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Pattern review and update 19-02-2020

I don’t have to many scarfs or shawls designs, but I decided to give to this Jeanie Triangle Scarf a refresh, because it has a beautiful stitch pattern and because is that kind of accessory  that you are making to be worn for good.

Imagine that I made this Jeanie Triangle scarf, almost 2 years ago, and all the photos in this post update are made recently. This scarf was worn and washed so many times in this 2 years and I am really happy that it’s still gorgeous and it’s looking like it was finished yesterday.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

If you already purchased this pattern, please send me an e-mail at contact@by-katerina.com and I will send you the new version.

I have to mention that the main pattern of this Jeanie Triangle Scarf is the same. I only added a few more information about supplies, measurements, gauge which I didn’t mentioned in previous version.

I learned so many thinks in these 2 years, about how important is to know how to promote and put in value the things you’ve made. Back then I did’t paid to much attention on how I was taking photos with my makes and didn’t realized  that this is one of the most important thing in this job.

It doesn’t matter that you make amazing staff, if you don’t know how to show them to  people.

Because this is a great pattern and a great scarf that deserves to be made in many others versions of colors, I decided to bring it back to life with this pattern update.

Even I, started to make another one, using some amazing yarn that I had in my stash for so long.

This yarn is from Lana Grossa, Goia, and I love the colors.

Anyways, I hope you are happy with this pattern update and you will want to make this Jeanie Triangle Scarf. Can’t wait to see all your versions. Happy Hooking!!!

But let’s see what is all about:

Materials you will need

  • Yarn
    • Category 2, Fingering weigh Yarn
  • Crochet hook
    • 4 mm crochet hook (US G size)
  • You will hide the ends
  • Scissors
  • Stitch marker (optional)

Pattern notes

The Jeanie Triangle Scarf is an easy to make accessory. To obtain the triangle shape we will increase at the beginning, in middle and at the end of the row.

Chain 3 at the beginning of the row, counts as first double crochet.

Ch 1, at the beginning of a single crochet row, doesn’t count as first single crochet.

The pattern is one size and you can make a bigger or smaller scarf just by working more or less rows.

 

Final measurements

Final measurements of the scarf are listed below:

How much yarn do you need?

For this pattern I used 1 skein of Katia Saigon in color Jeans and 1 skein of Go Homemade Tencel Bamboo in color Walnut from Hobbii.

You can use any type of yarn you want for this pattern, even a different weight. Just follow the pattern and when you get to the desired measurements of the scarf, you are done.

 

About the stitch pattern.

We are using for this Jeanie Triangle Scarf the stitch pattern known as “crosses and zeros”.

This pattern is 3 rows repeat: 1 row in window stitch, 1 row in double crochet cross stitches and 1 in single crochet.

Windows Stitch Pattern: 1 double crochet, chain 1, skip 1

Cross stitch Pattern: In this pattern the double crochet cross stitches pattern is made always after a window row.

1 dc in next window, 1 dc in previous window. In each window (ch 1 space of the previous window row) you will have 2 dc’s.

Below you can find the stitch pattern chart:

Abbreviations used in this pattern

  • Ch – chain
  • Sc – single crochet
  • Dc – double crochet
  • St(s) – stitch(es)

 

Gauge

After 2 patterns repeats, 7 rows, the triangle measures 18 cm width and 9 cm length.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

If you already purchased this pattern, please send me an e-mail at contact@by-katerina.com and I will send you the new version.

Pattern

R1: Ch 6, sl st to make a circle, ch 1, 7 sc inside circle. Ch 3 and turn

R2: 1 dc in the first st ( the same st with ch 3), ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 dc in the next st, [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in the next st – the center point of our triangle, 1 dc in the next, ch 1, skip 1, 2 dc in the last st. Ch 3 and turn.

 R3: 1 dc in the first st, skip the next dc, 1 dc in the next ch 1 space, 1 dc in the skipped dc, 1 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the previous ch 1 space, skip next dc, 1 dc in the next (the last before center point), 1 dc in the skipped dc, [2 dc, ch 2, 2dc] in the ch 2 space of the center point.

Skip next dc (the first after center point), 1 dc in the next, 1 dc in the skipped dc, skip the next dc, 1 dc in the next ch 1 space, 1 dc in the skipped dc, 1 dc in the next dc, 1 dc in the previous ch 1 space, 2 dc in the 3rd st of the turning ch. Ch 1 and turn.

R4: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each st to the center point, [2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc] in the ch 2 space of the center point, 1 sc in each st to the end of the row, ending with 2 sc in the 3rd st of the turning chain.

R5: 1 dc in the first st, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in the next st] repeat until the center point. [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in ch 2 space, [1 dc, ch 1, skip 1] repeat section to the end of the row, ending with 2 dc in the 3rd st of the turning chain. Ch 3 and turn

R6: 1 dc in the first st, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in the next ch 1 space, 1 dc in the skipped dc.

[1 dc in the next ch 1 space, 1 dc in the previous ch 1 space] repeat this section until you have 3 dc to the center point.

Then continue with 1 dc in the next dc, 1 dc in the previous ch 1 space, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next, 1 dc in the skipped dc. Continue with center point [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in the ch 2 space of the center point.

Skip next dc, 1 dc in next, 1 dc in the skipped dc, skip next dc, 1 dc in the next ch 1 space, 1 dc in the skipped dc, [1 dc in the next ch 1 space, 1 dc in the previous 1 ch space] repeat this section until you have 1 dc left. Continue with 1 dc in the last dc, 1 dc in the previous ch 1 space. Finish the row with 2 dc in the 3rd stitch of the turning ch.

Next, repeat rows 4 to 6 until you have in total 43 rows, or until you get to the desired width and length of the scarf.

Edging

From where your yarn is, continue on the width of the scarf to make a single crochet edge. When working into the side rows, make 2 sc in each dc row (crosses or windows) and 1 sc in each sc side row. Continue with 1 sc in each st to the center point. In the center point make the same increase as you did on each single crochet row and then continue with 1 sc in each st until you get to the end of the round.

Fringe

Cut 4 strands of yarn of about 20 cm, fold them in half, insert the loop through ch 2 space of the center point, pull the ends through the loop and tie. Repeat and add fringe at every 5 sts until you complete the entire edge of the scarf.

To finish

Wave in all ends and block to measurements.

Below you can find also a video tutorial.

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

If you already purchased this pattern, please send me an e-mail at contact@by-katerina.com and I will send you the new version.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Since I needed a little break from my bigger projects, I came up with this beautiful Jar Candle Holder Pattern.

I have to be honest that I didn’t expect that will be something that I will post on the blog, but they are so beautiful and easyn that I’m sure some of you would love to try.

Jar Candle Holder

You can purchase the easy printable add-free pdf pattern from here

What is amaizing is that you can use it for a lot of things: as a candle holder ( this was what I had in mind when I started doing them), as a vase for your favorite flowers, in the bathroom for make up tools and so on.

Plus, I think is a great gift, if you want to surprise someone you love.

And even more, is just a couple of hours project, so why not to try it.

Ok, now about the pattern.

I am assuming that it will be difficult for you to find a jar with the same dimensions as the ones that I used, so I will give you the pattern for the jars that I used, but also some tips on how to do this Jar Candle Holder no matter what kind of jar you use, what yarn on hook size.

But first, let’s see what do you need:

  • a jar
  • Yarn
  • Appropriate hook size
  • 1 stitch marker
  • a ribbon or something to tie the crocheted cover on the top
  • other accessories if you want

Jar Candle Holder

 

Now, I made these Jar Candle Holder in 2 sizes using different yarn. The good part was, that the pattern worked for both.

I think that is important that the top of the jar to be smaller then the bottom.

The bigger jar has 30 cm (12 “) circumference and 14 cm (5.5”) high.

For this one I used a thicker mercerized cotton thread (the same one that I used for the Summer Crocheted vest) and a 2.5 mm (4/0) hook.

The smaller jar has 24 cm (9.5″) circumference and 11 cm (4.5″).

For this one I used Scheepjes Maxi Thread, which is also mercerized cotton, but much thinner, so the hook size was 1.75 mm (0).

You can use any yarn you want. I recommend to use thread or super fine weight yarn ( everything that is between 1 ply and 3 ply), but you can try with another type of yarn too.

Gauge

I don’t know if this will help since you may not have the same jar size, but after 14 rounds in single crochet my circle had almost 30 cm (12″) circumference ( worked with the thicker yarn) and 24 cm (9.5″) working with the thinner yarn.

Jar Candle Holder

 

 

 

Abbreviations used in this pattern

Ch – chain

St (s) – stitch (es)

Sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

Sl st – slip stitch

inc – increase (2 sc in the same stitch)

Now we can start to make this beautiful Jar Candle Holder.

We will work in rounds. If you want for the bottom you can work in continuos rounds.

Round 1

Make a magic circle, ch 1 and 6 sc inside the circle. Sl st to join.

Round 2

1 inc (2 sc) in each stitch (12 sts). Sl st to join.

Round 3

[1 inc, 1 sc] repeat 6 times (18 sts) sl st to join

Round 4

[1 inc, 1 sc in the next 2 st] repeat 6 times (24 sts). Sl st to join.

Round 5

[1 inc, 1 sc in next 3 sts] repeat 6 times (30 sts). sl st to join.

And you will have to continue adding with each round 1 sc between increases until you get to the desired circumference.

To be more easy for every one, no matter what jar or yarn you use, just put the jar over the circle and when the edge of your circle is a little bigger then the jar bottom then you have the right size.

Jar Candle Holder

Don’t worry if the circle is a little bigger, at the end when you will tie the crochet cover, it will stretch out and will fit just perfect.

I made 14 rounds in total to get the size of my jar.

After getting to the right size we will stop increasing and working just in rounds.

Now, depending on your jar’s size you can adjust this pattern to have the desired look at the end.

I just measured the high of the jar, before the top starts to be smaller and I approximate the numbers of rounds that I will make. I wanted the mesh middle part to be bigger then the parts in single crochet.

So, I started with rounds in single crochet and I made 1 sc in each stitch, for 8 rounds. After stretching the work to fit the jar’s high this part measured almost 3 cm (1″)

Jar Candle Holder

After these rounds I started the mesh stitch.

Round 1

Start the round with ch 1 and 1 sc in the same st. [Ch 5, skip 3 sts, 1 sc in the next] repeat this section to the end of the round. Finish the round with ch 5 and sl st with the 1st sc.

Round 2

2 sl st, 1 sc in the 3rd st. [Ch 5, 1 sc in the 3rd st of the next 5 sts chain] repeat this section to the end of the round, ending with ch 5 and sl st with the 1st sc.

Now repeat this round as meny times as you want until you have the desired length with this stitch.

Have in mind that at the end you will have to stretch the work to fit the jar, so when you are trying your work on the jar make sure tu pull and stretch it.

Jar Candle Holder

 

I made 5 rounds with this stitch and the 6th round I made it to make the top edge straight and instead of ch 5, I chained 3.

The mash part was measuring after stretching 5.5 mm (2″).

After this round I started again with sc and made 4 rounds. (1.5 cm, 1″).

Next round

Ch 4, skip 1 st, 1 dc in next, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in next] and repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round.

We made this round to have some holes to insert the ribbon and tie the crocheted cover of the Jar Candle Holder.

The final round or rounds if you want to make more then one round, we will do a shell st, just to add a beautiful edge to our piece.

Start the round with 1 sc in the 1st ch 1 space, [ in the next one make 1 shell (7 dc in the same ch 1 space),  skip the next space and 1 sc in the next one].

Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round.

Jar Candle Holder

Now all you have to do is to insert a ribbon trough the filet stitch round’s holes and tie. Stretch the work, pulling up until you notice that the cover fits well the jar.

And done. You now have a beautiful piece to put somwhere in your home.

I hope you love this Jar Candle Holder as I do and make one.

Jar Candle Holder

Scroll down a little bit more and download the pdf pattern. Only today you can have the pdf for free.

Enjoy crochet!

You can purchase the easy printable add-free pdf pattern from here

Jar Candle Holder. Free Pattern and tutorial

The Pumpkin Sweater had to be posted last week, but I was super busy trying to finish some other projects that I had, that I didn’t have time to write.

But here it is:  an easy and super fun pattern.

I enjoyed making it and I hope you will try it.

Pentru postarea in limba romana, click aici

The Pumpkin Sweater Free Pattern and video tutorial

You can purchase the easy printable add-free pdf pattern from here

The idea of this Pumpkin Sweater came after I bought this beautiful Merino wool yarn which came in 4 skeins of 50 grams each (160 m) with a beautiful degrade. The Yarn is from hobbii.com and is called Mayflowers Merino the collection.

picture from hobbii.com

You can find there some beautiful colors.

This particular yarn is light and according with the weight is a fingering 4 ply yarn, but according with the thickness, I would say that is closer to a DK, worsted yarn.

So,  a DK worsted yarn might work too for this pattern. If you want to obtain the degrade, you can work with a thinner yarn, choosing two colors and working with 2 strands of yarn, using for the middle part, one strand of one color and one strand of the other.

The pattern is for sizes from 6 months up to 4-5 years and is wrote in US terms.

The total amount of yarn you will need for each size is:

  • 6 months – 140 gr/ 430 m/ 470 yds
  • 12 – 18 months – 160 gr / 510 m / 560 yds
  • 2 – 3 years – 170 gr / 545 m / 590 yds
  • 4 – 5 years – 200 gr / 630 m / 690 yds

The final dimensions of the Pumpkin Sweater are in the diagram bellow:

About the design

The Pumpkin sweater is a raglan sweater worked from top to bottom.

Starting with a yoke and then separating the sleeves from the body of the sweater. Then working the sleeves and body individually.

I liked working with raglan because no assembly is needed.

 

You might also like:

  1. Snowdrop Cardigan; 2. Mini Fancy Sweater 

3. Blue-Sky Cadi

The stitch that I used is the Cross Stitch. I alternate one round in single crochet and one in double crochet cross stitch.

Here is the stitch chart and the beginning of the yoke:

Pumpkin sweater stitch pattern chart

So, the first round will be in single crochet and the second in double crochet cross stitch.

For all the sweater we will only repeat these 2 rounds.

Cross stitch

Skip one stitch and make 1 dc in the next. Then go back and make 1 dc in the stitch that you skipped.

Abbreviation used in this pattern

Ch – chain

Sc – single crochet

Dc – double crochet

dc cross – double crochet cross stitch

St(s) – stitch (es)

Sl st – slip stitch

Inc – Increase (3 sc in the same st on the round in sc or 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc on the round in dc cross)

Dec – decrease

Gauge

9 dc cross = 10 cm (4″)

18 sc = 10 cm (4″)

12 rows ( 1 sc and 1 dc cross) = 10 cm (4″)

the pumpkin sweater

You can purchase the easy printable add-free pdf pattern from here

Now with all these things being said we can start the Pumpkin Sweater.

First the foundation chain:

  • 6 month – 56 sts
  • 12 – 18 months – 64 sts
  • 2 – 3 years – 72 sts
  • 4 – 5 years – 80 sts

Join with sl st.

Round 1

For this round the number of sts for sizes 12 – 18 months, 2-3 years and 4-5 years are wrote between brackets.

Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st  1 sc in the next 7 (8, 9, 10) sts, 1 inc in the next (3 sc in the same st).

Continue with 1 sc in the next 10 (12, 14, 16) sts, 1 inc in the next st, 1 sc in the next 16 (18, 20, 22) sts, 1 inc in the next, 1 sc in the next 10 (12, 14, 16) sts, 1 inc in the next, 1 sc in the last 8 (9, 10, 11) sts.

Sl st to join.

To be more easy to know where to increase on the next round, put a stitch marker in the second st of the increase.

Round 2

Ch 2, 1 dc in the same stitch, dc cross to the marked st, 1 inc ( 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in the marked st.

Continue with the dc cross to the next corner ( next marked st) and here make another inc.

Continue like this to the end of the round and join with a sl st with the 1st dc.

Pumpkin Sweater

We will repeat to alternate these 2 rounds until we finished the yoke and have in total:

6 months – 16 rounds

12 – 18 months – 16 rounds

2-3 years – 16 rounds

4-5 years – 18 rounds

On the next round we will separate the sleeves from the body of the pumpkin sweater.

Pumpkin sweater the yoke

You can purchase the easy printable add-free pdf pattern from here

We will start the round as normal and working 1 sc in each st until the first corner.

To make the join we will make 2 sc together, one in the fist corner, then skip the sts for the sleeve and make the second sc in the second corner.

Yarn over and pull the yarn trough all loops on the hook.

At this round I changed the color with the second one.

pumpkin sweater separating round

Now we will continue to work on the body of the Pumpkin Sweater until you have in total (counting from the armpit to the bottom):

6 months – 24 rounds

12 – 18 months – 26 rounds

2 – 3 years – 30 rounds

4 – 5 years – 32 rounds.

Having 3 more colors, I just divided the number of rounds at 3, and worked the same number of rounds with each color.

Sleeves

Round 1

Starting from the armpit, join the yarn and make 1 sc in each st around.

Make sure that you have an even number of sts because you will need that on the dc cross round.

If you don’t have, just make 1 sc more to get to an even number.

Round 2

Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, dc cross to the end of the round. Join with a sl st.

Round 3

Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st, 1 dec ( sc2tog), 1 sc in each st until you have 2 sts left, 1 dec in these 2 sts. Sl st to join.

Repeat round 2 and 3 until you have in total

6 months – 14 rounds

12 – 18 months – 14 rounds

2 – 3 years – 20 rounds

4 – 5 years – 20 rounds

Then continue to alternate one round in sc and one round in dc cross, without decreasing:

6 months – 6 more rounds

12 – 18 months – 8 more rounds

2 – 3 years – 6 more rounds

4- 5 years – 8 more rounds.

And 1 sleeve is done. For the colors I used the same pattern as for the body of the Pumpkin Sweater, only that with the last color I made less rounds because the sleeve is shorter.

Repeat the same pattern for the second sleeve and the Pumpkin Sweater is done.

Pumpkin Sweater

You can purchase the easy printable add-free pdf pattern from here

For the border I used “twisted single crochet” st. You can see how is done in the video tutorial bellow.

Hope you will love this pattern as I do and to try it.

https://ro.pinterest.com/katerina6795/free-crochet-patterns/

The Pumpkin Sweater. Free pattern with stitch chart, diagram and video tutorial. For sizes from 6 months to 4-5 years

Pumpkin Sweater. Free Pattern & Video Tutorial