Rainy Cloud Jumper
I am super happy with my Rainy Cloud Jumper because is super comfy, modern and easy to make.
When I decided to make this jumper, was just because I wanted to use some of my old unused yarn. Every time is happening the same: I’m starting a project not having an exactly idea about it and when it’s done I am amazed about the final result.
Pentru Postarea in Limba Romana, click aici
You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download PDF version of this pattern here:
Materials you will need
- Yarn
- Category 3 or 4, light or Medium weight yarn
- Needle
4.5 mm crochet hook (US 7 size)
- You will need a yarn needle for hide in all ends
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Pattern notes
This Rainy Cloud Jumper is over – sized with a positive ease of 11 cm around Bust circumference. IF you want it to have a closer fit, start with less stitches.
This sweater is a top – down sweater. We are working first the cowl and then the yoke. After finishing the yoke we will divide it for body and sleeves.
The working technique is in circular rounds only on the right side of our work.
Chain 3 at the beginning of each round counts as first double crochet.
Start each round between the first V stitch. Slips 1 stitch to get in between the first 2 dc’s and start the round from there. You can also make 1 single crochet between the 2 first dc’s and the ch 2, instead of ch 3.
The pattern is available in 5 sizes, from Small to 2X large and is written in US terms.
All the measurements are in centimeters unless the pattern specified something else.
When is not specified other way, the pattern is applicable for all sizes.
Final measurements
The final measurements are listed in the diagram bellow. The figures are in cm
Neck Line a: 34 cm (36, 40, 43, 47)
Yoke Depth b: 21 cm (24, 28, 28, 32)
Bust Width c: 54 cm (59, 64, 69, 74)
Underarm Length d: 37 cm (37, 39, 39, 40)
Length e: 58 cm (61, 62, 63, 66)
How much yarn do you need?
For this pattern I used We love Yarn from Hobbii, which is 100% acrylic yarn. Each skein has 50 grams and approximate 150 meters.
Photo credit hobbii.com
For each size you will approximate need:
About the stitch pattern
This Rainy Cloud Jumper is worked in V stitch. We will do the V stitch by making 2 double crochet in one single stitch and then skip the next one.
Starting with 2nd round we will make the V stitch in the middle of the V stitches of the previous round.
We will also use sc crochet and twisted single crochet for edging.
Twisted Dc
To make the Twisted Double Crochet, you insert the hook in the next stitch, pull up a loop (keep both loops on hook loose), turn the hook counter clockwise (loops remain on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops.
It can be a little tricky pulling through those loops after the twist, so it’s definitely important to keep both those loops a little bigger than usual before the twist.
Abbreviations used in this pattern
- Ch – chain
- Sc – Single crochet
- Dc – double crochet
- St(s) – stitch(es)
- Inc – increase (2 V st in the same space)
Gauge
5.5 V sts – 10 cm (4”)
8 rows – 10 cm (4”)
You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download PDF version of this pattern here:
Pattern
Cowl
Start with the foundation ch.
- S – 100 sts
- M – 104 sts
- L – 112 sts
- XL – 128 sts
- XXL – 140 sts
Close the ends of the chain with a slip stitch to make a circle.
For all sizes
Round 1
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st, skip the next st, [2 dc (1 V st) in next, skip next st]. Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round. Finish the round with skip last st and join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting chain.
Round 2
Sl st between first 2 dc, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in middle of the previous round V st to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.
Rounds 3 – 20
Repeat round 2. Fasten off.
Yoke
Before starting the yoke turn the cowl on the wrong side. We will keep the cowl on the wrong side, so when is folded to show the right side as the rest of the sweater.
We will start working the yoke from the foundation chain of the cowl.
We will mark the sts in which we will make our corners increases.
We will count the V sts for each section of the yoke: front, back and sleeve.
S – 18 V sts for back and front, 5 V sts for the sleeves
M – 19 V sts for back and front, 5 V sts for the sleeves
L – 21 V sts for back and front, 5 V sts for the sleeves
XL – 23 V sts for back and front, 7 V sts for the sleeves
XXL – 25 V sts for back and front, 8 V sts for the sleeves.
Round 1
The numbers for the sizes M, L, XL and XXL are written between brackets.
We will work the V sts, between the V sts of the first round of the cowl, but the sts will be reversed this time.
Inset the yarn ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in next 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) V sts, 1 Inc in next V st ( 2 V sts meaning 4 dc), 1 V st in next 5 (5, 5, 7, 8) V sts, 1 Inc in next, 1 V st in next 18 (19, 21, 23, 25) V sts, 1 Inc in next, 1 V st in next 5 (5, 5, 7, 8) V sts, 1 Inc in next, 1 V st in last 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) V sts and join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting ch.
Round 2
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in each V st around. We are not increasing on this round.
Before start the 3rd round, mark the first V st of each corner increase.
Round 3
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space,[ 1 V st in each V st until the first st of the next corner, 1 Inc ]. Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round, join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.
Round 4
Repeat round 2 (round without increase)
Round 5
Before starting round 5, mark the second st of the corner and this will be the V st in which you will have to increase on this round.
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space,[ 1 V st in each V st until the 2nd st of the next corner, 1 Inc ]. Repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round, join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.
Next, we will repeat rounds 2 to 5 until we will finish the yoke. The idea of the yoke is that we will alternate 1 round with increases one round without and we will make the increase one round in the 1st st of the corner and one round in the 2nd st of the corner.
You will have in total for the yoke:
- S – 12 rounds
- M – 14 rounds
- L – 16 rounds
- XL – 16 Rounds
- XXL – 18 rounds
The last round of the yoke will be a round without increasing.
Body
Before starting working on the actual Body part of the Rainy Cloud Jumper we will have to make first the separating round.
To be easier to see which stitches we are skipping for the sleeves, we will use stitch markers to mark the stitches for back and front.
In each corner you have 2 V stitches. Starting with the beginning of the round, count the stitches until the first stitch of the corner and put the stitch marker. The second stitch marker will be placed in the second stitch of the next corner. The 3rd stitch marker will be placed in the 1st st of the next corner and the last stitch marker will be placed in the second stitch of the last corner.
Now that we have all the stitch markers in place we can start the separating round.
Separating round
Start the round as usual and make 1 V st in each V st until you get to the 1st stitch marker, make 1 V stitch in the marked stitch, then ch 9, skip the sts for the sleeve and make 1 V st in the 2nd marked stitch. Continue with one V st in each V st to the 3rd marked st and make 1 V st here, ch 9, skip the sts for the sleeve and make your next V st in the 4th marked st. Continue with 1 V st in each V st to the end of the round and join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting chain.
Body
Round 1
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in each V st until the underarm ch, [skip 1 st, 1 V st in next] and repeat the section between [ ] until you have 4 V sts in the underarm ch. Continue with 1 V st in each st until you get to the 2nd underarm ch and proceed the same as at the first one. Continue with 1 V st in each V st to the end of the round and join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting chain.
Round 2
Ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in each V st around. Join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting ch.
Next, repeat round 2, until you will have the desired length of the sweater or until you have in total 33 rounds (for all sizes).
After finishing the body length you will have to add the edging. Go to the Edging section of the pattern!
Sleeves
The sleeves are worked also in rounds. There are no decreases on the sleeves unless you want to do so.
Round 1
Insert the yarn at the armpit, ch 3, 1 dc in the same space, 1 V st in each V st around. Join with a sl st with 3rd st of the starting chain.
Next, repeat round 1, making 1 V st in each V st around until you have the desired length, or until you have in total:
S – 27 rounds
M – 27 rounds
L – 30 Rounds
XL – 30 rounds
XXL – 31 rounds
After finishing the sleeve length add the edging.
Edging
You can add any edging you will like to finish your Rainy Cloud Jumper.
The edging will be made at the end of the sleeves, hem and collar.
Round 1
On the right side
Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in each st around. Join with a sl st with first sc.
Round 2
Repeat round 1.
Round 3
On the wrong side
Ch 1 and turn, 1 sc in the same st, 1 twisted sc in each st around. Join with a sl st with first sc.
Fasten Off.
To finish, wave in all ends and done!
You can purchase the add free, easy printable, instant download PDF version of this pattern here:
If you want to see how I made this sweater, you can watch the video here
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)
