Shining Bloom Market Bag Crochet Pattern
I had in mind making this Shining Bloom Market Bag since last year!! Now, after making this one, I am happy I didn’t, because I used a different yarn than planned initial and I am more than pleased with the end result.
The more complicated thing and time consuming for me as a designer is grading a pattern. That’s why from time to time I try to help my brain and give it a break with some accessories or some other design than garments.
You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:
Even if this wasn’t an easy pattern to write, with all diagrams and trying to explain each step, at least I didn’t have the math :).
But let’s see what you will need and how to make this Shining Bloom Market bag.
Materials you will need
- Category 3, Light weight yarn
- 4.5 mm crochet hook
- Yarn needle for wave in ends
- Scissors
Notes about design
This pattern requires techniques as single crochet, double crochet, chain stitches and double crochet stitches worked in groups of 2 or 4.
The bag is worked up from squares which are joined as we go.
At the end the bag’s straps are added.
The bag can be worked in any yarn weight you want. Using a thinner yarn will result a smaller bag and using a thicker yarn you will have in the end a bigger bag.
Final Measurements
Final measurements of the bag are listed below.
Width a: 32 cm
High b: 34 cm
How much yarn do you need?
For this bag I used Durable Glam by Durable Yarn. Each skein has 50 grams and approximate 130 m.
To complete the bag you will need almost 3 skeins.
Abbreviations used in this pattern
- Ch – chain
- Sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- 2 dc group – work 2 dc in the same space and close together
- 3 dc group – work 3 dc, each in one stitch and close them together
- 4 dc group – work 4 dc, each in one stitch and close them together
- St(s) – stitch (es)
- Ss – slip stitch
- Sp – space
- R| – round
You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:
Gauge
1 square measures 15 cm in diagonal
About the stitch pattern
Each square has 4 rounds and each round has a different stitch pattern.
Below you can find the stitch chart for one square:
Pattern Notes
Ch 3 at the beginning of each round counts as first dc.
End each round with a ss
All the rounds are worked only on the right side.
Ch 1 at the beginning of a round which starts with a sc stitch doesn’t count as first st.
Instructions
We will start working the squares for the front side of the bag.
On the front side you will have in total 8 squares, placed like in the diagram below.
The 2 sides squares and the bottom one will be fold in half and half of them will be on the back side of the bag.
Start| Make a magic ring
R1| 3 ch sts, 3 dc, 3 ch sts, *4 dc, 3 ch st. *Repeat 3 times. Ss with the 3rd st of the starting ch.
R2| 3 ch sts, 3 dc group, 3 ch sts, (2dc group, 3 ch sts, 2 dc group) in the 3 ch-sp, 3 ch sts, *4dc group, 3 ch sts, 2dc group, 3 ch sts, 2 dc group) in the 3 ch-sp, 3 ch sts. *Repeat 3 times. Ss with the 3rd st of the starting ch.
R3| 1 ch st, 1 sc in the same st, 3 ch sts, in the 3 ch-sp from the corner:[2 dc group, (3 ch st, 2 dc group) 3 times], 3 ch sts, *1 sc in the 4 dc group, 3 ch st, in the 3 ch-sp from the corner:[2 dc group, (3 ch st, 2 dc group) 3 times], 3 ch sts. *Repeat 3 times
R4| 1 ch st, 1 sc, 5 ch st, 1 sc in the next 3 ch st – sp, 5 ch st, 1 sc in the next 3 ch – sp, 5 ch st, 1 sc in the corner, in the corner: (7 ch st, 1 sc ), *5 ch sts, [1 sc in the next 3 ch sts – sp, 5 ch sts] repeat 4 times to the corner; in the corner: (1 sc, 7 ch sts, 1 sc).*Repeat on all sides of the square. Finish the round with 5 ch st, 1 sc in the next 3 ch sts- sp, 5 ch sts and join with the 1st sc.
This was the first square. With the next ones you will have to work up to round 3. The 4th round will be worked while joining it with the others squares.
You will start assemble the front side of the bag, following the diagram above. Start with the first 2 squares on the top.
Second square will be joined only in one corner. The others you will have to join them in one complete side, or 2 or even 3.
You can Purchase the easy printable PDF version of this pattern here:
Let’s see how we are joining the squares:
Make the first 3 rounds of the square B. Begin the round 4 but only until you get to the corner. In the 3 chain space from the corner chain 3 (instead of 7).
Grab the square A, and join B with A corner with 1 sc (make sure that A is on the wrong side). Ch 3 and make another sc in the same ch 3 space of the corner of square B.
On the second square, after joining the corner you will have to continue working the round 4 as usual.
When you will have to join 2 squares on an entire side or even 2 or 3 you will have to proceed like this:
Make the first 3 rounds of the square C. Begin the round 4 but only until you get to the corner. In the 3 chain space from the corner chain 3 (instead of 7).
Grab the square B, and join C with B corner with 1 sc . Ch 3 and make another sc in the same ch 3 space on the corner of square C.
Ch 2 and join with one sc with the next ch 3 apace of square B.
Ch 2, 1 sc in the next 3 ch space of square C.
And continue like this until the next corner. On the corner proceed the same as on the first corner.
Continue in the same way if you have to join the current square with another square side. After you finish joining, complete the round 4.
Continue like this until you joined all 8 squares needed for the front side of the bag.
On the back side of the back you will have to add only 5 squares following the diagram below:
The gray half squares, are the ones you made on the front side, so on the back side you will have to add only 5 squares (the red ones) following the diagram above.
Top edging
After joining all the squares and you have now a bag shape, we will make a top border.
We will use sc stitches, all around the top.
Join the yarn on one side of one square and make sc in each ch space. If you have a 5 ch space for example, you will make 4 sc. The last sc from the current ch space and the first one from the next ch space are worked together like a decrease.
When you get to a “valley”, where 2 squares are joined in corners, make a 3 sc decrease, working 3 sc together: 1st sc will be the last st of one corner, 2nd one wil be in the sc st made for joining and the 3rd one will be the 1st sc of the next corner space.
On the 2nd round of the border, make 1 sc in each sc, and a 3 sc decrease in each “valley”.
Fasten off.
Bag straps
Make 2, one on the front side and one for the wrong side.
One bag strap is worked from the right top corner to the left top corner.
Mark 6 sts on the top corners.
R1| Join the yarn in the first inside st. Ch 70 sts, or as many sts as you want depending on the desired length. Join with a ss with the inside st of the other side. Make another ss into the next st and turn.
R2| 1 sc in each st, join with a ss into the next 2 sts and turn
R3| Repeat R2
R4| Repeat R2
Fasten off.
Repeat the same for the second strap.
To Finish
Wave in all ends and block if needed.
You can find a full video tutorial here
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)
