Athleisure Pants. Free Crochet Pattern
There’s been more than a year since I tried to publish the Thleisure Pants Pattern, and I am glad I can finally do it.
For some reason, I kept putting aside this project for various reasons. The most time-consuming of all was that I also wanted to make a video tutorial for this pattern. And after all, there will be no video tutorial. I am sad and disappointed because all the hard work was blown with such a small mistake or maybe more…
The story is long, but the main idea is that I lost the progress videos I made twice, and I didn’t have the energy and mood to start a third time to film everything.
So, this is it! No video tutorial this time, but you can use the Marble Shorts video tutorial as guidance, as the Athleisure Pants are a variation of the shorts version. At least that!
You can purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:
I hope you will like this pattern and you will try to make some crocheted pants.
MATERIALS
• Yarn: Sport weight yarn or DK (as long as you can get the gauge)
• Crochet Hook:
o 4 mm crochet hook
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• 1cm elastic band with about 3-4 cm smaller length than the waist circumference
NOTES ABOUT DESIGN
This Athleisure Crochet Pants pattern features techniques such as short rows for a higher back, single crochet in front loop only, and increases.
The pants are worked in two identical pieces, stitched together at the end.
The waistband is worked after assembling around the shorts’ edge in the round. The waistband is doubled to insert the elastic band and the cord.
MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES
The Athleisure Pants Pattern is available in 8 sizes from S up to 5XL. The diagram above is represented one piece which represents half. Work 2 pieces to complete the pants.
Half Waist a: 43.5 cm (45, 46.5, 49, 51.5, 53.5, 56.5, 59)
Front Rise b: 25 cm (25, 25, 25.5, 25.5, 27, 27, 27)
Back Rise c: 29 cm (29, 29, 29.5, 29.5, 31, 31, 31)
*Half Hips d: 60 cm (61, 63, 66, 68, 71, 74)
Max. tight: 62 cm (64, 66, 70, 76, 81, 84, 90)
Length: 89 cm (89, 89, 90, 90, 92, 92, 92)
*These measurements are taken before assembling; after assembling, the approximate measurements are:
Waist: 78 cm (79, 84, 97, 91, 96, 101, 106)
Hips: 96 cm (98, 101, 105, 109, 114, 118, 123)
Use these measurements as a reference when picking the size. The Pants are designed with a positive ease of approximately 5cm around the hips.
How much yarn do you need?
I used Basic Merino from Katia Yarns, in colors 12 – Grey and 32 – Grey Blue. This yarn composition is 52% Merino super washed and 48% acrylic. One ball has 50 grams and is approximately 120 meters.
I used almost the same amount of each color.
For each size, you will approximate need in total: 1272 (1320, 1368, 1536, 1584, 1704, 1776, 2064) meters.
ABBREVIATIONS
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
scflo – single crochet front loop only
Slst – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – rounds
** – repeated section.
TENSION
Using 4 mm crochet hook in single crochet front loop only
16 sts = 10 cm
16 rows = 10 cm
You can purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:
STITCH PATTERN
The main stitch pattern is single crochet in the front loop only.
The waistband is worked in regular single crochet stitches.
PATTERN NOTES
Both pieces are worked flat. Turn after each row.
Work 1ch at the end of each row to raise the work
1ch does not count as the first single crochet
Work the increase into the second stitch and second to last stitch.
Work first and last st as a regular sc.
When working the short rows, work the bridge (passing from the first short section to the next one) as sc2tog: 1sc into the side of the last st and 1sc into the next st.
INSTRUCTIONS
Numbers for sizes M, L, XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL are written between brackets. If not, the pattern applies to all sizes.
Both pieces are worked identically, from top to bottom.
Start: ch70 (72, 75, 78, 82, 86, 90, 95)
Short rows:
1ch, start in the second ch st.
R1: 1sc in next 17 (18, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23) sts, 1ch, and turn.
R2: 1scflo in each st until the end of the row.
R3: 1scflo, in next 17 (18, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23), 1sc in next 17 (18, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23), 1ch and turn
R4: 1scflo in each st until the end of the row.
R5: 1scflo in next 34 (36, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46) sts, 1sc in next 17 (18, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23), 1ch and turn
R6: 1scflo in each st until the end of the row.
R7: 1scflo in next 51 (54, 54, 57, 60, 63, 66, 69) sts, 1sc in last 19 (18, 21, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26) sts, 1ch and turn
R8: 1scflo in each st until the end of the row.
R9: 1sc in first st, 2scflo in next st, 1scflo in each st until the end of the row.
R10:1scflo in each st until the end of the row.
Rep R9 and R10 until you have in total:
32 (32, 32, 34, 34, 36, 36, 36) rows
After completing this row, you should have
82 (84, 87, 91, 95, 100, 104, 109) sts.
Next row: 1sc in first st, 2scflo in next st, 1scflo in each of the next sts except the last 2, 2scflo in next st, 1sc in last st.
Rep. previous row until you have in total:
39 (39, 39, 41, 41, 43, 43, 43) rows.
After completing this row, you should have
96 (98, 101, 105, 109, 114, 118, 123) sts
At the end of the last row, ch 1 (1, 1, 3, 5, 6,6,8) sts and turn.
Next row: Size S, M, L
1scflo in each st until the end of the row, 10 (11, 11) fsc, 1ch, and turn.
Next row: sizes XL, XXL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL
Starting with the second ch st, 1sc in next 2 (4, 5,5,7) sts, 1scflo in each of the next sts until the end of the row, 11 (13, 14, 14, 15) fsc, 1ch and turn.
Next row: 1sc, 1scflo in each st, until the last one, 1sc in the last st.
Working on the length of the pants
There are a few variations that you can work with depending on your taste and how you want the pants to look.
For the length, I decided for this sample to decrease, but you can work the leg straight or even increase it for a flare look.
The pattern below is written with the same length for all sizes. I will give details on how to customize the length and how to calculate the decreases.
Before starting with the length, I do recommend following the assembly steps. This way, you can try the shorts on before and measure everything you need regarding the length.
Step 1 Measure the desired length and calculate how many rows you will need to complete that length ( according to your gauge)
Step 2: Measure the circumference that you will want the pants to have at the bottom (you should consider the ribbing as well; let it a bit wider as it will stretch with the ribbing) and calculate how many sts you will need;
Step 3: From the number of sts you have on the max tight, subtract the number at the bottom; the result will be the number of sts you need to decrease.
Step 4: because you will decrease with 2sts per row (one at the beginning and one at the end), divide the number of sts that you need to decrease by 2; the result will be the number of decreased rows.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:
Step 5: Divide the total number you need to make to complete the length by the number of decreased rows; the result will be the number of rows in a pattern repeat.
Example: I worked before starting to decrease 6 rows. Rows left from the length 84; the number of decreased rows 20 ( to decrease 40 sts); 84 / 20 = 4.2. So my repeated decrease pattern will be of 4 rows. I will make 1 decrease row, followed by 3 rows without decreasing.
Length
R1: 1sc, 1scflo in each st, except the last one, 1sc in last st;
R2 – R6: rep. R1
R7 (dec) : 1sc, scflo2tog, 1scflo in each st except the last 3, scflo2tog, 1sc in last st;
R8 – R10: rep. R1
Rep. R7 – R10 until you have a total of 90 rows.
Ribbing
ch11
R1: start in the second st and work 1ss ineach of the next 10sts, 1ss in the next 2sts of the edge; turn
R2: ssblo in each st to the end of the row; ch1 and turn
R3: ssblo in each st, 1ss in the next 2sts of the edge; turn
Rep. R2 and R3 until you complete the entire width.
ASSEMBLING
Fold both pieces in half and lay them next to the other in the mirror.
You now have the right and left sides of the pants.
Step 1: Stitch together the Front left side with the Front right side.
Step 2: Stitch the back left side with the back right side.
Step 3: Stitch the inside edge of the leg length.
WAISTBAND
Work for the waistband around the top edge.
Join the yarn in one stitch from the back.
R1: 1ch, 1sc in each st around. Close the round with slst in first sc.
R2 – R10: Rep. R1
Place the elastic band into the folded waistband.
Join the waistband edges with sl sts into the stitches of the last row and the 3rd loop of the stitches at the first row, using a smaller hook size (2.5 mm recommended)
CORD
Ch300, or 2.5 times your waist circumference.
Sl st into each of the ch sts.
POCKETS
Lay the pants facing the front panel.
To measure the length of the pocket, place your hand on the front panel, with your fingertips touching the waistband; count how many rows you have and write it down; this will be the length of the pocket.
To measure the width, leave approximately 5 sts from the edge and 5 sts from the middle seam and count the sts in between; this will be the number of sts for the pocket width.
Next: ch the required number of sts, according to your measurements, and work 1/3 of the number of rows in sc in the front loop only. For the other 2/3 number of rows, decrease 1st per row only on one side;
To finish the pockets work on the edge where you made the decreases, only a few rows in ss in the back loop; then sew the pockets on the front panels of the pants.
TO FINISH
Use a safety pin and insert the cord into the waistband.
Weave in all loose ends and block to measurements.
You can purchase the easily printable PDF version of this pattern here:
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)