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Crochet patterns August 20, 2018

Blue Sky Cardi

This cute Blue Sky Cardi is actual the mini version of Sunny Cardi that I posted last week, but as everything mini, is so cute and can’t wait to see more pictures of it from you.

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You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Ravelry

About the design

The Blue Sky Cardi is worked starting with a square, letting spaces for the sleeves, then continue working the square to get to the length.

After that, work to make the front panels wider to have almost the same width as the back.

The sleeves are worked in rounds starting from the armpit, the bottom of the arm holes.

About materials you will need

The yarn I used is not a well known brand of yarn. I just order this yarn long time ago on e-bay. Only used it to try different stitches and never got a project for it.

Actually at first didn’t know what kind of yarn it is because I didn’t had a skein with label. But when I was almost finishing the Blue Sky Cardi, I found one last skein with label, so at least to be able to tell you about yarn composition and weight.

So, is a bamboo and cotton mix yarn and is very soft. I also have a similar yarn that I bought from hobbii.com and if you want to see more about it check here.(not an affiliate link. just want to give you an idea about the yarn)

The fact is that you can use any fingering 14 ply or sport 12 ply yarn. Even another weight of yarn if you want and just follow the measurements in the diagram bellow.

On the first row are the measurement in cm and on the second in inch. The first size is 2 years and the ones between ( ) are for 4, 6, 8 and 10 years old.

The hook size is 3.5 mm (E US Size).

You will also need stitch markers if you need to mark the corners and for marking the sleeves, scissors and a tapestry needle to wave in the ends.

This pattern is for sizes from 2 to 10 years.

Because the measurement are pretty closer at these ages I just made the pattern from 2 to 2 years. If you want to make the Blue Sky Cardi for an age that is between, make the smaller size. (For example my daughter has 2 years and 5 months and I made the 2 size.

Let’s see how much yarn we will need:

2 years – 140 gr / 500 m / 545 yds
4 years – 160 gr /590 m/640 yds
6 years – 190 gr / 700m/760 yds
8 years – 220 gr / 820 m/890 yds
10 years – 270 gr /980m/1060 yds

Gauge

22 dc = 10 cm (4″)

10 rows = 10 cm (4″)

Abbreviations:

Ch – chain

Dc – double crochet

St (s) – Stitch (es)

dc2tog – 2 double crochet worked together

sl st – slip stitch

The stitch pattern is easy to follow. 2 solid rounds worked in double crochet and 2 rounds worked in filet stitch.

Filet stitch

1dc, ch 1, skip 1, 1dc

Here is the chart with the stitch pattern and how it’s worked in a square.

Ok, with those things I said above, we are ready to start the Blue Sky Cardi.

Round 1

Make a magic circle, ch 3 and 11 dc inside the circle. Join with sl st with the 3rd stitch of the starting chain. This is counting as a first solid round.

Round 2

Solid round

The ch2 at the beginning of each solid round doesn’t count as a first stitch.

Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in the next st, [(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the next, 1 dc in the next 2 sts].

Repeat the section in [ ] to the end of the round. Sl st with the 1st dc.

Round 3

Filet round

Ch 4, skip 1, 1 dc in the next, ch 1, skip the next, (1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc ) in the ch 3 space, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in the next] – 3 times, ch 1, (1dc, ch 3, 1 dc) in the next ch 3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in the next, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in the next] – 2 times, ch 1, skip 1, (1 dc, ch 3, 1dc) in the next ch 3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in next, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in next] – 2 times, ch 1, skip 1, (1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc) in the next 3 ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in next, ch 1 and join with a sl st with the 3rd stitch of the starting ch.

At the end of this round make sure that you have the same number of little opened squares on each side. You should have 4.

Round 4

Filet round

Ch 4, skip the ch 1 space, 1 dc in the next, [ch 1, skip the next ch 1 space, 1 dc in the next].

Repeat the section in the [ ] until you get to the corner, the first ch 3 space.

Before and after the corner, always ch 1 when you work on filet round.

[( 1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc) in the ch 3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in next, [ch 1, skip the next ch 1 space, 1 dc in the next] – repeat this section to the next ch 3 space.]

Repeat the section between [ ] until you get to the end of the round. Sl st with the 3rd st of the starting ch.

Round 5

solid rounds

ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [1 dc in each st to the corner, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the ch 3 space].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round.

Round 6

Repeat round 5.

From now on we will alternate 2 filet rounds and 2 solid rounds until we get to the width of the cross back.

2 years – 12 rounds
4 years – 13
6 years – 14
8 years – 15
10 years – 16

On the next round we will let the spaces for the arm hole.

Lay your square flat. Count from the up corner (not counting the stitches in the corner) the number of sts that you need for the arm hole depth and put a stitch marker. Proceed the same on the other side.

2 years – 22 sts
4 years – 26
6 years – 28
8 years – 30
10 years – 32

Start the round as usual, and work the round to the first corner. Make the stitches in the ch 3 space on the corner and then chain the same number of sts that you left for the arm hole depth.

Skip the sts for the arm hole and make 1 dc in the marked st. Continue the round as usual until you get to the next stitch marker.

Make a dc here, then ch the number of sts for the arm hole depth. Skip the stitches and move to the corner. Make the sts in the corner and continue your round to the end.

Starting with the next round we will continue to alternate 2 filet rounds with 2 solid rounds, until we get to the length of our Blue Sky Cardi.

2 years – 13 rounds
4 years – 14 rounds
6 years – 15 rounds
8 years – 14 rounds
10 years – 17 rounds

At the end of these rounds the main square is done and we have only to work the sleeves and to make the front panels wider.

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Ravelry

Extending the front panels

Working on the wrong side, insert the hook in the corner.

This extension I calculated to start with a filet round, but if not just start with the row that you have and continue to alternate 2 rounds in filet and 2 solid rounds:

2 years – 12 rows
4 years – 12 rows
6 years – 16 rows
8 years – 16 rows
10 years – 16 rows

Sleeves

The sleeves are worked in rounds starting from the armpit.

Round 1

Insert the hook and yarn to the armpit, at the bottom of arm hole.

Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st and continue with 1 dc in each st to the end of the round. Sl st with the 1st dc.

Round 2 and 3

These 2 rounds are made in filet.

Round 4 and 5

Ch 2, dc2tog, continue with 1 dc in each st until you have 2 sts left. In these 2 sts make dc2 tog and join.

Continue alternating 2 rounds in filet and 2 solid rounds with a decrease at the beginning and at the end of the round until you have 17 rounds in total.

After 17 rounds you will stop decreasing on the solid row and continue working on the sleeve length until you have in total:

2 years – 21 rounds
4 years – 25 rounds
6 years – 29 rounds
8 years – 31 rounds
10 years – 31 rounds

If you want shorter or longer sleeve make more or less rounds.

Repeat the same with the other sleeve.

And this was it. I really love this Blue Sky Cardi and every child will look so cute in it. You must try this. Can’t wait to see your pictures.

And because is the same shape as Sunny Cardi only counting less rounds, if you need to watch a video tutorial to make this Bkue Sky Cardi the Sunny Cardi video tutorial might be helpful.

Hope you will like this pattern and give it a try.

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Ravelry

https://ro.pinterest.com/katerina6795/free-crochet-patterns/

Crochet patterns August 15, 2018

Sunny Cardi

Is been a while since I wanted to make 1 big square cardigan and here is the Sunny Cardi.

It will be the perfect garment for the late summer and the early autumn.

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You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

About the design

This Sunny Cardi is worked like a big square with arm holes left and with the front panels made wider.

The sleeves are worked joining the yarn at the bottom of the arm hole and then working them in rounds.

This Sunny Cardi is a single piece so no assembling necessary.

It’s designed for a closer cross back fit.

Bellow you will find the Sunny Cardi diagram with the final measurements and an overview over the shape.

The pattern is available for sizes from S to XXXL

Yardage

For this cardigan you will approximate need:

S – 1120 m / 1225 yds
S – 1120 m / 1225 yds
M – 1200 m / 1320 yds
L – 1280 m / 1400 yds
XL – 1360 m / 1500 yds
XXL – 1420 m / 1550 yds
XXXL – 1510 m / 1650 yds

The recommended yarn weight is 12 ply, Sport Yarn or 14 ply fingering.

Hook size : 4mm ( G )

Gauge

16 dc = 10 cm (4″)

9 rows = 10 cm (4″)

Let’s talk about the yarn a little bit more. I used Cotton Kings Twirl and for the purple and black stripes, fingering cotton.

At first I thought that one Twirl will be enough for my size, but I realize that it won’t, so I came up with the purple and black stripes which I love.

The Twirl that I used is with no colors change, only one color with gradient shades. I choose to use only one twirl and other colors.

Above you have the total amount of yarn that you will need for this cardigan.

One Twirl has approximate 800 m / 875 yds. Is up to you if you choose to work with 2 twirls or with a single one and choose another yarn for the rest.

You may also like one of the most appreciated 3 patterns of this summer

1. Sea Breeze Cover Up 2. Summer Crocheted vest 3. Basic T-shirt

Now let’s go back to the pattern.

Abbreviations:

Ch – chain

Dc – double crochet

St (s) – Stitch (es)

dc2tog – 2 double crochet worked together

sl st – slip stitch

The stitch pattern is easy to follow. 2 solid rounds worked in double crochet and 2 rounds worked in filet stitch.

Filet stitch

1dc, ch 1, skip 1, 1dc

Here is the chart with the stitch pattern and how it’s worked in a square.

One more thing:

If you are choosing another yarn weight or you can not get to the gauge, make your own gauge and according with the measurement in the diagram you can adjust this pattern to your gauge.

See here how.

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Let’s start.

Round 1

Make a magic circle, ch 3 and 11 dc inside the circle. Join with sl st with the 3rd stitch of the starting chain. This is counting as a first solid round.

Round 2

Solid round

The ch2 at the beginning of each solid round doesn’t count as a first stitch.

Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in the next st, [(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the next, 1 dc in the next 2 sts].

Repeat the section in [ ] to the end of the round. Sl st with the 1st dc.

Round 3

Filet round

At the end of this round make sure that you have the same number of little opened squares on each side. You should have 4.

Round 4

Filet round

Ch 4, skip the ch 1 space, 1 dc in the next, [ch 1, skip the next ch 1 space, 1 dc in the next].

Repeat the section in the [ ] until you get to the corner, the first ch 3 space.

Before and after the corner, always ch 1 when you work on filet round.

[( 1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc) in the ch 3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in next, [ch 1, skip the next ch 1 space, 1 dc in the next] – repeat this section to the next ch 3 space.]

Repeat the section between [ ] until you get to the end of the round. Sl st with the 3rd st of the starting ch.

At this round, and starting from now, on each rounds in filet, you just have to make 1 dc in each dc of the previous round with ch 1 between. In the corners always we will do on filet round, ch 1 before, 1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc in the ch 3 space, ch 1 after.

Round 5

solid rounds

ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [1 dc in each st to the corner, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the ch 3 space].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round.

Round 6

Repeat round 5.

From now on we will alternate 2 filet rounds and 2 solid rounds until we get to the width of the cross back.

On the next round we will make the arm holes.

S – 32 sts
M – 34
L – 36
XL – 38
XXL – 40
XXXL – 40

Start the round as usual, and work the round to the first corner. Make the stitches in the ch 3 space on the corner and then chain the same number of sts that you left for the arm hole depth.

Skip the sts for the arm hole and make 1 dc in the marked st. Continue the round as usual until you get to the next stitch marker.

Make a dc here, then ch the number of sts for the arm hole depth. Skip the stitches and move to the corner. Make the sts in the corner and continue your round to the end.

Starting with the next round we will continue to alternate 2 filet round with 2 solid rounds, until we get to the length of our Sunny Cardi.

S – 16 rounds
M – 19 rounds
L – 20 rounds
XL – 20 rounds
XXL – 21 rounds
XXXL – 22 rounds

At the end of these rounds the main square is done and we have only to work the sleeves and to make the front panels wider.

Extending the front panels

Working on the wrong side, insert the hook in the corner.

This extension I calculated to start with a filet round, but if not just start with the row that you have and continue to alternate 2 rounds in filet and 2 solid rounds until you have 16 in total, working only on the side of the front panel of the Sunny Cardi.

On my Sunny Cardi, I made these rows 8 with purple, and 8 with black.

Proceed the same on the other side.

Sleeves

The sleeves are worked in rounds starting from the armpit.

They have the same length for all sizes but you can add more rounds if you want longer sleeves.

Round 1

Insert the hook and yarn to the armpit, at the bottom of arm hole.

Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st and continue with 1 dc in each st to the end of the round. Sl st with the 1st dc.

Round 2 and 3

These 2 rounds are made in filet.

Round 4 and 5

Ch 2, dc2tog, continue with 1 dc in each st until you have 2 sts left. In these 2 sts make dc2 tog and join.

Continue alternating 2 rounds in filet and 2 solid rounds with a decrease at the beginning and at the end of the round until you have 25 rounds in total.

Continue with 8 more rounds, without decreasing. If you consider that the sleeve is too large after 25 rounds you can continue decreasing on the solid rounds.

Proceed the same with the other sleeve.

After finishing the sleeves, the Sunny Cardi is done. You can add o border if you want on the top and on the bottom.

What do you think? Hope you liked this pattern and you will give it a try.

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Bellow you will find the video tutorial.

PS I am working now on the children version of this Sunny Cardi, so keep an eye on my blog.

https://ro.pinterest.com/katerina6795/free-crochet-patterns/

Crochet patterns August 7, 2018

3 in 1 Crocheted Top – Skirt

Hey there! Here is my new Crocheted Top – Skirt that I made last week. It’s a very easy and fun project. Easy because you can make it in any size you want from children sizes to any adult size.

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You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

All the last year adult autumn winter patterns are available for just 1 Euro if you purchase the bundle of 9 or 2 Euros if you want to purchase an individual pattern in this category.

Click the image above or visit my shop.

Looks nice isn’t it? You can make it longer or shorter depending on your taste and time.

Materials

14 ply Fingering yarn or 12 ply Sport Yarn (I used Cotton Kings TWIRLS. You can find this yarn following the next link (not an affiliate link ) hobbii.com
3.5 mm (E) and 4 mm (G) hook size
Elastic band
sewing needle
scissors
measuring tape
yarn for sewing

Final Measurement (waist)

S – 66 cm (26 “)
M – 74 cm (29″)
L – 84 cm (33″)
1X – 94 cm (37″)
2X – 104 cm (41″)
3X – 112 cm (44″)

The length is for all sizes 50 cm ( 19.5 “), but you can adjust the length of the crocheted top-skirt by making more or less rounds.

Yardage

If you obtain the same gauge as mine or the same number of sts for each size then you will need approximate:

S – 875 yds / 800 m / 200 gr
M – 1000 yds / 914 m /230 gr
L – 1130 yds / 1030 m / 260 gr
1X – 1250 yds / 1140 m / 285 gr
2X – 1380 yds /1260 m / 320 gr
3X – 1490 yds /1360 m / 340 gr

Gauge

with 3.5 mm (E) hook

18 dc = 10 cm (4″)

10 rows = 10 cm (4″)

In 10 cm of elastic band I had 50 sc

What stitches you will have to know

Chain (ch)
Single Crochet (Sc)
Double crochet (dc)
Slip stitch (sl st)
2 double crochet worked together (dc2tog) – yarn over, insert the hook trough the st, yarn over and pull the yarn trough first 2 loops ( keep 2 loops on your hook. Repeat 2 times. Yarn over and pull the yar trough all 3 loops on your hook
4 double crochet worked together (dc4tog) – the same as dc2tog, only that you will do this for time, in 4 sts.

Now we can start the Top-skirt.

First, grab a measuring tape and measure your waist, or you can get the elastic band it self and put it around your waist. The idea is that after this procedure you will have one elastic band that measures your waist.

Next, sew the edges of the elastic band, to make a circle.

The measurements of the elastic band are the same as the final waist measurement that I listed above.

Round 1

In single crochet, we will work in rounds and cover the elastic band. When you get to the end of the round sl st to join.

Round 2

Ch 1 and 1 sc in each stitch. At this round you will have to count the sts that you have.

According to my gauge you should have:

S – 332 sts
M – 372 sts
L – 422 sts
1X – 472 sts
2X – 522 sts
3X – 562 sts

If you don’t have the same number of sts is not a problem. We will adjust the number of sts on the next round.

All you have to know is that gauge isn’t that important in this crocheted top-skirt pattern. If the elastic band fits your waist then every thing will be just perfect.

The only think that matter is to have a multiple of 16 sts. As you can see, the numbers above aren’t multiple of 16, that’s why we will do the next round in double crochet and we will adjust that.

Round 3

1 dc in each st and as many increases that you need to get to a multiple of 16 sts.

Let’s see how we can find how many increases you have to make on this round.

Divide the number of sts that you have by 16.

ex: 332 ÷ 16 = 20.75

Now take the next number (in the ex above 21) and multiply it with 16 (21 × 16 = 336).

So in hour example we will need 336 sts to have a multiple of 16. We have 332 sts, so we will need 4 more sts. So we will do 4 increases during the round 3.

So:

S – we have 332 sts and we will add 4 sts, in total 336 sts
M – we have 372 sts, add 12 sts, in total 384 sts
L – we have 422 sts, add 10 sts, in total 432 sts
1X – we have 472 sts, add 8 sts, in total 480 sts
2X – we have 522 sts, add 6 sts, in total 528 sts
3X – we have 562 sts, add 14 sts, in total 576 sts

Now that we have the needed number of sts, we can begin with the stitch pattern of our Crocheted Top-Skirt.

We will start counting the round again from 1.

This is the chart for the stitch of the Crocheted Top-Skirt:

Stitch pattern source: ellej.org

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

We will work in rounds so we will start and end a little bit different.

Round 1

Begin with 3 sl st. Ch 3. This chain 3 counts as a first dc. 1 dc in the same ch 3 st, 1 dc in the next 3 sts. Ch 3, skip 3 sts, 1 dc in the next 3, 2 dc in the next.

[Ch 3, skip the next 5 sts, 2 dc in the next, 1 dc in the next 3 sts. Ch 3, skip the next 3 sts, 1 dc in the next 3, 2 dc in the next].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round. The round will end with ch 3, skip the last 5 sts and join with sl st with the 3rd st of the starting ch.

Round 2

Ch 3, 1 dc in the next 2 sts, dc2tog in the next 2

[ch 5, skip the ch 3, dc2tog in the next 2 sts, 1 dc in the next 3, ch 2, skip the ch 3, 1 dc in the next 3 sts, dc2tog in the next 2].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round. The round will end with dc2tog, 1 dc in the next 3, ch 2 and join with sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.

Round 3

Ch 3, 1 dc in the next st, dc2tog in the next 2.

[ch 3, 2 dc in the 3rd st of the 5 sts chain, ch 3, dc2tog in the next 2 sts, 1 dc in the next 2, ch 1, skip the ch 2, 1 dc in the next 2 sts, dc2tog in the next 2]

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round. The round will end with dc2tog, 1 dc in the next 2 sts, ch 1 and join with the 3rd st of the starting chain.

Round 4

Ch 3, dc2tog in the next 2 sts.

[Ch 3, skip the ch 3, 3 dc in the next dc, ch 1, 3 dc in the next dc, ch 3, skip the ch 3, dc2tog in the next 2 sts, 1 dc in next, skip the ch1, 1 dc in the next st, dc2tog in the next 2 sts].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round. The round will end with dc2tog, 1 dc in next, join with the 3rd st of the starting ch.

Round 5

Ch2, 1 dc in the next.

[Ch3, skip the ch 3, 2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 2, ch 2, 1 dc in the next 2, ch 3, dc4tog]

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round ending the round with 3 partial dc, then insert the hook into the st at the beginning of the round, yarn over end pull the yarn trough all loops on your hook( we will finish this way the dc4tog).

So, these are the first 5 rounds that we will have to repeat to the end of our Crocheted Top-Skirt.

Round 6 and each next round after a set of 5, will be the same as round 1. Just a little bit different counting that we are not working in a foundation.

Let’s see:

First, every round after a set of 5, has to start in a dc. So, we will slip the stitches to the first dc ( a ch 3).

Then, ch3, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in the next 3 sts, ch 3, skip the ch 2, 1 dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next.

[Ch 3, skip the (ch 3, dc4tog st, ch 3), 2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 3, ch 3, skip the ch 2, 1 dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round ending the round with ch 3, skip the ch 2, 1 dc in the next 3, 2 dc in next, ch 3, skip (ch 3, dc4tog, ch 3) and join with the 3rd st of the starting chain.

The other 4 rounds of a set of 5, will be the same as rounds 2, 3, 4and 5.

Repeat the set of 5 rounds until you get do the desired length. I made 35 rounds, but if you want a shorter or a longer skirt or top make more or less rounds.

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Hope you will like this pattern also and you will try it. Can’t wait to see your pictures.

???

Bellow you will find the video tutorial.

https://ro.pinterest.com/katerina6795/free-crochet-patterns/