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Crochet patterns July 17, 2018

Purple Love Lace Cardigan

This Purple Love Lace Cardigan was started few weeks ago. At first I wanted another shape of it, but I ended it like this and I am pleased with the final result.

I think is pretty easy to make it and I hope you will like it.

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You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

The pattern is available for multiple sizes, from S to 2X Large.

Even if the Purple Love Cardigan is oversized, with a 50 cm pozitive ease, I still have the pattern adjusted for each size. Is true that a smaller size will fit a bigger size too, but is up to you which size you will choose for you.

The Yarn I used is Scheepjes Whirl in color Brembleberry.

The pattern is designed to be enough one whirl for all sizes. If you are choosing to work with another hook size, you will need one whirlette for sizes like L, XL and XXL.

If you are choosing to work with different yarn, here is how much you will need.

I calculated the amount of yarn according to my gauge and according with the Whirl.

So, these values are approximate and there might be some differences. Also these values doesn’t include the border.

S – 140 grams / 640 m /700 yds
M – 150 grams / 680 m / 740 yds
L – 160 grams / 730 m / 800 yds
XL – 170 grams / 780 m / 850 yds
XXL – 180 grams / 820 m / 900 yds

The hook size I used is 5 mm or H in US size.

Gauge

In the Purple Love Lace Cardigan stitch pattern

19 st = 10 cm ( 4″)

9 rows =10 cm (4 “)

Or a more accurate gauge

16 dc = 10 cm (4 “)

7 rows in dc = 10 cm (4 “)

The Purple love lace cardigan stitch is very easy.

The pattern is simple to follow with only 2 rows repeat, but the 2 rows are pretty similar.

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Let’s see.

First, chain multiple of 8.

Row 1

Ch 6, 1 sc in the 9th st from the hook, ch 1, skip 1, 1 sc in the next, ch 3, skip 2, 1 dc in next,[ ch 3, skip 2, 1 sc, ch 1, skip 1, 1 sc, ch 3, skip 2, 1 dc]. Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the row.

Row 2

Ch 4, 1 dc in the next ch 1 space between the 2 sc from previous row, ch 3, [1 sc in the st before the next dc, ch 1, skip dc, 1 sc in the st after dc, ch 3, 1 dc in the next ch 1 space, ch 3].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the row. You will end the row with 1 sc in the 3rd st of the turning ch.

Row 3

Ch 6, [1 sc 1 the st before the next dc, ch 1, skip dc, 1 sc in the st after dc, ch 3, 1 dc in the next ch 1 space, ch 3].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the row and finish the row with 1 dc in the 3rd st of the turning chain.

From now on, just repeat rows 2 and 3 until you get to the desired length.

Now that we know the stitch, let’s look a little to the shape of the Purple Love Lace Cardigan and at it final measurements.

The Cardigan has a U shape. The measurement in brackets are for sizes M, L, XL and XXL.

You can follow this sketch if you want to work with other yarn, or other hook, or you don’t get to the gauge.

We will start the Purple Love Lace cardigan from the bottom of the back panel.

We will work untill geting to the shoulders and then we will work the 2 front panels.

Back panel

S – chain 136
M – chain 144
L – chain 152
XL – chain 160
XXL – chain 168

After making the foundation chain, begin working the Purple Love Lace Cardigan’s stitch as described in the pattern above, for 60 rows.

If you want your cardigan to be longer you can add more rows.

After finishing the back panel, we will mark the stitches for the front panels.

S – 50 sts for 1 panel, 36 sts for neck line, 50 sts for the other front panel
M – 53 sts for 1 panel, 38 sts for neck line, 53 sts for the other front panel
L – 56 sts for 1 panel, 40 sts for neck line, 56 sts for the other front panel
XL – 60 sts for 1 panel, 40 sts for neck line, 60 sts for the other front panel
XXL – 64 sts for 1 panel, 40 sts for neck line, 64 sts for the other front panel

Now, we will work the front panels. Because I wanted to keep the color change the same on both 2 panels, I worked 5 rows on each side until I had the same number of rows as for the back panel.

After finishing the front panel is time to assemble. Put the front panels over the back panel. Mark the arm hole.

S, M – 18 rows for the arm hole

L, XL, XXL – 21 rows for the arm hole

Now sew the 2 side edges.

Bassicaly now the Purple Love Lace Cardigan is done.

I just added a border, 2 rows in sc on sleeves, neck line, on the sides of the front panels and on the bottom.

Hope you liked this pattern and can’t wait to see your pictures.

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Bellow you will also find a video tutorial on how I did this cardigan.

Enjoy Crochet!

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Crochet patterns July 5, 2018

Plaid Summer Sweater. Crochet Pattern

Even if it’s summer you will need this Plaid Summer Sweater in your wardrobe for those cold evenings or for those cold days.

And why not have it? It’s so light and also chic and I would say just perfect ???

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You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

I love it and I just have the feeling that I am saying that about all my patterns ??.

This pattern is for sizes from S to XXL. We will work each square individual and we will join them as we go.

We will make the plaid summer sweater bigger just by adding more stitches on the square.

I used Scheepjes SoftFun. Is a DK Yarn, a mix of cotton and acrylic. The recommended size hook is 3.5 – 4 mm ( E – G ) and I used a 4.5 mm crochet hook ( size 7 US).

Here you can find some other yarn suggestions

You will approximate need:

S – 300 grams / 840 m / 915 yds
M – 325 grams / 910 m / 990 yds
L – 350 grams / 970 m / 1050 yds
XL – 370 grams / 1030 m / 1120 yds
XXL – 400 grams / 1100 m / 1200 yds

This is in total but you will need to split this values in 2 and choose 2 color that you like.

From Scheepjes SoftFun I used Mint Green and Dark Grey.

Final measurements of the sweater

S – Bust 92 cm ( 36.5 “), Length 58 cm ( 23 “)
M – Bust 104 cm ( 41 “) , Length 65 cm (25.5 “)
L – Bust 112 cm (44 “), Length 70 cm ( 27.5 “)
XL – Bust 124 cm ( 49″), Length 62 cm ( 24.5 “) or 77 cm (30 “)
XXL – Bust 132 cm (52″), Length 66 cm (26 “) or 82 cm (32,5 “)

Gauge

20 st = 11.5 cm ( 4.5″) ( filet stitch: 1 dc, ch 1, skip 1)

10 rows = 11.5 cm ( 4.5″)

With each bigger size the square will be bigger. So, the pattern is the same for all sizes.

S – 20 sts + 3 and 10 rows
M – 22 sts +3 and 11 rows
L – 24 sts +3 and 12 rows
XL – 26 sts +3 and 13 rows
XXL – 28 sts + 3 and 14 rows

We will use Filet Stitch:

Ch 4, skip 1st st, 1 dc in the next, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc] and repeat the section in [ ] to the end of the row. Repeat this row as pattern requires.

We will work 2 identical panels for back side and front side.

I guess, with all this being said we can start the this Plaid Summer Sweater.

Begin by making the first square according with the size in which you want to make this Plaid Summer Sweater.

Row 1 of squares

After making the 1 st square, change the color and we will begin to work square 2, but not on the top of the square as normal but on the side.

We will adding squares on the right until we get to the width that we need.

For all sizes we will have in total 4 squares. Remember that for each size the square has different measurements.

After finishing square #2 we will add in the same manner 2 more.

Well here is a sketch of the row 1.

Row 2 of squares

As you saw we alternate the colors with each square.

To begin the row 2, change the color and make the 1st square of the second row on the top of the last one made on the previous row.

Now beginning with square #2 of the second row we will start to join the squares with the correspondent square of the previous row.

Is important from now on to begin each of the next 3 squares on right side of your work, because the join with the other row will look better in this way.

To be easy to understand how we will work this 2nd row here is the sketch.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

So, the second square will start in the opposite corner where the yarn is after finishing the square #1.

Beginning with square #2, at the end of each row we will join with the correspondent row of the square on the previous row.

In general this will be the 2 situation of joining.

On second row we have the first situation.

So, at the end of the row, ch 1, sl st with the last dc of the correspondent row of the square on the previous row, ch 2, sl st with the last dc of the next row of the previous square, ch 1 and turn.

Continue with the stitch to the end of the row.

With the square #3 and #4 you will proceed the same as #2.

Row 3 of squares

As we made on the 2nd row, we will change color and make the first square on the top of the last one.

Now as I said, is important to join the squares on the right side of your work.

So, on row 3 we will work the squares 2 to 4 on the top of the ones made on previous row, and join them with the squares worked before on the current row.

Here is the sketch

Row 4 it will be the same as row 2. And row 5 the same as row 3.

As I said the bigger the square is the bigger the size. That’s why for sizes XL and XXL I let 2 measurements of length.

You will choose if you want to work 4 or 5 rows on these sizes.

After finishing all 4 or 5 rows, one panel is done and we will have to proceed the same in the second one.

Now that we have the 2 panels is time to assemble.

Sew on the shoulders the width of one square on each side.

Let 1 square and a half for the arm hole and sew the side edges.

Sleeves

I worked the sleeves, one with a color and one with the other.

We will work in rounds.

Insert the yarn into the stitch at the armpit.

Chain 4 and make the filet stitch all over the arm hole edge.

At the end of the round sl st with the 3rd stitch of the starting chain.

Repeat this row for as many rows as you want until you get to the desired length of the sleeve.

I made 26 rows and then I added a border of 2 rounds in single crochet made with the other color.

Repeat the same with the other sleeve.

At the end I added 1 row in single crochet on the collar and 2 rows in sc on the bottom.

And this was it.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

I found this pattern fun to make and also easy, but what I enjoyed the most is because is different. Hope you will like it and give it a try.

Bellow you will find the video tutorial.

Crochet patterns June 27, 2018

Enjoy Summer Top. Crochet pattern

I love to make summer clothes in crochet so here I am with another pattern with my new Enjoy Summer Top.

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You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

You can purchase it with a 35% off in the Crochet Patterns for Summer Bundle along with other 6 crochet patterns.

Love it ???. You can use it as a top with a pair of jeans or leggings or you can use it as a beach dress.

I let a small opening on the sides because even if is crochet, has to be sexy. What I love the most is that anyone can wear one of this, that’s why this pattern is available in multiple sizes, from S to XXL.

I loved making this because it was easy and fast, so you have to try it.

Final measurements for each size are:

S – Bust 90 cm (36 “)
M – Bust 100 cm ( 40 “)
L – Bust 110 cm ( 44 “)
XL – Bust 120 cm (48 “)
XXL – Bust 130 cm (52 “)

The length is the same for all sizes, 70 cm (28″), but you can adjust it as you want.

As you saw in the pictures we will make a circle, that will be the center motif of this Enjoy summer Top and then we will transform this circle into a square.

I will give you the stitch numbers and rows for each size according to my gauge, but if you want to use another type of yarn or you didn’t get to the gauge, just keep the pattern of the circle until you get to the desired width. The width has to be half of the bust or your hips circumference.

I used for this Enjoy Summer Top, Scheepjes Cotton 8. This is a Fingering, Super Fine weight yarn, but you can use Fine weight too. I used a 3.5 mm ( E – 4 US Size) crochet hook.

You will approximate need for each size:

S – 850 yds ( 780 m/ 230 grams)
M – 940 yds (860 m/250 grams)
L – 1030 yds (940 m/280 grams)
XL – 1120 yds (1020 m/300 grams)
XXL – 1200 yds (1100 m /350 grams)

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
St (s) – stitch (es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Inc – increase

Special Stitches

V st – 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the same ch 1 space of the V st of the previous round.

Inc – 1 dc, ch 1,1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the same ch 1 space.

Gauge

18 dc = 10 cm (4 “)

8 rows = 10 cm (4 “)

With all that info set, let’s begin

Back side

We will start with a magic ring

For all Sizes

Round 1

Ch3, 11 dc inside the ring. Sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.

Round 2

Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st to the end of the round. Sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.

Round 3

Ch 4, 1 dc in the same st, ch 1, skip 1 st,[ 1 V st in the next, ch 1, skip 1 st] – repeat this section to the end of the round. Sl st with the 3 rd st of the turning ch.

Round 4

Ch 4, in the first space make 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 V st in the next space (ch 1 of the previous row V st), ch 1,[ Inc in the next space, ch 1, 1 V st in the next space, ch 1] – repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round. Sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.

Round 5

Ch 4, 1 dc in the same space, ch 1, 1 V st in the next ch 1 spaces until you get to the first V st after the inc made on the previous row and make in this space 1 inc. Continue to the end of the round and sl st with the 3rd st of the starting ch.

Beginning with round 5 we will follow the same pattern until row 15:

1 V st in each ch 1 space ( of the V sts of the previous round) , 1 Inc in the V st next to the inc made on the previous round.

I hate counting stitches, that’s why I tried to find a pattern that will help not to keep counting sts ??

At row 6 I changed the color, but you are free to play with colors as you wish.

Rounds 6 – 15

Repeat round 5

Round 16

Before round 16 I notice that on my circle, the edges began to curl, so at round 16 I didn’t increased I just made 1 V st in each V st of the previous round.

Round 17

1 V st in each V st of the previous round, 1 inc in the st that is after the inc on the round before the previous.

Keep repeating the rounds 16 and 17 until you get to the desired width or until you have in total:

S – 19 rounds (83 V sts)
M – 24 rounds (93 V sts)
L – 29 rounds ( 103 V sts)
XL – 34 rounds ( 113 V sts)
XXL – 39 round ( 123 V sts)

After finishing the circle is time to transform it in a square.

This is how we will do that:

Lay the circle flat. You will notice 4 segments that are straight ( top, bottom and side edges). Next to the straight segment put a notebook or a cardboard or something with straight and hard edges and mark the first st that is beginning to be far from the notebook.

Proceed the same until you have the first corner marked.

Now you will have to count the V sts and make sure that you have the same number of sts on the corners and on the straight lines that are opposite.

You notice that at the end of the rounds we have 1 V st in plus, but is not such a big deal. Just let this st on the one side edge and let the top and the bottom with the same number of V sts.

Size S

10 V sts for the corners,
10 V sts for the straight line on the top and on the bottom,
11 V sts one side edges (on one side you will have with 1 V st more)

Size M

12 V sts for the corners
11 V sts for the straight lines ( all 4)

Size L

13 V sts for the corners
12 V sts for the straight lines on the top and on the bottom
13 sts on the side edges

Size XL

14 V sts for the corners
14 V sts for the straight lines

Size XXL

15 V sts for the corners
15 V sts for the straight lines on top and bottom
16 V sts for the side edges

After you marked the sts for the corners is time to transform the circle in square.

We will work each corner separately.

Begin working on the right side and insert the hook and yarn in the first st of the corner.

Row 1

Ch 4, 1 V st in the next V st, 1 V st in each V st until you have 2 V sts left. In these 2 make 1 dc in the first, ch 1, 1 dc in the last V st. Turn

In this way we will decrease at the beginning and at the end of each row.

Repeat row 1 until you have no sts left.

Proceed the same with all corners.

This is how your square will look after you finish all the corners.

Is not perfect, but is a square ??

Now after you have the square, all you have to do is to work several more rows on the top and on the bottom until you get to the desired length.

I made 13 more rows on each side.

Now that you have the desired length the back side of the Enjoy summer Top is done and you will have to make the front part in the same way.

Then, when yoh have both parts, join them to finish the Top.

Sew on the shoulders 6 V sts on each side, approx 8-9 cm.

Let for the arm holes 20 cm for sizes S and M, and 23 – 25 cm for larger sizes. Then sew the side edges. I let a split on each side of 13 rows.

And this was it.

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

You can purchase it with a 35% off in the Crochet Patterns for Summer Bundle along with other 6 crochet patterns.

Hope you like it. Bellow you will find the video tutorial.

Enjoy crochet!

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