Lava Pullover. Crochet Pattern
I started working on the Lava Pullover prototype last year in February. I used leftover yarn, different fibers, and weights, and I loved the result. But I didn’t have time to finish that first sample, maybe because I cut the yarn at every round, and there were so many ends to weave in. Don’t get me wrong, I got over being “scared” about weaving the ends, but I think I stopped working on it because I felt that nobody would like to try a sweater/top like this with so many ends.

You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also for the yoke section for all sizes.
Even so, I didn’t want to give up on this project because I loved it so much. So I started working on a second sample at the end of the summer. I had a few skeins of Marathon 3.5 by Katia, and I said to try again. And here is how I ended up with the Lava Pullover.

Picking the name was a funny story. Sometimes when I don’t have ideas, I ask even my husband or daughter to tell me the first word that comes into their heads when seeing the project. Sometimes, I stick with that word or try to find some other related to it. This time my husband said “lava,” and I loved it.
Now, let’s see how you can make a Lava Pullover
MATERIALS
- Yarn: DK weight yarn, size 3
Crochet Hook: - 6.5 mm crochet hook
- 5 or 5.5 mm crochet hook for the ribbing
- yarn needle for weaving in ends
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
The Lava Pullover has a top-down construction with a round yoke. It has a relaxed fit with a positive ease of about 18 cm around the bust circumference.
The sweater is worked in the round, only on the right side. Along the yoke section, there are several increases according to the needed yoke depth, bust, and sleeve circumference.
The yoke is then divided into sleeves and Body. The 3 parts are then worked individually until completing the desired length.
Work a single crochet in the back loop, ribbing on the bottom hem, and cuffs to finish the sweater.
For neckline finishing, work one round in twisted single crochet.
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Lava Pullover Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from Extra Small to 5X Large.
The model is 168 cm tall and wears a size Small.
*Neckline width a: 22 cm (22, 22, 22, 24, 24, 27, 27, 29)
Yoke depth b: 21 cm (22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29)
Bust width c: 50 cm (53, 55.5, 59, 62.5, 67.5, 72.5, 77.5, 82.5)
Sleeve circ. d: 31 cm (32, 34, 35, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51)
Sleeve Length e: 37 cm (36, 36, 36, 35, 35, 36, 36, 37)
Length f: 52 cm (53, 54, 55, 57, 58, 60, 61, 62)
How much yarn do you need?
I used Marathon 3.5 by Katia Yarns. The yarn composition is 75% acrylic and 25% WoolOne 1 skein has 50 grams and is approximately 125 meters.
The colors I used: 40 (Bubble Gum), 4 (Red), 39 (Orange), 12 (Dark Grey),
10 (Light Grey), 2 (Black), For each size, you will need:
Bubble Gum: 1 ( 1, 1, 1 ) ( 1, 1, 1, 1, 1.5) skeins
Red: 1 ( 1, 1, 1 ) ( 1, 1, 1, 1, 1.5)
Orange 1 ( 1, 1, 1 ) ( 1, 1, 1, 1, 1)
Light Grey: 2 (2, 2, 2) (3, 3, 3, 3, 3)
Dark Grey: 2 (2, 2, 2) (3, 3, 3, 3, 3)
Black: 3 (3, 3, 3) (4, 4, 4, 5, 5)
You will need approximately 925 (925, 1075, 1150, 1250, 1400, 1500, 1600, 1725) meters.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also for the yoke section for all sizes.

ABBREVIATIONS
Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
ss -slip stitch
scblo – single crochet in back loop only
tsc – twisted single crochet
ch-sp – chain space
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rows/rounds
TENSION
Using a 6.5 mm crochet hook in linen stitch
12.5 sts = 10 cm
13.5 rows = 10cm
STITCH PATTERNS AND TECHNIQUES
The main pattern is Linen Stitch, or Moss stitch worked in the round.
R1: *1sc, 1ch, skip 1st; *rep. to the end of the round. To close the round slip stitch into the first sc.
R2: 2ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next *1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next st; *rep. to the end of the round. To close the round, slip the stitch into the first ch.
Work a single crochet in the back loop for cuffs and bottom hem ribbing.
R1: 1sc in each st.
R2: 1scblo in back loop only.
Rep R2 until the desired length.
The ribbing is joined as you go with the bottom hem and sleeves edge. See the steps in the RIBBING section.
To finish the neckline, work one round in Twisted Single crochet (sc)
Insert the hook into indicated st, yarn over, pull out a loop, twist your hook clockwise, 180 degrees, yarn over, and pass it through both twisted loops.
PATTERN NOTES
- Work the piece in the round only on the right side;
- close each round with an invisible slip stitch – remove the hook from the working loop; insert the hook from back to front into the first st (single crochet or chain); grab the working loop and pass it through.
- if the round starts with a single crochet, it will finish with 1ch; the next round will start with 2ch (the first ch won’t count as a single crochet; it will be part of the last sc) and will end up with an sc.
- when starting with an sc, don’t work 1ch. Start directly with an sc;
- the pattern below is written without a color pattern; The color pattern is 1 round in black, next round in dark grey, next round in light grey, and next round in one of the colors pink/red/orange. Change the last color with every color pattern repeat;
- carry on the 3 colors, black, dark grey, and light grey, and cut the 4th color.
- Change the color after making the invisible slip stitch; take the new color and pass through the working loop to have a new loop; pull the previous color until the loop is closed.
- At the end of this document, you will find stitch charts for each size; the stitch chart represents one repeated section into the YOKE pattern; follow the stitch pattern from right to left every round.
INSTRUCTIONS
YOKE
For the yoke, we will follow an increasing pattern. To make it easier to understand, think about 1sc, 1ch as a stitch combo and remember that with every increase round, you will have with (1sc, 1ch) more between increases than on the previous increase round.
YOKE SIZES XS, S, M, L, XL, 4XL
The numbers are written as XS (S, M, L, XL, 4XL)
Start each round as explained above;
On the increase round, when the repeated section starts with 1ch, start the round with 2ch; the second ch will be part of the repeated section.
Sts between ( ) are worked into the same st/space. Sts between [ ] are repeated patterns.
Start: ch 54 (54, 54, 60, 60, 72); slip stitch to make a circle
R1: *1sc, 1ch, skip 1st; *rep. to the end of the round;
R2 (Inc): 2ch, skip 1st, *(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) into the next st, [1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next st] x 2 times*; rep. from * to * 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 12) times.
Total sts: 72 (72, 72, 80, 80, 96)
R3: Rep. R1
R4: 2ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next, *1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next; *rep. to the end of the round
R5: rep. R1
R6 (Inc): *[1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next] x 3 times, 1ch, skip 1st, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st*; Rep. from * to * 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 12) times.
Total sts: 90 (90, 90, 100, 100, 120)
R7: rep. R1
R8: Rep. R4
R9: Rep. R1
R10: Rep. R4
R11 (Inc): *(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x 4 times*. Rep. from * to * 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 12) times.
Total sts: 108 (108, 108, 120, 120, 144)
R12: Rep. R4
R13: Rep. R1
R14: Rep. R4
R15: Rep. R1
R16: (Inc): *[1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next] x 5 times, 1ch, skip 1st, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st*; Rep. from * to * 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 12) times.
Total sts: 126 (126, 126, 140, 140, 168)
R17:Rep. R1
R18: Rep. R4
R19: Rep. R1
R20: Rep. R4
R21: (Inc): *(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x 6 times*. Rep. from * to * 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 12) times.
Total sts: 144 (144, 144, 160, 160, 192)
R22: Rep. R4
R23: Rep. R1
R24: Rep. R4
R25: Rep. R1

Size XS only
R26 (Inc): *[1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next] x 23 times, 1ch, skip 1st, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st*; rep from *to* 3 times.
Total sts: 150
R27: Rep. R1
R28: Rep. R4
For size XS, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section.
Continuing the YOKE Sizes S (M, L, XL, 4XL).
R26 (Inc): *[1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next] x 7 times, 1ch, skip 1st, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st*; Rep. from * to *9 (9, 10, 10, 12) times.
Total sts: 162 ( 162, 180, 180, 216)
R27:Rep. R1
R28: Rep. R4
R29: Rep. R1
R30: Rep. R4
For size S, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section.
Size M Only
R31: (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x 15 times*; Rep. from * to * 5 times; To finish the round work 1sc, 1ch, skip last st.
Total sts: 172
For size M, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section.
Size L Only
R31: Rep. R1
R32: Rep. R4
Total sts: 180
For size L, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section.
Continuing the YOKE Sizes XL (4XL).
R31: (Inc): *(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x 8 times*. Rep. from * to *10 (12)times.
Total sts: 200 (240)
R32: Rep. R4
R33: Rep. R1
Size XL Only
R34: (Inc): *[1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next] x 19 times, 1ch, skip 1st, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st*; Rep. from * to * 5 times
Total sts: 210
For size XL, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
Size 4XL Only
R34: Rep. R4
R35: Rep. R1
R36 (Inc): *[1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next] x 9 times, 1ch, skip 1st, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st*; Rep. from * to * 12 times.
Total sts: 264
R37: Rep. R1
R38: Rep. R4
For size 4XL, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also for the yoke section for all sizes.

YOKE SIZES 2XL, 3XL, and 5XL.The numbers are written as 2XL (3XL, 5XL)
Start: ch 60 (66, 72); slip stitch to make a circle.
R1:*1sc, 1ch, skip 1st; *rep. to the end of the round;
R2(Inc): 2ch, skip 1st, *(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) into the next st, [1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next st] x 2 times*; rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12) times.
Total sts: 80 (88, 96)
R3:Rep. R1
R4: 2ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next, *1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in next; *rep. to the end of the round
R5 (Inc): *[1sc, 1ch, skip next st] x 3 times, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) into the next st, 1ch, skip 1st*.
rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12) times.
Total sts: 100 (110, 120)
R6: Rep. R4
R7: Rep. R1
R8: Rep. R4
R9 (Inc): *(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x 4 times*
rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12) times.
Total sts: 120 (132, 144)
R10: Rep. R4
R11: Rep. R1
R12: Rep. R4
R13 (Inc): *[1sc, 1ch, skip next st] x 5 times, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) into the next st, 1ch, skip 1st*.
rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12) times
Total sts: 140 (154, 168)
R14: Rep. R4
R15: Rep. R1
R16: Rep. R4
R17(Inc):*(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x 6 times*
rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12) times.
Total sts: 160 (176, 192)
R18: Rep. R4
R19: Rep. R1
R20: Rep. R4
R21 (Inc): *[1sc, 1ch, skip next st] x 7 times, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) into the next st, 1ch, skip 1st*.rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12)times.
Total sts: 180 (198, 216)
R22: Rep. R4
R23: Rep. R1
R24: Rep. R4
R25(Inc):*(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x 8 times*;rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12) times.
Total sts: 200 (220, 240)
R26: Rep. R4
R27: Rep. R1
R28: Rep. R4
R29 (Inc): *[1sc, 1ch, skip next st] x 9 times, (1sc, 1ch, 1sc) into the next st, 1ch, skip 1st*.rep. from * to * 10 (11, 12) times.
Total sts: 220 (242, 264)
R30: Rep. R4
R31: Rep. R1
R32: Rep. R4
Size 2XL Only
R33 (Inc):(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x21 times*. Rep. from *to* 5 times
Total sts: 230
R34: Rep. R4
R35: Rep. R1
For size 2XL, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
Size 3XL Only
R33 (Inc):(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x39 times*. Rep. from *to* 3 times; Finish the round with 1ch, skip 1st, 1sc in the last st.
Total sts: 248
R34: Rep. R4
R35: Rep. R1
R36: Rep. R4
For size 3XL, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
Size 5XL Only
R33 (Inc):(1sc, 1ch, 1sc) in the next st, 1ch, skip 1st, [1sc in next st, 1ch, skip 1st] x10 times*. Rep. from *to* 12 times;
Total sts: 288
R34: Rep. R4
R35: Rep. R1
R36: Rep. R4
R37: Rep. R1
R38: Rep. R4
R39: Rep. R1
For size 5XL, the YOKE is done. Move to the BODY section
Summarize the YOKE section
Number of rows: 28 (30, 31, 32, 34, 35, 36, 38, 39)
Number of sts: 150 (162, 172, 180, 210, 230, 248, 264, 288)

BODY
When starting with the Body and separating the YOKE into sleeves and Body, the stitch pattern will repeat 1sc, 1ch, skip 1st or 1ch, skip 1st, 1sc. It depends on the size you are making.
Use 4 stitch markers to mark the back, front, and sleeves sts.
All 4 section needs a multiple of 2 sts
Back: 48 (52, 56, 60, 62, 70, 78, 82, 92) sts
Sleeves: 26 (28, 30, 30, 42, 44, 46, 50, 52) sts
Front: 50 (54, 56, 60, 65, 72, 78, 82, 92) sts
R1 (separating round):
Start from where your yarn is. The first section will be the back panel, so the first st will be next to the left sleeve.
Work in established pattern 48 (52, 56, 60, 62, 70, 78, 82, 92) sts, ch 15 (13, 13, 15, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13) sts, skip 26 (28, 30, 30, 42, 44, 46, 50, 52) sts, work in the established pattern 50 (54, 56, 60, 65, 72, 78, 82, 92) sts, ch 15 (13, 13, 15, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13) sts, skip 26 (28, 30, 30, 42, 44, 46, 50, 52)sts, and slip stitch with the first st.
Continue in the established pattern until you get to the desired length or until you have 34 (34, 34, 42, 42, 42, 58, 58, 58)
rows for the body
SLEEVES
Rejoin yarn at the armpit in one of the 1ch-sp.
Work in the established pattern until you get to the desired length or until you have
41 (42, 42, 45, 45, 46, 46, 48, 48) rows.
If you want to shape the sleeves, you can make some decreases.
dec: 2sc worked together; instead of working 1sc, 1ch, skip 1st, 1sc, you will work sc2tog.
RIBBING
Work the ribbing around the bottom hem and sleeves using a smaller hook (5.5 mm or smaller)
Start: rejoin yarn and ch11
R1: start in the second st, 1sc in each of the next 10sts, 1ss into the next 2sts of the bottom hem/sleeves edge; turn
R2: 1scblo in next 10sts, 1ch and turn
R3: 1scblo in each of the next 10sts, 1ss in next 2sts of the bottom hem/sleeves edge; turn
Rep. R2 and R3 until you complete the entire circumference.
Use slip stitches to join the ribbing edges.
To finish the neckline, work one round in twisted single crochet (see the STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES section)
Weave in all ends and block to measurements.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below. The PDF contains stitch charts also for the yoke section for all sizes.

And you are done! You can find a video tutorial on my YouTube channel if you need visual help with making this sweater. You can click the image below.
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)

