What an exciting day! I’m thrilled to finally share the Sunset Breeze Shirt Pattern with you. Looking back through my camera roll, I see that I started working on this design in March, and now it’s almost the end of June!

Originally, this project began as a dress. I dreamt of creating a shirt-dress in black, but my first attempt wasn’t successful. I started with a top-down, saddle sleeve construction, but I wasn’t happy with the fit. So, I switched gears and tried a panel construction instead.

The shirt version became my backup plan, using some yarn I had on hand for the video tutorial. Filming in black didn’t seem like a good idea, even though I wanted my dress to be black. So, I decided to make two versions.

After the initial dress attempt didn’t work out, I focused on the shirt version for my second try. I’m thrilled with the result! And don’t worry, I’m still working on the dress version, so it’s not a lost cause.

I hope you’ll try making the Sunset Breeze Shirt. The process might be slow, but it’s incredibly rewarding when you see the beautiful final result

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

 

Let’s dive right into the pattern because it’s quite detailed, and I want to save you some time and space! 😊

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size 2 , Sport weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 3.5 mm crochet hook
o 3 mm crochet hook for edging and collar
• 8 – 10 buttons 1cm diameter
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Sunset Breeze Shirt is a versatile and stylish summer top that seamlessly blends classic elements with modern flair. Featuring a drop-shoulder construction, this design ensures a relaxed and comfortable fit, perfect for warm weather. The shirt is crafted using a mesh stitch pattern, which offers both breathability and a touch of elegance.

This pattern incorporates color blocks, adding a contemporary twist to the traditional crochet technique. The contrasting colors used for the edging and details enhance the overall aesthetic, giving the shirt a polished and refined look.

Whether you’re strolling along the beach or enjoying a casual day out, the Sunset Breeze Shirt is designed to keep you looking chic and feeling cool. Its timeless appeal and easy-to-wear design make it a must-have addition to any summer wardrobe

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Sunset Breeze Shirt Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with a 88 cm bust circumference, and wears a size Extra Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL);

Final Measurements of the Sunset Breeze Shirt
Neck Width a: 20 cm (21, 21, 22) (23, 24, 24, 25, 26)
Back Panel (Bust) Width b: 48 cm (52, 54, 57), (61, 66, 72, 76, 81)
Armhole depth (sleeve width). c: 17 cm (18, 19, 21) (21, 23, 24, 26, 26)
Sleeve length d: 20 cm (20, 22, 22) (23, 23, 24, 24, 24)
Length e: (front panel): 60 cm (61, 63, 66) (66, 70, 70, 73, 74)
Length f: (back panel): 65 cm (66, 67, 70) (71, 74, 75, 77, 78)

YARN

For the Sunset Breeze Shirt, I used: Friends Wheel by Hobbii, in color Off White (02) – A, Light Grey (117) – B, Grey (119) – C, and Anthracite (122) – D. Yarn composition:55% Cotton, 45% Acryl; Each cake has 100 grams and is approximately 400 meters.
For each size, you will approximately need:
Off White (A): 300 (330, 360, 400) (420, 480, 520, 570, 610) meters
Light Grey (117) – B: 360 (400, 430, 470) (510, 570, 630, 680, 730) meters
Grey (119) – C: 260 (290, 310, 340) (370, 410, 450, 490, 530) meters
Anthracite (122) – D: 360 (400, 430, 470) (510, 570, 630, 680, 730) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
fpsc – front post sc
dc – double crochet
sc2tog – 2 sc worked together
dc2tog wide – 2dc worked together with 1st in between
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – row
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 3.5 mm crochet hook in mesh (filet) stitch pattern

25sts = 10 cm
11 rows = 10 cm

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

 

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

MESH STITCH (FILET STITCH)
The primary stitch pattern used in the Sunset Breeze Shirt is a mesh stitch pattern also known as filet stitch pattern.
This stitch pattern requires a multiple of 2+1 stitches.

Pattern (use it for the gauge swatch)

Chain the required number of stitches
R1: ch4, 1dc into the 7th stitch, *1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next; *rep the section to the end of the row; ch4 and turn
R2: *skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row; work the last dc into the third chain.

This design features a decrease pattern integrated into the filet stitch. The decreases are worked into the bottom of the back and front panels, giving the garment an elegantly curved, oval-shaped hem.

Decrease at the beginning of the row: Start with ch3, skip the first 1ch-sp, 1dc in next; the ch3 at the beginning won’t count as a stitch; the first stitch in the row will be the first dc;
Decrease at the end of the row: When you have 3 stitches left, work a wide double crochet 2 together (dc2tog wide) as follows:

1. Yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over, and pull through the first 2 loops on your hook.
2. Skip 1 chain space.
3. Yarn over and insert the hook into the last stitch, yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops on your hook..
4. Yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook.

Front Post Single Crochet

We will work one row in front post single crochet for the edges. This will be the second and final row of the edge. These front-post single crochet stitches will cause the top loops of the stitches in the last row to lay on the surface, giving the edging a nice and polished look. This row will be worked on the wrong side.

Begin with a chain 1. Insert the hook from front to back into the first stitch, and then pull the hook out from back to front through the next stitch, working around the single crochet stitch of the previous row.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

 

INSTRUCTIONS

BACK PANEL

The construction of the back panel consists of two pieces: the top of the back panel, which is worked bottom-up, and the bottom of the back panel (or the rest of the back panel), which is worked top-down.

The back panel is worked in two pieces because the design incorporates short rows to shape the shoulder. Working the top back panel bottom-up makes it easier to work the short rows with decreases, rather than with increases, which would be required for a top-down construction. (considering that we have to decrease multiple stitches in one single row.

BACK PANEL – Section 1

For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video tutorial available here.

*If you want to make the shirt in color Block, use for this section color A (see the YARN section above)
*first 3ch at the beginning of the row, counts as first dc;
Start: ch 121 (129, 135, 143) (153. 165, 179, 191, 203)
R1: 4ch, 1dc in the 7th stitch from the hook, *1ch, skip the next st, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the ed of the row; ch4 and turn
R2: *skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep to the end of the row; work the last dc into the third ch; ch4 and turn;
Rep. R2 until you have 16 (16, 18, 20 ) (20, 22, 22, 24, 24) rows

BACK PANEL – Section 1 | Short Rows
To work the short rows, we will decrease at the beginning and end of each row.

Beginning of the Row: To decrease at the beginning, skip the stitches to be decreased by working slip stitches. This positions the yarn in the stitch where the current short row needs to start. For example, if we need to decrease by 4 stitches, we will work 5 slip stitches, skipping the first 4 stitches and positioning the yarn on top of the 5th stitch.

End of the Row: At the end of the row, leave the stitches that need to be decreased unworked

For all sizes:
Short R1: slip 5sts, ch4, skip the next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep until you have 4sts left; turn
Short R2: slip 7sts, ch4, skip the next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep until you have 6sts left; turn

Alternate R1 and R2 until you have 6 (7, 6, 8) (9, 9, 11, 12, 13) .

For sizes M and XXL you have to work one more row;

Size M, Short R7 (Last short Row): Rep. Short R2
Size XXL, Short R10 (Last short row): Rep. R1.

After completing the short rows, we should have:
61 (61, 63, 63) (65, 69, 71, 71, 75) stitches remaining.
From this total number of stitches, 5 stitches at the beginning and 5 at the end will form part of the shoulder and will be included in the next section where we straighten the shoulder edge.

If you consider the neckline width to be too large, you can repeat one or both short rows to achieve the desired number of stitches for the neckline width.

BACK PANEL – Section 1 | Straighten the shoulder edge

The shoulder edge may now look uneven due to the short rows, resembling a stairway. To straighten the edge, we will work two rows: one in single crochet and one in front post single crochet.

For this particular sample, I used color D (see the YARN section).

Right Shoulder

Instructions:

Start the First Row:

Begin the first row on the right side.
If necessary, cut the yarn after completing the last short row, especially if you want to use a different color for this edge.
Working the Rows:

To bridge the gaps between two short rows and avoid gaps, work two stitches together. Be careful not to increase the number of stitches.

You can work the bridge between short rows in two ways to avoid gaps and create a more even edge:

First Method:

Work 1 single crochet in the first 3 (5) stitches, depending on the short row.
Then, work sc2tog: insert the hook for the first leg into the 4th (6th) stitch, and for the second leg into the side stitch of the next short row.
Optionally, you can work the first leg as a half double crochet. This will make the “bridge” higher, resulting in a more even edge.

Second Method:

Work 1 single crochet in the first 4 (6) stitches, depending on the short row.
Then, work sc2tog: insert the hook for the first leg into the side stitch of the next short row, and for the second leg into the first stitch of the next short row.
Optionally, you can work the first leg as a half double crochet. This will make the “bridge” higher, resulting in a more even edge.

First Row (Single Crochet):

Work across the short rows in single crochet, ensuring you maintain an even edge; After completing the short rows section, work 1 single crochet into the next 5 stitches of the neckline.

At the end of this row you should have 35 (39, 41, 45) (49, 53, 59, 65, 69) sc stitches

Second Row (Front Post Single Crochet):

Work the second row in front post single crochet. This stitch will help lay the top loops of the stitches on the surface, giving a nice and polished look to the edging.
By following these steps, the shoulder edge will be straightened and have a clean, finished appearance.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

 

Left Shoulder

For the left shoulder, you will work the same two rows: one in single crochet and one in front post single crochet.

Begin the First Row:

Start on the right side.
For this shoulder, the first stitch will be the 5th stitch of the neckline, counting from the left edge to the right.
Work the First Single Crochet Row:

Follow one of the methods described above to make the “bridge” between short rows.
After finishing the first row, you should have 35 (39, 41, 45) (49, 53, 59, 65, 69) single crochet stitches.
Turn and Work the Second Row:

Turn your work and crochet the second row in front post single crochet.

Note: These instructions continue with the Back Panel Section 2. However, if you are working the front panels in the same color as the shoulder edge, you can proceed directly to the front panels. See the instructions below for more details.

BACK PANEL – Section 2

Contrasting Edge

Using Color D

Work into the foundation row (the bottom) of the BACK PANEL Section 1;
Work on the right side;

R1:Rejoin yarn into the first st, ch1, 1sc into each st across; ch1 and turn
R2: 1fpsc around each st.

Change to color B and continue the Back Panel Section 2

Actual Back Panel Section 2

After completing the detailed edge in a contrasting color, we will start working on the actual panel. This particular design features a reverse pleat in the middle of the back panel.

Mark the Middle Stitch:

Place a stitch marker in the middle stitch: stitch number 61 (65, 68, 72) (77, 83, 90, 96, 102).

The middle stitch can be a double crochet (dc) or a chain space (1 ch-sp).

Creating the Pleat:

For this sample, the pleat consists of 16 stitches, which means 8 chain spaces.
You can add more stitches if you want the pleat to be larger

R1: 4ch, skip next st, 1dc in next st, *1ch, skip next st 1dc in next; *rep. to the stitch marker, ch17 (the pleat stitches) 1dc* (If your middle stitch is a double crochet (dc), work this dc into the same stitch as the last dc before the pleat stitches. If the middle stitch is a chain space (ch-sp), skip the middle stitch and work this dc into the next stitch). Continue in the established stitch pattern to the end of the row, then chain 4 and turn.

Continue working in the established pattern for a few more rows. Then, follow these steps to sew the pleat:

Step 1: Turn your piece to the wrong side. Fold the pleat and secure it with stitch markers or safety pins.

Note: When folding the pleat, ensure half of the chain spaces (in this design, 4) are in the middle, and fold the remaining chain spaces underneath (in this design, 2 chain spaces on each side).

Step 2: Use a needle and thread to sew the pleat edge to the back panel edge.

Continue working into the established pattern until you have 36 rows for the Section 2 of the back panel.

Note: This design features a decrease pattern integrated into the filet stitch. The decreases are worked into the bottom of the back panel giving the garment an elegantly curved, oval-shaped hem.

Besides the 36 rows, the back panel section 2 incorporates 12 more rows with a decrease pattern. If you wish to adjust the length of the shirt, work more or fewer rows before starting these rows with decreases.

Decrease with 2 stitches both at the beginning and at the end of the row, on each of the following rows;

Decrease at the begging of the row: Start with ch3, skip the first 1ch-sp, 1dc in next; the ch3 at the beggining won’t count as a stitch; the first stitch in the row, will be the first dc;
Decrease at the end of the row: When you have 3 stitches left, work a wide double crochet 2 together (dc2tog wide) as follows:

1. Yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops on your hook.
2. Skip 1 chain space.
3. Yarn over and insert the hook into the last stitch, yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops on your hook..
4. Yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook.

R37: 3ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep until you have 3sts left, dc2tog wide;
Rep. R37 until you have 48 rows for the BACK PANEL Section 2 (12 rows with decrese pattern)

Fasten off; the back panel is done!

After completing the back panel you should have in total, counting the rows from the neckline and only the mesh stitch rows:

70 (71, 73, 76) (77, 80, 81, 84, 85) rows

FRONT PANEL

Front Panel Right
Use color C

Start with your work on the right side
Rejoin yarn into the first st of the right shoulder;
R1: 4ch, skip next st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next; *rep. to the end of the row; 4ch and turn (last stitch is the last stitch of the shoulder edge)
R2: skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep to the end of the row; 4ch and turn

R3 – R4: rep. R2
At Row 5, we will add the required number of stitches at the end of the row to complete the front panel width. On this front panel, we will add the required number of stitches at the end of the row as foundation stitches in a mesh stitch pattern.
For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video

It will be easier to count the stitches that we will add, as ch-sps.
For each size you will need to add 13 (13, 13, 13) (14, 15, 15, 15, 16) ch-sps;

R5: Work the row into the established pattern to the last stitch of the shoulder;
Foundation mesh sts: Continue R5, following these steps:
Step 1: ch1, yarn over and insert the hook into the side of the last st;
Step 2: Yarn over, and pull the yarn through the first loop
Step 3: Rep. Step 2
Step 4: Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first 2 loops
Step 5: Yarm Over and pull it through all the loop on the hook

You completed the first ch-sp
Rep. Steps 1 to 5 until you add all the required ch-sps.

At the end of R5, ch4 and turn;
Starting with R6, continue working into the established pattern until you have
59 (60, 62, 65) (66, 69, 70, 73, 74) rows;

Notes:
The front panels will have a shaped bottom hem but will be shorter than the back panel.
For the back panel, we worked 12 rows with a decrease pattern; for the front panels, we will work only 7 rows with a decrease pattern.
The number of rows for each panel, before starting the rows with the decrease pattern, should be equal. for the back panel, This count begins from the neckline and not from the shoulder.
The contrasting line on the back will count as 1 row in the mesh stitch pattern.

Shaping the bottom Hem:

The decrease will only occur on the side edge, and the pattern will be written differently for sizes with an even number of rows and those with an odd number of rows worked for the front panel until now

Sizes XS, L, 2XL, 4XL

For these sizes, the last row before starting the decrease pattern was on the right side. This means that when you turn your work, the side edge will be at the end of the row.

First Decrease Row: ch4, skip 1ch-sp, *1dc in next dc, 1ch, skip next ch-sp; *rep until you have 3sts left, dc2tog wide in the last 3sts;
Second decrease Row: 3ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row;

Alternate these 2 rows until you complete the front panel; you will work 7 rows with the decrease pattern;

Sizes S, M, XL, 3XL, and 5XL

For these sizes, the last row before starting the decrease pattern was on the wrong side. This means that when you turn your work, the side edge will be at the beginning of the row.

First decrease Row: 3ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row;

Second Decrease Row: ch4, skip 1ch-sp, *1dc in next dc, 1ch, skip next ch-sp; *rep until you have 3sts left, dc2tog wide in the last 3sts;

Alternate these 2 rows until you complete the front panel; you will work 7 rows with the decrease pattern;

After finishing the rows with decreases you will have in total: 66 (67, 69, 72) (73, 76, 77, 80, 81) rows.

Front Panel Left

For the left front panel, I incorporated two color blocks in my sample: color B and color A. These two color blocks are visually separated by a contrasting line in color D, achieved by crocheting one row in single crochet (sc) followed by one row in front post single crochet (fpsc). These two rows together form one row in the mesh stitch pattern. Therefore, a total of 58, (59, 61, 64) (65, 68, 69, 72, 73) rows will be worked in the mesh stitch pattern before starting the decrease on the side edge. These rows will be evenly split approximately in half.

Start with color B and work 30 (30, 32, 32) (34, 34, 34, 36, 36) rows. You have the flexibility to distribute the total number of rows as desired. I opted to allocate more rows to color B to ensure that all sizes have an even number of rows. This consideration accounts for the fact that color A will also include rows with the decrease pattern.

Transitioning to color A, continue working until reaching the decrease pattern, completing 28 (29, 29, 32) (31, 34, 35, 36, 37) rows.

Front Panel Left Color Block B
Start with color B
Rejoin yarn into the first stitch of the shoulder, next to the neckline;
R1: ch4, skip next st, 1dc in next, *1ch, skip next st, 1dc in next; *rep. to the end of the row; ch4 and turn
R2: skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row;
R3: Rep. R2
At the end of R4, we will add extra stitches to complete the front panel width;
R4: Work into the established pattern to the end of the row; ch 26 (26, 26, 26) (28, 30, 30, 30, 32) sts
R5: ch4sts more and work 1dc into the 7th stitch, 1ch, skip 1st, *1dc in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st *; Rep. from * to* until you finish the ch sts;

Continuing R5: 1dc into the next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the end of the row;

Continue working into the established pattern until you have 30 (30, 32, 32) (34, 34, 34, 36, 36) rows

Color Blocks separating line

Change to color D
R1: 1ch, 1sc in each st to the end of the row
R2: 1ch, 1fpsc in each stitch to the end of the row

Front Panel Left Color Block A

Change to color A and continue working into the established mesh stitch pattern for 28 (29, 29, 32) (31, 34, 35, 36, 37) rows.

Shaping the bottom Hem:

The decrease will only occur on the side edge, and the pattern will be written differently for sizes with an even number of rows and those with an odd number of rows worked for the front panel until now

Sizes XS, L, 2XL, 4XL

For these sizes, the last row before starting the decrease pattern was on the right side. This means that when you turn your work, the side edge will be at the end of the row.

First Decrease Row: ch4, skip 1ch-sp, *1dc in next dc, 1ch, skip next ch-sp; *rep until you have 3sts left, dc2tog wide in the last 3sts;
Second decrease Row: 3ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row;

Alternate these 2 rows until you complete the front panel; you will work 7 rows with the decrease pattern;

Sizes S, M, XL, 3XL, and 5XL

For these sizes, the last row before starting the decrease pattern was on the wrong side. This means that when you turn your work, the side edge will be at the beginning of the row.

First decrease Row: 3ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row;

Second Decrease Row: ch4, skip 1ch-sp, *1dc in next dc, 1ch, skip next ch-sp; *rep until you have 3sts left, dc2tog wide in the last 3sts;

Alternate these 2 rows until you complete the front panel; you will work 7 rows with the decrease pattern;

After finishing the rows with decreases, you will have in total 65 (66, 69, 71) (72, 75, 76, 79, 80) rows in mesh stitch pattern, plus one Color Block separating the line of two rows, one in single crochet and 1 in front post single crochet. This separating line counts as 1 mesh stitch row;

EDGING

Prior to starting work on the sleeves, we will first focus on the edges:

1. Begin by making the button band and the buttonhole band.
2. Proceed to the bottom hem for both the back and front panels.
3. Subsequently, address the side edges of the back and front panels as a single piece.

All the edges and collar will be worked using color D (contrasting color)

Button Band Edge

Before starting the button band, please decide which side you want the buttons on and which side will have the buttonholes.
In my sample, I chose to place the buttons on the right front panel.

The button edge will be worked across the front panel edge. For this, work 2 stitches into each side row. Use the first and last chain as references if you have a 3-chain, and the bottom and top of the stitch if you have a double crochet. For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video

Start in color D on the right side of your work
Rejoin the yarn into the first stitch of the front panel edge. This will be at the bottom of the front panel if you chose the right front panel, or at the top of the front panel if you chose the left.

R1: ch1, 1sc in each stitch across (2sc in each side row); 1ch and turn
R2: 1fpsc into each stitch across, 1ch and turn
R3-R5: 1sc in each st across.

Button Holes Edge

Start in color D on the right side of your work
Rejoin the yarn into the first stitch of the front panel edge. This will be at the top of the front panel if you chose the left front panel, or at the bottom of the front panel if you chose the left.

R1: ch1, 1sc in each stitch across (2sc in each side row); 1ch and turn
R2: 1fpsc into each stitch across, 1ch and turn
R3: 1sc in each st across.

At Row 4, we will make the buttonholes. But first, here are a few steps to follow to calculate how many stitches you will have between each buttonhole:

I used 0.5 cm diameter buttons and allowed only one stitch for each buttonhole. Adjust if you have larger buttons or if you think the button won’t fit through the hole.

1. Count the stitches on the buttonhole band: Determine the total number of stitches.
2. Mark the first and last buttonhole stitches: Decide where you want the first and last buttonholes.
3. Count the remaining stitches: Calculate the number of stitches between the first and last buttonholes.
4. Divide the remaining stitches by the number of buttons: This will give you the number of stitches between each buttonhole.
For example, if the result is12 stitches, use 1 stitch for each buttonhole and the remaining 11 stitches between buttonholes. If 1 stitch isn’t enough, you can use 2 stitches for each buttonhole, leaving 10 stitches between them.

Work the buttonholes as follows:

Chain the number of stitches required for the buttonhole and skip the same number of stitches.

R4: 1ch, 1sc up to the first button hole, 1ch (or 2ch, skip 1st (or 2sts) 1sc in next sts up to the next button hole; Rep. until you complete the row.

R5: 1sc in each st across;

Bottom Hem Back Panel and
Front Panels Edging

For the bottom hems, we will follow the same edging pattern as for the button band. There are a few details to consider when working the bottom hem edging:

1. Work into the side rows of the decrease pattern: The back and front panels are shaped at the bottom, so you will need to work the edging into the side rows of this pattern. Work 2sc in each side row;
2. Decrease next to the side edges: To keep the bottom hem in line with the side edges of the shirt, decrease next to the side edges as you work.
3. Accommodate the curved bottom hem: Since the bottom hem is curved, work 2 single crochets in the same stitch at every other row in the corners.
For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video

Bottom Hem Back Panel Edging

Work in color D
Start on the right side
Rejoin the yarn into the first st, right on the side edge. This stitch will be into the first side row of the decrease pattern;
R1: 1ch, sc2tog into the first 2sts (first side row)1, sc in each st across the side rows, 2sc into the corner st (place a st. marker into the first st of the increase), 1sc in each st until the last st, before the decrease pattern, 2sc into the next st (place a st marker into the second st of the increase), 1sc in each st across the side rows until you have 2sts left, sc2tog into the last 2sts. 1ch and turn
R2: sc2tog, 1fpsc in each st until you have 2sts left, sc2tog, 1ch and turn;
*remove and place the st marker into the correspondent stitch of this row
R3: sc2tog, 1sc in each st until the marked st, 2sc into the marked st (place the st marker into the first st of the increase), 1sc in each st until the next marked st, 2sc into the marked st (place the st marker into the second st of the increase), 1sc in each st until you have st left, sc2tog into the last 2sts, 1ch and turn;
R4: sc2tog, 1sc in each st until you have 2sts left, sc2tog;
*place the st markers into the correspondent sts
R5: rep. R3

Bottom Hem Front panels Edging

For the front panels edging we will work the same number of rows as follows:
R1: sc
R2: fpsc
R3-R5: sc
When working the front panels edging consider the same details explained above.

Side Edges

For the side edges of the shirt, we will work 2 rows in the contrasting color D:

Row 1: Single crochet (sc)
Row 2: Front post single crochet (fpsc)

Instructions:

Start working on the right side of the shirt.

Row 1:

Work 2 single crochets (sc) in each mesh stitch pattern side row.
Work 1 single crochet (sc) in each single crochet side row, as in the sc side rows of the bottom hem edges.
Begin this row from the bottom hem of one panel and continue across, ending at the bottom hem of the other panel.
Row 2:

Work front post single crochets (fpsc) across the row to complete the edging.
This will ensure a consistent and neat finish along the side edges of the shirt.
For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video

SLEEVES

To ensure that the shirt is even from the armpit to the bottom and that the sleeve stitches/side rows are correctly distributed across the front and back panels, follow these steps:

1. Align the Panels:

– Place the front panel and back panel one on top of the other;
– Ensure the bottom first stitch of the side edge of the front panel is directly on top of the bottom first stitch of the side edge of the back panel.
-Use a stitch marker to connect these two stitches to keep them aligned as you work.

2. Mark the Sleeve Width:

– Mark the desired width of the sleeve according to the measurements indicated in the pattern.

3. Count and Adjust Stitches:

– Count the stitches from the armpit to the bottom edge on both the front and back panels.
– Ensure you have the same number of stitches on both panels.
– Adjust accordingly to achieve symmetry.

Now that we have marked the sleeve stitches, we can start working on the sleeves. For this particular sample, I worked the right sleeve in color C and the left sleeve in color A.

Start on the right side and rwjoin yarn into the first marked st of the sleeve;
R1: ch4, skip next st, 1dc in next st, *1ch, skip next st, 1dc in next st; *rep. to the last st; ch4 and turn
R2: skip the first ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, *1ch, skip the next ch-sp, 1dc in next dc; *rep. to the end of the row; ch4 and turn;
R3-R20: rep. R2
*adjust the number of rows according with the desired length;

Sleeve Edging

Change to color D and work follow the Edging Pattern.

Work the bottom of the sleeve and the side edges

COLLAR

Work the collar into the contrasting color D
As preferred, you can include or not the button band.
Start working on the right side;
R1: 1sc in each st across the neckline
R2: 1fpsc in each st across;
R3-R20: 1sc in each st across.

ASSEMBLING

To assemble the shirt, we need to join the side edges, starting from the bottom hem, passing the armpit, and continuing along the sleeve length.

For this sample, I used slip stitches to join the side edges of the shirt.

For a more comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video

TO FINISH

– Sew on the buttons.
– Weave in all loose ends.
– Block the shirt to the specified measurements.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.

NEW!!! you can now purchase the PDF Written Pattern and the KIT here: Yarnsea.com

 

 

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