I am simply in love with this new design and so thankful that @misscjcrafts suggested the Wrap Me in Love name because this is what I feel every time I dress these pieces of clothes: love!
The Wrap Me in Love Sweater inspiration came again from a store dress that I bought a long time ago. Imagine being in my wardrobe for so long; I was so happy that I finally made one with my hands.
It was a lot of work figuring out the pattern because the machine knitted fabric is nothing similar to the hand-knitted and even more crochet. The actual dress helped a lot, though, to figure out how I have to work the pieces and how to assemble them, and the rest was just about trying on and adjusting the shape on the go.
It was the first design for which I made two samples, but I wanted to make sure that everything works as I calculated. Also, I wanted to know how the drape will be using a different fiber. And the result was a happy one.
You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern, with step by step instructions, stitch and row counts from S up to 5XL sizes here:
You can also find a video tutorial here
Let’s see a list of materials, the logic behind this design, and how to customize your own.
In the material list, you will find everything I used for both samples.
With the info you will find here, you will be able to make this sweater in any yarn. Just consider that using different yarn and having a different tension might need less or more yarn.
MATERIALS
- Yarn
- Category 1 to 3 ( Fingering to DK weight yarn)
- Crochet Hook
- 4.5 mm crochet hook and a 3.5 mm for Sweater’s ribbing
- You will need a yarn needle to weave in the ends
- Scissors
- stitch markers
- elastic band (approximate 3 cm shorter than the waist circumference) – optional
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
This pattern requires techniques like half double crochet, single crochet in the back loop only, increase.
The construction is easier than it looks. For the top, work two identical pieces, starting from the cuff.
Work front and back panels in a single piece.
In the end, fold both pieces in half and stitch the sides. Then place one piece inside the other, with the corners next to the other piece’s side seam, and join the bottom using single crochet stitches.
To make the top longer, into a dress, after assembling, start to work in circular rounds from the bottom of the top.
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
Final measurements of the Wrap Me in Love Sweater are listed below:
Cuff Circ a: 24 cm (26, 28, 30, 34, 39, 43, 47, 49)
Sleeve length b: 17 cm (17, 19, 19, 20, 20, 21, 21)
Bust width c: 43 cm (47, 53, 57, 63, 67, 73, 77)
Top Length d:
Sweater (without ribbing): 46 cm (48, 47, 48, 48, 48, 50, 50)
Dress: 40 cm (40, 41, 42, 42, 42, 44, 44, 44)
These measurements will fit:
| To Fit cm |
S |
M |
L |
XL |
2XL |
XL |
2XL |
3XL |
4XL |
5XL |
| Bust | 86 | 96 | 106 | 116 | 126 | 116 | 126 | 136 | 146 | 156 |
How much Yarn do you need?
I made the 2 versions of samples using 2 different types and yarn weights.
For the Sweater, I used Scheepjes Catona, which is a mercerized fingering cotton yarn.
I used Katia Sky for the dress, a blend of cotton, wool, and polyamide in a DK weight.
I worked on both samples using the same hook size.
| Dress | Katia Sky | S | M | L | XL | XXL | 3XL | 4XL | 5XL |
| 50g/160 m | 11 | 12 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | |
| Sweater | Catona | ||||||||
| 50g / 125 m | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 |
STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES
The main stitch pattern for both samples is 1 row in half double crochet and one row in mesh stitch (1half double crochet, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 stitch)
The pattern for the ribbing is single crochet in the back loop only.
I used the skirt as a pattern 3 rows in half double crochet and 1row in mesh stitch.
For the final touches of both top pieces, I used twisted single crochet.
You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern, with step by step instructions, stitch and row counts here from S up to 5XL sizes :
SPECIAL STITCHES
Foundation half double crochet
We are using the foundation half double crochet to extend the trunk’s length at the end of the row for this particular pattern.
1st st: Yarn over and insert the hook in the side of the last stitch. Yarn over, pull it through the first loop only, yarn over, and pull it through all loops.
2nd st, and all the next sts: Yarn over, insert the hook into the bottom v of the previous st, yarn over and pull it through the first loop, yarn over and pull it through all the loops.
Twisted single crochet
Insert the hook into the next st, yarn over, and pull out a loop. Turn your hook 180 Degrees, clock-wise. Yarn over and pull it through both loops on your hook.
ABBREVIATIONS
- Ch – chain
- hdc – half double crochet
- Sc – single crochet
- Tsc – twisted single crochet
- Fhdc – foundation half double crochet
- Scblo – single crochet in the back loop only
- Ss – slip stitch
- St(s) – stitch(es)
- R – rows
- ** – repeated section.
TENSION (GAUGE)
Using a 4.5 mm crochet hook in the main stitch pattern (1 row in hdc, 1 row in mesh st)
- 15 sts and 11 rows = 10 cm
NOTES
Always ch2 at the end of each hdc row. Ch2 does not count as the first dc.
Always ch1 at the end of each sc row. Ch1 does not count as first sc.
When working perpendicular with the scblo rows, each side row represents 1 st.
Work both top pieces flat. Turn after each row.
Join the bottom of the top pieces by working in the round.
Work the dress’s skirt in the round. Join with a slip stitch after each round.
For the dress, I use an elastic band to make the waist a closer fit. You can use an elastic band for the sweater version as well. After working the ribbing, if you want a closer fit on the waist, you can insert an elastic band.
The elastic band has to be approximately 3 cm shorter than your waist circumference.
To insert the elastic band, work 1 round in single crochet stitches, working over the elastic band.
How to adjust the pattern to your measurements, yarn, and tension:
Start with a swatch in the main stitch pattern.
Below you can see the diagram with one piece of the top part.
What to measure?
Cuff
First, we will start with the cuff. The cuff width is proportional to the upper arm circumference.
In this particular case, the cuff is approximately 2 cm smaller than the upper arm.
Measure upper arm, and then subtract 2 cm. This value will be the cuff length.
Knowing the gauge from your swatch, calculate how many stitches you will need to get to that length.
For this particular sample, the cuff width is 7 cm.
The cuff is worked in single crochet in the back loop only. Swatch this stitch and see how many sts you will need to get to 7 cm.
The value will be the number of sts to start with for the cuff.
After you have the number of sts for the cuff, work in single crochet in the back loop only the number of rows needed to get to the cuff length calculated above. It has to be an odd number of rows.
Sleeve
The sleeve length is proportional to the actual sleeve length.
Measure your sleeve length from the armpit to the cuff.
The exact sleeve length for this sample will be shorter. Then subtract the cuff width (7cm)
Calculate the number of rows that you will need to get to the actual sleeve length. Subtract 26 cm, and the result will be the sleeve length for your sample (approximate 40% of the exact sleeve length)
Now that you know how many rows you will need for the sleeve, you are good to go. Work the 1st row of the sleeve perpendicular with the cuff without increasing. Next, increase with 1st at the beginning of the row and one st at the end of the row until you complete the sleeve length.
The last row of the sleeve length has to be a mesh stitch row.
Trunk length
The first step is to increase the sleeve’s number of sts to get to the desired length.
The sweater sample was designed with 7 cm over the waist length, represented by the ribbing.
The dress’s top is designed approximately 3 cm less than the standard waist-length measurements.
Measure your desired length. Divide the total number of sts of the sleeve by 2. Calculate how many sts you will need to get to the desired length. Subtract (sleeve’s sts/2) and see how many sts you will need to add on each side.
You will need an even number of sts.
Next, at the end of the last sleeve’s row, add the extra ch sts. Turn and work the row until the end. At the end of the row, add the extra sts, using foundation half double crochet.
Trunk width
Measure the biggest part of your body (bust or waist). Divide the number by 2, and this will be the value for your trunk width.
Calculate according to your gauge how many rows you will need to get to the trunk width. It has to be an odd number.
Next, for the second part of the trunk width, you will need to increase it. The corner of the current piece has to reach the side seam of the other side.
To know how many rows to work without increasing and increasing, divide the total number of rows by 2. For example, I had in total 47 rows. Divided by 2, I will get 23.5. In this case, I will work 23 rows without increasing and 24 rows with increasing.
The increases will be made starting with a mesh stitch row. The pattern will be:
Increase row: 1hdc, ch2, 1hdc in 1st st (inc), continue with mesh st until the end of the row. 1hdc, ch1, 1hdc in the last st (inc)
Work next 3 rows, without increasing.
Repeat the 4 rows pattern until you complete the trunk width.
Repeat the same pattern for the second piece, and then follow the assembling diagrams you can find in the instructions below:
INSTRUCTIONS
Numbers for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL are written between brackets.
TOP PIECE (MAKE 2)
CUFF
Start: ch 16 (16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16)
R1: Staring with 2nd st, 1sc in each st until the end of the row.
R2: 1sc in 1st st, 1scblo in each of the next sts, except the last one, 1sc in last st.
R3 – R39 (41, 45, 51, 59, 65, 71, 75): rep. R2
SLEEVE
Start: from where your yarn is, ch2, and start working perpendicular on the cuff rows.
R1: 1hdc in each st (39 (41, 45, 51, 59, 65, 71, 75) sts)
R2: 2hdc in 1st st, 1hdc in each of the next sts except the last one, 2hdc in last st.
R3: 2hdc in 1st st, ch1, skip 1st, *1hdc in next st ch1, skip 1st.* rep. until the end of the row. Finish the row with 2hdc in last st.
R4 – R11 (11, 13, 13, 14, 14, 14, 15, 15): rep R2 and R3. (59 (61, 69, 75, 85, 91, 99, 103) sts
TRUNK
At the end of the previous row ch32 (32, 30, 28, 22, 20, 20, 16) for the dress length and ch42 (40, 38, 36, 32, 28, 28, 26) sts for the sweater length.
*note
The numbers for bigger sizes were calculated according to the length measurements (see the MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES section). The waist-length measurement differences between sizes are smaller compared with the width differences. To make sure, measure the needed length or use the numbers for Small size.
R1: Starting with the 3rd st, 1hdc in each st until the end of the row. Finish the row with 30 (30, 28, 26, 20, 18, 18, 14) for the dress length and 40 (38, 36, 34, 30, 26, 26, 24) Fhdc for the sweater length.
R2: 1hdc in 1st st, *ch1, skip 1st, 1hdc in next st. *rep. until the end of the row.
R3: 1hdc in each st until the end of the row.
Rep. R2 and R3 until you have in total 23 (25, 29, 31, 35, 37, 39, 43) rows.
Next row: [1hdc, ch1, 1hdc] in the 1st st, ch1, skip next st, *1hdc in next st, ch1m skip 1st. Rep. until the end of the row except the last st, [1hdc, ch1, 1hdc] in the last st.
Next row: 1hdc in each st until the end of the row.
Next row: 1hdc in 1st st, *ch1, skip 1st, 1hdc in next st. *Rep. until the end of the row.
Next row: 1hdc in each st until the end of the row.
Rep. the previous 4 rows, until you have in total for the trunk 47 (51, 59, 63, 69, 73, 79, 85) rows.
2nd to the last row: 1sc in each st until the end of the row.
Last row: 1sc in 1st st, 1Tsc in each of the next sts, except the last one, 1sc in the last st.
Fasten off.
ASSEMBLING
Step 1: Fold each piece in half and stitch the edges.
Step 2: Insert one piece inside the other. The corner has to be next to the other piece’s side seam.
Use stitch markers to keep in place the corners, joined with the other piece’s side seam.
Rejoin yarn on one side and single crochet around to join the pieces together
In each side row hdc, work 2sc.
After completing the joining round, work one more round in single crochet sts.
SWEATER RIBBING
Use a 3.5 mm crochet hook, ch11.
R1: starting with 2nd st, 1sc in each of the 10th sts, ss with the next 2sts of the bottom hem. Turn.
R2: 1scblo in each of the next 9 sts, 1sc in the last st
R3: 1sc in the 1st st, 1scblo in each of the next sts, ss with the next 2 sts of the bottom hem. Turn.
Repeat R2 and R3 until you complete the entire circumference of the Sweater. Join the ribbing ends with slip stitches.
Optional, if you want a closer fir to the waist, work one more single crochet round over an elastic band.
DRES’S SKIRT
Continue from the second joining round.
R1-R3: 1sc in each st around.
Optional, on round 1, to have a closer fir for the waist, work the sts over an elastic band.
Starting with round 4, optional turn after each round.
If you decide to work mesh stitch pattern rows, make sure you have an even number of sts. Adjust by increasing if needed.
R4 – R6: 1hdc, in each st around.
R7: ch3, skip next st, *1hdc in next st, ch1, skip 1st, 1hdc in next st. *Rep. until the end of the round. Join with an ss wit 2nd st of the starting ch.
R8 – R36: Rep. R4-R7.
R37 – 39: 1hdc in each st around.
R40: 1sc in each st around
R41: 1Tsc in each st around.
Fasten off.
Notes:
- use any stitch pattern you like for the skirt.
- Work as many rows as needed to get to the desired length
- If you need more width, increase the number of sts on the first rounds in single crochet.
DRES’S WAIST CORD
Start: ch5
R1: start in the 2nd st, 1sc in each st.
R2: 1sc in each st.
Rep. R2 until the band measures twice your waist circumference.
Optional, make one round in Tsc.
BACKSTRAP
To avoid the Sweater falling over the shoulders, work a back strap to join the left and right sides.
Count 16 sts from the shoulder and rejoin yarn.
R1: Ch1, 1sc in next 4 sts, ch1 and turn
R2: 1sc in each st
R3 – R12: Rep R2
Join the strap with the other side with the correspondent sts.
TO FINISH
Weave in all ends and block to measurements.
You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern, with step by step instructions, stitch and row counts here from S up to 5XL sizes :
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