Flower Buds Top. Crochet Pattern
Well, the Flower Buds Top is finally here. I started this project a long time ago, but it was that kind of project, that was a pleasure to work on, but it wasn’t a pleasure to write the pattern. or at least this is what I was thinking at first and I tried to push this part of the job as later as I could. ????
I love this top so much and I had in mind a top with a round yoke since last year and I am happy that I can finally share with you this design.
The V stitch is one of my favorites, but what usually happens when I am working on a project now and then, is that I change my mind constantly regarding the stitches I want to use. That’s why I included in the design Popcorn stitches as well for a bit of texture and so the making process not to be too boring. But, you can easily use only V stitches, or why not only Popcorn stitches using the same pattern.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
I hope you will enjoy this project and I am excited to see your color versions.
Let’s see what we will need and how to make this top.
MATERIALS
- Yarn: fingering weight cotton
- Crochet Hook: 4 mm crochet hook
- You will need a yarn needle for weave in ends
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
- Elastic band
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
The Flower Buds Top has a top-down construction with a round yoke.
This pattern requires double crochet, chain stitches, single crochet stitches, popcorn stitches, and working in the round.
It’s an oversized top with a positive ease of about 22 cm around the bust circumference.
The design alternates rounds in V stitches and rounds in Popcorn stitches.
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

Neckline a: 23 cm (24, 24, 25, 26, 26)
Bust Width b: 54 cm (59, 63, 69, 74, 79)
Yoke depth c: 20 cm (21, 23, 24, 25, 26)
Sleeve Circ. d: 54 cm (58, 64, 72, 82, 88)
Length e: 45 cm (46, 48, 49, 50, 51, 53, 54)
The pattern is written in sizes S, M, L, XL, XXL, and 3XL
How much Yarn do you need?
I used the Hobbii Rainbow Mercerised Cotton. Each skein has 50 grams and 170 meters
For each size, you will need:
| Hobbii Rainbow | S | M | L | XL | XXL | 3XL |
| 50g/170m | 6 | 8 | 9 | 9 | 10 | 11 |
| Green | 5 | 6 | 7 | 7 | 8 | 9 |
| Coral | 1 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES
This Flower Buds Top design is worked in V stitch and Popcorn Stitch
The top is worked in the round.
V stitch
*(1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in the same stitch or 1ch-sp, 1ch, skip next 3sts or next 1ch-sp. * rep. until the end of the round.
Popcorn Stitch
5dc in the same stitch or 1ch-sp, pull out the hook; insert the hook into the first dc and then back into the working loop; pass the loop through the first dc.
Popcorn st at the beginning of the round
3ch, 4dc I the same st or ch-sp, pull out the hook; insert the hook into the third ch and then back into the working loop; pass the loop through the first dc.
*for this specific design, work the popcorn stitch into the 1ch-ap of the previous round V stitch. Work 3ch between the popcorn stitches.
ABBREVIATIONS
- Ch – chain
- Sc – single crochet
- Dc – double crochet
- Vst – V Stitch; (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in the same st or 1ch-sp. 1ch
- Pop – Popcorn stitch
- Inc – Icrease: (1Vst, 1ch, 1Vst) in the same 1ch-sp
- Slst – slip stitch
- St(s) – stitch(es)
- R – rounds
- Ch-sp – chain space
- ** – repeated section.
TENSION (GAUGE)
Using a 4 mm crochet hook
5.5 Vst = 10 cm
9 rows in Vst = 10 cm

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
NOTES
Each round starts in the first 1ch-sp; make 2slip stitches to get to the starting point.
Make 3ch at the beginning of each round. 3ch counts as the first double crochet.
Close each round with a slip stitch in the third stitch of the starting chain.
Work 1ch st the beginning of every single crochet round. 1ch does not count as the first single crochet.
In the written pattern below, every Vst will be considered one st. When is written 1Vst in the next st, work the Vst into the 1ch-sp of the next Vst
Always work one chain after a Vst and skip 1ch-sp unless the pattern specifies otherwise.
Always work the first Vst in a round (4ch, 1dc) in the same space.
When working a Vst round, over a pop round, work the Vst into the pop stitches.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
INSTRUCTIONS
YOKE
Numbers for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, and 3XL are written between brackets.
Start: work 100 (100, 100, 108, 112, 112) ch stitches. Close with an sl st into the first ch to make a circle.
R1: ( 4ch, 1dc) in the same st, 1ch, skip the next 3 sts, *1Vt in next st, 1ch, skip next 3 sts. *rep. until the end of the round. Close the round with an sl st into the third chain. (25, 25, 25, 27, 28, 28 Vst)
R2: *1Inc, 4Vsts (1Inc, 4Vsts; 1Inc, 4Vsts; 1Inc, 2Vsts; 1Inc 3Vsts; 1Inc, 3Vsts). *rep until the end of the round. (30, 30, 30, 36, 35, 35 Vsts)
R3: 1Vst in each Vst (30, 30, 30, 36, 35, 35 Vsts)
R4: *1Inc, 2Vsts (1Inc, 2Vsts; 1Inc, 2Vsts; 1Inc, 2Vsts; 1Inc 4Vsts; 1Inc, 4Vsts). *rep until the end of the round (40, 40, 40, 48, 42, 42 Vsts)
R5: Rep. R3 (40, 40, 40, 48, 42, 42 Vsts)
R6: *1Inc, 3Vsts (1Inc, 3Vsts; 1Inc, 3Vsts; 1Inc, 2Vsts; 1Inc 1Vsts; 1Inc, 1Vsts). *rep until the end of the round (50, 50, 50, 64, 63, 63 Vsts)
R7: Rep. R3 (50, 50, 50, 64, 63, 63 Vsts)
R8: *1Inc, 4Vsts (1Inc, 4Vsts; 1Inc, 4Vsts; 1Inc, 7Vsts; 1Inc, 6Vsts; 1Inc, 6Vsts). *rep until the end of the round (60, 60, 60, 72, 72, 72 Vsts)
R9: Rep. R3 (60, 60, 60, 72, 72, 72 Vsts)
R10: *1Inc, 5Vsts (1Inc, 5Vsts; 1Inc, 5Vsts; 1Inc, 8Vsts; 1Inc, 5Vsts; 1Inc, 5Vsts). *rep until the end of the round (70, 70, 70, 80, 84, 84 Vsts)
R11: 1Pop in the first Vst, 3ch, skip the next 1ch- sp, *1Pop in the next Vst, 3ch, skip the next 1ch-sp. *rep. until the end of the round. Close the round with sl st into the first pop. (70, 70, 70, 80, 84, 84 pop sts)
R12: *1Inc, 6Vsts (1Inc, 6Vsts; 1Inc, 6Vsts; 1Inc, 7Vsts; 1Inc, 6Vsts; 1Inc, 6Vsts). *rep until the end of the round (80, 80, 80, 90,96, 96 Vsts)
R13: rep. R11 (80, 80, 80, 90,96, 96 pop sts)
R14: *1Inc, 7Vsts (1Inc, 7Vsts; 1Inc, 7Vsts; 1Inc, 8Vsts; 1Inc, 7Vsts; 1Inc, 7Vsts). *rep until the end of the round (90, 90, 80, 100,108, 108 Vst)
R15: rep. R11 (90, 90, 80, 100,108, 108 Pop. sts)
Size S only
R16 – R18: Rep. R3 (1Vst in each Vst).
Move to the Body Section.
*first size M. Between the () sizes L, XL, XXL, and 3XL
R16: *1Inc, 17Vsts (1Inc, 8Vsts; 1Inc, 9Vsts; 1Inc, 8Vsts; 1Inc, 8Vsts). *rep until the end of the round. 95, 100, 110, 120, 120 Vst)
R17: Rep. R3 (95, 100, 110, 120, 120 Vst)
Only for Size M
R18 – R19: Rep. R3
*first size L. Between the () sizes XL, XXL, and 3XL
R18: *1Inc, 19Vsts (1Inc, 21Vsts; 1Inc, 14Vsts; 1Inc, 9Vsts). *rep. until the end of the round. (105, 115, 128, 132 Vst.)
R19: Rep. R3 (105, 115, 128, 132 Vst.)
Only for sizes L, XL, XXL
R20: Rep. R3 (105, 115, 128 Vst). Change to Coral (optional)
R21: Rep. R11 (Popcorn stitch round) – 105, 115, 128 Pop. Change to Green
Only for size XL, XXL
R22: Rep. R3. (115, 128 Vst)
Only for size XXL
R23: In coral: Rep. R11. (128 Vst)
Only for Size 3XL
R20: 1Inc, 65Vsts. Rep 2 times until the end of the round. (134 sts)
R21: Rep. R11 (Popcorn stitch round) – 134 Pop. Change to Green
R22: Rep. R3. (134 Vst) change to Coral
R23: In coral: Rep. R11. (134 Vst)

BODY
Use stitch markers to mark the 4 sections of the yoke (front, back, and sleeves)
Front and back: 30 (32, 35, 38, 41, 43) Vst or Pop sts
Sleeves: 15 (16, 18, 20, 23, 24) Vst or Pop sts each.
R1: Separating round
*for size XL the separating round will be in Popcorn sts.
Work either Vst or Pop according to your size:
St = Vst or Pop st
1 st in next 30 (32, 35, 38, 41, 43) sts, skip the next
15 (16, 18, 20, 23, 24) sts (sleeve sts), 1 st in next 30 (32, 35, 38, 41, 43) sts, skip next 15 (16, 18, 20, 23, 24) sts (sleeve sts), and close the round with a sl st into the third chain.
Next, continue alternating Vst rounds with Pop stitches rounds until you complete the desired length.
This specific pattern (according to the measurements) requires to work 19 more rounds, after the separating round for the body section.
Next, you will find the instruction for the pattern of the body section, which are the Vst rounds and Pop stitches round.
You can adjust this pattern as you wish.
Size S:
R2: Vst round Change to Coral
R3: Pop st round Change to Green
R4: Vst round Change to Coral
R5: pop st round Change to Green.
R6 – R10: Vst round
R11: Pop st round
R12: Vst round
R13: Pop st round
R14: Vst round
R15: Pop st round
R16 – R20: Vst round
Size M
R2: in coral: Pop st round Change to Green
R3: Vst round Change to Coral
R4: pop st round Change to Green.
R5 – R9: Vst round
R10: Pop st round
R11: Vst round
R12: Pop st round
R13: Vst round
R14: Pop st round
R15 – R20: Vst round
Size L
R2: in coral: pop st round Change to Green.
R3 – R7: Vst round
R8: Pop st round
R9: Vst round
R10: Pop st round
R11: Vst round
R12: Pop st round
R13 – R17: Vst round
R18: Pop st round
R19: Vst round
R20: Pop st round
Size XL
R2 – R6: Vst round
R7: Pop st round
R8: Vst round
R9: Pop st round
R10: Vst round
R11: Pop st round
R12 – R16: Vst round
R17: Pop st round
R18: Vst round
R19: Pop st round
R20: Vst round
Size XXL, 3XL
R2 – R5: Vst round
R6: Pop st round
R7: Vst round
R8: Pop st round
R9: Vst round
R10: Pop st round
R11 – R15: Vst round
R16: Pop st round
R17: Vst round
R18: Pop st round
R19: Vst round
R20: Pop st round
EDGING
Work the edging around the neckline, sleeves, and bottom hem.
Use a smaller hook size (3.5 mm)
R1: (1ch, 1sc) in the same st, 1sc in each st around (ch stitch or dc). Close the round with a sl st into the first sc.
R2 – R4: Rep. R1.
Optional for the bottom hem edging, add an elastic band.
Measure the elastic band to have 3-4 cm less than the waist circumference. Sew the ends.
R1 – R2: 1sc in each st around.
R3: insert the elastic band: work the sc crochet stitches around the elastic band.
Insert the hook into the next st, under the elastic band, yarn over, and pull out a loop and bring it in front of the elastic band; Yarn over and finish the sc.
Repeat until you finish the entire round.
R4 – R5: 1sc in each st around.
TO FINISH
Weave in all loose ends and block to measurements.
And done!
A new top to add to your self-made wardrobe.
You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:


![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)

One Comment
Lovely
This is such a beautiful knit! Love the color combo!
xoxo
Lovely
http://www.mynameislovely.com