And the Warm Me Up Sweater is finally here!!! 

I had in mind this sweater since last year when I designed the crochet version, Rainy Cloud Jumper. I visualized first this design as knitted, but I don’t know why I went for crochet first. Or I do know…I am still way more confident in crochet than knitting.

But, it’s ok! Better later than never, right? 

I started this sweater back in September when Lang Yarns send me some samples of  LAng Neon.  I fell in love at first touch, and I immediately sent them the idea of this Warm Me Up Sweater and asked them if they will like to sponsor the project. And they did! (took me a while to realize that this is how things work…You want something, ask for it, don’t wait to receive because you will wait like forever πŸ˜…)

Anyway, I know it took me a while because I am not such a faster knitter as a crocheter and had some projects in the meantime, but I am super in love with this sweater. As a crocheter, most of the time, I feel so good after finishing a knitting project, you can’t imagine.

But enough talking, let’s dig into the making process and see how I made this sweater.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

MATERIALS

  • Yarn
    • Category 5 ( Bulky Weight Yarn)
  • Needles
    • 8 mm circular needles (40 cm cable for the sleeve and 80 to 100 or 120 cm cable for the sweater)
  • You will need a yarn needle for wave in ends
  • Scissors
  • 8 stitch markers

 

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

This pattern requires techniques like knitting and purl stitch, working in the round, and increase.

After working the collar, turn the work, so when it’s folded, to show the work’s right side.

The Warm Me Up Sweater is worked top-down, seamless, and has positive ease around the bust circumference of about 14 cm.

The pattern is available in 8 sizes, from Small to 5 X Large, and wrote in US terms.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

Final measurements of the Warm Me Up Sweater are listed below.

Neck Line a: 41 cm (45, 50, 53, 55, 60, 65, 68)

Yoke depth b: 19 cm (20, 22, 24, 26, 27, 29, 31)

Bust Width c: 51 cm (56, 61, 66, 71, 76, 81, 86)

Sleeve Length d: 34 cm (34, 36, 36, 37, 37, 38, 38)

Sleeve circ. e: 41 cm (43, 46, 50, 55, 58, 62, 65)

Length f: 48 cm (49, 52, 54, 56, 57, 59, 61)

These measurements will fit:

To Fit cm  

S

 

M

 

L

 

XL

 

2XL

 

3XL

 

4XL

 

5XL

Bust 86 96 106 116 126 136 146 156

How much yarn do you need?

For the Warm Me Up Sweater, I used Lang Neon from Lang Yarns.

Each ball has 50 grams and approximately 85 meters.

Below you can find how much yarn you will need for each size.

For each size, you will approximate need:

Lang Neon S M L XL XXL 3XL 4XL 5XL
50 g/85 m
Yellow 11 12 13 15 16 17 19 21

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

For the entire sweater, except for the bottom hem and cuffs, a simple pattern is used.

R1: *k1, p1. Repeat to the end of the round

R1: k all stitches

For the bottom hem and cuff, is use k1, p1 ribbing.

Twisted knit st for ribbing: insert the needle in the back of the st instead of the front.

 ABBREVIATIONS

  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • Inc – increase (I used the YO method, but you can use any inc method you want)
  • Dec – k2tog: knit 2 stitches together
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • CO – cast on
  • BO – bind off
  • R – rounds
  • ** – repeated section.

TENSION (GAUGE)

Using an 8 mm needle in the pattern used for the sweater

  • 13.5 sts and 21 rounds = 10 cm

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

NOTES

Work the sweater in the round.

After CO, join the ends: slip the 1st st on the left needle, on the right needle. Take the second st on the right needle and slip it over. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.

After finishing the collar, turn in the work. It will be like a German short row turn.

Flip your work, bring the working yarn in front, slip the first st on the left needle and get the string from front to back around the right needle.

The yoke is a rectangle yoke, increasing along four raglan lines. Each raglan line has 1 st, and make the increase before and after that st.

This pattern uses the YO increase. YO before the raglan line and after the raglan line. Use st markers.

Slip the wrap from the left needle to the right needle purlwise to work the YO on the next round. Then, slip the stitch on the right needle and knit or purl, depending on the pattern.

All the increases on the yoke are made only on the knitting round. 

Always the raglan lines sts are knitted.

When adding the armpit sts, wrap yarn on the left needle and k the wrap. Transfer the sleeve sts on a string or cable.

On the k1, p1 rounds, one will end up with a k st before the marker, and the next one will end up with a pst before the st marker.

When working the sleeve, pick up the armpit sts after transfer the sleeve sts on needles: insert the right needle through the st and pull out a loop. Repeat for all armpit sts.

The numbers for M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL are written between brackets.

COLLAR

CO 108 (120, 136, 148, 156, 168, 180, 188)

Join the ends.

R1: *k1, p1. *repeat to the end of the round

R2: k all stitches.

R2 – R52 Rep R1 and R2

*work more rounds if you want a wider collar.

Turn your work. See the Pattern Notes

YOKE

R1: *k1, p1. Rep until the end of the round

R2: K next 35 (39, 43, 47, 49, 53, 57, 59) sts (back), Inc, place an st marker, k next st, place an st marker, inc, k next 17 (19, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33) sts, inc, place an st marker, k next st, place an st marker inc, k next 35 (39, 43, 47, 49, 53, 57, 59) sts (front), Inc, place an st marker, k next st, place an st marker, inc, k next 17 (19, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33) sts, inc, place an st marker, k next st, place an st marker, inc.

R2: *k1, p1 *repeat before next st marker, slip the st marker, k the raglan line, slip the stitch marker. Rep. on all sides.

R3: k all sts to the next st marker, Inc, slip the st marker, k next st, slip the st marker, inc. Repeat on all sides.

Rep. R2 and R3 until having in total for the YOKE 30 (32, 34, 38, 40, 42, 44, 48 ) rounds, or until the bust circumference has desired measurements.

After finishing the YOKE, you will have 137 (151, 169, 185, 195, 209, 223, 235) sts.

TORSO (BODY)

R1: Separate the sleeves

K1, p1 round.

k1, p1 until the next st marker, remove the st marker and work the raglan line st, transfer the sleeve sts to another string or cable, add 5 (5, 5, 5, 9, 9, 9, 9) armpit sts (see the Pattern Notes) skip the sts for the sleeve, work in the same pattern the front side sts, starting with the raglan line st, proceed the same with the second sleeve and finish the round in the same st pattern.

R2: k all sts.

R3: *k1, p1 until the end of the round.

R4 – R59 (59, 63, 63, 65, 65 , 67, 67): Rep R2 and R3

Continue with the Ribbing (see the Ribbing section)

Bind off

SLEEVES

Use a 40 cm cable needle, socks needle, or use the loop method.

Transfer the sts on the needles.

R1: pick up armpit sts (see the Pattern Notes),  place an st marker (this will be the beginning of the round) *k1, p1 to the end of the round.

R2: k all sts.

R3: k1, p1. * rep until the end of the round.

R4 – R55 ( 55, 59, 58, 61, 61, 63, 63): rep R2 and R3

Next row: *k next 3 sts, k2tog. Repeat until the end of the round.

Next round: *k1, p1. *rep until the end of the round.

Next 2 rounds: rep previous 2 rounds.

Add Ribbing

Bind off

RIBBING

Add the ribbing right after finishing the BODY and the SLEEVES.

R1: *k1, p1. *rep until the end of the round.

R2 to R10: rep R1

For the sleeves, if after decrease you don’t have an even number of sts, at the end of R1, purl the last 2 sts together.

Bind off

TO FINISH

Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.

And it’s all done! A video tutorial will be available soon, so stay close in case you need some visual help with this.

 

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:

 

 

 

 

 

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