March 2019 most viewed pattern
With this post we are continuing the most viewed patterns series and March 2019 most viewed pattern is again My precious sweater. No wonder since this pattern became so popular and I have seen so many gorgeous version of it, even more beautiful then the original.

You can download only today the free pdf from Ravelry or from My shop.
The idea of this sweater came from no where. I had the yarn for long time ago before even thinking that will end up in a gorgeous sweater. Some day I saw a similar sweater in a shop and I said to myself :Ok, this is beautiful and I can do it in crochet”.
So I came back home, grab some yarn and started. Everything worked so well that I was super excited with the sweater after just a few rounds. After posting the picture on Instagram and saw all your reactions I new that will be a great project.

My Precious Sweater pattern is not that hard to make even if it’s looking like so. Ones you get the idea of the pattern is easy to follow and you don’t want to let it down. It’s a top-down sweater made with the Raglan technique. We are starting from the neck, making first the yoke and then we will separate the sleeves from the body of the sweater and work the 3 parts individually.
The sweater is designed over – sized so if you want a closer fit you will have to size down. The pattern is available for sizes from S to 2X large and is written in US terms. In the pattern you will find a stitch chart, measurement diagram and all the details to help you make it.
Let’s see now some Q&A’s. Maybe you will get the answers on some concerns you have after you first saw the pattern.
Q: Why my stitches are off even if I’m following the pattern exactly?
A: Well this thing happens even if you are more experimented in this field and you don’t have to give up. When I was working at this pattern I was thinking how to make the Diamonds stitch to work in a yoke. So, I count the sts that I need for each side of the yoke (back, front, sleeves) and I saw this parts as individual. So this is what you should do too. Follow the stitch pattern on each side without thinking at the sweater as a hole project. Just think that each side is small project and you have to make the diamond stitch with the given stitches.
Take in mind that every time, before and after corner you will have an window. With every round, the windows of the previous round are becoming sts and the first and last stitch of a diamond motif become an window (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc)
Q: Why the sleeves are so large? I don’t like them like this.
A: Well like I said the sweater is designed over – sized. To have it like this I made a longer yoke and off course that after working more rounds on yoke the sleeves become larger as well. AS a solution you can make less rounds on the yoke. Also you can start with less sts for sleeve, but you will have to take into consideration that the pattern requires multiple of 10 + 1 sts.
Q: Why if I want to make the sweater in Large size the stitches are not matching?
A: If you want to make the sweater in a larger size like Large, 1X large or 2X Large, you will have to start the sweater with round 2 (for Large and 1X Large) and with round 3 for 2X large. Instead of starting with sets of 9 dc +1 window you will have to start with sets of 7 dc and 2 windows and sets of 5 dc, 1 window, 3 dc, 1 window.
Q: How can I make the sweater larger without making the sleeves larger too?
When working the working with the raglan technique, increasing in the corners, we are increasing the number of stitches for the body and for the sleeves as well. If you want to make the body larger, but keeping the sleeves as they are in the pattern, you can adjust the number of stitches for back and front side. One method is to start with more stitches for these sides. For example for size S the pattern had 31 sts for back and front meaning 3 diamond motifs. You can start with 4 diamonds, meaning 41 sts.
Another method is to add on the back and front more sts, but only for the windows. We are making the windows by ch 1, skip 1, one dc in next and you can add one more st and making the windows with ch 2, skip 2, 1 dc in next.
For example for size S, we have on the first round 4 windows. If we making them with 2 sts, this means that we will have with 4 sts more. So we will have to start with 35 sts instead of 31. This will make the body larger and without increasing the sleeves as well.
And these ware the questions that I received since the pattern was live and I hope with the answers I clarified some aspects of this pattern, but if you have some more I will happily will help you as fast as I can.
Now if you want the pdf version of this pattern, you can find it on Ravelry or My shop. It’s listed for free and no code is needed. The offer will be available until April 1, 10 AM CET. The pdf pattern is available in English and Dutch.
Below you will find a video tutorial which I hope it will give you some extra help if needed.
Have fun making this beautiful sweater and use @bykaterinacrochet when posting photos on social media. I will be more then happy to see them
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)


3 Comments
Sharon
Neither one of these patterns on Ravelry or Your Shop are free. You still need a code and this is supposed to be good until April 10 and I can’t get it today as you have posted.
Bykaterina
This was posted on March 31 and the offer was available until 1 of April, 10 AM, CET. Is written in the blog post. Sorry for missing it. Maybe next time ????
Maura McFall
I would love this pattern next time it is available please.