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Bykaterina

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The Grey Dune Top was born from my desire of knitting more. I had some yarn left from some projects and even if it wasn’t designed for clothes, I said I will try.

I was experimenting with some lace knitting patterns and  I was so happy with the result that of course, I had to show it to the world 😁 .  What happened, was that you liked this top so much and asked for a pattern and I can’t be happier to share with you how to knit this super simple Grey Dune Top. 

I don’t know what to say more about it, so I think I will jump into the process πŸ˜…

MATERIALS

β€’ Yarn: Medium Weight Yarn (Size 4)

β€’ Knitting Needles
o 8 mm needles (for ribbing)
o 10 mm needles (for the rest of the top)
you can use circular or straight needles, but for the neckline ribbing you will need 60cm circular needles or double-pointed needles to work in the round
β€’ yarn needle for weaving in ends
β€’ Stitch markers
β€’ Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Grey Dune Top has a classic drop-shoulder design with an oversized fit with a positive ease of about 23 cm around the bust circumference.

The top has a panels construction (back, panel, and front panel).

After assembling front and back panels shoulders and sides up to the armhole we will pick up the sts around the neckline and work the ribbing.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Grey Dune Top Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with an 86 cm Bust circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL); the US sizes 0/2 (4/6, 8/10, 12/14) (14/16W, 18/20W, 22/24W, 26/28W, 30/32W)
All the measurements use as reference Standard Body Measurements by ASTM International.

Neckline a: 20.5 cm (21, 21.5, 22.5) (23, 23.5, 24.5, 25.5, 26.5)
Bust width b: 64 cm (67, 70, 73) (77, 82, 87, 92, 97)
Armhole depth c: 17 cm (18, 18.5, 20) (21, 21.5, 22.5, 23.5, 25)
Length d: 45 cm (45, 45, 45) (46, 46, 47, 47, 47)

How much yarn do you need?

I used for my sample Recycled cotton yarn, Ekos by Katia. Each ball has 50 grams and 55 meters.

For each size you will need:
7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10, 11) 0r 370 m (380, 400, 420) (450, 480, 520, 550, 580)

ABBREVIATIONS

k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit two together
yo – yarn over
s – slip purlwise
R – rows
* – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 10 mm needles in mesh stitch pattern
9.5 sts = 10 cm
15.5 rows = 10cm

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The entire top is worked in a mesh stitch pattern with a knit 1, purl 1 ribbing.
The ribbing is worked with smaller size needles.

 

PATTERN NOTES

The stitch pattern requires a multiple of 2sts.
always slip purlwise the first st in a row and finish the row with a knit stitch.
an adjust the width by casting on as many sts as you want to get to the desired width.
You can make the top longer by working more rows in length.
Use any method you like for casting on and binding off.

INSTRUCTIONS

FRONT PANEL
Use 8mm needles
Cast on 62 (64, 68, 70) (74, 78, 84, 88, 94)
R1: k1, p1 until the end of the row.
R2-R7: rep. R1
Change to 10 mm needles
R8(ws): p all sts.
R9(rs): s, k1, *yo, k2tog. * Rep. until you have 2sts left, k2.
R10(ws): p all sts
R11(rs): s1, k1, *k2tog, yo. *Rep. until you have 2sts left, k2.

Rep. R8 – R11 until you have in total:
60 (60, 60, 60) (64, 64, 64, 64, 64) rows.
Next, we will work 4 more rows only into the shoulder sts.
Adjust the neckline width as desired or follow the numbers below:
Left Shoulder
Rep. the same st pattern, but work only the first 20 (21, 22, 23) (25, 26, 29, 30, 33) sts for 4 rows.
Bind off.
Right Shoulder
Bind off neckline sts: 22 (22, 24, 24) (24, 26, 26, 28, 28) sts. You should have left the same number of sts as for the left shoulder.
Rep. the stitch pattern for the next 4 rows. Bind off.

BACK PANEL
Rep. the same pattern as for the Front panel without shoulders section. Work a simple rectangle of 64 (64, 64, 64) (68, 68, 68, 68, 68) rows

ASSEMBLING FRONT AND BACK PANEL

Step 1: lay both pieces flat, facing the right side, shoulder next to shoulder, and stitch the shoulder sts.
Step 2: use stitch markers to mark the armholes: 26 (28, 29, 31) (33, 33, 35, 36, 39); stitch the side up to the armholes.

 

NECKLINE RIBBING
Using 8 mm circular needles (60 cm) or DPN needles, pick up the neckline sts.
Work in the round.
R1: k1, p1 until the end of the row.
R2-R7: rep. R1

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

 

The idea of this Dune Top Design came into my mind when I was working on a knitting top (which pattern by the way I will publish hopefully next week). But it wasn’t as easy as it seemed. I had a few key points in mind: to be easy, fast, and to use a mesh stitch pattern.

At first, I wanted to use the same cotton yarn as I used for the knitting top, which is a size 5, but it was thicker than I wanted and I ended up searching for some yarn. When finally found the yarn I needed to find the stitch pattern, which wasn’t easy either. I think I tried 4 different lace patterns until I stop with the one that I used.

Anyway, after all, I am happy with the result and I am happy that I can share it with you.

So. let’s move forward and see what you will need and how to make this top.

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

MATERIALS

β€’ Yarn: Size 4, Aran or Heavy Worsted Medium Weight yarn

β€’ Crochet Hook:
o 4.5 mm crochet hook (for the bottom, neckline and sleeves edging)
o 6 mm crochet hook 
β€’ yarn needle for weaving in ends
β€’ Stitch markers
β€’ Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Dune Top is worked in a Lace Stitch Pattern with solid ribbing at the hem, neckline, and cuffs.
This top has a drop-shoulder design with a positive ease of 16 cm around the bust circumference.
The construction is out of 2 identical pieces, front and back panels, joined at the shoulders and sides. The sleeves are worked after joining the front and back panel, right into the armholes.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Dune Top Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with an 86 cm Bust circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL); US sizes 0/2 (4/6, 8/10, 12/14) (14/16W, 18/20W, 22/24W, 26/28W, 30/32W)
All the measurements use as reference Standard Body Measurements by ASTM International.

Final Measuremnts of the Dune Top
*Neckline width a: 22 cm (25, 22, 25) (22, 25, 29, 29, 31)
Bust width b: 49 cm (52, 56, 59), (73, 78, 83, 88)
Armhole depth c: 17 cm (17, 17, 19), (21, 21, 21, 23, 25)
**Sleeve length. d: 38 cm (38, 38, 38), (38, 38, 38, 38, 39)
Length e: 55.5 cm (55.5, 55.5, 55.5), (56.5, 56.5, 57.5, 57.5, 57.5)
* neckline is measured to match the stitch pattern and that’s why it’s smaller on some bigger sizes;
** sleeves length is not proportional with plus sizes as the measurements don’t change in length, but in width

How much yarn do you need?
For the Dune Top I used:
The Cotton by We Are Knitters; Yarn composition: 100% Pima Cotton; Each ball has 100 grams and is approximately 212 meters.

For each size you will need:

4 (4, 4, 4), (5, 5, 5, 5, 6) balls or 690 (720, 750, 810), (880, 910, 960, 1060,1130) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
scblo – single crochet in back loop only
dc – double crochet
dc2-Group – 2 dc togethger
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rows
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 6.00mm crochet hook in the main stitch pattern

15sts (3 pattern repeats) = 10 cm
5 rows = 10 cm

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

dc2-Group: yarn over insert the hook into the indicated st, yarn over pull out a loop, yarn over and pass it through the first 2loops on your hook; yarn over insert the hook into the same st, yarn over pull out a loop, yarn over and pass it through the first 2loops on your hook, yarn over and pass it through all the loops on the hook;

The stitch pattern requires a multiple of 5+3 sts and is a one-row repeat.
R1: in the foundation ch.
5ch, 1 dc2-Group into the 6th st from the hook, *3ch, skip 4sts, (1sc, 3ch, 1dc2-group) in the next st. *rep until you have 3sts left, skip 2sts, 1dc in next st; ch5 and turn
R2: 1dc2-group into the first dc2group, *3ch, (1sc, 3ch, 1dc2group) into the next dc2-group). *rep. until the end of the row, 1dc in the third chain.
Rep. R2 until you complete the desired length.

HOW TO ADJUST THE PATTERN

Step 1: Measure your body parts and add desired ease or use a sample to get the desired measurements (use the MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES as a reference to know what body parts you need to measure)
Step 2: make a gauge swatch and see how many sts you have in 10/10 cm square.

Step 3: Calculate the number of sts and rows you will need to get to the measurements at step 1
Step 4: Follow the instructions in the pattern
to finish the top.

PATTERN NOTES

  • work front and back panel flat; turn after each row.
  • ch5 at the end of each row and turn;
  • work the sleeves after assembling front and back panels into the armhole;
  • work the sleeves in the round, but turn after each round.
  • front and back panels are worked identically.
  • the pattern is written in US terms.
  • for this sample, I used crochet techniques for assembling, but the parts can also be sewn together using a yarn needle.

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

INSTRUCTIONS

FRONT AND BACK PANEL
RIBBING – use the 4.5 mm crochet hook
Start: ch7, turn
R1: start in the second st, 1sc in each st until the end of the row, 1ch and turn.
R2: 1sc in the first st, 1scblo in each of the following sts except the last one, 1sc in the last st. 1ch and turn.
Rep. R2 until you have 73 (78, 83, 88), (93, 98, 103, 113, 118) rows.
FRONT and BACK PANEL TRUNK – use the 6. mm crochet hook
R1:1ch and work across the ribbing rows; work 1sc in each side row.
R2: 5ch, 1 dc2-Group into the 6th st from the hook, *3ch, skip 4sts, (1sc, 3ch, 1dc2-group) in the next st. *rep until you have 3sts left, skip 2sts, 1dc in next st; ch5 and turn

R3: 1dc2-group into the first dc2group,
*3ch, (1sc, 3ch, 1dc2group) into the next dc2-group). *rep. until the end of the row, 1dc in the third chain.
Rep. R2 until you have in total: 25 (25, 25, 25) (26, 26, 27, 27, 27) rows.

Next, work 2 more rounds just into the shoulder sts.
*The neckline sts are not proportional with the plus sizes, to keep an even number of pattern repeats for each shoulder without increasing the width of the panel.
Adjust the neckline width if you want the neckline base to be larger or narrower.

Use stitch markers to mark the shoulders and the neckline sts.
1st in the instructions below = (1sc, 3ch, 1dc2-Group)

XS – shoulders 4sts, neckline 6sts
S – Shoulders 4sts, neckline 7sts
M – shoulders 5sts, neckline 6sts
L – shoulders 5sts, neckline 7sts
XL – shoulders 6sts, neckline 6sts
2XL – shoulders 6sts, neckline 7sts
3XL – shoulders 6sts, neckline 8sts
4XL – shoulders 7sts, neckline 8sts
5XL – shoulders 7sts, neckline 9sts

Start working on the first shoulder from where your yarn is. Work only into the shoulder sts and finish the row with a dc into the next 3ch.
Work a second row and fasten off.

Start the second shoulder into the ch3 before the first st. (not into the edge)

ASSEMBLING FRONT AND BACK PANEL

Use for assembling the crochet technique below or stitch the pieces together using a yarn needle.
Step 1: Lay both panels shoulder next to shoulder and rejoin yarn into the ch3 at the bottom, of the right side
Step 2: 5ch, slip st into the next dc2-group of the left side, 1dc2-group, slip st into the next dc2-group of the right side, *3ch, slip st into the next dc2-group of the left side, (1sc, 3ch, 1dc2-group) in the same st, slip st into the dc2-group of the right side.
Rep. from * until you complete all the stitches on the shoulders. You can finish with a dc into the last dc of the left side and fasten off.
Rep. the same for the second shoulder.

SIDE SEAMING FRONT AND BACK PANEL

The same as shoulder seaming, you can use a yarn needle to join the pieces together.
Before starting seaming use stitch markers to mark the armholes. Make sure you mark the same number of rows on each panel.
Armhole rows: 9 (9, 9, 10), (11, 11, 11, 12, 13)
For the technique using the crochet hook, follow the steps below. we will join the side using the ch3 and dc on the edges.
Step1: lay the pieces side to side and rejoin yarn into the bottom bump of the dc or the first ch of ch3 and slip st of the right side
Step 2: 1ch, slip st into the first ch of the ch3, or the bump of dc, of the left side
Step 3: 1ch, sl st into the top of dc, or top st of ch3, of the right side, 1ch, 1 sl st into the top ch of ch3 or top of dc, of the left side,
Rep. until tou complete all sts.

SLEEVES

  • Work the sleeves in the round, but turn after each round.
  • Rejoin yarn at the armpit
  • we will work into the side rows of the front and back panel and each side row will represent 2sts for our st pattern.
  • According to your size, the first side row can be a dc stitch as in the chart below or can be a ch3.

R1: rejoin at the armpit
5ch, 1dc2-group into the bottom of first side row (can be the first ch of ch3 or bottom bump of a dc), *3ch, skip 2side rows, (1sc, 3ch, 1dc2-group into the bottom of next side row.
*rep. until you get at the end of the round. Close the round with a sl st into the third ch. 5ch and turn.

Note: after passing the shoulder seam you will have the sts in the mirror and you will have to work into the top of the dc or into the top st of the ch3

R2: 1dc2-group into the first dc2-group,
*3ch, (1sc, 3ch, 1dc2group) into the next dc2-group). *rep. until the end of the round, sl st into the third ch, ch5, and turn.
Rep R2 until you have the desired length or until you have in total:
18 (18, 18, 18, 18, 18, 18, 18, 19) rounds.

The last 2 rounds of the sleeves will be in single crochet stitches as a base for the RIBBING.
Next round: 1ch, 1sc, 1sc in next dc2-group, *3sc in next 3ch-sp, 1sc in the top of next ch3 (the one before the dc2-group), 1sc in the next dc2-group. *rep. until the end of the round

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

Last round decrease round:
*1sc in next 2sts, sc2tog, 1sc in next st, sc2tog, 1sc in next st, sc2tog. *Rep. until the end of the round.

Note: the decrease pattern might not match perfectly the number of sts of the sleeve. Follow the decrease pattern until you finish all the sts.
If you want the cuff to be narrower you can work one more round and make a few more decreases.

CUFFS and NECKLINE RIBBING
Use the 4.5 mm crochet hook

Follow the same pattern to work the cuffs and neckline ribbing.

R1: ch7, starting in the second st and sc in each st, 1sl st into the next 2sts of the edge.

R2: 1scblo in each st, except the last one, 1sc in the last st; 1ch and turn
R3: 1sc in the first st, 1scblo in the each of the next sts, sl st into the next 2sts of the edge.
Rep. R2 and R3 until you complete all sts.
Join the edges using sl stitches.

NECKLINE RIBBING

Before working the neckline Ribbing work first a foundation round in single crochet.
Repeat the same pattern as the first round in single crochet of the sleeves.
See the pattern above.
When working into the side rows, work 2sts/row.
After finishing the base round, repeat the RIBBING pattern above.

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

And done! I can wait to see yours! 

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

I am so excited to share with you the Caryopsis Sweater Pattern. I worked a lot on this new design and learned many things! 

So I hope you will give this pattern a try, and I will be more than happy to hear from you: your thoughts about the design or the pattern.

But let’s talk a bit about the name, and then I promise we will jump right into the pattern.

The stitch pattern I used, a variation of a V-stitch (you will find more details in the pattern), gave the idea of wheat, but “wheat” wasn’t a great name. So, I started to research a bit about wheat! Sometimes, being a crochet designer means learning some other stuff. πŸ™‚ 

What did I find out? Well, I found out that botanically the wheat fruit, those tiny seeds that are transformed in flour and then into everything wheat-related, are “caryopsis fruits.” Ta, da! “Caryopsis” sounds like an excellent name for my new sweater. And here I am sharing with you the CARYOPSIS Sweater Pattern.

And as I said, we would jump right into the pattern because it is a long one πŸ™‚

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts, photos, and more information about how you can adjust this pattern to your measurements. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

 

MATERIALS

β€’ Yarn: Size 2, Sport Weight yarn or size 3, DK weight yarn

β€’ Crochet Hook:
o 4.5 mm crochet hook (for the bottom, neckline and sleeves edging)
o 5.5 mm crochet hook 
β€’ yarn needle for weave in ends
β€’ Stitch markers
β€’ Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Caryopsis Sweater is a top-down sweater using a technique more used in knitting. I designed this sweater using 2 different yarn weights, with long and short sleeves.

First, you will work the neckline ribbing (Section 1) and then a few short rows to better fit (Section 2). Then you work the raglan, increasing until getting to the desired bust width. (Section 3)

This section of the raglan doesn’t include the sleeves’. The armhole depth is worked into the next section (Section 4) in two separated parts, the back and front panel.
On the next step, we join back and front panels at the armpit and continue working in the round for the trunk section of the sweater.
The sleeves are worked into the armhole.
Below you can find a diagram with the top part, from the neckline up to the armpit.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Caryopsis Sweater Pattern is available in 8 sizes, from small to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall and wears a size Small.

Yellow Sweater (DK Weight)
Neckline width a: 25 cm (25, 25, 28, 28, 30, 30, 30)
Bust width b: 53 cm (58, 63, 68, 73, 78, 83, 88)
*Armhole depth c: 12 cm (14, 15, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20)
Sleeve circ. d: 38 cm (43, 48, 58, 58, 65, 65, 65)
Sleeve length e: 40 cm (40, 42, 42, 43, 43, 44, 44)
Length f: 47 cm (50, 53, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66)
*does not includde the shoulder sts (raglan lines)

Blue Sweater (Sport weight)
Neckline width a: 25 cm (25, 25, 28, 28, 30, 30, 30)
Bust width b: 53 cm (58, 62, 69, 73, 76, 80, 84)
*Armhole depth c: 10 cm (12, 13, 16, 16, 18, 18, 18)
Sleeve circ. d: 34 cm (39, 43, 52, 52, 59, 59, 59)
Length e: 44 cm (47, 50, 54, 55, 58, 59, 61)

*Does not include the shoulder sts (raglan lines)

How much yarn do you need?
For the Caryopsis Sweater, I used:
Yellow Sweater DK Weight): *Concept Lagom, by Katia Yarns; Yarn composition: 47% Merino, 40% Cotton, 13% Nylon. Each ball has 50 grams and approximately 200 meters. *You will find this yarn listed as Worsted, but I fund it closer to a DK thickness.
Blue Sweater (Sport Weight): Hobbii Twister Solid; Yarn composition 55% cotton and 45% acrylic. 1 cake has 100 grams and is approximately 400 meters.
For each size, you will need:

Yellow Sweater: 7 (8, 9, 11, 11, 13, 13, 14) balls or 1300 (1490, 1720, 2040, 2180, 2420, 2580, 2730) meters

Blue Sweater: 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6) cakes or 960 (1130, 1280, 1540, 1660, 1820, 1950, 2110 ) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
scblo – single crochet in back loop only
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet
ss – slip stitch
V-st – 1dc, 2ch, 1dc in the same st
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rows
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using a 5.5 mm crochet hook in the main stitch pattern (V-st variation)
Sport weight yarn
4,5 V-st = 10 cm
14 rows = 10 cm

DK Weight yarn
4 V-st = 10 cm
12 rows = 10 cm

Caryopsis Sweater. Free Crochet Pattern

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts, photos, and more information about how you can adjust this pattern to your measurements. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

Short rows
We will work 5 short rows to raise the back and lower the front for a better fit of the sweater. These short rows will be worked in single crochet stitches, right after the ribbing.
The idea is to work more rows on the back and gradually work stitches from the front panel. More to be explained in the pattern.
V stitch (V-st)
For this particular design: V-st = (1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in the same st. Work the next round’s V-sts into the sts one row/round below.

PATTERN NOTES

  • This design has 4 main parts: Yoke, Armholes, trunk, and sleeves.
    We will divide the yoke part into different sections to better understand the construction; Section 1 – Neckline Ribbing, Section 2 – Short Rows, Section 3 Raglan.
    Section 1 – Ribbing,
  • work the ribbing using the smaller crochet hook size 4.5 mm.
  • Work the piece flat; turn after each row
  • work 1ch at the end of each row.
  • Work through both loops, the first and the last stitch in a row.
  • After completing the length, join the ends using slip stitches.
  • For this particular design, the ribbing is then folded and worked one round through the stitches of both edges.
    Section 2 – Short rows
  • Work this section using the 5.5 mm crochet hook
  • Work the piece flat, turn after each short row.
  • before start working on this section, you will need to mark the raglan lines and then increase before and after the raglan lines (more details in the pattern)
  • at the end of the row, work 3 more stitches from the front panel
  • working the first extra stitch: insert the hook into the side edge of the previous stitch, yarn over and pull out a loop, then insert the hook into the next st (first extra st), yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pass it through all loops on your hook.
  • On the last row, work all the stitches and join with the first sc with a slip st; on the last row, don’t work the raglan lines increases.
    Section 3 – The raglan
  • work this section using the V-st
  • This section is worked in the round, only on the right side
  • Rejoin yarn into the first st, after the raglan line, and start the work from there.
  • Start each round into the first 2ch sp of the first V-st
  • Start each round into the first 2ch sp of the first V-st
  • First V-st in a round will be: 4ch and 1dc into the same st/2ch-sp
  • Close each round with a slip stitch into the second chain.

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts, photos, and more information about how you can adjust this pattern to your measurements. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:

INSTRUCTIONS

The pattern is written for sizes from Small up to 5XL. Numbers are written between brackets for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL. If not, the pattern applies to all sizes.
The pattern is written for sport weight and DK weight yarn, and you will find the numbers written separately. If not, it means that the patter applies for both yarn weights.

PART 1: YOKE (UP TO THE ARMPIT)
Section 1: NECKLINE RIBBING
Using the 4.5mm crochet hook ch15
R1: start in the second st from the hook
1sc in each st until the end of the row. 1ch and turn.
R2: 1sc, 1scblo in next 13 sts, 1sc in last st, 1ch and turn
Rep. R2 until you will have in total:
DK Weight: 62 (62, 62, 68, 68, 74, 74, 74) rows
Sport weight: 68 (68, 68, 74, 74, 80, 80, 80) rows.
Join the ends of the ribbing using slip stitches.

Fold the ribbing and make sure the edges of the rows are perfectly aligned.

Start from where your yarn is. Work 1ch and then 1sc into each side row, through both side edges, until you complete the round.

At the end of this round you should have

DK Weight: 62 (62, 62, 70, 70, 74, 74, 74) sts
Sport weight: 68 (68, 68, 74, 74, 80, 80, 80) sts.

Next, we will use stitch markers to mark the raglan lines; from where your yarn is, place 1st marker into the same st as the working loop; then count:
DK Weight:4sts, place st marker in next st, 25 (25, 25, 29, 29, 31, 31, 31) sts, place a stitch marker in next st, 4sts, place a stitch marker in next st 25 (25, 25, 29, 29, 31, 31, 31) sts.
Sport Weight:4sts, place st marker in next st, 28 (28, 28, 31, 31, 34, 34, 34) sts, place a stitch marker in next st, 4sts, place a stitch marker in next st 28 (28, 28, 31, 31, 34, 34, 34) sts.

Section 2: SHORT ROWS
Work with the 5.5 mm crochet hook
Turn your work and start working into the first marked stitch.
Follow either the stitch chart or the written pattern.

DK weight
R1 (WS): 2sc (place the st marker into the second st), 1sc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker in first st), 1sc in next 25 (25, 25, 28, 28, 31, 31, 31) sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker in the second st), 1sc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker in the first st), 1sc in next 3sts. 1ch and turn.
R2 (RS): 1sc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place the st marker into the second st), 1fpdc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place the st marker into the first st), 1sc in next 27 (27, 27, 30, 30, 33, 33, 33) sts, 2sc in next st (place the st marker into the second st) 1fpdc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker into the first st) 1sc in next *4sts (the last 3sts are from the foundation round; see the PATTERN NOTES for working the extra sts), 1ch and turn.
R3 (WS): 1sc in next 5sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker in the second sc), 1sc into the next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker into the first st), 1sc in next 29 (29, 29, 32, 32, 35, 35, 35) sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker into the second st), 1sc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker in the first st) 1sc in the next 8sts. 1ch and turn.
R4 (RS): 1sc in next 9sts, 2sc in next st (place the st marker into the second st) 1fpdc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place the st marker into the first st), 1sc in next 31 (31, 31, 34, 34, 37, 37, 37) sts, 2sc in next st (place the st marker into the second st) 1fpdc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker into the first st) 1sc in next 9sts. 1ch and turn.
R5 (WS): 1sc in next 10sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker in the second sc), 1sc into the next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker into the first st), 1sc in next 33 (33, 33, 36, 36, 39, 39, 39) sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker into the second st), 1sc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker in the first st) 1sc in the next 13sts. 1ch and turn.
R6: 1sc in next 15sts, 1fpdc in next 4 sts, 1sc in next 37 (37, 37, 40, 40, 43, 43, 43)sts, 1fpdc in next 4sts, 1sc in next 37 (37, 37, 40, 40, 43, 43, 43)sts . Close the round with slip stitch in first sc.

Sport weight
R1 (WS): 2sc (place the st marker into the second st), 1sc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker in first st), 1sc in next 28 (28, 28, 31, 31, 34, 34, 34) sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker in the second st), 1sc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker in the first st), 1sc in next 3sts. 1ch and turn.
R2 (RS): 1sc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place the st marker into the second st) 1fpdc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place the st marker into the first st), 1sc in next 30 (30, 30, 33, 33, 36, 36, 36) sts, 2sc in next st (place the st marker into the second st) 1fpdc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker into the first st) 1sc in next *4sts (the last 3sts are from the foundation round; see the PATTERN NOTES for working the extra sts), 1ch and turn.
R3 (WS): 1sc in next 5sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker in the second sc), 1sc into the next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker into the first st), 1sc in next 32 (32, 32, 35, 35, 38, 38, 38) sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker into the second st), 1sc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker in the first st) 1sc in the next 8sts. 1ch and turn.
R4 (RS): 1sc in next 9sts, 2sc in next st (place the st marker into the second st) 1fpdc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place the st marker into the first st), 1sc in next 34 (34, 34, 37, 37, 40, 40, 40) sts, 2sc in next st (place the st marker into the second st) 1fpdc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker into the first st) 1sc in next 9sts. 1ch and turn.
R5 (WS): 1sc in next 10sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker in the second sc), 1sc into the next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker into the first st), 1sc in next 36 (36, 36, 39, 39, 42, 42, 42) sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker into the second st), 1sc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st (place st marker in the first st) 1sc in the next 13sts. 1ch and turn.
R6: 1sc in next 15sts, 1fpdc in next 4 sts, 1sc in next 40 (40, 40, 43, 43, 46, 46, 46)sts, 1fpdc in next 4sts, 1sc in next 40 (40, 40, 43, 43, 46, 46, 46)sts . Close the round with slip stitch in first sc

  • The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts, photos, and more information about how you can adjust this pattern to your measurements. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
  • Section 3: Raglan
    After finishing the SHORT ROWS section, you need to cut the yarn and rejoin the yarn into the first st of the back panel.
  • you can work the first round using half double crochet stitches instead of double crochet stitches for the V-st;
    work the sts at round 2,  into the sts one row below (same single crochet sts as the one in which you worked the sts at round 1.
  • Starting with round 3 and further, work the V-st under the 2ch of the V-sts one round below.
    Increase: (1dc, 2ch, 1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in the same stitch or 2ch-sp, 1 rows below
  • Increase at every other row (the uneven number)
  • On the round after an increase round, work 2V-sts into each 2ch-sp of the increase.

DK weight
R1:(4ch, 1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in the same st, skip 2sts, *(1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in the next st, skip 2sts. *rep. 10 (10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in next st, 1fpdc in next 4sts, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in next st, skip 2sts, *(1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in the next st, skip 2sts. *rep. 10 (10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12) times, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in next st, 1fpdc in next 4sts, ss into the second ch. Slip stitch into the first 2ch-sp.

Sport weight
R1:(4ch, 1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in the same st, skip 2sts, *(1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in the next st, skip 2sts. *rep. 11 (11 11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 13) times, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in next st, 1fpdc in next 4sts, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in next st, skip 2sts, *(1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in the next st, skip 2sts. *rep. 11 (11 11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 13) times, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc, 2ch, 1dc) in next st, 1fpdc in next 4sts, ss into the second ch. Slip stitch into the first 2ch-sp.

Note: Starting with round 2, you can follow the same pattern for both yarn weights. Remember that you need to have 2 more V-st on the back and front panels (4V-sts in total) at every 2 rounds.
R2: (4ch, 1dc) into the first 2ch-sp, *1V-st into each 2ch-sp until the next raglan line, 1fpdc into the next 4sts. *rep until the end of the round, ss into the second ch. Slip stitch into the first 2ch-sp.
R3: (4ch, 1dc, 2ch, 1dc) into the first 2ch-sp, *1V-st into each 2ch-sp, until the last one before the raglan line, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc, 2ch, 1dc) into the next 2ch-sp, 1fpdc into the next 4sts*, (1dc, 2ch, 1dc, 2ch, 1dc) into the next 2ch-sp. Rep from * to * one more time, ss into the second ch. Slip stitch into the first 2ch-sp.
R4: Rep. R2
Rep R3 and R4 until you have in total:
DK weight: 10 (12, 14, 16, 18, 18, 20, 22) rows
Sport weight: 12 (14, 16, 18, 20, 20, 22, 24) rows

  • Section 4: ARMHOLES
    Notes:
  • Work the armholes separately for the back and front panel;
  • Both pieces are worked flat; turn after each row.
  • work 2ch at the end of each row; finish the row with 1dc into the second st
  • the first row will start into the first V-st after the raglan line and will end into the last V-st before the raglan line (considering one single side, back or front)
  • From where your yarn is, start working with the back panel.
  • This section has the same number of rows for both yarn weights. If needed, you can adjust that; see the HOW TO ADJUST THE PATTERN section.

Back Panel
R1: 2ch, 1V-st into each 2ch-sp except the last one, 1dc into the last V-st. 2ch and turn.
Rep. R1 until you have in total 14 (16, 18, 22, 22, 24, 24, 24) rows
Front Panel
Rejoin yarn into the first 2ch-sp after the second raglan line and start the row.
Rep. the same pattern as for the back panel

PART 2: BODY

  • Notes
  • Work the body part in the round;
  • In the first round, join the front and back panels at the armpit
  • first armpit joint: yarn over and insert the hook into the last st of the front pane and then into the first st of the back panel, yarn over and pass it through first 2sts; then finish the dc as usual; then finish the V-st: 2ch and 1dc into the same st
  • the last armpit joint: yarn over, insert the hook into the last st of the back panel and then into the base of the 2ch at the beginning of the round; yarn over and pass it through the first 2sts, then finish the dc stitch as usual. Close the round with 2ch and an ss into the second ch.

R1 joining round
2ch, 1V-st into each 2ch-sp, until the last st of the front panel, join (see the explanations above), and 1V-st into each2ch-sp until the end of the back panel’s last st, ss into the second chain. Slip stitch into the first 2ch-sp.
R2: (4ch, 1dc) into the first 2ch-sp, 1V-st into each 2ch-sp, until the end of the round. Close the round with ss into the second chain.
Rep. R2 until you have in total:
DK weight: 25 rounds or until you get to the desired length.
Sport weight: 30 rounds or until you get to the desired end.
Last round before ribbing:
(2ch, 2dc) into the first 2ch-sp, 3dc in each 2ch-sp, until the end of the round. Ss into the second ch.
After finishing the body, move to the RIBBING section.

PART 3: SLEEVES
Notes:

  • Skip this part if you want to make a short sleeves version; follow the pattern for the folded version ribbing.
  • Work the sleeves into the armhole
  • work in the round; close each round with an ss into the second chain and then ss into the first 2ch-sp to start the next round.
  • Rejoin yarn at the armpit
    when working into the side rows edge, work 1V-st into one side row and skip the next one
  • work the raglan line sts the same as for the raglan section (fpdc sts) for the entire length (more details in the pattern)
  • into the space before and after the raglan line work a V-st
  • Work second round, into the same sts/spaces as the first round

R1: (4ch, 1dc) into the same st/space, skip 1side-row, *1Vs-st in next side-row, skip next side row.*rep. until the raglan line, 1fpdc into next 4sts, *1Vs-st in next side-row, skip next side row. *rep. until the end of the round. Close the round with an ss into the second ch; ss to the first 2ch sp.
R2: (4ch, 1dc) in the same 2ch-sp, 1V-st into each 2ch-sp, until the end of the round. Close the round with an ss into the second chain. Slip stitch to the first 2ch-sp.
Rep. R2 until you have in total:
DK weight: 40 (40, 43, 43, 44, 44, 45, 45) rounds
Sport weight: 48 (48, 50, 50, 52, 52, 53, 53) round
Next round: (2ch, 2dc) into the first 2ch-sp, 3dc in each 2ch-sp, until the end of the round. Ss into the second ch.

Last 3 rounds before cuff ribbing (optional):
1sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog in next 2. Rep until the end of the round
1sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog in next 2. Rep until the end of the round
1sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog in next 2. Rep until the end of the round

RIBBING
Use the 4.5 mm crochet hook

Version 1: single ribbing (not folded)
Start: 8ch
R1: start into the second st, 1sc into the next 7sts, 1ss into the next 2sts of the edge, turn
R2: 1scblo in next 6sts, 1sc into the last st, 1ch and turn
R3: 1sc in the first st, 1sc blo into the next 6sts, 1ss into the next 2sts of the edge. Turn.
Rep. R2 and R3 until you complete the circumference of the body/sleeve.
Join the ends of the ribbing using slip stitches.
Version 2: folded ribbing
*for the sleeves, work one round in sc before starting the ribbing; work 2sc into each 2ch side-row edge and 3sc in each dc side-row edge.
Start: 15ch
Rep. the same pattern as for single ribbing (with the number of sts we have now)

Next: folding the ribbing.
Step 1: with your work on the right side, fold the ribbing inside
Step 2: with the working yarn under your work, insert the hook into the st at the last round of the body/sleeve, before ribbing, and then into the corespondent side-row edge, yarn over, and pull out a loop (through both sides);
Step 3: Insert the hook into the next st and repeat Step 2, then pass the first loop through the second loop (like a slip stitch)
Rep. Step 2 and 3 until you complete the entire circumference of the body/sleeves 

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

And, Done! Phew! I wrote quite a lot πŸ™‚

I hope you like it and you will try it because it’s easier than it looks πŸ™‚

The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts, photos, and more information about how you can adjust this pattern to your measurements. You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here: