Romi Summer Dress
Summer is my favorite season. I’m dreaming already to a nice vacation at the beach side and this Romi Summer Dress as a perfect Cover Up. It was actually a custom made item for my friend, but I love it so much that I started to make one for my self as well.
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You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download pdf version of this pattern here:
OMG can’t wait to wear this!!! I love the colors, the shape everything and I really want to share with you how you can make one.
About Design
The design of this Romi Summer Dress is similar with the Sea Breeze Cover Up Dress which I made last year. It’s worked top down making the first 2 rounds for the shoulder straps and then we will work the front and back side separately for a few rounds to shape the arm holes and to make the top of the dress. After these few rows we will join the back and front and start working in rounds again.
To create this V shape in front we will increase in middle of the front and back. After joining the parts we will have to decrease on sides to keep the dress straight.
We will work in this V shape a few rounds and then we will fill the sides to make the bottom straight. After we have the bottom straight we will continue working on the length of the dress as many rounds as you want until you get to the desired length.
On the back I designed a deep neckline, but if you want you can repeat for the back the same pattern as for the front and in this way you can have a shorter neckline. I will give you more details in the pattern how you can do that.
Materials you will need
- yarn
5 ply, Sport, Fine, Size 2 weight yarn
- Crochet Hook
3.5 mm (E US size)
- Stitch markers
- Needle to hide the ends
- scissors
For the Romi Summer Dress I used Scheepjes Catona which is a 100% mercerized cotton. Each skein has 50 grams and 125 meters and the recommended needle is 2.5 – 3.5 mm.
For me the cotton is the perfect yarn to make summer clothes and from Scheepjes Catona you will find a lot of beautiful colors to choose. Being mercerized cotton the final look of the dress will have a beautiful shine and also is so easy to work with.
Off course that you can choose any other same weight yarn for this dress in any color you will like.
For the main color I used color Crystalline and for the contrasting colors, Jade and dark teal.
This pattern is available in 4 sizes, from Small to 1 X Large and is written in US terms.
Below you will find the diagram with the final measurements of the dress:
The length of the dress will be adjusted on your needs. For reference the model has 168 cm high and is wearing size S. For size S the length of the dress is 60 cm counting from the armpit.
How much do you need:
- S – 4 skeins of main color and 1 skein of each of contrasting color (almost 250 grams in total and 625 meters)
- M – 5 skeins of main color and 1 skein of each of contrasting color (almost 300 grams in total and 750 meters)
- L – 5 skeins of main color and 1 skein of each of contrasting color (almost 300 grams in total and 750 meters)
- XL – 6 skeins of main color and 1 skein of each of the contrasting color (almost 350 grams in total and 875 meters)
About the stitch pattern we will use in this pattern
The main stitch is the filet stitch or window stitch made with 1 dc, ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in next
On the rounds in the contrasting color we will alternate at some point rounds just in double crochet and windows rounds using triple crochet.
For the length of the dress we will alternate one round in double crochet and one round in filet using triple crochet.
Abbreviations used in this pattern
- Ch – chain
- Dc – double crochet
- Trc – triple crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- Inc – increase (made in middle back and middle front :1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc on filet rows, 2 dc , ch 3, 2 dc – on dc rounds and 1 trc, ch 3, 1 trc on filet triple crochet rounds)
- Dec – decrease (it will be explained in the pattern)
- St(s) – stitch (es)
Gauge
21 dc = 10 cm (4″)
9 rows = 10 cm (4″)
You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download pdf version of this pattern here:
And with all these details written down we can start to work on our Romi Summer Dress.
We will start with foundation chain
- if you want the the neckline on the back to be as deeper as on the front side when you make the foundation chain just double the number of sts for the front side
For exemple on size S you will have to chain 226 sts instead of 280 meaning 112 x 2 + 2
S – 280 sts ( 112 + 1 for the front side and 166+ 1 for the back side)
M – 288 sts (120 +1 for the front side and 166 + 1 for the back side)
L – 300 sts (132 + 1 for the front side and 166 + 1 for the back side)
XL – 308 sts (140 +1 for the front side and 166 + 1 for the back side)
After making the chain join with sl st to make a circle.
put a stitch marker in the last (this will be the st where you will increase on the back) and put another one in after half of the number of sts (the st in which you will increase for the front)
S – put the st marker in st 140 (not counting the last st in which you already put a st marker)
M – in st 144
L – in st 150
XL – in st 154
*if you want a smaller neckline on the back and you started with less sts as explained above you should put the st markers one in the last st, and one after half of the number of sts that you have in total.
Round 1
Ch 4, skip 1, 1 dc in next, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in next]. repeat the section until you get to the first st marker. In the marked stitch, 1 inc (1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc in the same st), [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in next] to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last st (marked st) ch 3 and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.
Round 2
Ch 4 in the ch 3 space behind, skip 1, 1 dc in next, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in next] to the front corner (the ch 3 space), 1 inc in the ch 3 space. continue with the stitch pattern to the end of the round, ending the round with 1 dc in the last ch 3 space, ch 3, and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.
After round 2 cut the yarn. We will start to work the front side and back side separately.
Front side
We will use 2 st markers to mark the edges of the front panel
Count from the middle to the left and right
- S – 33 sts
- M – 37 sts
- L – 41 sts
- XL – 45 sts
Join the yarn into the right marked st.
Row 1
Ch 4, skip 1, 1 dc in next, [ ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the middle ch 3 space. In the ch 3 space 1 inc. Continue with the st pattern to the end of the row.
Repeat row 1 until you have in total:
- S – 13 rows
- M – 15 rows
- L – 17 rows
- XL – 19 rows
The front is done for now. Cut the yarn and start working the back side
Back side
*if you want the same neckline as for the front side, you will have to start with less sts as explained at the beginning of the pattern and repeat the pattern for the front side.
As for the front use 2 stitch markers to mark the back side edges
Count from the middle increase to the left and right:
- S – 55 sts
- M – 57 sts
- L -59 sts
- XL 61 sts
Repeat row 1 from the front side until you have in total:
- S – 2 rows
- M – 5 rows
- L – 8 rows
- XL – 11 rows
An the back side is done and with this the top part of the Romi Summer Dress.
We will start to work now on the body.
Body
Use 2 sts markers to join the edges of the back and front and be easier to know where you will have to make the join.
We will work the body in rounds, so make sure you are start working in the right side of the dress. If necessary, cut the yarn and start working from the proper corner.
We will continue to increase in the ch 3 space as we did until now.
Round 1
Ch 4, skip 1, 1 dc in next, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the ch 3 space, 1 inc in the ch 3 space. Continue with the stitch pattern until you get to the last st of the side, make one dc in the last st, ch 1, 1 dc in the first st of the other side.
Continue with the stitch pattern to the end of the row finishing the row with 1 dc in the last st, ch 1, and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain
Round 2
Starting with this round we will have to decrease on sides to keep the dress edges straight.
We will make the decrease following the stitch chart below:
Start the round with sl st 2 , to have the yarn on the second dc.
Ch 4, skip, 1, 1 dc in next, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section until you get to the ch 3 space, 1 inc in the ch 3 space. Continue with the stitch pattern until you have 2 sts left from the side you are working on, skip the 2 last sts and 2 more sts from the other side, and make 1 dc in next. Continue with the st pattern to the next ch 3 space, 1 inc in the ch 3 space. Continue with the st pattern until you have 2 sts left, skip the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.
Round 3
Repeat Round 2
Rounds 4 – 6
Change the color to one of the contrasting color (my case jade) and repeat round 2.
Round 7
Change to the main color again and repeat round 2, but instead of dc you will make trc.
Rounds 8-9
Change to the second contrasting color (dark teal) and repeat round 2 only that you are working 1 dc in each st (solid round without windows)
Round 10
Change to the main color again and repeat round 7.
Round 11
Change to the first contrasting color (jade) and repeat round 2.
After these 11 rounds we will start to fill the sides.
Row 1
The row will start in one middle corner and it will end in the opposite middle corner.
First you will have to make sure that you have the same number of sts on each side, on the right and on the left of the middle decrease. If you don’t have the same number of sts you will have to adjust that.
Join the yarn in one middle corner. We will start the rows with 1 dec.
Ch 3, skip the next ch sp, 1 dc in next, [ch 1 skip 1, 1 dc in next]. repeat until you have 2 sts left from the side you are working one, skip the last 2 sts, skip the next 2 sts from the other side, 1 dc in next. Continue with the st pattern until you have 3 sts left (1 dc, 1 ch and 1 dc). Make 1 partial dc in the next dc and a second partial dc in the last dc.
Below you will find a stitch chart with how you should work the sides
Repeat row 1 until you have no sts left and the bottom is straight.
Repeat the pattern for the other side too.
Now after completing this step you have a beautiful top already and we will start working on the length of the dress. For the length you will make as many rounds as you need to get to the desired length.
The length will be worked in rounds and you will start the round where your yarn is, on one side of the dress. For the next 2 rounds the pattern is filet st and then you will start to alternate one round in double crochet and one round in filet using triple crochet stitches.
I made for the length 11 rounds. You can also add some of the contrasting colors you want.
After finishing the length, all you have to do is to hide the ends and add a border. I made the border in twisted single crochet, but you can choose any stitch you want.
And this was it. Now I am working on a second dress and I want to make a video tutorial too. Hope you loved this pattern and can’t wait to see your versions.
Below you will also find the video tutorial in case you need any extra help
You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download pdf version of this pattern here:
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)
