Marble Blouse
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The Add Free, Easy printable, instant download pdf version of this pattern is available in my shop
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I am so glad to share with you my new Marble Blouse crochet pattern. I hope it will be another pattern that you love and one more piece in my Diy Fashion Journey.
Pentru Postarea in limba romana click aici
Voor het patroon in het nederlands,klik hier
Pretty cool how this Marble Blouse of mine can be worn in 2 different ways. Isn’t it?
About the Design
Well, we are playing again with this top-down, raglan technique. I really love it, because you can work one sweater, blouse, top almost in one single piece, so ones you got it I’m sure that you won’t make top garments in other way.
Ok, we will start the Marble Blouse from the top, working the yoke part, then separate the sleeves from the body and work the 3 parts individually. To obtain this V Neck shape we will increase while making the front panels, and keep increasing until we will get to the desired length. We will keep increasing so the 2 front panels to cross each other.
The sleeves are worked in rounds. No, decreases needed.
About materials we will need
- Yarn
I used Rainbow Cotton Stone Washed from Hobbii. It’s a fingering, 4 ply, super fine yarn made from 100% soft and natural fiber. Each skein has
- Needles
4 mm (G US size)
Tapestry needle for hiding ends
- Scissors
- optional 4 stitch markers to mark the 4 corners of the yoke
photo from hobbii.com
This Pattern is available for sizes from S to XXL and is written in US terms.
The final measurement of the Marble Blouse for each size are listed in the diagram bellow. On the first line are the values in cm and on the second one the values in inches.
How much yarn do you need:
S – 275 grams / 935 m/ 1020 yds ( 6 skeins)
M – 300 grams /1010 m / 1100 yds (6 skeins)
L – 320 grams /1081 m /1180 yds (7 skeins)
XL – 340 grams /1150 m / 1250 yds (7 skeins)
XXL – 360 grams / 1220 m / 1330 yds (8 skeins)
*i used the colors randomly so no pattern for the colors. I just took one skein and worked it to the end then pick another. i used a solid color for the border for contouring and a final touch.
The Add Free, Easy printable, instant download pdf version of this pattern is available in my shop
About the Stitch
All the Marble Blouse is worked in double crochet. The border is made in single crochet and twisted single crochet.
Bellow you will find the stitch chart with the beginning of the yoke. The chart is representing the stitch number for sizes S and M. For other sizes just follow the chart, but take into consideration that you will have more stitches.
Abbreviations used in this pattern
Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
Sc – single crochet
St(s) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Inc C – increase in corners (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc in the same st)
Inc E – increase on the front panels edges (2 dc in the same st)
Gauge
16 dc = 10 cm (4″)
9 rows = 10 cm (4″)
*it’s important to get to the sts gauge because here is all the math of the pattern. If you are not getting to the rows gauge don’t change the crochet hook size. Keep working because the rows will stretch after working more.
The Add Free, Easy printable, instant download pdf version of this pattern is available in my shop
Ok, with these all details, we can now start to make this beautiful Marble Blouse.
Yoke
Foundation Chain:
S – 86 sts ( 6 for front panels, 20 for sleeves, 30 for back panel plus 4 for corners)
M – 86 sts ( 6 for front panels, 20 for sleeves, 30 for back panel plus 4 for corners)
L – 94 sts ( 7 for front panels, 22 for sleeves, 32 for back panel plus 4 for corners)
XL – 94 sts ( 7 for front panels, 22 for sleeves, 32 for back panel plus 4 for corners)
XXL – 102 sts ( 8 for front panels, 24 for sleeves, 34 for back panel plus 4 for corners)
Row 1
*the numbers for sizes M, L, XL and XXL are between brackets
Ch 2, 1 dc in the 3rd st, 1 dc in next 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) sts, 1 Inc C in next st (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc), 1 dc in next 20 (20, 22, 22, 24) sts, 1 inc C in next, 1 dc in next 30 (30, 32, 32, 34) sts, 1 Inc C in next st, 1 dc in next 20 (20, 22, 22, 24) sts, 1 Inc C in next st, 1 dc in next 6 (6, 7,7,8) sts. Ch 2 and turn.
Row 2
1 dc in the 1st st, [1 dc in the next sts to the corner (the ch 2 space), 1 inc C in the corner]. Repeat to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn
Row 3
1 Inc E ( 2 dc in the same st) in the 1st dc,[ 1 dc in the next sts to the corner, 1 Inc C in the corner]. Repeat to the end of the row, ending the row with 1 Inc E in the last st.
Rows 4, 5
Repeat row 2.
Repeat rows 3, 4, 5 until you will get to the end of the yoke. Remember that you have to make 2 rows with no increases, except the ones in corners and one row increasing at the beginning and at the end of the rows.
Keep working until you will have in total:
S – 19 rows
M – 23 rows
L – 27 rows
XL – 31 rows
XXL – 34 rows
Body
Starting with the first row of the body and the separating row, we will increase at every beginning and end of the row. Doesn’t matter which row you have the previous, the first row of the body will be with increases and the one that are about to come also.
Row 1
1 Inc E in first st, 1 dc in each st until you get to the first corner, 1 partial dc in corner, skip the sts for the sleeve to the next corner, 1 partial dc in the next corner, yarn over and pull the yarn through all 3 loops on your hook. Continue with 1 dc in each st to the next corner. Here we will proceed the same as in the opposite side. Continue with 1 dc in each st, until you get to the last one, in the last st 1 Inc E. Ch 2 and turn
Row 2
1 Inc E in the first st, 1 dc in each st until you get to the last st, 1 inc E in the last st.
Repeat row 2 until you get to the desired length. pay attention that the front panels will cross one over the other, and their corners has to reach maximum the side edge of the blouse. Make as many rows as you want or:
S – 22 rows
M – 24 rows
L, XL, XXL – 22 rows
The last row of the body part will be worked in round and we will have to join the 2 front panels on the overlapping portion. We will do the joining by making the dc into the sts of the both sides.
Sleeves
Insert the hook and yarn at the armpit and start the round from there.
Row 1
Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st with first dc. Ch 2 and turn
Repeat row 1 until you get to the desired length of the sleeve or until you have in total:
S – 22 rows
M – 24 rows
L – 26 rows
XL – 28 rows
XXL – 30 rows
You can let the sleeve as it is or you can add the next 3 rounds with a contrasting color
- ch 1, 1 sc in the same st, 1 sc in each st around. join with a sl st with first sc.
- ch 1, 1 sc in the same st, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next. Repeat the section to the end of the round. Join with sl st with first sc.
- ch 1, 1 sc in the same st, 1 twisted sc in each st around (insert the hook into the st, pull out a loop, twist your hook 180 degrees, yarn over annd pull the yarn through the twisted loops on your hook.
Add with the same contrasting color that you used for the 3 rounds at the end of the sleeves to make an border in the rest of the parts of the marble blouse. I made the border with 1 row in sc, 1 row in twisted sc. I started with one front panel edge, continuing with the neck line then with the opposite front panel edge. Then turn and make one more row in twisted sc.
On the bottom edge make the same 2 rows.
And this was it with the Marble Blouse.
Can’t wait to see yours. Don’t forget to follow me in Instagram or Facebook to find out about new other patterns that are about to come.
If you are making this Marble Blouse or any other of my designs, tag @bykaterincrochet to be featured. I love to see your work.
Bellow you will also find the video tutorial that will give you a visual version of this pattern. Enjoy!
https://nl.pinterest.com/katerina6795/free-crochet-patterns/
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)
2 Comments
Jessica
Hi I’ve never used 4ply before.
What would happen if I used DK instead with this pattern, do you think I could use a different wool or stick with 4 ply. I do like the stone wash hobbi wool though. I love your patterns x
Bykaterina
I think you can use a dk yarn with the same crochet size. You don’t have to stick with the yarn.