The Sprinkles Sweater and Skirt wasn’t a project that I had in mind when first ordered this yarn. But as usual, I am constantly changing my mind when it comes to my designs. I have so many ideas and so little time for them.
When started to work on this sweater is was like a challenge, because I used Medium Weight yarn, but with a stitch pattern (central single crochet) that creates a thick fabric, especially if is worked with thicker yarn.
So the challenge was, to create a sweater that can be actually worn, without feeling too stiff. What I did? I changed the hook size with about 3 sizes up, from a 7mm crochet hook, the one recommended on the yarn label, to a 10mm crochet hook. After a few swatches, I got what I wanted from the fabric and I was so happy with the result.
What exactly was the result? A Sweater that was fast to make but it doesn’t feel bulky at all.
And because I had some balls of yarn left I decided to make a Sprinkles Skirt too. Which was so easy to make! (see the skirt pattern here)
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And because I know you want to see how you can make this sweater, le’s get into the pattern.
You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
MATERIALS
• Yarn: Yarn: aran (heavy worsted) yarn weight (Size 4)
• Crochet Hook:
o 10 mm crochet hook
o 8 mm crochet hook (for the bottom, neckline and sleeves edging)
• yarn needle for weave in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
The Sprinkles Sweater has a top-down construction with a round yoke. It has a relaxed fit with a positive ease of about 14 cm around the bust circumference.
The sweater is worked in the round, only on the right side. Along the yoke section, there are several increases accordingly with the needed yoke depth and, bust and sleeves circumference.
The yoke is then divided into sleeves and body. The 3 parts are then worked individually until completing the desired length.
To finish the sweater work the ribbing on the neckline, sleeves’ cuffs, and bottom hem.
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Sprinkles Sweater Pattern is available in 8 sizes, from Small up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall and wears a size Small.
How much yarn do you need?
For the Sprinkled Sweater, I used Azulejo from Katia Yarns in color 406 – Red brown-Pearl black berry-Red. Each ball has 100 grams and 130 meters. Yarn composition is 65% Acrylic – 17% Polyamide – 11% Wool – 7% Alpaca
This yarn is listed as a Size 4 as is light and the meters in 100 grams, are the same as for a Size 4 yarn. I had to say that it has 2 strands (another strand that gives those sprinkles effect) and combined I find the yarn being thicker than a Size 4. I will recommend a size 4 because the final project will be lighter than if you will use a bigger size.
For each size you will need:
6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13) balls or
755 m (835,975, 1080, 1210, 1320, 1445, 1580) meters
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
csc – centered single crochet
ss – slip stitch
ssblo – slip stitch in the back loop only
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rows
** – repeated section.
TENSION
Using 10 mm crochet hook in central single crochet
8 sts = 10 cm
11 rows = 10cm
You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES
Working in the round: Invisible Join
You will join your round by making a slst into the first st. To make it as invisible as possible, pull out the hook and insert the hook from back to front into the first st; insert the hook into the working loop and pull it out through the stitch.
Start the round without a ch stitch.
cdc: centered double crochet
Stitches are worked as a regular dc, but instead of inserting your hook through the top loops, you will insert the hook into the “v” formed at the base of the stitch. Stitches need to be loose to make entering the stitch easier.
PATTERN NOTES
Work the piece in the round only on the right side
Close each round with an invisible slip stitch and start each round without a ch stitch.
In the PDF version of this Pattern, you will find the charts for the YOKE section for all sizes
The chart represents one repeated section; repeat this section as many times as indicated in the chart
INSTRUCTIONS
YOKE
Sizes S, M, L
Numbers for sizes M and L are written between Brackets
Rep. the section 12 (13, 13) times
Start: Ch 48 (52, 52) sts; slip stitch to make a circle.
R1: 1ch, 1sc in each st until the end of the round.
Total: 48 (52, 52)
R2: 1csc in each st around;
Total: 48 (52, 52)
R3: *2csc, 1csc in next 3sts.
Total: 60 (65, 65)
R4: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 60 (65, 65)
R5: rep. R4
R6:*1csc in next 4sts, 2csc in next st.
Total: 72 (78, 78) sts
R7: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 72 (78, 78) sts
R8: rep. R7
R9: *2csc, 1csc in next 5sts.
Total: 84 (91, 91) sts
R10: 1csc in each st around
Total: 84 (91, 91) sts
R11: Rep. R10
R12: *1csc in next 6sts, 2csc in next st.
Total: 96 (104, 104) sts
R13: 1csc in each st around
Total: 96 (104, 104) sts
R14: rep. R13
R15: *2csc, 1csc in next 7sts.
Total: 108 (117, 117)
R16: 1csc in each st around
Total: 108 (117, 117)
R17: Rep. R16
R18: *1csc in next 8sts, 2csc in next st
Total: 120 (130, 130)
R19: 1csc in each st around
Total: 120 (130, 130)
R20: rep. R19
Size S, M only
Rep. R19 1 (3) more rounds.
Total rows: 21 (23)
Total sts: 120 (130)
For sizes Small and Medium, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
Size L Only
R21: 2csc, 1csc in next 9sts.
Total: 143sts
R22: 1csc in each st around
Total: 143sts
R23 – R25: Rep R22.
Total: 143
For size Large, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
YOKE
Sizes XL, XXL
Numbers for size XXL are between brackets; if not the pattern applies for both sizes
Rep. the section 9 times.
Start: Ch54; slip stitch to make a circle.
R1: 1sc in each st around
Total: 54 (54) sts
R2: 1csc in each st around
Total: 54 (54) sts
R3: 2csc, 1csc in next 5sts.
Total: 63 (63) sts
R4: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 63 (63) sts
R5: rep. R4
R6:1csc in next 6sts, 2csc in next st.
Total: 72 (72) sts
R7: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 72 (72) sts
R8: Rep. R7
R9: 2csc, 1csc in next 7sts.
Total: 81 (81)
R10: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 81 (81)
R11: Rep. R10
R12: 1csc in next 8sts, 2csc in next st.
Total: 90 (90)
R13: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 90 (90)
R14 (Size XXL only): Rep. R13
*next, the first number is te row number for size XL and the second number is the row number for size XXL.
R14 (15): 2csc, 1csc in next 9sts
Total: 99 (99)
R15 (16): 1csc in each st around.
Total: 99 (99)
R17 (size XXL only): rep. R16
R16 (18): 1csc in next 10sts, 2csc in next st.
Total: 108 (108) sts
R17 (19): 1csc in each st around.
Total: 108 (108) sts
R18 (20): 2csc, 1csc in next 11sts
Total: 117 (117) sts
R19 (21): 1csc in each st around.
Total: 117 (117) sts
R20 (22): 1csc in next 12sts, 2csc in next st.
Total: 126 (126) sts
R21 (R23): 1csc in each st around.
Total: 126 (126) sts
R22 (24): 2csc, 1csc in next 13sts
Total: 135 (135)
R23 (25): 1csc in each st around.
Total: 135 (135)
R24 (26): 1csc in next 14sts, 2csc in next st
Total: 144 (144) sts
R25 (Size XL only): 1csc in each st around.
Total: 144
R26 (R27): 2csc, 1csc in next 15sts
Total: 153 (153) sts
R28 (Size XXL only): 1csc in next 16sts, 2csc in next st;
Total: 162 sts
For sizes XL and XXL, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
YOKE
Sizes 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL
Numbers for size 4XL and 5XL are between brackets; if not the pattern applies for both sizes
Rep. the section 8 times.
Start: ch 56 (56, 56); slip stitch to make a circle.
R1: 1sc in each st around
R2: 1csc in next 6sts, 2csc in next st.
Total: 64 (64, 64) sts
R3: 2csc, 1csc in next 7sts.
Total: 72 (72, 72) sts
R4: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 72 (72, 72) sts
R5: 1csc in next 8sts, 2csc in next st
Total: 81 (81, 81) sts
R6: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 80 (80, 80) sts
R7: 2csc, 1csc in next 9sts
Total: 88 (88, 88)
R8: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 88 (88, 88)
R9: 1csc in next 10sts, 2csc in next st
Total: 96 (96, 96)
R10: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 96 (96, 96)
R11: 2csc, 1csc in next 11sts
Total: 104 (104, 104)
R12: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 104 (104, 104)
R13: 1csc in next 12sts, 2csc in next st
Total: 112 (112, 112)
R14: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 112 (112, 112)
R15: 2csc, 1csc in next 13sts
Total: 120 (120, 120)
R16: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 120 (120, 120)
R17: 1csc in next 14sts, 2csc in next st
Total: 128 (128, 128)
R18: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 128 (128, 128)
R19: 2csc, 1csc in next 15sts
Total: 136 (136, 136)
R20: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 136 (136, 136)
R21: 1csc in next 16sts, 2csc in next st
Total: 144 (144, 144)
R22: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 144 (144, 144)
R23: 2csc, 1csc in next 17sts;
Total: 152 (152, 152)
R24: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 152 (152, 152)
R25: 1csc in next 18sts, 2csc in next st
Total: 160 (160, 160)
R26: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 160 (160, 160)
R27: 2csc, 1csc in next 19sts
Total: 168 (168, 168)
R28: 1csc in each st around.
Total: 168 (168, 168)
R29: 1csc in next 20sts, 2csc in next st
Total: 176 (176, 176)
For size 3XL the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
R30: 1csc in each st around.
Total: – (176, 176)
R31: 2csc, 1csc in next 21sts.
Total: – (184, 184)
For size 4XL the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
R32: 1csc in each st around.
Total: – (-, 184)
R33: 1csc in next 22sts, 2csc in next st
Total: – (-, 192)
For size 5XL the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
BODY
Before moving into the BODY section, let’s summarize the number of stitches for the YOKE
S – 120 sts
M – 134 sts
L – 143 sts
XL – 153 sts
XXL – 162 sts
3XL – 176 sts
4XL – 184 sts
5XL – 192 sts
For the next step use st markers to mark the sleeves and body sts.
The first st in the round will be the first st of the BACK.
S – 37 sts for Back and Front, and 23 sts for sleeves
M – 41 sts for Back and Front, and 24 sts for sleeves
L – 45 sts Back, 46 sts Front, and 26 sts sleeves
XL – 48 sts for Back,49 sts Front, and 28 sts for sleeves
XXL – 52 sts for Back and Front, and 29 sts for sleeves
3XL – 56 sts for Back and Front, and 32 sts for sleeves
4XL – 57 sts for Back and Front, and 35 sts for sleeves
5XL – 64 sts for Back and Front, and 35 sts for sleeves
R1:SEPARATING ROW: 1csc in next 37 (41, 45, 48, 52, 56, 57, 64) sts, ch 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 7, 7) sts, skip next 23 (24, 26, 28, 29, 32, 35, 35) sts, 1csc in next 37 (41, 46, 49, 52, 56, 57, 64) sts, ch 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 7, 7) sts, and slip stitch into the first csc.
R2: 1csc in next 37 (41, 45, 48, 52, 56, 57, 64) sts, 1sc in next 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 7, 7) sts, 1csc in next 37 (41, 46, 49, 52, 56, 57, 64) sts, 1sc in next 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 7, 7) sts and ss into the first csc.
R3: 1csc in each stitch around.
Rep. R3 until you have in total 25 rounds for the body or until you reach the desired length.
After finishing the body length, move to the RIBBING edge.
SLEEVES
Rejoin yarn at the armpit.
To avoid holes between armpit sts and sleeve sts, work 2csc together.
R1: 1csc in each st around.
Repeat R1 until you have in total 32 (32, 34, 34, 35, 35, 36, 36) rounds or until you reach the desired length.
Fasten off.
After finishing the sleeves’ length, move to the RIBBING edge.
RIBBING EDGE
Work the Ribbing Edge with an 8mm crochet hook, on the bottom hem, sleeves cuffs, and neckline.
For the bottom hem and sleeves cuffs, work the ribbing edge right after finishing the length.
For the neckline, rejoin yarn in one of the sts and follow the pattern below.
Start: ch7 and turn;
R1: 1ss into next 6sts, 1ss into the next 2sts of the edge, turn.
R2: 1ssblo in next 6sts, 1ch and turn
R3: 1ssblo in next 6sts, 1ss into the next 2 sts of the edge.
rep. R2 and R3 until you complete the circumference of the edge.
Join the ends using slip stitches.
TO FINISH
Weave in all looser ends and block to measurements.
You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
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