Cozy Chill & Charm Sweater Crochet Pattern: Seamless Round Yoke & Two-Color Design
A few months ago, one of my YouTube subscribers suggested I create a Nordic-inspired sweater. When I think of Nordic sweaters, I imagine those stunning colorwork designs with intricate patterns, especially around the yoke. I knew I had to give it a try, but I wanted to make the design more approachable and beginner-friendly.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
I came up with a design that I think turned out beautifully. This sweater features a two-color yoke pattern inspired by traditional Nordic sweaters, but it eliminates the need for intricate colorwork techniques. Instead, I used a combination of simple crochet stitches to create a stunning yoke design that’s both elegant and beginner-friendly.
I decided to use yarn from my stash for this project, choosing whatever I had enough of for a sweater. As a result, I didn’t use the same brand of yarn for both colors. The contrasting color was slightly thinner, so I held two strands together to achieve the desired thickness.
What makes this pattern unique is its focus on sustainability and creativity, encouraging you to use yarn you already have. Leftover yarn works perfectly as a secondary color. For fiber choices, you can tailor the sweater to your preferences—opt for breathable cotton for a lighter feel or use wool and blends for a warmer, cozier result.
Now that we’ve covered the background, it’s time to dive into the pattern details and start creating the beautiful Chill & Charm Sweater!
MATERIALS
- Yarn: Size 3 , Light (DK) weight yarn
- Crochet Hook:
o 4.5 mm crochet hook
o 4 mm crochet hook - yarn needle for weaving in ends
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Chill & Charm Sweater Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with a 88 cm bust circumference, and wears a size Extra Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL);
Final Measurements of the Chill & Charm Sweater
*Neck Circ. a: 55 cm (55, 55, 55) (57, 57, 60, 60, 60)
Yoke Depth b: 17 cm (19, 19, 21) (23, 23, 25, 27, 27)
Bust Circ. c: 92.5 cm (99, 104, 109), (117.5, 126.5, 136.5, 147.5, 157.5)
Upper Arm. d: 34.5 cm (36, 38.5, 40) (47, 48.5, 51, 53.5, 55)
**Sleeve Length e: 40 cm (42, 42, 44) (44, 46, 46, 46, 46)
Length f: 56 cm (58, 58, 60) (64, 64, 68, 70, 70)
*the neckline circ. is measured after the ribbing;
** the sleeve is measured from the armpit
YARN
For the Chill & Charm Sweater I used Katia Concept Cotton Merino Fine in color Whitish Green (84) (color A) and Lang Yarns Noelle in color Jade (73)(contrasting color, color B);
Yarn composition Katia Cotton Merino Fine:70% organic cotton, 30% Merino extra fine; Each skein has 25 grams and is approximately 75 meters.
Yarn Composition Lang Yarns Noelle: 79% Merino, 21% Polyamide; each skein has 25grams and approximately 185 meters; *note: because this yarn was thinner I used 2 strands held together;
For each size, you will approximately need:
Color B (contrasting color): 250 (280, 290, 320) (360, 390, 440, 480, 500) meters
Color A: 860 (950, 1000, 1090) (1260, 1360, 1510, 1650, 1740)
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crichetdouble crochet
dc – double crochet
Vst -2dc into the same st
slst – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – row
** – repeated section.
TENSION
Using 4.5 mm crochet hook in the half double crochet
16sts = 10 cm
12 rows = 10 cm
STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES
The colorwork stitch pattern in the yoke section of the Chill & Charm Sweater is worked from simple yet elegant stitches that create a visually striking design. Incorporating two contrasting colors enhances the definition and beauty of the stitches. The pattern features a 9-row repeat throughout the yoke, with the first single crochet round serving as an increase round.
R1 (color A): 1sc in each stitch around (this will be an increase round into the sweater pattern)
R2 (color B): *1sc, 1ch, skip 1st; *rep. to the end of the round
R3: (color A): *1sc into the next 1ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st; *rep. to the end of the round
R4: (color B): 2sc in each 1ch-sp
R5: (color B): 1sc in each st around
R6: (color A): Rep. R2
R7: (color B): Rep. R3
R8: (color A): 2dc in each 1ch-sp
R9: (color B): 2dc between each 2dc group from previous round
The main sections of the body and sleeves are worked in half double crochet, concluding with a repeated colorwork section as described above. To finish, ribbing is added, worked perpendicularly using single crochet stitches in the back loop only.
INSTRUCTIONS
YOKE
- Work in the round, only on the right side.
- when working in double crochet or half double crochet, you can use a stacked single crochet (1 sc on top of another) as the first stitch; in the instruction below you will find this first st written as hdc or dc;
- Close each round with an invisible slip stitch: remove the hook from the loop, insert the hook from the back into the first stitch of the round, then grab the working loop and pull it through the first stitch.
- To keep the joining line straight, alternate between starting the round from the first stitch and starting from the second stitch on every other round.
For a comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video
All Sizes
We will begin with 99 (99, 99 99) (102, 102, 108, 108, 108) sts, increasing by 33 (33, 33, 33) (34, 34, 36, 36, 36) stitches in each increase round.
The Yoke Section will have 3 (3, 3, 4) (4, 5, 5, 5. 6) main increase rounds;
For sizes S, M , XL, 4XL and 5XL there will be an additional increase round, adding 6, 22, 17, 26, and 8 stitches respectively, to reach the required stitch count for the yoke.
After completing the yoke, there will be 198 (204, 220, 231) (255, 272, 288, 314, 332) stitches.
Start with color A: ch 100 (100, 100, 100) (103, 103, 109, 109, 109) sts
R1 (Increase round): *1sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st; *rep to the end of the row; join with a sl st into the first stitch to close the round; switch to color B
Total sts: 132 (132, 132, 132) (136, 136, 144, 144, 144) sts
R2: *1sc, 1ch, skip 1st; *rep to the end of the row;close the round with 1ss into the first sc; switch to color A;
R3: 1sc into the next 1ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st; rep. to the end of the round; close the round with 1sl st
into the first sc; change to color B;
R4: *2sc into each 1ch-sp; close the round with 1 sl st into the first sc;
R5: 1sc in each st around; close the round with 1sl st into the first sc; change to color A’
R6: Rep. R2; change to color B
R7: Rep. R3; change to color A;
R8: *2dc (Vst), skip 1st; *rep. to the end of the round; close the round with 1sl st into the first dc; change to color B
R9: *2dc into each Vst of the previous round (work the 2dc in between the 2dc that form the Vst on previous round); close the round with 1sl st into the first dc; change to color A
For a comprehensive visual guide, refer to the video
R10:(increase round): *1sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st; *rep to the end of the row:
Total sts: 165 (165, 165, 165) (170, 170, 180, 180, 180) sts
For sizes XS, S, M, and L, the stitch count will be uneven after this increase round. Since the next round requires an even number of stitches, you’ll need to add one stitch by chaining 1 at the end of the row without having a last stitch to skip.
Total number of sts after next round: 166 (166, 166, 166) (170, 170, 180, 180, 180) sts
R11 – R18: rep R2 – R9
The next round is an increase round, but for sizes XS, S, M, and L, we need to adjust by removing the extra stitch that was added in Round 11. To do this, simply skip the last increase. Specifically, when you have 6 stitches remaining, work 1 sc in each stitch across the last 6 stitches instead of the usual pattern of 1 sc into the next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, and 1 sc in the last stitch
R19 (Increase Round): *1sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st; *rep to the end of the row:
Total sts: 198 (198, 198, 198) (204, 204, 216, 216, 216) sts
R20 – R27: Rep R2 – R9
For size XS the Yoke is done. Move forward to the BODY Section.
Size S Only
To achieve the required stitch count for size S, we need to increase by 6 stitches. To achieve the required Yoke Depth we need to work 3 more rows in half double crochet sts;
At the end of row 27, we have 198 stitches. To evenly distribute the 6 additional stitches, we will increase one stitch every 33rd stitch.
R28 (in color A): *1hdc in next 32 sts, 2hdc in next st; *rep to the end of the round;
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
Total sts: 204 sts
R29 – R30: 1hdc in each st around
For size S the Yoke is done. Move forward to the BODY Section
Size M only
To achieve the required stitch count for size M, we need to increase with 22 sts To achieve the required Yoke Depth we need to work 3 more rounds in half double crochet sts. At the end of row 27 we have 198 sts. To increase with 22 sts we will increase one stitch every 9th stitch.
R28: *1hdc in next 8 sts, 2hdc in next st; *rep to the end of the round
Total sts: 220 sts
R29 – R30: 1hdc in each st around;
For size M the Yoke is done. Move forward to the BODY Section
Size L only
for size L the rest of the YOKE will be worked only in hdc using color A
R28 ( increase round): 1hdc in the next 5sts, 2hdc in next st; *rep to the end of the row:
Total sts: 231
R29-R33: 1hdc in each st around;
For size L the Yoke is done. Move forward to the BODY Section
Total sts: 231 sts
Sizes XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL only
For size XL and larger, you will add one additional repeated section of the yoke colorwork pattern. If you prefer the colorwork to be less deep, you can instead work in half double crochet stitches using only Color A. To maintain the proportions, replace every 9 rows of the colorwork pattern with 6 rows of half double crochet stitches in Color A.
The numbers are written below as follows: XL(XXL,3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
R28 ( increase round in color A): *1sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st; *rep to the end of the row:
Total sts: 238 (238, 252, 252, 252) sts
R29 – R36: Rep R2 – R9
Size XL only
To achieve the required stitch count for size XL we need to increase with 17sts. At the end of row 37 we have 238 sts. To increase with 17 sts we will increase with one stitch every 14th st
R37 (in color A): 1hdc in next 13 sts, 2hdc in next st; *rep to the end of the round
Total sts: 255 sts
For size XL the Yoke is done. Move forward to the BODY Section
Sizes XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL
The numbers will be written as follows:
XXL (3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
R37( increase round in color A using hdc): 1hdc in the next 6sts, 2hdc in next st; *rep to the end of the row:
Total sts: 272 ( 288, 288, 288) sts
For size XXL the Yoke is done. Move forward to the BODY Section
Size 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL only
R38 – R40: 1hdc in each st around
For size 3XL the Yoke is done. Move forward to the BODY Section
Sizes 4XL only
To achieve the required stitch count for size 4XL we need to increase with 26 stitches. At the end of row 40 we have 288 sts. To increase with 26 sts we will increase one stitch every 11th st and we will finish the round with 2 extra hdc
R41: *1hdc in next 10sts, 2hdc in next; *rep until you have 2sts left; finish the round with 1hdc into the last 2 sts;
Total sts: 314 sts
R42: 1hdc in each st around
For size 4XL the Yoke is done. Move forward to the BODY Section
Sizes 5XL only
R41(increase round): 1hdc in the next 7sts, 2hdc in next st; *rep to the end of the row:
Total sts: 324
R42 – R43: 1hdc in each st around
To achieve the required stitch count for size 5XL we need to increase with 8 sts. At the end of row 43 we have 324 sts; to increase with 8 sts we will increase one stitch every 40 st and we will finish the round with 4 extra hdc
R44: 1hdc in next 39sts, 2hdc in next; *rep until you have 4sts left (8times), 1hdc in last 4sts;
Total sts: 332
For size 5XL the Yoke is done. Move forward to the BODY Section
BODY
Before starting the body and sleeves, we need to divide the yoke into separate sections for the sleeves and body.
Let’s summarize the stitch count after completing the yoke:
198 (204, 220, 231) (255, 272, 314, 332) stitches
Place 4 stitch markers to divide the yoke into sections for the back, sleeves, and front.
The first stitch of the round will mark the beginning of the back panel.
Divide the yoke stitches as follows:
Back Panel: 60 (63, 67, 72) (74, 81, 87, 96, 103)
Sleeves: 39 (39, 43, 43) (53, 55, 57, 61, 63)
*Front Panel: 60 (63, 67, 73) (75, 81, 87, 96, 103)
*Sizes L and XL have different stitch count for the front panel as the total stitch count can not be equally divided.
Separating Round
Start the round from where your yarn is:
Work into the established stitch pattern for the next 60 (63, 67, 72) (74, 81, 87, 96, 103), ch 14 (16,16,18) (20, 20, 22, 22 23) sts, skip the next 39 (39, 43, 43) (53, 55, 57, 61, 63) sts (sleeves sts), continue working into the established stitch pattern for the next 60 (63, 67, 73) (75, 81, 87, 96, 103), ch 14 (16,16,16) (20, 20, 22, 22 23) sts, skip the next 39 (39, 43, 43) (53, 55, 57, 61, 63) sts (sleeves sts); close the round with a slip stitch into the first st;
Note: If you started the separation round from the second stitch, don’t forget to work the last stitch of the round. This stitch will be right after skipping the sleeve stitches and just before the first stitch, where you will need to work a slip stitch.
Body Length
Continue working into the established pattern until you reach the desired *length or until you have 26 (26, 26, 26) (28, 28, 30, 30, 30) rounds;
*Note: To achieve the desired length, continue working in half-double crochet stitches until the piece measures approximately 6 cm less than the target length. The final section of the body will be completed using the same pattern as the yoke;
To finish the body length, work the final rows as follows. This section will be numbered starting with Row 1 (R1), but it continues directly from the body.
R1 (in color B): *1sc, 1ch, skip 1st; *rep to the end of the row;close the round with 1ss into the first sc; switch to color A;
R2: 1sc into the next 1ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st; rep. to the end of the round; close the round with 1sl st
into the first sc; change to color B;
R3: *2sc into each 1ch-sp; close the round with 1 sl st into the first sc;
R4: 1sc in each st around; close the round with 1sl st into the first sc; change to color A’
R5: Rep. R2; change to color B
R6: Rep. R3; change to color A;
R7: *2dc (Vst),in each 1ch-sp; close the round with 1sl st into the first dc; change to color B
R8: *2dc into each Vst of the previous round (work the 2dc in between the 2dc that form the Vst on previous round); close the round with 1sl st into the first dc; change to color A
R9: 1sc in each st arouns
Finish the BODY with the RIBBING
SLEEVES
Rejoin the yarn at the armpit using color A
For the first round, crochet over the side row of the body.
To prevent creating a gap, work 2 half-double crochets together (hdc2tog) twice:
First hdc2tog: Insert the first leg into the last armpit stitch and the second leg into the side row of the body.
Second hdc2tog: Insert the first leg into the same body stitch as the side row stitch and the second leg into the first stitch of the sleeve
Proceed the same on the other side
R1: 1hdc in each st around (following the indications above)
R2 – R3: Rep. R1
R4 (decrease round): 1hdc (first st in the round), hdc2tog, 1hdc in each st until you have 2sts left, hdc2tog into the last 2sts; close the round with slst into the first hdc;
R5 – R8 (4rows): 1hdc in each st around
R9 (decrease round): rep. R4;
Continue with the same decrease pattern: make a decrease in every 4th round, then in every 5th round, and repeat this pattern until you have completed 36 (38,38,40) (40,43,43, 43 ,43) rounds or reached the desired length.
Note: If the sleeve circumference is already narrow enough but you still need to add more rounds for the length, you can continue working without making further decreases.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
*note: continue working in half-double crochet stitches until the piece measures approximately 6 cm less than the target length. The final section of the body will be completed using the same pattern as the yoke;
To finish the sleeve length, work the final rows as follows. This section will be numbered starting with Row 1 (R1), but it continues directly from the sleeve;
R1 (in color B): *1sc, 1ch, skip 1st; *rep to the end of the row;close the round with 1ss into the first sc; switch to color A;
R2: 1sc into the next 1ch-sp, 1ch, skip 1st; rep. to the end of the round; close the round with 1sl st
into the first sc; change to color B;
R3: *2sc into each 1ch-sp; close the round with 1 sl st into the first sc;
R4: 1sc in each st around; close the round with 1sl st into the first sc; change to color A’
R5: Rep. R2; change to color B
R6: Rep. R3; change to color A;
R7: *2dc (Vst),in each 1ch-sp; close the round with 1sl st into the first dc; change to color B
R8: *2dc into each Vst of the previous round (work the 2dc in between the 2dc that form the Vst on previous round); close the round with 1sl st into the first dc; change to color A
R9: 1sc in each st arouns
Finish the sleeve with the RIBBING
RIBBING
Work the same ribbing pattern for the sleeves, body, and neckline.
The ribbing pattern is created using single crochet stitches worked in the back loop only and is worked perpendicular to the specific sweater edges.
For the sleeves and body, the ribbing width is 9 stitches.
For the neckline, the ribbing width is 5 stitches.
You can adjust the number of stitches if you prefer a different ribbing width.
Optional: To create a denser fabric, you can switch to a 4 mm crochet hook.
Using color A chain the rewuired number of sts plus 1 (10sts for the sleeves and body, 6sts for neckline) and turn;
1sc in each st to the end of the row; 1slst into the next 2sts of the sweater edge (sleeves, body or neckline); turn
R2: skip 2slst, 1scblo in each st until you have 1st left, 1sc into the last st, 1ch and turn;
R3: 1sc into the first st, 1scblo into the next sts to the end of the row, 1slst into the next 2sts of the sweater edge; turn
Rep. R2 and R3 until you finish the entire circumference of the section you are working on;
Join the RIBBING edges using slip stitches;
TO FINISH
Weave in all the ends and block to measurements
You can purchase the easily printable PDF pattern here at the links below.
I truly hope you enjoy this pattern and create your own stunning Chill & Charm Sweater. I can’t wait to see the beautiful colors you choose!
