Shining Pearl Jumper. Crochet Pattern
I am so happy to share this revised version of the Shining Pearl Jumper with you.
I first designed this sweater for Simply Crochet Magazine a few years back, and after I published it as an individual pattern, there were so many requests for a video tutorial. And I am glad that I finally managed to make one.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.
For the original sample, I used DK weight merino yarn, and I knew that if I make another one, I would have to try using a fingering weight but the same crochet hook size. This is because, in DK Weight, it ended up being too heavy.
After finishing the second sample, following the same pattern, I noticed a few mistakes, and I had to make a revised version.

Here are the changes that I made in the pattern:
The starting chain: the original pattern had a smaller starting chain for size medium and large than for size small; this was because I decided to start the size medium and large with only one pattern repeat for the sleeves, to have, in the end, less wide sleeves; I adjusted that in the revised pattern and the first size, start with the same number of sts.
Sizing: for the second sample, I used as a reference the exact standard measurements, but because of the stitch pattern, the positive ease is different. I decided to name the sizes as Size 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 instead of S, M, L, XL, XXL.; you will have to look at the measurements and choose the size you will want to make:
Sleeves: In the original sample, I went for wide 3/4 sleeves; in the second sample, I made the sleeves complete length and decided to taper them; the 3/4 wide sleeve is still possible to make if you prefer so.
In the second pattern, the PDF version, I also added stitch charts for the entire YOKE section for all the sizes. Also made charts for the separating round, making it more visual how to work the armpit sts.
That being said, let me share with you how to make the Shining Pearl Jumper 🙂

©This pattern is an original pattern By Katerina. Please do not copy and DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it as your own. You can sell the pieces you made following this pattern, but please use @ByKaterinaDesigns as a source of the design, in your listing or on social media.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.
MATERIALS
• Yarn: Fingering weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 4.5 mm crochet hook
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
The garment is made top-down in circular rounds only on the right side. First is made the yoke, and then divided for the sleeves and body.
The sweater alternates Front Post Double Crochet and Back Post Double Crochet in a diamond pattern.
Ultimately, an edging is worked around the neckline, sleeves, and bottom. The edge is worked in a front post and back post double crochet ribbing.
The pattern is available in 6 sizes and is written in US terms. This pattern uses as reference standard body measurements, but because of the stitch pattern, the positive ease is not the same on all sizes. That is why the pattern is written for sizes from 1 to 6. Use the measurements to choose the size that suits you.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Shining Pearl Pattern is available in 6 sizes. The model is 165 cm tall, with an 86 bust circumference, and wears size 2.
All the numbers in this pattern are written as Size 1 (Size 2, Size 3, Size 4, Size 5, Size 6)
Neckline circ. a: 52 cm (52, 54, 63, 63, 63)
Yoke Depth b: 13 cm (15, 16, 18, 19, 22)
Bust circ. c: 94 cm (104, 116, 126, 138, 152)
Sleeve circ. d: 35 cm (42, 47, 47, 53, 59)
Sleeve length e: 54 cm (56, 57, 59, 60, 63)
Length f: 44 cm (46, 47, 49, 50, 53)
How much yarn do you need?
I made 2 samples for this design: one in DK weight yarn and one in Fingering Weight Yarn. The yardage below is for both yarn weights, considering the measurements above.
For the Fingering weight version, I used Cascade 220 by Cascade Yarns. Yarn composition: 100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 1 hank has 50g and 250 meters.
I used Rico Essentials Merino DK by Rico Design for the DK weight version. Yarn composition is 100% Virgin Wool; 1 ball has 50g and 120 meters.
For each size, you will need approximately: 1480 (1750, 2070, 2170, 2490, 2850) meters
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch – chain
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post dc
bpdc – back post dc
Slst – slip stitch
Inc – increase: 1dc, 2ch, 1dc in the same st/2ch-sp;
IncD – double increase: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc in the same 2ch-sp;
St(s) – stitch(es)
TENSION
Using a 4.5 mm crochet hook in the main stitch pattern
17 sts = 10 cm
13 rows = 10 cm

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.
STITCH PATTERN
The main stitch pattern of the Shining Pearl Jumper is a combination of front post double crochet and back post double crochet. The stitch pattern requires a multiple of 10 sts in the round and per section (front, back, sleeves) a multiple of 10+1 sts.
PATTERN NOTES
– Work the sweater in the round only on the right side;
– 2ch at the beginning of the round counts as the first bpdc;
– close each round with an slst into the second ch;
– if you want the neckline to be wider, you can add to the foundation ch a multiple of 8 sts; for every 8 sts that you add, start the yoke one round below; for example, for size 3, the yoke starts at round 2 because I added 8 more sts to the neckline;
– when separating the yoke into sleeves and body, the number of sts that you add at the armpit has to be according to the stitch pattern on the separating round; for example, if on the separating round, you have 5fpdc before the raglan line, means that you will have 5fpdc after the raglan line; so you will need in between, to continue the pattern either 5bpdc or 5bpdc, 5fpdc, and 5bpdc; means that you will need to add 5 or 15 armpit sts.
– you can work the neckline ribbing at the beginning; I worked it at the end because I used a different color yarn; in the pattern below the ribbing section pattern is written separately at the end of the instructions section;
INSTRUCTIONS
Numbers for sizes 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 are written between brackets. If not, the pattern applies to all sizes.
Start: ch 88 (88, 92, 108, 108, 108)
*Close with an slst to make a circle.
*there will be a foundation round in dc; if your ch is twisting, you can work first the row in dc and then slip stitch to close the round; you can close the gap when weaving in the end
FOUNDATION ROUND
2ch (counts as the first dc) 1dc in each st; close the round with slst into the second ch;
YOKE
If you make Size 3, start the YOKE with round 2;
R1: 2ch (9fpdc, 1bpdc) x 1 (1, -, 1, 1, 1) time, 1Inc, 1bpdc, (9fpdc, 1bpdc) x 1 (1, -, 1, 1, 1) time, 1Inc, 1bpdc, (9fpdc, 1bpdc) x 3 (3, -, 4, 4, 4) times, 1Inc, 1bpdc, (9fpdc, 1bpdc) x 1 (1, -, 1, 1, 1) time, 1Inc, (1bpdc, 9fpdc), x 2 (2, -, 3, 3, 3) times, slst into second ch.
R2: 2ch, 1bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 1Inc, 3bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 1Inc, 3bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 3 (3, 3 4, 4, 4) times, 1Inc, 3bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 1Inc, (3bpdc, 7fpdc), x 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) times, 1bpdc, slst into second ch.
R3: 2ch, 2bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 1Inc, 5bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 1Inc, 5bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 3 (3, 3 4, 4, 4) times, 1Inc, 5bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 1Inc (5bpdc, 5fpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) times, 2bpdc, slst into the second ch.
R4: 2ch, 3bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 1Inc, 7bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 1Inc, 7bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 3 (3, 3 4, 4, 4) times, 1Inc, 7bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 1Inc, (7bpdc, 3fpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) times, 3bpdc, slst into the second ch.
R5: 2ch, 4bpdc, (1fpdc, 9bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 1Inc, 9bpdc, (1fpdc, 9bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 1Inc, 9bpdc, (1fpdc, 9bpdc) x 3 (3, 3 4, 4, 4) times, 1Inc, 9bpdc, (1fpdc, 9bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 1Inc, (9bpdc, 1fpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) times, 4bpdc, slst into the second ch.
R6: 2ch, 3bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 2fpdc, 1Inc, 2fpdc, 7bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 2fpdc, 1Inc, 2fpdc, 7bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 3 (3, 3 4, 4, 4) times, 2fpdc, 1Inc, 2fpdc, 7bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 2fpdc, 1Inc, 2fpdc, (7bpdc, 3fpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) times, 3bpdc, slst into the second ch.
R7: 2ch, 2bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 4fpdc, 1Inc, 4fpdc, 5bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 4fpdc, 1Inc, 4fpdc, 5bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 3 (3, 3 4, 4, 4) times, 4fpdc, 1Inc, 4fpdc, 5bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 4fpdc, 1Inc, 4fpdc, (5bpdc, 5fpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) times, 2bpdc, slst into the second ch.
R8: 2ch, 1bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 6fpdc, 1Inc, 6fpdc, 3bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 6fpdc, 1Inc, 6fpdc, 3bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 3 (3, 3 4, 4, 4) times, 6fpdc, 1Inc, 6fpdc, 3bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 6fpdc, 1Inc, 6fpdc, (3bpdc, 7fpdc), x 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) times, 1bpdc, slst into second ch.
R9: 2ch (9fpdc, 1bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 8fpdc, 1IncD, 8fpdc, 1bpdc, (9fpdc, 1bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 8fpdc, 1IncD, 8fpdc, 1bpdc, (9fpdc, 1bpdc) x 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, 8fpdc, 1IncD, 8fpdc, 1bpdc, (9fpdc, 1bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 8fpdc, 1IncD, 8fpdc, (1bpdc, 9fpdc), x 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) times, slst into second ch.
R10: 2ch, 1bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 7fpdc, 2bpdc, 1Inc, 2bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, 7fpdc, 2bpdc, 1Inc, 2bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, 7fpdc, 2bpdc, 1Inc, 2bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, 7fpdc, 2bpdc, 1Inc, 2bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) times, 7fpdc, 1bpdc, slst into second ch.
R11: 2ch, 2bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 5fpdc, 4bpdc, 1Inc, 4bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, 5fpdc, 4bpdc, 1Inc, 4bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, 5fpdc, 4bpdc, 1Inc, 4bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, 5fpdc, 4bpdc, 1Inc, 4bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) times, 5fpdc, 2bpdc, slst into second ch.
R12:2ch, 3bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 3fpdc, 6bpdc, 1Inc, 6bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, 3fpdc, 6bpdc, 1Inc, 6bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, 3fpdc, 6bpdc, 1Inc, 6bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, 3fpdc, 6bpdc, 1Inc, 6bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) times, 3fpdc, 3bpdc, slst into second ch.
R13: 2ch, 4bpdc, (1fpdc, 9bpdc) x 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) time, 1fpdc, 8bpdc, 1IncD, 8bpdc, (1fpdc, 9bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, 1fpdc, 9bpdc, 1IncD, 8bpdc, (1fpdc, 9bpdc) x 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, 1fpdc, 8bpdc, 1IncD, 8bpdc, (1fpdc, 9bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, 1fpdc, 8bpdc, 1IncD, 8bpdc, (1fpdc, 9bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) times, 1fpdc, 4bpdc, slst into second ch.
R14: 2ch, 3bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, 2fpdc, 1Inc, 2fpdc, (7bpdc, 3fpdc) x 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3), 7bpdc, 2fpdc, 1Inc, 2fpdc, (7bpdc, 3fpdc) x 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6) times, 7bpdc, 2fpdc, 1Inc, 2fpdc, (7bpdc, 3fpdc) x 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3), 7bpdc, 2fpdc, 1Inc, 2fpdc, (7bpdc, 3fpdc) x 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, 3bpdc, slst into second ch.
R15: 2ch, 2bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, 4fpdc, 1Inc, 4fpdc, (5bpdc, 5fpdc) x 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3), 5bpdc, 4fpdc, 1Inc,4fpdc, (5bpdc, 5fpdc) x 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6) times, 5bpdc, 4fpdc, 1Inc, 4fpdc, (5bpdc, 5fpdc) x 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3), 5bpdc, 4fpdc, 1Inc,4fpdc, (5bpdc, 5fpdc) x 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, 2bpdc, slst into second ch.
R16: 2ch, 1bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, 6fpdc, 1Inc, 6fpdc, (3bpdc, 7fpdc) x 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3), 3bpdc, 6fpdc, 1Inc,6fpdc, (3bpdc, 7fpdc) x 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6) times, 3bpdc, 6fpdc, 1Inc, 6fpdc, (3bpdc, 7fpdc) x 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3), 3bpdc, 6fpdc, 1Inc,6fpdc, (3bpdc, 7fpdc) x 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, 1bpdc, slst into second ch.
R17: 2ch, (9pfdc, 1bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, 8fpdc, 1IncD, 8fpdc, (1bpdc, 9fpdc) x 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3), 1bpdc, 8fpdc, 1IncD,8fpdc, (1bpdc, 9fpdc) x 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6) times, 1bpdc, 8fpdc, 1IncD, 8fpdc, (1bpdc, 9fpdc) x 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3), 1bpdc, 8fpdc, 1IncD,8fpdc, (1bpdc, 9fpdc) x 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times, slst into second ch.
For Size 1, the YOKE is done. Move to the separating round.
Sizes 2 (3, 4, 5, 6) only
R18: 2ch, 1bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) times, 7fpdc, 2bpdc, 1Inc, 2bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) times, 7fpdc, 2bpdc, 1Inc, 2bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) times, 7fpdc, 2bpdc, 1Inc, 2bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) times, 7fpdc, 2bpdc, 1Inc, 2bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) times, 7fpdc, 1bpdc, slst into second ch.
R19: 2ch, 2bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) times,, 5fpdc, 4bpdc, 1Inc, 4bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) times, 5fpdc, 4bpdc, 1Inc, 4bpdc, (5fpdc,5bpdc) x 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) times, 5fpdc, 4bpdc, 1Inc, 4bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) times, 5fpdc, 4bpdc, 1Inc, 4bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) times, 5fpdc, 2bpdc, slst into second ch.
For Size 2, the YOKE is done. Move to the separating round.
Sizes 3 (4, 5, 6) only
R20: 2ch, 3bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2) times, 3fpdc, 6bpdc, 1Inc, 6bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 4 (4, 4, 4) times, 3fpdc, 6bpdc, 1Inc, 6bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 6 (7, 7, 7) times, 3fpdc, 6bpdc, 1Inc, 6bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 4 (4, 4, 4) times, 3fpdc, 6bpdc, 1Inc, 6bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 3 (4, 4, 4) times, 3fpdc, 3bpdc, slst into second ch.
R21: 2ch, 4bpdc, (1fpdc, 9bpdc) x 2 (2, 2, 2) times, 1fpdc, 8bpdc, 1IncD, 8bpdc, (1fpdc, 9bpdc) x 4 (4, 4, 4) times, 1fpdc, 8bpdc, 1IncD, 8bpdc, (1fpdc, 9bpdc) x 6 (7, 7, 7) times, 1fpdc, 8bpdc, 1IncD, 8bpdc, (1fpdc, 9bpdc) x 4 (4, 4, 4) times, 1fpdc, 8bpdc, 1Inc, 8bpdc, (1fpdc, 9bpdc) x 3 (4, 4, 4) times, 1fpdc, 4bpdc, slst into second ch.
3, 3) times, 2fpdc, 1Inc, 2fpdc, (7bpdc, 3fpdc) x 5 (5, 5, 5) times, 7bpdc, 2fpdc, 1Inc, 2fpdc, (7bpdc, 3fpdc) x 7 (8, 8, 8) times, 7bpdc, 2fpdc, 1Inc, 2fpdc, (7bpdc, 3fpdc) x 5 (5, 5, 5) times, 7bpdc, 2fpdc, 1Inc, 2fpdc, (7bpdc, 3fpdc) x 4 (5, 5, 5) times, 3bpdc, slst into second ch.
For Size 3, the YOKE is done. Move to the separating round.
Sizes 4 (5, 6) only
R23: 2ch, 2bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 3 (3, 3) times, 4fpdc, 1Inc, 4fpdc, (5bpdc, 5fpdc) x 5 (5, 5) times, 5bpdc, 4fpdc, 1Inc, 4fpdc, (5bpdc, 5fpdc) x 8 (8, 8) times, 5bpdc, 4fpdc, 1Inc, 4fpdc, (5bpdc, 5fpdc) x 5 (5, 5) times, 5bpdc, 4fpdc, 1Inc, 4fpdc, (5bpdc, 5fpdc) x 5 (5, 5) times, 2bpdc, slst into second ch.
For Size 4, the YOKE is done. Move to the separating round.
Sizes 5 (6) only
R24: 2ch, 1bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 3 (3) times, 6fpdc, 1Inc, 6fpdc, (3bpdc, 7fpdc) x 5 (5) times, 3bpdc, 6fpdc, 1Inc, 6fpdc, (3bpdc, 7fpdc) x 8 (8) times, 3bpdc, 6fpdc, 1Inc, 6fpdc, (3bpdc, 7fpdc) x 5 (5) times, 3bpdc, 6fpdc, 1Inc, 6fpdc, (3bpdc, 7fpdc) x 5 (5) times, 1bpdc, slst into second ch.
R25: 2ch, (9fpdc, 1bpdc) x 3 (3) times, 8fpdc, 1IncD, 8fpdc, (1bpdc, 9fpdc) x 5 (5) times, 1bpdc, 8fpdc, 1IncD, 8fpdc, (1bpdc, 9fpdc) x 8 (8) times, 1bpdc, 8fpdc, 1IncD, 8fpdc, (1bpdc, 9fpdc) x 5 (5) times, 1bpdc, 8fpdc, 1Inc, 8fpdc, (1bpdc, 9fpdc) x 5 (5) times, slst into second ch.
For Size 5, the YOKE is done. Move to the separating round.
Size 6 only
R26: 2ch, 1bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 3 times, 7fpdc, 2bpdc, 1Inc, 2bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 6 times, 7fpdc, 2bpdc, 1Inc, 2bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 9 times, 7fpdc, 2bpdc, 1Inc, 2bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc) x 6 times, 7fpdc, 2bpdc, 1Inc, 2bpdc, (7fpdc, 3bpdc)x 5 times, 7fpdc, 1bpdc, slst into second ch.
R27: 2ch, 2bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 3 times, 5fpdc, 4bpdc, 1Inc, 4bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 6 times, 5fpdc, 4bpdc, 1Inc, 4bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 9 times, 5fpdc, 4bpdc, 1Inc, 4bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc) x 6 times, 5fpdc, 4bpdc, 1Inc, 4bpdc, (5fpdc, 5bpdc)x 5 times, 5fpdc, 2bpdc, slst into second ch.
R28: 2ch, 3bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 3 times, 3fpdc, 6bpdc, 1Inc, 6bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 6 times, 3fpdc, 6bpdc, 1Inc, 6bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 9 times, 3fpdc, 6bpdc, 1Inc, 6bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc) x 6 times, 3fpdc, 6bpdc, 1Inc, 6bpdc, (3fpdc, 7bpdc)x 5 times, 3fpdc, 3bpdc, slst into second ch.
For Size 6, the YOKE is done. Move to the separating round.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts, also.
SEPARATING ROUND
Size 1
Work in the established pattern until the 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch7, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp; work into the established pattern until the next 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch7, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp; work into the established pattern to the end of the round;
Size 2
Work in the established pattern until the 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch13, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp; work into the established pattern until the next 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch13, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp; work into the established pattern to the end of the round;
Size 3
Work in the established pattern until the 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch15, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp; work into the established pattern until the next 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch15, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp; work into the established pattern to the end of the round;
Size 4
Work in the established pattern until the 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch13, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp; work into the established pattern until the next 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch13, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp; work into the established pattern to the end of the round;
Size 5
Work in the established pattern until the 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch17, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp; work into the established pattern until the next 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch17, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp; work into the established pattern to the end of the round;
Size 6
Work in the established pattern until the 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch21, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp; work into the established pattern until the next 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch21, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp; work into the established pattern to the end of the round;
BODY
R1: Work into the established pattern, except the armpit chains; work 1dc into each armpit ch.
At the end of this round, you should have
160 (180, 200, 220, 240, 260) sts;
R2 – R37*: Continue to work into the established pattern until you complete the length.
*work as many rounds as you need to get to the desired length;
To finish the BODY, move to the RIBBING section;
SLEEVES
If you consider shaping the sleeve, you must gradually decrease the sweater to be tapered so it’s tighter around the wrist.
How to calculate the decrease pattern
Step 1 Measure the desired length and calculate how many rows you will need to complete that length ( according to your gauge);
Step 2: Measure the circumference that you will want the sleeve to have at the cuff and calculate how many sts you will need;
Step 3: From the number of sts on the upper arm, subtract the number at the cuff; the result will be the number of sts you need to decrease.
Step 4: because you will decrease with 2sts per row (one at the beginning and one at the end), divide the number of sts that you need to decrease by 2; the result will be the number of decreased rows.
Step 5: Divide the number of rows you need to make to complete the length by the number of decreased rows; the result will be the number of rows in a pattern repeat.
For example, I worked in total for my sample 50 rows; I wanted to decrease with 20 sts; 20/2 = 10 decrease rounds;
50/10 = 5 rounds per pattern repeat, meaning I will decrease one round, followed by 4 rounds without decreasing.
To make the decreases, work 2 sts together after the 2ch at the beginning of the round and 2sts together before the 2ch. The 2sts together can be either front post dc or back post double crochet, depending on the current pattern of the round.
R1:To start the sleeves, rejoin yarn in one of the sts at the armpit, ch2, and work into the established pattern to the end of the round;
At the end of the first round, you should have 60 (70, 80, 80, 90, 100) sts.
R2 – R50*: work into the established pattern;
* you can work as many rounds as you want to complete the desired length, with or without decreasing;
RIBBING
Work the ribbing around the neckline, cuffs, and bottom hem.
R1: 2ch (counts as first bpdc), 1fpdc in next st, *1bpdc, 1fpdc; *rep. to the end of the round; sl st into the second chain.
R2 – R4*: rep. R1
* you can work more sts if you want a wider ribbing.
TO FINISH
Weave in all loose ends and block to measurements.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts, also.


![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)
