The Coaty Sweater holds a special place in my heart as it was one of my earliest designs back in 2018, marking the beginning of my journey in the world of crochet. Despite my limited experience at the time, I’ve always had a soft spot for this design, and I believe it still holds up beautifully.

This year, I found myself yearning for a Coaty Sweater of my own once again. In addition to satisfying my own crochet cravings, I saw it as the perfect opportunity to breathe new life into both the written pattern and the accompanying video tutorial.

The Coaty Sweater is the ultimate winter wardrobe essential. Its extraordinary texture and adaptable length make it a versatile choice for keeping both warm and stylish when the temperature takes a dip. Whether you opt to flaunt it on its own during milder days or layer it beneath your jacket for that extra toasty feeling on chilly winter mornings, the Coaty Sweater is destined to become your trusty, go-to piece.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

I hope you will love this pattern as much as I do!

Let’s see what we will need and how to make this beautiful Coaty Sweater.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Worsted Weight yarn (Size 4, Medium)

• Crochet Hook:
o 6 mm crochet hook
o 5.5 mm crochet hook for collar
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

This sweater boasts a unique panel construction, which not only enhances its structure but also complements the intricate stitch pattern. We’ve added thoughtful design elements, such as a longer back and subtle side slits, to elevate its look. The snug turtle neck collar adds to the overall comfort and charm of this design.

With an oversized fit and approximately 30 cm of positive ease around the bust, the Coaty Sweater offers both style and roominess, making it the perfect choice for any winter occasion. Whether you’re out and about or enjoying a relaxing day at home, this sweater will keep you feeling cozy and looking fabulous.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Coaty Sweater Pattern is thoughtfully designed to cater to a wide range of sizes, with options available from Extra Small all the way up to 5 Extra Large. To provide a helpful point of reference, our model stands at 5.5 feet tall and is wearing a size Small

Neckline a: 49cm (50, 51, 53, 54, 55, 57, 59, 61)
Bust b: 112cm (118, 123, 130, 137, 147, 157, 167, 177)
Wrist c: 27cm (28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 39.5, 41.5)
Armhole d: 35cm (37, 38, 41, 43, 44, 46, 48, 51)
Sleeve length e: 47cm (47, 47, 49, 49, 49, 51, 51, 51)
Length front f: 64cm (66, 66, 68, 68, 71, 71, 73, 73)

YARN

I used Bingo XL, by Hobbii in color 03, Cup of Tea. Yarn Composition 100% Acrylic. Each skein has 100 grams and 200 meters

How much yarn do you need?

For each size you will need: 7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 13) skeins

1400 (1500, 1560, 1720, 1810, 1950, 2110, 2270, 2410) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
fptr – front post triple crochet
Dssblo – double slip stitch or half double crochet slip stitch in the back loop only (for the collar)
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rounds
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 6 mm crochet hook in the Alpine Stitch
11 sts = 10 cm
9.5 rows = 10 cm

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

STITCH PATTERN

The primary stitch pattern featured in the Coaty Sweater is the Alpine Stitch. Additionally, for the collar, we utilize the double slip stitch technique (although you have the option to substitute it with any other ribbing pattern of your choice). To finish off the bottom edge, we employ the single crochet stitch, worked seamlessly in the round.

The Alpine Stitch pattern consists of a simple 2-row repeat. Interestingly, the wrong side of your work, which is the one displaying the intricate texture, is the right side of your sweater.

This is because on the wrong side, we work front post triple crochet stitches, and they are alternated with the front post triple crochet stitches from the preceding wrong side row. As a result, each alternating wrong side row commences and concludes differently, creating a unique texture pattern for your sweater.

Below you will find the stitch pattern and the stitch chart.

Chain a multiple of 2 sts
R1: start with the second st and work 1sc in each st to the end of the row; 3ch and turn;
R2: 1frtr around the second sc, 1dc in next st, *1fptr around next sc, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the end of the row; 1ch and turn;
R3: 1sc in each st to the end of the row; 3ch and turn;

R4: 1dc in second sc, 1fptr around next dc, 2 rows below, *1dc in next st, 1fptr around next dc 2 rows below; *rep until you have 2sts left, 1dc in the last 2sts.
R5: rep. R3
R6: *1fptr around the next dc 2 rows below, 1dc in next st; * rep. to the end of the row; 1ch and turn;
R7: rep. R3

Rep. R4 to R7 until desired length

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

INSTRUCTION

FRONT PANEL

• Pattern Notes:
  The front panel is worked flat; turn after each row;
• 1ch at the beginning of a row does not count as a first sc;
• 3ch at the beginning of a row will count as a first dc.
• if you don’t want the bottom of the front panel to be narrower, start with the number of sts mentioned after R3 below +1 (turning ch)

Start: ch60 (64, 66, 70, 74, 80, 86, 90, 96) sts
R1: start into the second st, 1sc in each st to the end of the row; 3ch and turn
R2: 1frtr around the second sc, 1dc in next st, *1fptr around next sc, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the end of the row; 1ch and turn;
R3: 2sc in the first st, 1sc in each of the next sts, except the last one, 2sc in the last st; 3ch and turn;
Total sts: 61 (65, 67, 71, 75, 81, 87, 91, 97)
R4: 1fptr around the ch3, 2 rows below, 1dc in next sc, *1fptr around the next dc, 2 rows below, 1dc in next st; * rep. to the end of the row; 1ch and turn;
R5: 1sc in each st to the end of the row; 3ch and turn;
R6: *1dc in next st, 1fptr around the next dc, 2 rows below; *rep. to the end of the row until you have 2sts left, 1dc in the last 2sts; 1ch and turn;
R7: rep. R5
R8: *1fptr around the next dc 2 rows below, 1dc in next st; * rep. to the end of the row; 1ch and turn;
R9: rep. R3
Rep. R6 to R9 until you have 57 (59, 59, 61, 61, 63, 63, 65, 65) rows.

Shaping the neckline;

Note: You have the flexibility to customize the neckline to your preferred width. For the last 4 rows of the front panel, exclusively work into the shoulder stitches, leaving the neckline lower. To facilitate this, use stitch markers to identify the stitches for each shoulder: 18 (20, 21, 22, 24, 26, 29, 30, 33).
Start from where your yarn is and work into the established pattern only on the left

shoulder sts, the next 4 rows; your last row will be a sc row; fasten off.
Rejoin yarn into the first marked st of the right shoulder and work into the established pattern, only into the shoulder sts for the next 4 rows; Fasten off.

BACK PANEL

Follow the same pattern notes as for the FRONT PANEL except the last one;
if you want to have a straight bottom for the front panel, you should start with the number of sts mentioned after R9.

Start: ch 54( 58, 60, 64, 68, 74, 80, 84, 90) sts
R1: start into the second st, 1sc in each st to the end of the row; 3ch and turn
R2: 1frtr around the second sc, 1dc in next st, *1fptr around next sc, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the end of the row; 1ch and turn;
R3: 2sc in the first st, 1sc in each of the next sts, except the last one, 2sc in the last st; 3ch and turn;
Total sts: 55 (59, 61, 65, 69, 75, 81, 85, 91)
R4: 1fptr around the ch3, 2 rows below, 1dc in next sc, *1fptr around the next dc, 2 rows below, 1dc in next st; * rep. to the end of the row; 1ch and turn;
R5: rep. R3
Total sts: 57 (61, 63, 67, 71, 77, 83, 87, 93)
R6: Rep. R4
R7: Rep. R3
Total sts: 59 (63, 65, 69, 73, 79, 85, 89, 95)
R8: Rep. R4
R9: rep. R3
Total sts: 61 (65, 67, 71, 75, 81, 87, 91, 97)
R10: Rep. R4
R11: 1sc in each st to the end of the row; 3ch and turn
R12: *1dc in next st, 1fptr around the next dc, 2 rows below; *rep. to the end of the row until you have 2sts left, 1dc in the last 2sts; 1ch and turn;
R13: rep. R3
Rep. R10 to R13 until you have in total 67 (69, 69, 71, 71, 73, 73, 75, 75) rows; Fasten off.

SLEEVES (make 2)

Notes:
if you want to adjust the pattern for the sleeves, use the instructions in the section HOW TO ADJUST THE COATY SWEATER ACCORDING WITH YOUR DESIRED FIT AND MEASUREMENTS
1ch at the beginning of the row does not count as first sc;
3ch at the beginning of the row, counts as first dc

For the sleeves, starting with Row 7, we will follow this repeating pattern: 1 Increasing Row followed by 7 rows without any further increases. The pattern below is provided for more than 8 rows to accommodate variations that might occur on the wrong side, based on the position of the front post triple crochet:
Start: ch 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46) sts
R1: start with the second st and work 1sc in each st to the end of the row; 3ch and turn;
R2: 1frtr around the second sc, 1dc in next st, *1fptr around next sc, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the end of the row; 1ch and turn;
R3: 1sc in each st to the end of the row; 3ch and turn;
R4: 1dc in second sc, 1fptr around next dc, 2 rows below, *1dc in next st, 1fptr around next dc 2 rows below; *rep until you have 2sts left, 1dc in the last 2sts.
R5: rep. R3

R6: *1fptr around the next dc 2 rows below, 1dc in next st; * rep. to the end of the row; 1ch and turn;
R7: 2sc in the first st, 1sc in each of the next sts, except the last one, 2sc in the last st; 3ch and turn;
Total sts: 31 (33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47)
R8: 1fptr around the ch3, 2 rows below, 1dc in next sc, *1fptr around the next dc, 2 rows below, 1dc in next st; * rep. to the end of the row; 1ch and turn;
R9: 1sc in each st to the end of the row; 3ch and turn;
R10: *1dc in next st, 1fptr around the next dc, 2 rows below; *rep. to the end of the row until you have 2sts left, 1dc in the last 2sts; 1ch and turn;
R11: rep. R9
R12: rep R6
R13: Rep. R9
R14: Rep. R10
R15: Rep. R7
R16: Rep. R10
R17: Rep. R9
R18: Rep. R6
R19: Rep. R9
R20: Rep. R10
R21: Rep. R9
R22: Rep R6.

We will continue to rep. R7 – R22 until you have in total: 45 (45, 45, 47, 47, 47, 49, 49, 49) rows

ASSEMBLING AND FINISHING

Before assembling, we’ll start by working the bottom edging on both the front and back panels. It’s essential to complete this edging before joining the side panels, as it will be necessary for joining the side edges as well.

Use stitch markers to clearly identify the first single crochet row without any increases at both ends. It’s important to note that we’ll be working on the side rows as well. To assist you visually, you can refer to the video tutorial available [here]

When working into the side rows, keep in mind that we will place 2 single crochets into each double crochet side row and 1 single crochet into each single crochet side row. Depending on your tension, you may need to adjust the number of single crochets in a side row accordingly.

The first stitch of the bottom edge will align with the first right-side single crochet side row that doesn’t have an increase, while the last stitch in the row will correspond to the first single crochet side row without an increase on the left. This ensures a neat and balanced edge.

When you reach the corner stitches, which are the first and last stitches of the foundation chain, work 3 single crochets to make the turn along the side of the chain.

To maintain a straight edge in line with the side of the panels, you’ll begin and end the row by working a decrease, specifically by crocheting 2 single crochets together. This technique ensures a neat and uniform edge.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

R1: Rejoin yarn into the indicated st, as explained above
1ch, sc2tog (dec), 1sc in each st (as explained above) until the next first st of the foundation chain, 3sc into that st, 1sc in each st of the foundation except the last one, 3sc in that last st, 1sc in each of the side rows sts, except the last 2, sc2tog; 1ch and turn;
R2: sc2tog, 1sc in each st until 2sts left, sc2tog, 1ch and turn.
On the second row we didn’t work the increases into the corner, but you will need to mark the second st, for the increase on the next row
R3: slst2tog (see the video tutorial here), 1slst, until the marked st in the corner, 2slst, in the same st, 1slst in each of the next sts until the second corner, 2slst in next st, 1slst in each of the next sts, until you have 2sts left, slst2tog.

ASSEMBLING

Step 1: Utilize the yarn needle to sew the shoulders together. For a comprehensive, step-by-step guide on the assembly process and techniques, please refer to the video tutorial available [here]

Step 2: When joining the sleeves into the armhole, employ stitch markers to align the center stitch of the sleeve with the shoulder seam for proper placement.

Step 3: fold the piece in half and sew the side edges

COLLAR

For the collar, I used as a stitch pattern the double slip stitch (dslst blo) or half double crochet slip stitch into the back loop only: Yarn Over, insert the hook into the back loop only of the indicated st, yarn over and pull out a loop and pass the loop through all the loops on the hook.
Before starting work on the actual collar, rejoin yarn into the side of the neckline and work one round in sc

Collar Ribbing

Use a 5.5 mm crochet hook and ch26 turn;
R1: 1dslst in each st until the edge of the neckline. 1slst into the next 2sts of the neckline edge; turn
R2: 1dslst blo in each st to the end of the row; 1ch and turn;
R3: 1dslst blo in each st, until the neckline edge, 1slst in the next 2sts of the neckline edge.
Rep. R2 and R3 until you finish the entire neckline circumference. Join the ends using slip stitches on the right side (when folding the collar, not to make the seam visible)

That was it! I hope you like it.

For a comprehensive, step-by-step guide on the entire sweater-making process and techniques, please refer to the video tutorial available [click on the photo below]

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

I began making this Good Vibes Crocheted Cardigan at the end of March (yes, I know it took me a while). Initially, I wanted to copy a knitted cardigan I made last summer, but it’s not easy to do that.

Then, I got this nice Pearly Haze yarn from Hobbii when they started selling it. I thought it would be great for the crocheted cardigan I had in mind. I wanted it to be something I could wear when the weather gets cooler, so I decided to use a special stitch that makes it airy.

While I was working on it, I decided to make it longer because I didn’t have any long cardigans. All the cardigans I made before were shorter. But when I finished it, I didn’t like it much, and I think it’s because it’s longer than what I’m used to. Still, I think it looks nice overall.

Anyway, here I am sharing with you how you can make this Good Vibes Cardigan and I hope you will like it. 

Pentru Postarea in limba Romana, click aici

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. 

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size 4, Worsted, Medium weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 6 mm crochet hook
o 5.5 mm crochet hook for the ribbing
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

Meet the Good Vibes Cardigan, your go-to for a smooth transition into fall. It’s got a simple drop-shoulder design that’s comfy and easy to wear. We start from the bottom, crocheting the back and front panels together as one piece. When we reach the armpit, we split into separate back and front pieces, then join them at the shoulders.

The sleeves are worked right into the armholes, and we make them narrower for a great arm fit. To finish it off, we add ribbing around the neck and front edges for that classic cardigan look.

The best part? You can adjust the cardigan’s length and width to fit you perfectly. It’s all about making it your own. Enjoy a cozy fall with your very own Good Vibes Cardigan.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Good Vibes Cardigan Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with an 88 cm bust circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL) ( 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL);
All the measurements use as reference Standard Body Measurements by ASTM International.

Final Measurements of the Good Vibes Cardigan
Width a: 53.5 cm (58, 60, 64.5, 69) (73.5, 78, 82.5, 87)
Armhole depth. b: 17.5 cm (19, 20, 21.5, 23) (23, 24, 24, 27)
Sleeve length c: 29 cm (29, 31, 31, 32) (32, 33, 33, 33)
Length d: 70.5 (72, 73, 74.5, 76) (76, 77, 77, 80)

YARN
For the Good Vibes Cardigan, I used: Pearly Haze By Hobbii Yarn, in color Cappuccino (10). Yarn composition: 73% Viscose, 27% Wool; Each ball has 50 grams and is approximately 110 meters (120 yards).

For each size, you will approximately need:
1170 (1290, 1380, 1500, 1640) (1730, 1860, 1940, 2140) meters
11 (12,13,14, 15) (16, 17, 18, 20) balls of Pearly Haze

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
scblo – single crochet in back loop only
hdc – half double crochet
Vst – V stitch (1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc – in the same st/space)
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – round
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 6mm crochet hook in the Vstitch pattern
4.5Vsts = 10 cm
7.5 rows = 10 cm

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. 

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

V STITCH PATTERN

The main stitch pattern of the Good Vibes Cardigan is a variation of the V stitch pattern.

This stitch pattern requires a multiple of 3+1 sts.
R1 (when working in the foundation chain) – 3ch, 1hdc in the same st, skip 2sts, *(1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc – Vst) in the next st, skip the next 2sts; *rep. until you have 1st left (3sts left counting the 2sts that you need to skip from the last repeat), (1hdc, 1ch, 1hdc) into the last st.
R2: 3ch, 1hdc in the first 1ch-sp, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp; finish the row with 1hdc in the last 1ch-sp, 1ch, and 1hdc into the second ch.

CONSTRUCTION

We start from the bottom, crocheting the back and front panels together as one piece. When we reach the armpit, we split into separate back and front pieces, then join them at the shoulders.

The sleeves are worked right into the armholes, and we make them narrower for a great arm fit. To finish it off, we add ribbing around the neck and front edges for that classic cardigan look.

PATTERN NOTES

– All sections of this cardigan, except for the sleeves, are worked back and forth; remember to turn at the end of each row.
– When it comes to the sleeves, they are worked in the round. However, if you want to maintain the appearance of the stitch pattern, make sure to turn after each round.
– It’s important to note that the initial 2 chain stitches at the beginning of a row are equivalent to the first half double crochet stitch.

INSTRUCTIONS

The numbers are written in the pattern below, XS (S, M, L, XL) ( 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL), unless the numbers apply for all the sizes.

BOTTOM RIBBING
Start: ch 11
R1: starting into the second st, 1sc in each st to the end of the row; 1ch and turn;
R2: 1sc in the fist st, 1scblo in each of the next sts, except the last one, 1sc into the last st; 1ch and turn;
Rep. R2 until you have 139 (151, 154, 166, 178) (190, 196, 208, 220) rows;

LENGTH TO THE ARMPIT

R1: 1ch, 1sc into each side row of the ribbing; you should have at the end of this row 139 (151, 154, 166, 178) (190, 196, 208, 220) sc sts;

R2: 3ch, 1hdc into the same st, skip the next 2sts, *1Vst (1hdc, 3ch, 1hdc) into the next st, skip the next 2sts; *rep. to the end of the row, until you have 1st left (or 3 counting the 2sts you need to skip from the last repeat), (1hdc, 1ch, 1hdc) into the last st;
Total sts: 45 (49, 50, 54, 58) (62, 64, 68, 72) Vsts plus 2 half V sts (1 at both ends);
R3: 3ch, 1hdc into the first 1ch-sp, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp; finish the row with 1hdc into the last 1ch-sp, 1ch, 1hdc into the second ch.

Rep. R3 until you have 36 (36, 36, 36, 36) (36, 36, 36, 36) rows to the armpit, or until you have the desire length.

ARMHOLE DEPTH

Use stitch markers to mark the 3 panels stitches: right front panel, back panel and left front panel;
Count only full Vsts (not counting the half Vsts at the beginning and at the end of the row
XS – 10Vsts right front panel, 25Vsts, 10Vsts left front panel
S – 11Vsts right front panel, 27Vsts, 11Vsts left front panel
M – 11Vsts right front panel, 28Vsts, 11Vsts left front panel
L – 12Vsts right front panel, 30Vsts, 12Vsts left front panel
XL – 12Vsts right front panel, 33Vsts, 12Vsts left front panel
XXL – 13Vsts right front panel, 35Vsts, 13Vsts left front panel
3XL – 13Vsts right front panel, 38Vsts, 13Vsts left front panel
4XL – 14Vsts right front panel, 40Vsts, 14Vsts left front panel
5XL – 15Vsts right front panel, 42Vsts, 15Vsts left front panel

Continue working each section individually into the established stitch pattern until you have

13 (14, 15, 16, 17) (17, 18, 18, 20) rows;

Finishing Row

1ch, 1sc in the same st, *2ch, 1sc into the next 3ch-sp; *rep. to the end of the row

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. 

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

TO ASSEMBLE

Stitch the shoulder front panel with the back panel (video tutorial here)

SLEEVES (work both identical)

The sleeves are worked right into the armholes, and we make them narrower for a great arm fit. To finish it off, we add ribbing around the neck and front edges for that classic cardigan look.

Start by rejoining the yarn at the armpit. We will work into the side rows of the armhole edge.

When you start a new round, turn your work around so your stitches look the same as the rest of the cardigan.
Always begin the round by putting your first stitches into the 3-chain space (we’ll call it 3ch-sp) right at the beginning of the round.
To get into that 3-chain space, just use a slip stitch.

R1: 5ch, 1hdc into the same st, skip the next side row, *1Vsts into the next side row, skip the next side row; *rep. until the end of the round; close the round with a ss into the second ch; turn; ss to the first 3ch-sp
R2: 5ch, 1hdc into the same 3ch-sp, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp; close the round with 1ss into the second ch; turn; ss to the first 3ch-sp

R3 (decrease round): 2ch, 1Vst in next 3ch-sp, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp; close the round with 1ss into the second ch; turn; ss into the first 3ch-sp;
R4: 5ch, 1hdc in the same 3ch-sp, 1Vst in each 3ch-sp; close the round with 1ss into the second ch; ss into the first 3ch-sp
R5 – R6: Rep. R2
Rep. R2 to R6 until you have 22 (22, 23, 23, 24) (24, 25, 25, 25) rows;

Important Points to Remember:

– Continue working rows until you reach your desired sleeve length.
– If you find that the sleeve width is satisfactory and no further narrowing is required, you may discontinue the decreasing process and repeat Row 2 until you finish the sleeve.
– If you prefer to reduce the number of stitches gradually, consider adding extra rounds between the decrease rounds. This way, you’ll have fewer stitches to decrease by the end.

Finishing Row
1ch, 1sc in the same st, *2ch, 1sc into the next 3ch-sp, 1ch, 1sc in next 3ch-sp; *rep. to the end of the row

Ribbing
Use a 5.5 or 5 mm crochet hook
After finishing the last round work one more round with 1sc in each st;
Then start the ribbing;
Start: ch11 and turn
R1: starting with the second st, 1sc in each st to the end, 1ss into the next 2sts of the edge; turn
R2: skip the 2ss, 1scblo into each st, except the last one, 1sc into the last st; 1ch and turn;
R3: 1sc in the first st, 1scblo in each st to the end; 1ss into the next 2sts of the edge; turn;
Rep. R2 and R3 until you complete the entire circumference; join with slip stitches.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. 

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

NECKLINE AND FRONT EDGES RIBBING

Use a 5.5 or 5 mm crochet hook
Work the foundation row of the ribbing in single crochet on the right side of the cardigan.
Rejoin yarn into the first st of the right front panel bottom corner
Ch1 and work 1sc in each st until the bottom corner of the left front panel;

Note:
When crocheting along the edges of the front panel, you’ll be working into the side rows. Here’s what to do:

In one side row, make 2 single crochets (2sc).
In the next side row, make just one single crochet (1 sc).
By following these steps, you’ll have a total of 3 single crochets (3sc) for every 2 side rows. Keep in mind that the result can vary depending on your tension and how tall the stitches are at the edge of the front panel. Feel free to adjust the pattern based on your own tension preferences.
After finishing the sc row;
Start: ch8 and turn
R1: starting with the second st, 1sc in each st to the end, 1ss into the next 2sts of the edge; turn
R2: skip the 2ss, 1scblo into each st, except the last one, 1sc into the last st; 1ch and turn;
R3: 1sc in the first st, 1scblo in each st to the end; 1ss into the next 2sts of the edge; turn;
Rep. R2 and R3 until you complete the entire length;

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

Thank you for your support! ☺

You can also find a video tutorial to follow along with the written pattern here

I’ve been really excited to create a crocheted skirt using a ripple stitch pattern, and I’m so glad that I finally did it.  This season, I’ve been more focused on wearing skirts and dresses, and I believe that my current mood influenced the creation of the Wavy Skirt.

When I began working on this crocheted skirt, I had my heart set on making a long maxi skirt. Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough yarn to make it as long as I wanted. Despite this setback, I’m genuinely happy with how it turned out in the end. I now feel that the length of the skirt is just perfect.

For a comprehensive guide , refer to the PDF version of this pattern, which includes a detailed stitch chart for every step. The PDF is available for purchase at the provided links below:

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

If you are excited as I was to make this crocheted skirt, let’s just see what we will need and how to make it.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size 3, DK weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 5 mm crochet hook
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors
• 2cm wide elastic band (it should be around 5-7cm shorter than the waist circ)

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Wavy Skirt is simple to make. You create it in a straight, circular manner, with no need for extra stitches or decreases. You can adjust how wide it is by adding more or fewer stitches when you begin. When you’re almost done, you shape the waistband by making the upper edge even and adding a few more rounds using single crochet stitches. To change the waist size, you fold the waistband and slip in an elastic band.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Wavy Skirt Pattern is available in 8 sizes, from S up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with a 90 cm hip circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: S (M, L, XL) ( 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL);
All the measurements use as reference Standard Body Measurements by ASTM International.

The Wavy Skirt Pattern is easily adjustable, and you will find indications on how to customize the pattern so that the skirt fits your Body.

Final Measurements of the Wavy Skirt
Waist circ a: 63 cm (71, 78, 86) (94, 102, 109, 117)
Hips circ. b: 100 cm (110, 120, 130) (140, 150, 160, 170)
Length d: 75 cm (75, 75, 75) (75, 75, 75, 75)
*The measurements for the waist are taken without stretching; as a reference, the model’s actual waist circ. is 73 cm, and the skirt ribbing is smaller by about 10 cm;

YARN
For the Wavy Skirt, I used: DMC Eco Vita. Recycled Cotton Yarn; Yarn composition: 80% cotton, 20% other fibers; Each ball has 100 grams and is approximately 250 meters (246 yards)
Color 111 – Beige, Color 008 Petrol Blue, Color 018 – khaki, Color 138 – Pistachio

For each size, you will approximately need:
Color A (Beige): 300 (330, 360, 390) (420, 450, 480, 510) meters
Color B (Petrol Blue): 350 (390, 420, 460) (490, 530, 560, 600) meters
Color C (Khaki): 200 (220, 240, 260) (280, 300, 320, 340) meters
Color D (Pistachio): 190 (210, 220, 240) (260, 280, 300, 310) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
tr – triple crochet
dtr – double triple crochet
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – round
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 5mm crochet hook in the Ripple stitch pattern
16sts (1 Patt Rep) = 10 cm
6 rows = 9cm

For a comprehensive guide , refer to the PDF version of this pattern, which includes a detailed stitch chart for every step. The PDF is available for purchase at the provided links below:

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

RIPPLE STITCH PATTERN

The main stitch pattern of the Wavy Skirt features Ripple Stitch This particular pattern has 2 rounds repeat and necessitates a stitch count that’s a multiple of 16.

During the first repeated round, you’ll use triple crochet stitches. With decreases (skipping stitches) and increases (working multiple stitches in a single stitch), you’ll create peaks and valleys that give the delightful ripple effect.

The second round showcases half double crochet stitches,in each stitch around

Given the pattern’s requirement for a stitch count divisible by 16, any modifications you consider will need to adhere to this multiple.

CHANGING COLORS

In this specific design, we’ll be using four different colors, switching to a new color after completing each round. To make this color change, simply use a slip stitch to close the round with the next color – no need to cut the yarn. The remaining colors will be carried vertically as you work.

WORKING IN THE ROUND

To work the pattern in the round, remember to close each round with a slip stitch. Work only on the right side of your project. Due to how the stitches are positioned, your work might naturally shift to the right. If you prefer to prevent this, simply turn your work after completing each round.

For a comprehensive guide , refer to the PDF version of this pattern, which includes a detailed stitch chart for every step. The PDF is available for purchase at the provided links below:

• By Katerina Shop
• Ravelry
• Etsy
• Lovecrafts

HOW TO ADJUST THE WAVY SKIRT PATTERN SO IT CAN FIT YOUR BODY

Step 1: Measure the most noticeable part of your body, whether it’s your waist or hips. Then, take these measurements as your base. Add a few extra centimeters based on how you want the garment to fit.

Step 2: Create a small sample piece using the ripple crochet stitch, similar to the one you’ll use in your project. This will give you a clearer idea of how your final fabric will look. You can make this sample flat.

Step 3: Using your gauge swatch as a guide, figure out the number of stitches you’ll need to achieve your desired measurements.

Step 4: Round off the stitch count to the nearest multiple of 16.

If your initial chain turns out larger than your waist measurement, don’t worry – you can adjust this with the elastic band later on.

PATTERN NOTES

– read carefully the STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES section, where you will find the information about how to close and start the rounds and how to change colors;
– use stitch markers if you need to make it easier to know where you need the make the increases (peack of the ripple)
– each triple crochet round will start with 4ch; 4ch will count as a first triple crochet
– each half double crochet round will start with 2ch; 2ch wil count as first half double crochet;
– If you like to use the invisible slip stitch to finish a round, you can follow these steps: take the hook out of the loop, insert the hook from the back to the front into the fourth or second chain stitch (depending on whether it’s a triple crochet or a half double crochet round), then put the hook through the working loop, and finally pull the loop through the chain stitch.

INSTRUCTIONS

The numbers are written in the pattern below, S (M, L, XL) ( 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL), unless the numbers apply for all the sizes.

Using color Khaki
Start: ch 160 (176, 192, 208) (224, 240, 256, 272); ss to make a circle;
R1: 2ch, 1hdc in each around; ss to close the round; change to Petrol Blue
R2: 4ch, (skip 1st, 1tr in next) x 3 times, 1tr in next st, *7tr in next st, 1tr in next st, (1tr in next st, skip 1st) x 6 times, 1tr in next 2sts* ; Rep from * to * until you have 8sts left; continue with 7tr in next st, 1tr in next st, (1tr in next, skip 1st) X 3 times; ss into the 4th ch. change to Pistachio

R3: 2ch, 1hdc in each st around; change to Beige;
R4: Rep. R2

Rep. R2 and R3 until you have the desired length, or until you have in total 47 rounds.

WAISTBAND

The first step when start making the Waistband is to make an even edge. We will alternate single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, triple crochet, and double triple crochet;
We will work on the other side of the foundation ch;
Look for the first st;
Use the color Beige;

R1: Rejoin yarn into the first st; (as it is upside down, your first st needs to be a peak.
1ch, *1sc in next 3sts, 1hdc in next 2sts, 1dc in next 2sts, 1tr in next 2sts, 1dtr in next st, 1tr in next 2sts, 1dc in next 2sts, 1hdc in next 2sts*; rep. form * to * to the end of the round;

Change to color Pistachio
R2, R3 – 1sc in each st around; Change to Petrol Blue
R4 – R10: 1sc in each st around

Prepare the elastic band;
I recommend opting for a wider elastic band as it will provide better support for the weight of the skirt.
Ensure that the elastic band’s length is slightly shorter than your waist measurement, considering its stretchiness.
To offer a point of reference, the model’s waist measures 73cm, and the elastic band length used is 56 cm. Your comfort is key.
Securely sew the ends of the elastic band together.

Fold the waistband (counting only sc rounds) in half and gently slip the elastic band into this fold.
use slip stitches to connect the waistband’s edge, aligning them with the horizontal bars of the single crochet stitches from the first round. Refer to the Video Tutorial for visual guidance

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

And done! This chic crocheted skirt is ready to be worn.

You can watch a step-by-step video tutorial here