Tag

crochet for summer

Browsing

Even if it’s summer you will need this Plaid Summer Sweater in your wardrobe for those cold evenings or for those cold days.

And why not have it? It’s so light and also chic and I would say just perfect ???

Pentru postarea in limba romana, click aici

 

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

I love it and I just have the feeling that I am saying that about all my patterns ??.

This pattern is for sizes from S to XXL. We will work each square individual and we will join them as we go.

We will make the plaid summer sweater bigger just by adding more stitches on the square.

I used Scheepjes SoftFun. Is a DK Yarn, a mix of cotton and acrylic. The recommended size hook is 3.5 – 4 mm ( E – G ) and I used a 4.5 mm crochet hook ( size 7 US).

Here you can find some other yarn suggestions

You will approximate need:

  • S – 300 grams / 840 m / 915 yds
  • M – 325 grams / 910 m / 990 yds
  • L – 350 grams / 970 m / 1050 yds
  • XL – 370 grams / 1030 m / 1120 yds
  • XXL – 400 grams / 1100 m / 1200 yds

This is in total but you will need to split this values in 2 and choose 2 color that you like.

From Scheepjes SoftFun I used Mint Green and Dark Grey.

Final measurements of the sweater

  • S – Bust 92 cm ( 36.5 “), Length 58 cm ( 23 “)
  • M – Bust 104 cm ( 41 “) , Length 65 cm (25.5 “)
  • L – Bust 112 cm (44 “), Length 70 cm ( 27.5 “)
  • XL – Bust 124 cm ( 49″), Length 62 cm ( 24.5 “) or 77 cm (30 “)
  • XXL – Bust 132 cm (52″), Length 66 cm (26 “) or 82 cm (32,5 “)

Gauge

20 st = 11.5 cm ( 4.5″) ( filet stitch: 1 dc, ch 1, skip 1)

10 rows = 11.5 cm ( 4.5″)

With each bigger size the square will be bigger. So, the pattern is the same for all sizes.

  • S – 20 sts + 3 and 10 rows
  • M – 22 sts +3 and 11 rows
  • L – 24 sts +3 and 12 rows
  • XL – 26 sts +3 and 13 rows
  • XXL – 28 sts + 3 and 14 rows

We will use Filet Stitch:

Ch 4, skip 1st st, 1 dc in the next, [ch 1, skip 1, 1 dc] and repeat the section in [ ] to the end of the row. Repeat this row as pattern requires.

We will work 2 identical panels for back side and front side.

I guess, with all this being said we can start the this Plaid Summer Sweater.

Begin by making the first square according with the size in which you want to make this Plaid Summer Sweater.

Plaid summer sweater square 1

Row 1 of squares

After making the 1 st square, change the color and we will begin to work square 2, but not on the top of the square as normal but on the side.

We will adding squares on the right until we get to the width that we need.

For all sizes we will have in total 4 squares. Remember that for each size the square has different measurements.

After finishing square #2 we will add in the same manner 2 more.

plaid summer sweater row 1

Well here is a sketch of the row 1.

Row 2 of squares

As you saw we alternate the colors with each square.

To begin the row 2, change the color and make the 1st square of the second row on the top of the last one made on the previous row.

Plaid summer sweater row 2

Now beginning with square #2 of the second row we will start to join the squares with the correspondent square of the previous row.

Is important from now on to begin each of the next 3 squares on right side of your work, because the join with the other row will look better in this way.

To be easy to understand how we will work this 2nd row here is the sketch.

plaid summer sweater row 2

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

So, the second square will start in the opposite corner where the yarn is after finishing the square #1.

Beginning with square #2, at the end of each row we will join with the correspondent row of the square on the previous row.

In general this will be the 2 situation of joining.

plaid summer sweater joining squares

On second row we have the first situation.

So, at the end of the row, ch 1, sl st with the last dc of the correspondent row of the square on the previous row, ch 2, sl st with the last dc of the next row of the previous square, ch 1 and turn.

Continue with the stitch to the end of the row.

With the square #3 and #4 you will proceed the same as #2.

Plaid summer sweater row 2

Row 3 of squares

As we made on the 2nd row, we will change color and make the first square on the top of the last one.

Now as I said, is important to join the squares on the right side of your work.

So, on row 3 we will work the squares 2 to 4 on the top of the ones made on previous row, and join them with the squares worked before on the current row.

Here is the sketch

plaid summer sweater row 3

Row 4 it will be the same as row 2. And row 5 the same as row 3.

As I said the bigger the square is the bigger the size. That’s why for sizes XL and XXL  I let 2 measurements of length.

You will choose if you want to work 4 or 5 rows on these sizes.

After finishing all 4 or 5 rows, one panel is done and we will have to proceed the same in the second one.

Now that we have the 2 panels is time to assemble.

plaid summer sweater panel

Sew on the shoulders the width of one square on each side.

Let 1 square and a half for the arm hole and sew the side edges.

Sleeves

I worked the sleeves, one with a color and one with the other.

We will work in rounds.

Insert the yarn into the stitch at the armpit.

Chain 4 and make the filet stitch all over the arm hole edge.

At the end of the round sl st with the 3rd stitch of the starting chain.

Repeat this row for as many rows as you want until you get to the desired length of the sleeve.

I made 26 rows and then I added a border of 2 rounds in single crochet made with the other color.

Repeat the same with the other sleeve.

At the end I added 1 row in single crochet on the collar and 2 rows in sc on the bottom.

And this was it.

Plaid summer sweater

You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:

 

I found this pattern fun to make and also easy, but what I enjoyed the most is because is different. Hope you will like it and give it a try.

Bellow you will find the video tutorial.

 

 

I love to make summer clothes in crochet so here I am with another pattern with my new Enjoy Summer Top.

Pentru postarea in limba romana, click aici

Enjoy Summer Top

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

or

You can purchase it with a 35% off in the Crochet Patterns for Summer Bundle along with other 6 crochet patterns.

 

Love it ???. You can use it as a top with a pair of jeans or leggings or you can use it as a beach dress.

I let a small opening on the sides because even if is crochet, has to be sexy. What I love the most is that anyone can wear one of this, that’s why this pattern is available in multiple sizes, from S to XXL.

I loved making this because it was easy and fast, so you have to try it.

Final measurements for each size are:

  • S – Bust 90 cm (36 “)
  • M – Bust 100 cm ( 40 “)
  • L – Bust 110 cm ( 44 “)
  • XL – Bust 120 cm (48 “)
  • XXL – Bust 130 cm (52 “)

The length is the same for all sizes, 70 cm (28″), but you can adjust it as you want.

As you saw in the pictures we will make a circle, that will be the center motif of this Enjoy summer Top and then we will transform this circle into a square.

I will give you the stitch numbers and rows for each size according to my gauge, but if you want to use another type of yarn or you didn’t get to the gauge, just keep the pattern of the circle until you get to the desired width. The width has to be half of the bust or your hips circumference.

I used for this Enjoy Summer Top, Scheepjes Cotton 8. This is a Fingering, Super Fine weight yarn, but you can use Fine weight too. I used a 3.5 mm (  E – 4 US Size)  crochet hook.

You will approximate need for each size:

  • S – 850 yds ( 780 m/ 230 grams)
  • M – 940 yds (860 m/250 grams)
  • L – 1030 yds (940 m/280 grams)
  • XL – 1120 yds (1020 m/300 grams)
  • XXL – 1200 yds (1100 m /350 grams)

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

  • Ch – chain
  • Dc – double crochet
  • St (s) – stitch (es)
  • Sl st – slip stitch
  • Inc – increase

Special Stitches

V st – 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the same ch 1 space of the V st of the previous round.

Inc – 1 dc, ch 1,1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the same ch 1 space.

Gauge

18 dc = 10 cm (4 “)

8 rows = 10 cm (4 “)

With all that info set, let’s begin

Enjoy Summer Top

Back side

We will start with a magic ring

For all Sizes

Round 1

Ch3, 11 dc inside the ring. Sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.

Round 2

Ch 3, 1 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st to the end of the round. Sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.

Round 3

Ch 4, 1 dc in the same st, ch 1, skip 1 st,[ 1 V st in the next, ch 1, skip 1 st] – repeat this section to the end of the round. Sl st with the 3 rd st of the turning ch.

Round 4

Ch 4, in the first space make 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 V st in the next space (ch 1 of the previous row V st), ch 1,[ Inc in the next space, ch 1, 1 V st in the next space, ch 1] – repeat the section between [ ] to the end of the round. Sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain.

Round 5

Ch 4, 1 dc in the same space, ch 1, 1 V st in the next ch 1 spaces until you get to the first V st after the inc made on the previous row and make in this space 1 inc. Continue to the end of the round and sl st with the 3rd st of the starting ch.

 

Enjoy Summer Top first 6 rows

Beginning with round 5 we will follow the same pattern until row 15:

1 V st in each ch 1 space ( of the V sts of the previous round) , 1 Inc in the V st next to the inc made on the previous round.

I hate counting stitches, that’s why I tried to find a pattern that will help not to keep counting sts ??

At row 6 I changed the color, but you are free to play with colors as you wish.

Rounds 6 – 15

Repeat round 5

Round 16

Before round 16 I notice that on my circle, the edges began to curl, so at round 16 I didn’t increased I just made 1 V st in each V st of the previous round.

Round 17

1 V st in each V st of the previous round, 1 inc in the st that is after the inc on the round before the previous.

Keep repeating the  rounds 16 and 17 until you get to the desired width or until you have in total:

  • S – 19 rounds (83 V sts)
  • M – 24 rounds (93 V sts)
  • L – 29 rounds ( 103 V sts)
  • XL – 34 rounds ( 113 V sts)
  • XXL – 39 round ( 123 V sts)

After finishing the circle is time to transform it in a square.

This is how we will do that:

Lay the circle flat. You will notice 4 segments that are straight ( top, bottom and side edges). Next to the straight segment put a notebook or a cardboard or something with straight and hard edges and mark the first st that is beginning to be far from the notebook.

enjoy summer top

Proceed the same until you have the first corner marked.

Now you will have to count the V sts and make sure that you have the same number of sts on the corners and on the straight lines that are opposite.

You notice that at the end of the rounds we have 1 V st in plus, but is not such a big deal. Just let this st on the one side edge and let the top and the bottom with the same number of V sts.

Size S

  • 10 V sts for the corners,
  • 10 V sts for the straight line on the top and on the bottom,
  • 11 V sts one side edges (on one side you will have with 1 V st more)

Size M

  • 12 V sts for the corners
  • 11 V sts for the straight lines ( all 4)

Size L

  • 13 V sts for the corners
  • 12 V sts for the straight lines on the top and on the bottom
  • 13 sts on the side edges

Size XL

  • 14 V sts for the corners
  • 14 V sts for the straight lines

Size XXL

  • 15  V sts for the corners
  • 15 V sts for the straight lines on top and bottom
  • 16 V sts for the side edges

After you marked the sts for the corners is time to transform the circle in square.

We will work each corner separately.

Begin working on the right side and insert the hook and yarn in the first st of the corner.

Row 1

Ch 4, 1 V st in the next V st, 1 V st in each V st until you have 2 V sts left. In these 2 make 1 dc in the first, ch 1, 1 dc in the last V st. Turn

In this way we will decrease at the beginning and at the end of each row.

Repeat row 1 until you have no sts left.

Proceed the same with all corners.

This is how your square will look after you finish all the corners.

enjoy summer top square

Is not perfect, but is a square ??

Now after you have the square, all you have to do is to work several more rows on the top and on the bottom until you get to the desired length.

I made 13 more rows on each side.

Now that you have the desired length the back side of the Enjoy summer Top is done and you will have to make the front part in the same way.

Then, when yoh have both parts, join them to finish the Top.

Sew on the shoulders 6 V sts on each side, approx 8-9 cm.

Let for the arm holes 20 cm for sizes S and M, and 23 – 25 cm for larger sizes. Then sew the side edges. I let a split on each side of 13 rows.

And this was it.

Enjoy summer top

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

or

You can purchase it with a 35% off in the Crochet Patterns for Summer Bundle along with other 6 crochet patterns.

Hope you like it. Bellow you will find the video tutorial.

Enjoy crochet!

Please join our Facebook Group or tag @bykaterinacrochet on Instagram and share your pictures.

 

https://ro.pinterest.com/katerina6795/free-crochet-patterns/

Enjoy Summer Top. Free crochet pattern & Video Tutorial

Hey you all!! I am happily in vacation, but even so I wanted to share with you this easy and fun Happy Colors Scrappy Blouse.

Pentru postarea in limba romana, click aici

Happy colors scrappy yarn

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Is so easy to make, worked in one single piece, from top to bottom. No sewing and a very simple stitch.

I used 4 colors on this, but you can use as many colors as you want or as you have. I had less then one skein of each color and was enough for S size.

The yarn I used is Scheepjes Cahlista. Is a 100% cotton yarn and the recommended needle is 4.5 – 5 mm. I used 4.5 (size 7 US), but I worked looser then usual.

The approximate amount of yarn you will need

  • Size S – 200 grams (340 meters /370 yds)
  • Size M – 220 grams (380 m / 420 yds)
  • Size L – 250 grams (420 m / 460 yds)
  • Size XL – 270 grams (450 m / 490 yds)
  • Size XXL – 300 grams (500 m / 550 yds)

this approximate yardage is for the shorter blouse. if you want to make it longer, make sure you have some extra yarn

The final bust measurements for the Happy Colors Scrappy Blouse are:

  • Size S – 90 cm ( 36 “)
  • Size M – 100 cm (39,5 “)
  • Size L – 110 cm (43″)
  • Size XL – 120 cm (47 “)
  • Size XXL – 130 cm (51 “)

Gauge

14 dc – 10 cm (4 “)

7 rows – 10 cm ( 4 “)

Abbreviations used in this pattern:

  • Ch – chain
  • Dc – double crochet
  • St(s) – stitch(es)
  • V st – V stitch (see the pattern bellow)

Special stitches

V stitch

In the 1 ch space from the previous row: 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc.

On the foundation ch: 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in the same st. Skip 2 sts and repeat to the end of the row.

Ok. Let’s begin this beautiful Happy Colors Scrappy Blouse.

happy colors scrappy blouse

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Like I said this blouse is worked from top to bottom in circular rounds.

Start with the foundation chain. We will work this Happy Colors Scrappy Blouse in V stitch ( see the pattern above) so we will need a multiple of 3 plus 1 sts.

  • Size S – 160 sts
  • Size M – 178 sts
  • Size L – 193 sts
  • Size XL – 214 sts
  • Size XXL – 241 sts

Round 1

for all sizes

After finishing the foundation chain, slip stitch and join.

Ch 3, [skip the next 2 sts, V st in the next (as described above ] – repeat this section to the end of the round. Finish the round with a slip stitch with the 3rd stitch of the starting chain.

You will have at the end of round 1

  • Size S – 53 V sts
  • Size M – 59 V sts
  • Size L – 64 V sts
  • Sizs XL – 71 V sts
  • Size XXL – 80 V sts

happy colors scrappy blouse

Round 2

Ch 3, [V st in the next ch 1 space from the previous round] – repeat to the end of the round, slip stitch with the 3rd st of the starting chain.

Now repeat row 2 until you have in total:

  • Size S – 8 rounds
  • Size M – 9 rounds
  • Size L – 10 rounds
  • Size XL – 11 rounds
  • Size XXL – 12 rounds

Happy colors Scrappy blouse

After finishing this first part, is time to let the sleeves apart and continue with the body of the blouse.

We will use stitch markers and count the Vs.

Begin to count from the beginning of the row ( the middle back). As a reference use the ch 3 that you make at the beginning of the round and count:

For size S

  • 9 V sts to the left and 9 to the right. Mark the 9th st. You will have for the back 18 V sts in total.
  • Count 8 V sts for the sleeve. Mark the 9th V st (between the markers you will have 8 V sts for the sleeve. Proceed the same with the other sleeve.
  • Now you have 4 markers and left for the front 19 V sts.

For size M

  • 10  V sts to the left and right. Mark the 10th V st
  • 8 V sts for sleeves
  • 23 V sts for the front

For size L

  • 11 V sts to the left and right from the middle back
  • 9 V sts for the sleeves
  • 25 V sts for the front

For size XL

  • 13 V sts to the left and tight from the middle back
  • 9 V sts for the sleeve
  • 27 V sts for the front

For size XXL

  • 14 V sts to the left and right from the middle back
  • 11 V sts for the sleeves
  • 30 V sts for the front

Now that you have all 4 stitch markers in their place is time to continue our Happy Colors Scrappy Blouse.

As you may figure it out, you can change the colors as you want or you can use one single color.

Round 9/10/11/12/13

Ch 3, V stitch to the first stitch marker. In the ch 1 space in which you have the stitch marker make the last V st and then chain:

  • For size S – 14 sts
  • For size M – 20 sts
  • For size L – 23 sts
  • For size XL – 26 sts
  • For size XXL – 26 sts

Skip the sleeve V sts and join with the 2nd stitch marker. 1 V st in the ch 1 space where the stitch marker is and continue with the V stitch until the 3rd stitch marker. Make the last V st in the ch 1 space where the stitch marker is then ch the same number of sts as for the other side.

Skip the sts for the sleeve and beginning with the 4th stitch marker make the V st to the end of the round. Slip stitch with the 3rd st of the starting ch.

Round 10/11/12/13/14

Ch 3, V st until the armpit chain. Skip 2 sts, V st in the next. Repeat until the end of the chain. At the end you should have 2 sts left. Skip those 2 and continue with the V st to the other armpit chain. Repeat the same as on the first chain and then continue with the V st to the end of the round. Slip stitch with the 3rd st of the starting chain.

From now on just make 1 V st in each ch 1 space for as many rows as you want until you get to the desired length. You can make a short blouse like me or a tunic or why not a dress.

To finish it add a cord or sew an elastic band on the top, just to make sure that the blouse will stay on your shoulders?.

And this was it. A very fast and fun project and a perfect way to make something beautiful of that yarn left over.

Happy Colors Scrappy Blouse

 

You can purchase the easy printable pdf version of this pattern here.

Hope you liked this pattern too. Bellow you will find the video tutorial on how I made this blouse.

Enjoy crochet!

https://ro.pinterest.com/katerina6795/free-crochet-patterns/

Happy Colors Scrappy Blouse. Free Pattern and Video Tutorial