Snowflakes Sweater. Crochet Pattern
This Snowflakes Sweater wasn’t supposed to be the first design published in 2021. All my projects that are still in progress (and were in progress when I started to work on this one) are in DK weight yarn or knitted ones and I needed something with faster results. Not because I was in a hurry or something, but because I was feeling that I am working a lot, but nothing is getting done.
Anyway… I think it was my mood back then….
The pattern for the yoke was actually a failed attempt back in 2018 when I didn’t know that much about crochet stitches, or yoke sweaters, but I saw a dress designed by Vanessa Montoro and I fell in love.
You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:
The yoke is the one that inspired me with the name. These days I was waiting like a child to see some snowflakes and I was checking the weather podcast hourly. Well, the snow was actually a rain, but I decided to name my sweater Snowflakes just to cheer me up a bit.
But enough talking, because it’s a lot to be read with this sweater pattern ????
MATERIALS
- Yarn
- Category 4 ( Medium Weight Yarn)
- Crochet Hook
- 5.5 mm or any other size to get to the gauge ( I used Furls Streamline Swirl Galaxy)
- You will need a yarn needle for wave in ends
- Scissors
- 4 stitch markers
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
This pattern requires techniques as single crochet, double crochet, single crochet in the back loop only and working in rounds.
The yoke, bottom of the sweater and the end of the sleeves are worked in a combination of stitches like, 3 double crochet cross stitch, shell stitch, or 5 double crochet worked together.
The Snowflakes Sweater is worked top-down, seamless and has a positive ease around bust circumference of about 14 cm.
The pattern is available in 8 sizes, from Small to 5 X Large and is written in US terms
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
Final measurements of the Snowflakes Sweater are listed below.
Neck Line a: 27 cm (27, 27, 27, 27, 27, 27, 27)
Yoke depth b: 18 cm (19, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27)
Bust Width c: 50 cm (55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85)
Sleeve Length d: 37 cm (37, 39, 39, 40, 40, 41, 41)
Sleeve circ. e: 35 cm (35, 40, 45, 50, 50, 55, 60)
Length f: 52 cm (53, 55, 56, 57, 58, 60, 61)
This measurements will fit:
| To Fit cm |
S |
M |
L |
XL |
2XL |
3XL |
4XL |
5XL |
| Bust | 86 | 96 | 106 | 116 | 126 | 136 | 146 | 156 |
How much yarn do you need?
For the Snowflakes Sweater I used Katia Merino Aran. You can also use 2 strand of Katia Basic Merino (or other dc weight yarn)
Each ball has 100 grams and approximate 155 meters.
Below are the colors I used and how much yarn you will need for each size.
For each size you will approximate need:
| Katia Merino Aran | S | M | L | XL | XXL | 3XL | 4XL | 5XL |
| 100 g/155 m | ||||||||
| Light Grey | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Off White | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| lila | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Light purple | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Dark Grey | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Black | 5 | 6 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 8 | 9 | 10 |
STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES
For the yoke, sleeves and the bottom of the sweater, we will use a combination of stitches. It’s a 5 rows combination and these 5 rows will be repeated 2 or 3 times along the yoke, depending on the size, and ones on sleeves and body.
Below is represented a stitch chart with these 5 rows:
1st Row: single crochet row. This will be an increase round.
2nd Row: ch 3, *skip next st, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1dc in the skipped stitch, going in front of the previous 2 dc. *Rep. to the end of the row.
For this particular pattern, the round will end with a 2dc cross stitch and then join with a slip stitch with 3rd st of the starting chain.
2dc cross stitch: *skip 1 sts, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the skipped st.
3rd Row: all round double crochet. This will be an increase round.
4th Row: *1sc, skip the next 2 sts, 5dc in next st (5dc shell st), skip next 2 sts. *rep. to the end of the row.
5th Row: ch3, dc2tog in the next 2 sts, ch2, 1sc in next st, ch2, *dc5tog in next 5 sts, ch 2, 1 sc in next st, ch2. Rep to the end of the row. Finish the row with dc2tog and join with a sl st with first dc2tog.
ABBREVIATIONS
- Ch – chain
- Sc – single crochet
- Ss – slip stitch
- St(s) – stitch(es)
- Dc2tog (dc5tog) – *yarn over, insert the hook into the next st, yarn over and pull it through first 2 loop on the hook. *rep 2 (or 5 times for dc5tog) times, yarn over an pull the yarn through all loops on your hook
- Inc – increase: 2sc or 2dc in the same st
- R – rounds
- ** – repeated section.
TENSION (GAUGE)
- 12 dc = 10 cm
- 5 rows = 10 cm
- 5 rows in the repeated st pattern = 8 cm
NOTES
Each round is joined with a ss.
When changing color, ss to finish the round with the next color to be use.
Ch3 st the beginning of the round counts as 1st dc unless otherwise is indicated.
Ch1 at the beginning of a sc round or if the round start with sc, doesn’t count as 1st sc.
On the yoke the increases are made on sc and dc rounds.
The yoke pattern is written by grouping sizes that have similar increase pattern.
YOKE (SIZE S, M, L, XL)
Using Black
Start: ch 66 and join the ends to make a circle
R1: ch1, 1sc in same st, 1 sc in next 9 sts, 2sc in next st, *1sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next st. * Rep. until the end of the round. (72 sts). Change to light grey.
R2: ch3, *skip the next st, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1dc in the skipped st, crossing over the previous 2dc. *Rep until the end of the round. Finish the round with: skip next st, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the skipped st, crossing over the previous dc. Hon with 3rd st of the starting ch. Change to Off White.
R3: rep. R2. Change to dark grey.
R4: ch3, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next st, 2dc in next st. * Rep. until the end of the round. Change with Lila. (108 sts)
R5: *1sc, skip the next 2 sts, 5dc in next st, skip the next 2 sts. *Rep. until the end of the round. Change with Light purple.
R6: ch3, dc2tog, ch2, 1sc in next st, ch2, *dc5tog, ch2, 1sc in next st, ch2. * Repeat until the end of the round. Finish the round with dc2tog and join with the dc2tog at the beginning of the round. Change to black.
R7: *1sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st. *Rep.until the end of the round. Change to Light Grey (144 sts)
R8: Rep.R2. Change to Off White.
R9: Rep R2. Change to Dark Grey.
R10: ch3, 1dc in next 6 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st. *Rep. until the end of the round. Change to Lila (162 sts)
R11: Rep. R5. Change to Light Purple.
R12: Rep. R6. Change to Black.
R13: *1sc in next 8 sts, 2sc in next st. *Repeat to the end of the round. (180 sts)
You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:
Only for size S
R14: 1dc in each stitch to the end of the round.
The Yoke is done and you can move to the Torso (Body) Section.
Sizes M, L, XL
Continue working in Black
R14: ch2 (does not count as first dc; work the first dc into the 1st st) *1dc in next 14 sts, 2dc in next st. *Rep. until the end of the round. (192 sts)
Only for size M
R15: 1dc in each st around.
The Yoke is done and you can move to the Torso (Body) Section.
Sizes L, XL
R15: Ch2, *1dc in next 7 sts, 2dc in next st. *Rep. until the end of the row (216 sts)
Only for size L
R16: 1dc in each st around.
The Yoke is done and you can move to the Torso (Body) Section.
Size XL
R16: ch2, *1dc in next 8 sts, 2dc in next st. *Rep. until the end of the round. (240 sts).
R16: 1dc in each st around.
The Yoke is done and you can move to the Torso (Body) Section.
YOKE (SIZES XXL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
Start: ch 66 and join the ends to make a circle
R1: ch1, 1sc in same st, 1 sc in next 9 sts, 2sc in next st, *1sc in next 10 sts, 2sc in next st. * Rep. until the end of the round. (72 sts). Change to light grey.
R2: ch3, *skip the next st, 1dc in next 2 sts, 1dc in the skipped st, crossing over the previous 2dc. *Rep until the end of the round. Finish the round with: skip next st, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the skipped st, crossing over the previous dc. Hon with 3rd st of the starting ch. Change to Off White.
R3: rep. R2. Change to dark grey.
R4: ch3, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next st, 2dc in next st. * Rep. until the end of the round. Change with Lila. (108 sts)
R5: *1sc, skip the next 2 sts, 5dc in next st, skip the next 2 sts. *Rep. until the end of the round. Change with Light purple.
R6: ch3, dc2tog, ch2, 1sc in next st, ch2, *dc5tog, ch2, 1sc in next st, ch2. * Repeat until the end of the round. Finish the round with dc2tog and join with the dc2tog at the beginning of the round. Change to black.
R7: *1sc in next 2 sts, 2sc in next st. *Rep.until the end of the round. Change to Light Grey (144 sts)
R8: Rep.R2. Change to Off White.
R9: Rep R2. Change to Dark Grey.
R10:ch3, 1dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st. *Rep. until the end of the round. Change to Lila (180 sts)
R11: Rep. R5. Change to Light Purple.
R12: Rep. R6. Change to Black.
R13: *1sc in next 4 sts, 2sc in next st. *Repeat to the end of the round. (216 sts). Change to light grey
R14: Rep.R2. Change to Off White.
R15: Rep R2. Change to Dark Grey.
R16: ch3, 1dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st, *1dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st. *Rep. until the end of the round. Change to Lila (252 sts)
R17: Rep. R5. Change to Light Purple.
R18: Rep. R6. Change to Black.
R19: *1sc in next 20 sts, 2sc in next st. Repeat to the end of the round. (264 sts)
R19 was the last round of the YOKE for size XXL. Move to the Torso (Body) Section.
You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:
Sizes 3XL, 4XL, 5XL
Work just in black
R20: ch2, *1dc in next 21 (10, 10) sts, 2dc in next . *Rep until the end of the round. (276 (288, 288) sts)
The Yoke is done for size 3XL and you can move to the Torso (Body) Section.
R21: ch2, *1dc in next 23 (7) sts, 2dc in next . *Rep until the end of the round. (300 (324) sts)
R22: ch 2, 1 dc in each st around.
The Yoke is done for size 4XL and you can move to the Torso (Body) Section.
Size 5XL R23: Rep. R22
The Yoke is done for size 5XL and you can move to the Torso (Body) Section.
TORSO (BODY)
Using stitch markers, mark the 4 sections of the sweater: front. Back, and 2 sleeves.
The first st of the round will count as the first st of the back.
Mark the sections as following. The numbers for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL are written between brackets.
Back and front: 54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 98, 102)
Sleeves: 36 (36, 42, 48, 54, 54, 60, 66)
Using color Black
R1 Separating round: ch2, 1dc in next 54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 98, 102) sts, ch6, skip 36 (36, 42, 48, 54, 54, 60, 66) sts, 1dc in next 54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 98, 102) sts, ch 6 and join with 1st dc.
R2: ch2, 1 dc in each st around.
R3 to R13: rep. R2. Change to Light Grey.
R14: Rep R2 YOKE. Change to off white.
R15: Rep. R2 YOKE. Change to Dark Grey.
R16: Rep R2. Change to Lila.
R17: Rep. R5 YOKE. Change to Light Purple
R18: Rep R6 YOKE. Change to Black
R19: 1sc in each st around.
The TORSO is finished with a bottom hem ribbing. Go to the RIBBING section.
SLEEVES
Before start working the sleeves, pay attention that the pattern at the end require a multiple of 6 sts.
When working the sleeves, the sts in corners, before and after the 6 sts armpit chain will be worked together with the next sts, to avoid increasing the total number of sts.
Using color Black
Rejoin yarn in one of the armpit sts.
R1: ch2, 1dc in each st around (pay attention to the note above).
R2 to R15 (15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18, 18): Rep. R1. Chane to light Grey
Next, rep. the last 6 rounds of the BODY section.
RIBBING
Add the ribbing on bottom hem and cuffs.
The ribbing is worked right after finishing the last row in the same color as the last row.
Start: ch 11 and turn
R1: Starting with the second st, 1sc in each of the next 10 sts, 1ss in the next 2 sts of the Body/sleeves, turn
R2: 1scblo in each of the next 10 sts, ch 1 and turn.
R3: 1scblo in each of the next 10 sts, 1ss in the next 2 sts of the Body/sleeves, turn.
Repeat R2 and R3 until you finish the entire circumference of the Body/sleeves.
Join the ends using slip stitches.
TO FINSIH
Weave in all ends and block to measurements.
And done! I really hope you like this one and can’t wait to see your color combinations.
You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:
Here you can find a step by step video tutorial, for size Small to guide you through the making process.
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)