From Yarn to Wear: Easy Steps to Your New Favorite Sweater! Tunisian Crochet Pattern
It has been a long time since I last created something using the Tunisian crochet technique. Without the generosity of my friend at Knit Pro, who sent me a set of beautiful Tunisian crochet hooks, this project might never have come to life.
I absolutely love how this Suri Breeze Sweater turned out, despite its simple drop-shoulder construction. It’s incredibly wearable, which is what I appreciate the most. While the color isn’t one of my favorites, sometimes you just have to work with what you have. And if you love the sweater enough, you’ll also learn to embrace the color—red, in my case—or any other shade outside your usual palette
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
Now, let me guide you through the process of making this sweater. In the instructions below, you’ll also find tips on adjusting the pattern if you choose a different yarn or hook size, as these changes can affect your gauge.
If you ever find yourself stuck, be sure to check out my step-by-step video tutorial on my YouTube channel for extra guidance
MATERIALS
- Yarn: *Size 3 , DK weight yarn (more details into the YARN section)
- Crochet Hook:
o 8 mm tunisian crochet hook with **cable
**I used a 40 cm cable, but a smaller one will also work as the stitches don’t need to be evenly spread along the cable.
o 4 mm crochet hook for cuffs, bottom hem and collar - yarn needle for weaving in ends
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
The Suri Breeze Sweater is designed with a relaxed drop-shoulder construction, featuring approximately 16 cm of positive ease around the bust for a comfortable fit. The sweater is worked in sections, with the back and front panels crafted separately before being joined at the shoulders. The sleeves are worked seamlessly from the top down, starting at the armholes. To assemble the sweater, simply sew the side edges from the sleeve cuffs to the bottom hem. Finally, a stretchy border is added to the cuffs, hem, and collar to complete the look.
Using thinner yarn with a larger Tunisian crochet hook gives the Suri Breeze Sweater its remarkable lightweight quality. Although Tunisian crochet typically results in a denser fabric, opting for a larger hook creates a soft, flowy texture. Initially, I didn’t expect to size up so much, but after experimenting, I found that an 8 mm hook achieved the perfect drape and feel.
For the sample, I used Suri Alpaca by Lang Yarns, a 100% Suri alpaca yarn. This yarn has a subtle sheen and a wavy texture, giving it an irregular yet charming appearance. While this is the yarn featured in the sample, you are free to substitute with other fibers. Be sure to swatch first to ensure the fabric’s texture and drape meet your expectations.
The instructions include guidance on how to adjust the pattern, making it easier to create a wearable sweater tailored to your size and preferences. By following these tips and recommendations, you’ll achieve a beautifully crafted garment that you’ll love to wear.
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Suri Sweater Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with a 88 cm bust circumference, and wears a size Extra Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL);
Final Measurements of the Suri Breeze Sweater
*Neck Circ. a: 51 cm (51, 51, 51) (51, 55, 55, 55, 55)
Bust Circ. b: 98 cm (102, 110, 113), (124, 135, 142, 153, 164)
Sleeve Circ. c: 43 cm (45, 46, 49) (51, 52, 54,56, 59)
Sleeve Length d: 37 cm (39, 41, 41) (42, 42, 43, 43, 43)
Length e: 55 cm (55, 55, 55) (56, 56, 57,57, 57)
*the neckline circ. is measured after the ribbing; it can be adjusted while working on the front panel
YARN
For the Suri Breeze Sweater, I used:Suri Alpaca by Lang Yarns, in color 61, Dark Red.
Yarn composition: 100% Suri Alpaca; Each skein has 25 grams and is approximately 100 meters. This specific yarn features a thin wire-like core surrounded by a soft fluff. While it is listed as Medium Weight, Category 4, it is noticeably lighter in feel. For a similar fabric, the best yarn substitutions would be two strands of mohair held together or one strand of fingering-weight yarn paired with one strand of mohair.
If mohair or fluffy yarns aren’t your preference or you find them itchy, you can substitute with different fibers. Keep in mind, however, that while the pattern will still work, the fabric’s look and feel may differ.
I was also able to achieve the same gauge using an 8 mm Tunisian crochet hook and a DK-weight superwash merino, offering another versatile option for yarn substitution.For each size, you will approximately need: 880 (940, 1015, 1055) (1160, 1230,1320, 1400, 1490) meters
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet
bpdc – back post double crochet
TKS – Tunisian Knit stitch
TS – Tunisian stitch
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – row
** – repeated section.
TENSION
Using 8 mm tunisian crochet hook in TKS stitch pattern
Before Blocking
12sts = 10 cm
14 rows = 10 cm
After Blocking
11sts = 10cm
13 rows = 10cm
STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES
Tunisian Knit Stitch (TKS)
The primary stitch pattern used in the Suri Breeze Sweater is the Tunisian Knit Stitch
To begin a Tunisian Knit Stitch, chain the number of sts the pattern requires. This is your foundation for the following rows.
To begin the first row, insert your hook into the single loop on the underside of the 2nd ch from the hook. Yarn over (YO) and draw up a loop. Notice that before you do this, you already have one loop on your hook. This first loop counts as the first stitch and so you do not work into the first chain from the hook, but the second.
Continue to draw up a loop from the back of each stitch until you reach the end of the row. The action of drawing up a loop from each stitch in a Tunisian row is referred to as the Forward Pass, and counts as half of a row. (A single Tunisian row is composed of a Forward Pass and a Return Pass).
Now that you’ve got all your loops on the hook, it’s time to work them back off with the Return Pass.
YO and draw through ONE loop. Every Return Pass in TKS crochet begins this way. Don’t forget it! All the other loops are worked off in two’s.
YO and draw through TWO loops. Repeat yarning over and drawing through TWO loops until you reach the end of the row.
To begin the row of TKS, insert the hk through the center of the next stitch – between the two sides of the loop from the row below, and under the chain made by the return pass. Emerge the hook on the back side of the work.
Yarn over and draw up a loop. Repeat across the row.
The stitches should look like knit stitches, hence the name.
The return pass is worked the same as with TSS. To begin the return pass, YO and draw through ONE loop.
YO and draw through TWO loops. Repeat across the row.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
INSTRUCTIONS
BACK PANEL
Working the Back Panel (Bottom-Up):
If you’d like to use a different yarn or hook size, and adjust the number of stitches to match your gauge, follow these steps:
Step 1: Make a gauge swatch in the TKS pattern and measure the number of sts and rows within a 10 cm square.
Step 2: Take your bust measurement, or refer to standard body measurements for bust circumference, and add your desired amount of positive ease. Divide this number in half to determine the back panel width.
Step 3: Using your gauge, calculate the number of sts needed to achieve the desired panel width.
In the instructions below, only the forward pass will be detailed. As outlined in the Stitch Pattern and Techniques section, completing one row requires working both the forward pass and the return pass. After finishing each forward pass as written below, refer to the aforementioned section to complete the return pass.
Start: ch 56 (58, 62, 64) (70, 76, 80, 86, 92) sts
R1(forward pass): 1TS (tunisian stitch) in each st across
R1 return pass
R2 (forward pass): 1TKS in each st across;
R2 return pass
Rep. R2 until you reach the desired length or until you have in total: 64 (64, 64, 64) (65, 65, 66, 66, 66)
Final Row (Binding Off): Insert the hook into the next st, YO and draw up a loop, YO and pass it through the both loops on your hook (like a sc); Rep. these steps until you finish the row and you have only one loop left; Fasten off;
FRONT PANEL
Use the same pattern as the back panel but reduce the work by 10 rows to shape the neckline.
Start: ch 56 (58, 62, 64) (70, 76, 80, 86, 92) sts
R1(forward pass): 1TS (tunisian stitch) in each st across
R1 return pass
R2 (forward pass): 1TKS in each st across;
R2 return pass
Rep. R2 until you 10 rows fewer than the back panel or until you have in total: 54 (54, 54, 54) (55, 55, 56, 56, 56) rows.
Next, we will shape the neckline by dividing the stitches of the front panel into three sections: shoulders and neckline width. Starting with the next row, we will work on the shoulders separately
Use two stitch markers to mark the shoulder sections.
Note: If you want to adjust the neckline width, divide the stitches so that the neckline section has 10 fewer stitches than the desired collar width. During the last 10 rows, decrease 1 stitch every other row on each shoulder. This will add 5 stitches to each side of the neckline, contributing to the final collar width.
For a comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
Here are two methods you can use to make the decreases:
- During the forward pass, at the point where you need to decrease, work one stitch, then skip the next stitch
- Work two stitches together during the forward pass:
Insert the hook under the front loop of the next stitch, then through the following stitch as you would for a TKS, and complete them together
Then Yarn over and drew out a loop through both loops;
Left Shoulder
Shoulders sts: 20 (21, 23, 24) (27, 28, 30, 33, 36)
Neckline sts: 16 (16, 16, 16) (16, 20, 20, 20, 20)
The first shoulder, the one that begins where your yarn is is the left shoulder;
The neckline is shaped at the end of the row. Decrease every other row. When only 4 stitches remain, make 1 decrease and then work the last two sts.
Next Row (forward pass): 1TKS in next sts until you have 4 sts left to the stitch marker (neckline sts), 1dec, 1TKS in the next 2sts
Return pass
Next Row (forward pass): 1TKS in each st to the end of the row;
Return pass;
Rep. the last 2 rows until you have the same number of rows as for the back panel on this side, or until you have 10 rows for the shoulder;
Bind off (see the binding off row on the BACK PANEL)
Right Shoulder
To begin the Right Shoulder:
- First, bind off the neckline stitches.
- Rejoin the yarn into the first neckline stitch, chain 1, and work the first bind-off stitch (single crochet) into the same stitch.
Your first row of the Right Shoulder starts immediately after completing the bind-off for all the neckline stitches.
Right Shoulder first row (forward pass): 1TKS in next 2sts, 1dec, 1TKS in each st to the end of the row
Return Pass;
Next Row: 1TKS in each to the end of the row;
Return Pass
Rep. the last 2 rows until you have the same number of rows as for the back panel on this side, or until you have 10 rows for the shoulder;
Bind off (see the binding off row on the BACK PANEL)
Joining the Shoulders:
Place the front and back panels side by side, aligning the shoulder edges.
Stitch the shoulder stitches together using your preferred sewing method, or join them with slip stitches or single crochet stitches.
I used the ladder stitch for my joining.
SLEEVES
Use two stitch markers to mark the desired sleeve width. To do this, count the side rows from the shoulder seam towards the back panel, and then count the same number of side rows towards the front panel.
To adjust the sleeve width based on your gauge, follow these steps:
- Determine the Number of Stitches for the Desired Sleeve Width:
Refer to your gauge and calculate how many stitches are needed. - Marking Side Rows for Sleeve Width:
Once you decide on the number of stitches needed for your sleeve width, calculate how many side rows to mark based on your gauge.
For example:
If you want the sleeve width to be 24 stitches:
24÷0.85=28.23 (rounded to 28).
Mark 28 side rows on the front panel and 28 side rows on the back panel, starting from the shoulder seam. - Calculate the Stitch-to-Row Ratio:
For example, if your gauge is 12 stitches per 14 rows in 10 cm, divide 12 by 14 to get the proportion of stitches to rows:
12÷14=0.85 (approximately).
This means you need 0.85 stitches for every 1 row.
Multiply 0.85 until you reach a round or close-to-round number. For instance:
0.85×6=5.1 (approximately 5).
This means for every 6 side rows, you’ll pick up 5 stitches. - Picking Up Stitches:
When picking up stitches for the sleeve, use the pattern:
Work 1 stitch into each of the next 5 side rows, then skip 1 side row.
Sleeve Width Side rows
Count the side rows from the shoulder seam towards the back panel, and then count the same number of side rows towards the front panel.
28 (29, 30, 32) (33, 34, 35, 37, 39)
Next, pick up the sleeve sts following the pattern explained above;
For a comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
Picking up the sts for the sleeve will count as a forward pass; to finish the first row continue with the return pass
Continue the sleeve
To finish the sleeve continue working in Tunisian Knitting Stitch until you reach the desired length or until you have:
44 (47, 50, 50) (51, 51, 52, 52, 52) rows;
Binding off
To bind of the sleeves use a regular 4mm crochet hook and use the same binding off method as for the back and front panels.
Using a 4mm crochet hook will help to make the sleeve edge narrower;
Before starting with the sleeve cuff, work one more row in regular double crochet stitches and decrease accross the row for an even more narrower edge;
CUFF RIBBING
R1: 3ch, *1fpdc, 1bpdc; Alternate to the end of the row; 3ch and turn
Continue working in a ribbing pattern by alternating 1 front post double crochet (fpdc) with 1 back post double crochet (bpdc). Be sure to work each stitch around the corresponding post from the previous row to maintain the ribbing pattern.
Work the ribbing for 5 rounds or until it reaches your desired width.
ASSEMBLING:
After completing the sleeves, fold the piece with the front panel over the back panel, aligning the side edges. Join the side edges using your preferred sewing method. I used the ladder stitch, the same as for the shoulder seam. To ensure you have enough yarn on the needle, measure out a length that is three times the length of the seam you need to sew.
BOTTOM HEM AND COLLAR RIBBING
For both the collar and bottom hem ribbing, use a 4mm crochet hook. The ribbing pattern will be the same as for the cuffs, alternating 1 front post double crochet (fpdc) with 1 back post double crochet (bpdc).
Work the ribbing in the round, and close each round with a slip stitch into the third chain. The 3 chains at the beginning of each round will count as a back post double crochet.
For the bottom hem ribbing, work the first row as follows:
- 1 double crochet (dc) into each stitch around.
For the collar ribbing, follow this pattern: - 1 double crochet (dc) into the next 3 stitches, then 2 double crochet (dc) into the next stitch.
Repeat this sequence around the collar.
R1: 3ch, 1dc in each st aroun; close the round with a slip stitch into the third ch
R2: 3ch, *1fpdc, 1bpdc; Alternate to the end of the round; slip stitch into the third ch
Rep. R2 until you have 5 round or until your ribbing has the desired width;
TO FINISH
- Weave in all loose ends and block the sweater to measurements.
And that’s it! I hope you enjoyed the process, and if you’ve made it this far, I hope you absolutely love your finished Suri Breeze Sweater. Happy crocheting! 💕
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
