Thai Pants Crochet Pattern
I open this new years crochet designs with my unique Thai Pants that I hope you will love them as much as I do.
2019 appears to be an year full of challenges and also a great year. At the ending of 2018 I became an Hobbii Yarn Group Friends Member and I am so proud of this and I know that this is also thanks to you.
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You can purchase the add-free easy printable pdf pattern from my shop here
or
To see the free pattern scroll down
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The idea of these cool Thai Pants came to me some time ago. I used to have one of these in high school (not crocheted off course) and I truly love them since they ware so confy and so easy to ware. So, I was thinking that it will be a great crochet project and a new reason to prove that crochet garments can be cool and with crochet you can do almost everything.
About Design
The design of these Thai Pants is pretty simple and even a beginner will be able to make them, with a little bit of patience. We will work 2 identical parts, with a little U shape space on the top (This U shape space will be the space between legs). The parts will be sew together across this U shape space and then add some strips that will be used to tied the pants around our waist.
About Materials you will need
- Yarn
I used Cotton Kings Twirls from Hobbii in color jade for the main part of the pants.
This yarn is a 5 ply. fine (category Sport) cotton yarn. For the upper part I use a simple 8/4 cotton (Fingering yarn) and it worked pretty well.
- Needles
4 mm ( G US size) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle for sewing and waving in ends
- Scissors
- 2 stitch markers
I loved working with Cotton Kings Twirls. Is a great yarn, easy to work with. You can find a lot of beautiful colors with many colors changing or just with a degrade shades. Plus you can also find on Hobbii a Twirl Deluxe collection which you might want to try.
Now, Doesn’t matter what yarn you will want to use to make these Thai pants (I recommend Fingering or fine weight yarn) you will approximate need:
S – 600 grams / 2400 m / 2600 yds (3 twirls)
M – 700 grams / 2800 m / 3050 yds (4 twirls)
L – 800 grams / 3200 m / 3490 yds (4 twirls)
XL – 875 grams / 3500 m / 3815 yds (5 twirls)
This pattern is available for sizes from S to 1X Large and is wrote in US terms.
To see the final measurement of the 2 parts of these Thai pants check the diagram bellow
As you can see in the diagram above, is pretty easy to adjust the measurement of these Thai Pants. Only measure yourself and you will have the right measurement and you will be sure that these pants will fit you well.
About the stitch
I used for the entire project half double crochet worked in all 3 loops, but you can use any stitch you want and if you will have different gauge just use as reference the diagram above.
Gauge
18 hdc = 10 cm (4″)
17 rows = 10 cm (4″)
Abbreviations used in this pattern
Ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet (through all 3 loops)
sc – single crochet
st(s) – stitch (es)
dec – decrease (sc2tog – 2 sc worked together)
You can purchase the add-free easy printable pdf pattern from my shop here
Ok. Let’s start making these pretty damn cool Thai Pants 🙂
Like I said, we will work 2 identical part. So, follow the pattern bellow twice.
Foundation Chain. Make the number of ch sts listed bellow plus 2, so at the end of the 1st row to have the same number of sts as listed
S – 145 sts
M – 159 sts
L – 181 sts
XL – 197 sts
Row 1
1 hdc (worked in all 3 loops) in each st. Ch 2 and turn ( ch 2 doesn’t count as a first st)
Row 2 – 102
Repeat row 1.
*If you want to increase the length of your Thai Pants make more rows here.
After completing the 102 rows we will make the U shape space. To make that we will work left side and right side separately.
We will have to mark the bottom of the U. Use 2 stitch markers to be easier.
S – let 5 sts in the middle , you will have 70 sts on the left and 70 of the right
M – let 5 sts in the middle. you will have 77 sts on the left and 77 on the right
L – let 7sts in the middle. you will have 87 sts on the left and 87 on the right
XL – let 7 sts in the middle. you will have 95 sts on the left and 95 on the right
Row 103
1 hdc in each st, until you have 2 sts left (1 before the st marker and one with the st marker). In these 2 sts make a decrease (sc2tog). Ch 1 and turn
Row 104
1 dec in the first 2 sts, 1 hdc in each of the sts left. Ch 2 and turn
Repeat rows 103 and 104 for:
S – 12 rows
M – 12 rows
L – 13 rows
XL – 13 rows
Now, continue without decreasing:
S – 39 more rows
M – 39 more rows
L – 47 more rows
XL – 47 more row
*if you want your high waist higher, increase the number of rows here.
This was the right side as your facing your work.
Repeat the pattern for the left side, only that this time you will start from the stitch marker and with a decrease. Follow the same number of rows as for the right side to have a symmetrical shape.
After that, add some strips on each side. I made the strips working 3 sts in hdc for 33 rows.
Well, this was it with the pattern of the Thai pants. Now, make another panel identical.
To assemble put the 2 panels one over the other and sew the edges of the U shape space
And done. Your Thai pants are ready to be worn.
But, wait, here is a picture that will help you to figure it out how to dress them 🙂
After following the picture above just warp the front side over your waist and tie it on the back, then wrap the back side and tie it in front using the strips you made.
And voila:
Hope you love them and at least be curious to try them. As I said you can use any stitch you want. Can’t wait to see your version.
You can purchase the add-free easy printable pdf pattern from my shop here
https://nl.pinterest.com/katerina6795/free-crochet-patterns/
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)
