Author

Bykaterina

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After 4 years since I designed the original Sea Breeze Cover-Up Dress, I finally managed to update the pattern and use all the knowledge I have now to improve it.

This design is fantastic and means a lot to me. It was my first design that was “seen” and made by so many of you, and I could not be more grateful.

I must admit that knowing many things about sizing and grading didn’t help me update this pattern πŸ˜…! I found it quite challenging to write it again, even if the design itself is straightforward to make. But after a few long hours, I manage, and I am happy to share with you the new version.

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

MATERIALS

β€’ Yarn: Size 1 or 2, Fingering or Sport Weight yarn
β€’ Crochet Hook:
o 3.5 mm crochet hook
β€’ yarn needle for weaving in ends
β€’ Scissors
β€’ stitch markers

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Sea Breeze Cover-Up Dress has a top-down construction with a V pattern on the front and back panels. The dress is worked in the round, except when working front and back panels across the armholes.

The Sea Breeze Cover-Up Dress has a closer fit with no positive or negative ease.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Sea Breeze Cover-Up Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with an 86 cm Bust circumference, and wears a size XSmall.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M), (L, XL), (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL); the US sizes 0/2 (4/6, 8/10), (12/14, 14/16W), (18/20W, 22/24W, 26/28W, 30/32W)
All the measurements use as reference Standard Body Measurements by ASTM International.

Final Measurements of the Sea Breeze Cover-Up
Neck to Bust Center a: 19cm (19, 20), (21, 22), (23, 25, 27, 30)
Armhole depth b: 12cm (14, 14), (16, 16), (17, 19, 21, 23)
Bust width c: 41cm (44, 46.5), (50, 53.5), (58.5, 63.5, 68.5, 73.5)
Length. d: 72cm (72, 72), (72, 72), (72, 72, 72, 72)

How much yarn do you need?
For the Sea Breeze Cover-Up, I used:
Hobbii Azalea in Color Berry Rose (07). Yarn composition: 52% cotton, 48% acrylic. One cake has 200 grams and 800 meters.
For bigger sizes, you can use a solid color in the same shade as the cake’s beginning or end. For the color I used, one suggestion is Hobbii Twister Solid in color Dark Denim (126)
Other yarn suggestions: Hobbii Twister, Scheepjes Whirl

For each size, you will need:

*785 (845, 890), (960, 1025) ,(1120, 1220, 1310, 1405) meters
For sizes S, M L, XL, XXL, and 3XL, you can use 1 variegated cake yarn and one cake solid. For sizes 4XL, 5XL you can use 2 cakes of variegated yarn

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rows
*,**,***,**** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 3.5 mm crochet hook in the main stitch pattern

21sts (dc) = 10 cm
10 rows = 10 cm
4 rows (1 pattern repeat) = 4cm

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The stitch pattern is created by alternating solid rows with mesh stitch rows.

Solid Row: 3ch, 1dc in each of the indicated stitches
Mesh st row: 4ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, *1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st. *rep. until indicated.

Pattern repeat:
R1: a solid row
R2: Mesh st row
R3: mesh st row
R4: a solid row

Rep. R1 – R4 as indicated.

PATTERN NOTES

  • work the first 4 rows in the round;
  • work front and back panels, across the armholes flat; turn after each row
  • ch3 at the beginning of each row/round; ch3 counts as the first dc;
  • when working the first 4 rounds, after each round you will have 8 sts more;
  • when working front and back panels, after each row, you will have 4 stitches more
  • if you use a variegated yarn, work for the front and back panels alternatively, 4 rows on each;

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

If the indicated measurements in this pattern don’t fit you, you can adjust this pattern according to your measurements and gauge.

Here is how:

Step 1: Make a gauge swatch and count the number of sts and rows you have in a 10/10 cm square

Step 2: Calculating the number of stitches to start with:
1. Measure Neck to Bust center length (a); Bust Center can be as high or low as you wish, depending on how deep you want the V Neck to be.
2. Multiply the result by 4; the result will be the starting circumference in measuring units;
3. Transform cm (inches) into stitches:
circ. in cm x number of sts from your gauge / 10 (this is your swatch width in cm)
4. Adjust the total number of stitches to match the stitch pattern requirements;

The mesh stitch pattern requires a multiple of 2+1 stitches.
so, the next result: (total number of sts – 2)/2, needs to be a multiple of 2+1.
Now that you have the number of stitches to start, you can follow the stitch pattern for the first 4 rows.

  • Step 3: Measure the armhole depth (b):
    the starting point should be perpendicular to the Neck to Bust center line; the endpoint should be at the middle of your armpit, with 2-3 cm below for comfortable wearing.
  • use the first 4 rows you already worked as a reference, and use a stitch marker to mark the starting point
  • mark the same number of sts on the left and right of the center point of your work (3ch-sp)
  • measure bust width (c)
  • transform length (b) into rows
  • start working the armhole rows and keep measuring the bust width on your work.
  • if after finishing the total number of rows, the bust width is too small, you can
    1. either work a few more rows, or
    2. add extra armpit sts, when joining front and back panels, to work the trunk
  • measure the armpit length (d) and transform the length into rows (according to your gauge)

INSTRUCTIONS

Start: ch 161 (161, 169), (177, 185),
(193, 217, 233, 257)
Foundation row: start with the second st, 1sc in each st until the end of the row; join with an ss into the first sc.
Total: 160 (160, 168), (176, 184),
(192, 216, 232, 256) sc

Use 2 st markers and mar the first st and the st number 81 (81, 85), (89, 93),
(97, 109, 117, 129); you should have between stitch markers 79 (79, 83), (87, 91), (95, 107, 115, 127);

R1: 3ch, 1dc in the same st, 1dc in next 79 (79, 83), (87, 91), (95, 107, 115, 127) sts, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) in the next st (the marked st), 1dc in next 79 (79, 83), (87, 91), (95, 107, 115, 127), 2dc into the first st, 3ch, ss into the third ch.
Total: 168 (168, 176), (184, 192),
(200, 224, 240, 265)

R2: 4ch, skip next st, 1dc in next st, *1ch, skip next st, 1dc in next st. *rep. until the 3ch-sp, 1ch, (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1ch, 1dc into the next dc, **1ch, skip next st, 1dc in next st. **rep. until the 3ch-sp, 1ch, (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1ch and ss into the third ch.
Total: 176 (176, 184), (192, 200),
(208, 232, 248, 272)

R3: 4ch, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, 1dc in next dc; rep. until the 3ch-sp, 1ch, (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) into the 3ch-sp, **1ch, 1dc in next dc; **rep. until the next 3ch-sp, 1ch, (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1ch, 1dc into the next dc, 1ch and ss with the third ch.
Total: 184 (184, 192), (200, 208),
(216, 240, 256, 280)

R4: 3ch, 1dc in each of the following dc and 1ch-sp, until the 3ch-sp, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1dc in each of the following dc and 1ch-sp until the next

3ch-sp, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1dc into the last 4sts, ss into the third ch.
Total: 192 (192, 200), (208, 216),
(224, 248, 264, 288);

Cut the yarn.

FRONT AND BACK PANELS

  • work front and back panels, across the armholes flat; turn after each row
  • if you use a variegated yarn, work for the front and back panels alternatively, 4 rows on each;
  • use stitch markers and mark the front and back panels stitches following the instructions below;

 

Your 4rows collar folded will look something similar to the sketch above.
Count the sts for the back and front panel, from the 3ch-sp center point to the right and left.

33 (35, 37), (37, 43), (45, 49,53, 55);
You will have in total for the front and back panels 66 (70, 74), (74, 86), (90, 98,106, 110) sts, and 1 ch3-sp.

BACK PANEL
Rejoin yarn into the right marked st; 3ch
R1: 1dc in each st until the 3ch-sp, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1dc in each st until the end of the row; 4ch and turn
Total: 70 (74, 78), (78, 90), (94, 102,110, 116)

R2: skip next st, 1dc in the next st, *1ch, skip next st, 1dc into the next st. *rep. until the 3ch-sp, 1ch, (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1ch, 1dc into the next dc, **1ch, skip next st, 1dc into the next st; **rep. until the end of the row. 4ch and turn.
Total: 74 (78, 82), (82, 94), (98, 106,114, 120)

R3: 1dc in next dc, *1ch, 1dc in next dc; *rep. until the 3ch-sp, 1ch, (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) into the 3ch-sp, **1ch, 1dc into the next dc; **rep. until the end of the row; 3ch and turn
Total: 78 (82, 86), (86, 98), (102, 110,118, 124)

R4: 1dc in each dc and 1ch-sp until the 3ch-sp, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1dc in each dc and 1ch-sp until the end of the row. 3ch and turn
Total: 82 (86, 90), (90, 102), (106, 114, 122, 128)

Rep. R1 – R4 until you will have for BACK PANEL 11 (13, 13), (15, 15), (16, 18, 20, 23)

At the end of the last row you will have

110 (122, 126), (134, 146), (154, 170, 186, 198) sts.

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

FRONT PANEL

Repeat the same pattern as for the BACK PANEL

JOINING ROUND

  • depending on the size you are making, the joining round will be a solid row or a mesh stitch row;
  • you will follow the same joining technique but in the required pattern

Joining Round – Solid
Start from where your yarn is, 3ch, and turn
1dc in each st until the 3ch-sp, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1dc in each st until

1dc into the last st, 1dc into the first st of the back/front panel, 1dc in each of the next sts, until the 3ch-sp, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1dc in each of the next sts until the last st of the back/front panel, 1dc in the last st, ss with the third ch of the front/back panel.

Continue with the BODY section.

Joining Round – Mesh Stitch

Start from where your yarn is; 4ch and turn.
skip 1st (ch-sp or dc), 1dc in next, *1ch, skip next st, 1dc in next; rep. until the 3ch-sp, 1ch, (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1ch, **1dc into the next dc, 1ch, skip next st; ** rep. until the last st of the front/back panel, 1dc into the last st, 1dc into the first st of back/front panel, ***1ch, skip next st, 1dc into the next st; *** rep. until the 3ch-sp, 1ch, (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1ch, 1dc into the next dc, ****1ch, skip next st, 1dc into the next st; ****rep. until the end of the round, ss with the third ch.

Continue with the BODY section.

BODY

continue working in the round;
the first round of the body will be a solid or a mesh stitch round; follow the exact 4 rows pattern, repeat, and continue with the required type of row;
the pattern is written for solid row and mesh stitch row and

Solid Round

2ss (to start the round from the third st), 3ch, 1dc in each of the next sts until the 3ch-sp, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1dc in each of the next sts until you have 2sts left from the front/back panel, skip the last 2sts, skip the first 2sts from the back/front panel, 1dc in each of the next sts until the next 3ch-sp, (2dc, 3ch, 2dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1dc in each of next sts until you have 2sts left from the back/front panel, skip the last 2sts and ss into the third ch.

Mesh Stitch Round
2ss (to start the round from the third st), 4ch, skip next st, 1dc into the next, *1ch, skip next st, 1dc into the next st; *rep. until the 3ch-sp, 1ch, (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1ch, 1dc into the next dc, **1ch, skip next st, 1dc into the next st; **rep. until you have 2sts left from the front/back panel, skip the last 2sts, skip the first 2sts from the back/front panel, 1dc into the next st, ***1ch, skip next st, 1dc into the next st; ***rep. until the next 3ch-sp, 1ch, (1dc, 3ch, 1dc) into the 3ch-sp, 1ch, 1dc into the next dc, ****1ch, skip next st, 1dc into the next st; ****rep. until you have 2sts left from the back/front panel, skip the last 2sts and ss into the third ch.

Next, keep repeating these two rows, following the same pattern, 1solid row, 2mesh stitch rows, 1solid row, until you have the desired length, or until you have in total, counting from R1, 72 rounds, or 12 pattern repeats.

FINISHING

Neckline and armhole edging
Rejoin yarn in one of the sts.
*1ch, 1sc in each st around, ss into the first sc.
*when working into the armholes, work 2sc in each dc or 3ch side row.

Fringe
Cut the yarn into strands of about 20 cm.
Fold one strand in half; insert the hook into the st, grab the loop of the folded strand and pass it through the st; take the ends and pass them through the loop and tie.
Repeat in every stitch.
Note: you can work with many strands at once and make the fringe thicker; if you prefer, skip a few sts between the fringe.

TO FINISH

Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

I hope you like it! πŸ™‚

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

 

 

This Pride Blouse Design was in my head for years! I don’t know why I didn’t make it until now, but I am happy I finally did. I think that maybe it wasn’t the time for it. Who knows? 

I wasn’t that inspired when choosing the name, and  I used the yarn’s name. The yarn I used for this project is Wool Addicts Pride by Lang Yarns, and I thought it would be an excellent name for this project.

I don’t have too many words about this project, and I am afraid I will say what I always say about any new design: I love it, and I hope you will love it too.

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

Now, let’s see what it is all about, what you will need, and how to make this blouse.

MATERIALS

β€’ Yarn: Size 3, DK, Light Weight yarn

β€’ Crochet Hook:
o 4 mm crochet hook 
o 4.5 mm crochet hook  (for the bottom and back panels edges)
β€’ yarn needle for weaving in ends
β€’ Stitch markers
β€’ Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Pride Blouse has an open back. The trunk is worked in a single piece up to the armpit and then split into front and back panels which are then worked individually to create the armholes.
The sleeves are worked into the armholes after assembling.
The shape of the trunk is a trapezium. We start with a smaller base and increase on the sides until the end of the piece.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Pride Blouse Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, has an 86 cm Bust circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M), (L, XL), (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL); the US sizes 0/2 (4/6, 8/10), (12/14, 14/16W), (18/20W, 22/24W, 26/28W, 30/32W)
All the measurements use as reference Standard Body Measurements by ASTM International.

 

Final Measurements of the Pride Blouse
The diagram above shows the final piece after assembling on the left, and on the right is the trunk piece before assembling

  • *Neckline width a: 20.5cm (21, 21.5), (22.5, 23), (23.5, 24.5, 25.5, 26)
  • Bust width b: 44cm (47, 49.5), (53, 56.5), (61.5, 66.5, 71.5, 76.5)
  • Armhole depth c: 18cm (19, 19.5), (21, 22), (22.5, 23.5, 24.5, 26)
  • Sleeve length. d: 47cm (46, 46), (46, 45), (45, 46, 46, 47)
  • Length e: 60cm (60, 60), (60, 61), (61, 62, 62, 62)
  • Starting base f: 51cm (54, 56.5), (60, 63.5), (68.5, 73.5, 78.5, 83.5)
  • Cross width front g: 40cm (41, 41), (44, 44), (52, 54, 54, 56)
  • Entire trunk width h: 98cm (101, 107), (121, 126), (145, 147, 151, 155)
    * if you need a bigger neckline, let more sts for it when shaping the front panel

How much yarn do you need?
For the Pride Blouse, I used:
Wool Addicts Pride; Yarn composition: 40% linen, 32% Cotton, 28% Viscose. Each ball has 100 grams and is approximately 280 meters.

For each size, you will need:

3 (3, 3), (3, 3), (4, 4L, 4, 4) balls or 660 (680, 710), (780, 830) ,(910, 960, 1000,1050) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – 2dc together
ss – slip stitch
ssblo – slip stitch in back loop only
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rows
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using a 4.00 mm crochet hook in the main stitch pattern

14sts (dc) = 10 cm
7 rows = 9 cm (one pattern repeat)

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

dc2tog (decrease): yarn over insert the hook into the indicated st, yarn over pull out a loop, yarn over and pass it through the first 2loops on your hook; yarn over insert the hook into the next st, yarn over pull out a loop, yarn over and pass it through the first 2loops on your hook, yarn over and pass it through all the loops on the hook;

The stitch pattern requires a multiple of 3+1 sts. The repeated pattern is 3 rows in dc and 4 rows in mesh stitch pattern

Mesh stitch:
R1: 1ch, 1sc, *4ch, skip 2sts, 1sc in next st. *rep. until the end of the row. 5ch and turn
R2: 1sc in the first 4ch-sp, *4ch, 1sc in the next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch and 1dc into the third ch. 1ch and turn.
R3: 1sc in the first st, *4ch, 1sc in next 4ch-sp. * rep until the end of the row. Finish the row with 1sc into the third ch.

PATTERN NOTES

  • work the trunk panel flat; turn after each row.
  • ch3 at the end of a dc row and turn;ch3 counts as first dc
  • for the mesh stitch pattern: ch1, if the row starts with an sc, or ch5 if the row starts with a half 4ch-sp;
  • 1ch before an sc starting row does not count as first sc; the first ch3 from the turning 5ch counts as first dc.
  • work the sleeves after assembling them into the armhole;
  • work the sleeves in the round, but turn after each round.
  • The pattern is written in US terms.
  • The pattern is written for 3 groups of sizes having a different increase pattern for the trunk panel; the pattern is written separately for each group of sizes.
  • stitch charts for the length up to the armpit and back panels across the armhole are at the end of this document

INSTRUCTIONS

TRUNK PANEL
SECTION 1 – length up to the armpit

SIZES XS, S, and M

Start: ch 71 (77, 83) and turn
R1: start in the second st
1sc in each st until the end of the row. 3ch and turn. (70, 76, 82 sc)
R2: 1dc in the first st (same as 3ch), 1dc in each of the following sts, except the last one, 2dc in the last st. 3ch and turn (72, 78, 84 dc)
R3: rep. R2 (74, 80, 86 sts).
R4: rep R2 (76, 82, 88 sts). 5ch and turn.
R5: 1sc in the first st (same as 5ch), *4ch, skip 2sts, 1sc in next st. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch and 1dc in the last st (same as the last sc). 1ch and turn. (25 4ch-sp, 27 4ch-sp, 29 4ch-sp)
R6: 1sc in the first st, *4ch, 1sc in next 4ch-sp).

*rep. until the end of the row; finish the row with 1sc into the third ch. 5ch and turn. (26 4ch-sp, 28 4ch-sp, 30 4ch-sp)
R7: 1sc in next 4ch-sp, *4ch, 1sc in next 4ch sp). *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch and 1dc in the last sc. 1ch and turn. (25 4ch-sp, 27 4ch-sp, 29 4ch-sp)
R8: rep. R6. 3ch and turn. (26 4ch-sp, 28 4ch-sp, 30 4ch-sp)
R9: 1dc in the first st, 3dc in each of the following 4ch-sp except the last one, 2dc into the last 4ch-sp, 2dc in last sc.
(81, 87,93 sts)

Next, rep. R3 – R9 until you have 32 (32, 32) rows.
At the end of this section, you will have
112 (118, 124 sts)
Next, move to SECTION 2 – Back and front panels across the armholes.

TRUNK PANEL
SECTION 1 – length up to the armpit

SIZES L and XL

Start: ch 86 (92) and turn
R1: start in the second st
1sc in each st until the end of the row. 3ch and turn. (85, 91 sc)
R2: 1dc in the first st (same as 3ch), 1dc in each of the following sts, except the last one, 2dc in the last st. 3ch and turn (87, 93 dc)
R3: rep. R2 (89, 95 sts).
R4: rep R2 (91, 97 sts). 5ch and turn.
R5: 1sc in the first st (same as 5ch), *4ch, skip 2sts, 1sc in next st. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch and 1dc in the last st (same as the last sc). 1ch and turn. (30 4ch-sp, 32 4ch-sp)
R6: 1sc in the first st, *4ch, 1sc in next 4ch-sp). *rep. until the end of the row; finish the row with 1sc into the third ch. 5ch and turn. (31 4ch-sp, 33 4ch-sp)
R7:1sc in next 4ch-sp, *4ch, 1sc in next 4ch sp). *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch and 1dc in the last sc. 5ch and turn. (30 4ch-sp, 32 4ch-sp)
R8: 1sc in the first st, *4ch, 1sc in the next 4ch-sp. *rep until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch and 1dc into the third ch. 3ch and turn. (31 4ch-sp, 33 4ch-sp)
R9: 1dc in the first st, 1dc in the next 2ch-sp, 3dc in each of the following 4ch-sp, 1dc in te last 2ch-sp, 2dc into the third ch.
(99, 105 sts)

Next, rep. R3 – R9 until you have in total 30 (30) rows.
At the end of this section, you will have
139 (145) sts
Next, move to SECTION 2 – Back and front panels across the armholes.

TRUNK PANEL
SECTION 1 – length up to the armpit

SIZES 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL

Start: ch 98 (101, 110, 116) and turn
R1: start in the second st
1sc in each st until the end of the row. 3ch and turn. (97, 100, 109, 115 sc)
R2: 2dc in the first st (same as 3ch), 1dc in each of the following sts, except the last one, 3dc in the last st. 3ch and turn (101, 104, 113, 119sts)
R3: rep. R2 (105, 108, 117, 123 sts).
R4: rep R2 (109, 115, 121, 127). 5ch and turn.
R5: 1sc in the first st (same as 5ch), *4ch, skip 2sts, 1sc in next st. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch and 1dc in the last st (same as the last sc). 1ch and turn. (36 4ch-sp, 38 4ch-sp, 40 4ch-sp, 42 4ch-sp)
R6: 1sc in the first st, *4ch, 1sc in next 4ch-sp). *rep. until the end of the row; finish the row with 1sc into the third ch. 5ch and turn. (37 4ch-sp, 39 4ch-sp, 41 4ch-sp, 43 4ch-sp)
R7: 1sc in next 4ch-sp, *4ch, 1sc in next 4ch sp). *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch and 1dc in the last sc. 1ch and turn. (36 4ch-sp, 38 4ch-sp, 40 4ch-sp, 42 4ch-sp)
R8: rep. R6. 3ch and turn. (37 4ch-sp, 39 4ch-sp, 41 4ch-sp, 43 4ch-sp)
R9: 2dc in the first st, 3dc in each of the following 4ch-sp except the last one, 2dc into the last 4ch-sp, 3dc in last sc.
(116, 122, 128, 134 sts)

Next, rep. R3 – R9 until you have 30 (30, 30, 30) rows.
At the end of this section, you will have
161 (164, 170, 1750 sts
Next, move to SECTION 2 – Back and front panels across the armholes.

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

SECTION 2 – Back and front panels across the armholes

Use stitch markers and mark the back panels’ stitches and the front panel sts

Sizes XS, S, and M

Right Back Panel
Start from where your yarn is.

R1: 5ch, 1sc in the first st, *4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc in next st, *rep. until you have 3sts left until the st marker, 4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc into the last st. 5ch and turn
R2: 1sc in next 4ch-sp, *4ch, 1sc in next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 4ch and 1sc into the third ch. 5ch and turn
R3: rep. R2
R4: rep. R2. 3ch and turn
R5: 2dc into the first st, 3dc in each of the following 4ch-sp, 1dc into the last 2ch-sp, 1dc into the third ch. 3ch and turn.
R6: 1dc in each dc, 2dc into the third ch, 3ch, and turn.
R7: 1dc into the first st (same as 3ch), 1dc in each dc until the end of the row. 1ch and turn,
R8:1sc into the first st, *4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc in next st. *rep until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch and 1dc into the last st. 1ch and turn
R9: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch and 1dc into the last st.
R10: rep. R9

R11: Rep. R9. 3ch and turn
R12:1dc into the 2ch-sp, 3dc into each 4ch-sp, 3dc in last sc. 3ch and turn
R13: 1dc into the first st, 1dc in each dc to the end of the row. 3ch and turn.

R13 was the last row for size XS. Cut the yarn and move to the FRONT
PANEL.

R14: 1dc in each dc, 2dc into the third ch. 5ch and turn

R14 was the last row for size S. Cut the yarn and move to the FRONT
PANEL.

R15: rep R1

Front Panel

Rejoin yarn into the marked st, ch1
R1: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, skip the next 2sts, 1sc in next st. *rep until the end of the row. 5ch and turn
R2: 1sc into the next 4ch-sp, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep until the end of the row, 2ch and 1dc into the last st. 1ch and turn
R3: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row, 4ch, 1sc into the third ch. 5ch and turn
R4: rep. R2. 3ch and turn

R5: 1dc into the 2ch-sp, 3dc in each 4ch-sp, 1dc into the last 2ch-sp, 1dc into the third ch. 3ch and turn
R6: 1dc into each dc to the end of the row. 3ch and turn
R7: rep. R6.
R8 – R11: Rep. R1 – R4

The following 2 (3, 4) rows work only the shoulder sts: 17 (18, 17) sts.

*for size M the last row for the shoulders will be a Mesh pattern which requires a multiple of 3 plus 1 sts, but you have a multiple of 3+2 (17sts). Finish the row by skipping 3 sts instead of 2

Left Back Panel

Rejoin yarn into the marked st and ch1
R1: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc in next st. *rep, until the end of the row, 2ch, 1dc into the same last st. 1ch and turn
R2: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, 1sc in next 4ch-sp. *rep until the end of the row, 2ch, 1dc into the last st. 1ch and turn.
R3: rep. R2
R4: Rep R2. 3ch and turn
R5: 1dc into the 2ch-sp, 3dc in each 4ch-sp, 3dc into the last st. 3ch and turn
R6: 1dc into the first st (same as 3ch), 1dc in each dc. 3ch and turn.
R7: 1dc in each dc, 2dc into the third ch. 5ch and turn.
R8: 1sc in the first st, *4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc in next st, *rep. until you have 3sts left, 4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc into the last st. 5ch and turn
R9: 1sc in next 4ch-sp, *4ch, 1sc in next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 4ch and 1sc into the third ch. 5ch and turn
R10: rep. R9
R11: rep. R9. 3ch and turn
R12: 2dc into the first st, 3dc in each of the following 4ch-sp, 1dc into the last 2ch-sp, 1dc into the third ch. 3ch and turn.

R13: 1dc in each dc, 2dc into the third ch, 3ch, and turn. (last row size XS)
R14: into the first st (same as 3ch), 1dc in each dc until the end of the row. 1ch and turn. (last Row size S)
R15: Rep. R1 (last row size M)

Sizes L and XL

Right Back Panel
Start from where your yarn is.

R1:1dc into the first st (same as 3ch), 1dc in each dc. 3ch and turn.
R2: 1dc in each dc, 2dc into the third ch. 5ch and turn.
R3: 1sc in the first st, *4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc in next st, *rep. until you have 3sts left, 4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc into the last st. 5ch and turn
R4: 1sc in next 4ch-sp, *4ch, 1sc in next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 4ch and 1sc into the third ch. 5ch and turn
R5: rep. R4
R6: 1sc in next 4ch-sp, *4ch, 1sc in next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 4ch, 1sc into the third ch, 2ch and 1dc into the third ch.
R7: 1dc into the first st, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, 3dc in each 4ch-sp, 1dc in the last 2ch-sp, 1dc into the third ch. 3ch and turn
R8: 1dc in each dc, 2dc into the third ch. 5ch and turn.
R9: 1dc into the first st (same as 3ch), 1dc in each dc. 1ch and turn.
R10: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc in next st. *rep until you have 3sts left, 4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc into the third ch, 2ch, 1dc into the third ch. 1ch and turn
R11: 1sc, into the first st, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch, 1dc into the last st.
R12: rep. R11, 5ch, and turn
R13: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch and 1dc into the last st. 3ch and turn.

R14: 1dc into the 2ch-sp, 3dc in each 4ch-sp, 1dc into the last 2ch-sp, 2dc into the third ch.
R15: rep. R1
R16:rep R2 (Last Row for Size L)
R17: Rep R3.( Last Row for Size XL)

Front Panel

Rejoin yarn into the marked st, ch3

R1:1dc into each dc to the end of the row. 3ch and turn
R2: rep. R1, 1ch, and turn
R3: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, skip the next 2sts, 1sc in next st. *rep until the end of the row. 5ch and turn
R4: 1sc into the next 4ch-sp, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep until the end of the row, 2ch and 1dc into the last st. 1ch and turn
R5: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row, 4ch, 1sc into the third ch. 5ch and turn
R6: Rep. R4
R7: 1dc into the 2ch-sp, 3dc in each 4ch-sp, 1dc into the last 2ch-sp, 1dc into the third ch. 3ch and turn
R8: rep R1
R9: Rep R1
R10 – R13: Rep. R3 – R6

The following 3 (4) rows work only the shoulder sts: 18 (18) sts.
*for size, XLthe last row for the shoulders will be a Mesh pattern which requires a multiple of 3 plus 1 sts, but you have a multiple of 3 (18sts). Finish the row by skipping 1 st instead of 2.

Left Back Panel

Rejoin yarn into the marked st and ch3
R1: 1dc in each dc, 2dc into the third ch.
R2: 1dc into the first st (same as 3ch), 1dc in each dc. 1ch and turn.
R3: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc in next st. *rep until you have 3sts left, 4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc into the third ch, 2ch, 1dc into the third ch. 1ch and turn

R4: 1sc, into the first st, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch, 1dc into the last st.
R5: rep. R4, 5ch, and turn
R6: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch and 1dc into the last st. 3ch and turn.
R7: 1dc into the 2ch-sp, 3dc in each 4ch-sp, 1dc into the last 2ch-sp, 2dc into the third ch.
R8:Rep R2
R9: Rep. R1
R10: 1sc in the first st, *4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc in next st, *rep. until you have 3sts left, 4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc into the last st. 5ch and turn
R11: 1sc in next 4ch-sp, *4ch, 1sc in next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 4ch and 1sc into the third ch. 5ch and turn
R12: rep R11
R13:1sc in next 4ch-sp, *4ch, 1sc in next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 4ch, 1sc into the third ch, 2ch and 1dc into the third ch.
R14: 1dc into the first st, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, 3dc in each 4ch-sp, 1dc in the last 2ch-sp, 1dc into the third ch. 3ch and turn
R15:Rep R1
R16:rep R2 (Last Row for Size L)
R17: Rep R3.( Last Row for Size XL)

Sizes 2XL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL

Right Back Panel
Start from where your yarn is.

R1:2dc into the first st (same as 3ch), 1dc in each dc. 3ch and turn.
R2: 1dc in each dc, 3dc into the third ch. 5ch and turn.
R3: 1sc in the first st, *4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc in next st, *rep. until you have 3sts left, 4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc into the last st. 5ch and turn

R4: 1sc in next 4ch-sp, *4ch, 1sc in next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 4ch and 1sc into the third ch. 5ch and turn
R5: rep. R4
R6: rep. R4
R7: 2dc into the first st, 3dc in each 4ch-sp, 1dc in the last 2ch-sp, 1dc into the third ch. 3ch and turn
R8: 1dc in each dc, 3dc into the third ch. 5ch and turn.
R9: 2dc into the first st (same as 3ch), 1dc in each dc. 1ch and turn.
R10: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc in next st. *rep until you have 2sts left, 4ch, skip 1st, 1sc into the third ch. 5ch and turn
R11: 1sc, into the first st, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch, 1dc into the last st. 1ch and turn
R12: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row, 4ch, 1sc into the third ch. 5ch and turn
R13: rep R11. 3ch and turn
R14: 1dc into the 2ch-sp, 3dc in each 4ch-sp, 1dc into the last 2ch-sp, 3dc into the third ch.
R15: rep. R1
R16: rep. R2
R17: rep. R3 (Last Row 2XL)
R18: rep. R4 (Last Row 3XL)
R19: Rep R4 (Last Row 4XL)
R20: Rep R4 (Last Row 5XL)

Front Panel

Rejoin yarn into the marked st, ch3

R1:1dc into each dc to the end of the row. 3ch and turn
R2: rep. R1, 1ch, and turn
R3: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, skip the next 2sts, 1sc in next st. *rep until the end of the row. 5ch and turn
R4: 1sc into the next 4ch-sp, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep until the end of the row, 2ch and 1dc into the last st. 1ch and turn

R5: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row, 4ch, 1sc into the third ch. 5ch and turn
R6: Rep. R4
R7: 1dc into the 2ch-sp, 3dc in each 4ch-sp, 1dc into the last 2ch-sp, 1dc into the third ch. 3ch and turn
R8: rep R1
R9: Rep R1
Rep. R3 – R9 until you have 4 rows left (counting the same number of rows as the right-back panel)
The following 4 rows work only the shoulder sts: 23 (24, 24, 25) sts.

Left Back Panel

Rejoin yarn into the marked st and ch3
R1: 1dc in each dc, 3dc into the third ch.
R2: 2dc into the first st (same as 3ch), 1dc in each dc. 1ch and turn.
R3: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc in next st. *rep until you have 3sts left, 4ch, skip next 2sts, 1sc into the third ch, 2ch, 1dc into the third ch. 1ch and turn.
R4:1sc, into the first st, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch, 1dc into the last st.
R5: rep R4
R6: Rep. R4
R7: 1dc into the 2ch-sp, 3dc in each 4ch-sp, 1dc into the last 2ch-sp, 3dc into the third ch.
R8: Rep. R2
R9: Rep R1, 1vh and turn
R10: 1sc into the first st, 4ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next, *4ch, skip 2sts, 1sc in next st. *rep until you have 3sts left, 4ch skip 2sts, 1sc into the third ch, 5ch and turn
R11: 1sc, into the first st, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2ch, 1dc into the last st. 1ch and turn
R12: 1sc into the first st, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the row, 4ch, 1sc into the third ch. 5ch and turn
R13: rep R11. 3ch and turn

R14: 2sc into the first st, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, 3dc in each 4ch-sp, 1dc into the last 2ch-sp, 3dc into the third ch
R15: Rep. R1
R16: Rep R2
R17: rep. R3 (Last Row 2XL)
R18: rep. R4 (Last Row 3XL)
R19: Rep R4 (Last Row 4XL)
R20: Rep R4 (Last Row 5XL)

Pride Blouse. Free Crochet Pattern

Now the entire trunk piece is done for all sizes.
To summarize the last section across the armholes, on the back panels, you should have 39 (40, 44), (52, 56) (63, 63, 66, 66) sts.
You should have the same number of sts as you start for the front panel.

BACK PANELS AND BOTTOM EDGE

Next, we will work on the back panels and bottom edge. Work this section in one single piece in rows.
When working across the side rows, work 1st if it is an sc side row, or 3 sts if it is a ch3 or dc side row.
Starting with the second row, use a 4.5 mm crochet hook

R1: 1sc in each st, 1ch, and turn
R2: 1ssblo in each st, 1ch and turn
R3 – *R12: Rep. R2
*work as many rows as you want, depending on how thick you want the edge.

ASSEMBLING

You can use a darn needle for assembling and stitching the shoulder sts and the overlapping back panels. In this design, I used the crochet hook with a lace joining method for the shoulders and slip stitches for the overlapping back panels.

The last row of the shoulders can be either a double crochet row or a Mesh stitch row. Depending on your size, you will find both situations below.

Joining shoulders double crochet rows
Step 1:Rejoin yarn into the first stitch of the right side.
Step 2: 3ch, 1sc into the first st of the left side;
Step 3: 2ch, skip 1st from the right side, 1sc into the next st;
Step 4: 2ch, skip 1st from the left side, 1sc into the next st.

Rep. Step 3 and Step 4 until you finish the shoulder sts.

Joining shoulders mesh stitch rows rows
Step 1:Rejoin yarn into the first stitch of the right side.
Step 2: 3ch, 1sc into the first st of the left side;
Step 3: 2ch, skip 1sc into the first 4ch-sp of the right side
Step 4: 2ch, 1sc into the first 4ch-sp of the left side
Step 5: 3ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp of the right side
Step 6: 2ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp of the left side.
Rep. Step 5 and Step 6 until you finish the shoulder sts.

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

After finishing the first shoulder, you continue joining the overlapping front panels using slip stitches or single crochet sts. After that, you can continue with the second shoulder.
If the back panels overlap with the shoulders, insert the hook through the back panels when joining the shoulders section.

SLEEVES

Work the sleeves into the armhole. Start by joining the yarn at the armpit.
Work the sleeves in the round and turn after each round.
The first row is a setup row; work the first row in single crochet sts on the right side. The pattern should be:
3sc into a dc or 3ch side row
1sc if the side row is an sc stitch.
Use this pattern as guidance, but considering your tension,
Adjust the pattern so at the end of the row to have a multiple of 3sts.

*R1: 1ch, 1sc in each st around, ss into the first sc and turn
*consider the indications above
R2: 3ch, dc2tog, 1dc in each st until you have 2sts left, dc2tog, ss into the third ch and turn.
R3: rep. R2.
R4: rep R2
R5: 1ch, *1sc, 4ch, skip 2sts. *rep. until the end of the row. ss into the first sc and turn
R6: 5ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp, *4ch, 1sc into the next 4ch-sp. Close the round with 2ch and ss into the third ch. turn
R7: 1ch, 1sc into the first st, 4ch, *1sc into the next 4ch-sp, 4ch. * rep. until the end of the row. Ss into the first sc. turn
R8: rep. R5
R9: 3ch, skip 2ch-sp, 3dc into each of the following 4ch-sp, skip the last 2ch-sp, ss into the third ch.

Rep. R2 – R9 until you have 37 (36, 36) (36, 35) (35, 36, 36, 37) rows or until you have the desired length

Sleeves edge

R1: 1sc in each st. 1ch and turn
R2: 1ch, 1ssblo in each st, ss into the first 1ch. Turn
R3 – R12: rep. R2

Neckline edge

Rejoin yarn in one of the sts across the neckline.
Work into the side row 3dc if it’s a dc or ch3 row
Work 1st if it’s an sc side row
Work 3sts into each 4ch-sp.

R1: 1sc in each st around; ss into the first sc and turn
R2 (optional): 1ch, 1ssblo in each st around; ss into the first ch.

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

And you are done! I hope you like this pattern! The Pride Blouse is perfect for those beach walks at sunset, or at least this is how I picture myself wearing it.

The Grey Dune Top was born from my desire of knitting more. I had some yarn left from some projects and even if it wasn’t designed for clothes, I said I will try.

I was experimenting with some lace knitting patterns and  I was so happy with the result that of course, I had to show it to the world 😁 .  What happened, was that you liked this top so much and asked for a pattern and I can’t be happier to share with you how to knit this super simple Grey Dune Top. 

I don’t know what to say more about it, so I think I will jump into the process πŸ˜…

MATERIALS

β€’ Yarn: Medium Weight Yarn (Size 4)

β€’ Knitting Needles
o 8 mm needles (for ribbing)
o 10 mm needles (for the rest of the top)
you can use circular or straight needles, but for the neckline ribbing you will need 60cm circular needles or double-pointed needles to work in the round
β€’ yarn needle for weaving in ends
β€’ Stitch markers
β€’ Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Grey Dune Top has a classic drop-shoulder design with an oversized fit with a positive ease of about 23 cm around the bust circumference.

The top has a panels construction (back, panel, and front panel).

After assembling front and back panels shoulders and sides up to the armhole we will pick up the sts around the neckline and work the ribbing.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Grey Dune Top Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with an 86 cm Bust circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL); the US sizes 0/2 (4/6, 8/10, 12/14) (14/16W, 18/20W, 22/24W, 26/28W, 30/32W)
All the measurements use as reference Standard Body Measurements by ASTM International.

Neckline a: 20.5 cm (21, 21.5, 22.5) (23, 23.5, 24.5, 25.5, 26.5)
Bust width b: 64 cm (67, 70, 73) (77, 82, 87, 92, 97)
Armhole depth c: 17 cm (18, 18.5, 20) (21, 21.5, 22.5, 23.5, 25)
Length d: 45 cm (45, 45, 45) (46, 46, 47, 47, 47)

How much yarn do you need?

I used for my sample Recycled cotton yarn, Ekos by Katia. Each ball has 50 grams and 55 meters.

For each size you will need:
7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10, 11) 0r 370 m (380, 400, 420) (450, 480, 520, 550, 580)

ABBREVIATIONS

k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit two together
yo – yarn over
s – slip purlwise
R – rows
* – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 10 mm needles in mesh stitch pattern
9.5 sts = 10 cm
15.5 rows = 10cm

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The entire top is worked in a mesh stitch pattern with a knit 1, purl 1 ribbing.
The ribbing is worked with smaller size needles.

 

PATTERN NOTES

The stitch pattern requires a multiple of 2sts.
always slip purlwise the first st in a row and finish the row with a knit stitch.
an adjust the width by casting on as many sts as you want to get to the desired width.
You can make the top longer by working more rows in length.
Use any method you like for casting on and binding off.

INSTRUCTIONS

FRONT PANEL
Use 8mm needles
Cast on 62 (64, 68, 70) (74, 78, 84, 88, 94)
R1: k1, p1 until the end of the row.
R2-R7: rep. R1
Change to 10 mm needles
R8(ws): p all sts.
R9(rs): s, k1, *yo, k2tog. * Rep. until you have 2sts left, k2.
R10(ws): p all sts
R11(rs): s1, k1, *k2tog, yo. *Rep. until you have 2sts left, k2.

Rep. R8 – R11 until you have in total:
60 (60, 60, 60) (64, 64, 64, 64, 64) rows.
Next, we will work 4 more rows only into the shoulder sts.
Adjust the neckline width as desired or follow the numbers below:
Left Shoulder
Rep. the same st pattern, but work only the first 20 (21, 22, 23) (25, 26, 29, 30, 33) sts for 4 rows.
Bind off.
Right Shoulder
Bind off neckline sts: 22 (22, 24, 24) (24, 26, 26, 28, 28) sts. You should have left the same number of sts as for the left shoulder.
Rep. the stitch pattern for the next 4 rows. Bind off.

BACK PANEL
Rep. the same pattern as for the Front panel without shoulders section. Work a simple rectangle of 64 (64, 64, 64) (68, 68, 68, 68, 68) rows

ASSEMBLING FRONT AND BACK PANEL

Step 1: lay both pieces flat, facing the right side, shoulder next to shoulder, and stitch the shoulder sts.
Step 2: use stitch markers to mark the armholes: 26 (28, 29, 31) (33, 33, 35, 36, 39); stitch the side up to the armholes.

 

NECKLINE RIBBING
Using 8 mm circular needles (60 cm) or DPN needles, pick up the neckline sts.
Work in the round.
R1: k1, p1 until the end of the row.
R2-R7: rep. R1

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.