Author

Bykaterina

Browsing

I started working on the Lava Pullover prototype last year in February. I used leftover yarn, different fibers, and weights, and I loved the result. But I didn’t have time to finish that first sample, maybe because I cut the yarn at every round, and there were so many ends to weave in. Don’t get me wrong, I got over being “scared” about weaving the ends, but I think I stopped working on it because I felt that nobody would like to try a sweater/top like this with so many ends.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also for the yoke section for all sizes.

Even so, I didn’t want to give up on this project because I loved it so much. So I started working on a second sample at the end of the summer. I had a few skeins of Marathon 3.5 by Katia, and I said to try again. And here is how I ended up with the Lava Pullover.

Picking the name was a funny story. Sometimes when I don’t have ideas, I ask even my husband or daughter to tell me the first word that comes into their heads when seeing the project. Sometimes, I stick with that word or try to find some other related to it. This time my husband said “lava,” and I loved it.

Now, let’s see how you can make a Lava Pullover

MATERIALS

  • Yarn: DK weight yarn, size 3
    Crochet Hook:
  •  6.5 mm crochet hook
  •  5 or 5.5 mm crochet hook for the ribbing
  •  yarn needle for weaving in ends
  • Stitch markers
  • Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Lava Pullover has a top-down construction with a round yoke. It has a relaxed fit with a positive ease of about 18 cm around the bust circumference.

The sweater is worked in the round, only on the right side. Along the yoke section, there are several increases according to the needed yoke depth, bust, and sleeve circumference.

The yoke is then divided into sleeves and Body. The 3 parts are then worked individually until completing the desired length.

Work a single crochet in the back loop, ribbing on the bottom hem, and cuffs to finish the sweater.

For neckline finishing, work one round in  twisted single crochet.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Lava Pullover Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from Extra Small to 5X Large.
The model is 168 cm tall and wears a size Small.

*Neckline width a: 22 cm (22, 22, 22, 24, 24, 27, 27, 29)
Yoke depth b: 21 cm (22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29)
Bust width c: 50 cm (53, 55.5, 59, 62.5, 67.5, 72.5, 77.5, 82.5)
Sleeve circ. d: 31 cm (32, 34, 35, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51)
Sleeve Length e: 37 cm (36, 36, 36, 35, 35, 36, 36, 37)
Length f: 52 cm (53, 54, 55, 57, 58, 60, 61, 62)

How much yarn do you need?
I used Marathon 3.5 by Katia Yarns. The yarn composition is 75% acrylic and 25% WoolOne 1 skein has 50 grams and is approximately 125 meters.
The colors I used: 40 (Bubble Gum), 4 (Red), 39 (Orange), 12 (Dark Grey),
10 (Light Grey), 2 (Black), For each size, you will need:
Bubble Gum: 1 ( 1, 1, 1 ) ( 1, 1, 1, 1, 1.5) skeins
Red: 1 ( 1, 1, 1 ) ( 1, 1, 1, 1, 1.5)
Orange 1 ( 1, 1, 1 ) ( 1, 1, 1, 1, 1)
Light Grey: 2 (2, 2, 2) (3, 3, 3, 3, 3)
Dark Grey: 2 (2, 2, 2) (3, 3, 3, 3, 3)
Black: 3 (3, 3, 3) (4, 4, 4, 5, 5)

You will need approximately 925 (925, 1075, 1150, 1250, 1400, 1500, 1600, 1725) meters.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also for the yoke section for all sizes.

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
ss -slip stitch
scblo – single crochet in back loop only
tsc – twisted single crochet
ch-sp – chain space
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rows/rounds

TENSION

Using a 6.5 mm crochet hook in linen stitch
12.5 sts = 10 cm
13.5 rows = 10cm

STITCH PATTERNS AND TECHNIQUES

The main pattern is Linen Stitch, or Moss stitch worked in the round.
R1: *1sc, 1ch, skip 1st; *rep. to the end of the round. To close the round slip stitch into the first sc.
R2: 2ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next *1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next st; *rep. to the end of the round. To close the round, slip the stitch into the first ch.
Work a single crochet in the back loop for cuffs and bottom hem ribbing.
R1: 1sc in each st.
R2: 1scblo in back loop only.
Rep R2 until the desired length.
The ribbing is joined as you go with the bottom hem and sleeves edge. See the steps in the RIBBING section.
To finish the neckline, work one round in Twisted Single crochet (sc)
Insert the hook into indicated st, yarn over, pull out a loop, twist your hook clockwise, 180 degrees, yarn over, and pass it through both twisted loops.

PATTERN NOTES

  • Work the piece in the round only on the right side;
  • close each round with an invisible slip stitch – remove the hook from the working loop; insert the hook from back to front into the first st (single crochet or chain); grab the working loop and pass it through.
  • if the round starts with a single crochet, it will finish with 1ch; the next round will start with 2ch (the first ch won’t count as a single crochet; it will be part of the last sc) and will end up with an sc.
  • when starting with an sc, don’t work 1ch. Start directly with an sc;
  • the pattern below is written without a color pattern; The color pattern is 1 round in black, next round in dark grey, next round in light grey, and next round in one of the colors pink/red/orange. Change the last color with every color pattern repeat;
  • carry on the 3 colors, black, dark grey, and light grey, and cut the 4th color.
  • Change the color after making the invisible slip stitch; take the new color and pass through the working loop to have a new loop; pull the previous color until the loop is closed.
  • At the end of this document, you will find stitch charts for each size; the stitch chart represents one repeated section into the YOKE pattern; follow the stitch pattern from right to left every round.

INSTRUCTIONS

YOKE
For the yoke, we will follow an increasing pattern. To make it easier to understand, think about 1sc, 1ch as a stitch combo and remember that with every increase round, you will have with (1sc, 1ch) more between increases than on the previous increase round.

YOKE SIZES XS, S, M, L, XL, 4XL
The numbers are written as XS (S, M, L, XL, 4XL)
Start each round as explained above;
On the increase round, when the repeated section starts with 1ch, start the round with 2ch; the second ch will be part of the repeated section.
Sts between ( ) are worked into the same st/space. Sts between [ ] are repeated patterns.

Start: ch 54 (54, 54, 60, 60, 72); slip stitch to make a circle
R1: *1sc, 1ch, skip 1st; *rep. to the end of the round;
R2 (Inc): 2ch, skip 1st, *(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) into the next st, [1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next st] x 2 times*; rep. from * to * 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 12) times.
Total sts: 72 (72, 72, 80, 80, 96)
R3: Rep. R1
R4: 2ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next, *1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next; *rep. to the end of the round
R5: rep. R1
R6 (Inc): *[1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next] x 3 times, 1ch, skip 1st, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st*; Rep. from * to * 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 12) times.
Total sts: 90 (90, 90, 100, 100, 120)
R7: rep. R1
R8: Rep. R4
R9: Rep. R1
R10: Rep. R4
R11 (Inc): *(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x 4 times*. Rep. from * to * 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 12) times.
Total sts: 108 (108, 108, 120, 120, 144)
R12: Rep. R4
R13: Rep. R1
R14: Rep. R4
R15: Rep. R1
R16: (Inc): *[1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next] x 5 times, 1ch, skip 1st, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st*; Rep. from * to * 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 12) times.
Total sts: 126 (126, 126, 140, 140, 168)
R17:Rep. R1
R18: Rep. R4
R19: Rep. R1
R20: Rep. R4

R21: (Inc): *(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x 6 times*. Rep. from * to * 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 12) times.
Total sts: 144 (144, 144, 160, 160, 192)
R22: Rep. R4
R23: Rep. R1
R24: Rep. R4
R25: Rep. R1

Size XS only
R26 (Inc): *[1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next] x 23 times, 1ch, skip 1st, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st*; rep from *to* 3 times.
Total sts: 150
R27: Rep. R1
R28: Rep. R4

For size XS, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section.

Continuing the YOKE Sizes S (M, L, XL, 4XL).

R26 (Inc): *[1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next] x 7 times, 1ch, skip 1st, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st*; Rep. from * to *9 (9, 10, 10, 12) times.
Total sts: 162 ( 162, 180, 180, 216)
R27:Rep. R1
R28: Rep. R4
R29: Rep. R1
R30: Rep. R4

For size S, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section.

Size M Only
R31: (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x 15 times*; Rep. from * to * 5 times; To finish the round work 1sc, 1ch, skip last st.
Total sts: 172
For size M, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section.

Size L Only
R31: Rep. R1
R32: Rep. R4
Total sts: 180
For size L, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section.

Continuing the YOKE Sizes XL (4XL).
R31: (Inc): *(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x 8 times*. Rep. from * to *10 (12)times.
Total sts: 200 (240)
R32: Rep. R4
R33: Rep. R1

Size XL Only
R34: (Inc): *[1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next] x 19 times, 1ch, skip 1st, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st*; Rep. from * to * 5 times
Total sts: 210
For size XL, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section

Size 4XL Only
R34: Rep. R4
R35: Rep. R1
R36 (Inc): *[1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next] x 9 times, 1ch, skip 1st, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st*; Rep. from * to * 12 times.
Total sts: 264
R37: Rep. R1
R38: Rep. R4
For size 4XL, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also for the yoke section for all sizes.

YOKE SIZES 2XL, 3XL, and 5XL.The numbers are written as 2XL (3XL, 5XL)
Start: ch 60 (66, 72); slip stitch to make a circle.
R1:*1sc, 1ch, skip 1st; *rep. to the end of the round;
R2(Inc): 2ch, skip 1st, *(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) into the next st, [1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next st] x 2 times*; rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12) times.
Total sts: 80 (88, 96)
R3:Rep. R1
R4: 2ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next, *1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next; *rep. to the end of the round
R5 (Inc): *[1sc, 1ch, skip next st] x 3 times, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) into the next st, 1ch, skip 1st*.
rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12) times.
Total sts: 100 (110, 120)

R6: Rep. R4
R7: Rep. R1
R8: Rep. R4
R9 (Inc): *(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x 4 times*
rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12) times.
Total sts: 120 (132, 144)
R10: Rep. R4
R11: Rep. R1
R12: Rep. R4
R13 (Inc): *[1sc, 1ch, skip next st] x 5 times, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) into the next st, 1ch, skip 1st*.
rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12) times
Total sts: 140 (154, 168)
R14: Rep. R4
R15: Rep. R1
R16: Rep. R4
R17(Inc):*(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x 6 times*
rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12) times.
Total sts: 160 (176, 192)
R18: Rep. R4
R19: Rep. R1
R20: Rep. R4
R21 (Inc): *[1sc, 1ch, skip next st] x 7 times, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) into the next st, 1ch, skip 1st*.rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12)times.
Total sts: 180 (198, 216)
R22: Rep. R4
R23: Rep. R1
R24: Rep. R4
R25(Inc):*(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x 8 times*;rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12) times.
Total sts: 200 (220, 240)
R26: Rep. R4
R27: Rep. R1
R28: Rep. R4
R29 (Inc): *[1sc, 1ch, skip next st] x 9 times, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) into the next st, 1ch, skip 1st*.rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12) times.
Total sts: 220 (242, 264)

R30: Rep. R4
R31: Rep. R1
R32: Rep. R4

Size 2XL Only
R33 (Inc):(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x21 times*. Rep. from *to* 5 times
Total sts: 230
R34: Rep. R4
R35: Rep. R1
For size 2XL, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section

Size 3XL Only
R33 (Inc):(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x39 times*. Rep. from *to* 3 times; Finish the round with 1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in the last st.
Total sts: 248
R34: Rep. R4
R35: Rep. R1
R36: Rep. R4
For size 3XL, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section

Size 5XL Only
R33 (Inc):(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x10 times*. Rep. from *to* 12 times;
Total sts: 288

R34: Rep. R4
R35: Rep. R1
R36: Rep. R4
R37: Rep. R1
R38: Rep. R4
R39: Rep. R1

For size 5XL, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section

Summarize the YOKE section
Number of rows: 28 (30, 31, 32, 34, 35, 36, 38, 39)
Number of sts: 150 (162, 172, 180, 210, 230, 248, 264, 288)

BODY

When starting with the Body and separating the YOKE into sleeves and Body, the stitch pattern will repeat 1sc, 1ch, skip 1st or 1ch, skip 1st, 1sc. It depends on the size you are making.

Use 4 stitch markers to mark the back, front, and sleeves sts.
All 4 section needs a multiple of 2 sts

Back: 48 (52, 56, 60, 62, 70, 78, 82, 92) sts
Sleeves: 26 (28, 30, 30, 42, 44, 46, 50, 52) sts
Front: 50 (54, 56, 60, 65, 72, 78, 82, 92) sts

R1 (separating round):
Start from where your yarn is. The first section will be the back panel, so the first st will be next to the left sleeve.
Work in established pattern 48 (52, 56, 60, 62, 70, 78, 82, 92) sts, ch 15 (13, 13, 15, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13) sts, skip 26 (28, 30, 30, 42, 44, 46, 50, 52) sts, work in the established pattern 50 (54, 56, 60, 65, 72, 78, 82, 92) sts, ch 15 (13, 13, 15, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13) sts, skip 26 (28, 30, 30, 42, 44, 46, 50, 52)sts, and slip stitch with the first st.

Continue in the established pattern until you get to the desired length or until you have 34 (34, 34, 42, 42, 42, 58, 58, 58)
rows for the body

SLEEVES

Rejoin yarn at the armpit in one of the 1ch-sp.

Work in the established pattern until you get to the desired length or until you have
41 (42, 42, 45, 45, 46, 46, 48, 48) rows.

If you want to shape the sleeves, you can make some decreases.
dec: 2sc worked together; instead of working 1sc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1sc, you will work sc2tog.

RIBBING

Work the ribbing around the bottom hem and sleeves using a smaller hook (5.5 mm or smaller)

Start: rejoin yarn and ch11
R1: start in the second st, 1sc in each of the next 10sts, 1ss into the next 2sts of the bottom hem/sleeves edge; turn
R2: 1scblo in next 10sts, 1ch and turn
R3: 1scblo in each of the next 10sts, 1ss in next 2sts of the bottom hem/sleeves edge; turn

Rep. R2 and R3 until you complete the entire circumference.
Use slip stitches to join the ribbing edges.

To finish the neckline, work one round in twisted single crochet (see the STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES section)

Weave in all ends and block to measurements.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also for the yoke section for all sizes.

And you are done! You can find a video tutorial on my YouTube channel if you need visual help with making this sweater. You can click the image below.

I started to work on Dorea Vest because there were so many requests to recreate the Cozy Fluffy cardigan in a crochet version. It didn’t turn out as I expected. It might look easy, but it isn’t easy to make a knitting design in crochet and make it look the same. Even so, I was ready to finish the cardigan as it was, but after finishing one sleeve and using a different color for the stripes, I realized it was better to wear it as a vest.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. 

I was so happy with the result, even if it’s such a simple and easy design. After posting about it on social media, so many of you asked for a video tutorial. I wasn’t sure about it, as I had to make another one to film the entire process, but being a fast project, I said, why not? 

And after publishing the video tutorial, I said it would be a good idea to write a pattern, too 😅. So, here I am, sharing with you how to make the Dorea Vest.

MATERIALS

• *Yarn: Bulky Weight Yarn
• Crochet Hook
o 8 mm
o 6.5 mm for ribbing
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

*see more details about the yarn in “How much Yarn do you need?”

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Dorea Vest is a simple design and beginner friendly. The pattern has a simple construction and uses simple stitches.

The Dorea Vest is worked bottom-up. The first section is the length to the armpit when the front panels and back panels are worked in a single piece.
Next, the initial rectangle is split into the front and back panels, and each part is worked individually.

Then, use slip stitches to assemble the vest and stitch the shoulders.

To finish the vest, we add a ribbing.

CONSTRUCTION

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Dorea Vest is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with an 88 cm Bust circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL); US sizes 0/2 (4/6, 8/10, 12/14) (14/16W, 18/20W, 22/24W, 26/28W, 30/32W)
All the measurements use as reference Standard Body Measurements by ASTM International.

Bust width a: 52 cm (55, 57.5, 61) (64.5, 69.5, 74.5, 79.5, 84.5)
length to the armpit (short version) b: 27 cm (27, 27, 33) (33, 33, 36, 36, 36)
length to the armpit (long version) b: 45 cm (45, 45, 51) (51, 51, 54, 54, 54)
Armhole c: 21 cm (21, 21, 24) (24, 24, 27, 27, 27)
Length ( short version) d: 52 cm (52, 52, 61) (61, 61, 67, 67, 67)
Length ( long version) d: 70 cm (70, 70, 79) (79, 79, 85, 85, 85)

How much yarn do you need?

I made the Dorea Vest in two samples. One, using leftover yarn, 3 strands of yarn at once for the bigger stripes, and worsted weight yarn for the pink stripes. The 3 strands were 2 DK-weight yarn and one worsted weight.

For the second sample, I used 2 strands of Lang Yarns Soho (worsted weight yarn) for the bigger stripes and Wool Addicts Glory (bulky weight yarn) for the smaller stripes.

In total (short sample): 480 meters (500, 530, 660) (690, 750, 880, 940, 990)
In total (long sample): 640 meters (680, 710, 850) (900, 960, 1110, 1190, 1260)

ABBREVIATIONS

ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet
bpdc – back post double crochet
ss – slip stitch
R – rows
** – repeated section.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. 

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. 

TENSION

Using an 8 mm crochet hook:
in hdc pattern
8 sts = 10 cm
6 rows = 9 cm

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The main stitch pattern of the Dorea Vest is a half double crochet.

We also use slip stitches to join the shoulders and front post and back post double crochet for the ribbing.

Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc):
Step 1: Yarn over, insert the hook from front to back to front again, around the post of next designated stitch.
Step 2: Yarn Over, draw yarn through 2 loops on hook, twice (fpdc made)

Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc):
Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back again, around the post of next designated st.
Step 2: Yarn Over, draw yarn through 2 loops on hook, twice (bpdc made)

PATTERN NOTES

– work the piece flat; turn after each row;
– work 2ch at the end of each row, and turn; 2ch does not count as first hdc; work the first hdc into the first st;
– work the ribbing in the round; join with an ss into the third ch; the third ch at the beginning of the ribbing round counts as a bpdc;
– before ribbing work one round in sc; when working into the side rows, work 3sc at every 2rows; or follow your own tension;
– the instructions below are written without color pattern; work 4rows in one color and 2 rows in the second color;
– carry on the yarn without cutting it.
– to change the color, finish the last st with the next color to be used;

INSTRUCTIONS

Length to the armpit
Start: ch 84 (88, 92, 98) (104, 112, 120, 128, 136) sts;
ch2 and start in the row into the third st;
R1: 1hdc in each st to the end of the row; ch2 and turn.
Rep. R1 until you have 18 (18, 18, 22) (22, 22, 24, 24, 24) or how many rows you need for the short version and 30 (30, 30, 34) (34, 34, 36, 36, 36) for the long version.

Splitting into front and back panels

You can use stitch markers to mark the number of sts for each panel:

Front panels: 19 (20, 21, 23) (23, 25, 26, 28, 30)
Armpit sts: 3 (3, 3, 3) (5, 5, 7, 7, 7)
Back panel: 39 (42, 44, 46) (48, 52, 54, 58, 62)

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. 

Continue to work for each panel individually  14 (14, 14, 16) (16, 16, 18, 18, 18) rows.

Joining Shoulders

Use slip stitches to join the shoulders.

Insert the hook through the sts of both panels front and back, yarn over, and draw it through both sts and then through the loop on your hook.
Rep. until you join all the front panel sts with the corresponding number of sts from the back panel.

Proceed the same with the other shoulder.

Ribbing

Work the ribbing around the bottom hem and front panels edge in one single round.

Rejoin yarn into the middle st at the back panel’s bottom.
R1: 1sc in each st until the corner, 3sc in the corner, 1sc in each st of the front panel, then go around the neckline and then across the other front panel until the corner, 3sc in the corner and then 1sc in each st to the end of the round; ss into the first sc.
Note: work across the front panel edge 3sc at every 2 side rows.
R2: ch3, *1fpdc in next st, 1bpdc in next; * rep. until the end of the round; ss into the third ch.
Change to a 6.5 mm crochet hook.
R3: rep. R2.
Fasten off.

Rep. the same pattern for the sleeves.

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

And done! An easy and fast project that I have been wearing a lot since I finished it!

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. 

Click on the image below for the video tutorial.

I am always saying that knitting for me is an escape. Most of the time, I crochet, but I always have at least one knitting project to work on when all the crochet stuff becomes overwhelming. And this is how Kleos Sweater was born. 

I was inspired by the stitch pattern I used for the Sea Breeze Cover-Up knitting version, and I just used the same stitch pattern to make the Kleos Sweater.  I loved it so much, and for a while, it was my favorite project to pick it up in the evenings. It was so relaxing to work on it. But it didn’t last too much because it’s a pretty fast project :), which I know is a good thing :). 

When I chose the name for this sweater, I was inspired by the yarn name, which is Glory. It felt so “glorious” that I finished another knitting sweater, and I knew that needs to be something related :). After a short research, I found that “Kleos” from Greek is often translated as “glory,” and I liked it so much. 

I don’t know what else to say about the Kleos Sweater except that it is one of my favorite sweaters to wear right now. But I think it’s also because I don’t have too many knitting sweaters :). 

So, let’s jump into the best part of this post and see how to make the Kleos Sweater.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

 

MATERIALS

Yarn: Bulky Weight Yarn (Size 5 )
Knitting Needles
o 8 mm circular needles (80 cm or more cord length)
o 8 mm small circular needles (40 cm cord length) or double pointed needles for the sleeves

• optional 8 mm crochet hook for binding off and assembling (you can also choose to join the shoulders differently).

• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Kleos Sweater has a classic drop-shoulder design with an oversized fit with a positive ease of about 20 cm around the bust circumference.

The Kleos Sweater has a bottom-up construction. The first section is the length up to the armpit. Work this section in the round. Then work for the front and back panels separately across the armhole.
To shape the neckline, work the shoulders separately for the last few rows of the front panel.

After completing the front and back panels, join the shoulders stitches.

The last step is the sleeves. Pick up the sts around the armhole, and work in the round in the established pattern.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Kleos Sweater is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with an 88 cm Bust circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL); US sizes 0/2 (4/6, 8/10, 12/14) (14/16W, 18/20W, 22/24W, 26/28W, 30/32W)
All the measurements use as reference Standard Body Measurements by ASTM International.

Neckline width a: 19 cm (20, 21, 22) (23, 24, 25, 25, 26)
Bust Width b: 51 cm (54, 57, 60) (64, 69, 74, 79, 84)
Armhole depth c: 17.5 cm (18.5, 19, 20.5) (21.5, 22, 23, 24, 25.5)
Sleeve Length d: 43 cm (42, 42, 42) (41, 41, 42, 42, 43)
Length e: 59 cm (59, 61, 62) (63, 64, 65, 66, 67)

How much yarn do you need?

I used for my sample WoolAddicts Glory in color 078. Composition: 100% Merino. Each ball has 50 grams and is approximately 70 meters.

For each size, you will approximately need:

8 (9, 9, 10) (11, 11, 12, 13, 14) balls or
560 meters (590, 630, 680) (720, 770, 840, 900, 970)

ABBREVIATIONS

k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit two together
yo – yarn over
R – rows
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 8 mm needles:

in stockinette stitch pattern
11 sts = 10 cm
14 rows (1 pattern repeat) = 9.5 cm
The gauge is measured after blocking.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

STITCH PATTERNS AND TECHNIQUES

The entire sweater is worked in a pattern that combines stockinette stitch, eyelet stitch, and garter stitch. One stitch pattern repeat has 14 rows.

For the bottom hem, cuffs and neckline, the stitch pattern is 1-to-1 ribbing.

Stitch pattern repeat (in the round):
R1 – R4: k all sts
R5: *k2tog, yo; *rep. until the end of the round.
R6 – R8: k all sts
R9: rep. R5
R10 – R13: k all sts
R14: p all sts

When working flat (front and back panels across the armhole), purl the wrong side rows.

PATTERN NOTES

– The stitch pattern requires a multiple of 2sts.
– follow the instructions below if you want to make this cardigan to measure using your desired yarn weight and needle size.
– If you want to adjust the length, work the desired number of rows into the length up to the armpit.
– Use any method you like for casting on and binding off.

MADE TO MEASURE

Step 1: Choose your yarn and needle size and make a gauge swatch;
– work the gauge swatch in the eyelet stitch pattern for a better view of the final fabric of the cardigan;
– if needed, block the gauge swatch before any measurements because some fibers might change after blocking.
– measure the number of sts and rows you have in a 10cm square

Step 2: Take measurements
– use as reference bust circumference;
measure your bust circumference or take the measurements from the standard measurements table;
– add the ease (the ease is the room you will like between your body and the sweater; write the result down
– for the length, measure first the length to the armpit and then the armhole; if the sweater is wider than your shoulders, the armhole can be smaller, using as reference the upper arm and not the armscye; write this number down
– measure your arm length, starting from where the edge of the cardigan body will be; you can adjust the sleeve length while working as it is worked from the armhole to the cuff.

Step3: transform measurements into stitches and rows:

– using your gauge information, transform the measurements at Step2 into stitches and rows;
– adjust the result to a multiple of 2 for the stitch number.

INSTRUCTIONS

LENGTH TO THE ARMPIT
Cast on 114 (120, 126, 132) (142, 152, 162, 174, 184)
R1: k1, p1 until the end of the row.
R2-R8: rep. R1
R9 – R12: k all sts
R13: *k2tog, yo; *rep. until the end of the round.
R14 – R16: k all sts
R17: rep. R13
R18 – R21: k all sts
R22: p all sts
Rep R9 to R22 3 more times (64 rounds in total, counting with the ribbing)
*if you want to adjust the length, work as many rounds as needed.

FRONT PANEL ACROSS THE ARMHOLE

Next, we will work only on the front panel sts.
Use stitch markers and mark half the number of sts: 57 (60, 63, 66) (71, 76, 81, 87, 92) sts.

The number of rows is calculated to keep all the sts on the needles. If you find it easier to put the sts you are not working it on hold, do so.
This section, as well the as the back panel section, is worked flat; turn after each row.
Purl the wrong side rows.
Knit the garter stitch row (the last row in the stitch pattern repeat)
Start the eyelet row with k1 and finish it with k1 if you have an even number of sts. If you have an uneven number of sts, start with k2 and finish with k1 or reverse.
Work into the established pattern until you have rows for the front panel 16 (16, 18, 20) (22, 22, 24, 26, 28).

You can purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Shaping the neckline

Left Shoulder

For the left shoulder, we will decrease at the end of the row.
Before start working on the shoulders, use st markers to mark the shoulders sts:

23 (24, 25, 26) (28, 30, 32, 35, 37) sts for each shoulder.

Next row (only left shoulder sts): work in the established pattern until you have 4sts left, k2tog, k last 2sts turn
Next Row (only left shoulder sts): purl all sts
Rep. the last 2 rows, 5 times (for 10 rows); you will have in total, for the front panel, on the left side shoulder, 26 (26, 28, 30) (32, 32, 34, 36, 38) rows.
Next row: k all sts
Cut the yarn

Right Shoulder

Rejoin yarn and bind off the remaining sts up to the Right shoulder 12 (13, 14, 15 (16, 17, 18, 18, 19); with the stitch left on the right needle, you should have left for the right shoulder 23 (24, 25, 26) (28, 30, 32, 35, 37) sts.

For the right shoulder, we will decrease at the beginning of the row.
Next row (only right shoulder sts):k2, k2tog (or ssk2tog), work into the established pattern to the end of the row
Next Row (only right shoulder sts): purl all sts

Rep. the last 2 rows, 5 times (for 10 rows); you will have in total, for the front panel, on the left side shoulder, 26 (26, 28, 30) (32, 32, 34, 36, 38) rows.
Next row: k all sts
Cut the yarn

Now, the front panel is finished. Depending on how you will like to join the shoulders, you can bind off the sts (for the left shoulder, you need to do it right after finishing it);

Put the sts on hold, or keep them live on the needles.

BACK PANEL ACROSS THE ARMHOLE

Work into the established pattern until you have the same number of rows as for the front panel: 27 (27, 29, 31) (33, 33, 35, 37, 39) rows.

Next, depending on the method you would like to use for joining shoulders, you can keep the sts live or bind off.

I will explain below the method I used; you can also watch the video tutorial here.

Joining the shoulders

Start with the shoulders where the needles are now; use an 8 mm crochet hook or bigger. Place the needles one next to the other, pointing to the right.

Step 1: slip the first st of the top needle on the hook;
Step2: slip the first st on the bottom needle on the hook and pass it through the st you have already on the hook;
Step 3: Slip the next st on the top needle and pass it through the stitch on the hook
Step 4: Slip the next st on the bottom needle and pass it through the stitch on the hook;

Rep. Steps 3 and 4 until you finish all the shoulder sts.

Next, pass the back panel neckline sts on the small circular needles (that you will use for the neckline ribbing): 21 (22, 23, 24) (25, 26, 27, 27, 28) sts.
*if you don’t want to work the neckline ribbing next, you can bind off the sts or put them on hold
Next, follow the same method for the other shoulder to join the second shoulder.
As you have part of the neckline sts on the needles, you can pick up the rest and work the neckline ribbing.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

SLEEVES

Work the sleeves in the round using smaller cord needles (40 cm), DPN needles, or the loop method.
You can also work the sleeves flat, but it will be difficult for the first few rows.

Pick the sts for the sleeve around the armhole edge as follows:
Pick 2 sts through the first 2 side rows, and skip 1 row. In the end, you should have an even number of sts.

Work in the established pattern until you get to the desired length or until you have:

56 (56, 56, 56) (56, 56, 58, 58, 58) rows.

Before working the ribbing of the cuff, you can work one more round and make some decreases:
*k2tog, k1. *rep. until the end of the row.

CUFFS

R1: *k1, p1; *rep. until the end of the row.
R2 – R8: rep R1

Suppose you didn’t work the neckline ribbing after joining the shoulders. You can work on it now.

Pick up the sts around the neckline; make sure you have an even number of sts;
Work the ribbing pattern for 4 or as many rounds as you like.

TO FINISH
Weave in all loose ends and block to measurements

And done! I hope you like it!