This Holiday Sweater is the classic type of sweater to wear it during winter holidays. The combination of red and white and the “fair isle” pattern on the yoke is getting you there for sure. It’s true that most beautiful Fair Isle sweater are knitted, but if you are not a knitter and you still want this kind of sweater, this is for you.
This Holiday Sweater is a top – down sweater worked with a round yoke. We will start to work from the neck, working the yoke first and then separate the sleeves and work the body and sleeves individually.
This sweater has a closer fit and the length of the sweater and of the sleeves can be easily adjust on your taste, by just adding more rows.
I used for this Holiday Sweater Starlight from Hobbii. Starlight is a lovely, bulky wool mix twined with reflective thread. The reflective thread adds a subtle mixed look to the yarn, and will reflect strong sources of light in the dark .
Starlight is easy to work with and works up fast, so you will finish this sweater in no time.
The yoke of this sweater is the one that gives that Holiday flare and you know what, is super easy to make. It’s just about a combination of simple stitches like, linen stitch, single crochet and V stitch, but the result is amazing.
Another advantage of this sweater is that is worked top – down. so no seams and easy to adjust the length of the sweater and sleeves. Also, is available in 4 sizes from Small to 1 X Large, so you have a lot of good reason to make it. It will be a great Christmas Gift!
I hope I convinced you to go on Hobbii Website and download this pattern. You don’t have anything to lose because it’s free.
I am super happy with my Rainy Cloud Jumper because is super comfy, modern and easy to make.
When I decided to make this jumper, was just because I wanted to use some of my old unused yarn. Every time is happening the same: I’m starting a project not having an exactly idea about it and when it’s done I am amazed about the final result.
This Rainy Cloud Jumper is over – sized with a positive ease of 11 cm around Bust circumference. IF you want it to have a closer fit, start with less stitches.
This sweater is a top – down sweater. We are working first the cowl and then the yoke. After finishing the yoke we will divide it for body and sleeves.
The working technique is in circular rounds only on the right side of our work.
Chain 3 at the beginning of each round counts as first double crochet.
Start each round between the first V stitch. Slips 1 stitch to get in between the first 2 dc’s and start the round from there. You can also make 1 single crochet between the 2 first dc’s and the ch 2, instead of ch 3.
The pattern is available in 5 sizes, from Small to 2X large and is written in US terms.
All the measurements are in centimeters unless the pattern specified something else.
When is not specified other way, the pattern is applicable for all sizes.
The final measurements are listed in the diagram bellow. The figures are in cm
Neck Line a: 34 cm (36, 40, 43, 47)
Yoke Depth b: 21 cm (24, 28, 28, 32)
Bust Width c: 54 cm (59, 64, 69, 74)
Underarm Length d: 37 cm (37, 39, 39, 40)
Length e: 58 cm (61, 62, 63, 66)
How much yarn do you need?
For this pattern I used We love Yarn from Hobbii, which is 100% acrylic yarn. Each skein has 50 grams and approximate 150 meters.
Photo credit hobbii.com
For each size you will approximate need:
About the stitch pattern
This Rainy Cloud Jumper is worked in V stitch. We will do the V stitch by making 2 double crochet in one single stitch and then skip the next one.
Starting with 2nd round we will make the V stitch in the middle of the V stitches of the previous round.
We will also use sc crochet and twisted single crochet for edging.
To make the Twisted Double Crochet, you insert the hook in the next stitch, pull up a loop (keep both loops on hook loose), turn the hook counter clockwise (loops remain on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops.
It can be a little tricky pulling through those loops after the twist, so it’s definitely important to keep both those loops a little bigger than usual before the twist.
Abbreviations used in this pattern
Ch – chain
Sc – Single crochet
Dc – double crochet
St(s) – stitch(es)
Inc – increase (2 V st in the same space)
5.5 V sts – 10 cm (4”)
8 rows – 10 cm (4”)
You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download PDF version of this pattern here:
Close the ends of the chain with a slip stitch to make a circle.
For all sizes
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st, skip the next st, [2 dc (1 V st) in next, skip next st]. Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round. Finish the round with skip last st and join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting chain.
Sl st between first 2 dc, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in middle of the previous round V st to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.
Rounds 3 – 20
Repeat round 2. Fasten off.
Before starting the yoke turn the cowl on the wrong side. We will keep the cowl on the wrong side, so when is folded to show the right side as the rest of the sweater.
We will start working the yoke from the foundation chain of the cowl.
We will mark the sts in which we will make our corners increases.
We will count the V sts for each section of the yoke: front, back and sleeve.
S – 18 V sts for back and front, 5 V sts for the sleeves
M – 19 V sts for back and front, 5 V sts for the sleeves
L – 21 V sts for back and front, 5 V sts for the sleeves
XL – 23 V sts for back and front, 7 V sts for the sleeves
XXL – 25 V sts for back and front, 8 V sts for the sleeves.
The numbers for the sizes M, L, XL and XXL are written between brackets.
We will work the V sts, between the V sts of the first round of the cowl, but the sts will be reversed this time.
Inset the yarn ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in next 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) V sts, 1 Inc in next V st ( 2 V sts meaning 4 dc), 1 V st in next 5 (5, 5, 7, 8) V sts, 1 Inc in next, 1 V st in next 18 (19, 21, 23, 25) V sts, 1 Inc in next, 1 V st in next 5 (5, 5, 7, 8) V sts, 1 Inc in next, 1 V st in last 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) V sts and join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting ch.
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in each V st around. We are not increasing on this round.
Before start the 3rd round, mark the first V st of each corner increase.
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space,[ 1 V st in each V st until the first st of the next corner, 1 Inc ]. Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round, join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.
Repeat round 2 (round without increase)
Before starting round 5, mark the second st of the corner and this will be the V st in which you will have to increase on this round.
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space,[ 1 V st in each V st until the 2nd st of the next corner, 1 Inc ]. Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round, join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.
Next, we will repeat rounds 2 to 5 until we will finish the yoke. The idea of the yoke is that we will alternate 1 round with increases one round without and we will make the increase one round in the 1st st of the corner and one round in the 2nd st of the corner.
You will have in total for the yoke:
S – 12 rounds
M – 14 rounds
L – 16 rounds
XL – 16 Rounds
XXL – 18 rounds
The last round of the yoke will be a round without increasing.
Before starting working on the actual Body part of the Rainy Cloud Jumper we will have to make first the separating round.
To be easier to see which stitches we are skipping for the sleeves, we will use stitch markers to mark the stitches for back and front.
In each corner you have 2 V stitches. Starting with the beginning of the round, count the stitches until the first stitch of the corner and put the stitch marker. The second stitch marker will be placed in the second stitch of the next corner. The 3rd stitch marker will be placed in the 1st st of the next corner and the last stitch marker will be placed in the second stitch of the last corner.
Now that we have all the stitch markers in place we can start the separating round.
Start the round as usual and make 1 V st in each V st until you get to the 1st stitch marker, make 1 V stitch in the marked stitch, then ch 9, skip the sts for the sleeve and make 1 V st in the 2nd marked stitch. Continue with one V st in each V st to the 3rd marked st and make 1 V st here, ch 9, skip the sts for the sleeve and make your next V st in the 4th marked st. Continue with 1 V st in each V st to the end of the round and join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting chain.
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in each V st until the underarm ch, [skip 1 st, 1 V st in next] and repeat the section between [ ] until you have 4 V sts in the underarm ch. Continue with 1 V st in each st until you get to the 2nd underarm ch and proceed the same as at the first one. Continue with 1 V st in each V st to the end of the round and join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting chain.
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in each V st around. Join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting ch.
Next, repeat round 2, until you will have the desired length of the sweater or until you have in total 33 rounds (for all sizes).
After finishing the body length you will have to add the edging. Go to the Edging section of the pattern!
The sleeves are worked also in rounds. There are no decreases on the sleeves unless you want to do so.
Insert the yarn at the armpit, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in each V st around. Join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting chain.
Next, repeat round 1, making 1 V st in each V st around until you have the desired length, or until you have in total:
S – 27 rounds
M – 27 rounds
L – 30 Rounds
XL – 30 rounds
XXL – 31 rounds
After finishing the sleeve length add the edging.
You can add any edging you will like to finish your Rainy Cloud Jumper.
The edging will be made at the end of the sleeves, hem and collar.
On the right side
Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in each st around. Join with a sl st with first sc.
Repeat round 1.
On the wrong side
Ch 1 and turn, 1 sc in the same st, 1 twisted sc in each st around. Join with a sl st with first sc.
To finish, wave in all ends and done!
You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download PDF version of this pattern here:
Since October was entire about sweater weather, there is no doubt that the October Most Viewed Pattern is again My Precious Sweater.
This design was an actual hit and I am super happy that after one year from the original post, it’s still in your preferences. I am really trying to design something as much as popular as this sweater, but I think it will take some time.
If you would like to make a cardigan version of this beauty, you have to know that a FREE pattern is on Hobbii website, so go check it out!!
The idea of this sweater came from no where. I had the yarn for long time ago before even thinking that will end up in a gorgeous sweater. Some day I saw a similar sweater in a shop and I said to myself :Ok, this is beautiful and I can do it in crochet”.
So I came back home, grab some yarn and started. Everything worked so well that I was super excited with the sweater after just a few rounds. After posting the picture on Instagram and saw all your reactions I new that will be a great project.
My Precious Sweater pattern is not that hard to make even if it’s looking like so. Ones you get the idea of the pattern is easy to follow and you don’t want to let it down. It’s a top-down sweater made with the Raglan technique. We are starting from the neck, making first the yoke and then we will separate the sleeves from the body of the sweater and work the 3 parts individually.
The sweater is designed over – sized so if you want a closer fit you will have to size down. The pattern is available for sizes from S to 2X large and is written in US terms. In the pattern you will find a stitch chart, measurement diagram and all the details to help you make it.
Let’s see now some Q&A’s. Maybe you will get the answers on some concerns you have after you first saw the pattern.
Q: Why my stitches are off even if I’m following the pattern exactly?
A: Well this thing happens even if you are more experimented in this field and you don’t have to give up. When I was working at this pattern I was thinking how to make the Diamonds stitch to work in a yoke. So, I count the sts that I need for each side of the yoke (back, front, sleeves) and I saw this parts as individual. So this is what you should do too. Follow the stitch pattern on each side without thinking at the sweater as a hole project. Just think that each side is small project and you have to make the diamond stitch with the given stitches.
Take in mind that every time, before and after corner you will have an window. With every round, the windows of the previous round are becoming sts and the first and last stitch of a diamond motif become an window (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc)
Q: Why the sleeves are so large? I don’t like them like this.
A: Well like I said the sweater is designed over – sized. To have it like this I made a longer yoke and off course that after working more rounds on yoke the sleeves become larger as well. AS a solution you can make less rounds on the yoke. Also you can start with less sts for sleeve, but you will have to take into consideration that the pattern requires multiple of 10 + 1 sts.
Q: Why if I want to make the sweater in Large size the stitches are not matching?
A: If you want to make the sweater in a larger size like Large, 1X large or 2X Large, you will have to start the sweater with round 2 (for Large and 1X Large) and with round 3 for 2X large. Instead of starting with sets of 9 dc +1 window you will have to start with sets of 7 dc and 2 windows and sets of 5 dc, 1 window, 3 dc, 1 window.
Q: How can I make the sweater larger without making the sleeves larger too?
When working the working with the raglan technique, increasing in the corners, we are increasing the number of stitches for the body and for the sleeves as well. If you want to make the body larger, but keeping the sleeves as they are in the pattern, you can adjust the number of stitches for back and front side. One method is to start with more stitches for these sides. For example for size S the pattern had 31 sts for back and front meaning 3 diamond motifs. You can start with 4 diamonds, meaning 41 sts.
Another method is to add on the back and front more sts, but only for the windows. We are making the windows by ch 1, skip 1, one dc in next and you can add one more st and making the windows with ch 2, skip 2, 1 dc in next.
For example for size S, we have on the first round 4 windows. If we making them with 2 sts, this means that we will have with 4 sts more. So we will have to start with 35 sts instead of 31. This will make the body larger and without increasing the sleeves as well.
Because many of you ware struggling after round 7, I just update the original pattern with rounds 8 up to 10. Starting with round 11 you will just have to repeat the pattern from round 1, only that you will have with 2 repeats more. (Instead of 3 diamonds on the front and back you will now have 5)
And these ware the questions that I received since the pattern was live and I hope with the answers I clarified some aspects of this pattern, but if you have some more I will happily will help you as fast as I can.
Now if you want the pdf version of this pattern, you can find it on Ravelry or My shop. It’s listed for free and no code is needed. The offer will be available until November, 1st 10 AM CET. The pdf pattern is available in English and Dutch.
Below you will find a video tutorial which I hope it will give you some extra help if needed.
Have fun making this beautiful sweater and use @bykaterinacrochet when posting photos on social media. I will be more then happy to see them