Cloud Sweater. Crochet Pattern
I can’t tell you how much I love this Cloud Sweater! But I do have to tell you that I wasn’t expected that making a sweater with a 15mm crochet hook will work.
I started working on this sweater without thinking that I would finish it, that it would look ok, and that whatever I was working on would end up in a wearable sweater. But I needed something quick as everything I was working on at that moment was taking me forever.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also for the yoke section for all sizes.
I had some sample balls of yarn that Lang Yarns sent me, and I was sure that what I had won’t be enough for a sweater. Maybe that is why I tried the 15 mm crochet hook.
After posting a bit about the process on my Instagram account, many people started to ask for a pattern. So here it is. I had to make a second one for the video tutorial and test the pattern again because I didn’t take any notes. And here is how I have two Clouds Sweaters that I love, that are quick to make, and you won’t need too much yarn.
So let’s see how we can make this Cloud Sweater.
MATERIALS
• Yarn: Bulky, size 5
• Crochet Hook:
o 15 mm crochet hook
o 9 mm crochet hook for edging • yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
The Cloud Sweater has a top-down construction with a round yoke. It has a relaxed fit with a positive ease of about 10 cm around the bust circumference.
The sweater is worked in the round, only on the right side. Along the yoke section, there are several increases according to the needed yoke depth, bust, and sleeve circumference.
The yoke is then divided into sleeves and body. The 3 parts are then worked individually until completing the desired length.
To finish the sweater, work one more round in single crochet stitches, using a smaller hook size, and another round in slip stitches.
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Cloud Sweater Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from Extra Small to 5X Large.
The model is 168 cm tall and wears a size Small.
Neckline a: 22.5 cm (25, 25, 25, 27.5, 27.5, 32.5, 32.5, 32.5)
Yoke depth b: 19 cm (19, 19.5, 22, 22, 22, 24, 25.5, 27)
Bust width c: 46 cm (49, 51.5, 55, 58.5, 63.5, 68.5, 73.5, 78.5)
Sleeve circ. d: 32 cm (32, 33, 35, 37, 40, 45, 47, 52)
Sleeve Length e: 37.5 cm (36.5, 36.5, 36.5, 35.5, 35.5, 36.5, 37.5)
Length f: 43 cm (43, 44, 46, 46, 46, 48, 49, 51)
How much yarn do you need?
I made two samples following the Cloud Sweater Pattern.
For the first one, I used Lang Yarns Cloud in color 10; the yarn composition is 90% merino, 10% nylon; 1 ball has 100 grams and approximately 260 meters
For the second one, I used Lang Yarns Bergen ( I finished the sleeve with a different yarn) in color 01; the yarn composition is 93% Alpaca, 7% nylon; one ball has 50 grams and approximately 120 meters
For each size, you will need:
500 (520, 560, 610, 670, 720, 800, 860, 940) meters
The yarn I used has a different density than the most common bulky weight yarn. That is why the length/grams is different. Any other bulky yarn can be used, but the fabric will be heavier.
Here are some yarn suggestions: Katia Concept – Souspir, Wool and the Gang – Feeling Good Yarn, KnitPicks – Wonderfluff; Juniper Moon Farm – Beatrix
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
Inc – increase-2hdc into the same st
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rows
** – repeated section
TENSION
Using a 15 mm crochet hook in half double crochet
6 hdc = 10 cm
6 rows = 10cm
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also for the yoke section for all sizes.
STITCH PATTERNS AND TECHNIQUES
The main stitch pattern for the Cloud Sweater is a half-double crochet.
For the bottom and sleeves edging, use single crochet for the first round and another round in slip stitches.
When increasing, work 2 half double crochet into the same stitch.
I worked the half-double crochet into the space between the stitches.
You can work in continuous rounds to avoid the joining line created when closing the round. (you will not join with a slip stitch into the first st, but work a half double crochet directly into the first st). Using this method, use stitch markers to mark the first st so you can easily count the rounds.
PATTERN NOTES
- Work the piece in the round only on the right side
- you can work in continuous rounds
- if you don’t want to work in the continuous round, close the round with a slip stitch. you can either start the round with ch2, which will count as the first hdc, or with ch2 and then work 1hdc into the first st (ch2 won’t count as a first hdc)
INSTRUCTIONS
The pattern below is written in US terms. Numbers are written as XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL); if not, the pattern applies to all sizes.
YOKE
Start Ch 27 (30, 30, 30, 33, 33, 39, 39, 39) sts; join with a slip stitch to make a circle.
R1: 1sc in each st around
Total sts: 27 (30, 30, 30, 33, 33, 39, 39, 39) sts;
R2: *1Inc, 1hdc in next 2 sts. *rep. section 9 (10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13) times
Total: 36 (40, 40, 40, 44, 44, 52, 52, 52)
sts
R3: 1hdc in each st around
Total: 36 (40, 40, 40, 44, 44, 52, 52, 52)
sts
R4: *1hdc in next 3sts, 1Inc; *rep. section 9 (10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13) times
Total sts: 45 (50, 50, 50, 55, 55, 65, 65, 65)
R5: rep. R3
Total sts: 45 (50, 50, 50, 55, 55, 65, 65, 65)
R6: *1Inc, 1hdc in next 4sts;*rep. section 9 (10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13) times
Total: 54 (60, 60, 60, 66, 66, 78, 78, 78)
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also for the yoke section for all sizes.
R7: Rep. R3
Total: 54 (60, 60, 60, 66, 66, 78, 78, 78)
R8: *1hdc in next 5sts, 1Inc; *rep. section 9 (10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13) times
Total: 63 (70, 70, 70, 77, 77, 91, 91, 91)
R9: Rep. R3
Total: 63 (70, 70, 70, 77, 77, 91, 91, 91)
R10: 1Inc, 1hdc in next 6sts. *rep. section 9 (10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13) times
Total: 72 (80, 80, 80, 88, 88, 104, 104, 104)
Size XS only
R11: *1hdc in next 17sts, 1Inc; rep. the section 4 times;
Total 76 sts
For size XS, the YOKE is done; move to the BODY section
Sizes: -, S, M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL
R11: Rep. R3:
Total: – (80, 80, 80, 88, 88, 104, 104, 104)
For size S, the YOKE is done; move to the BODY section
Size M only
R12: 1hdc in next 39sts, 1Inc in next st; *rep. the section 2 times.
Total: 82 sts.
For size M, the YOKE is done; move to the BODY section
Sizes: -, -, -, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL
R12: *1hdc in next 7sts, 1Inc; *rep. section 9 (10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13) times
Total: -, (-, -, 90, 99, 99, 117, 117, 117)
Size L only
R13: *1Inc, 1hdc in next 44sts. *rep the section 2 times.
Total: 92
For size L, the YOKE is done; move to the BODY section.
Size XXL only:
R13: *1Inc, 1hdc into the next 18sts; *rep the section 5 times; 1hdc in last 4sts.
Total: 104 sts.
For size XXL, the YOKE is done; move to the BODY section
Sizes: -, -, -, -, XL, -, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL
R13: rep. R3
Total: Total: -, (-, -, -, 99, -, 117, 117, 117)
For size XL the YOKE is done; move to the BODY section
Size 3XL only
R14: Rep. R3
Total: 117
For size 3XL, the YOKE is done; move to the BODY section
Size 4XL only
R14: *1Inc, 1hdc in next 38sts; *rep. the section 3 times
Total: 120sts
R15: rep. R3
Total 120 sts
For size 4XL, the YOKE is done; move to the BODY section
Size 5XL only
R14: *1inc, 1hdc in next 8sts. ; rep. the section 13 times
Total: 130 sts
R15: rep. R3
R16: 1hdc in next 4sts, *1hdc in next 20sts; *rep. the section 6 times.
Total: 136sts
For size 4XL, the YOKE is done; move to the BODY section.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also for the yoke section for all sizes.
Before moving into the BODY section, let’s summarize the number of stitches for the YOKE
Number of rows for the YOKE:
11 (11, 12, 13, 13, 13, 14, 15, 16)
Total sts: 76 (80, 82, 92, 99, 104, 117, 120, 136)
BODY
For the next step, use st markers to mark the sleeves and body sts.
The first st in the round will be the first st of the BACK.
XS – 25 sts for Back and Front, 13 sts for sleeves
S – 27 sts for Back and Front, 13 sts for sleeves
M – 28 sts for Back and Front, 13 sts for sleeves
L – 31 sts for Back and Front, 15 sts for sleeves
XL – 33 sts for Back, 34 sts for Front, 16 sts for sleeves
XXL – 35sts for Back and Front, 17 sts for sleeves
3XL – 38 sts for Back, 39sts for Front, 20 sts for sleeves
4XL – 40 sts for Back and Front, 20 sts for sleeves
5XL – 44 sts for Back and Front, 24 sts for sleeves
R1:SEPARATING ROUND: 1hdc in next 25 (27, 28, 31, 33, 35, 38, 40, 44) sts, ch 2 (2, 3, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 3) sts, skip next 13 (13, 13, 15, 16, 17, 20, 20, 24) sts, 1hdc in next 25 (27, 28, 31, 33, 35, 38, 40, 44) sts, ch 2 (2, 3, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 3) sts, skip next 13 (13, 13, 15, 16, 17, 20, 20, 24)
R2: 1hdc in each st around
Rep R2 until you get to the desired length or until you have 15 rounds.
After finishing the BODY, move to the EDGING section.
SLEEVES
When working the first round of the sleeves, you will add 2 more sts on each side of the armpit chain. One will be the side row of the separating round (into the side row, you can work 2hdc together if working only one creates a big hole), and one will be into the body st, right next to the sleeve sts.
Rejoin Yarn at the armpit.
R1: 1hdc in each st around.
Rep. R1 until you get to the desired length or until you have 23 (22, 22, 22, 21, 21, 22, 22, 23) rounds.
EDGING
Work the edging around the bottom hem and sleeves.
Change to a 9mm crochet hook
R1: 1sc in each st around; close the round with an ss into the first sc.
R2: 1ch, 1sl st in each st around; lose the round with an ss into the first ss.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also for the yoke section for all sizes.
And done! I hope you will like this pattern as much as I do and I can’t wait to see your “Clouds”
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![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)
Left Over Yarn Purse
