April 2019 Most Viewed Pattern
It’s the last day of the month and is time for the most popular pattern. April 2019 Most viewed pattern is “Sea Breeze Covet Up” and I’s so happy with that because it was actually the Most viewed pattern of 2018 as well. Is overwhelming to see how a pattern from last year is still a popular one.
So to thank you all for that today you have the Sea Breeze Cover Up pdf pattern for free in our shop and on Ravelry.
*the offer is valid until 1st of May, 10 AM, CET
I really love this dress and I am so happy with this Giveaway. Being a pattern from last year, I was pleased to see a lot of pictures with your makes and all of them are so beautiful and outstanding.
For those of you who didn’t make this dress yet, go grab your pdf pattern and make one.
So, let’s talk about the pattern and about the design.
This Sea Breeze Cover Up is worked top-down. We are working first the collar, and then we will work the back and front side of the top part separately to shape the arm-holes. After finishing the top part we will continue working on the body of the dress for as many rows as we need to get to the desired length.
When working on the body, to keep a straight line for the dress we will have to decrease on the sides. Details about how we are going to make the decrease you will find in the pattern.
When I designed this dress I was thinking at a shape that will work for this type of gradient yarn. Being a top-down, dress, the yarn worked just perfect. The only bad thing is that, when working on the top part of back and front, you will have to work 4 rounds on one side and 4 on the other until finishing the top part, to make sure that the color change will be similar.
After finishing the top part and start working on the body you just have to work as many rounds as you want until you get to the desired length.
Materials you will need for the Sea Breeze Cover Up
- Yarn
Scheepjes Whirl in color Sea Breeze Tease
- Yarn weight Fingering / 4 ply
- The needle I used is 4 mm (G – 6 US)
1 Whirl was enough for size S and I still had 2 change colors left.
So, 1 whirl will be enough for M and L sizes also. On sizes 1X Large and 2 X Large you might need a whirlette to complete the length.
From the makers the most common question about the pattern was about the decreases that are made on sides to keep a straight shape. Well, to answer this question I included in the pattern a stitch chart for the decrease and I hope this will be helpful.
You can also watch my Youtube tutorial for Little girl Summer top, which is basically the same pattern at a different scale and the decrease is made in the same way.
The only think that you don’t have to forget is to start the round with 2 slip stitches, and to skip 4 sts on sides (2 from the front and 2 from the back)
Another think that you might notice on the dress is that the front corner will go on the right. This is because we are working in circular rounds, only on the right side. If you want to avoid this you can turn after each round and working on the right side and on the wrong side.
I don’t finding like being an issue and this kind of thinks is actual the fact that the item is handmade and in all these “imperfections” I just found the beauty of an item being handmade.
No more talking :). Go check our Shop or Ravelry and grab you FREE pdf copy of Sea Breeze Cover Up. The Summer is near and it will be a great garment to wear it this summer. The Offer will end 1st of May, 10 AM, CET
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)
6 Comments
Beth
Do you continue the decrease every row as you add length?
Bykaterina
yes. You decrease with each row
Judith Rogers
I love this pattern but it would have been so helpful to have a stitch count posted after each round. dont think I will even try . I like to know if I’m on track every round. too much frogging lol does anyone know if stitch counts are on the paid pattern?
Bykaterina
The paid pattern is the same. Is not difficult. After first round you should have foundation chain sts + 6 (3 from increase front and 3 from the increase back)
Then with each round add 4 sts on your st count, until you make the join. After joining you should have same number of sts until the end
DeeAnne
Darn, didn’t find you before it was too late for the April freebie.
Bykaterina
It looks like it will be the May pattern too ???????????? So you can get it this month