Levanda Shirt
It’s time to add one more Spring – Summer crocheted garment to our wardrobe: the Levanda Shirt. I already did mine and I’m about to share with you this wonderful pattern.
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I just love shirts and it’s been a while since I wanted to make a crocheted one. They are so simple to wear, even if you want a more office outfit or a casual one. And of course has to be off shoulders. Don’t know why, but this off the shoulders shape is on my favorites this season, so maybe you will see most of my patterns this way.
You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download pdf version of this pattern here:
Can’t tell you how happy I am with this Levanda Shirt. Was one of the project that didn’t get me into trouble at all and everything worked just perfect. So, let’s see what it’s all about.
About Design
Again, this Levanda Shirt is worked top – down using the Raglan Technique. You already know that I’m a huge fan of top – down sweaters, blouses, tops and so on, so this couldn’t be other way.
We will first work a double brim at the beginning and to make sure that the shirt won’t fall off the shoulders, we will insert an elastic band through it. After making the brim we will start working the yoke, then we will separate the sleeves and we will work the 3 main parts individually.
At the bottom I designed this Levanda Shirt to have a shirt shape. So the bottom is not straight and on the last few rows of the body we will make some decreases and work the front panels and the back panel separately.
The sleeves are a bit larger from the yoke and we will decrease for a few rounds at the beginning, because this time I didn’t want them to be too large. Off course, again the sleeve are 3/4, but if you want you can make them longer just by adding a few more rounds. Also if you want that your Levanda Shirt to be with shirt sleeves you can let the length resulted from the yoke part or simply make less rounds then in the pattern.
Materials you will need
- Yarn
Fingering, Size 1, 4 ply, Super Fine Yarn
I used Cotton Kings Cone 500 from Hobbii. Is the same beautiful cotton yarn as Cotton Kings 8/4 only that it comes in a 500 grams cone, which is awesome because in this way you will have less knots in your project.
- Crochet Hook
3.5 mm ( size E) crochet hook
- Some stitch markers
- an elastic band ( has to measure with 1 – 2 cm less then you shoulder circumference )
- Tapestry niddle
- Scissors
Final measurements
This pattern is available in 5 sizes, from Small to 2X Large and is written in US terms. Final Measurements are listed in the diagram below:
How much Yarn do you need:
- S – 320 grams / 1088 m (1 cone or 7 skeins of 50 grams and 170 m)
- M – 350 grams / 1190 m ( 1 cone or 7 skeins)
- L – 390 grams /1326 m / (1 cone or 8 skeins)
- XL – 410 grams / 1400 m (1 cone or 9 skeins)
- XXL – 430 grams /1460 m (1 cone or 9 skeins)
About the stitch pattern
We will use 2 simple sts for this Levanda Shirt: single crochet for the brim and V Stitch for the rest of the shirt.
V stitch
1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the same stitch or ch 1 space of the previous round V st. If you are working the V stitch into a chain, skip 2 sts between the V’s.
Abbreviations used in this pattern
- ch – chain
- sc -single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- V st – V stitch
- sl st – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch (es)
- Inc C – increase corner ( 1 V st, ch 2, 1 V st in the same st/ch 1 space)
Gauge
- 20 sc = 10 cm (4″)
- 7 V sts = 10 cm (4″)
- 10 rows in V st = 10 cm (4″)
You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download pdf version of this pattern here:
And I think we are done with all details and we can start.
First, foundation chain:
- S – 185 sts
- M – 203 sts
- L – 221 sts
- XL – 239 st
Brim
Row 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each st to the end of the row, ch 1 and turn
Row 2: 1 sc in each st to the end of the row
Rows 3 to 8: Repeat row 2
Row 9
Fold the piece in half, and you will work this row imaking one single crochet in each st, but inserting the hook through both sides.
Yoke
Use 4 stitch markers to mark the 4 corners and the sides of the shirt: back, front and sleeves.
- S – 29 sts for the front panels, 32 sts for sleeves and 59 sts for back panel
- M – 32 sts for the front panels, 35 sts for sleeves and 65 sts for back panel
- L – 35 sts for the front panels, 38 sts for sleeves and 71 sts for back panel
- XL – 38 sts for the front panels, 41 sts for sleeves and 77 sts for back panel
- XXL – 41 sts for the front panels, 44 sts for sleeves and 83 sts for back panel
Starting with the yoke we we will make the V st. The pattern for the yoke is a 2 rows repeat and you can follow the stitch chart below:
Row 1
*the numbers for the sizes Medium, Large, 1X large and 2 X Large are between brackets.
Ch 2, skip 1 st, [1 V st in next, skip 2 sts]. Repeat the section between [ ] until you have 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) V sts, skip the next 2 sts, 1 inc C in next (1 v st, ch 2, 1 V st in the same st). Skip next 2 [1 V st in next, skip 2 sts]. Repeat the section between [ ] until you have 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) V sts. Skip next 2, 1 inc C in next, skip next 2 sts, [1 V st, skip2 sts] until you have 19 (21, 23, 25, 27) V sts, skip 2, 1 inc C in next, skip 2 sts, [1 V st in next, skip 2 sts]. Repeat the section between [ ] until you have 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) V sts. Skip the next 2, [ 1 V st in next, skip 2] until you have 9 (10, 11, 12, 13), skip 1 st, 1 dc in the last. Ch 2 and turn.
Ch 2 at the beginning of the round count as a first dc.
Row 2
Starting with row 2, we will make the V sts in the ch 1 space of the previous row V st. So, when the pattern says “next st” that means in the next ch 1 space of the previous row V st.
1 V st in the next st, repeat until corner, in the ch 2 space from the corner make 1 V st. Repeat to the end of the row, ending the row with 1 dc in the 2nd st of the starting chain. Ch 2 and turn.
Row 3
1 V st in each st until the V st made on into the ch 2 space on the previous row. In this stitch make 1 inc C. Repeat to the end of the row, ending the row with 1 dc in the 2nd st of the starting ch.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you will finish the yoke and have in total:
- S – 11 rows
- M – 12 rows
- L – 13 Rows
- XL – 15 Rows
- XXL – 16 rows
Body
First row of the body will be the separating row. We will separate the sleeves from the body of the Levanda Shirt.
Row 1
Start the row as usual, Working 1 V st in each st until getting to the corner, in the corner make 1 V st, ch 14, skip the sts for the sleeves, make 1 V st into the next corner. Continue making 1 V st in each st until you get to the opposite sleeve and proceed the same. Finish the row working 1 V st in each st and 1 dc in the 2nd st of the starting ch. Ch 2 and turn.
Row 2
1 V st in each st until the armpit ch, skip 2 ch sts, [1 V st in next, skip 2] 4 times. Continue with 1 V st in each st until you get to the next armpit ch and proceed the same as in the opposite side. Continue with 1 V st in each st to the end of the row. 1 dc in the 2nd st of the starting ch, ch 2 and turn.
Row 3
1 V st in each st to the end of the row. Finish the row as usual with 1 dc in the second st of the starting ch. Ch 2 and turn.
Rows 4 – 33: Repeat row 3.
If you want a shorter or longer shirt, here you can adjust the length, by making less or more rows.
Bottom body
After making the 33 rows we will shape a bit the bottom of the shirt and making some decreases. If you want you can skip this part and let the bottom of the shirt straight. If you need more length, repeat row 3 few more times.
Use 2 st markers to mark and separate the front panel from the back panel, because we will work the 3 parts individually.
The both 2 front panels are worked in the same way. Only that you will start the right front panel from the straight edge, and the left front panel, from the side, where you put the stitch marker.
When you are starting from the side, you will start with a decrease. Join the yarn into the the V st marked, ch 3, and 1 V st in next. Continue with 1 V st in each st, until the end of the row. 1 dc in the 2nd st of the starting ch.
When you are starting from the straight edge, start the row as usual, work 1 V st in each st and in the last one, the marked one make just 1 dc.
Below you can find the stitch chart for the bottom part of the front panels
Right front panel
Row 1
Ch 2, 1 V st in each st until you get to the marked stitch, 1 dc in the last V st or the marked one.
Row 2
Ch 3, 1 dc in the next V st, 1 V st in each st to the end of the row. 1 dc in the 2nd st of the starting chain.
Row 3
Ch 2, 1 V st in each st until you get to the last one, 1 partial dc in the last V st, 1 partial dc in the 3rd st of the starting chain. yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on your hook.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have 8 rows.
Left Front Panel
Row 1
Start the row in the marked stitch, ch 3, 1 V st in each stitch to the end of the row. 1 dc in the 2nd st of the starting chain
Row 2
Ch 2, 1 V st in each st until you get to the last V st, 1 partial dc into the last V st, 1 partial dc into the 3rd st of the starting chain. Yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on your hook.
Row 3
Ch 3, 1 dc in the next V st, 1 V st in each stitch to the end of the row, 1 dc in the 2nd st of the starting chain.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have 8 rows.
Back panel
We will work the back panel following the stitch chart below:
Row 1
Ch 3, 1 V st in each st until you get to the last one, 1 dc in the last V st.
Row 2
Ch 3, 1 dc in the next V st, 1 V st in each st until you get to the last one. In the last V st make 1 partial dc, 1 more partial dc in the 3rd st of the starting chain. Yarn over and pull the yarn through all loops on your hook.
Repeat row 2 until you have 10 rows in total. The back panel will be longer then the front panels.
We will have to add to the body a border in single crochet but after we will make the border on the edges of the front panels. We will move forward to the sleeves and we will come back for the border.
Sleeves
We will work the sleeves in rounds, only on the right side.
We will join the yarn at the armpit
Round 1
Ch 4, 1 dc in the same st, 1 V st in each st to the end of the round.
Starting with round 2 we will start to decrease. We will work the rounds with decreases following the stitch chart below:
Round 2
Ch 3, skip the 1st V st, 1 V st in next. 1 V st in each st until you get to the last V st. 1 dc in the last V st and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting ch.
Round 3
Ch 3, 1 V st in each st around. Join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting chain.
Round 4
Sl st to the ch 1 space of the next V st. Ch 4, 1 dc in the same space. 1 V st in each stitch to the end of the round. Sl st with the 3rd st of the starting ch.
Round 5
Repeat round 4. (you will have now to slip only one st)
Next, repeat rounds 2 to 5 3 more times until you have in total 13 rounds.
Continue then 10 more rounds without decreasing (repeating basically the last made round), If you want a longer sleeve you can adjust the length by making more then 10 rounds.
After finishing decreasing, if you consider that the sleeve is still large you can repeat the 4 rounds one more time or as many time as you need. Also you can repeat the 4 rounds less times if you want a larger sleeve.
After finishing the length of the sleeve we will add a few more rounds in single crochet.
I made 5 rounds.
Round 1: 1 sc in each st around
Round 2: 1 sc in the first st, [1 dec in next 2 (2 single crochet worked together), 1 sc in next 3 sts.]. Repeat the section to the end of the round.
Round 3: Repeat round 2
Rounds 4 and 5: Repeat round 1.
And one sleeve is done. Repeat the pattern for the other sleeve.
Next, we will have to make the margins of the front panels, but first we will insert an elastic band through the top border. Use a safety pin to make it easy.
After you inserted the elastic band, sew the ends of the elastic band to make sure it will stay in place.
We will work for the front panels margins 5 rows in sc. On the left side we will let some button holes. I made the button holes by ch 2, skip 2, at every 8 sts on the row 3.
After making the front panels margins we will work 5 rows in single crochet on the bottom of the body too.
Starting with the second round, the 3 sts that are in vale will be worked together.
And done. The Levanda shirt is ready to be worn and I truly will love to see all your make. Please try to make it, besides of how long this pattern might look, it’s not that difficult, only that I tried as usual to give you as many details as possible.
You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download pdf version of this pattern here:
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)
