🌿 Mojito Shirt – Free Crochet Pattern (Step-by-Step Guide)
Looking for your next relaxing and stylish summer make? The Mojito Shirt is an airy, lightweight crochet top designed for warm-weather layering. With a minimal-shaping construction, meditative lace stitches, and inclusive sizing (XS–4XL), it’s the perfect project whether you’re a confident beginner or a seasoned crocheter.
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🧶 What You’ll Need:
- Yarn: Fingering weight (Size 1) – approx. 660–1090 meters
(I used Scheepjes Organicon – Color 212: Sweet Apple) - Hook: 3.5 mm
- Notions: Scissors, yarn needle, stitch markers
📌 This pattern is worked in two flat panels, seamed together, and finished with sleeves and tie cords.
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
This breezy, lightweight Mojito Shirt is designed to be worn as a stylish layering piece for warm weather. Featuring an open lace stitch pattern and relaxed, boxy fit, the garment combines comfort with elegance. The shirt is worked flat in two identical panels (front and back), then seamed at the shoulders and sides. Sleeves are worked right into the armhole, keeping shaping minimal and construction straightforward.
The neckline is finished with a simple tie closure for an adjustable and casual look. The stitch pattern is airy and repetitive, making it meditative to crochet and easy to customize in both length and width.
This design is intended to be worn with 20 cm of positive ease for a relaxed silhouette. It can be styled over tank tops, dresses, or swimsuits, making it a versatile addition to any wardrobe.
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Mojito Pattern is available in 8 sizes, from XS up to 4X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with a 88 cm bust circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL);
Final Measurements of the Mojito Shirt
*Neck Circ. a: 44cm (46, 47, 46) (47, 56.5, 56.5, 56.5)
Bust Circ. b: 106 cm (110, 120, 130), (139, 149, 158, 168)
**Sleeve Circ. c: 38 cm (40, 44, 46) (47, 49, 51, 54)
Sleeve Length: d: 20cm (20, 22, 22) (22, 24, 24, 24)
Length e: 46 cm (46, 46, 46) (46, 48, 48, 48)
*the neckline circ. is measured before the edging; it can be adjusted while working on the front panel
YARN
For the Mojito Shirt, I used: Organicon by Scheepjes Yarn, in color 212, Sweet Apple.
Yarn composition:100% Organic Cotton; Each skein has 50 grams and is approximately 170 meters.
For each size, you will approximately need: 660 (680, 750, 820) (870, 980,1030, 1090) meters
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
fpsc – front post single crochet
dcVst – 1dc, 2ch. 1dc into the same st
dc2wide – 2dc together with 2sts in
between
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – row
** – repeated section.
TENSION
Using 3.5 mm crochet hook in the main stitch pattern
*5 motiffs = 15 cm
8.5 rows = 10 cm
*1 motiff is measured as 1 circle pattern diameter and it has (1dc, 2ch, 1dc, 5ch, 1dc, 2ch, 1dc); it is the middle row of one circle
STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES
The main stitch pattern used in the Mojito Blouse is an open lace design created by combining double crochet stitches with chain stitches. The pattern alternates between two distinct rows and it requires a multiple of 9+8 sts
Row A features a mix of Double Crochet V-Stitches and Wide Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog wide).
Row B consists solely of double crochet stitches and chains, forming the lace mesh.
Stitch Explanations:
Double Crochet V-Stitch (dcVst):
Insert your hook into the indicated stitch, work 1 double crochet (dc), chain 2, and 1 dc — all into the same stitch.
Wide Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog wide):
Yarn over, insert the hook into the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull through — you now have 3 loops on the hook.
Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (beginning a dc) — leave 2 loops on the hook.
Skip the next 2 stitches, yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull through — you now have 4 loops on the hook.
Yarn over, pull through 2 loops (another partial dc), then yarn over and pull through all 3 remaining loops on the hook to complete the stitch.
This combination of stitches creates a beautiful and airy texture, perfect for a lightweight summer blouse.
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If you’d like to support my work and enjoy a beautifully formatted, ad-free version of this pattern that you can download and print, the Mojito Shirt PDF is available in my shops:
INSTRUCTIONS
BACK PANEL
Working the Back Panel (From Side to Side):
Note: The length of the piece is determined by the number of starting stitches. If you wish to adjust the finished length, simply modify the initial stitch count accordingly.
Note: The back panel is worked side to side, so its width is determined by the number of rows you crochet. You can easily adjust the width by adding or removing rows as needed. For best results, finish with an odd number of rows, as even-numbered rows tend to create a more open and less structured edge.
Start: ch 134 (134, 134, 134) (134, 143, 143, 143)sts
Place a st marker into the last st; to make it easier;
ch5 more sts (3ch will count as a dc and 2 separating chain)
R1: Start into the second st after the st marker; 1dc2tog wide (as explained in Stitch Pattern and techniques), 2ch, *skip the next 2sts, 1dcVst into the next st, 2ch, skip the next 2sts, 1dc2tog wide, 2ch; Rep. from * until you have 2sts left, skip the next st, 1dc into the last st;
R2: ch8, *skip (2ch, 1dc2tog wide, 2ch), 1dc into the next dc, 2ch, 1dc into the next dc, 5ch; *rep. to the end of the row; finish the row with 1dc into the third ch;
R3: Ch5, 1dcVst into the third ch of the 5ch-sp, 2ch, *1dc2tog wide (on top of 1dc, ch2, 1dc), 2ch, 1dcVst into the third ch of the 5ch-sp, 2ch; *rep. to the end of the row; finish the row with 1dc into the third ch;
R4: ch5, 1dc into the next dc, 2ch, 1dc into the next dc, *ch5, skip (2ch, 1dc2tog wide, 2ch), 1dc into the next dc, 2ch, 1dc into the next dc; *rep to the end of the row; finish the row with 2ch and 1dc into the third ch;
R5: ch5, 1dc2tog wide (on top of 1dc, ch2, 1dc), 2ch, *1dcVst into the third ch of the 5ch-sp, 2ch, 1dc2tog wide (on top of 1dc, ch2, 1dc), 2ch; *rep. to the end of the row; finish the row with 1dc into the third ch;
Rep. R2 – R5 until you have for the back panel width: 45 (47, 51, 55) (59, 63, 67, 71) rows or until you reach the desired width;
FRONT PANELS
Note: The stitch pattern looks the same on both the right and wrong sides, so you can work both front and back panels using the same pattern without worrying about orientation. When assembling the blouse, one panel will naturally face the right side and the other the wrong side — this will not affect the final appearance.
Work the front panels also side to side and begin with the same number of sts as the back panel;
Shoulder
Start: ch 134 (134, 134, 134) (134, 143, 143, 143)sts
Work into the established pattern until you have: 15 (15, 17, 19) (21, 21, 23, 25) rows
Shaping the Neckline
For some sizes the neckline will be deeper than for others due to the fact that in some sizes the last row of the shoulder section ends with a dcVst and for others with dc2tog wide
The decrease pattern will be the same;
Next Row (first decrease row)
Work into the established pattern until the second to last dcVst; work 1dc into the first dc of the dcVst, ch2, 1dc2tog wide into the second dc of the dcVst and into the next dc2tog wide;
Next Row: ch3, 1dc into the next dc, ch2, 1dcVst into the third ch of the 5ch-sp, *1dc2tog wide (on top of 1dc, ch2, 1dc), 2ch; continue into the established pattern to the end of the row;
Next Row: Work into the established pattern until the last dcVst; 2ch, 1dc2tog wide into dc sts of the dcVst and the last dc;
Next row: ch5, 1dcVst into the third ch of the 5ch-sp, *1dc2tog wide (on top of 1dc, ch2, 1dc), 2ch; continue into the established pattern to the end of the row;
Next row: Work into the established pattern to the end of the row; finish the row with ch2, 1dc into the third st
The last row was wothout decreases; next, continue working into the established pattern until you have: 23 (23, 25, 27) (29, 31, 33, 35) rows;
fasten off;
Repeat the same pattern for the second front panel;
JOINING
Joining the Shoulder Seams
Before creating the sleeves, we’ll begin by joining the shoulder seams. The same method will later be used to join the sleeves and the sides of the blouse.
Begin with both panels facing the right side (RS) out.
Instructions:
Step 1: Rejoin the yarn into the bottom of the first stitch of the side row on the back panel. Ch 2.
Step 2: Slip stitch (sl st) into the bottom of the first stitch of the corresponding side row on the front panel. Ch 2.
Step 3: Sl st into the bottom of the stitch of the next side row on the back panel. Ch 2.
Step 4:Sl st into the bottom of the stitch of the next side row on the front panel.
Repeat steps 3 and 4 until the shoulder seam is fully joined.
Joining the Sides of the Shirt
When joining the side seams, you’ll be working across stitches, not side rows.
Use the same slip stitch method.
Skip the ch-2 spaces on both sides in between each slip stitch for a neater finish.
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If you’d like to support my work and enjoy a beautifully formatted, ad-free version of this pattern that you can download and print, the Mojito Shirt PDF is available in my shops:
SLEEVES:
We will begin shaping the sleeves by working directly into the raw edges of the front and back panels. This construction method allows for a fully integrated, seamless transition from body to sleeve. Because we continue following the established stitch pattern without interruption, the visual flow of the lace remains consistent across the garment, enhancing both the aesthetic and structural cohesion.
💾 Prefer the Printable PDF Version?
If you’d like to support my work and enjoy a beautifully formatted, ad-free version of this pattern that you can download and print, the Mojito Shirt PDF is available in my shops:
The row along the front and back panel edges consists of dcV-stitches and dc2tog wide stitches. For the purpose of shaping the sleeve, each dcVst and dc2tog wide should be counted as one stitch.
To establish the desired sleeve width, begin counting from the shoulder join, working across both the front and back panel edges. Count 11 (12, 13, 14) (14, 15, 16, 17) stitches (dcVsts and dc2tog wide) on both sides, and place a stitch marker in the next stitch.
Note: This next stitch may be either a dc from a dcVst or a dc2tog wide;
Begin working the sleeve on the right side:
If your st marker is in a dc2tog wide and your next st is a dcVsts begin the first row as follows:
R1: Rejoin the yran into the dc2tog wide; ch5, 1dc into the next dc, 2ch, 1dc into the next dc, *ch5, skip (2ch, 1dc2tog wide, 2ch), 1dc into the next dc, 2ch, 1dc into the next dc; *rep to the end of the row;
Note: if your row ends also with a dcVst and your second st marker is in a dc2tog wide, finish the row as follows: 1dc into the second to last dc, 2ch, 1dc into the next dc, 2ch, 1dc into the last st (the marked dc2tog wide)
if your row ends with a dc2tog wide and your second st marker is into the next dc, finish the row with ch5, skip 2ch, dc2tog wide, 2ch and work 1dc into the last st (the marked st);
If your st marker is in a dc and your next st is a dc2tog wide, begin the first row as follows;
Rejoin yarn into the marked st; ch8, *skip (2ch, 1dc2tog wide, 2ch), 1dc into the next dc, 2ch, 1dc into the next dc, 5ch; *rep. to the end of the row;
Finish the row, following the indications above;
Continue working into the established stitch pattern until you reach the desired length or until you have: 16 (16, 18, 18) (18, 20, 20, 20)
Note: Finish the row with a dcVst and dc2tog widw row;
EDGING
Work the same edging pattern for the sleeves, bottom hem, neckline, and front panel edges to maintain a cohesive look throughout the blouse.
The sleeve edging can be worked either immediately after completing the sleeve length or after full assembly, depending on your preference.
The bottom hem, neckline, and front panel edges should be worked after the garment has been assembled.
For assembling follow the method explained in the JOINING section;
The neckline and front panel edges will be finished in one continuous piece for a clean and seamless finish
You can use the same 3.5 mm hook for the edging, or go down one or two hook sizes if you notice the edging starting to curl.
When working the first edging row:
Into side rows: Work 2 stitches per row.
Into stitches: Work 1 stitch into each stitch (dc, dc2tog wide, or chain) except for the chain spaces of a dcVst.
For a dcVst, work only 1 stitch into the ch-2 space to prevent the edge from becoming uneven or curling.
Edging Pattern
The edging is worked over two rows:
Row 1 – Single crochet, placing stitches as explained above.
Row 2 – Front post single crochet across.
TIE CLOSURE CORDS
For the Mojito Shirt, I chose to add two tie cords on each side for a stylish and adjustable front closure.
I placed the first cord in the first stitch of the front panel, right next to the neckline, and the second cord approximately 14 stitches below.
Feel free to adjust the placement or length to suit your preference.
Instructions:
- Rejoin the yarn into the indicated stitch on the front panel.
- Ch 70 (adjust the number of chains to your preferred cord length).
- Work 1 single crochet (sc) into each chain stitch, back toward the front panel edge.
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the next stitch along the front panel edge to secure.
- Fasten off.
Repeat the same steps for the remaining three cords.
TO FINISH
Weave in all ends and block to measurements
For a comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video
💾 Prefer the Printable PDF Version?
If you’d like to support my work and enjoy a beautifully formatted, ad-free version of this pattern that you can download and print, the Mojito Shirt PDF is available in my shops:
💚 Final Thoughts
The Mojito Shirt is truly one of those garments that you’ll reach for all summer long. Whether styled over a sundress or paired with denim shorts, it brings just the right touch of handmade charm.
Let me know in the comments: What color will you make yours? 🌿
