Author

Bykaterina

Browsing

I had in mind making this Shining Bloom Market Bag since last year!! Now, after making this one, I am happy I didn’t, because I used a different yarn than planned initial and I am more than pleased with the end result.

The more complicated thing and time consuming for me as a designer is grading a pattern. That’s why from time to time I try to help my brain and give it a break with some accessories or some other design than garments.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Even if this wasn’t an easy pattern to write, with all diagrams and trying to explain each step, at least I didn’t have the math :).

But let’s see what you will need and how to make this Shining Bloom Market bag.

 Materials you will need

  • Category 3, Light weight yarn
  • 4.5  mm  crochet hook
  • Yarn needle for wave in ends
  • Scissors

Notes about design

This pattern requires techniques as single crochet, double crochet, chain stitches and double crochet stitches worked in groups of 2 or 4.

The bag is worked up from squares which are joined as we go.

At the end the bag’s straps are added.

The bag can be worked in any yarn weight you want. Using a thinner yarn will result a smaller bag and using a thicker yarn you will have in the end a bigger bag.

Final Measurements

Final measurements of the bag are listed below.

Width a: 32 cm

High b: 34 cm

How much yarn do you need?

For this bag I used Durable Glam by Durable Yarn. Each skein has 50 grams and approximate 130 m.

To complete the bag you will need almost 3 skeins.

Abbreviations used in this pattern

  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • 2 dc group – work 2 dc in the same space and close together
  • 3 dc group – work 3 dc, each in one stitch and close them together
  • 4 dc group – work 4 dc, each in one stitch and close them together
  • St(s) – stitch (es)
  • Ss – slip stitch
  • Sp – space
  • R| – round

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Gauge

1 square measures 15 cm in diagonal

About the stitch pattern

Each square has 4 rounds and each round has a different stitch pattern.

Below you can find the stitch chart for one square:

Pattern Notes

Ch 3 at the beginning of each round counts as first dc.

End each round with a ss

All the rounds are worked only on the right side.

Ch 1 at the beginning of a round which starts with a sc stitch doesn’t count as first st.

 

Instructions

We will start working the squares for the front side of the bag.

On the front side you will have in total 8 squares, placed like in the diagram below.

 The 2 sides squares and the bottom one will be fold in half and half of them will be on the back side of the bag.

 

Start| Make a magic ring

R1| 3 ch sts, 3 dc, 3 ch sts, *4 dc, 3 ch st. *Repeat 3 times. Ss with the 3rd st of the starting ch.

R2| 3 ch sts, 3 dc group, 3 ch sts, (2dc group, 3 ch sts, 2 dc group) in the 3 ch-sp, 3 ch sts, *4dc group, 3 ch sts, 2dc group, 3 ch sts, 2 dc group) in the 3 ch-sp, 3 ch sts. *Repeat 3 times. Ss with the 3rd st of the starting ch.

R3| 1 ch st, 1 sc in the same st, 3 ch sts, in the 3 ch-sp from the corner:[2 dc group, (3 ch st, 2 dc group) 3 times], 3 ch sts, *1 sc in the 4 dc group, 3 ch st, in the 3 ch-sp from the corner:[2 dc group, (3 ch st, 2 dc group) 3 times], 3 ch sts. *Repeat 3 times

R4| 1 ch st, 1 sc, 5 ch st, 1 sc in the next 3 ch st – sp, 5 ch st, 1 sc in the next 3 ch – sp, 5 ch st, 1 sc in the corner, in the corner: (7 ch st, 1 sc ), *5 ch sts, [1 sc in the next 3 ch sts – sp, 5 ch sts] repeat 4 times to the corner; in the corner: (1 sc, 7 ch sts, 1 sc).*Repeat on all sides of the square. Finish the round with 5 ch st, 1 sc in the next 3 ch sts- sp, 5 ch sts and join with the 1st sc.

This was the first square. With the next ones you will have to work up to round 3. The 4th round will be worked while joining it with the others squares.

You will start assemble the front side of the bag, following the diagram above. Start with the first 2 squares on the top.

Second square will be joined only in one corner. The others you will have to join them in one complete side, or 2 or even 3.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Let’s see how we are joining the squares:

Make the first 3 rounds of the square B. Begin the round 4 but only until you get to the corner. In the 3 chain space from the corner chain 3 (instead of 7).

Grab the square A, and join B with A corner with 1 sc (make sure that A is on the wrong side). Ch 3 and make another sc in the same ch 3 space of the corner of square B.

On the second square, after joining the corner you will have to continue working the round 4 as usual.

When you will have to join 2 squares on an entire side or even 2 or 3 you will have to proceed like this:

Make the first 3 rounds of the square C. Begin the round 4 but only until you get to the corner. In the 3 chain space from the corner chain 3 (instead of 7).

Grab the square B, and join C with B corner with 1 sc . Ch 3 and make another sc in the same ch 3 space on the corner of square C.

Ch 2 and join with one sc with the next ch 3 apace of square B.

Ch 2, 1 sc in the next 3 ch space of square C.

And continue like this until the next corner. On the corner proceed the same as on the first corner.

Continue in the same way if you have to join the current square with another square side. After you finish joining, complete the round 4.

Continue like this until you joined all 8 squares needed for the front side of the bag.

On the back side of the back you will have to add only 5 squares following the diagram below:

The gray half squares, are the ones you made on the front side, so on the back side you will have to add only 5 squares (the red ones) following the diagram above.

Top edging

After joining all the squares and you have now a bag shape, we will make a top border.

We will use sc stitches, all around the top.

Join the yarn on one side of one square and make sc in each ch space. If you have a 5 ch space for example, you will make 4 sc. The last sc from the current ch space and the first one from the next ch space are worked together like a decrease.

 When you get to a “valley”, where 2 squares are joined in corners, make a 3 sc decrease, working 3 sc together: 1st  sc will be the last st of one corner, 2nd one wil be in the sc st made for joining and the 3rd one will be the 1st sc of the next corner space.

On the 2nd round of the border, make 1 sc in each sc, and a 3 sc decrease in each “valley”.

Fasten off.

 

Bag straps

Make 2, one on the front side and one for the wrong side.

One bag strap is worked from the right top corner to the left top corner.

Mark 6 sts on the top corners.

R1| Join the yarn in the first inside st. Ch 70 sts, or as many sts as you want depending on the desired length. Join with a ss with the inside st of the other side. Make another ss into the next st and turn.

R2| 1 sc in each st, join with a ss into the next 2 sts and turn

R3| Repeat R2

R4| Repeat R2

Fasten off.

Repeat the same for the second strap.

To Finish

Wave in all ends and block if needed.

You can find a full video tutorial here

 

I have to say that this Summer Smoothie Top is the easiest Top-down garment ever!!!  You will love it.

Can you imagine that there are no increases? Yeeees! We don’t need them! This top is super beginner friendly and it’s that kind of a garment project that you can not fail with.

I simply love it and I know that will be one of my favorite tops to wear this summer, because is so easy to wear and comfortable and it looks amazing. 

So, if you are a beginner, or you want one crochet project that is super simple, this Summer Smoothie Top is what you were looking for!

You know that I love top down tops, especially because they are so easy to adjust. If you want a dress or a top with longer sleeve or why not a dress with longer sleeves you can do it, just by adding more rounds.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

let’s see the ingredients and recipe for this “delicious smoothie” 😁

Materials you will need

  • Category 1, Fine weight yarn
  • 3.5  mm  crochet hook
  • Yarn needle for wave in ends
  • Elastic band
  • Scissors
  • 4 stitch markers (optional)

Notes about design

This pattern requires techniques as single crochet, half double crochet, chain stitches and working in rounds

The Top is worked top-down.  An elastic band is used for the neck line. Being on the shoulders top, the elastic band helps the top not to slip.

The top has an oversized fit, with a positive ease of 10 cm around bust circumference after blocking.

Because of the mesh stitch used, the top requires blocking. After blocking the top will be with about 5 cm bigger in width and length.

The pattern is available in 8 sizes, from Small to 5X Large and is written in US terms

Final Measurements

Final measurements of the top are listed below. Measurements were taken after blocking:

Neck Line Width a: 38 cm (41.5, 45.5, 52, 55, 59, 63.5, 67,5)

Bust width b: 53 cm (58, 63, 68, 73, 78, 83, 88)

Upper Arm c: 38 cm (36, 39, 43, 48, 51, 55, 58)

Armhole Depth d: 17 cm (18, 20, 21, 22, 23, 25, 26)

Armpit length e: 27 cm (27, 27, 27, 27, 27, 27, 27)

This measurements will fit:

To Fit cm  

S

 

M

 

L

 

XL

 

2XL

 

3XL

 

4XL

 

5XL

Bust 86 96 106 116 126 136 146 156

 

How much yarn do you need?

For this sweater I used Concept Silk Degrade by Katia. One cake has 150 grams and approximate 600 meters

For each size you will approximate need:

Abbreviations used in this pattern

  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Sp – space
  • R| – round

Gauge

26 sts  = 10 cm (4”)

13 windows = 10 cm (4”)

14 rows = 10 cm (4”)

*in the stitch pattern before blocking

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

About the stitch pattern

We are using for this pattern a mesh stitch made of half double crochet and chain sts.

*1hdc, 1 ch st, skip 1. Repeat to the end of the round.

Next round will start in a 1 ch sp and the hdc sts will be worked in the 1 ch sp.

Pattern Notes

Ch 2 at the beginning of each round counts as first hdc.

End each round with a sl st in the second st of the starting ch

All the rounds are worked only on the right side.

The numbers for sizes M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL  are written between brackets. If not, the pattern applies for all sizes.

Instructions

Yoke

 Start| Use an elastic band of 76 cm (83, 90, 104, 110, 118, 127, 135). Sew the end

Foundation| Go with the hook under the elastic band, make the slip knot and pull it in front. Ch 1

With the hook going under te elastic band, from front to back, yarn over, pull the yarn in front, yarn over and pull it through both loops on the hook.

You just made a sc around the elastic band.

Repeat until you covered all the elastic band.

You should have at the end of the round:

  • S – 400 sc
  • M – 432 sc
  • L – 480 sc
  • XL – 548 sc
  • 2XL – 580 sc
  • 3XL – 620 sc
  • 4XL – 668 sc
  • 5XL – 708 sc

Join with a sl st with 1st sc

R1| 2 ch sts, 1hdc in each st to the end of the round. Join with a sl st in 2nd st of the starting chain.

R2| 3 ch st, skip next st, *1 hdc in next st, 1 ch st, skip 1 st. * Repeat to the end of the round. Sl st with 2nd st of the starting ch.

R3| Start the round in the 1st 1 ch sp.

3 ch sts, skip next hdc, *1 hdc in next 1 ch sp, 1 ch st, skip next hdc. * Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with 2nd st of the starting chain.

R4| Start the round in the last 1 ch sp of the previous round.

Repeat R3.

Repeat R3 and R4 until you will have in total for the yoke:

  • S – 16 rounds
  • M – 18 rounds
  • L – 21 rounds
  • XL – 22 rounds
  • 2XL – 24 rounds
  • 3XL – 25 rounds
  • 4XL – 28 rounds
  • 5XL – 30 rounds

Separating Round

Use stitch markers to mark the sections of the top: back, front and sleeves.

Where the yarn is will be the first st of the back panel.

Count just the 1 ch sp to be easier:

  • S – 62 ch sp for back and front and 38 ch sp for each sleeve
  • M – 68 ch sp for back and front and 40 ch sp for each sleeve
  • L – 76 ch sp for back and front and 44 ch sp for each sleeve
  • XL – 87 ch sp for back and front and 50 ch sp for each sleeve
  • 2XL – 89 ch sp for back and front and 56 ch sp for each sleeve
  • 3XL – 95 ch sp for back and front and 60 ch sp for each sleeve
  • 4XL – 102 ch sp for back and front and 65 ch sp for each sleeve
  • 5XL – 109 ch sp for back and front and 68 ch sp for each sleeve

After marking the 4 sections of the top we can start the separating round:

For all sizes:

3 ch sts, skip next hdc, *1 hdc in next 1 ch sp, 1 ch st, skip next hdc. * repeat to the first st marker, ch 11, skip the sts for the sleeve, *1 hdc in next 1 ch sp, 1 ch st, skip next hdc. Repeat to the next stitch marker, ch 11, and join with a sl st with the 2nd st of the starting ch.

Body

R1| Start the round in the first 1 ch sp.

3 ch sts, skip next hdc, *1 hdc in next 1 ch sp, 1 ch st, skip next hdc. Repeat until you get to the armpit chain, *1 hdc in the 1st ch st of the armpit ch, 1 ch st, skip next st. *Repeat 6 times, 1 hdc in the last st of the armpit chain, 1 ch st, skip next hdc, *1 hdc in the next 1 ch sp, 1 ch st, skip next hdc. Repeat to the next armpit chain, *1 hdc in the 1st ch st of the armpit ch, 1 ch st, skip next st. *Repeat 6 times, 1 hdc in the last st of the armpit chain, 1 ch st and join with sl st with 2nd st of the starting ch.

R2| Start the round in the last 1 ch sp of the previous round.

3 ch sts, skip next hdc, *1 hdc in next 1 ch sp, 1 ch st, skip next hdc. * Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with 2nd st of the starting chain.

R3| Start the round in the first 1 ch sp of the previous round and repeat R2.

Repeat R2 and R3 until you have the desired length or until you have 22 rounds.

Edging

Bottom edging

1 ch st, 1 sc in the same 1 ch sp, skip the next space, *5 dc in the next 1 ch sp, skip next 1 ch sp, 1 sc in next 1 ch sp, skip 1 ch sp. * Repeat to the end of the round.

Fasten off

Sleeves Edging

Join the yarn at the armpit and repeat the same pattern as for the bottom of the top.

Repeat on the other sleeve.

To finish

Wave in all ends and block to measurements.

And that was it! Can’t wait to see your “smoothies” this summer!

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

You can also find a step by step tutorial here:

 

Every time I can use the left over yarn to make something beautiful and nice, I am so happy! I always try to find things to make with the left over yarn, because I don’t like to throw it away.

This project is perfect if you have some left over yarn. Is for those few meters of yarn you had left and you never imagined that you could make something with it 🙂 

I made these bracelets also because I wanted to make something with my daughter. She was so happy to put the beads on the yarn and that she could be helpful. In case you have bigger kids than mine (mine is 4 years old), they can make these bracelets by their own and I am sure they will be super happy and proud.

I included this pattern and step by step instructions in “Crochet & Knit for beginners” and the PDF version can be downloaded for FREE here

Let’s see what we will need for these cute Left Over Yarn Bracelets and how to make them:

Materials you will need

  • Yarn
    • Category 1 ( Fingering, 4 ply, super fine yarn)
  • Crochet Hook
    • 5 mm crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • 10 3 mm beads (you might need more or less depending on the length of the bracelet)
  • Transparent nail polish (optional)

 

Pattern notes

This Bracelets pattern uses techniques like chain stitch, double crochet and crochet with beads.

The bracelets can be made without beads as well.

Skill Level required is easy.

 Final measurements

After 10 stitch pattern repeats the bracelet measures 14 cm.

 How much yarn do you need?

This bracelets are perfect for left over yarn because you will need about 1-2 meters only, depending on the length you need.

Step 1: Before starting to make the bracelet, we have to insert the beads. Use the transparent nail polish and wipe the end of the yarn. Let it dry. This will make the yarn harder and easier to insert it through the beads hole. If you don’t know how many pattern repeats you will need for the bracelet length, you can insert more beads, and remove the ones left at the end.

When you have all beads on the yarn is time for crochet.

Step 2: Leave a long tail and make a slip knot.

*Ch 3, slide 1 bead close to the hook, yarn over and make a dc in the first ch st of 3. * Repeat 10 times or until you have the desired length.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

I included this pattern and step by step instructions in “Crochet & Knit for beginners” and the PDF version can be downloaded for FREE here

Step 3 Sliding Knot closure

I put 2 beads on the bracelet ends, just to know which the bracelet ends are and which are the sliding knot ends.

Place the bracelet ends one on top of the other, without overlapping them.

Take a strand of yarn, about 20 cm, and fold it in 2, keeping one end longer and one shorter.

Place it over the bracelet ends with the loop on the left.

Take the longer end and wrap it over a few times, at least 3, from left to right. Keep the loops looser and don’t overlap them.

Insert the crochet hook through the loops from left to right, grab the longer end (the one you wrapped it) and pull it through the loops.

Grab both knot ends pull and tie the knot.

Make 1 knot on both sliding knot ends, closer to the sliding knot and cut the rest of them.

And done! You have a sliding knot closure for your bracelet.

Make as many bracelets as you want in any colors you want.

You can also find a step by step video tutorial here

I included this pattern and step by step instructions in “Crochet & Knit for beginners” and the PDF version can be downloaded for FREE here