Rayas Top. Crochet pattern
I don’t know about you, but I just love left over yarn projects. I always try to find something to do with what I have left and each time I am getting in love with the final item.
It’s all about experimenting and play with whatever colors or yarn you have. I found this so relaxing, because every time when I start a left over yarn project, it’s just about being creative. I am not following any sketches of ideas, I just let my mind and hands go with the flow and this is what I love more about it.
You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:
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And this is how Rayas Top came to life and I am in love with it and it’s one of my favorite designs this summer (Am I saying this with every new design? ????)
Why Rayas Top and what is Rayas? Rayas means in Spanish stripes and because I used yarn from Katia, a Spanish Yarn Brand, I said that a Latin, vibrant word will work great with this top.
The good thing about this design is that you can use any yarn you have left, from DK to worsted weight yarn and even combine them.
I used 3 different types of yarn. 2 of them are in DK category and 1 is worsted weight. You can use even thinner yarn, if you like looser stitches.
So, I invite you to play along, with whatever you have and see what we will get in the end.
Materials you will need
- Category 3 or 4, light, DK weight yarn or worsted weight yarn (it is important to be a light fiber for summer like cotton, or cotton mix
- 4.5 (G+, 7 size) mm crochet hook
- 4 mm (G) hook size for edging and assembling
- Yarn needle for wave in ends
- Scissors
- 1 stitch markers
Notes about design
This pattern requires techniques as single crochet, chain stitches, front post double crochet and back post double crochet.
The entire top is worked in a mesh stitch, but using instead of regular double crochet stitches, front post and back post double crochet.
The top constructions is of 2 panels, back and front joined together using single crochet stitches.
The top can be worked in rounds from bottom to the armpit and then work the back and front separately and join at the end shoulders.
Final Measurements
Final measurements of the top are listed below. All measurements are taken after blocking.
The pattern is available in 8 sizes form S up to 5XL and is written in US terms.
Measurements for sizes M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL are written between brackets.
Neck width a: 26 cm (26, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33)
Bust width b: 49 cm (54, 59, 65, 69, 74, 79, 84)
Length to armpit c: 34 cm (34, 34, 34, 34, 34, 34, 34)
Armhole Depth d: 19 cm (23, 23, 26, 26, 31, 31 ,31)
Length e: 53 cm (57, 57, 60, 60, 65, 65, 65)
This measurements will fit:
| To Fit | S | M | L | XL | 2XL | 3XL | 4XL | 5XL |
| Bust | 86 | 96 | 106 | 116 | 126 | 136 | 146 | 156 |
How much yarn do you need?
For this design I used 3 types of yarn from Katia. You can work with different colors or use just one.
I used SeaCell Cotton in color 102 Pastel Yellow, Concept Veganette by Katia in color 100 – Fawn brown-Mustard and Concept Versailles by Katia in color 90 jeans Silver.
Each ball of yarn has 50 grams and approximate 100 (Versailles), 120 (Seacell cotton) and 140 (veganette) grams.
For each size you will approximate need:
| yarn | S | M | L | XL | 2XL | 3XL | 4XL | 5XL |
| SeaCell | 2 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| Veganette | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
| Versailles | 1 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 |
You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:
You can now have the PDF version with 20% Discount or even for FREE if you want to support ByKaterina on Patreon
Abbreviation used in the pattern
- Ch – chain
- Sc – single crochet
- Fpdc – front post double crochet
- Bpdc – Back Post double crochet
- Fp/Bp dc 2 tog – yarn over, insert the hook around the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (you have 2 loops on tour hook), skip 2 ch sp and repeat one more time around the next available st, yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on your hook.
- St(s) – stitch(es)
- ** – repeated section
- R| – row
Gauge
Notes about the gauge
Before start working on the top make a swatch and wet block it. I recommend wet blocking because the yarn behaves differently and it’s important to see how much you fabric will stretch after blocking.
To give you the gauge, I counted the windows (2 ch spaces) both for stitches and rows
Gauge before blocking:
8 windows in width = 10 cm
9 windows in length = 10 cm
Gauge after blocking
7 windows in width = 10 cm
8 windows in length = 10 cm
Notes about the pattern
For a narrower bottom I started with the number of stitches needed for windows with 1 ch between double crochet stitches. So I needed a multiple of 2+1.For example:
For size S, to get to the width of the top, I needed 34 windows. So my starting chain was 34 x 2 +1 = 69 sts.
Ch 3 at th beginning of each row, counts as first double crochet.
Numbers for sizes M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL are written between brackets. If not, pattern applies for all sizes.
You can adjust the length of the top, by working more rows to the armpit.
Colors are changed at every 3 rows, not counting the foundation row (R1) in single crochet.
Change the color at the end of the row, finishing the last st with the next color you want to use.
Instructions
Front Panel
Start| ch 69 (77, 85, 89, 105, 113, 117)
R1| ch 1, starting witn 2nd st, 1 sc in each st to the end of the row. Ch 5 amd turn.
R2| skip 1 ch st, *1 FPdc in next st, ch 2, skip 1. * Repeat to the end of the row. Finsih the row with 1 dc in 3rd st of the starting ch. Ch 5 and turn.
R3| skip 2ch sp, *1 Bpdc in next st, ch 2, skip 2 ch – sp. * Repeat to the end of the row. Finish the row with 1 dc in the 3rd st of the turning ch. Ch 5 and turn.
R4| skip 2ch – sp, *1 FPdc in the next st, ch 2, skip 2 ch – sp. * Repeat to the end of the row. Finish the row with 1 dc in the 3rd st of the staritng ch. Change the color, ch 5 and turn.
Repeat R3| and R4| to the armpit for 27 rows, not counting the 1st foundation row.
R28| ch 3, skip 2ch-sp,* 1 FPdc in the next st, h 2, skip next 2ch-sp. *Repeat to the end of the row, except last window (1 FPdc, ch 2, turning chain), 1 Fpdc in next st, skip 2ch-sp, 1 dc in the 3rd st of the turning ch. Ch 3 and turn.
R29| skip 2ch sp, *1 Bpdc in next st, ch 2, skip next 2 ch-sp. * Repeat to the end of the row, except last window (1 Bpdc, ch 2, (1 Bpdc , ch 3 turning ch), 1 BPdc 2 tog. Ch 3 and turn.
R30| skip next 2ch-sp, *1 Fpdc in next st, ch 2, skip next 2ch-sp. *Repeat to the end of the row except last window (1 Fpdc, ch 2, Fpdc2tog), 1 Fpdc2tog.
For sizes 2XL
R31| Repeat R28
For sizes 3XL, 4XL, 5XL only
Repeat R29| and R30 until you have 33 rows in total (or 6 since you start decreasing for armpit)
Next, we will start working on the V neck. After decreasing for the armpit you have now in total 28 (32, 36, 38, 40, 40, 44, 46) windows.
Place a stitch marker in the middle st. You should have on the left side and right side 14 (16, 18, 20, 20, 22, 23) windows.
The left and right side will be worked separately and we will call them side A and B
Side A
R31 (31, 31, 31, 32, 34, 34, 34) A
*we will name below the FPdc or BPdc, post st. For size S, M, L, XL will be a FPdc and for sizes 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 4XL will be a BPdc.
Next you will make the stitch post required by your previous rows.
From where you yarn is ch 5, skip next 2 ch-sp, * 1 post st in the next, ch 2, skip next 2ch-sp. Repeat to the end of the row except the last window to the stitch marker, post st 2 tog, ch 3 and turn.
R32 (32, 32, 32, 33, 35, 35, 35) A
Skip next 2 ch-sp, *1 post st in next, ch 2, skip next 2ch – sp. * Repeat to the end of the row. Finish the row with 1 dc in the 3rd st of the starting ch.
Repeat previous 2 rows until you have in total 39 (39, 40, 40, 42, 44, 44, 45) rows.
R40 (41, 41, 43, 45, 45, 46) A| ch 5, skip next 2ch-sp, *1 post st in next, ch 2, skip next 2 ch-sp. Repeat to the end of the row. Finish the row with 1 dc in the 3rd st of the turning ch. Ch 5 and turn.
Repeat previous row until you have in total 42 (45, 45, 48, 48, 52, 52, 52) rows.
Fasten off.
You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:
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Side B
Start| Rejoin the yarn into the marked stitch.
R31 (31, 31, 31, 32, 34, 34, 34) B
Ch 3, skip next 2 ch-sp, *1 post st in next, ch 2, skip next 2ch – sp. * Repeat to the end of the row. Finish the row with 1 dc in the 3rd st of the starting ch. Ch 5 and turn.
R32 (32, 32, 32, 33, 35, 35, 35) B
skip next 2 ch-sp, * 1 post st in the next, ch 2, skip next 2ch-sp. Repeat to the end of the row except the last window to the stitch marker, post st 2 tog, ch 3 and turn.
Repeat previous 2 rows until you have in total 39 (39, 40, 40, 42, 44, 44, 45) rows.
R40 (41, 41, 43, 45, 45, 46) B| ch 5, skip next 2ch-sp, 1 post st in next, ch 2, skip next 2 ch-sp. Repeat to the end of the row. Finish the row with 1 dc in the 3rd st of the turning ch. Ch 5 and turn.
Repeat previous row until you have in total 42 (45, 45, 48, 48, 52, 52, 52) rows.
Fasten off.
Back Panel
Repeat the pattern for the front panel until you have 30 (30, 30, 30, 31, 33, 33, 33) rows.
R31 (31, 31, 31, 32, 34, 34, 34)
ch 5, skip next 2ch-sp, *1 post st in next, ch 2, skip next 2 ch-sp. Repeat to the end of the row. Finish the row with 1 dc in the 3rd st of the turning ch. Ch 5 and turn.
Repeat previous row until you have in total 42 (45, 45, 48, 48, 52, 52, 52) rows.
Fasten off.
Assembling
Before assembling
Step 1
Wave in all ends
Step 2
Chose 1 color (in the sample it’s used pastel yellow) and working on the right side of your work make 1 row edging in sc around both panels. On side rows, work 2 sc in each 3ch – or dc.
*when working in side rows work as many sc as you need, depending on you tension.
Make sure you follow the same pattern and have same number of sc stitches on back as on the front panel.
After making the singe crochet edging, place panels one over the other, facing the wrong side.
Join them on sides and shoulder working single crochet stitches.
*you can simply sew the shoulders and sides without making a single crochet edging. At the end just add an edge on the neck line, arm holes and bottom.
To finish
Wave in all ends and block to measurements.
And the top it’s done and ready to wear and put it aside with your favorite clothes for summer.
As usual, you can find a video tutorial here
You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:
You can now have the PDF version with 20% Discount or even for FREE if you want to support ByKaterina on Patreon
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)