sweet crochet – ByKaterina

Crochet patterns September 6, 2018

Jar Candle Holder

Since I needed a little break from my bigger projects, I came up with this beautiful Jar Candle Holder Pattern.

I have to be honest that I didn’t expect that will be something that I will post on the blog, but they are so beautiful and easyn that I’m sure some of you would love to try.

You can purchase the easy printable add-free pdf pattern from here

What is amaizing is that you can use it for a lot of things: as a candle holder ( this was what I had in mind when I started doing them), as a vase for your favorite flowers, in the bathroom for make up tools and so on.

Plus, I think is a great gift, if you want to surprise someone you love.

And even more, is just a couple of hours project, so why not to try it.

Ok, now about the pattern.

I am assuming that it will be difficult for you to find a jar with the same dimensions as the ones that I used, so I will give you the pattern for the jars that I used, but also some tips on how to do this Jar Candle Holder no matter what kind of jar you use, what yarn on hook size.

But first, let’s see what do you need:

a jar
Yarn
Appropriate hook size
1 stitch marker
a ribbon or something to tie the crocheted cover on the top
other accessories if you want

Now, I made these Jar Candle Holder in 2 sizes using different yarn. The good part was, that the pattern worked for both.

I think that is important that the top of the jar to be smaller then the bottom.

The bigger jar has 30 cm (12 “) circumference and 14 cm (5.5”) high.

For this one I used a thicker mercerized cotton thread (the same one that I used for the Summer Crocheted vest) and a 2.5 mm (4/0) hook.

The smaller jar has 24 cm (9.5″) circumference and 11 cm (4.5″).

For this one I used Scheepjes Maxi Thread, which is also mercerized cotton, but much thinner, so the hook size was 1.75 mm (0).

You can use any yarn you want. I recommend to use thread or super fine weight yarn ( everything that is between 1 ply and 3 ply), but you can try with another type of yarn too.

Gauge

I don’t know if this will help since you may not have the same jar size, but after 14 rounds in single crochet my circle had almost 30 cm (12″) circumference ( worked with the thicker yarn) and 24 cm (9.5″) working with the thinner yarn.

Abbreviations used in this pattern

Ch – chain

St (s) – stitch (es)

Sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

inc – increase (2 sc in the same stitch)

Now we can start to make this beautiful Jar Candle Holder.

We will work in rounds. If you want for the bottom you can work in continuos rounds.

Round 1

Make a magic circle, ch 1 and 6 sc inside the circle. Sl st to join.

Round 2

1 inc (2 sc) in each stitch (12 sts). Sl st to join.

Round 3

[1 inc, 1 sc] repeat 6 times (18 sts) sl st to join

Round 4

[1 inc, 1 sc in the next 2 st] repeat 6 times (24 sts). Sl st to join.

Round 5

[1 inc, 1 sc in next 3 sts] repeat 6 times (30 sts). sl st to join.

And you will have to continue adding with each round 1 sc between increases until you get to the desired circumference.

To be more easy for every one, no matter what jar or yarn you use, just put the jar over the circle and when the edge of your circle is a little bigger then the jar bottom then you have the right size.

Don’t worry if the circle is a little bigger, at the end when you will tie the crochet cover, it will stretch out and will fit just perfect.

I made 14 rounds in total to get the size of my jar.

After getting to the right size we will stop increasing and working just in rounds.

Now, depending on your jar’s size you can adjust this pattern to have the desired look at the end.

I just measured the high of the jar, before the top starts to be smaller and I approximate the numbers of rounds that I will make. I wanted the mesh middle part to be bigger then the parts in single crochet.

So, I started with rounds in single crochet and I made 1 sc in each stitch, for 8 rounds. After stretching the work to fit the jar’s high this part measured almost 3 cm (1″)

After these rounds I started the mesh stitch.

Round 1

Start the round with ch 1 and 1 sc in the same st. [Ch 5, skip 3 sts, 1 sc in the next] repeat this section to the end of the round. Finish the round with ch 5 and sl st with the 1st sc.

Round 2

2 sl st, 1 sc in the 3rd st. [Ch 5, 1 sc in the 3rd st of the next 5 sts chain] repeat this section to the end of the round, ending with ch 5 and sl st with the 1st sc.

Now repeat this round as meny times as you want until you have the desired length with this stitch.

Have in mind that at the end you will have to stretch the work to fit the jar, so when you are trying your work on the jar make sure tu pull and stretch it.

I made 5 rounds with this stitch and the 6th round I made it to make the top edge straight and instead of ch 5, I chained 3.

The mash part was measuring after stretching 5.5 mm (2″).

After this round I started again with sc and made 4 rounds. (1.5 cm, 1″).

Next round

Ch 4, skip 1 st, 1 dc in next, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in next] and repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round.

We made this round to have some holes to insert the ribbon and tie the crocheted cover of the Jar Candle Holder.

The final round or rounds if you want to make more then one round, we will do a shell st, just to add a beautiful edge to our piece.

Start the round with 1 sc in the 1st ch 1 space, [ in the next one make 1 shell (7 dc in the same ch 1 space), skip the next space and 1 sc in the next one].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round.

Now all you have to do is to insert a ribbon trough the filet stitch round’s holes and tie. Stretch the work, pulling up until you notice that the cover fits well the jar.

And done. You now have a beautiful piece to put somwhere in your home.

I hope you love this Jar Candle Holder as I do and make one.

Scroll down a little bit more and download the pdf pattern. Only today you can have the pdf for free.

Enjoy crochet!

You can purchase the easy printable add-free pdf pattern from here

Crochet patterns August 15, 2018

Sunny Cardi

Is been a while since I wanted to make 1 big square cardigan and here is the Sunny Cardi.

It will be the perfect garment for the late summer and the early autumn.

Pentru postarea in limba romana, click aici

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

About the design

This Sunny Cardi is worked like a big square with arm holes left and with the front panels made wider.

The sleeves are worked joining the yarn at the bottom of the arm hole and then working them in rounds.

This Sunny Cardi is a single piece so no assembling necessary.

It’s designed for a closer cross back fit.

Bellow you will find the Sunny Cardi diagram with the final measurements and an overview over the shape.

The pattern is available for sizes from S to XXXL

Yardage

For this cardigan you will approximate need:

S – 1120 m / 1225 yds
S – 1120 m / 1225 yds
M – 1200 m / 1320 yds
L – 1280 m / 1400 yds
XL – 1360 m / 1500 yds
XXL – 1420 m / 1550 yds
XXXL – 1510 m / 1650 yds

The recommended yarn weight is 12 ply, Sport Yarn or 14 ply fingering.

Hook size : 4mm ( G )

Gauge

16 dc = 10 cm (4″)

9 rows = 10 cm (4″)

Let’s talk about the yarn a little bit more. I used Cotton Kings Twirl and for the purple and black stripes, fingering cotton.

At first I thought that one Twirl will be enough for my size, but I realize that it won’t, so I came up with the purple and black stripes which I love.

The Twirl that I used is with no colors change, only one color with gradient shades. I choose to use only one twirl and other colors.

Above you have the total amount of yarn that you will need for this cardigan.

One Twirl has approximate 800 m / 875 yds. Is up to you if you choose to work with 2 twirls or with a single one and choose another yarn for the rest.

You may also like one of the most appreciated 3 patterns of this summer

1. Sea Breeze Cover Up 2. Summer Crocheted vest 3. Basic T-shirt

Now let’s go back to the pattern.

Abbreviations:

Ch – chain

Dc – double crochet

St (s) – Stitch (es)

dc2tog – 2 double crochet worked together

sl st – slip stitch

The stitch pattern is easy to follow. 2 solid rounds worked in double crochet and 2 rounds worked in filet stitch.

Filet stitch

1dc, ch 1, skip 1, 1dc

Here is the chart with the stitch pattern and how it’s worked in a square.

One more thing:

If you are choosing another yarn weight or you can not get to the gauge, make your own gauge and according with the measurement in the diagram you can adjust this pattern to your gauge.

See here how.

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Let’s start.

Round 1

Make a magic circle, ch 3 and 11 dc inside the circle. Join with sl st with the 3rd stitch of the starting chain. This is counting as a first solid round.

Round 2

Solid round

The ch2 at the beginning of each solid round doesn’t count as a first stitch.

Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in the next st, [(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the next, 1 dc in the next 2 sts].

Repeat the section in [ ] to the end of the round. Sl st with the 1st dc.

Round 3

Filet round

Ch 4, skip 1, 1 dc in the next, ch 1, skip the next, (1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc ) in the ch 3 space, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in the next] – 3 times, ch 1, (1dc, ch 3, 1 dc) in the next ch 3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in the next, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in the next] – 2 times, ch 1, skip 1, (1 dc, ch 3, 1dc) in the next ch 3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in next, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in next] – 2 times, ch 1, skip 1, (1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc) in the next 3 ch space, ch 1, 1 dc in next, ch 1 and join with a sl st with the 3rd stitch of the starting ch.

At the end of this round make sure that you have the same number of little opened squares on each side. You should have 4.

Round 4

Filet round

Ch 4, skip the ch 1 space, 1 dc in the next, [ch 1, skip the next ch 1 space, 1 dc in the next].

Repeat the section in the [ ] until you get to the corner, the first ch 3 space.

Before and after the corner, always ch 1 when you work on filet round.

[( 1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc) in the ch 3 space, ch 1, 1 dc in next, [ch 1, skip the next ch 1 space, 1 dc in the next] – repeat this section to the next ch 3 space.]

Repeat the section between [ ] until you get to the end of the round. Sl st with the 3rd st of the starting ch.

At this round, and starting from now, on each rounds in filet, you just have to make 1 dc in each dc of the previous round with ch 1 between. In the corners always we will do on filet round, ch 1 before, 1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc in the ch 3 space, ch 1 after.

Round 5

solid rounds

ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [1 dc in each st to the corner, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the ch 3 space].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round.

Round 6

Repeat round 5.

From now on we will alternate 2 filet rounds and 2 solid rounds until we get to the width of the cross back.

On the next round we will make the arm holes.

Lay your square flat. Count from the up corner (not counting the stitches in the corner) the number of sts that you need for the arm hole depth and put a stitch marker. Proceed the same on the other side.

S – 32 sts
M – 34
L – 36
XL – 38
XXL – 40
XXXL – 40

Start the round as usual, and work the round to the first corner. Make the stitches in the ch 3 space on the corner and then chain the same number of sts that you left for the arm hole depth.

Skip the sts for the arm hole and make 1 dc in the marked st. Continue the round as usual until you get to the next stitch marker.

Make a dc here, then ch the number of sts for the arm hole depth. Skip the stitches and move to the corner. Make the sts in the corner and continue your round to the end.

Starting with the next round we will continue to alternate 2 filet round with 2 solid rounds, until we get to the length of our Sunny Cardi.

S – 16 rounds
M – 19 rounds
L – 20 rounds
XL – 20 rounds
XXL – 21 rounds
XXXL – 22 rounds

At the end of these rounds the main square is done and we have only to work the sleeves and to make the front panels wider.

Extending the front panels

Working on the wrong side, insert the hook in the corner.

This extension I calculated to start with a filet round, but if not just start with the row that you have and continue to alternate 2 rounds in filet and 2 solid rounds until you have 16 in total, working only on the side of the front panel of the Sunny Cardi.

On my Sunny Cardi, I made these rows 8 with purple, and 8 with black.

Proceed the same on the other side.

Sleeves

The sleeves are worked in rounds starting from the armpit.

They have the same length for all sizes but you can add more rounds if you want longer sleeves.

Round 1

Insert the hook and yarn to the armpit, at the bottom of arm hole.

Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st and continue with 1 dc in each st to the end of the round. Sl st with the 1st dc.

Round 2 and 3

These 2 rounds are made in filet.

Round 4 and 5

Ch 2, dc2tog, continue with 1 dc in each st until you have 2 sts left. In these 2 sts make dc2 tog and join.

Continue alternating 2 rounds in filet and 2 solid rounds with a decrease at the beginning and at the end of the round until you have 25 rounds in total.

Continue with 8 more rounds, without decreasing. If you consider that the sleeve is too large after 25 rounds you can continue decreasing on the solid rounds.

Proceed the same with the other sleeve.

After finishing the sleeves, the Sunny Cardi is done. You can add o border if you want on the top and on the bottom.

What do you think? Hope you liked this pattern and you will give it a try.

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Bellow you will find the video tutorial.

PS I am working now on the children version of this Sunny Cardi, so keep an eye on my blog.

https://ro.pinterest.com/katerina6795/free-crochet-patterns/

Crochet patterns July 17, 2018

Purple Love Lace Cardigan

This Purple Love Lace Cardigan was started few weeks ago. At first I wanted another shape of it, but I ended it like this and I am pleased with the final result.

I think is pretty easy to make it and I hope you will like it.

Pentru postarea in limba romana, click aici

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

The pattern is available for multiple sizes, from S to 2X Large.

Even if the Purple Love Cardigan is oversized, with a 50 cm pozitive ease, I still have the pattern adjusted for each size. Is true that a smaller size will fit a bigger size too, but is up to you which size you will choose for you.

The Yarn I used is Scheepjes Whirl in color Brembleberry.

The pattern is designed to be enough one whirl for all sizes. If you are choosing to work with another hook size, you will need one whirlette for sizes like L, XL and XXL.

If you are choosing to work with different yarn, here is how much you will need.

I calculated the amount of yarn according to my gauge and according with the Whirl.

So, these values are approximate and there might be some differences. Also these values doesn’t include the border.

S – 140 grams / 640 m /700 yds
M – 150 grams / 680 m / 740 yds
L – 160 grams / 730 m / 800 yds
XL – 170 grams / 780 m / 850 yds
XXL – 180 grams / 820 m / 900 yds

The hook size I used is 5 mm or H in US size.

Gauge

In the Purple Love Lace Cardigan stitch pattern

19 st = 10 cm ( 4″)

9 rows =10 cm (4 “)

Or a more accurate gauge

16 dc = 10 cm (4 “)

7 rows in dc = 10 cm (4 “)

The Purple love lace cardigan stitch is very easy.

The pattern is simple to follow with only 2 rows repeat, but the 2 rows are pretty similar.

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Let’s see.

First, chain multiple of 8.

Row 1

Ch 6, 1 sc in the 9th st from the hook, ch 1, skip 1, 1 sc in the next, ch 3, skip 2, 1 dc in next,[ ch 3, skip 2, 1 sc, ch 1, skip 1, 1 sc, ch 3, skip 2, 1 dc]. Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the row.

Row 2

Ch 4, 1 dc in the next ch 1 space between the 2 sc from previous row, ch 3, [1 sc in the st before the next dc, ch 1, skip dc, 1 sc in the st after dc, ch 3, 1 dc in the next ch 1 space, ch 3].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the row. You will end the row with 1 sc in the 3rd st of the turning ch.

Row 3

Ch 6, [1 sc 1 the st before the next dc, ch 1, skip dc, 1 sc in the st after dc, ch 3, 1 dc in the next ch 1 space, ch 3].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the row and finish the row with 1 dc in the 3rd st of the turning chain.

From now on, just repeat rows 2 and 3 until you get to the desired length.

Now that we know the stitch, let’s look a little to the shape of the Purple Love Lace Cardigan and at it final measurements.

The Cardigan has a U shape. The measurement in brackets are for sizes M, L, XL and XXL.

You can follow this sketch if you want to work with other yarn, or other hook, or you don’t get to the gauge.

We will start the Purple Love Lace cardigan from the bottom of the back panel.

We will work untill geting to the shoulders and then we will work the 2 front panels.

Back panel

S – chain 136
M – chain 144
L – chain 152
XL – chain 160
XXL – chain 168

After making the foundation chain, begin working the Purple Love Lace Cardigan’s stitch as described in the pattern above, for 60 rows.

If you want your cardigan to be longer you can add more rows.

After finishing the back panel, we will mark the stitches for the front panels.

S – 50 sts for 1 panel, 36 sts for neck line, 50 sts for the other front panel
M – 53 sts for 1 panel, 38 sts for neck line, 53 sts for the other front panel
L – 56 sts for 1 panel, 40 sts for neck line, 56 sts for the other front panel
XL – 60 sts for 1 panel, 40 sts for neck line, 60 sts for the other front panel
XXL – 64 sts for 1 panel, 40 sts for neck line, 64 sts for the other front panel

Now, we will work the front panels. Because I wanted to keep the color change the same on both 2 panels, I worked 5 rows on each side until I had the same number of rows as for the back panel.

After finishing the front panel is time to assemble. Put the front panels over the back panel. Mark the arm hole.

S, M – 18 rows for the arm hole

L, XL, XXL – 21 rows for the arm hole

Now sew the 2 side edges.