I am simply in love with this new design and so thankful that @misscjcrafts suggested the Wrap Me in Love name because this is what I feel every time I dress these pieces of clothes: love!

The Wrap Me in Love Sweater inspiration came again from a store dress that I bought a long time ago. Imagine being in my wardrobe for so long; I was so happy that I finally made one with my hands.

It was a lot of work figuring out the pattern because the machine knitted fabric is nothing similar to the hand-knitted and even more crochet. The actual dress helped a lot, though, to figure out how I have to work the pieces and how to assemble, and the rest was just about trying on and adjusting the shape on the go.

It was the first design for which I made two samples, but I wanted to make sure that everything works as I calculated. Also, I wanted to know how the drape will be using a different fiber. And the result was a happy one.


I know that for almost all my designs, you can find a free pattern here on the website, and this design is nothing different, only that I found it more helpful to give all the information you need to make this design with your own materials and also according to your own measurements.

Of course, that if you want a step-by-step instructions pattern, you can find it in my shops listed below. It’s an easily printable version, and you will find in the pattern everything you need for only a few bucks. 😊

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern, with step by step instructions, stitch and row counts from S up to 5XL sizes here:

You can also find a video tutorial here


Let’s see a list of materials, the logic behind this design, and how to customize your own.

In the material list, you will find everything I used for both samples. 

With the info you will find here, you will be able to make this sweater in any yarn. Just consider that using different yarn and having a different tension might need less or more yarn.



  • Yarn
    • Category 1 to 3 ( Fingering to DK weight yarn)
  • Crochet Hook
  • 4.5 mm crochet hook and a 3.5 mm for Sweater’s ribbing
  • You will need a yarn needle for weave in ends
  • Scissors
  • stitch markers
  • elastic band (approximate with 3 cm shorter than the waist circumference) – optional



This pattern requires techniques like half double crochet, single crochet in back loop only, increase.

The construction is easier than it looks. For the top, work two identical pieces, starting from the cuff.

Work front and back panel in a single piece.

In the end, fold both pieces in half and stitch the sides. Then place one piece inside the other, with the corners next to the other piece’s side seam, and join the bottom using single crochet stitches.

To make the top longer, into a dress, after assembling, start to work in circular rounds from the bottom of the top.


 Final measurements of the Wrap Me in Love Sweater are listed below:


Cuff Circ a: 24 cm (26, 28, 30, 34, 39, 43, 47, 49)

Sleeve length b: 17 cm (17, 19, 19, 20, 20, 21, 21)

Bust width c: 43 cm (47, 53, 57, 63, 67, 73, 77)

Top Length d:

Sweater (without ribbing): 46 cm (48, 47, 48, 48, 48, 50, 50)

Dress: 40 cm (40, 41, 42, 42, 42, 44, 44, 44)


These measurements will fit:


To Fit cm  




















Bust 86 96 106 116 126 116 126 136 146 156



How much Yarn do you need?

I made the 2 versions samples using 2 different types and yarn weight.

For the Sweater, I used Scheepjes Catona, which is a mercerized fingering cotton yarn.

I used Katia Sky for the dress, a blend of cotton, wool, and polyamide in a DK weight.

I worked on both samples using the same hook size.

Dress Katia Sky S M L XL XXL 3XL 4XL 5XL
50g/160 m 11 12 14 15 16 17 18 19
Sweater  Catona                
50g / 125 m 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17


The main stitch pattern for both samples is 1 row in half double crochet and one row in mesh stitch (1half double crochet, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 stitch)

The pattern for the ribbing is single crochet in the back loop only.

I used the skirt as a pattern 3 rows in half double crochet and 1row in mesh stitch.

For the final touches of both top pieces, I used twisted single crochet.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern, with step by step instructions, stitch and row counts here from S up to 5XL sizes :


Foundation half double crochet

We are using the foundation half double crochet to extend the trunk’s length at the end of the row for this particular pattern.

1st st: Yarn over and insert the hook in the side of the last stitch. Yarn over, pull it through the first loop only, yarn over, and pull it through all loops.

2nd st, and all the next sts: Yarn over, insert the hook into the bottom v of the previous st, yarn over and pull it through the first loop, yarn over and pull it through all the loops.

Twisted single crochet

Insert the hook into the next st, yarn over, and pull out a loop. Turn your hook 180 Degrees, clock-wise. Yarn over and pull it through both loops on your hook.


Always ch2 at the end of each hdc row. Ch2 does not count as the first dc.

Always ch1 at the end of each sc row. Ch1 does not count as first sc.

When working perpendicular with the scblo rows, each side row represents 1 st.

Work both top pieces flat. Turn after each row.

Join the bottom of top pieces by working in the round.

Work the dress’s skirt in the round. Join with a slip stitch after each round.

For the dress, I use an elastic band to make the waist with a closer fit. You can use an elastic band for the sweater version as well. After working the ribbing, if you want a closer fit on the waist, you can insert an elastic band.

The elastic band has to be approximately 3 cm shorter than your waist circumference.

To insert the elastic band, work 1 round in single crochet stitches, working over the elastic band.

How to adjust the pattern to your measurements, yarn, and tension:

Start with a swatch in the main stitch pattern.

Below you can see the diagram with one piece of the top part.

What to measure?


First, we will start with the cuff. The cuff width is proportional to the upper arm circumference.

In this particular case, the cuff is approximately 2 cm smaller than the upper arm.

Measure upper arm, and then subtract 2 cm. This value will be the cuff length.

Knowing the gauge from your swatch, calculate how many stitches you will need to get to that length.

For this particular sample, the cuff width is 7 cm.

The cuff is worked in single crochet in the back loop only. Swatch this stitch and see how many sts you will need to get to 7 cm.

The value will be the number of sts to start with for the cuff.

After you have the number of sts for the cuff, work in single crochet in the back loop only the number of rows needed to get to the cuff length calculated above. It has to be an odd number of rows.


The sleeve length is proportional to the actual sleeve length.

Measure your sleeve length from the armpit to the cuff.

The exact sleeve length for this sample will be shorter. Then subtract the cuff width (7cm)

Calculate the number of rows that you will need to get to the actual sleeve length. Subtract 26 cm, and the result will be the sleeve length for your sample (approximate 40% of the exact sleeve length)

Now that you know how many rows you will need for the sleeve, you are good to go. Work the 1st row of the sleeve perpendicular with the cuff without increasing. Next, increase with 1st at the beginning of the row and one st at the end of the row until you complete the sleeve length.

The last row of the sleeve length has to be a mesh stitch row.

Trunk length

The first step is to increase the sleeve’s number of sts to get to the desired length.

The sweater sample was designed with 7 cm over the waist length, represented by the ribbing.

The dress’s top is designed approximately 3 cm less than the standard waist-length measurements.

Measure your desired length. Divide the total number of sts of the sleeve by 2. Calculate how many sts you will need to get to the desired length. Subtract (sleeve’s sts/2) and see how many sts you will need to add on each side.

You will need an even number of sts.

Next, at the end of the last sleeve’s row, add the extra ch sts. Turn and work the row until the end. At the end of the row, add the extra sts, using foundation half double crochet.

 Trunk width

Measure the biggest part of your body (bust or waist). Divide the number by 2, and this will be the value for your trunk width.

Calculate according to your gauge how many rows you will need to get to the trunk width. It has to be an odd number.

Next, for the second part of the trunk width, you will need to increase. The corner of the current piece has to reach the side seam of the other side.

To know how many rows to work without increasing and increasing, divide the total number of rows by 2. For example, I had in total 47 rows. Divided by 2, I will get 23.5. In this case, I will work 23 rows without increasing and 24 rows with increasing.

The increases will be made starting with a mesh stitch row. The pattern will be:

Increase row: 1hdc, ch2, 1hdc in 1st st (inc), continue with mesh st until the end of the row. 1hdc, ch1, 1hdc in the last st (inc)

Work next 3 rows, without increasing.

Repeat the 4 rows pattern until you complete the trunk width.

Repeat the same pattern for the second piece, and then follow the assembling diagrams you can find below.

Step 1


After assembling Steps, you can add the ribbing for the sweater version, or you can start work in rounds, adding the skirt, using any stitch pattern you want.

I hope that you will find all this information useful and you will be able to make your own Wrap Me in Love Sweater or Dress. I can’t wait to see yours. 😍🥰

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern, with step by step instructions, stitch and row counts here from S up to 5XL sizes :


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