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Bykaterina

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Welcome back to our crochet tutorial! Today, I’m excited to share with you the process of making the stunning Desire Dress. This project was quite a challenge for me, but I’m thrilled with how it turned out. 

Let me tell you the backstory of how this dress came to be. Back in February, a friend sent me a photo of a non-crocheted dress and expressed her desire for a crocheted version. Without hesitation, I accepted the challenge. I studied the photo carefully, figured out the motif placement and dress construction, and started working with the yarn I had on hand. 

After completing the waistline on my first sample, I felt confident to move forward and create the dress for my friend. She requested it in black, which I knew would be challenging to film in a tutorial. As I worked on the length of the dress, I encountered some difficulties and had to undo my work several times. Despite the challenges, I persevered and completed the dress. However, I still had a nagging feeling that something wasn’t quite right with it. 

I made another sample using leftover yarn to create a tutorial for this dress. As I joined the motifs and filmed the tutorial, I finally realized what was wrong with the previous dress construction. With this newfound knowledge, I started a final sample, which I’m excited to share today.

I know that you are so curious to see the pattern that I will jump in 🙂

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size 1, Super Fine (Fingering) weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 3.5 mm crochet hook
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Desire Dress design has a modular construction. Each circle motif is crocheted individually, and the final round serves as the joining element, seamlessly connecting them.

The beauty of this design lies in its versatility. You can customize the length by joining the motifs from top to bottom according to your preference. Whether you envision a stylish top, a trendy tunic, or an elegant maxi dress, this pattern accommodates all three versions flawlessly. Moreover, the dress’s sleeves can be tailored to your liking, allowing you to choose between short, 3/4, or long sleeves.

As you progress to the waist length, an additional round is introduced to the motifs, enhancing the dress’s width around the hips. This thoughtful detail adds a flattering silhouette and ensures a comfortable fit.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Desire Dress pattern is written in 4 sizes, sizes S, M, L, and XL, but you will find tips on adjusting the size.

Final Measurements of the Desire Dress
Neck width* a: 23 cm (26, 28, 30)
Bust width b: 43 cm (48.5, 53, 57)
Hips and bottom width c: 53 cm (60, 65, 70)
**Sleeve length d: 64cm (72, 78, 84)
Sleeve circ. e: 28 cm (32, 35, 38)
***Length f: 140 cm (157, 172, 185)
*The neck width is measured across the back panel; it can be adjusted if you work more rounds on the neckline and make a few decreases
**the sleeve length it’s measured from the shoulder and includes the same number of motifs as for size S; it can be adjusted and make it shorter by working less motifs
*** The length is measured from the back of the neck and includes same number of motifs for all sizes; it can be adjusted and make the dress shorter, by working less motifs rounds;

YARN
For the Desire Dress, I used: Catona by Scheepjes; Yarn composition: 100% mercerized cotton; Each ball has 50 grams and is approximately 125 meters
Color 105 – Bridal White
For each size, you will about need:
1650 (1840, 2270, 2450)
The amount of yarn is calculated for the maxi version, considering the same number of motifs for all sizes;

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
ss – slip stitch
tsc – twisted single crochet
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – round
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using a 3.5mm crochet hook working 1 motif for the corresponding size
Size S: 1 motif = 14.5 cm
Size M: 1 motif: 16 cm
Size L: 1 motif: 17.5 cm
Size XL: 1 Motif = 19 cm

The motifs are measured in diameter

For a comprehensive guide to constructing the dress, refer to the PDF version of this pattern, which includes a detailed stitch chart for every step. The PDF is available for purchase at the provided links below:

For a comprehensive guide to constructing the dress, refer to the PDF version of this pattern, which includes a detailed stitch chart for every step. The PDF is available for purchase at the provided links below:

 

 

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The Desire Dress showcases a combination of stitch patterns. The motifs are created using a simple stitch pattern, incorporating double crochet stitches for the initial rounds, followed by a mesh stitch pattern for the final three or four rounds, depending on the size.

The mesh stitch pattern is created using single crochet and chain stitches.
When working on the dress, you have the flexibility to choose between two approaches. You can either complete multiple motifs individually and join them at the end, or opt for joining them as you progress.

Each size has a unique motif design while maintaining the same stitches. The larger sizes incorporate additional double crochet or mesh stitch rounds to accommodate the sizing requirements.

To customize the length of the dress, the motifs are joined from top to bottom, allowing for adjustments based on your preferences and the size of each motif. Additionally, if further length is desired, the mesh stitch pattern can be utilized to extend it. The pattern provides comprehensive details on this process.

For a more comprehensive understanding, please refer to the pattern below, which includes further instructions and guidelines.

HOW TO ADJUST THE DESIRE DRESS PATTERN SO IT CAN FIT YOUR BODY

The Desire Dress design takes into account your bust measurements as a reference for creating the perfect fit. To ensure you achieve the desired result, please follow the steps below:

Step 1: Using a measuring tape, accurately measure your bust.
Step 2: Divide the measurement by 2 to obtain the bust width, which will serve as the reference for starting your dress.
Step 3: Select the yarn and hook size that you prefer for the dress.
Step 4: The bust width should be covered by three motifs joined together. Within this pattern, you will find different motif patterns to choose from. If you opt for a thinner yarn and a smaller hook size, you may need a larger motif to cover the same size effectively.
Step 5: Once you have decided on the pattern for your motif, you are ready to proceed by following the sketches and instructions provided below.

One crucial consideration, especially if you wish to incorporate a different stitch pattern for the motifs, is that the last round of each motif should consist of a multiple of 6 chain spaces. Each circle within the motif will have 6 equal segments around it, enabling seamless joining with other motifs.

Upon reaching the waist length, the motifs are expanded by adding an extra round, serving as a joining round. If you require additional width, you can add another round while maintaining the 6 equal segments. If you have already joined the motifs up to the waistline with 4 chain spaces on each join, continue using the same number of spaces for joining.

PATTERN NOTES

– Each motif is worked in the round exclusively on the right side.
– The 2 chain stitches at the beginning of a double crochet round do not count as the first double crochet.
– The 1 chain stitch at the beginning of a round starting with single crochet does not count as the first double crochet.
– The last round of a motif serves as the joining round, which you will work on while joining the motifs together.

For a comprehensive guide to constructing the dress, refer to the PDF version of this pattern, which includes a detailed stitch chart for every step. The PDF is available for purchase at the provided links below:

– To increase the width around the hips, add an extra round. In this particular pattern, the last round for all motifs of all sizes is 1 single crochet, 5 chain stitches*. This round will be used for joining (more details in the pattern). When you want to increase the width, work the joining round as the last round of the motif and add an extra round for joining, which will be 1 single crochet, 7 chain stitches.

INSTRUCTIONS

MOTIF PATTERN SIZE S

Start: make a magic ring
R1: 2ch, 12dc inside the ring; ss into the first dc;
R2: 2ch, 2dc in each st around; ss into the first dc (24 dc)
R3: 2ch, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc. (36 dc);
R4: 2ch, *1dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc. (48 dc)
R5: 1ch, *1sc, 4ch, skip 1 st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc (24 4ch-sps)
R6: 2ss to start the round from the first 4ch-sp; 1ch, *1sc into the next 4ch-sp, 4ch; rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc (24 4ch-sps).

MOTIF PATTERN SIZE L

Start: make a magic ring
R1: 2ch, 12dc inside the ring; ss into the first dc;
R2: 2ch, 2dc in each st around; ss into the first dc (24 dc)
R3: 2ch, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc. (36 dc);
R4: 2ch, *1dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc. (48 dc)
R5: 1ch, *1sc, 4ch, skip 1 st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc (24 4ch-sps)
R6: 2ss to start the round from the first 4ch-sp; 1ch, *1sc into the next 4ch-sp, 4ch; rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc (24 4ch-sps).
R7: rep. R6

MOTIF PATTERN SIZE L

Start: make a magic ring
R1: 2ch, 12dc inside the ring; ss into the first dc;
R2: 2ch, 2dc in each st around; ss into the first dc (24 dc)
R3: 2ch, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc. (36 dc);
R4: 2ch, *1dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc. (48 dc)
R5: 2ch, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next 3sts; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc; (60 sts)
R6: 1ch, *1sc, 4ch, skip 1 st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc (30 4ch-sps)
R7: 2ss to start the round from the first 4ch-sp; 1ch, *1sc into the next 4ch-sp, 4ch; rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc (30 4ch-sps).

MOTIF PATTERN SIZE XL

Start: make a magic ring
R1: 2ch, 12dc inside the ring; ss into the first dc;
R2: 2ch, 2dc in each st around; ss into the first dc (24 dc)
R3: 2ch, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc. (36 dc);
R4: 2ch, *1dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc. (48 dc)
R5: 2ch, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next 3sts; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first dc; (60 sts)
R6: 1ch, *1sc, 4ch, skip 1 st; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc (30 4ch-sps)
R7: 2ss to start the round from the first 4ch-sp; 1ch, *1sc into the next 4ch-sp, 4ch; rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc (30 4ch-sps).
R8: Rep. R7

For a comprehensive guide to constructing the dress, refer to the PDF version of this pattern, which includes a detailed stitch chart for every step. The PDF is available for purchase at the provided links below:

HOW TO JOIN THE MOTIFS

We will utilize the last round for joining the motifs together. The joining segments will consist of 4 spaces for sizes S and M, and 5 spaces for sizes L and XL.

In the last round, the pattern is 1 single crochet, 5 chain stitches (1sc, 5ch). We will use these 5 chain stitches to join the current motif with one or more motifs.

Always ensure that the motif you are currently working on is facing the right side, while the motif you are joining is facing the wrong side.

To initiate a joining round, follow these steps:

Step 1: After making the first single crochet in the round, ch2.
Step 2: Insert your hook into the 4-ch-sp of motif B and work a sc.
Step 3: Ch2 and proceed to the next 4-chsp of motif A, making a single crochet.

Repeat this process until you have joined 4 4-ch-sps (for sizes S and M) or 5 4-ch-sp (for sizes L and XL).

If you need to join with another motif, simply repeat the process for an additional 4 (or 5) 4-chain spaces.

Once you have completed the joining, continue working the round as follows: Chain 5, *1 sc into the next 4-ch-sp, ch5; repeat from * until you finish the round.

If you require additional width, such as for the length after the waistline, you will work the motifs with the joining round as the last round. This means that you will need to work one more round, repeating the pattern: 1 single crochet in the next 4-chain space, followed by 5 chain stitches.

For the joining round, you will use 7 chain stitches. The steps for joining will remain the same, with the only difference being that you will chain 3 instead of 2.

After familiarizing yourself with the process of creating and joining the motifs, you are now ready to construct the dress.

Below, you will find a sketch illustrating the joining pattern for the front and back panels, as well as the sleeves. Please note that the sketch depicts the motifs in a flat layout, but they will be joined in the round (with a single round for both the back and front panels).

This visual reference will provide you with a clear understanding of how the motifs come together to form the different sections of the dress.

By following the sketch and utilizing the knowledge you have gained, you can confidently proceed with building the dress, ensuring a beautiful and well-fitted final result.

The top part of the dress holds significant importance in its construction. Once you have successfully completed this section, working on the length and sleeves will become relatively easier.

Once you have successfully completed the top part, proceed to work on the desired length of the dress. You can follow the instructions provided earlier in the pattern for adjusting the length according to your preference.

Similarly, when you are ready to tackle the sleeves, utilize the knowledge and techniques you have gained thus far to determine the desired length and style. You can refer to the instructions for customizable sleeve lengths and follow them accordingly.

SLEEVES

The sleeves of the dress consist of two motifs in circumference.

To begin the sleeves, the first two motifs will be joined with the shoulder and the front and back panels, seamlessly integrating them into the overall design.

In the sample I worked on, I completed a total of three rounds for each sleeve, with two motifs in each round. For the final round, I increased the width of the motifs to create a flared appearance, adding a touch of elegance to the sleeves.

Note: at the armpit, after joining the sleeves, a whole will remain. Please refer to the video tutorial to see how to fill those holes

FINISHING THE EDGES

The dress will end up with wavy edges because of the circles. But we will make them straight.
This is an important step, especially for the neckline. Working this border will allow us to make some decreases as well if we want a narrower neckline

To ensure a polished finish, we need to fill the gaps between the motifs for all the edges, including the neckline, sleeves, and bottom hem. Follow these steps to achieve a seamless result:

For the following instructions, let’s consider Motif A as the motif on the right and Motif B as the motif on the left.

Row 1: Begin by rejoining the yarn into the second 4-chain space of Motif A, counting from the join to the right. Make 1 chain stitch (1ch), then work 1 single crochet (1sc) into the 5-chain space. Chain 2 (ch2) and make 1sc into the next 5-chain space of Motif A. Next, work 5 chain stitches (5ch) and make 1sc into the first 5-chain space after the joining of Motif B. Chain 2 (2ch) and make 1sc into the next 5-chain space of Motif B. Turn.

Row 2: Chain 5 (5ch), make 1sc into the next 5-chain space, chain 5 (5ch), and slip stitch (ss) into the next single crochet (sc) (the first one you made after joining the yarn). Chain 2 (2ch) and make 1sc into the next 5-chain space of Motif A. Turn.

Row 3: Repeat the sequence (5ch, 1sc into the next 5-chain space) two times, then work 5 chain stitches (5ch) and make 1sc into the next 5-chain space of Motif B.

Fasten off and cut the yarn.

Repeat these steps to fill all the gaps between the two motifs. Please note that when working on the sleeves and bottom, where the last round motifs have 7 chain stitches, you will need to chain 7 instead of 5.

NECKLINE EDGE

Rejoin yarn in one of the 5ch-sps.
Round 1: 1ch, 1sc, 3ch, *1sc into the next 5ch-sp, 3ch; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc.

Note: if you want to decrease even more, and make the neckline smaller, you can add one more round following the pattern 1sc into the next *3ch-sp, 2ch.

Round 2: 1ch, 3sc in each 3ch-sp.
Round 3: 1ch, 1sc in each st
Round 4: rep. Round 3
Round 4: 1tsc (twisted single crochet) in each st around.

SLEEVES AND BOTTOM EDGES

If you need to add more length to these parts of the dress:

Rejoin yarn in one of the 5ch-sps.
Round 1: 1ch, 1sc, 7ch, *1sc into the next 5ch-sp, 3ch; *rep. until the end of the round; ss into the first sc.
Round 2: ss into the next 7ch-sp, 1ch, 1sc, 7ch, *1sc in next 7ch-sp, 7ch. *rep until the end of the round
Rep. Round 2 to the desired length

Finishing the edge

Round 1: ss into the next 7ch-sp, 1ch, 1sc, 4ch, *1sc in next 7ch-sp, 4ch. *rep until the end of the round
Round 2: 1ch, 1sc in each st around (1sc into the sc sts, 4sc into the 4ch-sp.)
Round 3: 1ch, 1sc in each st
Round 4: rep. Round 3
Round 4: 1tsc (twisted single crochet) in each st around.

TO FINISH

Weave in all the ends and block to measurements.

You can also find a video tutorial to guide you through the process of making the Desire Dress here

For a comprehensive guide to constructing the dress, refer to the PDF version of this pattern, which includes a detailed stitch chart for every step. The PDF is available for purchase at the provided links below:

 

I was super excited when I began working on the Sensu Skirt back in December! The idea for this design popped into my head after stumbling upon a similar skirt online. The one I saw wasn’t crocheted or knitted; it was actually made out of fabric. However, I was determined to put my crochet skills to the test and recreate that pattern using yarn. I couldn’t wait to see if I could bring my vision to life!

Everything was going great until I faced the challenge of choosing a name for this design. The only thing that popped into my mind was “zebra,” but I envisioned this skirt in a variety of color combinations and didn’t want to name it solely based on the colors of this sample. Fortunately, this community has been incredibly supportive, and when I reached out for name suggestions, I was overwhelmed with hundreds of gorgeous ideas.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts, also.

 

“Sensu Skirt” was the name suggested by storpuman_smyckar, meaning “folded fan” in Japanese. I loved it from the first time I saw it. 

Ok! I am done with the back story and ready to share how you can make the Sensu Skirt.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size 2, Fine (Sport) weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 4 mm crochet hook
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors
• 2cm wide elastic band (it should be around 5-7cm shorter than the waist circ)

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Sensu Skirt has a top-down construction.
Start with the waist ribbing and then work in the round using the mosaic crochet technique and an increased pattern to make it flared.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Sensu Skirt Pattern is available in 8 sizes, from S up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with a 90 cm hip circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: S (M, L, XL) ( 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL);
All the measurements use as reference Standard Body Measurements by ASTM International.

The Sensu Skirt Pattern is easily adjustable, and you will find indications on how to customize the pattern so that the skirt fits your Body.

Final Measurements of the Sensi Skirt
Waist circ a: 63 cm (71, 78, 86) (94, 102, 109, 117)
Hips circ. b: 103 cm (115, 128, 140) (153, 165, 178, 190)
Bottom Circ. c: 144 cm (161, 179, 196), (214, 231, 249, 266)
Length d: 44 cm (44, 44, 44) (44, 44, 44, 44)
*The measurements for the waist are taken without stretching; as a reference, the model’s actual waist circ. is 73 cm, and the skirt ribbing is smaller by about 10 cm;

How much Yarn you will need

For the Sensu Skirt, I used: Rainbow Bamboo by Hobbii Yarn; Yarn composition: 60% bamboo viscose, 40% cotton; Each ball has 100 grams and are approximately 250 meters (246 yards)
Colors 02 – Natural White and 06 – Steel Grey
For each size, you will approximately need:
Color A (Natural White): 695 (773, 856, 935) (1019, 1098, 1182, 1261) meters
Color B (Steel Grey): 585 (655, 730, 801) (877,948, 1024, 1095) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Sssblo – slip stitch back loop
dc – double crochet
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – round
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 4mm crochet hook in the Ribbing Stitch Pattern (ssblo)

10sts = 4cm
26 rows = 10cm

Using a 4 mm crochet hook in mosaic st pattern (counting only the surface sts)
20sts = 10cm
10 rounds = 10cm

Using a 4mm crochet hook in dc, worked flat:
16sts = 10 cm
8.5 rows = 10cm

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts, also.

 

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

OVERLAY MOSAIC CROCHET

The Sensu Skirt pattern employs the innovative overlay mosaic crochet technique, where the design is exclusively worked from the front side, using two contrasting colors, A and B, and each row alternates between the two. This method is ideal for round designs as it obviates the need for yarn breaks. Switching between colors is accomplished simply by dropping the current color and picking the other one.

The color pattern of the Sensu Skirt is uncomplicated, made even easier with the mosaic crochet technique, which eliminates the need for color changes within the same round.

The mosaic pattern is created by working all single crochet (SC) stitches into the top-back loops of the same row and dropping down all double crochet (DC) stitches into the front loops of the row below of the same color. This is where the term “overlay” comes from. The DC stitches cover up the SC stitches from the previous row, allowing you to overlay different colors.

When working on a mosaic crochet pattern, it is important to understand and know how to read a mosaic crochet chart. Within the PDF version of this pattern, you will find small mosaic crochet charts representing the section repeated in one round and the rounds repeated until the next increase.

You can see above how the stitch chart looks like
Here are a few things that you will need to know:

1. The numbered columns on the right sides of the chart are color-coded with the color you will be using for the entire row, either A or B.

2. The color boxes in the chart only show you where the dc stitches will drop and give you an idea of how the rows will look like, but remember you don’t have to change the colors within the same round;

INVISIBLE SLIP STITCH

To close each round, use an invisible slip stitch.
Step 1: remove the crochet hook from the working loop;
Step 2: Insert the hook through the back loop of the first st, from back to front;
Step 3: Insert the hook through the working loop and pass the loop through the back loop of the first st;

CHANGING COLORS

After closing the round, with the invisible slip stitch explained above, take the following color to be used and pass it through the working loop; you now have the new working color yarn on the hook; pull the previous color strand and drop it until the next round;

STARTING THE ROUND

After changing the colors, start the next round by working the first st as the pattern requires (either a back loop sc or a front loop dc), without any additional chain.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts, also.

 

HOW TO ADJUST THE SENSU SKIRT PATTERN SO IT CAN FIT YOUR BODY

Step 1: measure the most prominent part of your body; it doesn’t matter if it is the waist or hips;
Use these measurements as a reference for the starting chain;
Step 2: Make a gauge swatch, but using the mosaic crochet stitch so that you will have a better view of the final fabric; you can make this swatch flat and without cutting the yarn after each row; You can see in the video tutorial here, how you can do it.
Step3: the starting chain should be between 5 – 10 cm smaller than the circumference of the most prominent part if this is the hips area and 5 -10 cm bigger if it is the waist area; for example, the model hips circumference is 90 cm, and the starting chain of the sample is 82 cm.
Step 4: having the starting chain required length, transform it into sts according to your gauge;
Step 5: approximate the number of sts to have a multiple of 4.

If the starting chain is bigger than your waist circumference, this will be adjusted with the elastic band.

HOW TO ADJUST THE SENSU SKIRT LENGTH

I divided the length of the skirt into 4 sections. At the end of each section, I did the increases. Each section has 40 rounds or 20 surface rounds.

The most critical section is the one between the waist and hips (mostly if the hips circ. is the most prominent part). If your body shape requires this first section to be smaller, meaning you need fewer rounds before the first increase, you can make the first round of increases sooner.

If you want the skirt to be more flared, you can divide the length into more sections and keep increasing on the last round of each section.

The idea is to divide the skirt’s length into sections of rounds so the stripes have a nice pattern; the exception is when you only want to adjust the section between the waist and hips.

PATTERN NOTES

– read carefully the STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES section, where you will find the information about mosaic crochet, how to close and start the rounds, and how to change colors;
– in the instructions below, color A represents the Natural White color on the sample, and color B is the Steel Grey Color.
– the increases are always made on a color B round.
– always work the increases into the last st of a section repeat;
– for the sample, the waistband is worked in a slip stitch in the back loop only pattern; you can change it to a different pattern even if the gauge is different; the waist will be adjusted with the elastic band;
-change the color at every round;

INSTRUCTIONS

The numbers are written in the pattern below, S (M, L, XL) ( 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) unless the numbers apply for all the sizes.

WAISTBAND RIBBING

Using color A
Start: ch21
R1: start into the second st, 1ss in each st until the end of the row; 1ch and turn;

*tip: place an st marker into the first and last st of this row; it will be helpful when folding and starting joining the folded waistband

R2: 1ssblo in each st to the end of the row, 1ch, and turn
Rep. R2 until you have 164 (184, 204, 224) ( 244, 264, 284, 304) rows
join the ends using slip stitches to make a circle.

Prepare the elastic band;
– I recommend using a wide elastic band because it will hold better the weight of the skirt;
– The elastic band length has to be shorter than your waist, and it depends on how stretchy the elastic is;
– For reference, the model’s actual waist measurement is 73cm, and the elastic band length is 54 cm. It is important to feel comfortable around your waist.
– Sew the ends of the elastic band

Fold the ribbing in half and insert the elastic band inside the fold;

Use a single crochet stitch to join the edges; insert the hook into the corresponding row through both sides.

At the end of the joining round, you should have the same number of sc as the number of rows you worked for the waistband ribbing: 164 (184, 204, 224) ( 244, 264, 284, 304) sc.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts, also.

 

SKIRT

Change to color B

– When the written pattern says to work 1dc, work the dc into the front loops of the row below of the same color;

Change to color B
R2: Set up round: 1scblo in each st around;
Change to color A
R3: *1dc in next 3sts, 1scblo in next st; *rep. to the end of the round;
Change to color B
R4: *1scblo in next 3sts, 1dc; *rep. to the end of the round;
Change to color A
R5: rep. R3
Rep. R4 and R5 until you have 21 or 10 rounds if counting only the surface rounds.

Change to color B
R22 (inc, round): *1scblo in next 3sts, 2dc in the next st; *rep. until the end of the round;
R23: *1dc in next 3sts, 1scblo in next 2sts; *rep until the end of the round

Rep. R22 and R23 until R41

Change to color B
R42 (inc, round): *1scblo in next 3sts, 1dc in next st, 2dc in the next st; *rep. until the end of the round;
R43: *1dc in next 3sts, 1scblo in next 3sts; *rep until the end of the round

Rep. R42 and R43 until R61

Change to color B
R62 (inc, round): *1scblo in next 3sts, 1dc in next 2sts, 2dc in the next st; *rep. until the end of the round;
R63: *1dc in next 3sts, 1scblo in next 4sts; *rep until the end of the round

Rep. R62 and R63 until R81

R82: using color A, 1sc in each st around.

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

And done! You did an amazing job, and now you have a beautiful skirt!

You can find a helpful video tutorial here.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts, also.

 

I was lucky back in October to work with the amazing Adiahna by Ancestral Fiber and Co, and make the Demerzael Sweater. She invited me to design something for her collection of yarn inspired by a Movie Series.

Now, I will share how you can make this amazing sweater. After Sella Jumper, this is my second design using saddle sleeves, and it won’t be the last. I love this construction and how the sweater fits. I know you are excited to see and make this Demerzael Sweater because all the positive feedback blew me away. I am so grateful to be part of this amazing community.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

And because I have nothing else to say, I will jump into the pattern.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size 3, DK weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 4.5 mm crochet hook for the Ribbing
o 5.5 mm crochet hook for the rest of the sweater
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• at least 4 stitch markers 
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Demerzael Sweater is a top-down sweater with a unique yoke construction.

The yoke is worked in 2 sections: the first one, increasing only the front and back panel, and the second one, increasing the sleeves. For bigger sizes, Section 2 has 2 Parts: one, increasing only the sleeves, and second, increasing the sleeves and the front and back panels.

After finishing the yoke, the piece is split into sleeves and body. The three parts are worked individually until the desired length.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Demerzael Sweater Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with an 86 cm Bust circumference, and wears a size Extra Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL); US sizes 0/2 (4/6, 8/10, 12/14) (14/16W, 18/20W, 22/24W, 26/28W, 30/32W)
All the measurements use as reference Standard Body Measurements by ASTM International.

 

Final Measurements of the Demerzael Sweater
Neckline circ a: 43 cm (46, 49, 49) (49, 51, 54, 54, 54)
Cross Back b: 38cm (39, 40, 41), (41, 41, 43, 44, 46)
Bust Circ. c: 92 cm (95, 102, 108), (118, 128, 138, 148, 155)
Sleeve length d: 59 cm (61, 63, 65), (68, 68, 69, 75, 79)
Sleeve Circ. e: 33cm (34, 38, 39), (43, 44, 49, 53, 56)
Length f:53cm (55, 56, 59) (60, 60, 61, 65, 68)

How much yarn do you need?

For the Demerzael Sweater, I used the following:
Sample 1 (Blue): Ancestral Silk DK in color Demerzael; Yarn composition: 75% Super Washed Merino & 25% Silk; Each Hank has 100 grams and is approximately 225 meters (246 yards)
Sample 2 (green): DK 100% recycled cotton yarn

For each size, you will approximately need:
780 (840, 920, 1020) (1140, 1220, 1350, 1550, 1710) meters

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Scblo – single crochet back loop
dc – double crochet
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
R – round
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using a 4.5.mm crochet hook in the Ribbing Stitch Pattern

14sts (scblo) = 10cm
14 rows = 10cm

Using a 5.5 mm crochet hook in double crochet

12sts = 10cm
7.5 rounds = 10cm

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

STITCH PATTERNS AND TECHNIQUES

The Demerzael Sweater stitch patterns are double crochet, double crochet mesh stitch, and single crochet in the back loop only for Ribbing.

Single crochet in the back loop
Insert the hook into the back loop of the next st, yarn over, pull out a loop, yarn over, and pass through both loops on your hook.

Double Crochet
Yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull out a loop, yarn over, pull it through the first 2 loops on your hook, yarn over, and pass it through both loops on your hook.

Double Crochet Mesh Stitch

R1:*1dc, 1ch, skip 1st. *rep. until the end of the round.

PATTERN NOTES

  • Work the neckline ribbing falt; turn after each row
  • When working across the ribbing’s side rows, each side row represents 1st
  • Work the rest of the sweater in the round; close each round with an sl st into the first dc; to avoid your work twisting, turn after each round;
  • Begin each round with 2ch; 2ch does not count as the first dc; optional, you can start each round with 1sc on top of other sc; (see how to make this starting stitch in the video tutorial here)
  • use stitch markers to mark the front and back panels’ sts and the sleeves’ sts; you can use different color stitch markers to know which one belongs to which section

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

INSTRUCTIONS

NECKLINE RIBBING

Using the 4.5mm crochet hook ch15
R1: start in the second st from the hook
1sc in each st until the end of the row. 1ch and turn.
R2: 1sc, 1scblo in next 13 sts, 1sc in last st, 1ch and turn
Rep. R2 until you will have in total: 60 (64, 68, 68) (68, 72, 76, 76, 76)

Join the ends of the ribbing using slip stitches.

Fold the ribbing and ensure the edges of the rows are perfectly aligned.

From where your yarn is, work 1ch and then 1sc into each side row, through both side edges, until you complete the round,

At the end of this round, you should have 60 (64, 68, 68) (68, 72, 76, 76, 76) sc.

YOKE SECTION 1 – INCREASING FRONT AND BACK PANELS

Use a 5.5 mm crochet hook.
At the end of the document, you will find stitch charts with the YOKE Sections.

Before starting this section, use at least 4 stitch markers to mark the front and back panels. You can also use another 4 to mark the sleeves’ sts, but we will increase only the front and back panels in this section.

With each round, move the sts marker into the first and last st of the section (front and back panel); these sts will always be next to the sleeve sts.

Place 1 st marker into the first st, the second st marker into st number 25 (27, 29, 29) (29, 29, 31, 31, 31), and the third st. marker into st number 31 (33, 35, 35) (35, 37, 39, 39, 39), and the fourth st marker into stitch number 55 (59, 63, 63) (63, 65, 69, 69, 69).

You will have 25 (27, 29, 29) (29, 29, 31, 31, 31) sts for back and front panels and 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts for the sleeves.

In all following instructions, the first st in a round will be written as dc; you will work the starting st as you find it easier (3ch, 2ch, and 1dc, or 1sc and another sc on top of it); all the RS rounds will start with an increase (3dc in the same st), which at the beginning of the round will be your first starting st plus another 2dc.

R1 (RS) : *3dc, 1dc in next 23 (25, 27, 27) (27, 27, 29, 29, 29) sts, 3dc in next st, 1ch skip 1st, (1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 2 (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times*; Rep. from * to * one more time; slst into the first st, turn;
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 29 (31, 33, 33) (33, 33, 35, 35, 35)
Sleeves: 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts

R2 (WS): 1dc, 1ch skip 1st, (1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x2 (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next 27 (29, 31, 31) (31, 31, 33, 33, 33)sts, 3dc in next, 1ch skip 1st, (1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x2 (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next 27 (29, 31, 31) (31, 31, 33, 33, 33)sts, 2dc into the last st (same st as first dc), slst, turn
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 33 (35, 37, 37) (37, 37, 39, 39, 39)
Sleeves: 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts

R3 (RS): *3dc, 1dc in next 31 (33, 35, 35) (35, 35, 37, 37, 37) sts, 3dc in next, 1ch skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x2 (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times*; Rep. from * to * one more time; slst into the first st, turn;
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 37 (39, 41, 41) (41, 41, 43, 43, 43)
Sleeves: 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts

R4 (WS): 1dc, 1ch skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x2 (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next 35 (37, 39, 39) (39, 39, 41, 41, 41)sts, 3dc in next, 1ch skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x2 (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next 35 (37, 39, 39) (39, 39, 41, 41, 41)sts, 2dc into the last st (same st as first dc), slst, turn
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 41 (43, 45, 45) (45, 45, 47, 47, 47)
Sleeves: 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts

R5 (RS): *3dc, 1dc in next 39 (41, 43, 43) (43, 43, 45, 45, 45) sts, 3dc in next, 1ch skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x2 (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times*; Rep. from * to * one more time; slst into the first st, turn;
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 45 (47, 49, 49) (49, 49, 51, 51, 51)
Sleeves: 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts

For sizes XS, S, and M, YOKE SECTION 1 is done; move to YOKE SECTION 2

Sizes L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL only

R6 (WS): 1dc, 1ch skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, -, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, -, 47) (47, 47, 49, 49, 49) sts, 3dc in next, 1ch skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, -, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, 3dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, -, 47) (47, 47, 49, 49, 49) sts
2dc into the last st (same st as the first dc), slst, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: – (-, -, 53) (53, 53, 55, 55, 55)
Sleeves: – (-, -, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts

For sizes L, XL, 2XL, and 3XL, YOKE SECTION 1 is done; move to YOKE SECTION 2

Sizes 4XL and 5XL only

R7 (RS): *3dc, 1dc in next – (-, -, -) (-, -, -, 53, 53) sts, 3dc in next, 1ch skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, -, -) (-, -, -, 3, 3) times times*; Rep. from * to * one more time; slst into the first st, turn;

Total sts:
Front and back panels: – (-, -, -) (-, -, -, 59, 59)
Sleeves: – (-, -, -) (-, -, -, 7, 7) sts

For sizes 4XL, and 5XL, YOKE SECTION 1 is done; move to YOKE SECTION 2

After completing the YOKE SECTION 1, you should have:

Total sts:
Front and back panels: 45 (47, 49, 53, 53, 53, 55, 59, 59) sts
Sleeves: 5 (5, 5, 5) (5, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts

YOKE SECTION 2 – INCREASING SLEEVES

If you didn’t use stitch markers for the sleeves’ sts until now, you should place them before starting YOKE SECTION 2. The first and last st of the sleeve will be the 1ch-sp after and before the back and front panels.

With each round, you will increase into the sts next to the back and front panels. The number of sts for front and back panels remains the same.
You must keep the 5 or 7 sts in the middle of the sleeve into the mesh stitch pattern.

The YOKE SECTION 2 will have first rounds with a mesh stitch pattern on the front panel. You can work with dc stitches instead of a mesh stitch pattern to solidify this section.

In this section, the increase will be 2dc in the same st, instead of 3dc. You don’t have to increase the front and back panels, only the sleeves.

YOKE SECTION 2 – INCREASING SLEEVES

Size XS, S, and M
The numbers below are written as follows: XS (S, M)

R6 (WS): 1dc, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, 1ch, 1dc in next dc, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, 1ch, 1dc in next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st) for the next 44 (46, 48) sts – front panel’s sts, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, 1ch, 1dc in next dc, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc, 1ch, 1dc in next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next 44 (46, 48) sts, slst into the first dc, turn
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 45 (47, 49)
Sleeves: 7(7, 7) sts

R7 (RS): 1dc in next 45 (47, 49) sts, 2dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 44 (46, 48) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 2dc in next st, slst into first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 45 (47, 49)
Sleeves: 9(9, 9) sts

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

R8: (WS): 1dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, ((1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 44 (46, 48) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 44 (46, 48) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 45 (47, 49)
Sleeves: 11(11, 11) sts

R9 (RS): 1dc in next 45 (47, 49) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 2sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 44 (46, 48) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 2sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 45 (47, 49)
Sleeves: 13(13, 13) sts

R10 (WS): 1dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 3sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 44 (46, 48) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 3sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 44 (46,48) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 45 (47, 49)
Sleeves: 15(15, 15) sts

R11 (RS): 1dc in next 45 (47, 49) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 4sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 4sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 44 (46, 48) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 4sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 4sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 45 (47, 49)
Sleeves: 17(17, 17) sts

R12 (WS): 1dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 5sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 44 (46, 48) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 5sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 44 (46,48) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 45 (47, 49)
Sleeves: 19(19, 19) sts

Starting with R13, the pattern for the front panel will be in dc sts, the same as for the back panel.
We will continue to increase the sleeves.

R13 (RS): 1dc in next 45 (47, 49) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 6sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 6sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 45 (47, 49) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 6sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 6sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 45 (47, 49)
Sleeves: 21(21, 21) sts

R14 (WS): 1dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 7sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 45 (47, 49)sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 7sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 44 (46,48) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 45 (47, 49)
Sleeves: 23(23, 23) sts

R15 (RS): 1dc in next 45 (47, 49) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 8sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 8sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 45 (47, 49) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 8sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 8sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 45 (47, 49)
Sleeves: 25(25, 25) sts

R16 (WS): 1dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 9sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 45 (47, 49)sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 9sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 44 (46,48) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 45 (47, 49)
Sleeves: 27(27, 27) sts

For size XS the YOKE SECTION 2 is done; move to the BODY section

Sizes S and M only

R17 (RS): 1dc in next 45 (47, 49) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 10sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 10sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 45 (47, 49) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 10sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 10sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: – (47, 49)
Sleeves: – (29, 29) sts

For size S the YOKE SECTION 2 is done; move to the BODY section

Sizes M only

R18 (WS): 1dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 11sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 11sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 45 (47, 49)sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 11sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 2) times, 1dc in next 11sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 44 (46,48) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: – (-, 49)
Sleeves: – (-, 31) sts

For size M the YOKE SECTION 2 is done; move to the BODY section

YOKE SECTION 2 – INCREASING SLEEVES

Size L, XL, 2XL and 3XL
The numbers below are written as follows: L (XL, 2XL, 3XL)

R7 (RS): 1dc in next 53 (53, 53, 55) sts, 1dc in next ch-sp, 1ch, 1dc in next dc, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc) x 1( 1, 2, 2) times, 1ch, 1dc in next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st) for the next 52 (52, 52, 54) sts – front panel’s sts, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, 1ch, 1dc in next dc, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc) x 1( 1, 2, 2) times, 1ch, 1dc in next 1ch-sp, slst into first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 53 (53, 53, 55)
Sleeves: 7(7, 9, 9) sts

R8( WS): 1dc, 2dc in the next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 3, 3) times, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 52 (52, 52, 54) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 3, 3) times, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 52 (52, 52, 54) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 53 (53, 53, 55)
Sleeves: 9(9, 11, 11) sts

R9 (RS): 1dc in next 53 (53, 53, 55) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 52 (52, 52, 54) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next st, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 53 (53, 53, 55)
Sleeves: 11 (11, 13, 13) sts

R10( WS): 1dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 2sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 52 (52, 52, 54) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 2sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 52 (52, 52, 54) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 53 (53, 53, 55)
Sleeves: 13 (13, 15, 15) sts

R11 (RS): 1dc in next 53 (53, 53, 55) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 3sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 52 (52, 52, 54) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 3sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 53 (53, 53, 55)
Sleeves: 15 (15, 17, 17) sts

R12 ( WS): 1dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 4sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 4sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 52 (52, 52, 54) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 4sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 4sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 52 (52, 52, 54) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 53 (53, 53, 55)
Sleeves: 17 (17, 19, 19) sts

R13 (RS): 1dc in next 53 (53, 53, 55) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 5sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 52 (52, 52, 54) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 5sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 53 (53, 53, 55)
Sleeves: 19 (19, 21, 21) sts

R14 ( WS): 1dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 6sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 6sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 52 (52, 52, 54) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 6sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 6sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 52 (52, 52, 54) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 53 (53, 53, 55)
Sleeves: 21 (21, 23, 23) sts

For sizes L and XL, starting with R15, the pattern will change for the front panel into dc only, the same as for the back panel. For the sizes 2XL and 3XL, we will work 1 more row with a mesh st pattern.

Sizes L and XL only

R15 (RS): 1dc in next 53 (53, -, -) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, -, -) times, 1dc in next 7sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 53 (53, -, -) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, -, -) times, 1dc in next 7sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 53 (53, -, -)
Sleeves: 23 (23, -, -) sts

R16 ( WS): 1dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 8sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, -, -) times, 1dc in next 8sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next (53 (53, -, -) sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, -, -) times, 1dc in next 8sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 52 (52, -, -) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 53 (53, -, -)
Sleeves: 25 (25, -, -) sts

R17 (RS): 1dc in next 53 (53, -, -) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, -, -) times, 1dc in next 9sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 53 (53, -, -) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, -, -) times, 1dc in next 9sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 53 (53, -, -)
Sleeves: 27 (27, -, -) sts

R18 ( WS): 1dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 10sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, -, -) times, 1dc in next 10sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next (53 (53, -, -) sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 10sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, -, -) times, 1dc in next 10sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 52 (52, -, -) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 53 (53, -, -)
Sleeves: 29 (29, -, -) sts.

R19 (RS): 1dc in next 53 (53, -, -) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 11sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, -, -) times, 1dc in next 11sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 53 (53, -, -) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 11sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (2, -, -) times, 1dc in next 11sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 53 (53, -, -)
Sleeves: 31 (31, -, -) sts

Size L Only

R20 ( WS): 1dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 12sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (-, -, -) times, 1dc in next 12sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 53 (-, -, -) sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 12sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 2 (-, -, -) times, 1dc in next 12sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 52 (, -, -) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 53 (-, -, -)
Sleeves: 33 (-, -, -) sts.

For size L the YOKE SECTION 2 is done; move to the BODY section

Size XL only

For the last 2 rounds of the YOKE SECTION 2, on size XL, we will also increase the front and back panels;

R20 (WS): 2dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 12sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (2, -, -) times, 1dc in next 12sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next – (51, -, -) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 12sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (2, -, -) times, 1dc in next 12sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next – (51, -, -) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: – (55, -, -)
Sleeves: – (33, -, -) sts.

R21 (RS): 2dc, 1dc in next – (53, -, -) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 13sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (2, -, -) times, 1dc in next 13sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next – (53, -, -) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 13sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (2, -, -) times, 1dc in next 13sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: – (57, -, -)
Sleeves: – (35, -, -) sts

For size XL the YOKE SECTION 2 is done; move to the BODY section

Sizes 2XL and 3XL only

R15 (RS): 1dc in next – (-, 53, 55) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 7sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next – (-, 52, 54) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 7sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: – (-, 53, 55)
Sleeves: – (-, 25, 25) sts

R16 ( WS): 1dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 8sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 8sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, 53, 55) sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 8sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 8sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, 52, 54) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: – (-, 53, 55)
Sleeves: – (-, -27, 27) sts

For size 2XL, for the last 5 rounds, we will also increase the front and back panels. For size 3XL, we will work one more round without increasing the front and back panels.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.

Size 2XL only:

R17 (RS): 2dc, 1dc in next – (-, 51, -) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, 3, -) times, 1dc in next 9sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next – (51, -, -) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, 3, -) times, 1dc in next 9sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: – (-, 55, -)
Sleeves: – (-, 29, -) sts

Size 3XL only:

R17 (RS): 1dc in next – (-, -, 55) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, -, 3) times, 1dc in next 9sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, -, 55) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, -, 3) times, 1dc in next 9sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: – (-, -, 55)
Sleeves: – (- ,-, 29) sts

Sizes 2XL and 3XL

R18 (WS): 2dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 10sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 10sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, -53, 53) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 10sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 10sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, 53, 53) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: – (-, 57, 57)
Sleeves: – (-, 31, 31) sts.

R19 (RS): 2dc, 1dc in next – (-, 55, 55) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 11sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 11sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, 55, 55) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 11sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 11sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: – (-, 59, 59)
Sleeves: – (-, 33, 33) sts

R20 (WS): 2dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 12sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 12sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, -57, 57) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 12sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 12sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, 57, 57) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: – (-, 61, 61)
Sleeves: – (-, 35, 35) sts.

R21 (RS): 2dc, 1dc in next – (-, 59, 59) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 13sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 13sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, 59, 59) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 13sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, 3, 3) times, 1dc in next 13sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: – (-, 63, 63)
Sleeves: – (-, 37, 37) sts

For size 2XL the YOKE SECTION 2 is done; move to the BODY section

Size 3XL only:

R22 (WS): 2dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 12sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, -, 3) times, 1dc in next 14sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, -, 61) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 14sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (-, -, 3) times, 1dc in next 14sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next – (-, -, 61) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: – (-, -, 65)
Sleeves: – (-, -, 39) sts.

For size 3XL the YOKE SECTION 2 is done; move to the BODY section.

YOKE SECTION 2 – INCREASING SLEEVES

Sizes 4XL and 5XL

R8 (WS): 1dc, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, 1ch, 1dc in next dc, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc) x 2(2) times, 1ch, 1dc in next 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st) for the next 58 (58) sts – front panel’s sts, 1dc into the next 1ch-sp, 1ch, 1dc in next dc, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next dc) x 2(2) times, 1ch, 1dc in next 1ch-sp, slst into first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 59 (59)
Sleeves: 9(9) sts

R9 (RS): 1dc in next 59 (59) sts, 2dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 58 (58) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 2dc in next st, slst into first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 59 (59)
Sleeves: 11 (11) sts

R10: (WS): 1dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, ((1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 58 (58) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3)times, 1dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 58 (58) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 59 (59)
Sleeves: 13(13) sts

R11 (RS): 1dc in next 59 (59) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 2sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 58 (58) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 2sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 59 (59)
Sleeves: 15 (15) sts

R12 (WS): 1dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 3sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 58 (58) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 3sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 58 (58) sts, slst into the first dc,
turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 59 (59)
Sleeves: 17(17) sts

R13 (RS): 1dc in next 59 (59) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 4sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 4sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 58 (58) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 4sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 4sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 59 (59)
Sleeves: 19 (19) sts

R14 (WS): 1dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 5sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 58 (58) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 5sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 58 (58) sts, slst into the first dc,
turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 59 (59)
Sleeves: 21(21) sts

R15 (RS): 1dc in next 59 (59) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 6sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 6sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 58 (58) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 6sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 6sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 59 (59)
Sleeves: 23 (23) sts

R16 (WS): 1dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 7sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 58 (58) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 7sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 58 (58) sts, slst into the first dc,
turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 59 (59)
Sleeves: 25(25) sts

For Size 4XL at R17, the pattern for the front panel will be only dc, the same as the back panel. For 5XL, we will work one more round with a mesh stitch pattern on the front panel.

Size 4XL only: R17 (RS): 1dc in next 59 (-) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 8sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (-) times, 1dc in next 8sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 59 (-) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 8sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (-) times, 1dc in next 8sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 59 (59)
Sleeves: 27 (27) sts

Size 5XL only: R17 (RS): 1dc in next – (59) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 8sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (3) times, 1dc in next 8sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next – (58) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 8sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x – (3) times, 1dc in next 8sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 59 (59)
Sleeves: 27 (27) sts

Sizes 4XL and 5XL
R18 (WS): 1dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 9sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 59 (59) sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 7sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 58 (58) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 59 (59)
Sleeves: 29 (29) sts

R19 (RS): 1dc in next 59 (59) sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 10sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 10sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next st) for the next 58 (58) sts – front panel’s sts, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 10sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 10sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 59 (59)
Sleeves: 31 (31) sts

Starting with R20, we will also increase the front and back panels.

R20 (WS): 2dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 11sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x3 (3) times, 1dc in next 11sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 57 (57) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 11sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 11sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 57 (57) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 61 (61)
Sleeves: 33 (33) sts

R21 (RS): 2dc, 1dc in next 59 (59) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 12sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 12sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 59 (59) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 12sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 12sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 63 (63)
Sleeves: 35 (35) sts

R22 (WS): 2dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 13sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x3 (3) times, 1dc in next 13sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 61 (61) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 13sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 13sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 61 (61) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 65 (65)
Sleeves: 37 (37) sts

R23 (RS): 2dc, 1dc in next 63 (63) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 14sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 14sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 63 (63) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 14sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 14sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 67 (67)
Sleeves: 39 (39) sts

R24 (WS): 2dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 15sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x3 (3) times, 1dc in next 15sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 65 (65) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 15sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 15sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 65 (65) sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 69 (69)
Sleeves: 41 (41) sts

R25 (RS): 2dc, 1dc in next 67 (67) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 16sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 16sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 67 (67) sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 16sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 (3) times, 1dc in next 16sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 71 (71)
Sleeves: 43 (43) sts

For size 4XL the YOKE SECTION 2 is done; move to the BODY section

Size 5XL only

R26 (WS): 2dc, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 17sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x3 times, 1dc in next 17sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 69 sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 17sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 times, 1dc in next 17sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 69 sts, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 73
Sleeves: 45 sts

R27 (RS): 2dc, 1dc in next 71sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 18sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 times, 1dc in next 18sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 71 sts, 2dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in next 18sts, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp, (1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1ch-sp) x 3 times, 1dc in next 16sts, 2dc in next st, slst into the first dc, turn.
Total sts:
Front and back panels: 75
Sleeves: 47sts

For size 5XL, the YOKE SECTION 2 is done; move to the BODY section

After finishing YOKE SECTION 2, you should have for all the sizes XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL):
Front and back panels: 45 (47, 49, 53) (57, 63, 65, 71, 75)
Sleeves sts: 27 (29, 31, 33) (35, 37, 39, 43, 47)

BODY

Before splitting into sleeves and body, you can add a few short rows to the back panel to raise it and lower the neckline on the front panel.

You will have to work an even number of short rows so that the separating round is on the same side as the front panel.

Because the double crochet sts are taller stitches, you will cut the yarn after each short row. Work the short rows on the wrong and right sides.
For this particular sample and design, I worked 4 short rows and increased the number of sts of each row with 2 on each side.

To start the short rows, first cut the yarn. Then turn your work as you want to start another round, Then divide the back panel sts into 3 sections:

Section 1: 8 sts
Section 2: 29 (31, 33,37) (41, 47, 49, 55, 59)dc
Section 3:8sts

Rejoin yarn into the first st of section 2

Short row 1: ch2, 29 (31, 33,37) (41, 47, 49, 55, 59)dc, cut the yarn; turn

Short Row 2: Rejoin yarn 2sts before the first st of the last short row
ch2, 1dc, dc3tog (first leg into the next dc and the other 2 legs into the side of the last dc at of previous row), 1dc in next 9 (31, 33,37) (41, 47, 49, 55, 59)dc, dc3tog, (first 2legs into the side of first dc of the previous short row, third leg into the next dc), 1dc in next; cut the yarn; turn

Short Row 3: Rejoin yarn 2sts before the first st of the last short row ch2, 1dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next 33 (35, 37,41) (45, 51, 53, 59, 63)dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next; cut the yarn; turn

Short Row 4: Rejoin yarn 2sts before the first st of the last short row ch2, 1dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next 37 (39, 41,45) (49, 55, 57, 63, 67)dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next; cut the yarn
last dc of the previous short row, third leg into the next dc), 1dc in next; cut the yarn

After finishing all 4 short rows, you will still have 2 sts on the left and right of the back panel. We will work for the entire back panel on the separating round as a 5th short row.

BODY R1 – Splitting Row:
For sizes XS, M, L, and 3XL, the splitting row is on the RS
For Sizes S, XL, 2Xl, 4XL and 5XL the splitting round is on the WS
RS splitting row: Rejoin yarn into the first st of the back panel
1dc, dc3tog 1dc in next 41 (-, 45,49) (-, -, 61, -, -)dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next, ch 10 (-,12, 12) (-, -, 18, -, -) sts, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc in each of the front panel sts, ch 10 (-,12, 12) (-, -, 18, -, -) sts, skip the sleeve sts and sl st into the first dc. Turn

WS splitting round: rejoin yarn into the last st of the back panel
1dc, ch – (10, -, -) (14, 14, -, 18, 18) sts, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc in all the front panel sts, ch – (10, -, -) (14, 14, -, 18, 18) sts, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc in next, dc3tog, 1dc in each of the next sts until you have one st left, dc3tog and join with slst.
R2: 1dc in each st around. Close the round with sl st into the first dc.
Rep. R2 until you have 21 rounds or until you get to the desired length.

SLEEVES

Rejoin yarn at the armpit

R1:1dc in each st until the first 1ch-sp, (1ch, skip 1ch-sp, 1dc in next) x2 (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, 1ch, 1dc in each st until the end of the round. Close the round with an slst into the first dc. turn

R2 – R19: Rep. R1
R20: 4ch, skip 1st, *1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st. *rep. to the end of the round. Close the round with an sl st into the third ch. turn
R21 – R26: Rep. R20

After R26, you can continue to work more rounds just in dc until you complete the desired length,

BOTTOM HEM AND CUFFS RIBBING
Use a 4mm crochet hook
Start: 11ch
R1: start into the second st, 1sc into the next 11sts, 1sl st into the next 2sts of the Body/sleeve edge, turn
R2: 1scblo in next sts, except the last one, 1sc into the last st, 1ch and turn
R3: 1sc in the first st, 1sc blo into the next sts, 1ss into the next 2sts of the edge. Turn.
Rep. R2 and R3 until you complete the circumference of the body/sleeve.
Join the ends of the ribbing using slip stitches.

TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

 

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts, also.

And Done! It was a long pattern, but I hope to help people from all levels of experience, and many people to make it.

You can also find a video tutorial for more visual help.

https://youtu.be/m9LQt6whE78