Bat Wings Sweater. Crochet Pattern
I made my first Bat Wings Sweater three years ago, and I wanted to make another one and give this pattern an update for so long. I am glad that I managed to make it finally.
At first, I thought it would be easier because I would need to follow my old pattern and update it with more sizes and maybe some more missing information in the first one.
But the reality was different. Many things changed in three years, including my tension. Even if I decided to use a smaller hook than the first sample, knowing that my tension is a bit looser, I realized that I am getting the gauge for stitches but not for rows.
So basically, I had to write this pattern from scratch, to do the math again and everything. But I am happy that I can share with you a new version.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
And because you asked for it, I included how to adjust the length and calculate side increases in this pattern! So I hope you will find this pattern exciting and make a Bat Wings Sweater because it is beginner-friendly and the result is beautiful. You will love it.
MATERIALS
• Yarn: DK weight yarn (Size 3, light)
• Crochet Hook:
o 4.5 mm crochet hook
• yarn needle for weave in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
The Batwings Sweater is versatile and can be worn with almost everything. It has an oversized fit with shorter sleeves, and it’s perfect to wear when the weather is not that cold and you need a light sweater to put on.
The design is simple. It is worked in one single piece; the back panel is worked continuing the front panel. Easy to assemble; fold the piece in half and stitch the sides.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Bat Wings Sweater Pattern is available in 8 sizes, from small to 5X Large.
The model is 168 cm tall and wears size Small.
Neckline a: 24 cm (24, 24, 24, 24, 26, 26, 26)
Sleeve length b: 41 cm (45, 47, 49,51, 53, 53, 54)
Cuff to cuff c: 107 cm (113, 117, 123, 125, 131, 131, 133)
Bust width d: 50 cm (55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85)
Sleeve width e: 10 cm (13, 13, 16, 16, 19, 19, 19)
*Length to the armhole f: 30 cm (30, 30, 30, 30, 30, 27, 26)
**Length g: 43 cm (46, 46, 49, 49, 52, 52, 52)
*Length to the armhole is smaller for sizes 4XL and 5XL because of the bigger width but smaller length.
** you will find in the pattern instructions on how to make the sweater longer.

How much yarn do you need?
I used:
*Scheepjes Stardust in color Orion (660)
Each ball has 100 grams and approximately 540 meters
This yarn is listed as a DK weight because of the Mohair in composition. But according to the length is more a fingering weight yarn
For each size, you will need:
3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) balls or
1350 (1570, 1620, 1790, 1840, 2000, 2000, 2030) meters
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
Fdc – front post double crochet
Bdc – back post double crochet
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rows
** – repeated section.

You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:
TENSION
Using a 4.5 mm crochet hook in the hdc stitch pattern
15 sts = 10 cm
14 rows = 10cm
STITCH PATTERN
The main stitch pattern used in this design is the half double crochet, except the bottom ribbing, which is worked in Front Post Double Crochet and Back Post Double Crochet.
PATTERN NOTES
Work the piece flat; turn after each row.
Work 2ch before starting a row 2ch does not count as first st.
Work the increases and decreases after the first st and before the last one.
*How to adjust the length:
There are 2 ways to adjust the length of the Batwings Sweater and make it longer.
1. work the extra rows you will need to add in length after the ribbing band and before increasing.
2. This method involves a bit of math but will help you have approximately the same shape for the sweater and not the straight section at the beginning as the first one.
Step 1: check below in the pattern the total number of added stitches (with increases) and the number of increasing rows (rows up to the armhole), according to your size.
Step 2: Calculate how many rows you will need to add to increase the length as desired. Sum up those rows to the number of rows up to the armhole that you find in the pattern.
Step 3: having the number of rows you will need up to the armhole and the number of sts that need to be added, you can calculate how to make the increases.
For example (size Small)
Added sts: 84
Rows to the armhole: 42
If I want to add 10 cm in length, this will mean 14 rows.
Total number of rows up to armhole: 42 + 14 =56
Sts to increase / row: 84 : 56 = 1.5
so we have 1 row – 1.5 sts, which means 2 rows – 3 sts.
We add 2sts/row in the regular pattern, one at the beginning and one at the end.
Because we need 3 sts at every 2 rows, you can make the pattern like this:
R1: 1Inc at the beginning, 1Inc at the end
R2: 1Inc at the beginning only
R3: 1Inc at the beginning (to increase on the other side)
and repeat these 3 rows.
Another pattern that will work (in this particular case)
3sts at every 2rows equals 6sts at every 4 rows.
R1 – R3: inc on both sides
R4: don’t increase at all


INSTRUCTIONS
The pattern is written in sections, but you will have to work in one single piece.
Numbers are written between brackets for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL.
RIBBING
Start: Ch 76 (86, 92, 100, 104, 112, 120, 128) sts
R1: 3ch, 1dc in the second st, 1dc in each st until the end of the row. 3ch and turn.
R2: *1Fdc in next st, 1Bdc in next. *rep. until the end of the row
R3 – R4: Rep. R2 (following the stitch post of the previous row)
Only for sizes 4XL and 5XL.
Work after the ribbing, 4 (6) rows in hdc without increasing.
After these rows, follow the pattern below.
FRONT PANEL
R1:ch2, 1hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st, 1hdc in each of the next sts, except the last 2sts, 2hdc in next st, 1hdc in last st.
Total sts: 78 (88, 94, 102, 106, 114, 122, 130)
Rep. R1 until you have in total 42 *rows
*on sizes 4XL and 5XL, you will have 42 rows counting the 4 (6) rows made after ribbing as well.
Total number of sts: 160 (170, 176, 184, 188, 196, 196, 200)
Number of added sts: 84 (84, 84, 84, 84, 84, 76, 72)
ARMHOLE
R43: ch2, 1hdc in each st until the end of the row.
Rep. R43 until you have in total 56 (60, 60, 64, 64, 69, 69, 69) rows, meaning 14 (18, 18, 22, 22, 27, 27, 27) rows for the armhole.
NECKLINE
Next row: 2ch, 1hdc in next 62 (67, 70, 74, 76, 79, 79, 81) sts, ch 36 (36, 36, 36, 36, 38, 38, 38) sts, skip 36 (36, 36, 36, 36, 38, 38, 38) sts, 1hdc in last 62 (67, 70, 74, 76, 79, 79, 81) sts
BACK PANEL
Back Panel is worked, continuing the front panel, reverse.
R1: 2ch, 1hdc in each st until the end of the row.
Rep, R1 until you have 14 (18, 18, 22, 22, 27, 27, 27) rows.
Next row: 2ch, 1hdc in first st, hdc2tog in next 2sts, 1hdc in next sts, except the last 3sts, hdc2tog, 1hdc in last st.
Total number of sts: 158 (168, 174, 182, 186, 194, 194, 198)
Rep. previous row until you have in total for the back panel only 56 (60, 60, 64, 64, 69, 65, 63) rows.
Total sts: 76 (86, 92, 100, 104, 112, 120, 128)
Only for sizes 4XL and 5XL
Work 4 (6) more rows without decreasing.
RIBBING
Rep. the ribbing pattern of the Front Panel
Fasten off.
You can let a long tail (1 – 1.5 meters) for stitching.
ASSEMBLING
Step 1: Fold the piece in half, front panel over the back panel
Step 2: stitch the side edges (from the cuff to the bottom or reverse)

TO FINISH
Weave in all loose ends and block to measurements
And done! Enjoy your new sweater ????
You can Purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here:


![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)


One Comment
Kay
This sweater is stunning but I LOVE your hair too just beautiful
Kay