Bykaterina – Page 4

Crochet patterns August 4, 2023

Lindsay’s Bag. Free Crochet Pattern

I am delighted to share with you the Lindsay’s Bag Pattern. A few months ago, one of my YouTube subscribers, Lindsay, requested a bag tutorial from me. Unfortunately, my first attempt was unsuccessful as the design concept didn’t work in reality. Initially, I was ready to give up on the project, but I didn’t want to disappoint Lindsay. Although I still feel that the Lindsay’s Bag isn’t exactly what Lindsay had in mind, I am pleased with the final outcome and would like to share the pattern with you.

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You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

So today I am introducing Lindsay’s Crocheted Bag: Your Perfect Summer Accessory

Embrace the essence of summer fashion with Lindsay’s Crocheted Bag, a delightful blend of style and functionality. This charming bag is the ultimate companion for your sunny escapades, whether it’s a shopping spree, a day at the beach, or a leisurely stroll in the park. With its versatile design, you can be confident that you’ll have more than enough room for every occasion.

Let’s see what we will need and how we can make the Lindsay’s Bag.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: 2mm Macrame cord
• Crochet Hook:
o 4 mm crochet hook (or the size needed to meet the gauge)
• stitch markers (at least 4)
• 2 bag handles (optional)
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

Crafted with care and an eye for detail, this exquisite bag exudes elegance with its intricate crochet patterns, making it a true fashion statement. Its lightweight yet durable construction ensures it’s easy to carry around all day, no matter where your summer adventures take you.

The Lindsay’s Crocheted Bag perfectly complements any summer outfit, adding a touch of bohemian charm to your look. You can make it in any color to blend with various styles, making it a versatile accessory that matches any ensemble.
So, step into summer with confidence, grace, and the Lindsay’s Crocheted Bag by your side. Embrace the season’s spirit and make this stylish and functional accessory an indispensable part of your summer wardrobe. Get ready to create unforgettable memories with your new favorite bag!

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZE

The Lindsay’s Bag is written for one size, but you can customize it and make it in the size you want.

Final Measurements of the Lindsay’s Bag Width a: 43 cm
High b: 36 cm

YARN

I used 2mm macrame cord. Unfortunately, no brand is written on the label, but any 2mm macrame cord will work.

Each cake has 330 grams and 198 meters. For the bag in the size mentioned above, I used 2 cakes.

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – row
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using a 4mm crochet hook, working shell stitch pattern
4 pattern repets = 10 cm
9 rows = 10 cm

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

Lindsay’s Bag, has a seamless design worked in the round. This project has three distinct sections, resulting in a stunning bag combining style and practicality.

First, the foundation – an oval base made with single crochet stitches. This essential starting point ensures a sturdy and durable foundation for your bag, providing a solid base for all your belongings.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

Once the base is complete, we move on to the trunk. The trunk has three sections, each adding its unique charm to the bag’s overall design.

In Section 1, we continue with single crochet stitches, creating a smooth transition from the base while maintaining a consistent and elegant texture.

Section 2 is where the bag truly comes alive, showcasing a captivating shell stitch pattern. This eye-catching design adds a touch of sophistication and visual appeal, making your bag a true fashion statement.

Finally, in Section 3, we return to the tried-and-true single crochet stitches, ensuring a beautifully balanced and cohesive finish to your Lindsay’s Bag.

Shell Stitch Pattern

This shell stitch pattern requires a multipl of 3 sts, when working in the round
R1: 1ch, *1sc, ch3, skip the next 2sts. *rep. to the end of the round; ss into the first sc.
R2: 3ch, 1dc in the same st, 1sc into the next 3ch-sp, *3dc into the next sc, 1sc into the next 3ch-sp; *rep until the last 3ch-sp; close the round with 1dc in the first st and ss into the third ch.
R3: 1ch, *1sc, 3ch, skip (1dc, 1sc, 1dc); *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc.

Rep. R2 and R3.

PATTERN NOTES

– work the piece in the round, only on the right side;
– close each round with a slip stitch
– if the round starts with sc, ch1 at the beginning of the round; ch1 will not count as a first sc
– if the round starts with dc, ch3 at the beginning of the round; ch3 will count as first dc;
-the pattern includes a video tutorial;

HOW TO ADJUST THE SIZE

Step 1: Create a gauge swatch in the shell stitch pattern. This will help you determine the stitch count required for your desired bag size.

Step 2: Calculate the number of pattern repeats needed to achieve your desired bag width. Remember, each pattern repeat is a multiple of 3 stitches.

Step 3: Now, subtract 9 stitches from the total number calculated in Step 2. These 9 stitches account for the additional stitches added on one side after completing 4 rounds of increases. If you opt for more rounds of increases, adjust the subtraction accordingly. The final number obtained will be the foundation chain count.

Step 4: Add 2 more stitches to the foundation chain count to set the stage for your project. These two stitches will be used for creating the increases. The result will give you the exact number of stitches to begin your project with.

Following these straightforward steps, you can craft a bag tailored to your preferred size. Whether you envision a compact purse or a more spacious tote, these adjustments will ensure your bag perfectly accommodates your needs.

With the freedom to customize and the beauty of the shell stitch pattern, your bag will be functional and an exquisite expression of your unique style.

INSTRUCTIONS

BASE

Start: ch41
R1: ch1, 1sc in next 40sts, 3sc in next, turn on the other side of the ch, 1sc in next 39sts, 2sc into the first st, ss ino the first sc (90sc)

You can use 4st markers to marke the middle section, 39 sts on each side.

R2:1ch, 2sc in next st, 1sc in next 39 sts, 2sc in next 3sts, 1sc in next 39 sts, 2sc in the last 2sts. (102sts)

R3: 1ch, 1sc in next st, 2sc in next, 1sc in next 39 sts, (1sc in next, 2sc in next) x 3 times, 1sc in next 39 sts, (1sc in next, 2sc in next) x 2 times; (114sts)

R4: 1ch, 2sc, 1sc in next 2sts, 1sc in next 39 sts, (2sc in next st, 1sc in next 2sts) x 3 times, 1sc in next 39 sts, (2sc in next st, 1sc in next 2sts) x 2 times, (126sts)

TRUNK

We will continue to count from the last round of the base

R5: 1ch, 1sc in each st around
R6 – R10: Rep. R5
R7: 1ch, 1sc, 3ch skip 2sts, *1sc in next st, 3ch, skip 2sts; *rep. to the end of the round; ss into the first sc.
R8: 3ch, 1dc in the same st, 1sc into the next 3ch-sp, *3dc in next sc, 1sc in next 3ch-sp; *rep. until the last 3ch-sp; close the round with 1dc into the first st and ss into the third ch.
R9: 1ch, 1sc, 3ch, skip (1dc, 1sc, 1dc), *1sc n next dc, 3ch, skip (1dc, 1sc, 1dc); *rep to the end of the round;ss into the first sc.
R10: rep. R8
R11 – R28: rep. R9 and R10
R29: 1ch, 1sc, 2ch, skip (1dc, 1sc, 1dc), *1sc n next dc, 2ch, skip (1dc, 1sc, 1dc); *rep to the end of the round; ss into the first sc.
R30 – 34: 1sc in each st around.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

TO FINISH

Weave in the ends and sew the handles.

That was it. You now have a beautiful bag to complete your summer outfit.

Crochet patterns July 19, 2023

Pride Summer Sweater. Free Crochet Pattern

I am delighted to share the Pride Summer Sweater Pattern, which has been highly requested. This new design reaffirmed my belief that following my creative instincts without planning can yield great results. I am thrilled with the outcome of this sweater and anticipate wearing it frequently.

In fact, I love it so much that I have already begun making another one in a lovely blue hue. Although I had intended to work on this project while on vacation, it has been difficult to put down. I may even make a third sweater using the same yarn as the sample, as I had to redo the yoke for a video tutorial and it feels wrong not to finish it.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

Now, let’s begin and dive into the pattern.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: DK-weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 4 mm crochet hook
• stitch markers
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

Introducing the Pride Summer Sweater! This top-down crochet design is worked in circular rounds on the right side. We begin with the yoke, then divide for the sleeves and body.

With its relaxed fit, this sweater is perfect for casual wear. The main stitch used is triple crochet, keeping things simple yet stylish. What’s unique is that the raglan increases are done individually on the body and sleeves. This allows you to customize the circumference of each part to your liking.

To give the sweater a polished finish, we’ll incorporate a combination of Front Post double crochet and back post double crochet stitches for the neckline, cuffs, and bottom hem. This technique creates a ribbed effect, adding texture and a professional touch.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Pride Summer Blouse pattern is available in 9 sizes, XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL).

Final Measurements of the Pride Summer Sweater
– Neckline a:26 cm (26, 26, 26, 26) (27, 27, 27, 27)
– Armhole depth b: 17 cm (19, 19, 21, 23) (25, 29, 31, 33)
– Bust circ. c: 97 cm (103, 109, 115, 122) (131, 143, 152, 161)
– Sleeve circ. d: 39cm (40, 42, 44, 50) (53, 55, 59, 61);
Sleeve length. e: 37 cm (37, 39, 39, 40) (40, 41, 41, 41)
– Length f: 44 cm (46, 46, 48, 52) (54, 60, 62, 64)

YARN

For the Pride Summer Sweater I used: Pride by Wool Addicts, in color 1090; Yarn composition: 40% Linen, 32% Cotton, 28% Viscose; Each ball has 100 grams and is approximately 280meters
For each size, you will about need:
660 (700, 760, 820, 950) (1030, 1200, 1290, 1380) meters
3 (3, 3, 3, 4) (4, 5, 5, 5) balls.

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet
bpdc – back post double crochet
tr – triple crochet
fptr – front post triple crochet
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – row
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using a 4mm crochet hook working in triple crochet

13tr = 10 cm
5 rows = 10 cm

Note: all the gauge measurements are taken after wet blocking and it is measured flat. When wearing, the gauge might be slightly different.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The construction technique used for this sweater is called a rectangle yoke. It means that the yoke part of the sweater is divided into four sections: the front, the back panel, and the sleeves, with four raglan lines separating them.

To shape the sweater, we make increases on each side of each raglan line. This allows us to decide how many stitches to increase for the sleeves and how many for the body of the sweater. We can also choose not to increase stitches for certain sections, like the sleeves, while still increasing stitches for the other sections.

To mark the raglan lines, we will use front post triple crochet stitches, although regular triple crochet stitches can be used as well.

The main stitch used for the Pride Summer Sweater is the triple crochet stitch. For a neat and finished look, we will incorporate a combination of Front Post double crochet and back post double crochet stitches for the neckline, cuffs, and bottom hem.

PATTERN NOTES

– work the piece in the round, only on the right side;
– each round we will start with the right back panel raglan line and it will finish with the last increase of the second sleeve (or the last stitch if no increases are required)
– To begin the round with a front post triple crochet, first, pull the working loop slightly higher. Then, work the front post triple crochet around the stitch one round below. When going around the stitch, make sure to go around not only the front post triple crochet itself but also the loose starting loop;
– to close the round slip stitch into the loose starting loop;

INSTRUCTIONS

NECKLINE RIBBING

Start: ch 108 (108, 108, 108, 108) (116, 116, 116, 116) sts; close with a ss to make a circle
R1: 3ch (counts as first dc), 1dc in each st around; ss into the third ch;
R2: 3ch (counts as a bpdc), 1fpdc in next st, *1bpdc in next st, 1fpdc in next st; *rep. to the end of the round; ss into the third ch
R3 – R4: Rep. R2

YOKE

The instructions below include stitch charts. the Stitch chart is showing a section of the yoke that will help visualize how to work the increases before and after the raglan line

YOKE SIZES XS and S

R1: *1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 27sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 17sts, 2tr in next 2sts*; reo from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 35; sleeves 25

R2: 1fptr, 2tr into the next st 1tr in next 33sts, 2tr into the next st, 1fptr, 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 23sts, 2tr in next st*; rep.from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 37; sleeves 27

R3: *1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 33sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 23sts, 2tr in next 2sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 41; sleeves 31

R4: 1fptr, 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 39sts, 2tr into the next st, 1fptr, 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 29sts, 2tr in next st*; rep.from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 43; sleeves 33

R5: *1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 39sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 29sts, 2tr in next 2sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 47; sleeves 37

Size XS only

R6: *1fptr, 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 45sts, 2tr into the next st, 1fptr, 1tr in next 37sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 49; sleeves 37

R7: *1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 39sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr, 1tr in next 37sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 53; sleeves 37

For size XS the YOKE is done; Move to the BODY section

Size S only

R6: 1fptr, 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 45sts, 2tr into the next st, 1fptr, 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 35sts, 2tr in next st*; rep.from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 49; sleeves 39

R7: *1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 45sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr, 1tr in next 39sts*; rep.from * to * one more time to complete the round;

Total sts: front and back panels 53; sleeves 39

R8: *1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 49sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr, 1tr in next 39sts*; rep.from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 57; sleeves 39

For size S the YOKE is done; Move to the BODY section.

YOKE SIZES M and L

R2: *1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts 1tr in next 31sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 23sts, 2tr in next st*; rep.from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 39; sleeves 27

R3: *1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 35sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 23sts, 2tr in next 2sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 43; sleeves 31

R4: *1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts 1tr in next 39sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 29sts, 2tr in next st*; rep.from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 47; sleeves 33

R5: *1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 43sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 29sts, 2tr in next 2sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 51; sleeves 37

R6: *1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts 1tr in next 47sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 35sts, 2tr in next st*; rep.from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 55; sleeves 39

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

Size M only

R7: *1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts 1tr in next 51sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 37sts, 2tr in next st*; rep.from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 59; sleeves
41

R8:*1fptr, 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 57sts, 2tr into the next st, 1fptr, 1tr in next 41sts*; rep.from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 61; sleeves
41

For size M the YOKE is done; Move to the BODY section.

Size L Only

R7: *1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 51sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 35sts, 2tr in next 2sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 59; sleeves 43

R8: *1fptr, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1tr in next 55sts, 2tr into the next 2sts, 1fptr, 1tr in next 43sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 63; sleeves 43

R9: *1fptr, 2tr into the next st, 1tr in next 61sts, 2tr into the next st, 1fptr, 1tr in next 43sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round;
Total sts: front and back panels 65; sleeves 43

For size L the YOKE is done; Move to the BODY section.

YOKE Sizes XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL

R1: *1fptr, 2tr in the next st, 1tr in next 29 (31, 31, 31, 31) sts, 2tr in next st, 1fptr, 2tr in next 2sts, 1tr in next 17 (19, 19, 19, 19) sts, 2tr in next 2sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 33 (35, 35, 35, 35); sleeves 25 (27, 27, 27, 27)

R2: *1fptr, 2tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in next 29 (31, 31, 31, 31) sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 23 (25, 25, 25, 25) sts, 2tr in next st*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 37 (39, 39, 39, 39); sleeves 27 (29, 29, 29, 29)

R3: *1fptr, 2tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in next 33 (35, 35, 35, 35) sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr in next 2sts, 1tr in next 23 (25, 25, 25, 25) sts, 2tr in next 2sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 41 (43, 43, 43, 43); sleeves 31 (33,33, 33, 33)

R4: *1fptr, 2tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in next 37 (39, 39, 39, 39) sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 29 (31, 31, 31, 31) sts, 2tr in next st*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 45 (47, 47, 47, 47); sleeves 33 (35, 35, 35,35)

R5: *1fptr, 2tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in next 41 (43, 43, 43, 43) sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr in next 2sts, 1tr in next 29 (31, 31, 31, 31) sts, 2tr in next 2sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 49 (51, 51, 51, 51); sleeves 37 (39,39, 39, 39)

R6: *1fptr, 2tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in next 45 (47, 47, 47, 47) sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 35 (37, 37, 37, 37) sts, 2tr in next st*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 53 (55, 55, 55, 55); sleeves 39 (41, 41, 41, 41)

R7: *1fptr, 2tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in next 49 (51, 51, 51, 51) sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr in next 2sts, 1tr in next 35 (37,37,37,37) sts, 2tr in next 2sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 57 (59, 59, 59, 59); sleeves 43 (45,45, 45, 45)

R8: *1fptr, 2tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in next 53 (55, 55, 55, 55) sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 41 (43, 43, 43, 43) sts, 2tr in next st*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 61 (63, 63, 63, 63); sleeves 45 (47, 47, 47, 47) sts

R9: *1fptr, 2tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in next 57 (59, 59, 59, 59) sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr in next 2sts, 1tr in next 41 (43, 43, 43, 43) sts, 2tr in next 2sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 65 (67, 67, 67, 67); sleeves 49 (51,51, 51, 51)

R10: *1fptr, 2tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in next 61 (63, 63, 63, 63) sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 47 (49, 49, 49, 49) sts, 2tr in next st*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 69 (71, 71, 71, 71); sleeves 51 (53, 53, 53, 53) sts

For size XL the YOKE is done; Move to the BODY section.

Sizes 2XL (3XL, 4XL, 5XL) only

R11: *1fptr, 2tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in next 67 sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 51 sts, 2tr in next st*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 75; sleeves 55 sts
For size 2XL the YOKE is done; Move to the BODY section.

Sizes 3XL (4XL, 5XL) only

R12: *1fptr, 2tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in next 71 sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 53 sts, 2tr in next st*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 79; sleeves 57 sts

Size 3XL only

R13: *1fptr, 2tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in next 75 sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr, 1tr in next 57 sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 83; sleeves 57 sts
For size 3XL the YOKE is done; Move to the BODY section.

Sizes 4XL and 5XL only

R13: *1fptr, 2tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in next 75 sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 55 sts, 2tr in next st*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 83; sleeves 59 sts

R14: *1fptr, 2tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in next 79 sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next 57 sts, 2tr in next st*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 87; sleeves 61 sts

Size 5XL only
R15: *1fptr, 2tr in the next 2sts, 1tr in next 83 sts, 2tr in next 2sts, 1fptr, 1tr in next 61 sts*; rep from * to * one more time to complete the round.
Total sts: front and back panels 91; sleeves 61 sts
For size 4XL and 5XL the YOKE is done; Move to the BODY section.

Before splitting into sleeves and body, let’s summarize the yoke number of sts:

Front and Back Panels:
53 (57, 61, 65, 69) (75, 83, 87, 91) sts

Sleeves:
37 (39, 41, 43, 51) (55, 57, 61, 61) sts

At this stitch count, we will add the 4 raglan lines. When splitting the yoke, the raglan lines will go into the body section.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

BODY
Splitting Round

Start from where your yarn is
Ch4 (counts as first tr), 1tr in each of the next sts until the next raglan line, 1tr into the raglan line, ch 10 (10, 10, 10, 10) (10, 10, 12, 14) sts, skip the sleeve sts up to the next raglan line, 1tr in the raglan fptr, 1tr in each sts until the next raglan line, 1tr into the raglan line, ch 10 (10, 10, 10, 10) (10, 10, 12, 14) sts skip the sleeve sts and join with a ss into the 4th chain.

BODY

R1: ch4, 1tr in each st around (including the armpit chain sts.) Close the round with ss into the 4th chain.

Rep. R1 until you get to the desired length or until you have 12 (12, 12, 12, 13) (13, 14, 14, 14) rounds.

Finish the BODY section with the RIBBING.

SLEEVES

Please note that the sleeves have two connecting points with the body, where you should work sts into the body side row (the splitting round) to prevent any gaps. In this specific design, I used tr2tog twice at each of these points, resulting in an additional four stitches on each

R1: rejoin yarn at the armpit
ch4, 1tr in each st around (consider the notes above).
Continue to work 1tr in each st until you get to the desired length, or until you have 17 (17, 18, 18, 19) (19, 20, 20, 20) rounds.

Finish the sleeves with the RIBBING.

RIBBING

You can use for RIbbing a smaller crochet hook (3.5 or 3mm)
R1: 3ch (counts as a bpdc), 1fpdc in next st, *1bpdc in next st, 1fpdc in next st; *rep. to the end of the round; ss into the third ch
R2 – R4: Rep. R1

TO FINISH

Weave in all the ends and block to measurements.

And that was it. I hope you enjoy this patter and I can’t wait to see your Pride Summer Sweater.

Crochet patterns June 20, 2023

Desire Dress. Free Crochet Pattern

Welcome back to our crochet tutorial! Today, I’m excited to share with you the process of making the stunning Desire Dress. This project was quite a challenge for me, but I’m thrilled with how it turned out.

Let me tell you the backstory of how this dress came to be. Back in February, a friend sent me a photo of a non-crocheted dress and expressed her desire for a crocheted version. Without hesitation, I accepted the challenge. I studied the photo carefully, figured out the motif placement and dress construction, and started working with the yarn I had on hand.

After completing the waistline on my first sample, I felt confident to move forward and create the dress for my friend. She requested it in black, which I knew would be challenging to film in a tutorial. As I worked on the length of the dress, I encountered some difficulties and had to undo my work several times. Despite the challenges, I persevered and completed the dress. However, I still had a nagging feeling that something wasn’t quite right with it.

I made another sample using leftover yarn to create a tutorial for this dress. As I joined the motifs and filmed the tutorial, I finally realized what was wrong with the previous dress construction. With this newfound knowledge, I started a final sample, which I’m excited to share today.

I know that you are so curious to see the pattern that I will jump in 🙂

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size 1, Super Fine (Fingering) weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 3.5 mm crochet hook
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Desire Dress design has a modular construction. Each circle motif is crocheted individually, and the final round serves as the joining element, seamlessly connecting them.

The beauty of this design lies in its versatility. You can customize the length by joining the motifs from top to bottom according to your preference. Whether you envision a stylish top, a trendy tunic, or an elegant maxi dress, this pattern accommodates all three versions flawlessly. Moreover, the dress’s sleeves can be tailored to your liking, allowing you to choose between short, 3/4, or long sleeves.

As you progress to the waist length, an additional round is introduced to the motifs, enhancing the dress’s width around the hips. This thoughtful detail adds a flattering silhouette and ensures a comfortable fit.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Desire Dress pattern is written in 4 sizes, sizes S, M, L, and XL, but you will find tips on adjusting the size.

Final Measurements of the Desire Dress
Neck width* a: 23 cm (26, 28, 30)
Bust width b: 43 cm (48.5, 53, 57)
Hips and bottom width c: 53 cm (60, 65, 70)
**Sleeve length d: 64cm (72, 78, 84)
Sleeve circ. e: 28 cm (32, 35, 38)
***Length f: 140 cm (157, 172, 185)
*The neck width is measured across the back panel; it can be adjusted if you work more rounds on the neckline and make a few decreases
**the sleeve length it’s measured from the shoulder and includes the same number of motifs as for size S; it can be adjusted and make it shorter by working less motifs
*** The length is measured from the back of the neck and includes same number of motifs for all sizes; it can be adjusted and make the dress shorter, by working less motifs rounds;

YARN
For the Desire Dress, I used: Catona by Scheepjes; Yarn composition: 100% mercerized cotton; Each ball has 50 grams and is approximately 125 meters
Color 105 – Bridal White
For each size, you will about need:
1650 (1840, 2270, 2450)
The amount of yarn is calculated for the maxi version, considering the same number of motifs for all sizes;

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
ss – slip stitch
tsc – twisted single crochet
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – round
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using a 3.5mm crochet hook working 1 motif for the corresponding size
Size S: 1 motif = 14.5 cm
Size M: 1 motif: 16 cm
Size L: 1 motif: 17.5 cm
Size XL: 1 Motif = 19 cm

The motifs are measured in diameter

For a comprehensive guide to constructing the dress, refer to the PDF version of this pattern, which includes a detailed stitch chart for every step. The PDF is available for purchase at the provided links below:

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The Desire Dress showcases a combination of stitch patterns. The motifs are created using a simple stitch pattern, incorporating double crochet stitches for the initial rounds, followed by a mesh stitch pattern for the final three or four rounds, depending on the size.

The mesh stitch pattern is created using single crochet and chain stitches.
When working on the dress, you have the flexibility to choose between two approaches. You can either complete multiple motifs individually and join them at the end, or opt for joining them as you progress.

Each size has a unique motif design while maintaining the same stitches. The larger sizes incorporate additional double crochet or mesh stitch rounds to accommodate the sizing requirements.

To customize the length of the dress, the motifs are joined from top to bottom, allowing for adjustments based on your preferences and the size of each motif. Additionally, if further length is desired, the mesh stitch pattern can be utilized to extend it. The pattern provides comprehensive details on this process.

For a more comprehensive understanding, please refer to the pattern below, which includes further instructions and guidelines.

HOW TO ADJUST THE DESIRE DRESS PATTERN SO IT CAN FIT YOUR BODY

The Desire Dress design takes into account your bust measurements as a reference for creating the perfect fit. To ensure you achieve the desired result, please follow the steps below:

Step 1: Using a measuring tape, accurately measure your bust.
Step 2: Divide the measurement by 2 to obtain the bust width, which will serve as the reference for starting your dress.
Step 3: Select the yarn and hook size that you prefer for the dress.
Step 4: The bust width should be covered by three motifs joined together. Within this pattern, you will find different motif patterns to choose from. If you opt for a thinner yarn and a smaller hook size, you may need a larger motif to cover the same size effectively.
Step 5: Once you have decided on the pattern for your motif, you are ready to proceed by following the sketches and instructions provided below.

One crucial consideration, especially if you wish to incorporate a different stitch pattern for the motifs, is that the last round of each motif should consist of a multiple of 6 chain spaces. Each circle within the motif will have 6 equal segments around it, enabling seamless joining with other motifs.

Upon reaching the waist length, the motifs are expanded by adding an extra round, serving as a joining round. If you require additional width, you can add another round while maintaining the 6 equal segments. If you have already joined the motifs up to the waistline with 4 chain spaces on each join, continue using the same number of spaces for joining.

PATTERN NOTES

– Each motif is worked in the round exclusively on the right side.
– The 2 chain stitches at the beginning of a double crochet round do not count as the first double crochet.
– The 1 chain stitch at the beginning of a round starting with single crochet does not count as the first double crochet.
– The last round of a motif serves as the joining round, which you will work on while joining the motifs together.

– To increase the width around the hips, add an extra round. In this particular pattern, the last round for all motifs of all sizes is 1 single crochet, 5 chain stitches*. This round will be used for joining (more details in the pattern). When you want to increase the width, work the joining round as the last round of the motif and add an extra round for joining, which will be 1 single crochet, 7 chain stitches.

INSTRUCTIONS

MOTIF PATTERN SIZE S

Start: make a magic ring
R1: 2ch, 12dc inside the ring; ss into the first dc;
R2: 2ch, 2dc in each st around; ss into the first dc (24 dc)
R3: 2ch, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc. (36 dc);
R4: 2ch, *1dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc. (48 dc)
R5: 1ch, *1sc, 4ch, skip 1 st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc (24 4ch-sps)
R6: 2ss to start the round from the first 4ch-sp; 1ch, *1sc into the next 4ch-sp, 4ch; rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc (24 4ch-sps).

MOTIF PATTERN SIZE L

Start: make a magic ring
R1: 2ch, 12dc inside the ring; ss into the first dc;
R2: 2ch, 2dc in each st around; ss into the first dc (24 dc)
R3: 2ch, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc. (36 dc);
R4: 2ch, *1dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc. (48 dc)
R5: 2ch, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next 3sts; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc; (60 sts)
R6: 1ch, *1sc, 4ch, skip 1 st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc (30 4ch-sps)
R7: 2ss to start the round from the first 4ch-sp; 1ch, *1sc into the next 4ch-sp, 4ch; rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc (30 4ch-sps).

MOTIF PATTERN SIZE XL

Start: make a magic ring
R1: 2ch, 12dc inside the ring; ss into the first dc;
R2: 2ch, 2dc in each st around; ss into the first dc (24 dc)
R3: 2ch, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc. (36 dc);
R4: 2ch, *1dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc. (48 dc)
R5: 2ch, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next 3sts; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc; (60 sts)
R6: 1ch, *1sc, 4ch, skip 1 st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc (30 4ch-sps)
R7: 2ss to start the round from the first 4ch-sp; 1ch, *1sc into the next 4ch-sp, 4ch; rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc (30 4ch-sps).
R8: Rep. R7

HOW TO JOIN THE MOTIFS

We will utilize the last round for joining the motifs together. The joining segments will consist of 4 spaces for sizes S and M, and 5 spaces for sizes L and XL.

In the last round, the pattern is 1 single crochet, 5 chain stitches (1sc, 5ch). We will use these 5 chain stitches to join the current motif with one or more motifs.

Always ensure that the motif you are currently working on is facing the right side, while the motif you are joining is facing the wrong side.

To initiate a joining round, follow these steps:

Step 1: After making the first single crochet in the round, ch2.
Step 2: Insert your hook into the 4-ch-sp of motif B and work a sc.
Step 3: Ch2 and proceed to the next 4-chsp of motif A, making a single crochet.

Repeat this process until you have joined 4 4-ch-sps (for sizes S and M) or 5 4-ch-sp (for sizes L and XL).

If you need to join with another motif, simply repeat the process for an additional 4 (or 5) 4-chain spaces.

Once you have completed the joining, continue working the round as follows: Chain 5, *1 sc into the next 4-ch-sp, ch5; repeat from * until you finish the round.

If you require additional width, such as for the length after the waistline, you will work the motifs with the joining round as the last round. This means that you will need to work one more round, repeating the pattern: 1 single crochet in the next 4-chain space, followed by 5 chain stitches.

For the joining round, you will use 7 chain stitches. The steps for joining will remain the same, with the only difference being that you will chain 3 instead of 2.

After familiarizing yourself with the process of creating and joining the motifs, you are now ready to construct the dress.

Below, you will find a sketch illustrating the joining pattern for the front and back panels, as well as the sleeves. Please note that the sketch depicts the motifs in a flat layout, but they will be joined in the round (with a single round for both the back and front panels).

This visual reference will provide you with a clear understanding of how the motifs come together to form the different sections of the dress.

By following the sketch and utilizing the knowledge you have gained, you can confidently proceed with building the dress, ensuring a beautiful and well-fitted final result.

The top part of the dress holds significant importance in its construction. Once you have successfully completed this section, working on the length and sleeves will become relatively easier.

Once you have successfully completed the top part, proceed to work on the desired length of the dress. You can follow the instructions provided earlier in the pattern for adjusting the length according to your preference.

Similarly, when you are ready to tackle the sleeves, utilize the knowledge and techniques you have gained thus far to determine the desired length and style. You can refer to the instructions for customizable sleeve lengths and follow them accordingly.

SLEEVES

The sleeves of the dress consist of two motifs in circumference.

To begin the sleeves, the first two motifs will be joined with the shoulder and the front and back panels, seamlessly integrating them into the overall design.

In the sample I worked on, I completed a total of three rounds for each sleeve, with two motifs in each round. For the final round, I increased the width of the motifs to create a flared appearance, adding a touch of elegance to the sleeves.

Note: at the armpit, after joining the sleeves, a whole will remain. Please refer to the video tutorial to see how to fill those holes

FINISHING THE EDGES

The dress will end up with wavy edges because of the circles. But we will make them straight.
This is an important step, especially for the neckline. Working this border will allow us to make some decreases as well if we want a narrower neckline

To ensure a polished finish, we need to fill the gaps between the motifs for all the edges, including the neckline, sleeves, and bottom hem. Follow these steps to achieve a seamless result:

For the following instructions, let’s consider Motif A as the motif on the right and Motif B as the motif on the left.

Row 1: Begin by rejoining the yarn into the second 4-chain space of Motif A, counting from the join to the right. Make 1 chain stitch (1ch), then work 1 single crochet (1sc) into the 5-chain space. Chain 2 (ch2) and make 1sc into the next 5-chain space of Motif A. Next, work 5 chain stitches (5ch) and make 1sc into the first 5-chain space after the joining of Motif B. Chain 2 (2ch) and make 1sc into the next 5-chain space of Motif B. Turn.

Row 2: Chain 5 (5ch), make 1sc into the next 5-chain space, chain 5 (5ch), and slip stitch (ss) into the next single crochet (sc) (the first one you made after joining the yarn). Chain 2 (2ch) and make 1sc into the next 5-chain space of Motif A. Turn.

Row 3: Repeat the sequence (5ch, 1sc into the next 5-chain space) two times, then work 5 chain stitches (5ch) and make 1sc into the next 5-chain space of Motif B.

Fasten off and cut the yarn.

Repeat these steps to fill all the gaps between the two motifs. Please note that when working on the sleeves and bottom, where the last round motifs have 7 chain stitches, you will need to chain 7 instead of 5.

NECKLINE EDGE

Rejoin yarn in one of the 5ch-sps.
Round 1: 1ch, 1sc, 3ch, *1sc into the next 5ch-sp, 3ch; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc.

Note: if you want to decrease even more, and make the neckline smaller, you can add one more round following the pattern 1sc into the next *3ch-sp, 2ch.

Round 2: 1ch, 3sc in each 3ch-sp.
Round 3: 1ch, 1sc in each st
Round 4: rep. Round 3
Round 4: 1tsc (twisted single crochet) in each st around.

SLEEVES AND BOTTOM EDGES

If you need to add more length to these parts of the dress:

Rejoin yarn in one of the 5ch-sps.
Round 1: 1ch, 1sc, 7ch, *1sc into the next 5ch-sp, 3ch; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc.
Round 2: ss into the next 7ch-sp, 1ch, 1sc, 7ch, *1sc in next 7ch-sp, 7ch. *rep until the end of the round
Rep. Round 2 to the desired length

Finishing the edge

Round 1: ss into the next 7ch-sp, 1ch, 1sc, 4ch, *1sc in next 7ch-sp, 4ch. *rep until the end of the round
Round 2: 1ch, 1sc in each st around (1sc into the sc sts, 4sc into the 4ch-sp.)
Round 3: 1ch, 1sc in each st
Round 4: rep. Round 3
Round 4: 1tsc (twisted single crochet) in each st around.

TO FINISH

Weave in all the ends and block to measurements.

You can also find a video tutorial to guide you through the process of making the Desire Dress here