Crochet Polo T-Shirt Pattern (XS–5XL) – Modern, Lightweight, and Easy to Make

If you’re looking to add a stylish, handmade staple to your wardrobe, you’re going to love this one. The Polo T-Shirt Crochet Pattern blends timeless design with modern comfort, making it the perfect project for spring and summer—or anytime you’re craving a light, breathable top.

This relaxed, oversized tee features a drop-shoulder fit, elegant shaping details, and a classic polo-style neckline that gives it a clean, contemporary finish. Whether you’re pairing it with jeans for a casual look or layering it over a dress, it’s a versatile piece you’ll want to wear on repeat.

In this blog post, I’ll guide you through everything you need to know to crochet your own Polo T-Shirt—from materials and sizing to detailed steps and construction tips. This pattern is designed with both beginners and seasoned crocheters in mind, and it comes in 9 inclusive sizes, from XS to 5XL.

So grab your favorite DK yarn and a comfy seat—let’s get started on your next favorite handmade tee!

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• 👉 Buy on my website
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MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size 3 , DK weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
  o 3.5 mm crochet hook (optional an 3mm crochet hook for the sleeves edging and collar)
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

Introducing our latest crochet pattern: The Polo T-Shirt!

Crafted with comfort and style in mind, this chic T-shirt is the perfect addition to any handmade wardrobe. Featuring an oversized fit and relaxed drop-shoulder design, it effortlessly captures a laid-back, modern aesthetic.

The thoughtfully shaped back panel enhances the silhouette with a higher neckline and a gently sloped hem near the sleeves, ensuring a flattering and comfortable fit. What truly sets this pattern apart is its innovative construction: the front panels flow seamlessly from the back, forming a classic polo-style neckline that adds a refined touch.

With its timeless look and contemporary structure, the Polo T-Shirt strikes the perfect balance between comfort and sophistication. Elevate your everyday style with this must-have crochet pattern.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Polo T-shirt Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with a 88 cm bust circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL);

Final Measurements of the Polo T-shirt
Neck Width. a: 22 cm (22, 23, 24) (24, 24, 25, 25, 25)
Bust Circ. b: 98 cm (104, 108, 115), (123, 133, 142, 151, 163)
Sleeve Circ. c: 31 cm (32, 33, 35) (36, 40, 41, 45, 48)
Length d: 47 cm (49, 49, 50) (52, 55, 56, 59, 60)

YARN

For the Polo T-shirt I used:
Katia Tencel Cotton, in color 13, Pistachio.
Yarn composition: 67% Lyocell, 33% Cotton. Each skein has 50 grams and is approximately 120 meters.
For each size, you will approximately need: 950 (1050, 1090, 1180) (1320, 1500,1630, 1830, 2010) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

• Ch – chain
• Sc – single crochet
• scblo – single crochet in back loop only
• hdc – half double crochet
• ss – slip stitch
• St(s) – stitch(es)
• R – row
• ** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 3.5mm crochet hook in the hdc pattern

19 sts = 10 cm
14 rows = 10 cm

💾 Prefer the Printable PDF Version?

If you’d like to support my work and enjoy a beautifully formatted, ad-free version of this pattern that you can download and print, the Polo T-Shirt Crochet Pattern PDF is available in my shops:

• 👉 Buy on my website
• 👉 Buy on Ravelry
• 👉 Buy on Etsy
• 👉 Buy on Shopify
• 👉 Buy Pattern + Kit on Yarnsea

Thank you so much for supporting independent designers—it truly means the world!

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The Polo T-Shirt is created using simple stitches, resulting in a timeless and classic look. The main stitch pattern is half double crochet, complemented by a decorative edging that alternates between rows of single crochet and back post single crochet, creating a subtle embossed texture.
We will use foundation half double crochet (FHDC) to extend the shoulder stitches of the Right Front Panel and shape the polo neckline.

Foundation Half Double Crochet Instructions:
First FHDC: Yarn over (yo), insert the hook into the side of the last hdc, yo and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).Yo, pull through the first loop (this creates the chain base). Yo again, and pull through all three loops on the hook.

Following FHDCs: Yo, insert the hook into the chain base (the “V” at the bottom) of the previous FHDC, yo and pull up a loop. Yo, pull through the first loop (creating the next chain). Yo again, and pull through all three loops on the hook.

Its clever construction offers a relaxed, comfortable fit while making it easy to customize for any body type. The project begins with the top back panel, worked from the neckline downward. In the initial section, you’ll increase at both the beginning and end of each row to shape the sloped shoulders. How many rows should you increase? That depends on your desired fit and starting neckline width. In this particular design, we continue increasing until we reach the intended bust width. Once the increases are complete, we work straight down to form the desired armhole depth.
The front panels are then worked directly from the shoulders. When both panels reach the armpit, they are joined, and the body is worked in the round to the desired length.

INSTRUCTIONS

BACK PANEL
Top Back Panel

Notes:

• Begin working the first section of the Top Back Panel from the neckline, progressing downward.
• In this section, you’ll increase at both ends of each row:
  • On one row, increase 1 stitch at each end.
  • On the following row, increase 2 stitches at each end.
• Alternate this pattern as you continue shaping the shoulders.
• I used two stacked single crochets as the starting stitch for each row, but feel free to use any stitch you’re comfortable with.
• When making increases, do not work into the very first or last stitch of the row. Instead, place your increases into the stitch after the first stitch and before the last stitch for a neater edge.

For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer
to the video tutorial available here.

Start: ch 41 (41, 43, 43) (45, 45, 47, 47, 47) sts
I used two stacked single crochets as the starting stitch. This is an alternative to the turning chain and it will count as the first hdc. That is why in the pattern below it will be written as hdc.

R1: 1hdc into the first st (this is my starting stacked single crochet), 2hdc into the next st, 1hdc in each of the next sts, until you have 2sts left, 2hdc into the next st, 1hdc into the last st; turn
R2: 1hdc into the first st, 2hdc into the next 2sts, 1hdc in each of the follwing sts until you have 3sts left, 2hdc into the next 2sts, 1hdc into the last st; turn;

Continue alternating R1 and R2, increasing one row with one st on each end and on the next row increasing 2sts on each end until you have
16 (18, 18, 20) (22, 26, 28, 32, 34) rows or until you reach the desired bust width;
Place a stitch marker into the last row; this will help to know where the shoulder edge ends

At the end of this section you will have:
89 (95, 97, 103) (111, 123, 131, 143, 149) sts

Next, continue working without increasing for another 16 rows; You can adjust the number of rows on this section and work more rows if you would like to have a wider armhole;

FRON PANEL
Left Front Panel
Shoulder Edge

We’ll begin working the left front panel from the shoulder edge. This edge not only adds a clean, polished detail to the shoulder but also helps create a neat and structured finish;

We will work 3sts in every 2 side rows;

Start working on the right side (both sides look the same and here you will have to choose which one will be the right side;

Rejoin yarn into the first st and ch 1;
R1: 1sc in each st to the end of the row (work 3sc in each 2side rows); ch 1 and turn
At the end of the row you should have
24 (27, 27, 30) (33, 39, 42, 48, 51) sc
R2: 1bpsc around each sc to the end of the row; ch1 and turn
Rep. R1 and R2 two more times

Actual Left Front Panel

R1 – R6: 1hdc in each st to the end of the row;
At the end of R6 ch 17 (17, 18, 18) (19, 19, 20, 20, 20);

Note:
The stitches added at the end of the 6th row are to shape the polo neckline. For the neckline ribbing, I reserved 6 stitches.
If you started with a different number of stitches for the neckline, you can calculate the number of stitches to add at the end of the front panel as follows:

(Total neckline stitches – stitches reserved for ribbing) ÷ 2

Example:
If you reserved 6 stitches for the ribbing, subtract 6 from your total neckline stitches, then divide the result by 2.

For this particular pattern, I will end up with one st less for the front panel compared with the back panel;

R7: 1hdc in each st (includding the ch – sts at the beginning of the row;
R8 – R28: 1hdc in each st to the end of the row;
Note:
The section above determines the depth of the polo neckline. You can adjust it by working as many rows as you like, depending on how deep you want the neckline to be.

Cut the yarn and begin working the Right Front Panel

Right Front Panel

Work the Right Front Panel, mirroring the left Front Panel;

Shoulder Edge;

Begin working on the right side of your project:
Rejoin the yarn into the first stitch of the right shoulder (this should be at the last increase row of the top back panel).
Work 3 single crochets (sc) into every 2 side rows.

R1: 1sc in each st to the end of the row (work 3sc in each 2side rows); ch 1 and turn
At the end of the row you should have
24 (27, 27, 30) (33, 39, 42, 48, 51) sc
R2: 1bpsc around each sc to the end of the row; ch1 and turn
Rep. R1 and R2 two more times

Actual Right Front Panel

R1 – R7: 1hdc in each st to the end of the row;
At the end of R7 work 17 (17, 18, 18) (19, 19, 20, 20, 20) foundation half double crochet;

Using foundation half double crochet instead of chain stitches will keep both front panels aligned at the neckline.

For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer
to the video tutorial available here.

R8 – R28: 1hdc in each st to the end of the row;

In the next row, we will join both front panels and continue working the two halves together until we reach the armpit length, ensuring the number of rows matches the back panel.

R29: 1hdc in each st to the end of the Right Front Panel, 6 foundation hdc (the neckline ribbing sts), 1hdc in each st of the Left Front Panel;
R30: 1hdc in each st to the end of the row;
Rep. R30 until you have 32 (34, 34, 36) (38, 42, 44, 48, 50) rows or until you have the same number of rows as for the back panel; turn

BODY

Next, we will join the front and back panels and continue working in the round until the T-shirt reaches the desired length.
Turn your work after each round to maintain a consistent stitch appearance with the top section of the T-shirt.

R1 – Joining Round
Start working from where your yarn is;
1hdc in each of the front panel sts, ch 4 (4, 6, 6) (6, 4, 4, 6, 6) – armpit sts, 1hdc in each of the back panel sts, ch ch 4 (4, 6, 6) (6, 4, 4, 6, 6) – armpit sts, close the round with a slip stitch into the first hdc; turn
R2: 1hdc in each st around; close the round with a sl st into the first hdc;
Rep R2 until you reach the desired length or until you have 30 rounds for the BODY;

Finish with the BOTTOM HEM RIBBING

BOTTOM HEM RIBBING

For the Bottom Hem Ribbing we will work the same pattern as the shoulders.
Turn after each round;
R1: 1sc in each st around; close the round with a sl st into the first sc; 1ch and turn
R2: 1bpsc around each sc around; close the round with a sl st into the first sc;

Rep. R1 and R2 two more times;
Fasten off

💾 Prefer the Printable PDF Version?

If you’d like to support my work and enjoy a beautifully formatted, ad-free version of this pattern that you can download and print, the Polo T-Shirt Crochet Pattern PDF is available in my shops:

• 👉 Buy on my website
• 👉 Buy on Ravelry
• 👉 Buy on Etsy
• 👉 Buy on Shopify
• 👉 Buy Pattern + Kit on Yarnsea

Thank you so much for supporting independent designers—it truly means the world!

Neckline RIBBING

Next, we will work the Neckline Ribbing;
We will use the same 6 rows pattern as we used for the shoulders and for the bottom hem.

Start working on the right side and rejoin yarn into the first st;
Work 3sts in to every 2 side rows;
The bottom of the Both neckline ribbing will be joined together with the t-shirt neckline edge at the end;

For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer
to the video tutorial available here.

COLLAR

For the collar, we will start by working the first 6 rows in the same pattern as the neckline ribbing.
Begin the first single crochet (sc) row from the second side row of the neckline ribbing and finish one side row before the end. Work 1 stitch into each side row of the neckline ribbing.

We leave one stitch unworked at both the beginning and end of the row, as we will later complete the collar with two rounds worked around the entire neckline, including the side edges. These two stitches at each end will be used to join the final two rows of the collar with the neckline edge;

R1 – R6: Alternate 1row in sc and 1row in bpsc same as the bottom hem ribbing and the neckline ribbing

R7 – 12: 1hdc in each st to the end of the row;
cut the yarn

Final Edge of the Collar

The final edge of the collar will include the side edges.
We will work one row in single crochet (sc) and one row in back post single crochet (bpsc).
The single crochet row will be worked on the wrong side so that, when the collar is folded, the finished edge appears neat.

Row 1 (sc row):
Rejoin the yarn into the first unworked side row of the neckline ribbing.
Work 1 sc into each stitch along the collar edge, and finish the row with a slip stitch (sl st) into the last unworked side row of the neckline ribbing.

Row 2 (bpsc row):
Without chaining at the beginning of the row, start directly into the first sc.
Work 1 back post single crochet (bpsc) around each sc across.
Finish the row with a sl st into the side row of the neckline ribbing.

SLEEVES EDGING

The sleeve ribbing will be worked in the same pattern as the bottom hem ribbing.
We will work in the round, turning after each round to maintain a consistent stitch appearance.
For the first single crochet (sc) round, work 3 stitches across every 2 side rows.
Across the shoulder’s side rows, work 1 sc into each side row.
Turn after each round.

R1: 1 sc in each stitch around; close the round with a slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc. Chain 1 (ch 1) and turn.
R2: 1 back post single crochet (bpsc) around each sc; close the round with a sl st into the first sc.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 two more times.
Fasten off.

TO FINISH: Weave in all ends and block to measurements

💾 Prefer the Printable PDF Version?

If you’d like to support my work and enjoy a beautifully formatted, ad-free version of this pattern that you can download and print, the Polo T-Shirt Crochet Pattern PDF is available in my shops:

• 👉 Buy on my website
• 👉 Buy on Ravelry
• 👉 Buy on Etsy
• 👉 Buy on Shopify
• 👉 Buy Pattern + Kit on Yarnsea

Thank you so much for supporting independent designers—it truly means the world!

Final Thoughts

I hope you enjoyed making your own Polo T-Shirt as much as I enjoyed designing it. With its clean lines, relaxed fit, and elegant neckline, this piece is sure to become a go-to favorite in your handmade wardrobe.

Whether you’re dressing it up for brunch or throwing it on for a relaxed afternoon out, this versatile tee is as practical as it is stylish. Plus, with 9 sizes available, it’s easy to customize and make it truly your own.

If you loved this pattern, don’t forget to share your finished project on social media and tag me @bykaterinadesigns—I’d love to see your beautiful makes! You can also save this post on Pinterest so it’s easy to find when you want to crochet it again.

Thanks so much for stopping by, and happy crocheting! 🧶✨