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Bykaterina

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And the Warm Me Up Sweater is finally here!!! 

I had in mind this sweater since last year when I designed the crochet version, Rainy Cloud Jumper. I visualized first this design as knitted, but I don’t know why I went for crochet first. Or I do know…I am still way more confident in crochet than knitting.

But, it’s ok! Better later than never, right? 

I started this sweater back in September when Lang Yarns send me some samples of  LAng Neon.  I fell in love at first touch, and I immediately sent them the idea of this Warm Me Up Sweater and asked them if they will like to sponsor the project. And they did! (took me a while to realize that this is how things work…You want something, ask for it, don’t wait to receive because you will wait like forever πŸ˜…)

Anyway, I know it took me a while because I am not such a faster knitter as a crocheter and had some projects in the meantime, but I am super in love with this sweater. As a crocheter, most of the time, I feel so good after finishing a knitting project, you can’t imagine.

But enough talking, let’s dig into the making process and see how I made this sweater.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

MATERIALS

  • Yarn
    • Category 5 ( Bulky Weight Yarn)
  • Needles
    • 8 mm circular needles (40 cm cable for the sleeve and 80 to 100 or 120 cm cable for the sweater)
  • You will need a yarn needle for wave in ends
  • Scissors
  • 8 stitch markers

 

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

This pattern requires techniques like knitting and purl stitch, working in the round, and increase.

After working the collar, turn the work, so when it’s folded, to show the work’s right side.

The Warm Me Up Sweater is worked top-down, seamless, and has positive ease around the bust circumference of about 14 cm.

The pattern is available in 8 sizes, from Small to 5 X Large, and wrote in US terms.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

Final measurements of the Warm Me Up Sweater are listed below.

Neck Line a: 41 cm (45, 50, 53, 55, 60, 65, 68)

Yoke depth b: 19 cm (20, 22, 24, 26, 27, 29, 31)

Bust Width c: 51 cm (56, 61, 66, 71, 76, 81, 86)

Sleeve Length d: 34 cm (34, 36, 36, 37, 37, 38, 38)

Sleeve circ. e: 41 cm (43, 46, 50, 55, 58, 62, 65)

Length f: 48 cm (49, 52, 54, 56, 57, 59, 61)

These measurements will fit:

To Fit cm  

S

 

M

 

L

 

XL

 

2XL

 

3XL

 

4XL

 

5XL

Bust 86 96 106 116 126 136 146 156

How much yarn do you need?

For the Warm Me Up Sweater, I used Lang Neon from Lang Yarns.

Each ball has 50 grams and approximately 85 meters.

Below you can find how much yarn you will need for each size.

For each size, you will approximate need:

Lang Neon S M L XL XXL 3XL 4XL 5XL
50 g/85 m
Yellow 11 12 13 15 16 17 19 21

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

For the entire sweater, except for the bottom hem and cuffs, a simple pattern is used.

R1: *k1, p1. Repeat to the end of the round

R1: k all stitches

For the bottom hem and cuff, is use k1, p1 ribbing.

Twisted knit st for ribbing: insert the needle in the back of the st instead of the front.

 ABBREVIATIONS

  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • Inc – increase (I used the YO method, but you can use any inc method you want)
  • Dec – k2tog: knit 2 stitches together
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • CO – cast on
  • BO – bind off
  • R – rounds
  • ** – repeated section.

TENSION (GAUGE)

Using an 8 mm needle in the pattern used for the sweater

  • 13.5 sts and 21 rounds = 10 cm

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

NOTES

Work the sweater in the round.

After CO, join the ends: slip the 1st st on the left needle, on the right needle. Take the second st on the right needle and slip it over. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.

After finishing the collar, turn in the work. It will be like a German short row turn.

Flip your work, bring the working yarn in front, slip the first st on the left needle and get the string from front to back around the right needle.

The yoke is a rectangle yoke, increasing along four raglan lines. Each raglan line has 1 st, and make the increase before and after that st.

This pattern uses the YO increase. YO before the raglan line and after the raglan line. Use st markers.

Slip the wrap from the left needle to the right needle purlwise to work the YO on the next round. Then, slip the stitch on the right needle and knit or purl, depending on the pattern.

All the increases on the yoke are made only on the knitting round. 

Always the raglan lines sts are knitted.

When adding the armpit sts, wrap yarn on the left needle and k the wrap. Transfer the sleeve sts on a string or cable.

On the k1, p1 rounds, one will end up with a k st before the marker, and the next one will end up with a pst before the st marker.

When working the sleeve, pick up the armpit sts after transfer the sleeve sts on needles: insert the right needle through the st and pull out a loop. Repeat for all armpit sts.

The numbers for M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL are written between brackets.

COLLAR

CO 108 (120, 136, 148, 156, 168, 180, 188)

Join the ends.

R1: *k1, p1. *repeat to the end of the round

R2: k all stitches.

R2 – R52 Rep R1 and R2

*work more rounds if you want a wider collar.

Turn your work. See the Pattern Notes

YOKE

R1: *k1, p1. Rep until the end of the round

R2: K next 35 (39, 43, 47, 49, 53, 57, 59) sts (back), Inc, place an st marker, k next st, place an st marker, inc, k next 17 (19, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33) sts, inc, place an st marker, k next st, place an st marker inc, k next 35 (39, 43, 47, 49, 53, 57, 59) sts (front), Inc, place an st marker, k next st, place an st marker, inc, k next 17 (19, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33) sts, inc, place an st marker, k next st, place an st marker, inc.

R2: *k1, p1 *repeat before next st marker, slip the st marker, k the raglan line, slip the stitch marker. Rep. on all sides.

R3: k all sts to the next st marker, Inc, slip the st marker, k next st, slip the st marker, inc. Repeat on all sides.

Rep. R2 and R3 until having in total for the YOKE 30 (32, 34, 38, 40, 42, 44, 48 ) rounds, or until the bust circumference has desired measurements.

After finishing the YOKE, you will have 137 (151, 169, 185, 195, 209, 223, 235) sts.

TORSO (BODY)

R1: Separate the sleeves

K1, p1 round.

k1, p1 until the next st marker, remove the st marker and work the raglan line st, transfer the sleeve sts to another string or cable, add 5 (5, 5, 5, 9, 9, 9, 9) armpit sts (see the Pattern Notes) skip the sts for the sleeve, work in the same pattern the front side sts, starting with the raglan line st, proceed the same with the second sleeve and finish the round in the same st pattern.

R2: k all sts.

R3: *k1, p1 until the end of the round.

R4 – R59 (59, 63, 63, 65, 65 , 67, 67): Rep R2 and R3

Continue with the Ribbing (see the Ribbing section)

Bind off

SLEEVES

Use a 40 cm cable needle, socks needle, or use the loop method.

Transfer the sts on the needles.

R1: pick up armpit sts (see the Pattern Notes),  place an st marker (this will be the beginning of the round) *k1, p1 to the end of the round.

R2: k all sts.

R3: k1, p1. * rep until the end of the round.

R4 – R55 ( 55, 59, 58, 61, 61, 63, 63): rep R2 and R3

Next row: *k next 3 sts, k2tog. Repeat until the end of the round.

Next round: *k1, p1. *rep until the end of the round.

Next 2 rounds: rep previous 2 rounds.

Add Ribbing

Bind off

RIBBING

Add the ribbing right after finishing the BODY and the SLEEVES.

R1: *k1, p1. *rep until the end of the round.

R2 to R10: rep R1

For the sleeves, if after decrease you don’t have an even number of sts, at the end of R1, purl the last 2 sts together.

Bind off

TO FINISH

Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

And it’s all done! A video tutorial will be available soon, so stay close in case you need some visual help with this.

 

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

 

 

 

 

 

This Snowflakes Sweater wasn’t supposed to be the first design published in 2021. All my projects that are still in progress (and were in progress when I started to work on this one) are in DK weight yarn or knitted ones and I needed something with faster results. Not because I was in a hurry or something, but because I was feeling that I am working a lot, but nothing is getting done.

Anyway… I think it was my mood back then….

The pattern for the yoke was actually a failed attempt back in 2018 when I didn’t know that much about crochet stitches, or yoke sweaters, but I saw a dress designed by Vanessa Montoro and I fell in love.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

The yoke is the one that inspired me with the name. These days I was waiting like a child to see some snowflakes and I was checking the weather podcast hourly. Well, the snow was actually a rain, but I decided to name my sweater Snowflakes just to cheer me up a bit.

But enough talking, because it’s a lot to be read with this sweater pattern πŸ˜€

MATERIALS

  • Yarn
    • Category 4 ( Medium Weight Yarn)
  • Crochet Hook
  • You will need a yarn needle for wave in ends
  • Scissors
  • 4 stitch markers

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

This pattern requires techniques as single crochet, double crochet, single crochet in the back loop only and working in rounds.

The yoke, bottom of the sweater and the end of the sleeves are worked in a combination of stitches like, 3 double crochet cross stitch, shell stitch, or 5 double crochet worked together.

The Snowflakes Sweater is worked top-down, seamless and has a positive ease around bust circumference of about 14 cm.

The pattern is available in 8 sizes, from Small to 5 X Large and is written in US terms

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

Final measurements of the Snowflakes Sweater are listed below.

Neck Line a: 27 cm (27, 27, 27, 27, 27, 27, 27)

Yoke depth b: 18 cm (19, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27)

Bust Width c: 50 cm (55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85)

Sleeve Length d: 37 cm (37, 39, 39, 40, 40, 41, 41)

Sleeve circ. e: 35 cm (35, 40, 45, 50, 50, 55, 60)

Length f: 52 cm (53, 55, 56, 57, 58, 60, 61)

This measurements will fit:

To Fit cm  

S

 

M

 

L

 

XL

 

2XL

 

3XL

 

4XL

 

5XL

Bust 86 96 106 116 126 136 146 156

 

How much yarn do you need?

For the Snowflakes Sweater I used Katia Merino Aran. You can also use 2 strand of Katia Basic Merino (or other dc weight yarn)

Each ball has 100 grams and approximate 155 meters.

Below are the colors I used and how much yarn you will need for each size.

For each size you will approximate need:

Katia Merino Aran S M L XL XXL 3XL 4XL 5XL
100 g/155 m
Light Grey 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Off White 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
lila 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Light purple 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Dark Grey 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Black 5 6 6 7 8 8 9 10

 

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

For the yoke, sleeves and the bottom of the sweater, we will use a combination of stitches. It’s a 5 rows combination and these 5 rows will be repeated 2 or 3 times along the yoke, depending on the size, and ones on sleeves and body.

Below is represented a stitch chart with these 5 rows:

1st Row: single crochet row. This will be an increase round.

2nd Row: ch 3, *skip next st, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1dc in the skipped stitch, going in front of the previous 2 dc. *Rep. to the end of the row.

For this particular pattern, the round will end with a 2dc cross stitch and then join with a slip stitch with 3rd st of the starting chain.

2dc cross stitch: *skip 1 sts, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the skipped st.

3rd Row: all round double crochet. This will be an increase round.

4th Row: *1sc, skip the next 2 sts, 5dc in next st (5dc shell st), skip next 2 sts. *rep. to the end of the row.

5th Row: ch3, dc2tog in the next 2 sts, ch2, 1sc in next st, ch2, *dc5tog in next 5 sts, ch 2, 1 sc in next st, ch2. Rep to the end of the row. Finish the row with dc2tog and join with a sl st with first dc2tog.

ABBREVIATIONS

  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Ss – slip stitch
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • Dc2tog (dc5tog) – *yarn over, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over and pull it through first 2 loop on the hook. *rep 2 (or 5 times for dc5tog) times, yarn over an pull the yarn through all loops on your hook
  • Inc – increase: 2sc or 2dc in the same st
  • R – rounds
  • ** – repeated section.

TENSION (GAUGE)

  • 12 dc = 10 cm
  • 5 rows = 10 cm
  • 5 rows in the repeated st pattern = 8 cm

NOTES

Each round is joined with a ss.

When changing color, ss to finish the round with the next color to be use.

Ch3 st the beginning of the round counts as 1st dc unless otherwise is indicated.

Ch1 at the beginning of a sc round or if the round start with sc, doesn’t count as 1st sc.

On the yoke the increases are made on sc and dc rounds.

The yoke pattern is written by grouping sizes that have similar increase pattern.

YOKE (SIZE S, M, L, XL)

Using Black

Start: ch 66 and join the ends to make a circle

R1: ch1, 1sc in same st, 1 sc in next 9 sts, 2sc in next st, *1sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next st. * Rep. until the end of the round. (72 sts). Change to light grey.

R2: ch3, *skip the next st, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1dc in the skipped st, crossing over the previous 2dc. *Rep until the end of the round. Finish the round with: skip next st, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the skipped st, crossing over the previous dc. Hon with 3rd st of the starting ch. Change to Off White.

R3: rep. R2. Change to dark grey.

R4: ch3, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next st, 2dc in next st. * Rep. until the end of the round. Change with Lila. (108 sts)

R5: *1sc, skip the next 2 sts, 5dc in next st, skip the next 2 sts. *Rep. until the end of the round. Change with Light purple.

R6: ch3, dc2tog, ch2, 1sc in next st, ch2, *dc5tog, ch2, 1sc in next st, ch2. * Repeat until the end of the round. Finish the round with dc2tog and join with the dc2tog at the beginning of the round. Change to black.

R7: *1sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st. *Rep.until the end of the round. Change to Light Grey (144 sts)

R8: Rep.R2. Change to Off White.

R9: Rep R2. Change to Dark Grey.

R10: ch3, 1dc in next 6 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st. *Rep. until the end of the round. Change to Lila (162 sts)

R11: Rep. R5. Change to Light Purple.

R12: Rep. R6. Change to Black.

R13: *1sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next st. *Repeat to the end of the round. (180 sts)

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Only for size S

R14: 1dc in each stitch to the end of the round.

The Yoke is done and you can move to the Torso (Body) Section.

 

Sizes M, L, XL

Continue working in Black

 R14: ch2 (does not count as first dc; work the first dc into the 1st st) *1dc in next 14 sts, 2dc in next st. *Rep. until the end of the round. (192 sts)

Only for size M

R15: 1dc in each st around.

The Yoke is done and you can move to the Torso (Body) Section.

Sizes L, XL

R15: Ch2, *1dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st. *Rep. until the end of the row (216 sts)

Only for size L

R16: 1dc in each st around.

The Yoke is done and you can move to the Torso (Body) Section.

Size XL

R16: ch2, *1dc in next 8 sts, 2dc in next st. *Rep. until the end of the round. (240 sts).

R16: 1dc in each st around.

The Yoke is done and you can move to the Torso (Body) Section.

YOKE (SIZES XXL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

Start: ch 66 and join the ends to make a circle

R1: ch1, 1sc in same st, 1 sc in next 9 sts, 2sc in next st, *1sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next st. * Rep. until the end of the round. (72 sts). Change to light grey.

R2: ch3, *skip the next st, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1dc in the skipped st, crossing over the previous 2dc. *Rep until the end of the round. Finish the round with: skip next st, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the skipped st, crossing over the previous dc. Hon with 3rd st of the starting ch. Change to Off White.

R3: rep. R2. Change to dark grey.

R4: ch3, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next st, 2dc in next st. * Rep. until the end of the round. Change with Lila. (108 sts)

R5: *1sc, skip the next 2 sts, 5dc in next st, skip the next 2 sts. *Rep. until the end of the round. Change with Light purple.

R6: ch3, dc2tog, ch2, 1sc in next st, ch2, *dc5tog, ch2, 1sc in next st, ch2. * Repeat until the end of the round. Finish the round with dc2tog and join with the dc2tog at the beginning of the round. Change to black.

R7: *1sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st. *Rep.until the end of the round. Change to Light Grey (144 sts)

R8: Rep.R2. Change to Off White.

R9: Rep R2. Change to Dark Grey.

R10:ch3, 1dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st. *Rep. until the end of the round. Change to Lila (180 sts)

R11: Rep. R5. Change to Light Purple.

R12: Rep. R6. Change to Black.

R13: *1sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st. *Repeat to the end of the round. (216 sts). Change to light grey

R14: Rep.R2. Change to Off White.

R15: Rep R2. Change to Dark Grey.

R16: ch3, 1dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st. *Rep. until the end of the round. Change to Lila (252 sts)

R17: Rep. R5. Change to Light Purple.

R18: Rep. R6. Change to Black.

R19: *1sc in next 20 sts, 2sc in next st. Repeat to the end of the round. (264 sts)

R19 was the last round of the YOKE for size XXL. Move to the Torso (Body) Section.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Sizes 3XL, 4XL, 5XL

Work just in black

R20: ch2, *1dc in next 21 (10, 10) sts, 2dc in next . *Rep until the end of the round. (276 (288, 288) sts)

The Yoke is done for size 3XL and you can move to the Torso (Body) Section.

R21: ch2, *1dc in next 23 (7) sts, 2dc in next . *Rep until the end of the round. (300 (324) sts)

R22: ch 2, 1 dc in each st around.

The Yoke is done for size 4XL and you can move to the Torso (Body) Section.

Size 5XL R23: Rep. R22

The Yoke is done for size 5XL and you can move to the Torso (Body) Section.

 TORSO (BODY)

Using stitch markers, mark the 4 sections of the sweater: front. Back, and 2 sleeves.

The first st of the round will count as the first st of the back.

Mark the sections as following. The numbers for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL are written between brackets.

Back and front: 54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 98, 102)

Sleeves: 36 (36, 42, 48, 54, 54, 60, 66)

 Using color Black

R1 Separating round: ch2, 1dc in next 54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 98, 102) sts, ch6, skip 36 (36, 42, 48, 54, 54, 60, 66) sts, 1dc in next 54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 98, 102) sts, ch 6 and join with 1st dc.

R2: ch2, 1 dc in each st around.

R3 to R13: rep. R2. Change to Light Grey.

R14: Rep R2 YOKE. Change to off white.

R15: Rep. R2 YOKE. Change to Dark Grey.

R16: Rep R2. Change to Lila.

R17: Rep. R5 YOKE. Change to Light Purple

R18: Rep R6 YOKE. Change to Black

R19: 1sc in each st around.

The TORSO is finished with a bottom hem ribbing. Go to the RIBBING section.

SLEEVES

Before start working the sleeves, pay attention that the pattern at the end require a multiple of 6 sts.

When working the sleeves, the sts in corners, before and after the 6 sts armpit chain will be worked together with the next sts, to avoid increasing the total number of sts.

Using color Black

Rejoin yarn in one of the armpit sts.

R1: ch2, 1dc in each st around (pay attention to the note above).

R2 to R15 (15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18, 18): Rep. R1. Chane to light Grey

Next, rep. the last 6 rounds of the BODY section.

 RIBBING

Add the ribbing on bottom hem and cuffs.

The ribbing is worked right after finishing the last row in the same color as the last row.

Start: ch 11 and turn

R1: Starting with the second st, 1sc in each of the next 10 sts, 1ss in the next 2 sts of the Body/sleeves, turn

R2: 1scblo in each of the next 10 sts, ch 1 and turn.

R3: 1scblo in each of the next 10 sts, 1ss in the next 2 sts of the Body/sleeves, turn.

Repeat R2 and R3 until you finish the entire circumference of the Body/sleeves.

Join the ends using slip stitches.

TO FINSIH

Weave in all ends and block to measurements.

And done! I really hope you like this one and can’t wait to see your color combinations.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

Here you can find a step by step video tutorial, for size Small to guide you through the making process.

 

These Beaded Christmas Baubles make me so happy and I am even happier that I can share the pattern with you and be able to bring a bit of my happiness in your homes as well if you decide to make them.

These Baubles are perfect if you want to give a handmade touch to you Christmas Tree or if you want to gift them to someone. 

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here. 

This is my second Christmas Baubles pattern. I designed another ones two years ago and they are also super cute.

(click the image if you want to see the pattern)

If you are scared about working with beads, I will confess that it was my first time too and I will give you a tip:

Don’t worry if you are missing a beaded stitch. This won’t affect the final result and the bauble will be beautiful with or without one or even more beads.

And if it’s something that is not clear enough from the pattern, I made a step by step video tutorial to help you out πŸ™‚

https://youtu.be/XMQSpGNxeBE

Ok, now let’s see what we will need and how to make these cute Beaded Christmas Baubles

MATERIALS

  • Yarn
    • 8/4 cotton yarn (fingering weight cotton)
  • Crochet hook
    • 2.5 mm
  • 152 3 mm beads
  • 6 cm Christmas bauble (or you can use stuffing fiber)
  • Clear nail polish (optional)
  • 1 stitch marker

ABOUT DESIGN

This Beaded Christmas Baubles pattern uses techniques as single crochet, working in continuous rounds (in spiral) increase and decrease.

Starting with round 2, alternate 1 round with beads one round without beads.

Along a beaded round, alternate 1 stitch with bead and 1 stitch without

You have to keep following the increase and decrease pattern.

After completing half of the bauble cover, put the Christmas Bauble in and work over it.

If you are using stuffing fiber, stuff the bauble before close it.

If you are using bigger Christmas Baubles or different weight yarn, you have to work on the increase part as many rows as you need, until your circle has the same diameter as the bauble you want to use.

MEASUREMENTS

6 cm diameter

Now that you have this ball of fabric yarn, you can start to crochet.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here. 

ABBREVIATIONS

  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Inc – increase: 2 sc in the same stitch
  • Dec – decrease: 2 sc worked together
  • R| – round
  • ** – Repeated section

SPECIAL STITCHES

When working a beaded stitch, this will have to be made from back to front, so the bead to be on the right side of your work.

Beaded Single Crochet (Bsc)

Insert the hook into the next stitch, from back to front, with the hook under the working yarn, place the bead closer to your work, yarn over and pull out a loop from front to back, twisting the crochet hook so the loop stays on it, yarn over and finish the single crochet.

TENSION

  • After 7 rounds (not counting the first 6 sc made inside the magic ring) the circle measures 6 cm

 

NOTES

These Christmas Baubles are work in spiral, in continuous round. You don’t have to join after each round.

Use a stitch marker to mark the last stitch.

The pattern is written without mentioning that is a beaded stitch or not. You will have to alternate on a beaded round, 1 stitch with bead and one without.

INSTRUCTIONS

Preparing the beads

Use clear nail polish to wipe the yarn end. Twist the yarn a bit and let it dry until is hard.

Put all the beads on the yarn, one by one.

Start|: make a magic ring, ch 1 and 6 sc inside the ring.

R1|: 1 inc in each sts ( 1 Inc x 6 times) – 12 sts

R2|Beaded round: *1 Inc, 1 sc in the next st. * repeat 6 times to the end of the round (18 sts)

R3|: *1 Inc, 1 sc in the next 2 sts. *Repeat 6 times to the end of the round. (24 sts)

R4| Beaded Round: *1 Inc, 1 sc in next 3 sts. *Repeat 6 times to the end of the round. (30 sts)

R5|: *1 inc, 1 sc in next 4 sts. *Repeat 6 times to the end of the round. (36 sts)

R6| Beaded round: *1 Inc, 1 sc in next 5 sts. * Repeat 6 times to the end of the round. (42 sts)

R7|: 1 Inc, 1 sc in next 6 sts. *Repeat 6 times to the end of the round. (48 sts)

R8 – R12|: 1 sc in each st to the end of the rouns.

*keep alternate 1 beaded round with 1 round without beads. R12 will be a beaded round.

R13|: *1 dec, 1 sc in next 6 sts. * Repeat 6 times to the end of the round. (42 sts)

R14|Beaded Round: *1 dec, 1 sc in next 5 sts. *Repeat 6 times to the end of the round. (36 sts)

Insert the bauble and continue working over the bauble.

R15| *1 dec, 1 sc in next 4 sts. *repeat 6 times to the end of the round.(30 sts)

R16| Beaded Round: *1 dec, 1 sc in next 3 sts. * Repeat to the end of the round. (24 sts)

R17|: *1 dec, 1 sc in next 2 sts. *Repeat to the end of the round (18 sts)

R18| Beaded Round: *1 dec, 1 sc in next st. *Repeat to the end of the round (12 sts)

Fasten off

*you can still try to make another round, 1 dec X 6 times, but it might be difficult to work the sts if you are working over a Christmas Bauble. If you are using Stuffing fiber, you have to work this round to close the bauble.

TO FINISH

Hide the end and tie a nice ribbon.

And done!

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here. T