Deity Wall Hanger
You know that when it’s about yarn, I am a “no waste” person. I don’t like to see in my stash single skeins of yarn or left over’s and I try to find a project for each single meter of yarn that I have.
And this is how the Deity Wall Hanger came out! I had the metal ring for couple of years now and I finally put some yarn on it and I am so happy that I did.
Plus, my daughter love her Sun and very proud she hung it on the wall in her room saying: “From now on, no more cloudy days!”
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I am so happy that she loves it, even if at first I wanted this Wall Hanger for my creative corner so now I have a reason to hook up another one.
So, If you want to make one and to have a Sun in your home all day long with all it’s positive energy, here is what you will need and how to make a Deity Wall Hanger
Materials you will need
- Yarn
- Category 1 (fingering, Super Fine, 4 ply)
- Crochet Hook
- 5 mm (E US size)
- You will need a yarn needle for wave in ends
- Metal ring (25 cm diameter)
Pattern notes
This Deity Wall Hanger Patter features techniques like single crochet, single crochet increase, single crochet decrease and working in rounds.
First, is worked the main circle and then the triangle rounds by working each triangle individual.
The main circle is worked in rounds, joining each round with a slip stitch
After completing the entire piece, is attached to the metal ring using single crochet stitches.
At the end the fringe are added
Final measurements
Final measurements of the Deity Wall hanger are given by the metal ring dimensions. It will have 25 cm in diameter.
How much yarn do you need?
I used to make this Deity Wall Hanger Fair Cotton by Katia in colors Mustard and light yellow. You will need less than 1 ball of each color. From 1 ball of each color I made 2.
It’s a perfect project if you have some left over yarn from other projects.
You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:
You can now have the PDF version with 20% Discount or even for FREE if you want to support ByKaterina on Patreon
About the stitch pattern.
To make this cute Deity Wall Hanger you will need to know only single crochet stitches being a perfect project for beginners.
Abbreviations used in this pattern
- Ch – chain
- Sc – single crochet
- Ss – slip stitch
- Sc2tog – 2 single crochet worked together: insert the hook into next st, yarn over pull out a loop, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through all 3 loops on your hook.
- R| – row/round
- ** – Repeated section
Gauge
After 7 rounds of single crochet the main circle measures 5 cm
After round 1 of triangles the motif measures 10 cm.
Pattern Notes
Ch 1 at the beginning of each round or row do not count as a stitch.
Instructions
Main Circle
Using Mustard
To make the main circle of the Deity Wall Hanger, you can follow the chart or the written pattern below.
Start| make a magic ring
R1| ch 1, 5 sc inside the ring. Join with a ss with first sc.
R2| ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join with a ss with 1st sc. (10 sc)
R3| ch 1, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next. *Repeat 5 time to the end of the round. Join with a ss with 1st sc (15 sc)
R4| ch 1, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts. *Repeat 5 times to the end of the round. Join with a ss with 1st sc. (20 sc)
R5| ch 1, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts. *Repeat 5 times to the end of the round. Join with a ss with 1st sc. (25 sc)
R6| ch 1, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts. *Repeat 5 times to the end of the round. Ss with 1st sc. (30 sc)
R7| ch 1, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts. *Repeat 5 times to the end of the round. Ss with 1st sc.
Round 1 of triangles
Each triangle will have a base of 5 sc. Each triangle is worked individually. At the end of the round you will have 7 triangles.
Triangle
R1| ch 1, 1 sc in next 5 sts, ch 1 and turn.
R2| sc2tog, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 1 and turn
R3| sc2tog, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 1 and turn
R4| sc2tog, 1 sc in next ts, ch 1 and turn
R5| sc2tog
Ss in each side row sc, on the side of triangle to get to the base round.
Repeat the pattern for the triangle all around. You will have 7 triangles in total. You will end the round of triangles in the top of last triangle. You don’t have to make the ss.
Round 2 of triangles.
Base Round
Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st, ch 9, *1 sc in the top st of next triangle, ch 9. *Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a ss with first sc.
Triangles round
Repeat the pattern for triangles for the first round. You will have at the end of this round 14 triangles, 2 triangles between each 2 triangles from the previous round.
At the end of this round of triangles we will change the color. Change the color by finishing the last st of the last triangle using light yellow or the second color you will want to use.
Round 3 of triangles
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Base Round (light yellow)
Ch 1, 1 sc In the same st, ch 6, *1sc in the top st of the next triangle, ch 6. * Repeat to the end of the round. Ss in 1st sc.
Triangle
On this round of triangle, the base of one triangle will have 7 sts.
R1| ch 1, 1 sc in next 7 sts, ch 1 and turn
R2| sc2tog, 1 sc in next 5 sts, ch 1 and turn
R3| sc2tog, 1 sc in next 4 sts, ch 1 and turn
R4| sc2tog, 1 sc in next 3 sts, ch 1 and turn
R5| sc2tog, 1 sc in next 2 sts, ch 1 and turn
R6| sc2tog, 1 sc in next st, ch 1 and turn
R7| sc2tog
Ss on the side of the triangle, 1 ss in each sc side row.
Repeat the pattern for the triangle for the entire round. You will end up with 14 triangles. Finish the round of triangles with the top st of last triangle
Edging
R1| ch 1, 1 sc in the same st, ch 8, *1 sc in the top st of the next triangle, ch 8. Repeat to the end of the round. Ss into 1st sc.
R2| ch 1, *2sc in first sc, 1 sc in each of the next 8 ch sts. *Repeat to the end of the round.
Notes
At this stage you can cut the yarn and block the piece and attach it to the metal ring after blocking.
You can attach the piece to the ring without blocking, and in this case you don’t have to fasten off.
Assembling (attaching the crocheted piece to the metal ring)
Place the metal ring over the crocheted piece. Insert the hook into next available stitch, under the metal ring, yarn over, bring the loop in front, yarn over, with hook over the metal ring, and pull the yarn through the loops on your hook finishing the single crochet stitch. Repeat all around, working 1 sc in each st, over the metal ring.
At the end of the round, join with a ss with 1st sc.
Fringe
The fringe are attached into each st between 3 triangles. Alternate 2 fringe with one color and 2 with the other color.
Cut 2 strands of yarn of around 60 – 70 cm. Fold them in half. With a crochet hook, insert the loop into the wall hanger stitch, grab the ends and pull them through the fringe loop and tie. Repeat until you complete the entire section.
To finish, trim the fringe at the desired length.
Hanger chain
The chain used to hang the wall hanger can be made after you finished the round in single crochet made to attach the crocheted piece on the metal ring, or at the end.
Make sure that you make this chain into the correspondent sts on the top of the wall hanger.
Rejoin yarn, or start from where your yarn is, ch 55 to 60 sts or as many sts as you want, and join with a sc stitch with the correspondent st, after 2 triangles (the hanger cord has to be anchored at the same distance as the width of the fringe section). Fasten off
To finish
Wave in all ends. In case you want your fringe to be nice and straight you can steam them or iron.
And done! A cute Wall Hanger or Dream Catcher to brighten your home!
You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:
You can now have the PDF version with 20% Discount or even for FREE if you want to support ByKaterina on Patreon
You can also find a step by step video tutorial here:
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)
