Basic T-shirt in Crochet
The Summer is almost gone, so I grabbed my hook and I made this Basic T-shirt in Crochet to have it on the days left.
Pentru postarea in limba romana, click aici

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.
Last week I was renovated my bathroom, so I didn’t had time to post anything. But here I am with a new summer project that I hope you will enjoy.
Is a simple yoke T-shirt, worked from top to bottom. Is easy to make and you will find here all the info that you will need to make it.
I designed this pattern for sizes from S to 2X, but you can adjusted as you want or need.
Now let’s talk about materials you will need:
I used Scheepjes Whirl in color Dark Grape Squish and a 3.5 mm ( E size ) crochet hook. You will have to work looser. 1 whirl will be enough for any size, but if you want to make changes, as make the Basic T-shirt in Crochet longer or with longer sleeves, for bigger sizes, 1X and 2X you will need some additional yarn.
If you want to use another yarn use a similar weight as baby or sport or even fingering.
You will also need 4 stitch markers and scissors.

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.
If you choose to use another yarn here is the approximate amount of yarn that you will need:
- S – 150 grams / 680 m / 740 yds
- M – 160 grams / 730 m/ 790 yds
- L – 170 grams / 780 m/ 850 yds
- 1X – 190 grams / 830 m / 910 yds
- 2X – 200 grams / 890 m / 970 yds
The final measurements of the Basic T-shirt in Crochet are in the next sketch

Gauge
18 dc = 10 cm (4″)
10 rounds = 10 cm (4″)
Abbreviations used in this pattern:
- Ch – chain
- Dc – double crochet
- St(s) – stitch (es)
- Sl st – slip stitch
- Inc – increase ( 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc)
- Dec – decrease ( dc2tog – 2 dc work together as a cluster)
Ok, now with all these things in mind, let’s begin:
We will work in rounds from top to bottom. Start with the foundation chain:
- S – 136
- M – 146
- L – 156
- XL – 164
- XXL – 172
After finishing the foundation sl st to finish the round.
Round 1
Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a first dc), 1 dc in next 31 (34, 36, 38, 40) sts, 1 inc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 30 (32, 35, 37,39) sts, 1 inc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 36 ( 39, 41, 43, 45) sts, 1 inc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 30 (32, 35, 37,39), 1 inc, 1 dc in the last 5 sts. Sl st.
In each 4 ch 1 spaces of the increases put a stitch marker.
Round 2
Ch 2, 1 dc in each dc until you get to the next ch 1 space. Here you will do the inc. Continue until the end of the round.
Repeat round 2 until you have in total:
- S – 12 rounds
- M – 14 rounds
- L – 15 rounds
- XL – 18 rounds
- XXL – 21 rounds
After completing these rounds, the yoke is done and is time to separate the sleeves from the body of the Basic T-shirt in Crochet.
Start the next round as usual. Make 1 dc in each st until you get to the first corner. In the ch 1 space make 1 dc. Then, to join with the front side make a chain of:
- S – 14 sts
- M – 18 sts
- L – 20 sts
- XL – 24 sts
- XXL – 26 sts
Skip the sts for the sleeve and in the second corner make 1 dc. Continue with 1 dc in each st, until the next corner.
Here we will proceed the same as we did in the other side. Finish the round.
Now that we separate the body of the t-shirt from the sleeves we can work the parts individual.
Using a color changing yarn I worked 3 rows on each part just to make sure that the colors will be the same.
I did this only until I finished the sleeves.

On the body I made a few increases. At every 3 rows 1 single increase / row ( 2 dc in the same st).
First inc I made it in the 10th st, the next one, after another 3 rounds, in the 20th st and so on until the end of the body. I made in total 33 rounds and you will have to do 33 rounds for every size.
The length will be adjusted from the yoke. If you want a longer t-shirt you can do more rounds.
Ok, now let’s see how we will work the sleeves.
We will start from the middle of the ch that we made when we joined the back and front side.
We will work in rounds making 1 dc in each st. At every 3 rounds we will make 1 decrease at the beginning and at the end of the round.
We will do in total:
- S, M – 12 rounds
- L, XL, XXL – 15 rounds
After finishing the Basic T-shirt in Crochet we will add a border on the neck line, bottom line and on the sleeves.
On the sleeves fold 3 rounds and secure the fold by sewing at the armpit.
Because we will fold the edges of the sleeves, work the border on the wrong side.
For the border I used the last color in my whirl, but if you work with a solid color you may choose for the border a contrasting one.
And the Basic T-shirt in Crochet is done.

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.
What do you think? Looks nice isn’t it?
So, you’ll have to give it a try.
Bellow you will also find the video tutorial.
Enjoy Crochet ! ???
https://ro.pinterest.com/katerina6795/free-crochet-patterns/

![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)


3 Comments
Fiona
love this patter~
but round 1 seems to be missing 1 inc (1 corner)?
Bykaterina
thank you for notice me. I updated the pattern.
sharon borden
Can’t wait to get started, thank you for the free pattern!