Laguna Cardigan
You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download pdf version of this pattern here:
Pentru Postarea In Limba Romana, click aici
I’m so excited to share with you the Laguna Cardigan pattern. I love this design for the colors, shape, but also because is not that difficult to make. Plus it’s looking so great and is modern and you can ware it with everything.

I really hope you will love this Laguna Cardigan and make it. You will find all the details in this pattern, including some tips on how to adjust it to make it as you like.
About Design
The Laguna Cardigan is again worked top-down. I told you before that this raglan technique will become addictive and for me, it already is. So, we will start working from the neck, working first the yoke and then separate the sleeves from the rest of the cardigan and working the 3 parts individually. The length of the sleeves and of the cardigan can be adjusted as you wish by only making more or less rows / rounds.
The Laguna Cardigan has a closer fit, if we are looking at the final measurements, but being an opened sweater it will fit looser. The ribbed band on the collar and at the bottom is made at the end, after making the band on the edges of the front panels.
The 2 front panels are narrower then half of the back side. If you want to add some buttons or other type of closures you will have to add more bricks to the front panels.
Materials you will need
- Yarn
I used Rainbow Cotton from Hobbii. This is yarn is a 4 ply, fingering, super fine (size 1) yarn and is 100% cotton. Each skein has 50 G (1,76 oz) and 170 M ( 186 yards)

photo from Hobbii.com
- Crochet Hook
4 mm (size G )
- tapestry needle
- scissors
- stitch markers
This Laguna Cardigan pattern is available in 3 sizes, Small, Medium and Large and is written in US terms.
The final measurements are listed in the diagram bellow. On the first line are the values in Centimeters and on the second one in Inches.

How much yarn do I need:
For each size you need in total:
S – 375 G / 1265 M / 1380 Yds
M – 400 G / 1360 M / 1480 Yds
L – 430 G / 1460 M / 1590 Yds
For the Laguna Cardigan that I made I used 11 different colors and 1 skein of each color was more then enough for size S. For size M and L it will be enough one skein of each color too, but from the contrasting colors that we will use between brick rows you will need 2 skeins.
If you are choosing to work with 2 colors, you will need a proportion of 1 to 3 ( at 3 skeins for bricks color, 1 for the rows in between)
Below you will find the color scheme that I used. The colors are named the same as on Hobbii website. If you are using different brand and want to use the same colors you can find appropriate shades.

You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download pdf version of this pattern here:
About the Stitch we are using
The stitch pattern that I used for the Laguna Cardigan is known as Brick stitch
The brick stitch pattern is a 2 rows repeat: 1 with the bricks (group of double crochets separated by 1 chain) and 1 chain row (ch the same number of sts as the numbers of dc on the previous row and 1 dc in the ch 1 space from the previous row.
In our pattern, because we are using a Raglan technique, we will start with bricks of 3 dc and we will increase the numbers of dc’s until we will get to have 8 (for size S) or 9 (for sizes M and L) dc’s.
Below you will find the stitch charts representing a section of the yoke, for Small Size and for Medium and Large.

*stitch chart for size S

*stitch chart for sizes Medium and Large
*the stitch charts are representing only a section of the yoke. You will have to repeat for the entire numbers of sts.

Abbreviations used in this pattern
Ch – chain
Dc- double crochet,
Sc – Single Crochet
FPDC – front post double crochet
BPDC – back post double crochet
St (s) – Stitch (es)
Sl st – slip st
Gauge
17 dc = 10 cm (4″)
9 rows = 10 cm (4″)
With all these being written down we are ready to start making the Laguna Cardigan
As I said in the design description we will start with the yoke
Yoke
*For the starting chain, you will need multiple of 4 + 2 sts
chain:
S – 150 sts (4 bricks of 3 dc’s for front panels, 6 for sleeves, 17 for back side)
M – 158 sts (4 bricks of 3 dc’s for front panels, 7 for sleeves, 17 for back side)
L – 170 sts (5 bricks of 3 dc’s for front panels, 7 for sleeves, 18 for back side)
Row 1
for all sizes
*ch 3 at the beginning of the row counts as first dc.
Ch 3, in the 5th st, 1 dc, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row, ending the row with ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in the last st. Ch 1 and turn
Row 2
1 sc in first st, [1 sc in the next, ch 3, skip 3 sts]. repeat the section to the end of the row. End the row with 1 sc in the last 2 sts. Ch 3 and turn
Row 3
Ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in next 3. Repeat tot the end of the row. ch 1 and turn
*the dc sts are made in the ch 3 space of the previous row.
Row 4
At row 4 we will increase the number of chain sts with 1, to have on the next row bricks of 4 dc’s.
Row 4 is the same as row 2, only that we will ch 4, instead of 3
1 sc in first st [1 sc in next, ch 4, skip 3]. Repeat to the end of the row.
So, to the end of the yoke we will have to repeat the 2 rows, one with chains and one with bricks. We will increase the number of ch sts and of the dc sts to get the yoke wider.
Size S
Follow the pattern increasing with 1 st at every 2 rows of bricks.
Example: 2 rows with bricks of 4, then 2 rows with brick of 5 sts. Before starting a row with the number of sts + 1, you have to make the row with chains with the previous number of sts + 1.
Sizes M and L
The repetition will be 2 + 1, meaning we are doing 2 rows of bricks with 3 sts, then one with 4, then 2 with 5 and one with 6 and so on until we will finish the yoke.
We will work in total for the yoke, counting the rows with chains and the rows with bricks
S – 23
M – 23
L – 23
For each size you will have at the end
S – Bricks of 8 dcs
M – Bricks of 9
L – bricks of 9
On sizes M and L, on rows 22 and 23 you will have to repeat rows 20 and 21, so no increasing.
*on all sizes the last row of the yoke will be row with bricks.

Body
Row 1 (separating Row)
First row of the body is the separating row. At the beginning we noted the number of bricks that we should have for each side of the Cardigan. Use some stitch markers to mark the sections: back, sleeves and front panels:
S – 4 bricks for front panels, 6 for sleeves, 17 for back
M – 4 bricks for front panels, 7 for sleeves, 17 for the back
L – 5 bricks for front panels, 7 for sleeves, 18 for the back
After you have marked all the sections, start the row as usual. This has to be a chain row.
Numbers for sizes M and L are written between brackets
Follow the stitch pattern to the first stitch marker, 1 sc in the ch 1 space marked, ch 8 (9, 9) , skip the sts for the sleeve, 1 sc in the next st marker. Continue with the st pattern to the next st marker and proceed the same as in the opposite side. Continue with the stitch pattern to the end of the row. Ch 3 and turn

Row 2
[ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in next 8 (9, 9) sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 1 and turn
Row 3
1 sc in the 1st st, [1 sc in next, ch 8 (9,9), skip 9]. Repeat the section to the end of the row, ending the row with 2 sc in the last 2 sts.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you get to the desired length or you have in total:
S – 23 rows
M – 23 rows
L – 23 rows
Sleeves
For the sleeves we are following the same pattern as we did for the rest of the Laguna Cardigan, only that we will work in rounds.
Below is the stitch chart the the 2 rounds repeat.

The pattern is the same for all sizes, only that on sizes M and L we work with bricks of 9 sts. The sts, bellow the first 3 rounds of the sleeve represent the sts from the body placed at the armpit.
Round 1
Join the yarn in the right sc, of the brick placed at the armpit.
Ch 1, [1 sc in the same st, ch 8 (9, 9), skip 8 (9,9)], repeat the section to the end of the round, ending the round with ch 8 (9, 9), skip 8 (9,9) and sl st with the first sc.
Round 2
sl st to the ch 8 (9,9), ch 3, 1 dc in the next 7 (8,8) , [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in next 8 (9, 9)]. Repeat the section to the end of the round, ending the round with ch 1 and sl st with the ch 3 of the starting chain.
Round 3
ch 1, 1 sc in the previous ch 1 space, [ch 8 (9, 9) skip 8 (9, 9), 1 sc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the round, ending with ch 8 (9, 9) skip 8 (9, 9) and sl st with the 1st sc.
Next repeat rounds 2 and 3 until you get to the desired length of the sleeve or until you have in total:
S – 29 rounds
M – 29 rounds
L – 31 rounds
After finishing with the length make the next 2 rounds
- 1 dc in each st around
- 1 dc, skip 1, to the end of the round
After these 2 rounds we will add a ribbed band
After finishing the sleeves the Laguna Cardigan is almost done, we will only have to add a ribbed band, on the edges of the front panels first, and then on the collar and on the bottom.
But first, if you worked with more then 1 color you will have to wave in all ends

We will make the ribbed band by alternating 1 FPDC with 1 BPDC. From the colors you are using in the pattern choose some for the ribbed band.
I made 7 rows on the ribbed band in front panels edges and 5 rows on collar, bottom and sleeves.
And, done. Hope you love it. I can’t wait to see some colors.
You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download pdf version of this pattern here:
Below you will find the video tutorial. Enjoy!
Katerina


![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)

One Comment
Irene
Beautiful work!! Thank you for sharing your talent and inspiring me 🙂