Today we are knitting again 😁!!! This time a mini version of my other knitting design, Left Over Yarn Sweater, the Bubblegum Sweater.

I am calling it a mini version, because the pattern is similar with the bigger version only that this time I used thinner yarn and smaller needles.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

I love making top-down sweaters, doesn’t matter if they are crocheted or knitted. Love how they are taking shape with each round that you make and love that they are seamless and easy to customize.

Top Down sweaters might be intimidating, but the truth is that you have to be careful on just a few things.

Maybe I will make a post about how to design from the beginning a top-down sweater🀨 . Let me know in the comments if this will be interesting for you.

About Design

Bubblegum Sweater is  Top-Down sweater, worked with the Raglan technique. We are starting with the collar, then making the yoke. After finishing the yoke we separate it into sleeves and body and work the 3 parts individual.

Materials you will need

  • Yarn
    • Category 3, DK
  • Needles

4.5 mm circular knitting needles, 40 cm length for the collar

*by the time you increase for the yoke you might want to change the needles with longer ones (80 or 100 cm)

 4 or 5 4.5 mm double pointed needles for sleeves

*you can use same circular needles used for the collar and work the sleeves using the loop method

You can find a useful vide here.

  • yarn needle to hide the ends
  • Scissors
  • 9 stitch markers
  • 5 mm crochet hook to cast off

 

Pattern notes

This Sweater features working in continuous rounds, knit stitch and purl stitch.

It’s a top down sweater, worked with raglan technique. It has an over sized fit wit a 6 cm positive ease round bust circumference. 

It’s worked only on the right side.

The Raglan Seams will have 2 sts and we will increase with 1 st before and after the raglan seam.

After each round with increases we will work one round without increases.

The pattern is available in 5 sizes from 2T up to 10T. For reference my model has almost 4 years old and 100 cm and wears size 4Y. If you are in between sizes and you want a closer fir, make the smaller size. (for example if you want to make the sweater fo a 3 years old child, make size 2T)

Final measurements

This pattern is available in 5 sizes, from 2 Years old up to 10 years old

Final measurements of the Jumper are listed below. Values are in Cm. Numbers for sizes 4,6,8 and 10 years old are written between brackets.

Neck Line a: 14 cm (16, 16, 18, 20)

Yoke Depth b: 18 cm (20, 21, 21,24)

Bust Width c: 29 cm (32, 35, 36, 38)

Underarm Length d: 16 cm (21, 23, 26, 29)

Length e: 35 cm (37, 40, 45, 47)

How much yarn do you need?

I used for this sweater Hobbii Baby Soft in 4 different colors. Each Skeins has 50 grams and approximate 122 meters.

For each size you will approximate need:

*the amount of yarn is approximate 

You will find the color changing pattern below, but you can make with each color as many rounds as you want.

The values below don’t count the collar rows.

  • 2Y – 24 rounds with cream, 20 rounds with the other 3 secondary colors
  • 4Y – 30 rounds with cream, 20 with the other 3
  • 6Y – 36 rounds with cream, 20 rounds with the other 3
  • 8Y – 33 rounds with cream, 25 rounds with the other 3
  • 10Y – 37 rounds with cream, 25 rounds with the other 3

With the last color you will have to work with 8 rounds less then indicated, the other 8 will be worked for the ribbed edge.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

About the stitch pattern.

To make this easy jumper you need to know how to purl and how to knit.

k: Knit

k st  (knit stitch)– With yarn at back, insert point of right-hand needle in front of stitch from left to right on left-hand needle, bring yarn under and over the top of point of right needle, draw loop through stitch and drop this stitch off left needle.

p: Purl

p st (purl stitch) – With yarn at front, insert point of right-hand needle in front of stitch from right to left on left needle, bring yarn over and under the top of point of right needle, draw loop through stitch and drop this stitch off left needle.

We will use the purl stitch only for the ribbed edging.

 

Abbreviations used in this pattern

  • K – knit
  • P – purl
  • Inc – Increase (wrap yarn ones over your left index finger and insert that loop to the right hand needle
  • St(s) – stitch (es)

Gauge

  • 19 k st = 10 cm (4”)
  • 24 k rows = 10 cm (4 β€œ)

Pattern

Cast on:

  • 2Y – 56 sts
  • 4Y – 60 sts
  • 6Y – 60 sts
  • 8Y – 68 sts
  • 10Y – 76 sts

Before making the join make sure the sts are oriented inside the circle and your yarn is on your right needle.

Join

With the right needle take the first stitch from the left needle. Then, pull out the second st from the right needle. Let this st between you needles. This will be the join.

Use a stitch marker and put it on your right needle, to mark the beginning of the round.

Collar

Round 1: k all the sts around.

Rounds 2 – 15 (or as many rounds you want to get to the desired high of the collar): Repeat round 1.

Yoke

Numbers for sizes 4Y, 6Y, 8Y and 10Y are written between brackets.

Round 1

K 8 (9, 9, 10,13), Inc 1, put a st marker on the right hand needle, k 2 sts, use a second st marker, Inc 1, k 8 (8, 9, 9, 8) sts, Inc 1, put a st marker, k 2, put a st marker, Inc 1, K 16 (18, 18, 21, 26) sts, Inc 1, put a st marker, k 2 sts, put a st marker, Inc 1, k 8 (8, 9, 9, 8) sts, Inc 1, put a st marker, k 2, put a st marker, Inc 1, k last 8 (9, 9, 11,13),

Round 2

k all sts

Round 3

k all sts, to the next st marker, 1 Inc, k 2 sts, 1 inc (Inc right is made before the st marker, inc left is made after st marker). Repeat to the end of the round.

Next, repeat rounds 2 and 3, alternating one round with increases one without until you have in total for the yoke:

  • 2Y – 36 rounds
  • 4Y – 40 rounds
  • 6Y – 42 rounds
  • 8Y – 43 rounds
  • 10Y – 48 rounds

Now that the yoke is done, we will continue with the body, but first we have to separate the sleeves.

Separating round

*for all sizes

K the sts to the first st marker, remove the st marker and k the first st of the raglan line. Next, you will have to transfer the sts for the sleeve. Use a tapestry needle and a strand of yarn to do this. First st for the sleeve will be the second st of the first raglan line and the last one will be the first st of the next raglan line. After you have all the sts for the sleeve on the yarn, make a knot to secure all sts.

Next we will continue with the body sts. Skip the sts for the sleeve and knit the next available st. Continue to k all sts to the second sleeve and proceed the same as with the first one. K all remained sts to the end of the round.

 

Body

Round 1

K all sts.

Repeat round 1 until you have the desired length of the sweater or until you have in total:

  • 2Y – 40 rounds
  • 4Y – 42 rounds
  • 6Y – 46 rounds
  • 8Y – 56 rounds
  • 10Y – 56 rounds

Edging

To finish the body length, we will work the last 8 rounds, making a ribbed edging.

Round 1

K 1, p1 – repeat to the end of the round

Rounds 2 – 8

Repeat round 1.

Cast off

Use a 4.5 mm crochet hook as your right needle.

k first st, you have now 1 loop on your hook.

P next st, and pull the loop through the first loop on your hook. K next st and pull the loop through the first loop on your hook. Repeat with all sts. Always you have to have only one loop on your hook. At the end of the round insert the hook in the first st and make a slip st. Chain 1 and cut the yarn.

Sleeves

Transfer the sleeve’s sts on 3 of 4 double pointed needles. Divide the number of sts evenly. If you don’t have you can use circular needles but you will have to work the sleeves using the magic loop method. You can find a useful vide here.

Next, make a similar join as you did when starting the jumper. Use a st marker to mark the start of the round.

When working with double pointed needles you will have to work all the sts on each of the 3 needles.

Round 1

K all sts.

Repeat round 1 until you have:

  • 2Y – 35 rounds
  • 4Y – 37 rounds
  • 6Y – 41 rounds
  • 8Y – 51 rounds
  • 10Y – 51 rounds

Round 36 (38, 42, 52, 52)

[1 dec (k 2 sts together), k next 3 sts] repeat to the end of the round.

Rounds 37 – 39 (39 – 41, 43 – 45, 53 – 55. 53 – 55)

K all sts.

Round 40 ( 42, 46, 56, 56)

1 dec, k next 2 sts. Repeat to the end of the round.

Next, add the last 8 rounds following the same pattern as for the body edging.

Cast off using the same method as for the body.

To finish

Wave in all ends and block to measurements

And the Bubblegum Sweater is done!

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

You can find a full video tutorial by below:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Author

2 Comments

  1. Ann Wilkerson Reply

    I love top down sweaters and cardigans. It would be wonderful if you could teach us how to design them, both knit and crochet. The principles and ‘rules’ regarding these designs as opposed to making a garment in a particular yarn, but rather the ‘how to’. I’m extremely fond of fine yarns, (lace and fingering especially, but also sport and dk weights, possibly worsted in a knit garment) but absolutely not the thicker yarns – not flattering on anyone! – and yet there are so many patterns designed for those yarns simply because they work up much more quickly. I prefer to take my time with something that is actually wearable. Thank you for all you do. You have designed and created some very lovely items.

    • Bykaterina Reply

      Thank you so much for your kind words. I have in plan of doing this, with round yoke and 4 corners yoke. I love when people try to learn how to design their own things.

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