I am super happy with my Rainy Cloud Jumper because is super comfy, modern and easy to make.
When I decided to make this jumper, was just because I wanted to use some of my old unused yarn. Every time is happening the same: I’m starting a project not having an exactly idea about it and when it’s done I am amazed about the final result.
Pentru Postarea in Limba Romana, click aici
You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download PDF version of this pattern here:
Materials you will need
- Yarn
- Category 3 or 4, light or Medium weight yarn
- Needle
4.5 mm crochet hook (US 7 size)
- You will need a yarn needle for hide in all ends
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Pattern notes
This Rainy Cloud Jumper is over – sized with a positive ease of 11 cm around Bust circumference. IF you want it to have a closer fit, start with less stitches.
This sweater is a top – down sweater. We are working first the cowl and then the yoke. After finishing the yoke we will divide it for body and sleeves.
The working technique is in circular rounds only on the right side of our work.
Chain 3 at the beginning of each round counts as first double crochet.
Start each round between the first V stitch. Slips 1 stitch to get in between the first 2 dc’s and start the round from there. You can also make 1 single crochet between the 2 first dc’s and the ch 2, instead of ch 3.
The pattern is available in 5 sizes, from Small to 2X large and is written in US terms.
All the measurements are in centimeters unless the pattern specified something else.
When is not specified other way, the pattern is applicable for all sizes.
Final measurements
The final measurements are listed in the diagram bellow. The figures are in cm
Neck Line a: 34 cm (36, 40, 43, 47)
Yoke Depth b: 21 cm (24, 28, 28, 32)
Bust Width c: 54 cm (59, 64, 69, 74)
Underarm Length d: 37 cm (37, 39, 39, 40)
Length e: 58 cm (61, 62, 63, 66)
How much yarn do you need?
For this pattern I used We love Yarn from Hobbii, which is 100% acrylic yarn. Each skein has 50 grams and approximate 150 meters.
Photo credit hobbii.com
For each size you will approximate need:
About the stitch pattern
This Rainy Cloud Jumper is worked in V stitch. We will do the V stitch by making 2 double crochet in one single stitch and then skip the next one.
Starting with 2nd round we will make the V stitch in the middle of the V stitches of the previous round.
We will also use sc crochet and twisted single crochet for edging.
Twisted Dc
To make the Twisted Double Crochet, you insert the hook in the next stitch, pull up a loop (keep both loops on hook loose), turn the hook counter clockwise (loops remain on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops.
It can be a little tricky pulling through those loops after the twist, so it’s definitely important to keep both those loops a little bigger than usual before the twist.
Abbreviations used in this pattern
- Ch – chain
- Sc – Single crochet
- Dc – double crochet
- St(s) – stitch(es)
- Inc – increase (2 V st in the same space)
Gauge
5.5 V sts – 10 cm (4”)
8 rows – 10 cm (4”)
You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download PDF version of this pattern here:
Pattern
Cowl
Start with the foundation ch.
- S – 100 sts
- M – 104 sts
- L – 112 sts
- XL – 128 sts
- XXL – 140 sts
Close the ends of the chain with a slip stitch to make a circle.
For all sizes
Round 1
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st, skip the next st, [2 dc (1 V st) in next, skip next st]. Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round. Finish the round with skip last st and join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting chain.
Round 2
Sl st between first 2 dc, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in middle of the previous round V st to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.
Rounds 3 – 20
Repeat round 2. Fasten off.
Yoke
Before starting the yoke turn the cowl on the wrong side. We will keep the cowl on the wrong side, so when is folded to show the right side as the rest of the sweater.
We will start working the yoke from the foundation chain of the cowl.
We will mark the sts in which we will make our corners increases.
We will count the V sts for each section of the yoke: front, back and sleeve.
S – 18 V sts for back and front, 5 V sts for the sleeves
M – 19 V sts for back and front, 5 V sts for the sleeves
L – 21 V sts for back and front, 5 V sts for the sleeves
XL – 23 V sts for back and front, 7 V sts for the sleeves
XXL – 25 V sts for back and front, 8 V sts for the sleeves.
Round 1
The numbers for the sizes M, L, XL and XXL are written between brackets.
We will work the V sts, between the V sts of the first round of the cowl, but the sts will be reversed this time.
Inset the yarn ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in next 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) V sts, 1 Inc in next V st ( 2 V sts meaning 4 dc), 1 V st in next 5 (5, 5, 7, 8) V sts, 1 Inc in next, 1 V st in next 18 (19, 21, 23, 25) V sts, 1 Inc in next, 1 V st in next 5 (5, 5, 7, 8) V sts, 1 Inc in next, 1 V st in last 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) V sts and join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting ch.
Round 2
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in each V st around. We are not increasing on this round.
Before start the 3rd round, mark the first V st of each corner increase.
Round 3
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space,[ 1 V st in each V st until the first st of the next corner, 1 Inc ]. Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round, join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.
Round 4
Repeat round 2 (round without increase)
Round 5
Before starting round 5, mark the second st of the corner and this will be the V st in which you will have to increase on this round.
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space,[ 1 V st in each V st until the 2nd st of the next corner, 1 Inc ]. Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round, join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.
Next, we will repeat rounds 2 to 5 until we will finish the yoke. The idea of the yoke is that we will alternate 1 round with increases one round without and we will make the increase one round in the 1st st of the corner and one round in the 2nd st of the corner.
You will have in total for the yoke:
- S – 12 rounds
- M – 14 rounds
- L – 16 rounds
- XL – 16 Rounds
- XXL – 18 rounds
The last round of the yoke will be a round without increasing.
Body
Before starting working on the actual Body part of the Rainy Cloud Jumper we will have to make first the separating round.
To be easier to see which stitches we are skipping for the sleeves, we will use stitch markers to mark the stitches for back and front.
In each corner you have 2 V stitches. Starting with the beginning of the round, count the stitches until the first stitch of the corner and put the stitch marker. The second stitch marker will be placed in the second stitch of the next corner. The 3rd stitch marker will be placed in the 1st st of the next corner and the last stitch marker will be placed in the second stitch of the last corner.
Now that we have all the stitch markers in place we can start the separating round.
Separating round
Start the round as usual and make 1 V st in each V st until you get to the 1st stitch marker, make 1 V stitch in the marked stitch, then ch 9, skip the sts for the sleeve and make 1 V st in the 2nd marked stitch. Continue with one V st in each V st to the 3rd marked st and make 1 V st here, ch 9, skip the sts for the sleeve and make your next V st in the 4th marked st. Continue with 1 V st in each V st to the end of the round and join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting chain.
Body
Round 1
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in each V st until the underarm ch, [skip 1 st, 1 V st in next] and repeat the section between [ ] until you have 4 V sts in the underarm ch. Continue with 1 V st in each st until you get to the 2nd underarm ch and proceed the same as at the first one. Continue with 1 V st in each V st to the end of the round and join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting chain.
Round 2
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in each V st around. Join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting ch.
Next, repeat round 2, until you will have the desired length of the sweater or until you have in total 33 rounds (for all sizes).
After finishing the body length you will have to add the edging. Go to the Edging section of the pattern!
Sleeves
The sleeves are worked also in rounds. There are no decreases on the sleeves unless you want to do so.
Round 1
Insert the yarn at the armpit, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in each V st around. Join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting chain.
Next, repeat round 1, making 1 V st in each V st around until you have the desired length, or until you have in total:
S – 27 rounds
M – 27 rounds
L – 30 Rounds
XL – 30 rounds
XXL – 31 rounds
After finishing the sleeve length add the edging.
Edging
You can add any edging you will like to finish your Rainy Cloud Jumper.
The edging will be made at the end of the sleeves, hem and collar.
Round 1
On the right side
Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in each st around. Join with a sl st with first sc.
Round 2
Repeat round 1.
Round 3
On the wrong side
Ch 1 and turn, 1 sc in the same st, 1 twisted sc in each st around. Join with a sl st with first sc.
Fasten Off.
To finish, wave in all ends and done!
You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download PDF version of this pattern here:
If you want to see how I made this sweater, you can watch the video here
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