Be Glam Poncho Blouse – Step by step Instructions for an innovative crochet design!
I was absolutely thrilled when Expression Fiber Arts generously offered to provide me with some of their stunning yarns for a remake of the Be Glam Poncho Blouse. This blouse holds a special place in my heart as I initially designed it in 2019. I used the Be Glam yarn by Durable Yarn in black with silver metallic accents, creating the perfect garment for New Year’s Eve.
As the years have passed, my journey in designing and pattern writing has deepened. I’m now eager to breathe new life into many of my earlier designs, each of which holds sentimental value for me. This creative process allows me to evolve my craft while cherishing the unique stories woven into each piece.
The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
I know you can’t wait to see what you need and how to make the Be Glam Poncho Blouse, so let’s get started.
MATERIALS
• Yarn: DK Weight yarn (Size 3)
• Crochet Hook:
o 4.5 mm crochet hook
o 3.5 mm crochet hook for edges
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
Introducing the Be Glam Poncho Blouse, a crochet design that redefines style and construction. This exquisite poncho blouse is made from two identical panels, thoughtfully designed to complement both the front and back of this fashionable garment.
The innovative pyramid construction is the hallmark of this design, offering a fresh and captivating twist to traditional crochet fashion.
Each panel comprises two distinct sections, each flaunting its own intricate stitch pattern.
The combination of these stitch patterns not only adds visual interest but also enhances the texture and drape of the garment. The play of stitches creates an appealing interplay of light and shadow, making the Be Glam Poncho Blouse a true work of art.
This versatile poncho blouse is suitable for various occasions. Whether paired with jeans for a casual outing or layered over a dress for a formal event, the Be Glam Poncho Blouse effortlessly combines comfort and style.
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
The Be Glam Poncho Blouse Pattern is thoughtfully designed to cater to a wide range of sizes, with options available from Small all the way up to 5 Extra Large. To provide a helpful point of reference, our model stands at 5.5 feet tall and is wearing a size Small
Sleeve a: 51cm (56, 60, 64, 69, 76, 80, 84)
Neckline b: 25 cm (27, 30, 30, 32, 32, 34, 34)
Sleeve c: 41cm (45, 48, 53, 56, 61, 64, 67)
Cuff Width d: 15cm (16, 17, 17, 18, 21, 22, 23)
Bottom Hem Width e: 43cm (48, 53, 58, 63, 68, 73, 78)
YARN
I used Beacon DK by Expression Fiber Arts in color Torrent. Yarn Composition: 25% Baby Camel, 25% Mulberry Silk, 50% Lyocell. Each hank has 228 meters.
How much yarn do you need?
For each size you will need: 3 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) hanks
680 (810, 940, 1040, 1180, 1350, 1490, 1590) meters
The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
Vst – 1dc, 1ch, 1dc into the same st or space
Slst – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rounds
** – repeated section.
TENSION
Using 4.5 mm crochet hook in:
Vst: 4.5 Vsts = 10 cm / 8.5 rows = 10 cm
Dc: 17sts = 10 cm / 7 rows = 8 cm
The Gauge is measured after blocking
STITCH PATTERN
The 2 stitch patterns used for the Be Glam Poncho Blouse are V stitch and double crochet.
For this particular design, the Vst is worked as follows;
Chain a multiple of 4+1 sts
R1: ch3, and start into the 6th ch, 1Vst, *1ch, skip the next 3sts, 1Vst in next; *rep. until you have 2sts left, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in the last st; 4ch and turn
R2: *1Vst in the 1ch-sp of the next Vst, 1ch; *rep to the end of the row, 1dc into the third ch; ch4 and turn;
Rep. R2 until the desired length
CONSTRUCTION
Each panel is divided into two distinctive sections, each showcasing its own stitch pattern. Section 2 is worked continuing Section 1. In this second section, we commence the decreases exclusively at one end. This technique not only lays the foundation for a flawlessly flat and straight bottom for the blouse but also defines and shapes the sleeves.
Furthermore, as you assemble the four openings of the blouse, you have the flexibility to tailor them to your personal preferences. By sewing fewer or more stitches, you can effortlessly customize the fit to suit your individual needs.
INSTRUCTION
PANEL (MAKE 2 FOR BACK AND FRONT)
Pattern Notes:
The panel is worked flat; turn after each row;
The panel construction is out of 2 sections: section 1 in Vsts and section 2 in dc;
3ch at the beggining of a row will count as a first dc.
Start: ch93 (101, 109, 117, 125, 137, 145, 153)
Section 1
R1: ch3, and start into the 6th ch, 1Vst, *1ch, skip the next 3sts, 1Vst in next; *rep. until you have 2sts left, 1ch, skip 1st, 1dc in the last st; 4ch and turn
R2: *1Vst in the 1ch-sp of the next Vst, 1ch; *rep to the end of the row, 1dc into the third ch; ch4 and turn;
Rep. R2 until you have: 28 (30, 32, 32, 34, 34, 36, 36) rows
Section 2
Notes:
– Upon completing the final row of Section 1, work 3ch and turn your work.
– In this section, we will initiate decreases exclusively at one end, which serves the dual purpose of establishing a flat,
straight bottom for the blouse and shaping the sleeve.
– The number of rows required for this section will vary depending on the size you’re making to achieve the desired measurements.
– Starting from the next row, we will begin the decreasing process. Please note that on the row where the decreases occur, the initial chain of 3 (ch3) will not count as your first double crochet (dc). Instead, consider the first double crochet you made at the beginning of the row as your first stitch.
– When it comes to decreasing at the end of a row, follow these steps to work a wide 2 dc together:
– Insert your hook into the next stitch.
– Yarn over and pull up a loop.
– Yarn over again and pass it through 2 loops on your hook.
– Skip the following stitch.
– Insert your hook into the next stitch.
– Yarn over, pull up a loop.
– Yarn over once more and pass it through 2 loops on your hook.
-Finally, yarn over and pass it through all the loops on your hook
Next row:
Start from where your yarn is;
R1: 1dc in each st to the end of the row; ch3 and turn
Total sts: 95 (103, 111, 119, 127, 139, 147, 155)
The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
Next row: ch3 (don’t make it if you already worked ch3 before turning your work), skip the next st, 1dc in next st, 1dc n each st to the end of the row; 3ch and turn
Sts: 93 (101, 109, 117, 125, 137, 145, 153)
Next row: 1dc in each st until you have 3sts left, wide dc2tog (see explanation above); 3ch and turn
Rep. last 2 rows until you have fors Section 2:
36 (39, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56, 59) rows
Notes:
You worked in total 35 (38, 41, 45, 48, 52, 55, 58) rows decreasing at one end. You decreased with 2sts per row and you should have left at the end of Section 2: 25 (27, 29, 29, 31, 35, 37, 39 ) sts
Fasten off. The panel is done. Repeat the pattern one more time for the second panel
ASSEMBLING
To assemble the pieces, follow these steps:
Note: for joining the Vsts pieces I used crochet hook and using chain sts and single crochet I’ve created a lace joining.
You can see the process in the video tutorial here:
Start by sewing together the side edges of section 1.
Next, sew together the side edges of section 2, the edge without decreases. If you wish to adjust the neckline, you have the option to attach a few side rows from the first section at this point as well.
Mark the openings at the bottom and cuffs, then proceed to sew the segments located between the cuffs and the bottom hem together. This step will complete the assembly of your garment
Sts for cuff 1 (on Section 2): 25 (27, 29, 29, 31, 35, 37, 39)
Side rows cuff 2 (on Section 1): 13 (14, 15, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20)
Bottom hem side rows: 29 (32, 36, 39, 43, 46, 49, 53)
EDGING
Notes:
Be sure to add the edging around the cuffs, neckline, and the bottom hem for a polished finish.
We recommend using a 3.5 mm crochet hook for this project.
When working into the side rows, remember to crochet 2 single crochet stitches (2sc) in each side row.
On the neckline, decrease on each side where the sleeves’ seams are, by working 3 single crochet stitches together (3sc together).
Crochet 5 rounds in single crochet (sc) stitches, and complete the final round using slip stitches. If you prefer the last round of slip stitches to be less tight, feel free to switch to a larger hook size for that round.
TO FINISH
Weave in all ends and block to measurements.
I hope you enjoyed this pattern and can’t wait to see yours Be Glam Poncho Blouses.
The PDF version of this pattern includes stitch charts. You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)
