Crochet the Perfect Summer Pants – By The Sea Pants Pattern

If you’ve ever dreamed of crocheting your own pair of wearable, stylish, and actually comfortable pants—this is the pattern for you!

The By The Sea Pants are a modern, relaxed-fit design worked from the top down, featuring a stretchy elastic waistband, clean straight legs, optional side slits, and practical front patch pockets. Whether you wear them on a breezy beach walk, lounging at home, or as a handmade fashion statement, these pants are sure to become a favorite in your wardrobe.

This pattern includes 8 sizes (XS–4XL) and is fully customizable to your preferred length, fit, and style. The construction is simple and fun, making it a perfect project for confident beginners and beyond.

In this blog post, you’ll find the full free pattern, along with helpful notes about sizing, construction, and finishing. If you prefer a printable, ad-free version, you can grab the PDF pattern in my shops below 👇

🛒 Get the PDF on My Website
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🛒 Get the PDF on Etsy

Ready to get started? Let’s crochet some pants!

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Sport weight yarn or DK (as long as you can get the gauge)

• Crochet Hook:
o 4 mm crochet hook
• yarn needle for weaving in ends

• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• 1cm elastic band

NOTES ABOUT THE DESIGN

These pants are worked from the top down and constructed in two identical panels—each representing one half of the total circumference. They feature a clean, straight-leg silhouette with no shaping (increases or decreases) in the legs, allowing for a relaxed and modern fit.

To ensure a better and more comfortable fit, the design begins with short rows at the back waist to create a higher back rise compared to the front. After both panels are completed and assembled, the leg length is worked down from the join, allowing you to try the pants on and customize the length as needed.

Optional side slits can be added around or above knee height for extra movement and visual interest. The waistband includes three thin elastic bands encased in a structured crochet casing, offering both comfort and support.

Additional design elements, like faux pocket flaps on the back and front patch pockets, add detail and function. Faux flaps are decorative, helping to balance the design, while the front pockets are shaped with a slight taper for a comfortable fit.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The By The Sea Pants Pattern is available in 8 sizes from XS up to 4XL. The Model os 168cm with 92cm hips circumference and wears size Small

*Waist a: 86 (89, 93, 97, 101, 105, 112, 118)
Front Rise b: 25 cm (25, 25, 27, 27, 30, 30, 30)
Back Rise c: 29 cm (29, 29, 31, 31, 34, 34, 34)
*Hips d: 122 cm (124, 128, 135, 139, 152, 158)
Max. tight: 68 cm (70, 72, 76, 80, 85, 88, 93)
**Length: 94 cm (94, 94, 96, 96, 99, 99, 99)
*The waist is measured before the elastic waistband
The length is measured from the top back rise and considering same leg length for all sizes;

YARN

I used Hobbii Seashell, in color 02 – Cream. This yarn composition is 40% Cotton, 35% Bamboo, and 25% Linen. One ball has 50 grams and is approximately 150 meters.

For each size, you will approximate need in total: 1680 (1710, 1770, 1910, 2010, 2200, 2280, 2400) meters.

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
scflo – single crochet front loop only
Fpsc – front post single crochet
Slst – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rounds
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 4 mm crochet hook in single crochet front loop only
19 sts = 10 cm
16.5 rows = 10 cm

STITCH PATTERN & TECHNIQUES
The main stitch pattern used throughout the pants is single crochet in the front loop only (sc flo). This creates a subtle ribbed texture with added stretch and flexibility, making it ideal for garments like pants that require both comfort and structure.

Other stitches used in the design include:

Single Crochet (sc): Used for foundational rounds, shaping, and edging.

Front Post Single Crochet (fp sc): Featured in the edging to add dimension and a neat, defined border.

Additional Techniques:

Short Rows: Used at the top back section to create a higher back rise for a better fit. These are worked seamlessly using sc and strategic turning to shape the fabric.

Elastic Waistband Casing: Created using layered rounds of sc, crocheted over elastic bands to build a supportive and stretchy waistband.

INSTRUCTIONS

Numbers for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL are written between brackets. If not, the pattern applies to all sizes.

These pants are worked from the top down. Each piece represents one half of the full pants circumference, and both sides are worked identically.
To ensure a better and more comfortable fit, we’ll begin with short rows at the back to create a higher back rise compared to the front

Start: ch83 (85, 89, 93, 97, 101, 107, 113)
Short rows:
Start in the second ch st.
R1: 1sc in next 20 (20, 20, 22, 24, 24, 26, 28) sts, 1ch, and turn.
R2: 1scflo in each st until the end of the row.

Note: When working the short rows, create the bridge between sections using sc3tog as follows:
Work 1 sc into the side of the last stitch, 1 sc into the side of the previous row, and 1 sc into the next chain space.
This sc3tog counts as the first stitch of the next short row section.

R3: 1scflo, in next 20 (20, 20, 22, 24, 24, 26, 28), (bridge) 1sc in next 20 (20, 20, 22, 24, 24, 26, 28), 1ch and turn

R4: 1scflo in each st until the end of the row.
R5: 1scflo in next 40 (40, 40, 44, 48, 48, 52, 56) sts, (bridge )1sc in next 20 (20, 20, 22, 24, 26, 26, 28), 1ch and turn
R6: 1scflo in each st until the end of the row
R7: 1scflo in next 60 (60, 60, 66, 72, 72, 78, 84) sts, 1sc in last 22 (24, 28, 26, 24, 28, 28, 28) sts, 1ch and turn
R8: 1scflo in each st until the end of the row.

Next, begin the back rise increase; increase with 1st at the beginning of the row only in the right side rows (odd number)

R9: 1sc in first st, 2scflo in next st, 1scflo in each st until the end of the row.
R10:1scflo in each st until the end of the row.
Rep R9 and R10 until you have in total:
40 (40, 40, 44, 44, 48, 48, 48) rows
After completing this row, you should have
98 (100, 104, 110, 114, 120, 126, 132) sts.

Next, Increase 1st at the beginning and 1st at the end of the row, every row for back and front rise;
Next row: 1sc in first st, 2scflo in next st, 1scflo in each of the next sts except the last 2, 2scflo in next st, 1sc in last st.
Rep. previous row until you have in total:
49 (49, 49, 53, 53, 57, 57, 57) rows.
After completing this row, you should have
116 (118, 122, 128, 132, 138, 144, 150) sts
At the end of the last row, ch 3(3, 3, 5, 7, 8, 8, 10) sts and turn.

Next row:Starting with the second ch st, 1sc in next 2 (2, 2, 4, 6, 7, 7, 9) sts, 1scflo in each of the next sts until the end of the row, 12 (13, 13, 13, 15, 17, 17, 18) fsc, 1ch and turn.
Next row: 1sc, 1scflo in each st, until the last one, 1sc in the last st.

WORKING ON THE LENGTH

You can continue working on the length of the pant leg at this point, but I prefer to first complete the second piece and then assemble them. This way, you can try on the pants as you go and better decide how many rows to add for the desired length.

For a more detailed visual explanation of the sewing technique, you can watch the video tutorial here

ASSEMBLING

Fold both pieces in half and lay them one next to each other in the mirror.

You have now the right and left side of the shorts.
Step1: Stitch together Front left side with Front right side.
Step2: Stirch back left side with back right side.

After assembling the pieces, continue working on the leg length.
It’s difficult to estimate the exact number of rows needed for each size, as leg length varies individually and isn’t strictly tied to garment size.

The legs are worked straight, with no increases or decreases.

To estimate how many rows you need to work, measure from the current bottom edge of your pants to your desired final length—either to your ankle or wherever you want the pants to end.
Then, convert this measurement into rows based on your gauge.

I worked 100 rows for the leg length, which measures approximately 65 cm

SIDE SLITS

To create side slits along the leg, work until you reach the desired length—just above or around the knee.
Then, divide the total number of stitches in half and work each side separately.
Leave 2 stitches at the side to accommodate the slit edging.
If the stitch count doesn’t divide evenly by 2, place the extra stitch on the back section.

WAISTBAND

Work the waistband around the top edge of the pants.
I used three thin elastic bands to create a wide and supportive waistband.

To determine the correct length of elastic, wrap it around your waist, stretching it until it feels snug but still comfortable—not too tight.
The final length will depend on the stretchiness of your elastic.

For reference, my waist measures 72 cm, and I used a 56 cm length of elastic.

Once all three elastic bands are prepared and joined at the ends (use thread in a matching color when sewing the ends together), you can begin working the waistband.

Join the yarn at one stitch on the side of the waistband opening.

Round 1: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to the first sc.

Round 2: Ch 1, work sc stitches over the first elastic band all the way around. Join with a sl st to the first sc.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for each additional elastic band you are using. For example, if you’re using three bands, repeat R1 and R2 two more times.

POCKETS

Lay the pants flat with the front panel facing up.

To measure the pocket length, place your hand on the front panel with your fingertips touching the waistband. Count how many rows your hand covers—this will determine the length of the pocket. Make a note of the row count.

To measure the pocket width, leave about 5 stitches from the side edge and 9 stitches from the center seam, then count the stitches in between. This will give you the stitch count for the pocket width.

Tip: You can use a strand of contrasting yarn to outline the pocket placement. This will help you visualize the shape and adjust the size before you begin crocheting.

Next Steps:
Chain the required number of stitches based on your pocket width measurement.
Work half of the total rows in single crochet (sc) in the front loop only to give the pocket a bit of texture and flexibility.

For the second half of the rows, begin shaping the pocket by decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning of each row on one side only. This will create a slight angle for a better fit.

To finish the pocket, crochet a simple edging across the opening for a clean and sturdy finish.

Attaching the Pocket:
Place the pocket on the front panel of the pants and secure it with safety pins.
For easier alignment and a neater result, you can thread a piece of contrasting yarn along the outline of the pocket to guide your stitching.
Sew the pocket in place using small, even stitches along the edges.

Faux Pocket Flaps on the Back:

To enhance the design and avoid an “empty” look on the back of the pants, I added two faux pocket flaps. These are purely decorative but help balance the overall look.

The flaps should be proportional to the width of the back panel. You can use a strand of contrasting yarn to outline and adjust their placement before starting.

For my version, I started with 25 stitches and worked 6 rows in single crochet, followed by 2 edging rows—one in regular single crochet and one in front post single crochet.
Work the edging only along the sides and bottom, leaving the top edge plain so it can be easily sewn onto the pants.

Placement Tips:

Count 5 stitches from the center seam for horizontal positioning.

Count 14 rows down from the waistband for vertical placement.

As a general guide, place the flaps at approximately one-third of the total back rise height for a balanced look

EDGING

Edging Pattern
I used the same edging pattern for the side slits, bottom hem, pocket openings, and faux pocket flaps to create a cohesive finish throughout the design.

Edging Pattern Instructions:

Work 1 row of single crochet (sc) followed by 1 row of front post single crochet (FPsc).

Always begin working the edging on the right side of the fabric.

When working into side rows, place 1 sc per side row for an even edge.

For the side slits and bottom hems, the edging is worked in two separate sections:

One continuous piece for the front side slit and front bottom hem,

And another for the back side slit and back bottom hem.

When turning corners:

On the single crochet row, work 3 sc into the corner stitch or side row to allow a smooth turn.

On the FPsc row, do not increase at the corners—just continue the stitch pattern evenly.

TO FINISH

Weave in all loose ends and block to measurements

I hope you love making your By The Sea Pants!

Whether you’re crocheting them for summer wear, cozy loungewear, or just for the joy of making, I hope this pattern brings you confidence, comfort, and creativity.

If you share your finished pants on social media, don’t forget to tag me [@bykaterinadesign] and use the hashtag #ByTheSeaPants so I can admire your work and share it with the community! 💛

Thank you for supporting my designs—whether by reading, crocheting along, or purchasing the PDF pattern. Every bit of support helps me continue to create and share more wearable crochet patterns with you.

Happy crocheting,
Katerina