Aria Cardigan – A Thoughtfully Designed Crochet Cardigan

The Aria Cardigan was designed with comfort, structure, and timeless elegance in mind. Worked from the top down with a round yoke construction, this cardigan features a continuous textured cable stitch pattern that flows seamlessly from the neckline to the hem.

One of the key elements of the design is the anatomical neckline, shaped using short rows that blend naturally into the stitch pattern. This thoughtful construction allows the cardigan to sit comfortably on the shoulders while maintaining a clean and refined look.

Designed with a relaxed fit, the Aria Cardigan follows the body without feeling restrictive, making it an easy piece to wear every day. At the same time, its elegant texture and balanced proportions make it suitable for office wear or more dressed-up occasions. Whether styled casually or layered over a blouse or dress, Aria is a versatile addition to any handmade wardrobe.

In this blog post, you’ll find all the written pattern, including materials, sizing, yarn requirements, and gauge, as well as links to the full video tutorial series.

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MATERIALS

Yarn: Size 1 , Super Fine, Fingering weight yarn
Crochet Hook:
o 4 mm crochet hook
o 3 mm crochet hook for sleeve edging
yarn needle for weaving in ends
7 buttons (12mm)
Stitch markers
Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

This Aria Cardigan is worked top-down with a round yoke construction and a beautifully textured cable stitch pattern that continues seamlessly throughout the piece. The design features an anatomical neckline, shaped with short rows that blend naturally into the stitch pattern for a clean and refined look.

The cardigan is designed with a relaxed fit for a flattering silhouette that follows the body without feeling restrictive. Its versatile style makes it a timeless and wearable piece — perfect for everyday outfits, yet elegant enough for the office or more dressed-up occasions.

Yarn Requirements (approximate)

Sample shown in Size 2, using Hobbii Soft Alpaca
(50 g skein = 165 m / 180 yds)

Size 1: approx. 1,565 m / 1,710 yds (9–10 skeins)
Size 2: approx. 1,665 m / 1,825 yds (10–11 skeins)
Size 3: approx. 1,870 m / 2,045 yds (11–12 skeins)
Size 4: approx. 2,070 m / 2,265 yds (12–13 skeins)
Size 5: approx. 2,170 m / 2,375 yds (13–14 skeins)

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

Because of the structured cable stitch pattern, this design does not strictly follow standard size charts. The nature of the stitch pattern creates certain limitations in achieving precise measurements. However, the pattern is available in five sizes.
For reference, the model is 168 cm tall, has a bust circumference of 88 cm, and is wearing size 2.

FINAL MEASUREMENTS OF THE ARIA CARDIGAN

Measurements in Centimeters
*Neck Circ. a: 55cm (55, 55, 63, 71, 71)
Yoke Depth b: 17.5 cm (19, 21, 22.5, 25)
Bust Circ. c: 93 cm (99, 111, 123, 129)
**Sleeve length. d: 38cm (38, 42, 42, 44)
Sleeve circ. e: 31 cm (34, 37, 40, 43)Length f: 45 cm (48, 55, 58, 60)

Measurements in Inches
*Neck Circ. a: 21.5” (21.5, 21.5, 24.5, 28, 28)
Yoke Depth b: 7” (7.5, 8.25, 8.75, 9.75)
Bust Circ. c: 36.5” (39, 43.5, 48.5, 51)
Sleeve length d: 15” (15, 16.5, 16.5, 17.25)
Sleeve circ. e: 12” (13.5, 14.5, 15.75, 17)
Length f: 17.75” (19, 21.5, 22.75, 23.5)

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
Fptr – front post triple crochet
Cable – *see the Stitch Pattern and Techniques Section
ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – row
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 4 mm in the cable stitch pattern, the last pattern repeat (1cable, 3dc)
before blocking
3patt repeats (1cable, 3dc) = 9cm
*8 rows = 10 cm
*When counting rows, count only the double crochet (cable) rows, which are the right-side rows.
Each “row” in the pattern refers to one right-side (cable) row plus the following wrong-side (single crochet) row.

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STITCH PATTERN AND TECHNIQUES

The Aria Cardigan has a top-down construction featuring a round yoke pattern. The design features an anatomical neckline, shaped with short rows that blend naturally into the stitch pattern for a clean and refined look.

CABLE STITCH PATTERN VARIATION

The stitch pattern used for the Aria Cardigan is a variation of a classic cable stitch pattern.
In this design, the number of stitches between the cables increases gradually as the yoke is shaped. The final stitch repeat becomes 3 dc, 1 cable.
In other projects, you can easily adjust the stitch pattern by working more or fewer stitches between the cables, depending on the desired look and texture.
For this design, the gauge swatch is based on the final stitch repeat (3 dc, 1 cable), even though the sweater begins with a slightly different repeat.

Pattern (use for gauge swatch)

Ch a multiple of 6 + 3

Row 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a dc), starting in the 3rd ch from the hook, 1 dc in each st across; ch 1 and turn.
Row 2: 1 sc in each st across; ch 2 and turn.
Row 3: 1 dc in each of the first 3 sts, work 1 cable as follows: skip the next st, (1 fptr around the next dc, 1 row below) twice, 1 fptr crossed over the previous 2 fptr around the skipped dc, 1 row below; 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts; repeat from * to * to end of row; ch 1 and turn.

Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
From Row 5 onward, work the cable stitches around the posts of the cable stitches from the previous cable row.
Row 5: 1 dc in each of the first 3 sts, work 1 cable as follows: skip the first fptr, 1 fptr around the middle fptr of the cable from the previous row, 1 fptr around the third fptr of that cable, 1 fptr crossed over the previous 2 fptr around the skipped fptr; 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts; repeat from * to * to end of row.

NOTES AND ADJUSTMENTS

Due to the stitch pattern used in the Aria Cardigan, it was necessary to increase the number of neckline stitches for the larger sizes.

In the Measurements section, the listed numbers are calculated based on the stitch and row counts for each size. However, the actual neckline circumference may appear smaller after working the edging This is normal, as both the main stitch pattern and the edge have natural stretch.

If you prefer a closer neckline on the larger sizes, you can adjust the circumference by working a few decreases evenly around the first round of edging. Alternatively, switching to a smaller hook size for the edge will also help create a narrower neckline.

ADJUSTING THE NECKLINE

The Aria Cardigan neckline is shaped using short rows. The number of stitches in each section — back panel, sleeves, and front panel — is a multiple of three.
If you’d like to adjust the neckline to make it wider (for a smaller size) without changing the overall bust circumference, you can begin with more starting stitches and later adjust the bust using the underarm stitches.

For example, in Size 1, there are:

-12 pattern repeats (10 × 3 sts) for the back panel
-6 pattern repeats for each front panel
-8 pattern repeats for each sleeve

After completing the yoke, 3 pattern repeats are added at each underarm.

To start with a wider neckline, you can add 2 extra pattern repeats to each section — for instance:

-14pattern repeats for the front and back panels
-10pattern repeats for the sleeves

When dividing for the sleeves and body, simply add fewer underarm stitches to maintain the original bust measurement.
For example, if you added 2 extra pattern repeat to each section (front, back, and sleeves), you can reduce the underarm stitches from 3 pattern repeats to 1.

Notes for Adjusting Short Rows

If you change the initial stitch count for the neckline, you’ll also need to adjust the short-row shaping.
As a general rule, begin with the back panel stitches + 2. Then, increase at the beginning and end of each row until you’ve added the sleeve stitches. Continue increasing for a few more rows to include some front-panel stitches as well.

The increases are worked as follows:

On right-side (cable) rows: increase 2 sts by working 3 dc into the first stitch.
On wrong-side (sc) rows: increase 3 sts by working 2 sc into each of the first 3 stitches.

On each right-side row, whenever you have 3 free double crochet stitches one row below, work a cable around those 3 dc.

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INSTRUCTIONS

YOKE
NECKLINE SHORT ROWS

Begin with the back panel stitches + 2. Then, increase at the beginning and end of each row until you’ve added the sleeve stitches. Continue increasing for a few more rows to include some front-panel stitches as well.

The increases are worked as follows:

On right-side (cable) rows: increase 2 sts by working 3 dc into the first stitch.
On wrong-side (sc) rows: increase 3 sts by working 2 sc into each of the first 3 stitches.

On each right-side row, whenever you have 3 free double crochet stitches one row below, work a cable around those 3 dc.

Number of stitches used as reference:

Size 1: 36sts for back and front and 24sts for the sleeve (12 pattern repeats for back and front and 8 pattern repeats for sleeves)
Size 2: 36sts for back and front and 24sts for the sleeve (12 pattern repeats for back and front and 8 pattern repeats for sleeves)
Size 3: 42sts for back and front and 27sts for the sleeves (14 pattern repeats for back and front and 9 pattern repeats for sleeves)
Size 4: 48sts for back and front and 30sts for the sleeves (16 pattern repeats for back and front and 10 pattern repeats for the sleeves)
Size 5: 48sts for back and front and 30sts for the sleeves (16 pattern repeats for back and front and 10 pattern repeats for the sleeves)

According to the numbers above, you will begin with 38 (38, 44, 50, 50) sts, increasing as described until you have 24 (24, 27, 30, 30) sts for each sleeve. Then, work a few additional rows to add a small number of stitches for the front panel.
Once these increases are complete, chain the number of stitches needed to match the back panel (so that the front panel together and back panels to have the same stitch count)

In the instructions below, the term “1 cable” indicates that you should work one cable stitch.
Make sure to read the “Stitch Pattern and Techniques” section beforehand to familiarize yourself with the stitch construction.

TIPS:

Use stitch markers to mark the back panel stitches.
At the start of each cable row, count the stitches from the first back-panel marker to the beginning of the row. Allocate 3 sts for each new cable to determine how many dc you need to work between the row’s increase and the first cable.
Work a cable stitch only when you have 3 free dc stitches one row below.

For all sizes:
Start: 38 (38, 44, 50, 50) sts, then ch2 (will not count as a dc) and begin working into the third st:
R1: 3dc into the first st, 1dc into the next 36 (36, 42, 48, 48) sts (use 2st markers to mark this sts – the back panel sts) 3dc into the last st, ch1 and turn
Total sts: 36 (36, 42, 48, 48) sts for the back, 3sts for the sleeves
R2: 2sc into the first 3sts, 1sc into the next 336 (36, 42, 48, 48) sts, 2sc into the last 3sts; ch2 and turn
Total sts: 36 (36, 42, 48, 48) sts for the back, 6sts for the sleeves
R3: 3dc into the first st, 1dc into the next 2sts, 1cable (around the 3dc 1row below), 1cable x 12 (12, 14, 16, 16) times (back panel sts), 1cable around the last 3dc 1 row below, 1dc into the next 2sts, 3dc into the last st; ch1 and turn
Total sts: 12 (12, 14, 16, 16) cables for the back, 1cable and 5sts for the sleeves
R4: 2sc into the first 3sts, 1sc in each of the following sts, except the last 3, 2sc into the last 3sts; ch2 and turn
Total sts: 36 (36, 42, 48, 48) sts for the back, 11sts for the sleeves
R5: 3dc into the first st, 1dc in next 4sts, 1cable x 2 times (these are for the sleeve), 1Cable x 12 (12, 14, 16, 16) times (back panel sts), 1cable x 2 times, 1dc in next 4sts, 3dc into the last st; ch1 and turn;
Total sts: 12 (12, 14, 16, 16) cables for the back, 2cable and 7sts for the sleeves;
R6: Rep. R4
Total sts:36 (36, 42, 48, 48) sts for the back, 16sts for the sleeves
R7: 3dc into the first st, 1dc into the next 3sts, 1Cable x 4times (for the sleeves), 1Cable x 12 (12, 14, 16, 16) times (back panel sts), 1Cable x 4times, 1dc into the next 3sts, 3dc into the last st; ch1 and turn;
Total sts: 12 (12, 14, 16, 16) cables for the back, 4cable and 6sts for the sleeves;

R8: rep. R4
Total sts: 36 (36, 42, 48, 48) sts for the back, 21sts for the sleeves

Sizes 1 and 2only

R9: 3dc into the first st 1dc into the next 2sts, 1Cable x 6 times, 1Cable x 12 times (back panel sts), 1Cable x 6 times, 1dc into the next 2sts, 3dc into the last st
Total sts: 12 cables for the back, 6cable and 5sts for the sleeves
R10: Rep. R4
Total Sts: 36sts for the back, 24sts for the sleeves, 2sts for the front panels; place a st marker into the second st and second to last st to mark the front panels;
R11: 3dc into the first st, 1dc into the next 4sts, 1Cable x 7 times (sleeves), 1Cable x 12 times (back panel), 1 Cable x 7 times (sleeves), 1dc in next 4sts, 3dc into the last st;
Total sts: 12 cables for the back panel, 7Cables and 3 sts for the sleeves, 4sts for the front panels

R12: Rep. R4
Total sts: 36sts for the back, 24sts for the sleeves, 7sts for the front panels
R13: 3dc into the first st, 1dc in next 3sts, 1Cable(front), 1Cable x 8 times (sleeve), 1Cable x 12 times (back), 1Cable x 8 times (sleeve) 1Cable, 1dc into the next 3sts, 3dc into the last st, ch10to complete the front panel;
R14: 1sc in the second ch st and in each st to the end of the row, 9fsc (foundation single crochet stitches); ch2 and turn
Total sts: 36 sts, 18sts for the front panels, 24sts for the sleeves

Continue with the “ACTUAL YOKE” section;

Size 3 only

R9: 3dc into the first st 1dc into the next 2sts, 1Cable x 6 times, 1Cable x 14 times (back panel sts), 1Cable x 6 times, 1dc into the next 2sts, 3dc into the last st
Total sts: 14 cables for the back, 6cable and 5sts for the sleeves
R10: Rep. R4
Total Sts: 42sts for the back, 26sts for the sleeves, R11: 3dc into the first st, 1dc into the next 4sts, 1Cable x 7 times (sleeves), 1Cable x 14times (back panel), 1 Cable x 7 times (sleeves), 1dc in next 4sts, 3dc into the last st;
Total sts: 14 cables for the back panel, 7Cables and 6 sts for the sleeves,1st for the front panels

R12: Rep. R4
place a st marker into the second and second to last st to mark the front panels sts.
Total sts: 42sts for the back, 27sts for the sleeves, 4sts for the front panels
R13: 3dc into the first st, 1dc in next 3sts (front), 1Cable x 9 times (sleeve), 1Cable x 14 times (back), 1Cable x 9 times (sleeve) , 1dc into the next 3sts, 3dc into the last st, ch16 to complete the front panel;
R14: 1sc into the second ch-st and in in each st to the end of the row, 15fsc, ch2 and turn
Total sts: 42 sts for back , 21 sts for front panels, 27sts for the sleeves
Note: You can work 2 more short rows to add more sts to the front panels and lower the neckline even more;
Continue with the “ACTUAL YOKE” section;

Sizes 4 and 5 only

R9: 3dc into the first st 1dc into the next 2sts, 1Cable x 6 times, 1Cable x 16 times (back panel sts), 1Cable x 6 times, 1dc into the next 2sts, 3dc into the last st
Total sts: 16 cables for the back, 6cable and 5sts for the sleeve
R10: Rep. R4
Total Sts: 48sts for the back, 26sts for the sleeves, R11: 3dc into the first st, 1dc into the next 4sts, 1Cable x 7 times (sleeves), 1Cable x 16times (back panel), 1 Cable x 7 times (sleeves), 1dc in next 4sts, 3dc into the last st;
Total sts: 16 cables for the back panel, 7Cables and 7sts for the sleeves
R12: Rep. R4.
Total sts: 48sts for the back, 30sts for the sleeves, 1st for the front panels

R13: 3dc into the first st,(front), 1dc in next 3sts, 1Cable x 9 times (sleeve), 1Cable x 16 times (back), 1Cable x 9 times (sleeve) , 1dc into the next 3sts, 3dc into the last st (front)
Total sts: 16 Cables for the back, 9 Cables and 3 sts for the sleeves, 3sts for the front panels
R14: Rep. R4
Total sts:48sts for the back, 30sts for the sleeves, 6sts for the front panels
R15: 3dc into the first st, 1dc in next 5sts (front), 1Cable x 10 times (sleeve), 1Cable x 16times (back), 1Cable x 10 times (sleeve), 1dc in next 5sts, 3dc in last st, ch17sts to complete the front panel; ch1 and turn
R16:1sc into the second st and in each st to the end of the row; 16 fsc (foundation single crochet)ch2 and turn;
Total sts: 48sts for back, 24sts for the front panels, 30sts for the sleeves
Continue with the “ACTUAL YOKE” section;

ACTUAL YOKE

Tips

Keep using stitch markers to mark the back and front panel stitches; this will be very helpful when splitting the yoke into sleeves and body.
For all sizes, there will be three rows with increases, worked between the cables.
make the increases on the cable rows (right side rows), as it’s much clearer where to place them.
When counting rows, it’s easiest to count only the cable rows (focus on the double crochet stitches between the cables).
For the yoke, work 14 (15, 17, 18, 20) rows, counting only the cable rounds.
Increases are made on every 4th, 5th, 5th, 6th, 7th cable row (right side row).
This means you will work one increase row, followed by 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) cable rows without increases.
For some sizes, you may need to work a few additional rounds to reach the total yoke length, or the last increase section may have fewer rounds without increases.

Pattern:
On the first increase row, add 1 double crochet next to each cable. The double crochet is worked after the cable, into the corresponding stitch—the third stitch of the cable;
On the sc stitches at the beginning and at the end of the row, we will increase at every third st;

R1 (Increase Round): 1dc in each of the first 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st, (1dc in the next 2 sts, 2dc in the next st) × 2 (2, 6, 4, 4) times,* 1 cable around the corresponding stitches one row below, 1dc in the next stitch (this is the stitch corresponding to the third stitch of the cable); * Repeat from * to * until the last cable is completed, stopping before the sc stitches of the second front panel.
At this point, mirror the first front panel:
After the cable, work 2 sc in the next sc stitch, then 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts.
Repeat (2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts) to the end of the row. Ch 1, turn.

R2: 1sc in each st to the end of the row;

At R3 on top of the front penel sts, work Cable sts around the dc sts one row below;
if you are not sure where to place the double crochet st in between the cables, after working a cable, count the sts behind it, to have 3sts; into the the next stm make the dc
R3: 1dc into the first st, 1Cable, 1dc in next st*; *rep. to the end of the row; ch 1 and turn

After R3 we will place again the stitch markers. If you have them in place, at this point you can check if they mark corectly the back panel and the front panels;
Our pattern repeat is now 1Cable, 1dc. The front panels and back panel stitches start with 1dc and ends with 1dc. The sleeves stitches starts with 1cable and end with cable.
For the front panels count 6 (6,7,8,8) cables and place the stitch marker into the double crochet after the last cable.
For the first sleeve count 8 (8, 9,10, 10) cables, and place a stitch marker into the dc stitch after the last cable. This marked dc stitch wil be the first st of the back panel;
for the back panel count 12 (12, 14, 16, 16) cables and place a stitch marker into the dc stitch after the last cable.
For the second sleeve count 8 (8, 9,10, 10) cables, and place a stitch marker into the dc stitch after the last cable. This marked dc stitch wil be the first st of the second front panel;
For the second front panel you should have left to the end of the row 6 (6,7,8,8) cables.

Keep the stitch markers in place until you reach the splitting round. With every increase round you will place the stitch marker into the dc that is right before and after the sleeve cable.

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R4: 1sc in each st to the end of the row; 2ch and turn;
Repeat R3 and R4 until you have completed 4 (5, 5, 6, 7) rows, counting only the dc (cable) rows—that is, the right-side rows.
the last row should be a sc row.
Next Row – Increase round: 1dc into the first st, *1cable, 2dc in next dc; *rep to the last cable, work the cable and 1dc into the last dc – the first and last dc will remain a single st – no increases in these 2 stitches;
Next row: 1sc in each st to the end of the row; ch2 and turn;
Next row: 1dc into the first st, *1cable, 1dc into the next 2sts; *rep. to the last cable, work last cable and finish the row with 1dc into the last st; ch1 and turn;
Next row: 1sc in each st to the end of the row; ch2 and turn;
Alternate the last two rows until you have completed 4 (5, 5, 6, 7) rows, counting only the dc (cable) rows—that is, the right-side rows.
The first row counted is the second increase row of the yoke. The last row should be a sc row.

Next Row – Increase round: 1dc into the first st, *1cable, 1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc; *rep to the last cable, work the cable and 1dc into the last dc; 1ch and turn
Next row: 1sc in each st to the end of the row; ch2 and turn;
Next row: 1dc into the first st, *1cable, 1dc into the next 3sts; *rep. to the last cable, work last cable and finish the row with 1dc into the last st; ch1 and turn;
Next row: 1sc in each st to the end of the row; ch2 and turn;
Alternate the last two rows until you have completed 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) rows, counting only the dc (cable) rows—that is, the right-side rows.
The first row counted is the second increase row of the yoke. The last row should be a sc row.
For Size 1 and 3 you will have to work 2 more rows to complete the Yoke Depth;
The last row of the YOKE should be a dc (cable row) so that the splitting row will be a sc row.

At the end of the yoke, you should have:
12 (12, 14, 16, 16) cables for the back panel
8 (8, 9, 10, 10) cables repeats for the sleeves
6 (6, 7, 8, 8) cables for the front panels

Splitting the Yoke into Body and Sleeves

The splitting round is worked on the wrong side (single crochet round).

For each size, underarm stitches are added.
These underarm stitches increase both the body and sleeve circumference to achieve the desired fit.

Number of underarm cables per size:
3 (4, 4, 4, 5)

Each section—front, sleeve, and back—ends with a full number of pattern repeats plus 3 additional stitches.
For this reason, when calculating the underarm stitches based on the number of cables and the pattern repeat
(1 cable + 3 dc), subtract 3 stitches so the stitch pattern remains continuous.
Underarm sts for each size: 15 (21, 21, 21, 27)

Before working the splitting row, make sure all stitch markers are placed in the correct stitches.
Remember:

Front panel stitches end with 3 dc.

Sleeve stitches begin and end with a cable.

Back panel stitches begin and end with 3 dc.

Splitting Round Pattern:

Turn your work and start from where your yarn is; work the splitting round in sc on the wrong side;
ch1, 1sc into each of the front panel sts, ch15 (21, 21, 21, 27)sts, skip the seeve sts, 1sc in each of the back panel sts, ch15 (21, 21, 21, 27)sts, skip the second sleeve, 1sc in each the second front panel sts; ch2 and turn;

BODY
Work on top of the armpit sts, dc crochet sts;
R1: 1dc into the first st, *1Cable, 1dc into the next 3 sts; *rep. to the first armpit ch, 1dc in each of the ch sts at the armpit, continue to work (1Cable, 1dc into the next 3sts) until you reach the second armpit ch, 1dc in each of the underarm sts, then continue into the established stitch pattern to the end of the row; ch1 and turn
R2: 1sc in each st to the end of the row; ch2 and turn;

Next, work the cable stitch pattern across the underarm stitches.

Since the front panels and back panel both begin and end with 3 dc, work one cable over the first 3 dc stitches of the underarm section and one cable over the last 3 dc stitches of the underarm section. In between alternate between 3dc, 1 cable

R3: 1dc into the first st, *1cable, 1dc into the next 3sts; *rep. to the last cable, finish the row with 1cable and 1dc into the last st; ch1 and turn;
R4: 1sc in each st to the end of the row;

Alternate between rows 3 and 4 until you reach the desired length or until you have 20 (22, 25, 27, 27) rows – counting only the right side rows.

The last row of the body should be a right side row (dc, Cable row)

SLEEVES

Before starting the sleeves, pay attention to how the stitch pattern (the pattern repeats) aligns with the underarm stitches.
The sleeve cables will not be positioned directly above the body cables.
When beginning the sleeve, rejoin the yarn at the underarm, making sure that your first round starts with the 3 dc section of the stitch pattern repeat.

To determine where to rejoin the yarn for the sleeve, follow these steps:

Step 1:
At the beginning of the sleeve section you should have a cable, then the first 3 stitches of the underarm chain will form a 3 dc section, followed by a cable, and then another 3 dc section.

Step 2:
Shift the beginning of the sleeve slightly toward the middle of the underarm.
Rejoin the yarn into the second set of 3 dc stitches, counting from the left corner of the sleeve stitches (with the sleeve facing the wrong side, since the first sleeve round will be worked in single crochet on the wrong side).

Step 3:
Work only single crochet stitches for this round, but make sure that the first 3 sc worked over the underarm stitches will correspond to the 3 dc section of the stitch pattern on the next (right side) round.

Sleeve Pattern

Facing the wrong side, rejoin the yarn into the indicated stitch as explained above; ch1

R1: 1sc in each stitch around; sl st into the first sc to close the round; ch2 and turn

Note:
When transitioning from the underarm chain to the sleeve stitches, work two stitches together:

One stitch into the last stitch of the underarm and one into the side row of the body.
Work two stitches together again: one into the side row (or body stitch) and one into the first stitch of the sleeve.

Repeat the same process when transitioning from the sleeve stitches back to the underarm stitches.

R2: 1dc in each of the armpit sts, *1Cable, 1dc into the next 3sts) on top od the sleeve sts, 1dc into the remaining sts of the armpit st; sl st into the first dc to close the round; ch1 and turn;
R3: 1sc in each st around, sl st into the first sc, ch
2 and turn;
R4: *1dc into the frist 3sts, 1Cable; *rep to the end of the round; sl st into the first dc; ch1 and turn;
R5: 1sc in each st around; sl st into the first sc; ch2 and turn;

Starting with R6 begin alternating between R4 and R5 until you reach the desired length

To taper the sleeves:
If you want to taper the sleeves by decreasing along their length, work the decreases on the right-side rows, using the double crochet stitches between the cables. This allows you to decrease without affecting the cable stitches themselves.

Sleeve Decreases:
You can make the first decrease at Row 6 by working the first 3 dc together, reducing the number of dc at the beginning of the round from 3 to 1.
Continue to decrease every 5th round (counting only the right-side rows).
To perform subsequent decreases, work 2dc together into the first 3-dc section of the sleeve and also into the last 3-dc section of the sleeve.
Repeat in the same positions until all dc stitches are decreased and cables sit cable next to cable.
If you want to continue decreasing after that, move to the next 3-dc section.
At the beginning of each round, it is recommended to keep the first dc stitch in between the first and last cables; this makes it easier to start the round neatly.

Work the sleeve length as indicated until you reach the desired length or until you have:
34 (36, 36, 38, 38) rounds – counting only the cable right side rounds. Last roundshould be a right side round;

Finish the sleeve with the EDGING. See the EDGING pattern below:

BUTTON BAND

Work the button band across the front panels.
First, decide which side will have the buttonholes.
Begin by working the side without buttonholes.

Button band (without buttonholes)

(Right side in this sample)

With the right side facing, rejoin the yarn in the first stitch.
Since the buttonholes are on the opposite side, the first stitch is worked into the bottom corner of the right front panel.

As a placement guide:

Work 2 stitches into each dc side row

Work 1 stitch into each sc side row

Work evenly across the right front panel, turning after each row.
R1: Ch 1 (place a stitch marker—this counts as the first stitch), work 1 sl st in each stitch to the end of the row; ch 1, turn.
R2: Work 1 sl st in each slip stitch across (insert the hook under both bars on the surface of the slip stitches from the previous row); ch 1, turn.
R3: Work 1 sl st in the back loop only of each stitch to the end of the row; ch 1, turn.
R4: Work 1 sc in the front loop only of each stitch to the end of the row.
R5–R6: Work 1 sc in each stitch to the end of the row.

Note: For the single crochet rows, you may use a smaller hook size (3.5 mm), as single crochet stitches tend to be looser than slip stitches.
Cut the yarn.

Button band (with buttonholes)

(Left side in this sample)

With the right side facing, rejoin the yarn in the first stitch.
the first stitch is worked into the top corner of the left front panel.

R1 – R4: Rep. the same pattern as for the Right Fron Panel

At R5, create the buttonholes.

Step 1: Decide how many buttons you want to use.
For this sample, 7 buttons with a 12 mm diameter were used.

Step 2: Place a stitch marker in the stitch where you want the first and last buttonholes.

Step 3: Count the stitches between the first and last markers, then divide this number by the remaining number of buttons + 1.
(Example: With 5 buttons remaining, divide the stitch count by 6.)

The result is the number of stitches allocated to each button section, including the buttonhole and the spacing between buttons.
If the result is not a whole number, adjust slightly so the buttons are evenly spaced.

Step 4: Place a stitch marker in each stitch where a buttonhole will be made.

Depending on the button size, decide how many stitches in each button section will form the buttonhole and how many will be worked between buttonholes.
For the 12 mm buttons, 2 stitches are allocated for each buttonhole.

R5: Work 1 sc in each stitch to the first marked buttonhole stitch, ch 2, skip 2 stitches, then work 1 sc in each stitch to the next marked buttonhole.
Repeat across the row; ch 1, turn.

R6: 1sc in st across (into the 2ch-sp of the buttonhole, work 2sc)
Cut the yarn

FINAL EDGING

The same FINAL EDGING pattern is used for both the sleeves and the entire cardigan.

Sleeves – Final Edging

After completing the sleeve length, begin working the FINAL EDGE.

Work the first 2 rounds using a 4 mm hook.

For the last 3 rounds, you may switch to a smaller hook (up to 3 mm), depending on how snug you want the sleeve edge to be.

Cardigan – Final Edging

The FINAL EDGE of the Aria Cardigan is worked in one continuous round around the neckline, across both front panels, and along the bottom hem.

Rejoin the yarn in any stitch at the back of the neckline.
The cardigan FINAL EDGE is worked using only a 4 mm hook.

Since the FINAL EDGE is worked entirely in slip stitches, keep your stitches loose to make the process easier

Corners & Stitch Placement

On every other round, work 3 stitches into the same stitch at the top and bottom corners of the front panels.

When working increases in slip stitch rounds, it may feel unusual to place multiple slip stitches into the same stitch, but this step is essential for achieving smooth, rounded corners.

On the following slip stitch round after an increase round, work the slip stitches of the corner into the back loop only of the 3 stitches.

Starting with the second slip stitch round, insert your hook into the back “V” of the slip stitch.
Each slip stitch creates two visible “V” shapes—one at the front and one at the back. Always work into the back V.

For a visual explanation of how the FINAL EDGE is worked, please refer to the video tutorial.

Work only on the right side

R1: ch1, 1sc in each st around, sl st with the first sc;
R2: ch1 (place a st marker – counts as the first st), 1 sl st into each st around; join with a sl st into the first ch;
R3 – R5: Rep R2

TO FINISH
Weave in all the ends and block to measurements

💾 Prefer the Printable PDF Version?

If you’d like to support my work and enjoy a beautifully formatted, ad-free version of this pattern that you can download and print, the Aria Sweater PDF is available in my shops:

Final Thoughts

The Aria Cardigan is a design that invites you to slow down and enjoy the process of garment making. With its carefully graded sizes, clear construction, and continuous stitch pattern, it offers both an engaging project and a polished finished piece.

If you choose to make your own Aria Cardigan, I would love to see it — feel free to share your version on social media and tag me. If you have any questions while working on the pattern, don’t hesitate to reach out or leave a comment below.

Happy crocheting 🤍