My Precious Sweater. Free Crochet Pattern
My Precious Sweater was by far my best design ever. This year, this design will turn 5, and for me sounds like a big number, but thinking that a crocheted design lasted in time so well is amazing.
I am beyond happy that I made a second sample using a gorgeous yarn, Alpaka Silk DK by Expression Fiber Arts. I think this yarn makes this design even more “precious.”
I made a few small changes to the initial pattern and will share the new version with you. So many people made this sweater, and if you are new here and want to try to make your own “My Precious Sweater,” you are very welcome.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.
MATERIALS
• Yarn: DK Weight Yarn
• Crochet Hook:
o 4 mm crochet hook
o 3.5 mm crochet hook for
ribbing
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
This pattern requires double crochet, chain stitches, front post, and back post double crochet for ribbing.
The sweater is worked top-down. First, we are working on the yoke. Then we will separate the sleeves from the body of the sweater and work the 3 parts individually.
The sweater has no seams. You will use the needle only to wave in the few ends that you will have after finishing the sweater.
This sweater has an oversized fit with deep yoke depth and wide sleeves.
The pattern is available in 6 sizes, from XSmall to 2X Large, and is written in US terms.
You can purchase The Pattern and Kit, which includes Durable Mohair Yarn, on Yarnsea.com.
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The My Precious Sweater Pattern is available in 6 sizes, from XS to 2XL. The model is 165 cm tall and wears a size Small.
Neckline Width a: 19 cm (19, 19, 21, 21, 22) / 7.5 “ (7.5,7.5, 8.5, 8.5, 9)
Yoke Depth b: 19cm (23, 25, 29, 33, 37) / 7.5” (9, 10, 11.5, 13, 14.5)
Bust Width c: 48cm (52, 58, 64, 69, 75) / 19” (20.5, 23, 25, 27, 29.5)
Sleeve circ. d: 41 cm (47, 53, 59, 65, 70.5) / 16” (18.5, 21, 23, 25.5, 28)
Sleeve length e: 60 cm (60, 64, 70, 76, 81) / 24” (24, 25, 27.5, 30, 32)
Length f: 47cm (52, 57, 63, 69, 74) / 18.5” (20.5, 22.5, 25, 27, 29)
How much yarn do you need?
I used Tawny Port, Alpaca Silk DK. Yarn composition 50% Baby Alpaca, 50% Mulberry Silk. Each hank has 210m / 230 yd.
For each size, you will need approximately in total: 1100 (1260, 1530, 1870, 2220, 2580) meters
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch – chain
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post dc
bpdc – back post dc
Inc – Increase (1dc, 2ch, 1dc ) in the same st or space
Slst – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rounds
** – repeated section.
TENSION
Using a 4 mm crochet hook in dc
17 sts = 10 cm
10 rows = 10 cm
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.
STITCH PATTERN
The main stitch pattern of the My PRecious Sweater design is a combination of double crochet stitches and chains, creating a diamond look pattern.
We use a front post and back post double crochet pattern for the neckline, cuffs, and bottom hem ribbing.
PATTERN NOTES
Work the sweater in the round only on the right side;
Every round of the yoke starts with the right increase of the back panel;
Yoke notes:
Work the first increase in a round (ch5, 1dc) in the same ch / 2ch-sp;
Close each round with an slst into the third ch;
Start each round into the first 2ch-sp; slst into the 2ch-sp before starting the round
Body and sleeves notes:
Work the sleeves and body also in the round, only on the right side;
Ch2 at the beginning of each round; ch2 does not count as a first dc;
Close each round with an slst into the first dc;
When you need to start the pattern with a ch (the pattern asks for 1ch on top of the first st at the previous round), you can start the round into the second st or the last st of the previous round; move into the indicated st with an slst; I suggest to alternate;
For sizes L, XL, and XXL start the yoke with the second (size L and XL) or third round in the pattern (size XXL);
Numbers for sizes S, M, L, XL, and XXL are written between brackets. If not, the pattern applies to all sizes.
INSTRUCTIONS
The increase at the beginning of the round will be written in the pattern below as “Inc,” the same as the other 3 increases. Always work the first increase as 5ch, 1dc in the same space.
Start: ch 108 (108, 108, 116, 116, 124)
Close with an slst to make a circle.
Ribbing
R1: 3ch (count as first dc), 1dc in each st around; slst into the third ch
R2: 3ch (counts as first bpdc), 1fpdc in next st, *1bpdc in next st, 1fpdc in next st; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with slst into the third ch
R3 – R4: Rep. R2
YOKE
R1: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x3 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x2 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R2: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 3 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 2 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R3: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 3 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 2 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R4: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x3 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x2 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R5: *1Inc, 1ch, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x3times, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, Inc, 1ch, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x2times, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R6: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x4 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x3 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R7: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 4 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 3 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R8: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 4 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 3 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R9: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x4 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x3 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R10: *1Inc, 1ch, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x4times, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, Inc, 1ch, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x3times, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R11: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x5 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x4 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R12: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 5 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 4 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R13: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 5 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 4 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R14: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x5 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x4 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R15: *1Inc, 1ch, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x5times, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, Inc, 1ch, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x4times, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R16:*1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x6 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x5 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R17: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 6 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 5 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R18: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 6 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 5 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R19: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x6 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x5 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
For size XS, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section.
R20: *1Inc, 1ch, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x6 times, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, Inc, 1ch, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x5times, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R21:*1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x7 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x6 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R22: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 7 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 6 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R23: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 7 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 6 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
For size S the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section.
Sizes M, L, XL, XXL only
R24: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 7 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x6 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R25: *1Inc, 1ch, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x7 times, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, Inc, 1ch, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x6times, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
For size M the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section.
Sizes L, XL, XXL only
R26:*1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x8 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x7 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R27: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 8 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 7 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R28: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 8 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 7 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R29: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 8 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x7 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R30: *1Inc, 1ch, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x8 times, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, Inc, 1ch, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x7times, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
For size L the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section.
Sizes XL, XXL only
R31:*1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x9 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x8 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R32: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 9 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 8 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R33: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 9 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 8 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R34: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 9 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x8 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
For size XL the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section.
R35: *1Inc, 1ch, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x9 times, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, Inc, 1ch, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x8times, 1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R36:*1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x10 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x9 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R37: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 10 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 7sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next, 1ch, skip 1st) x 9 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R38: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 10 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 9 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
R39: *1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x 10 times, 1Inc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, (1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st) x9 times*; Rep. from * to * one more time to complete the round.
For size 2XL, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.
BODY
Work the sleeves and body also in the round, only on the right side;
Ch2 at the beginning of each round; ch2 does not count as a first dc;
Close each round with an slst into the first dc;
When you need to start the pattern with a ch (the pattern asks for 1ch on top of the first st at the previous round), you can start the round into the second st or the last st of the previous round; move into the indicated st with an slst; I suggest to alternate;
Separating round Size XS
Start the separating round form where your yarn is, into the right increase of the back panel.
2ch, 1dc in the 2ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in the next 7sts, *1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 7sts, *; rep. from *to* until you get to the next 2ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch9, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc into the next 7sts, *1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 7sts; *rep. from *to* until you get to the next 2ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch9, skip the sleeve sts, and slst into the first dc.
Separating round Size S,
Start the separating round form where your yarn is, into the right increase of the back panel.
2ch, 1dc in the 2ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in the next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, *1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st*; rep. from *to* until you get to the next 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch11, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc into the next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st, *1dc in next 3sts, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 5sts, 1ch, skip 1st*; rep. from *to* until you get to the next 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch11, skip the sleeve sts and slst into the first dc.
Separating round Size M, L
Start the separating round form where your yarn is, into the right increase of the back panel.
2ch, 1dc in the 2ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st, *1dc in next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st*; rep. from *to* until you get to the next 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch17, skip the sleeves sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st, *1dc into the next 9sts, 1ch, skip 1st*; rep. from *to* until you get to the next 2ch-sp, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch17 skip the sleeve sts and slst into the first dc.
Separating round Size XL, 2XL
Start the separating round form where your yarn is, into the right increase of the back panel.
2ch, 1dc in the 2ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in the next 7sts, *1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 7sts, *; rep. from *to* until you get to the next 2ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch19, skip the sleeve sts, 1dc into the next 2ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc into the next 7sts, *1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in next 7sts; *rep. from *to* until you get to the next 2ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc into the 2ch-sp, ch19, skip the sleeve sts, and slst into the first dc.
Continuing the BODY
For all sizes
Continue into the established pattern until you reach the desired length or have 21 rounds.
Last round before ribbing:
2ch, 1dc inthe same st, 1dc in next 7sts, dc2tog, *1dc in next 8sts, dc2tog. *rep. until the end of the round.
Next: Repeat R2 of the Ribbing pattern.
SLEEVES
Rejoin the yarn at the armpit. The first round of the sleeve will mirror the pattern established in the separating round of the body. Ensure continuity in the stitch pattern as you work the stitches at the armpit.
When transitioning over the body side row where the sleeve meets the body, ensure the pattern maintains continuity.
If you wish to taper the sleeves, follow these steps to calculate the necessary decreases:
Step 1: Complete the first round of the sleeve and record the number of stitches.
Step 2: Measure the sleeve’s length and convert it into rows based on your gauge.
Step 3: Measure the desired sleeve circumference before the cuff (consider measuring the forearm) and convert it into stitches based on your gauge.
Step 4: Calculate the number of stitches to decrease (stitches after the first round minus stitches before the cuff).
Step 5: Determine the number of decrease rounds required: Since we’ll be decreasing by 2 stitches per round (1 at the beginning and 1 at the end), divide the total number of stitches to be decreased by 2.
Step 6: Calculate the number of rounds within a decrease pattern repeat: Total number of rows divided by the number of decrease rounds.
For example, if you need to work for a length of 30 rounds and you have 10 decrease rounds to make, the calculation would be as follows: 30 rounds / 10 decrease rounds = 3 rounds per decrease pattern. This indicates that every 3rd round will be a decrease round.
The notes for the body apply to the sleeves as well:
Work the sleeves and body also in the round, only on the right side;
Ch2 at the beginning of each round; ch2 does not count as a first dc;
Close each round with an slst into the first dc;
When you need to start the pattern with a ch (the pattern asks for 1ch on top of the first st at the previous round), you can start the round into the second st or the last st of the previous round; move into the indicated st with an slst; I suggest to alternate;
Continue into the established pattern until you reach the desired length or have 27 rounds.
Last round before ribbing:
2ch, dc2tog until the end of the round.
Next: Repeat R2 of the Ribbing pattern.
TO FINISH
Weave in all loose ends and block to measurements.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also.
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)