Nuage Cardigan. Crochet Pattern
After the Winter Holidays, I needed a quick project for a new yarn I got from my friends at Katia
Nuage Sweater was perfect, but I already made two of them so I thought that it will be better if I will make a cardigan.
So cardigan it was. I followed the same pattern as for the sweater, only that on the wrong side rows I needed to work back post double crochet stitches.
I didn’t think at first, to write a separate pattern for the cardigan version, but because so many of you requested it, here I am sharing with you how I made the Nuage Cardigan
This post contains affiliate links. By purchasing from this page I may receive some commissions. This won’t cost you anything, no additional costs for you as the commission is paid by the merchant.
In this way you support me and I will be extremely grateful.
You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
I posted a lot these two sweaters on my social media accounts and I know you are so anxious about the pattern, so I won’t say too much about it and get into action. 🙂
MATERIALS
• Yarn: Yarn: aran (heavy worsted) yarn weight (Size 4)
• Crochet Hook:
o 10 mm crochet hook
o 6 mm crochet hook (for the bottom, neckline and sleeves edging)
• yarn needle for weave in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
The cardigan is worked flat, except the sleeves that are worked in the round. Along the yoke section, there are several increases accordingly with the needed yoke depth, bust, and sleeves circumference.
The yoke is then divided into sleeves and body. The 3 parts are then worked individually until completing the desired length.
To finish the cardigan work an edge around the neckline, front panels, and bottom hem using single crochet stitches.
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Nuage Cardigan Pattern is available in 8 sizes, from Small up to 5X Large.
The model is 168 cm tall and wears size Small.
Neckline a: 21 cm (23, 23, 25, 25, 25, 26, 25 )
Yoke depth b: 20 cm (21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28, 29)
Bust width c: 54 cm (59, 64, 69, 74, 78, 83, 89)
Sleeve circ. d: 31 cm (33, 35, 40, 44, 46, 51, 55)
Sleeve Length e: 34 cm (34, 36, 36, 37, 37, 38, 38)
Length f: 43 cm (43, 45, 47, 49, 52, 53, 54)
How much yarn do you need?
I used Boomer by Katia Yarns. Each ball has 200 grams and approximately 320 meters.
For each size you will need:
960 m (1050, 1200, 1350, 1500, 1680, 1820, 1990) meters or
3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7) balls of Boomer by Katia.
You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
FPdc – front post double crochet
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rows
** – repeated section.
TENSION
Using a 10 mm crochet hook in front post double crochet
9.5 sts = 10 cm
7 rows = 10cm
STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES
The main stitch pattern for the Nuage Sweater is Front Post Double Crochet.
Front Post Double crochet (FPdc): yarn over and insert the hook into the space between the previous and next stitch, from front to back, and go around the next stitch. Yarn over and pull out a loop. Yarn over and pass it through the first two loops on your hook, yarn over and pass it through the last two loops on your hook.
Back Post Double crochet (FPdc): yarn over and insert the hook into the space between the previous and next stitch, from back to front and go around the next stitch. Yarn over and pull out a loop. Yarn over and pass it through the first two loops on your hook, yarn over and pass it through the last two loops on your hook.
When making an increase, work 2 front/back post double crochet around the same stitch.
PATTERN NOTES
Work the piece flat, turn after each row
Work the sleeves in the round only on the right side and only in Front Post Double Crochet
To make an invisible join in the round, start the round without a starting chain, simply work the first front post double crochet.
To close the round, pull out the hook from the working loop; insert the hook from back to front, into the first front post double crochet; take the working loop and pass it through the first front post double crochet.
Work 3ch at the beginning of each row. 3ch counts as first st.
At the end of this document, you will find the charts for the YOKE section for all sizes
The chart represents one repeated section; repeat this section as many times as indicated in the chart
follow the chart from right to left for the right side rows and from left to right for the wrong side rows
You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
INSTRUCTIONS
The pattern for the yoke is written for sizes S, M, and L and separately for sizes XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL.
Numbers for sizes M, L, and then 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL are written between brackets; if not the pattern applies for all sizes.
YOKE
Sizes S, M, and L
Start: Ch 40 (44, 44) sts;
R1: 3ch, 1dc in each st until the end of the round.
R2: *1FPdc in next 3 sts, 2FPdc in the next st. *rep. 10 (11, 11) times.
total: 50 (55, 55) sts
R3: 1BPdc in each stitch until the end of the row.
total: 50 (55, 55) sts
R4:2FPdc in next st, 1FPdc in next 4sts.
*rep. 10 (11, 11) times.
Total: 60 (66, 66) sts
You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
R5:2BPdc in next st, 1BPdc in next 5sts, *rep. 10 (11, 11) times.
Total: 70 (77, 77) sts
R6: 2FPdc in next st, 1FPdc in next 6sts
*rep. 10 (11, 11) times.
Total: 80 (88, 88) sts
R7: 2BPdc in next st, 1BPdc in next 7sts, .
*rep. 10 (11, 11) times.
Total: 90 (99, 99) sts
R8:2FPdc in the next st, 1FPdc in next 8sts.
*rep. 10 (11, 11) times.
Total:100 (110, 110)
R9:1 BPdc in each st until the end of the round.
Total:100 (110, 110)
R10: 1FPdc in next 9sts, 2FPdc in next st.
*rep. 10 (11, 11) times.
Total: 110 (121, 121)
R11: 1BPdc in each st until the end of the round.
Total: 110 (121, 121)
R12: 2FPdc in next st, 1FPdc in next 10sts.
*rep. 10 (11, 11) times.
Total: 120 (132, 132) sts
R13: 2BPdc in next st, 1Bpdc in next 11sts, .
*rep. 10 (11, 11) times.
Total: 130 (143, 143)
R14: 2FPdc in next st, 1FPdc in next 12sts
*rep. 10 (11, 11) times.
Total: 140 (154, 154)
For size Small, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
R15: Size M only: 1BPdc in each st until the end of the row.
Total: 154sts
For size Medium the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
R15 Size L: 2BPdc in next st, 1BPdc in next 13sts
Rep. 11 times
Total: 165sts
R16 Size L: 1FPdc in each st until the end of the round.
Total: 165sts
For size Large, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
YOKE
SIZES XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL
Start: Ch 48 (48, 50, 50, 50)
R1: 2ch, 1dc in each st until the end of the round.
R2: 1FPdc in next 5 (5, 4, 4, 4) sts, 2FPdc in next st.
Rep. 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) times
Total: 56 (56, 60, 60, 60) sts
R3:1BPdc in next 6 (6, 5, 5, 5) sts
2BPdc in next st, Rep. 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) times
Total: 64 (64, 70, 70, 70) sts
R4: 1FPdc in next 7 (7, 6, 6, 6) sts, 2FPdc in next st.
Rep. 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) times
Total: 72 (72, 80, 80, 80) sts
R5:1BPdc in next 8 (8, 7,7,7) sts, 2BPdc in next st,
Total: 80 (80, 90, 90, 90) sts
R6: 1FPdc in next 9 (9, 8, 8, 8) sts, 2FPdc in next st.
Rep. 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) times
Total: 88 (88, 100, 100, 100) sts
R7 Sizes XL, XXL: 1BPdc in next 10sts, 2BPdc in next st,
Rep. 8 times
Total: 96 (96) sts
R7 Sizes 3XL, 4XL and 5XL: 1BPdc in each st until the end of the round.
Total: 100 (100, 100)
R8:Sizes XL, XXL: 1FPdc in next 11sts, 2FPdc in next st.
Rep. 8 times
Total: 104 (104)sts
R8 Sizes 3XL, 4XL and 5XL: 2FPdc in next st, 1 FPdc in next 9 sts.
Rep. 10 times
Total: 110 (110, 110) sts
R9 Sizes XL, XXL: 1BPdc in next 12 sts, 2BPdc in next st, .
Rep. 8 times
Total: 112 (112) sts
R9 Sizes 3XL, 4XL and 5XL: 2BPdc in next st, 1 BPdc in next 10sts, Rep. 10 times
Total: 120 (120, 120) sts
R10 Size XL, XXL:1FPdc in next 13sts, 2FPdc in next st.
Rep. 8 times
Total: 120 (120)
R10 Size XL, XXL:1FPdc in next 13sts, 2FPdc in next st.
Rep. 8 times
Total: 120 (120)
R10 Sizes 3XL, 4XL and 5XL: 2FPdc in next st, 1FPdc in next 11sts
Rep. 10 times
Total: 130 (130, 130)
R11 Sizes XL, XXL: 1BPdc in next 14sts, 2BPdc in next st, 1.
Rep. 8 times
Total: 128 (128) sts
R11 Sizes 3XL, 4XL and 5XL: 2BPdc in next st, 1BPdc in next 12sts, .
Rep. 10 times
Total: 140 (140, 140)
R12 Sizes XL, XXL: 1FPdc in next 15sts, 2FPdc in next st.
Rep. 8 times
Total: 136 (136)
R12 Sizes 3XL, 4XL and 5XL: 2FPdc in next st, 1FPdc in next 13sts
Rep. 10 times
Total: 150 (150, 150)
R13 Sizes XL, XXL: 1BPdc in next 16sts
2BPdc in next st, Rep. 8 times
Total: 144 (144)
R13 Sizes 3XL, 4XL: 1BPdc in each st until the end of the round
Total: 150 sts
R13 Size 5XL: 2BPdc in next st, 1BPdc in next 14sts, Rep. 10 times
Total: 160 sts
R14 sizes XL, XXL: 1Fpdc in next 17sts, 2FPdc in next st
Rep. 8 times
Total: 152 (152) sts
R14: Sizes 3XL, 4XL: 1FPdc in next 14sts, 2FPdc in next st.
Rep. 10 times
Total: 160 sts
R14 Size 5XL: 2FPdc in next st, 1FPdc in next 15sts
Rep. 10 times
Total: 170 sts
R15:Sizes XL, XXL: 1BPdc in next 18sts, 2BPdc in next st, Rep. 8 times
Total: 160 (160) sts
R15 Sizes 3XL, 4XL: 1BPdc in next 15sts, 2BPdc in next st
Rep. 10 times
Total: 170 sts
R15 Size 5XL: 2BPdc in next st, 1BPdc in next 16sts
Rep. 10 times
Total: 180 sts
R16 Sizes XL, XXL: 1FPdc in next 19sts
2FPdc in next st
Rep. 8 times
Total: 160 (168) sts
R16 Sizes 3XL, 4XL: 1FPdc in next 16sts, 2FPdc in next st.
Rep. 10 times.
Total: 180
R16 Size 5XL: 2FPdc in next st, 1FPdc in next 17 sts
Rep. 10 times
Total: 190 sts
R17 Sizes XL, XXL: 1BPdc in next 20sts,
2BPdc in next st, Rep. 8 times
Total: 176 sts
For size X Large the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
R17 Sizes 3XL, 4XL: 1BPdc in next 17 sts, 2BPdc in next st,
Rep. 10 times
Total: 190 sts
R17 Size 5XL: 2BPdc in next st, 1BPdc in next 18sts, Rep. 10 times
Total: 200 sts
R18 Size XXL: 1FPdc in next 21 sts, 2FPdc in next st.
Rep. 8 times
Total: 184 sts
For size XXL the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
R18 Sizes 3XL, 4XL: 1FPdc in next 18 sts, 2FPdc in next st.
Rep. 10 times
Total: 200 sts
For size 3XL the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
R18 Size 5XL: 2FPdc in next st, 1FPdc in next 19sts
Rep. 10 times
Total: 210 sts
R19 Size 4XL: 1BPdc in next 19 sts, 2BPdc in next st, Rep. 10 times
Total: 210 sts
R19 Size 5XL: 2BPdc in next st, 1Bpdc in next 20 sts, Rep 10 times
Total: 220 sts
R20 Size 4XL: 1FPdc in each st until the end of the round
Total: 210 sts
R20 Size 5XL: 2FPdc in next st, 1FPdc in next 21 sts
Rep. 10 times
Total: 230 sts.
Now the YOKE is done for sizes 4XL and 5XL. Move to the BODY section.
BODY
Before moving into the BODY section, let’s summarize the number of stitches for the YOKE
S – 140 sts
M – 154 sts
L – 165 sts
XL – 176 sts
XXL – 184 sts
3XL – 200 sts
4XL – 210 sts
5XL – 230 sts
For the next step use st markers to mark the sleeves and body sts.
S – 48 sts for Back, 23 sts for each front panel, 23 sts for each sleeve
M – 52 sts for Back, 27 sts for front panels, 25 sts for sleeves
L – 57 sts Back, 28 sts for front panels, and 26 sts sleeves
XL – 60 sts for Back, 29 sts for front panels, 29 sts for sleeves
XXL – 62 sts for Back, 30 sts for front panels, 31 sts for sleeves
3XL – 66 sts for Back, 33 sts fo front panels, 34 sts for sleeves
4XL – 70 sts for Back, 35 sts fo front panels, 35 sts for sleeves
5XL – 76 sts for Back, 37 sts for front panels, 40 sts for sleeves
You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
R1:SEPARATING ROW:
For sizes Medium and X Large the separating row will be on the right side. For the other sizes on the wrong side.
st = FPdc or BPdc
1st in next 23 (27, 28, 29, 30, 33, 35, 37) sts, ch 4 (4, 4, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10) sts, skip next 23 (25, 26, 29, 31, 34, 35, 40) sts, 1st in next 48 (52, 57, 60, 62, 66, 70, 76) sts, ch 4 (4, 4, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10) sts, skip next 23 (25, 26, 29, 31, 34, 35, 40) sts, 1st in next 23 (27, 28, 29, 30, 33, 35, 37) sts
R2: 1FPdc/1BPdc in each st, except the armpit sts, 1dc into the armpit sts.
R3: 1FPdc/1BPdc in each stitch until the end of the row.
Rep. working 1row in FPdc (right side) 1 row in BPdc (wrong side) until you have 20 rows for the body or until you reach the desired length.
SLEEVES
Rejoin yarn at the armpit.
To avoid holes between armpit sts and sleeve sts, work 2FPdc together.
R1: 1Fpdc in each st around.
Repeat R1 until you have in total 23 rounds or until you reach the desired length.
Next row: Change the hook to a 6.mm size
1ch, 1sc in each st around
Last row: 1ch, 1slip stitch into each st around.
Fasten off.
EDGING
Using the same 10 mm crochet hook, start into the middle st at the neck.
Work in the round.
When working into the edge of the front panels, work 2sc into 1 side row, 3sc into the next. Or adjust the number of sts according to your tension
Into the corners work 3sts (top and bottom front panels)
R1: 1sc in each st around (considering the notes above for corners and front panels side edge). SS into the first sc
R2: rep R1.
R3: switch to a 6mm crochet hook and rep. R1
After working the first round into the side rows of the front panels, will leave holes, between the edge. You can hide those holes by working surface slip sts.
TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.
I hope you will like this cardigan as much as I do!
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)
3 Comments
Kelly
Why is the printing so small?? I would love to make this sweater but can’t read it!
Bykaterina
Hi! I don’t know what printing do you mean? The PDf shouldn’t have the font that small! Please send me an e-mail at contact@by-katerina.com with a screenshot of your printing to see what is wrong.
Lovely
Love this cardigan and the colors are fun!
xoxo
Lovely
http://www.mynameislovely.com