Soft Season Cardigan – Free Crochet Pattern + Video Tutorial

There’s something truly special about a handmade cardigan — it carries warmth, comfort, and a touch of timeless style. The Soft Season Cardigan is exactly that: soft, light, and versatile enough to wear all year round. With its oversized fit, relaxed drop shoulders, and clean V-neckline, this design feels modern yet cozy, making it a piece you’ll want to reach for again and again.

This crochet cardigan is worked with a seamless construction that keeps the look polished while making the process enjoyable. The back panel flows into the front panels, sleeves are crocheted directly into the armholes, and the ribbed edges bring everything together for a clean finish. Available in sizes XS through 5XL, the Soft Season Cardigan is a wardrobe staple that truly fits every maker and every style.

Whether you’re layering it over jeans and a tee for a casual day out, or draping it over a dress for an evening look, this cardigan proves that handmade can be both comfortable and chic. Keep reading for the full written pattern, helpful tips, and the video tutorial so you can crochet your own Soft Season Cardigan!

💾 Prefer the Printable PDF Version?

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MATERIALS

*Fingering or Sport Weight Yarn
Crochet hook 3.5 mm / US E/4
5 to 8 18mm Buttons – Go Handmade Wooden Buttons – Round Groove- Stitch Pattern
Stitch Markers
Yarn Needle for weaving ends and assembling

*For the sample, I held Lace Alpaca together with Mohair. You can find more details in the YARN section.

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The Soft Season Cardigan is an intermediate-level crochet design that balances comfort with a modern, effortless style. Featuring an oversized fit, relaxed drop shoulders, and a clean V-neckline, it drapes beautifully on the body, giving you that laid-back yet polished look you’ll reach for again and again.

The construction begins with the back panel, worked top-down to create a subtle high-low hem and a gently shaped neckline. From there, the front panels are worked directly into the back, eliminating bulky seams and ensuring a smooth, flattering silhouette. This seamless approach highlights the natural flow of the fabric and makes the finishing process quick and satisfying.

Designed with versatility in mind, the cardigan is perfect for layering over everyday outfits or pairing with dressier looks for a touch of handmade elegance. Lightweight yet cozy, it’s the kind of wardrobe staple that feels equally at home during cool summer evenings or crisp autumn days.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Soft Season Cardigan Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with a 88 cm bust circumference, and wears a size Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S) M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL 5XL;

Final Measurements of the Soft Season Cardigan

Neckline Width: 24 (24) 25 25 26 26 27 27 27 cm / 9.5” (9.5”) 9.75” 9.75” 10.25” 10.25” 10.5” 10.5” 10.5”
Bust Circumference: 104 (110) 114 120 130 144 152 168 174 cm / 41” (43.25”) 44.75” 47.25” 51.25” 56.75” 59.75” 66.25” 68.5”
Length: 51 (51) 51 52 53 56 57 60 61 cm / 20” (20”) 20” 20.5” 20.75” 22” 22.5” 23.5” 24”
Sleeve Circumference: 41 (46) 46 52 53 60 62 66 71 cm / 16” (18”) 18” 20.5” 20.75” 23.5” 24.5” 26” 28”
Sleeve Length: 41 (41) 43 43 44 44 45 45 45 cm / 16” (16”) 17” 17” 17.25” 17.25” 17.75” 17.75” 17.75”

YARN

For the Soft Season Cardigan I used:
Soft Alpaca Lace, Hobbii, 100 % Alpaca, 50 g / 1.8 oz = 400 m / 437.45 yds
Friends Kid Silk, Hobbii, 72 % Mohair, 25 % Silk, 3 % Wool, 25 g / 0.9 oz = 200 m / 219 yds

For each size you will need:
4 (4) 5 5 5 6 6 7 7 skeins of Soft Alpaca Lace color 13
8 (8) 9 9 10 11 12 14 14 skeins of Friends Kid Silk color 88

ABBREVIATIONS

ch = chain
sc = single crochet
Fpsc = front post single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Hdc sl st blo = half double crochet slip stitch in back loop only

• R – row
• ** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 3.5mm crochet hook
17 sts x 16 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm / 4” x 4”
(In Half Double Crochet)

STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The Soft Season Cardigan is created using simple stitches, resulting in a timeless and classic look. The main stitch pattern is half double crochet, complemented by a decorative edging that alternates between rows of single crochet and front post single crochet, creating a subtle embossed texture.
We will use half-double crochet slip stitches for the elastic ribbing.

Front Post Single Crochet (fpsc)
Insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below (instead of into the top loops). Yarn over (YO) and pull up a loop. You should now have 2 loops on your hook.
Yarn over again and pull through both loops on the hook.

Half Double Crochet Slip Stitch in the Back Loop Only (hdc slst blo)
Yarn over (YO). Insert your hook into the back loop only of the next stitch.
(The back loop is the one furthest from you when looking at the top of the stitch.) Yarn over (YO) again and pull through both the stitch and the two loops on your hook — all in one motion.

It’s clever construction creates a relaxed, comfortable fit and allows for easy customization to suit any body type. The project begins with the top back panel, worked from the neckline downward. To shape the sloped shoulders, you’ll increase at both the beginning and end of each row during the initial section.

How many rows should you increase? That depends on your desired fit and the width of your neckline. In this design, the increases continue until the intended bust measurement is reached. From there, the panel is worked straight down to your preferred length.

The front panels are then built directly from the shoulders, and the sleeves are worked seamlessly into the armholes. To finish, an elastic ribbing pattern is added to the cuffs, bottom hem, neckline, and button band—bringing the entire piece together with a clean, cohesive look.

INSTRUCTIONS

BACK PANEL

Notes:

• Begin working the first section of the Top Back Panel from the neckline, progressing downward.
• In this section, you’ll increase at both ends of each row:
  • On one row, increase 1 stitch at each end.
  • On the following row, increase 2 stitches at each end.
• Alternate this pattern as you continue shaping the shoulders.
• I used two chains as a starting stitch for each row, which will count as a first hdc, but feel free to use any stitch you’re comfortable with.
• When making increases, do not work into the very first or last stitch of the row. Instead, place your increases into the stitch after the first stitch and before the last stitch for a neater edge

Start: ch 40 (40) 42 42 44 44 46 46 46 sts
Row 1: ch2 and begin into the 4th st; 2hdc into the next st (the 4thch from the hook), 1hdc in each of the next sts, until you have 2sts left, 2hdc into the next st, 1hdc into the last st; 2ch andturn
Row 2: 2hdc into the next 2sts, 1hdc in each of the follwing sts until you have 3sts left, 2hdc into the next 2sts, 1hdc into the last st; turn;
Continue alternating Row 1 and Row 2, increasing one row with one st on each end and on the next row increasing 2sts on each end until you have 16 (18) 18 20 22 26 28 32 34 rows. Place a stitch marker into the last row; this will help you know where the shoulder edge ends.

At the end of this section, you will have:
88 (94) 96 104 110 122 130 142 148 sts

Next, continue working without increasing until you have 76 (76) 76 78 80 84 86 90 92 rows;
Fasten off;

RIGHT FRONT PANEL
Shoulder Edge

We’ll begin working on the right front panel from the shoulder edge. This edge not only adds a clean, polished detail to the shoulder but also helps create a neat and structured finish.

We will work 3sts in every 2 side rows;

Start working on the right side
Rejoin yarn into the first st and ch 1;
Row 1: 1sc in each st to the end of the row (work 3sc in each 2-side row); ch 1 and turn
At the end of the row, you should have
24 (27) 27 30 33 39 42 48 51 sc
Row 2: 1fpsc around each sc to the end of the row; ch1 and turn
Row 3: Rep. Row 1
Row 4: Rep. Row 2, ch2, and turn

Actual Right Front Panel
Row 1 – Row 4: 1hdc in each st to the end of the row; ch2 an turn
Next, we will start increasing every other row, only at the end, next to the neckline, to create the V-neckline shape.
Row 5: 1hdc in each st, until you have 2sts left, 2hdc in next st, 1hdc in last st; ch 2 and turn;
Row 6: 1hdc in each st to the end of the row;

Alternate between Row 5 and Row 6 until you have 38 (38) 38 38 40 42 42 44 46 rows.
After the last row, you have: 41 (44) 44 47 51 58 61 68 71 sts

Continue without increasing until you complete the length of the Front Panel: 76 (76) 76 78 80 84 86 90 92 rows.
Fasten off;

LEFT FRONT PANEL
Shoulder Edge

We’ll begin working on the left front panel from the shoulder edge. This edge not only adds a clean, polished detail to the shoulder but also helps create a neat and structured finish.

We will work 3sts in every 2 side rows;

Start working on the right side.
Rejoin yarn into the first st (the first stitch will be right next to the neckline) and ch 1;
Row 1: 1sc in each st to the end of the row (work 3sc in each 2-side row); ch 1 and turn
At the end of the row, you should have
24 (27) 27 30 33 39 42 48 51 sc
Row 2: 1fpsc around each sc to the end of the row; ch1 and turn
Row 3: Rep. Row 1
Row 4: Rep. Row 2, ch2, and turn

Actual Left Front Panel
Row 1 – Row 4: 1hdc in each st to the end of the row; ch2 an turn
Next, we will start increasing every other row, only at the beginning, next to the neckline, to create the V-neckline shape.
Row 5: 2hdc into the next st, 1hdc in each st, to the end of the row, ch 2 and turn;
Row 6: 1hdc in each st to the end of the row;
Alternate between Row 5 and Row 6 until you have 38 (38) 38 38 40 42 42 44 46 rows.
After the last row, you have: 41 (44) 44 47 51 58 61 68 71 sts

Continue without increasing until you complete the length of the Front Panel: 76 (76) 76 78 80 84 86 90 92 rows.
Fasten off;

SLEEVES (use the same pattern for both)

The sleeves are worked directly into the armhole.
Use two stitch markers to mark the armhole opening — the section between the markers will represent the sleeve’s circumference.

The sleeve is worked flat, back and forth in rows.

Armhole Opening
Count from the shoulder edge:
Side rows on the back panel: 14 (16) 16 18 18 20 20 20 22 – place a st marker into the last side row;
Side rows on the front panel: 30 (34) 34 38 40 46 48 52 56 – place a st marker into the last side row;

Armhole Edge
Work from st marker to the stitch marker
We will work 3sts in every 2 side rows;
Into the shoulder edge work 1sc in each side row
Start working on the right side.
Rejoin yarn into the first st and ch 1;
Row 1: 1sc in each st to the end of the row (work 3sc in each 2-side row); ch 1 and turn
At the end of the row, you should have 70 (79) 79 88 101 103 106 112 121 sc
Row 2: 1fpsc around each sc to the end of the row; ch1 and turn
Row 3: Rep. Row 1
Row 4: Rep. Row 2, ch2, and turn

Sleeve length

To taper the sleeves, we will decrease by 1st at the beginning and 1st at the end of the row, every 6th row;
Decrease by working 2hdc together;
Make the decrease beginning with the second st and with the third to last st;
Row 1: 2hdc together, 1hdc in each st until you have 3sts left, 2hdc together, 1hdc in the last st; ch2 and turn
Row 2 – Row 6: 1hdc in each st to the end of the row;
Rep Row 1 to Row 6 until you have: 60 (60) 64 66 66 68 68 68 rows
If the sleeve length does not have a multiple of 6 rows, finish the length without decreasing.
Fasten off;

ASSEMBLING

Thread a yarn needle with a strand approximately three times the length of the section you need to seam.
Begin seaming along the side edges, starting from the bottom of the cardigan up to the armpit, then continue along the sleeve.

SLEEVES’ CUFF RIBBING
Cuff Edging

Begin the cuff ribbing with the same 4 rows of edging;
Work in the round, but turn after each round
Start working on the right side.
Rejoin yarn into the first st and ch 1;
Round 1: *1sc in next 3sts, 2sc together (making decreases along the first round to narrow the sleeves) ; *rep. As many times as possible to the end of the row; finish the row with remaining sc sts; sl st into the first sc, turn
Round 2: 1ch, 1fpsc around each sc to the end of the row; turn
Round 3: 1ch, 1sc in each st around, sl st into the first sc and turn
Round 4: Rep. Round 2

Cuff Ribbing
Ch 11
Row 1: start into the second st, 1hdc sl st in each st to the end of the row; 1 sl st into the next 2sts of the sleeve edge, turn
Row 2: 1hdc sl st blo in each st to the end of the row, 1ch and turn;
Row 3: 1hdc sl st blo in each st to the end of the row, 1sl st into the next 2sts of the sleeve edge;

Rep. Row 2 and Row 3 until you finish the entire circumference of the sleeve.
Join the Ribbing edges with slip stitches;
Fasten off

BOTTOM HEM RIBBING
Start working on the right side.
Rejoin yarn into the first st and ch 1;
Round 1: 1sc in each st to the end of the row; ch 1 and turn
Round 2: 1fpsc around each sc to the end of the row; 1ch and turn
Round 3: Rep. Row 1
Round 4: Rep. Row 2

Bottom Hem Ribbing
Ch 11
Row 1: start into the second st, 1hdc sl st in each st to the end of the row; 1 sl st into the next 2sts of the bottom hem edge, turn
Row 2: 1hdc sl st blo in each st to the end of the row, 1ch and turn;
Row 3: 1hdc sl st blo in each st to the end of the row, 1sl st into the next 2sts of the bottom hem edge;
Rep. Row 2 and Row 3 until you finish the entire circumference of the bottom hem.
Fasten off

NECKLINE AND BUTTON BAND RIBBING

The neckline and button band ribbing will begin at the bottom corner of one front panel, continue up along the V-neckline, across the back neckline, and down the second front panel.
Start by working the same 4 rows of edging as before.
On the first row, when working into the side of the rows, crochet 3 single crochets (sc) for every 2 side rows to maintain a smooth and even edge

Edging

Start working on the right side.
Rejoin yarn into the first st and ch 1;
Round 1: 1sc in each st to the end of the row; ch 1 and turn
Round 2: 1fpsc around each sc to the end of the row; 1ch and turn
Round 3: Rep. Row 1
Round 4: Rep. Row 2

Ribbing
After completing the edging rows, we will begin working on the ribbing. However, if you plan to add buttonholes, it’s helpful to mark the stitches that correspond to the ribbing rows where the buttonholes will be placed. This will make the process easier and more precise.

Here’s what you can do:

1. Decide how many buttons you want to use (I used 5)
2. Place a stitch marker in the stitches where you want the top and bottom buttons to be.
3. Divide the remaining stitches into equal segments for the rest of the buttons.
   • If you have 3 additional buttons in the middle, divide the remaining stitches by 4 and place a stitch marker at the last stitch of each segment.
   • If the division isn’t exact, adjust the stitch allocation slightly to ensure the buttons are evenly spaced.
     Work the Ribbing into the same pattern as for the cuffs and bottom hem.

Creating the button holes
The number of stitches allocated for a buttonhole will depend on the size of your buttons. For my 1.8 cm diameter buttons, I allocated 2 stitches per buttonhole.

Place the buttonhole at the center of the corresponding row. My ribbing width is 10 stitches, so I worked 4 stitches before the buttonhole, then chained 2 and skipped 2 stitches to create the buttonhole, followed by 4 more stitches to complete the row.
At the beginning of the row, check the position of the stitch marker that marks the buttonhole row.

• If the stitch marker is on the first stitch, you will need to make the buttonhole in the upcoming row.
• If the stitch marker is on the second stitch, the buttonhole will be made on the turning row.
  Continue working in the ribbing pattern, creating buttonholes as described above, until you complete the entire neckline and button band.

TO FINISH
Weave in all loose ends, block to measurements, and sew the buttons.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this Soft Season Cardigan crochet pattern as much as I loved designing it. This cardigan has quickly become one of my favorite layering pieces, and I can’t wait to see how you make it your own — whether you choose soft pastels, rich autumn tones, or classic neutrals.

If you create your own version, don’t forget to share it with me on Instagram @bykaterinadesigns or tag it with #byKaterina so I can celebrate your beautiful work. 💕

Thank you so much for stopping by my corner of the internet and happy crocheting! 🌸

💾 Prefer the Printable PDF Version?

If you’d like to support my work and enjoy a beautifully formatted, ad-free version of this pattern that you can download and print, the Chic Whimsy Blouse PDF is available in my shops:

• 👉 Buy on my website
• 👉 Buy on Ravelry
• 👉 Buy on Etsy
• 👉 Buy on Shopify
• 👉 Buy on Yarnsea