Aria Sweater Crochet Pattern – Top-Down Cable Sweater with Round Yoke and Anatomical Neckline
The Aria Sweater is a timeless, textured crochet design featuring a beautiful round yoke construction and elegant cable stitch pattern. Worked from the top down, it combines structure and comfort, creating a perfectly balanced garment that’s both stylish and wearable.
This design also features an anatomical neckline, shaped with short rows that blend seamlessly into the stitch pattern for a flattering and comfortable fit. The closer silhouette makes it easy to dress up for the office or wear casually with your favorite jeans.
In this post, you’ll find the written pattern, detailed sizing information, and helpful tips to guide you through every step. Whether you’re following along with the video tutorials or crocheting straight from the written instructions, this project will help you create a beautiful, handmade sweater you’ll love to wear.
💾 Prefer the Printable PDF Version?
If you’d like to support my work and enjoy a beautifully formatted, ad-free version of this pattern that you can download and print, the Aria Sweater PDF is available in my shops:
MATERIALS
- Yarn: Size 1 , Super Fine, Fingering weight yarn
- Crochet Hook:
o 4 mm crochet hook
o 3.5 mm crochet hook for neckline and cuffs’ ribbing - yarn needle for weaving in ends
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
This Aria Sweater is worked top-down with a round yoke construction and a beautifully textured cable stitch pattern that continues seamlessly throughout the piece. The design features an anatomical neckline, shaped with short rows that blend naturally into the stitch pattern for a clean and refined look.
The sweater is designed with a closer fit for a flattering silhouette that follows the body without feeling restrictive. Its versatile style makes it a timeless and wearable piece — perfect for everyday outfits, yet elegant enough for the office or more dressed-up occasions.
Worked seamlessly from the top down, the pattern allows for easy customization of length and sleeve fit, so you can adjust it to your own style and comfort preferences.
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
Because of the structured cable stitch pattern, this design does not strictly follow standard size charts. The nature of the stitch pattern creates certain limitations in achieving precise measurements. However, the pattern is available in six sizes.
For reference, the model is 168 cm tall, has a bust circumference of 88 cm, and is wearing size 1.
Final Measurements of the Aria Sweater
*Neck Circ. a: 49 cm (55, 55, 55, 63, 71, 71)
Yoke Depth b: 15 cm (16, 17, 19, 20, 22)
Bust Circ. c: 94 cm (108, 115, 122, 136, 144)
**Sleeve length. d: 40cm (42, 44, 44, 46, 46)
Sleeve circ. e: 36 cm (40, 43, 47, 50, 54)Length f: 46 cm (48, 51, 53, 55, 57)
Measurements in Inches
Neck Circ. (a): 19.25” (21.75”, 21.75”, 21.75”, 24.75”, 28”, 28”)
Yoke Depth (b): 6” (6.25”, 6.75”, 7.5”, 7.75”, 8.75”)
Bust Circ. (c): 37” (42.5”, 45.25”, 48”, 53.5”, 56.75”)
Sleeve Length (d): 15.75” (16.5”, 17.25”, 17.25”, 18”, 18”)
Sleeve Circ. (e): 14.25” (15.75”, 17”, 18.5”, 19.75”, 21.25”)
Length (f): 18” (19”, 20”, 21”, 21.75”, 22.5”)
YARN
For the Aria Sweater I used Baby Wool by Hobbii Yarn in color Cedar (31). Each ball has 50 g (1.75oz) and 165 m (180yds). Yarn composition 100% wool.
For each size you will approximately need: 1690 (2020, 2290, 2520, 2890, 3170) meters
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
Fptr – front post triple crochet
Cable – *see the Stitch Pattern and Techniques Section
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – row
** – repeated section.
TENSION
Using 4 mm in the cable stitch pattern, the last pattern repeat (1cable, 3dc)
before blocking
5patt repeats (1cable, 3dc) = 18 cm
*9 rows = 10 cm
*When counting rows, count only the double crochet (cable) rows, which are the right-side rows.
Each “row” in the pattern refers to one right-side (cable) row plus the following wrong-side (single crochet) row.
STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES
The Aria Sweater has a top-down construction featuring a round yoke pattern. The design features an anatomical neckline, shaped with short rows that blend naturally into the stitch pattern for a clean and refined look.
CABLE STITCH PATTERN VARIATION
The stitch pattern used for the Aria Sweater is a variation of a classic cable stitch pattern.
In this design, the number of stitches between the cables increases gradually as the yoke is shaped. The final stitch repeat becomes 3 dc, 1 cable.
In other projects, you can easily adjust the stitch pattern by working more or fewer stitches between the cables, depending on the desired look and texture.
For this design, the gauge swatch is based on the final stitch repeat (3 dc, 1 cable), even though the sweater begins with a slightly different repeat.
Pattern (use for gauge swatch)
Ch a multiple of 6 + 3
Row 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a dc), starting in the 3rd ch from the hook, 1 dc in each st across; ch 1 and turn.
Row 2: 1 sc in each st across; ch 2 and turn.
Row 3: 1 dc in each of the first 3 sts, work 1 cable as follows: skip the next st, (1 fptr around the next dc, 1 row below) twice, 1 fptr crossed over the previous 2 fptr around the skipped dc, 1 row below; 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts; repeat from * to * to end of row; ch 1 and turn.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
From Row 5 onward, work the cable stitches around the posts of the cable stitches from the previous cable row.
Row 5: 1 dc in each of the first 3 sts, work 1 cable as follows: skip the first fptr, 1 fptr around the middle fptr of the cable from the previous row, 1 fptr around the third fptr of that cable, 1 fptr crossed over the previous 2 fptr around the skipped fptr; 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts; repeat from * to * to end of row.
NOTES AND ADJUSTMENTS
Due to the stitch pattern used in the Aria Sweater, it was necessary to increase the number of neckline stitches for the larger sizes.
In the Measurements section, the listed numbers are calculated based on the stitch and row counts for each size. However, the actual neckline circumference may appear smaller after working the ribbing. This is normal, as both the main stitch pattern and the ribbing have natural stretch.
For example, in the smallest size (Size 1 — the sample shown), the neckline stretches up to approximately 60 cm, allowing it to fit comfortably over the head. In larger sizes, the opposite may occur — the neckline might feel slightly wider than desired.
If you prefer a closer neckline on the larger sizes, you can adjust the circumference by working a few decreases evenly around the first round of ribbing. Alternatively, switching to a smaller hook size for the ribbing will also help create a narrower neckline.
Below you can see a photo comparing the neckline of the largest size with that of the smallest size.
💾 Prefer the Printable PDF Version?
If you’d like to support my work and enjoy a beautifully formatted, ad-free version of this pattern that you can download and print, the Aria Sweater PDF is available in my shops:
ADJUSTING THE NECKLINE
The Aria Sweater neckline is shaped using short rows. The number of stitches in each section — back panel, sleeves, and front panel — is a multiple of three.
If you’d like to adjust the neckline to make it wider (for a smaller size) without changing the overall bust circumference, you can begin with more starting stitches and later adjust the bust using the underarm stitches.
For example, in Size 1, there are:
-10 pattern repeats (10 × 3 sts) for the back panel
-10 pattern repeats for the front panel
-7 pattern repeats for each sleeve
After completing the yoke, 3 pattern repeats are added at each underarm.
To start with a wider neckline, you can add 1–2 extra pattern repeats to each section — for instance:
-11 or 12 pattern repeats for the front and back panels
-8 or 9 pattern repeats for the sleeves
When dividing for the sleeves and body, simply add fewer underarm stitches to maintain the original bust measurement.
For example, if you added 1 extra pattern repeat to each section (front, back, and sleeves), you can reduce the underarm stitches from 3 pattern repeats to 2.
Notes for Adjusting Short Rows
If you change the initial stitch count for the neckline, you’ll also need to adjust the short-row shaping.
As a general rule, begin with the back panel stitches + 2. Then, increase at the beginning and end of each row until you’ve added the sleeve stitches. Continue increasing for a few more rows to include some front-panel stitches as well.
The increases are worked as follows:
On right-side (cable) rows: increase 2 sts by working 3 dc into the first stitch.
On wrong-side (sc) rows: increase 3 sts by working 2 sc into each of the first 3 stitches.
On each right-side row, whenever you have 3 free double crochet stitches one row below, work a cable around those 3 dc.
INSTRUCTIONS
YOKE
NECKLINE SHORT ROWS
Begin with the back panel stitches + 2. Then, increase at the beginning and end of each row until you’ve added the sleeve stitches. Continue increasing for a few more rows to include some front-panel stitches as well.
The increases are worked as follows:
On right-side (cable) rows: increase 2 sts by working 3 dc into the first stitch.
On wrong-side (sc) rows: increase 3 sts by working 2 sc into each of the first 3 stitches.
On each right-side row, whenever you have 3 free double crochet stitches one row below, work a cable around those 3 dc.
Number of stitches used as reference:
Size 1: 30sts back and front, 21sts sleeves (10 pattern repeats for back and front and 7 pattern repeats for sleeves)
Size 2: 36sts for back and front and 24sts for the sleeve (12 pattern repeats for back and front and 8 pattern repeats for sleeves)
Size 3: 36sts for back and front and 24sts for the sleeve (12 pattern repeats for back and front and 8 pattern repeats for sleeves)
Size 4: 39sts for back and front and 27sts for the sleeves (13 pattern repeats for back and front and 9 pattern repeats for sleeves)
Size 5: 45sts for back and front and 30sts for the sleeves (15 pattern repeats for back and front and 10 pattern repeats for the sleeves)
Size 6: 45sts for back and front and 30sts for the sleeves (15 pattern repeats for back and front and 10 pattern repeats for the sleeves)
According to the numbers above, you will begin with 32 (38, 38, 41, 47, 47) sts, increasing as described until you have 21 (24, 24, 27, 30, 30) sts for each sleeve. Then, work a few additional rows to add a small number of stitches for the front panel.
Once these increases are complete, chain the number of stitches needed to match the back panel (so that the front and back have the same stitch count) and join with a slip stitch to close the round.
In the instructions below, the term “1 cable” indicates that you should work one cable stitch.
Make sure to read the “Stitch Pattern and Techniques” section beforehand to familiarize yourself with the stitch construction.
TIPS:
- Use stitch markers to mark the back panel stitches.
- At the start of each cable row, count the stitches from the first back-panel marker to the beginning of the row. Allocate 3 sts for each new cable to determine how many dc you need to work between the row’s increase and the first cable.
- Work a cable stitch only when you have 3 free dc stitches one row below.
For all sizes:
Start: 32 (38, 38, 41, 47, 47) sts, then ch2 (will not count as a dc) and begin working into the third st:
R1: 3dc into the first st, 1dc into the next 30 (36, 36, 39, 45, 45) sts (use 2st markers to mark this sts – the back panel sts) 3dc into the last st, ch1 and turn
Total sts: 30 (36, 36, 39, 45, 45) sts for the back, 3sts for the sleeves
R2: 2sc into the first 3sts, 1sc into the next 30 (36, 36, 39, 45, 45) sts, 2sc into the last 3sts; ch2 and turn
Total sts: 30 (36, 36, 39, 45, 45) sts for the back, 6sts for the sleeves
R3: 3dc into the first st, 1dc into the next 2sts, 1cable (around the 3dc 1row below), 1cable x 10 (12, 12, 13, 15, 15) times (back panel sts), 1cable around the last 3dc 1 row below, 1dc into the next 2sts, 3dc into the last st; ch1 and turn
Total sts: 10 (12, 12, 13, 15, 15) cables for the back, 1cable and 5sts for the sleeves
R4: 2sc into the first 3sts, 1sc in each of the following sts, except the last 3, 2sc into the last 3sts; ch2 and turn
Total sts: 30 (36, 36, 39, 45, 45) sts for the back, 11sts for the sleeves
R5: 3dc into the first st, 1dc in next 4sts, 1cable x 2 times (these are for the sleeve), 1Cable x 10 (12, 12, 13, 15, 15) times (back panel sts), 1cable x 2 times, 1dc in next 4sts, 3dc into the last st; ch1 and turn;
Total sts: 10 (12, 12, 13, 15, 15) cables for the back, 2cable and 7sts for the sleeves;
R6: Rep. R4
Total sts: 30 (36, 36, 39, 45, 45) sts for the back, 16sts for the sleeves
R7: 3dc into the first st, 1dc into the next 3sts, 1Cable x 4times (for the sleeves), 1Cable x 10 (12, 12, 13, 15, 15) times (back panel sts), 1Cable x 4times, 1dc into the next 3sts, 3dc into the last st; ch1 and turn;
Total sts: 10 (12, 12, 13, 15, 15) cables for the back, 4cable and 6sts for the sleeves;
R8: rep. R4
Total sts: 30 (36, 36, 39, 45, 45) sts for the back, 21sts for the sleeves
For Size 1, we reached the number of sts for the sleeves and we will work 3 more increase rows to add some front panel sts
Size 1 only
Use another 2st markers to also mark the front panel sts;
R9: 3dc into the first st (place a st marker into the second st – the first 2sts belongs to the front panel), 1dc into the next 2sts, 1Cable x 6 times, 1Cable x 10 times (back panel sts), 1Cable x 6 times, 1dc into the next 2sts, 3dc into the last st (place a st marker into the second to last st);ch1 and turn;
Total sts: 9 cables for the back, 6cable and 3sts for the sleeves, 2sts for the front panels
R10: rep.R4
Total sts: 30 sts for the back, 21sts for the sleeves, 4sts for the front panels
R11: 3dc into the first st, 1dc into the next 4sts, 1Cable x 7times (sleeve), 1Cable x 10times (back panel), 1Cable x 7times (sleeve), 1dc into the next 4sts, 3dc into the last st, ch16 (to complete the front panel) and join with a sl st into the first dc; ch1 ant turn
R12: 1sc in each st around and join with a sl st into the first sc.
Total sts: 30 sts for the back, 21sts for the sleeves and 30sts for the front panel;
Cut the yarn
Continue with the “ACTUAL YOKE” section;
💾 Prefer the Printable PDF Version?
If you’d like to support my work and enjoy a beautifully formatted, ad-free version of this pattern that you can download and print, the Aria Sweater PDF is available in my shops:
Sizes 2 and 3 only
R9: 3dc into the first st 1dc into the next 2sts, 1Cable x 6 times, 1Cable x 12 times (back panel sts), 1Cable x 6 times, 1dc into the next 2sts, 3dc into the last st
Total sts: 12 cables for the back, 6cable and 5sts for the sleeves
R10: Rep. R4
Total Sts: 36sts for the back, 24sts for the sleeves, 2sts for the front panels; place a st marker into the second st and second to last st to mark the front panels;
R11: 3dc into the first st, 1dc into the next 4sts, 1Cable x 7 times (sleeves), 1Cable x 12 times (back panel), 1 Cable x 7 times (sleeves), 1dc in next 4sts, 3dc into the last st;
Total sts: 12 cables for the back panel, 7Cables and 3 sts for the sleeves, 4sts for the front panels
R12: Rep. R4
Total sts: 36sts for the back, 24sts for the sleeves, 7sts for the front panels
R13: 3dc into the first st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1Cabel (front), 1Cable x 8 times (sleeve), 1Cable x 12 times (back), 1Cable x 8 times (sleeve) 1Cable, 1dc into the next 3sts, 3dc into the last st, ch18 to complete the front and sl st into the first dc; 1ch and turn.
R14: 1sc in each st around, sl st into the first sc;
Total sts: 36 sts for back and front, 24sts for the sleeves
Cut the yarn
Continue with the “ACTUAL YOKE” section;
Size 4 only
R9: 3dc into the first st 1dc into the next 2sts, 1Cable x 6 times, 1Cable x 13 times (back panel sts), 1Cable x 6 times, 1dc into the next 2sts, 3dc into the last st
Total sts: 13 cables for the back, 6cable and 5sts for the sleeves
R10: Rep. R4
Total Sts: 39sts for the back, 26sts for the sleeves, R11: 3dc into the first st, 1dc into the next 4sts, 1Cable x 7 times (sleeves), 1Cable x 13times (back panel), 1 Cable x 7 times (sleeves), 1dc in next 4sts, 3dc into the last st;
Total sts: 13 cables for the back panel, 7Cables and 6 sts for the sleeves,1st for the front panels
R12: Rep. R4
place a st marker into the second and second to last st to mark the front panels sts.
Total sts: 39sts for the back, 27sts for the sleeves, 4sts for the front panels
R13: 3dc into the first st, 1dc in next 3sts (front), 1Cable x 9 times (sleeve), 1Cable x 13 times (back), 1Cable x 9 times (sleeve) , 1dc into the next 3sts, 3dc into the last st, ch27 to complete the front and sl st into the first dc; 1ch and turn.
R14: 1sc in each st around, sl st into the first sc;
Total sts: 39 sts for back and front, 27sts for the sleeves
Note: You can work 2 more short rows to add more sts to the front panels and lower the neckline even more;
Cut the yarn
Continue with the “ACTUAL YOKE” section;
Sizes 5 and 6 only
R9: 3dc into the first st 1dc into the next 2sts, 1Cable x 6 times, 1Cable x 15 times (back panel sts), 1Cable x 6 times, 1dc into the next 2sts, 3dc into the last st
Total sts: 15 cables for the back, 6cable and 5sts for the sleeve
R10: Rep. R4
Total Sts: 45sts for the back, 26sts for the sleeves, R11: 3dc into the first st, 1dc into the next 4sts, 1Cable x 7 times (sleeves), 1Cable x 15times (back panel), 1 Cable x 7 times (sleeves), 1dc in next 4sts, 3dc into the last st;
Total sts: 15 cables for the back panel, 7Cables and 7sts for the sleeves
R12: Rep. R4.
Total sts: 45sts for the back, 30sts for the sleeves, 1st for the front panels
R13: 3dc into the first st,(front), 1dc in next 3sts, 1Cable x 9 times (sleeve), 1Cable x 15 times (back), 1Cable x 9 times (sleeve) , 1dc into the next 3sts, 3dc into the last st (front)
Total sts: 15 Cables for the back, 9 Cables and 3 sts for the sleeves, 3sts for the front panels
R14: Rep. R4
Total sts:45sts for the back, 30sts for the sleeves, 6sts for the front panels
R15: 3dc into the first st, 1dc in next 5sts (front), 1Cable x 10 times (sleeve), 1Cable x 15 times (back), 1Cable x 10 times (sleeve), 1dc in next 5sts, 3dc in last st, ch29sts to complete the front panel and sl st into the first dc; ch1 and turn
R16:1sc in each st around, sl st into the first sc
Total sts: 45sts for back and front, 30sts for the sleeves
Cut the yarn
Continue with the “ACTUAL YOKE” section;
ACTUAL YOKE
Tips
- Keep using stitch markers to mark the back and front panel stitches; this will be very helpful when splitting the yoke into sleeves and body.
- For all sizes, there will be three rounds with increases, worked between the cables.
- In the video tutorial, I increased on the single crochet rounds, but I later realized it’s easier to make the increases on the cable rounds, as it’s much clearer where to place them.
- When counting rounds, it’s easiest to count only the cable rounds (the double crochet rounds between the cables).
- For the yoke, work 13 (14, 15, 17, 18, 20) rounds, counting only the cable rounds.
- Increases are made on every 4th (4th, 5th, 5th, 6th, 7th) cable round.
This means you will work one increase round, followed by 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6) cable rounds without increases. - For some sizes, you may need to work a few additional rounds to reach the total yoke length, or the last increase section may have fewer rounds without increases.
- The yoke is worked in the round, but you will turn after each round and work the single crochet rounds on the wrong side.
Pattern:
With you work facing the right side, rejoin yarn into the first st of the back panel and ch2:
R1: 1Cable around each cable one row below; on top of the front panel sc sts, work dc sts; if on the front panel sts, you have 3 free dc one row below, work a cable; sl st into the first st to close the round; ch1 and turn
R2 (increase round): *1sc into the next 2sts, 2sc into the next st; * rep. to the end of the row; sl st into the first dc, ch2 and turn;
At R3 on top of the front penel sts, work Cable sts around the dc sts one row below;
if you are not sure where to place the double crochet st in between the cables, after working a cable, count the sts behind it, to have 3sts; into the the next stm make the dc
R3: 1dc into the first st, 1Cable, *1dc in next st, 1Cable; *rep. to the end of the row; sl st into the first dc; ch 1 and turn
R4: 1sc in each st around; sl st into the first sc; 2ch and turn;
R5: Rep. R3
Rep. R4 and R5 until round 9 (9, 11, 11, 13, 15)
Next Round(R10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 16)) – Increase round: *1sc in next 3sts, 2sc in next st; *rep. to the end of the round; sl st into the first sc, ch 2 and turn
Next Round: *1dc into the first 2sts. 1Cable; *Rep. to the end of the round; sl st into the first dc; ch 1 and turn
Next round: 1sc in each st around;
Alternate between last 2 rounds, until round 17 (17, 21, 21, 25, 29)
Next Round (R18 (18, 22, 22, 26, 30) – Increase round: *1sc in next 4sts, 2sc in next st; *rep. to the end of the round; sl st into the first sc, ch 2 and turn
Next Round: *1dc into the first 3sts. 1Cable; *Rep. to the end of the round; sl st into the first dc; ch 1 and turn
Next round: 1sc in each st around;
Alternate between last 2 rounds, until round 25 (29, 31, 35, 37, 41)
After completing the third set of increases, the yoke is finished.
At this stage, you will have the same number of pattern repeats as you started with — the difference is that now each repeat consists of 3 dc + 1 cable.
At the end of the yoke, you should have:
10 (12, 12, 13, 15, 15) pattern repeats for the front and back panels
7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 10) pattern repeats for the sleeves
Splitting the Yoke into Body and Sleeves
The splitting round is worked on the wrong side (single crochet round).
Because this round begins with the sleeve stitches, which are skipped, you will start by working 1 sc into the first stitch of the back panel — this should be the marked stitch if you kept your stitch markers in place.
Then:
Ch the number of stitches for the first underarm,
Skip the sleeve stitches,
Work the front panel stitches,
Ch the stitches for the second underarm,
Skip the second sleeve stitches,
Work across the back panel stitches,
Sl st into the first sc to close the round, then ch 2 and turn.
The underarm chain must be a multiple of 6 stitches (as a pattern repeat has 6sts)
The underarm stitches will also add more stitches to the body and sleeve circumference, to reach the desired fit.
Number of pattern repeats for each size: 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5) meaning 18 (18, 24, 24, 24, 30) chain stitches;
Splitting Round Pattern:
Turn your work and start from where your yarn is; work the splitting round in sc on the wrong side;
ch1, 1sc into the first st of the back panel (this will be one st behind), ch 18 (18, 24, 24, 24, 30), skip 7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 10) pattern repeats or 42 (48, 48, 54, 60, 60) sts for the sleeve, 1sc in each of the front panel sts 60 (72, 72, 78, 90, 90) sts, ch h 18 (18, 24, 24, 24, 30), skip 7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 10) pattern repeats or 42 (48, 48, 54, 60, 60) sts for the sleeve, 1sc into the each st of the back panel 59 (71, 71, 77, 89, 89) sts, sl st into the first sc, ch2 and turn;
BODY
R1: *1dc into the first 3sts, 1Cable; *rep. to the armpit sts, 1dc in each of the armpit sts, **1dc into the next 3sts, 1Cable; **rep. to the second armpit ch, 1dc into each of the armpit st, sl st into the first dc to close the round, ch1 and turn;
R2: 1sc into each st around, sl st into the first sc to close the round, ch2 and turn;
Note: At Row 3, you will work the cables around the double crochet stitches at the underarm.
Each body section (back and front) begins with 3 dc and ends with a cable.
This means that, over the underarm stitches, you will start with 3 dc, and finish with cable, and continue with 3 dc over the first 3 stitches of the next section.
R3: *1dc into the next 3sts, 1Cable; *rep to the end of the round; close the round with a sl st into the first dc; ch1 and turn;
R4: 1sc in each st around; sl st into the first sc, ch 2 and turn;
Rep. R3 and R4 until you reach the desired length or until you have 25 (25, 27, 27, 29, 29) round – counting only the right side cable round;
Finish the BODY with the RIBBING – see the RIBBING section below;
SLEEVES
Before starting the sleeves, pay attention to how the stitch pattern (the pattern repeats) aligns with the underarm stitches.
The sleeve cables will not be positioned directly above the body cables.
When beginning the sleeve, rejoin the yarn at the underarm, making sure that your first round starts with the 3 dc section of the stitch pattern repeat.
To determine where to rejoin the yarn for the sleeve, follow these steps:
Step 1:
Look at the beginning of the sleeve stitches and identify which section of the pattern repeat is there.
If it starts with a cable, then the first 3 stitches of the underarm chain will form a 3 dc section, followed by a cable, and then another 3 dc section.
Step 2:
Shift the beginning of the sleeve slightly toward the middle of the underarm.
Rejoin the yarn into the second set of 3 dc stitches, counting from the left corner of the sleeve stitches (with the sleeve facing the wrong side, since the first sleeve round will be worked in single crochet on the wrong side).
Step 3:
Work only single crochet stitches for this round, but make sure that the first 3 sc worked over the underarm stitches will correspond to the 3 dc section of the stitch pattern on the next (right side) round.
Sleeve Pattern
Facing the wrong side, rejoin the yarn into the indicated stitch as explained above; ch1
R1: 1sc in each stitch around; sl st into the first sc to close the round; ch2 and turn
Note:
When transitioning from the underarm chain to the sleeve stitches, work two stitches together:
- One stitch into the last stitch of the underarm and one into the side row of the body.
- Work two stitches together again: one into the side row (or body stitch) and one into the first stitch of the sleeve.
Repeat the same process when transitioning from the sleeve stitches back to the underarm stitches.
R2: 1dc in each of the armpit sts, *1Cable, 1dc into the next 3sts) on top od the sleeve sts, 1dc into the remaining sts of the armpit st; sl st into the first dc to close the round; ch1 and turn;
R3: 1sc in each st around, sl st into the first sc, ch 2 and turn;
R4: *1dc into the frist 3sts, 1Cable; *rep to the end of the round; sl st into the first dc; ch1 and turn;
R5: 1sc in each st around; sl st into the first sc; ch2 and turn;
Starting with R6 begin alternating between R4 and R5 until you reach the desired length;
To taper the sleeves:
If you want to taper the sleeves by decreasing along their length, work the decreases on the right-side rows, using the double crochet stitches between the cables. This allows you to decrease without affecting the cable stitches themselves.
💾 Prefer the Printable PDF Version?
If you’d like to support my work and enjoy a beautifully formatted, ad-free version of this pattern that you can download and print, the Aria Sweater PDF is available in my shops:
Sleeve Decreases:
You can make the first decrease at Row 6 by working the first 3 dc together, reducing the number of dc at the beginning of the round from 3 to 1.
Continue to decrease every 5th round (counting only the right-side rows).
To perform subsequent decreases, work 2 dc together into the first 3-dc section of the sleeve and also into the last 3-dc section of the sleeve.
Repeat in the same positions until all dc stitches are decreased and cables sit cable next to cable.
If you want to continue decreasing after that, move to the next 3-dc section.
At the beginning of each round, it is recommended to keep the first dc stitch in between the first and last cables; this makes it easier to start the round neatly.
Work the sleeve length as indicated until you reach the desired length or until you have:
32 (34, 36, 36, 38, 38) rounds – countin only the cable right side rounds.
Finish the sleeve with the RIBBING. See the Ribbing pattern below:
RIBBING
Work the ribbing around the neckline, bottom hem, and sleeve cuffs.
For the neckline and sleeves, you may use a smaller hook size.
When working around the neckline, on the first round, work into the sides of the short rows: 1 st into the sc side row and 2 sts into the dc side row; alternatively, adjust according to your tension to ensure the stitches are evenly spaced.
The ribbing pattern is worked in the round, on the right side only.
R1: ch3 (will count as a st), 1dc in each st around, sl st into the third st of the starting chain; ch 3
R2: 1fpdc into the next st, *1bpdc into the next, 1fpdc in next; *rep. to the end of the round; sl st into the third st of the starting ch;
Rep. R2 until you reach the desired width of the ribbing;
TO FINISH
Weave in all the ends and block to measurements
I hope you’ll enjoy making the Aria Sweater as much as I enjoyed designing it!
If you share your finished sweater on social media, don’t forget to tag me [@by_katerina] and use the hashtag #AriaSweater so I can see your gorgeous work and share it with our crochet community. 💕
If you’d like to support my work and get access to exclusive discounts, consider joining my YouTube Membership or checking out my digital crochet patterns in the shop.
💾 Prefer the Printable PDF Version?
If you’d like to support my work and enjoy a beautifully formatted, ad-free version of this pattern that you can download and print, the Aria Sweater PDF is available in my shops:
🧶 Happy crocheting, and thank you for supporting handmade design!
