc and 1ch, 1dc in the next dc, *1ch, skip 1ch, 1dc in next dc. *rep until you have (1ch, 1dc, 3ch) left, 1dc in the third ch.
R3, R4: rep. R2
R5: 3ch, skip 1dc and 1ch, 1dc in next dc, skip 1ch and 1dc, 1dc in the third ch.
Fasten off.

Repeat on all sides.

SQUARE EDGING

Start: using the color Coral, join yarn into one of dc in the corner.
2ch, *3dc in the same st, 2dc into the next dc side row, (3dc into the next 3ch side row, 2dc into the next dc side row) 2 times, 1dc into the 3ch-sp of the center square, 3dc into the next 3ch side row, (2dc into the next dc side row, 3dc into the next 3ch side row) 2 times.*rep on all sides. (28 sts from corner to corner; not counting the middle st of the corner increase.

BOTTOM AND SIDES

The bag’s bottom and sides are worked in one single rectangle using the mesh stitch pattern.
Start: ch23
R1: 1dc in the 7th stitch from the hook, *1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st. *rep. until the end of the row. 4ch and turn
R2: skip first 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc. *rep. until the end of the row. 4ch and turn.
Rep. R2 until you have in total 42 rows. fasten off

Edging
Worl one round in single crochet.
Into the side rows, work 2sc in each side row.
You should end up with the same number of sts as 3 sides of the square.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

JOINING BOTTOM AND SIDES RECTANGLE WITH THE SQUARES.

Before joining, weave in all ends.
Use stitch markers to set in place the rectangle around the squares.
Start in one top corner and join the sides using single crochet sts.
Having the same number of sts you should make 1sc in each st.
Repeat on both sides.
fasten off.

TO FINISH

To finish the Hessian Bag, insert the Jute Shopper into the crocheted cover, and stitch them together on the top edge using a sewing needle and thread.

If you prefer to keep only the crocheted bag, use one of the colors to crochet handles on both sides.

Here are a couple of tutorials for bag handles that I found.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQxuZOmeyjk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoUuVTZO_Wk

I hope you will enjoy this pattern because is so fun and fast and you can give a new life to your shoppers.

Until next time, Happy Crochet!!

 

 

I was always a fan of shorts or pants. When I was a child, my mom asked me to wear more skirts or dresses because I am a girl 😁. But I always find it more comfortable to wear shorts or pants.

So, of course, that I had to add in my designs list a pair of shorts. And here I am sharing with you how to crochet shorts.

I know there are different ways to crochet them and that the most used method is the seamless one, but I prefer the ones that are seamed because I feel that they fit better and keep their shape after wearing them without getting too loose, especially in the back.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

These Marble Shorts are high-waisted and also made short rows at the back to rise it up for comfortable wear.

If I made you curious enough, let’s see what we will need and how I made these Marble Shorts.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Sport weight yarn
o Cotton
o Cotton mix
• Crochet Hook:
o 4 mm crochet hook (I used Odyssey Crochet Hook Blue by Furls Crochet)
• yarn needle for weave in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• 1cm elastic band with about 3-4 cm smaller length than the waist circumference

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

This Marble Shorts pattern features techniques as short rows for a higher back, single crochet in front loop only, increases.

The shorts are worked in two identical pieces, stitch together at the end.

The waistband is worked after assembling in the round, around the shorts’ edge. The waistband is doubled to be able to insert the elastic band and the cord.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The shorts are available in 8 sizes from S up to 5XL. In the diagram above is represented one piece which represents half—work 2 pieces to complete the shorts.
Half Waist a: 43.5 cm (45, 46.5, 49, 51.5, 53.5, 56.5, 59)
Front Rise b: 25 cm (25, 25, 25.5, 25.5, 27, 27, 27)
Back Rise c: 29 cm (29, 29, 29.5, 29.5, 31, 31, 31)
Max.tight: 62 cm (64, 66, 70, 76, 81, 84, 90)
Length: 30 cm (31, 32, 33, 33, 35, 25, 26)
*measurements are taken after blocking and not include the waist band

How much yarn do you need?

I used Mediterranea from Katia Yarns. This yarn is 100% Egyptian Cotton; each ball has 100 grams and 230 meters.

For each size, you will approximate need:

Color 303 – Green Blue Green, 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) balls

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
scflo – single crochet front loop only
fsc – foundation single crochet
Slst – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rounds
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 4 mm crochet hook in single crochet front loop only
16 sts = 10 cm
16 rows = 10 cm

STITCH PATTERN
The main stitch pattern is single crochet in the front loop only.
The waistband is worked in regular single crochet stitches

Foundation single crochet
For this particular design, use fsc for increase with more sts.
Insert the hook into the side of the last st. Yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pass it through the first loop, yarn over and pass it through both loops. Next, insert the hook into the bottom of the
previous st and repeat the steps above.

PATTERN NOTES
Both pieces are worked flat. Turn after each row.
Work 1ch at the end of each row to raise the work
1ch does not count as the first single crochet
Work the increase into the second stitch and the second to last stitch.
Work first and last st as a regular sc.
When working the short rows, work the bridge (passing from the first short section to the next one) as sc2tog: 1sc into the side of the last st and 1sc into the next st.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

INSTRUCTIONS

Numbers for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL are written between brackets. If not, the pattern applies to all sizes.

Both pieces are worked identical, from top to bottom.

Start: ch70 (72, 75, 78, 82, 86, 80, 95)
Short rows:
R1: 1sc in next 17 (18, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23) sts, 1ch and turn.
R2: 1scflo in each st until the end of the row.
R3: 1scflo, in next 17 (18, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23), 1sc in next 17 (18, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23), 1ch and turn
R4: 1scflo in each st until the end of the row.
R5: 1scflo in next 34 (36, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46) sts, 1sc in next 17 (18, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23), 1ch and turn
R6: 1scflo in each st until the end of the row.
R7: 1scflo in next 51 (54, 54, 57, 60, 63, 66, 69) sts, 1sc in last 19 (18, 21, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26) sts, 1ch and turn
R8: 1scflo in each st until the end of the row.
R9: 1sc in first st, 2scflo in next st, 1scflo in each st until the end of the row.
R10:1scflo in each st until the end of the row.

Rep R9 and R10 until you have in total:
32 (32, 32, 34, 34, 36, 36, 36) rows
After completing this row, you should have
83 (85, 88, 92, 96, 101, 105, 110) sts.

Next row: 1sc in first st, 2scflo in next st, 1scflo in each of the next sts except the last 2, 2scflo in next st, 1sc in last st.

Rep. previous row until you have in total:
38 (38, 38, 40, 40, 42, 42, 42) rows.
After completing this row, you should have
95 (97, 100, 104, 108, 113, 117, 122) sts.
At the end of the last row, ch 1 (1, 1, 3, 5, 6,6,8) sts and turn.

Next row: Size S, M, L
1scflo in each st until the end of the row, 10 (11, 11) fsc, 1ch, and turn.

Next row: sizes XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL
Starting with the second ch st, 1sc in next 2 (4, 5,5,7) sts, 1scflo in each of the next sts until the end of the row, 11 (13, 14, 14, 15) fsc, 1ch and turn.
Next row all sizes:
1scflo in each st until the end of the row.

Rep. previous row until you have 48 (50, 51, 54, 54, 57, 57, 58) rows.

If you want the shorts to be longer, work more rows in length.

Fasten off.

ASSEMBLING

Fold both pieces in half and lay them one next to each other in the mirror.

You now have the right and left sides of the shorts.

Step 1: Stitch together the max tight section on each side.
Step2: Stitch together the Front left side with the front right side.
Step3: Stitch back left side with the back right side.

WAISTBAND

Work for the waistband around the top edge.
Join the yarn in one stitch from the bac.
R1: 1ch, 1sc in each st around. Close the round with slst in first sc.
R2 – R10: Rep. R1

Place the elastic band into the folded waistband.

Join the waistband edges with sl sts into the stitches of the last row and the 3rd loop of the stitches at the first row, using a smaller hook size (2.5 mm recommended)

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Place the elastic band into the folded waistband.

Join the waistband edges with sl sts into the stitches of the last row and the 3rd loop of the stitches at the first row, using a smaller hook size (2.5 mm recommended)

CORD

Ch300, or 2.5 times your waist circumference.
sl st into each of the ch sts.

TO FINISH

Use a safety pin and insert the cord into the waistband.
Weave in all loose ends and block to measurements.

I hope you like this pattern and design and I can’t wait to see more crocheted shorts. 😉

Until next time, Happy Crochet!!

I have this mesh stitch pattern t-shirt in my head for a long time, only that I pictured it with long sleeves, but didn’t have enough yarn, so here it is the short sleeves version and maybe the one with long sleeves will come someday.

Well, I had enough yarn, but in the middle of the process I changed my mind and I wanted to make a pair of shorts to match the t-shirt. The shorts pattern is available here

The good thing about this t-shirt is that the sleeves are worked into the armhole, so if you want longer sleeves as I did in the beginning you can make them.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern, with step by step instructions, stitch and row counts from S up to 5XL sizes here:

I love this crocheted matching set so much, that I think I will live in it all summer. 😂

This Marble T-shirt is so lightweight, is made out of cotton, and has enough holes to make it wearable even on the hottest summer days. And is beginner-friendly.

So, let’s see what we will need and how to make this Marble T-shirt.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Sport weight yarn
o Cotton
o Cotton mix
• Crochet Hook:
o 4.5 mm crochet hook (I used Odyssey Crochet Hook Black by Furls Crochet)
o 3.5 mm crochet hook for edging
• yarn needle for weave in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

This Marble T-shirt has an easy construction and it’s seamless. It’s worked top-down starting with the back panel up to the armpit. Then the front is worked up to the armpit up to the armpit.

Then, both pieces are joined and the length from the armpit is worked in the round. This allows you to adjust the length as you wish just by working more or fewer rounds.

The sleeves are worked into the armhole in the round.

This Marble T-shirt pattern features techniques as double crochet, chain stitches, and single crochet.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The t-shirt pattern is available in 8 sizes from S up to 5XL.
Neckline width a: 20 cm (21, 23, 23, 23, 25, 25, 25)
Bust Width b: 47 cm (52, 57, 62, 67, 72, 77, 82)
Armhole Depth c: 20 cm (23, 23, 26, 26, 29, 29, 29)
Length: 50 cm (53, 53, 56, 56, 59, 59, 59)

How much yarn do you need?

I used Mediterranea from Katia Yarns. This yarn is 100% Egyptian Cotton each ball has 100 grams and 230 meters. I used color 303 – Green, Blue, Green

For each size, you will approximate need: 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) balls

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
Slst – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rounds
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 4.5 mm crochet hook in  mesh stitch pattern
6 windows = 10 cm
7 rows = 10 cm

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern, with step by step instructions, stitch and row counts from S up to 5XL sizes here:

STITCH PATTERN

The main stitch pattern is mesh stitch using double crochet stitches and chains
The edging is worked in single crochet stitches.
At every 5 rows/rounds, optional you can insert 2 rows alternating one window and one solid section.
Mesh Stitch
R1: ch5, skip next 2sts, 1dc in next, *ch2, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next. *rep. until the end of the row. ch5 and turn
R2: skip first 2ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *ch2, skip next 2ch-sp, 1dc in next dc. *rep. until the end of the row. ch5 and turn.
to work a solid section, instead of ch2 and skip the 2ch-sp, work 2dc in the 2ch-sp

PATTERN NOTES
The back and front pieces, up to the armpit are worked flat. Turn after each round.

The length from the armpit is worked in the round but turn after each round.
ch5 at the end of each row/round that starts with a window.

If the row/round starts with a solid section, ch3 at the end of the previous round.
Ch3 counts as the first dc.

The pattern is written only for the mesh stitch. The rows with alternating windows and solid sections are optional.

INSTRUCTIONS

Numbers for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL are written between brackets. If not the pattern applies to all sizes.

Back Panel (from shoulders to armpit)

Start: ch85 (94, 103, 115, 121, 130, 142, 148)
ch 5 more stitches and start in the 9th stitch
R1: 1dc, *2ch, skip next 2sts, 1dc in next st. *rep. until the end of the row. 5ch and turn
R2: skip first 2ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *2ch, skip next 2ch-sp, 1dc in next dc. *rep. until the end of the row. 5ch and turn.
Rep. R2 until you have in total 14 (16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20) rows.

fasten off.

Front Panel (from shoulders to armpit)

Use stitch markers to mark the neckline.
Mark for shoulders: 8 (9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17) windows (2ch-sps)
Mark for neckline: 12 (13, 14, 14, 14, 15, 15, 15) windows (2ch-sps)
Work the first 4 rounds of the front panel only in the shoulder stitches.

Right shoulder

join the yarn into the first stitch of the back panel’s foundation chain.
R1: 5ch, skip next 2ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *2ch, skip next 2ch-sp, 1dc in next dc. *rep until you have 8 (9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17) 2ch-sp. 5ch and turn.
R2 – R3: rep. R1.

For the left shoulder, rejoin yarn into the last marked st, next to the neckline, and repeat the same pattern as for the right shoulder.

R5: start the round from where your yarn is.
skip next 2ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *2ch, skip next 2ch-sp, 1dc in next dc. *rep until the end of the left shoulder; ch 35 (38, 41, 41, 41, 44, 44, 44) sts, 1dc into the first dc of the right shoulder, *2ch, skip next 2ch-sp, 1dc in next dc. * rep. until the end of the row. ch5 and turn.
R6:skip next 2ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *2ch, skip next 2ch-sp, 1dc in next dc. *rep until the end of the row. 5ch and turn.
*into the neckline’s chain stitches, work the stitch pattern the same as into the foundation chain. *2ch, skip next 2sts, 1dc in next st.

Rep. R6 until you have in total 14 (16, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20) rows. 5ch and turn.

Trunk (length from armpit to bottom)
R1:joining round
skip first 2ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *2ch, skip the next 2ch-sp, 1dc in next dc. *rep. until you complete the front panel sts; continue with 2ch, 1dc in the first dc of the back panel, *2ch, skip next 2ch-sp, 1dc in next dc. *rep. until you complete the back panel sts; close the round with 2ch and slst into the third ch. 5ch and turn.
R2: skip first 2ch-sp, *1dc in next dc, 2ch, skip next 2ch-sp. *rep until the end of the round; close the round with sl st into the third chain.
R3 – R30: rep. R2.

Sleeves

Rejoin yarn at the armpit.
R1: 5ch, skip the next side row, *1dc between the rows, 2ch, skip the next side row. *Rep. until the end of the round. Close the round with sl st into the third chain. 5ch and turn
R2: skip first 2ch-sp, *1dc in next dc, 2ch, skip next 2ch-sp. *rep until the end of the round; close the round with sl st into the third chain.
R3-R4: rep. R2

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern, with step by step instructions, stitch and row counts from S up to 5XL sizes here:

EDGING

Work the edging around the bottom hem, sleeves, and neckline.
The Edge is worked in the round using single crochet stitches, only on the right side.
Use a 3.5 mm crochet hook.

R1: 1ch, 1sc in each st around. Close the round with an slst into the first sc.
R2 – R3: Rep. R1.

TO FINISH

Weave in all loose ends and block to measurements.

And that was it! 😊. I hope you will like it and make it because is working pretty fast and you will have a new t-shirt in no time.

Until, next time, Happy Crochet!