Morning Light Skirt – Free Crochet Pattern (Lightweight & Easy for Spring)

The Morning Light Skirt is part of the Light & Mist Collection, a small capsule of crochet garments designed to be worn together or mixed and matched into effortless, everyday outfits.

This skirt was created with simplicity and versatility in mind. The stitch pattern gives it a soft texture and beautiful drape, while the shape makes it easy to wear in different ways — whether styled casually or as part of a coordinated set.

It’s one of those pieces that feels light, comfortable, and natural to wear, and that you can easily pair with items you already have in your wardrobe.

Below you will find the full video tutorial and all the details you need to make your own Morning Light Skirt.

🧶 Get the Written Pattern

If you prefer to follow a written, ad-free version of the pattern, you can find it in my shops:

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• Website Shop
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MATERIALS

• Yarn: Size 2 , Sport weight yarn
• Crochet Hook:
  o 4 mm crochet hook
• 3 pieces 5mm elastic bands (Measure around your waist while slightly stretching the elastic band, ensuring it can comfortably slide over your hips as well.)
• yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

NOTES ABOUT DESIGN

The skirt is worked from the waist down in the round, then divided into front and back sections to create the slits.

The design features a subtle A-line shape, achieved through three evenly spaced increase rounds. This allows the skirt to sit comfortably over the hips while maintaining a clean silhouette.

The number of stitches increased is proportional to each size, ensuring a consistent drape and fit across all sizes.
Slits are positioned at ¼ and ¾ of the half stitchcount, aligning naturally with the legs for ease of movement and a balanced look.

The length is fully customizable. You can adjust both the section before the slits and the slit length to suit your height and preferred style.

For best results, try on the skirt before starting the slits and position them at a flattering point on your leg.

The skirt is designed with approx. 4–6 cm (1.5–2.5”) of positive ease at the hips. For a more fitted look, choose a size with less ease.

Yarn choice may affect the final look and drape. Fibers with less elasticity (such as cotton, linen, or blends) will result in a more structured fabric, while softer fibers will create a more fluid silhouette.

Due to differences in tension, it is recommended to check gauge and adjust hook size if needed to achieve the intended measurements.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

The Morning Light Skirt Pattern is available in 9 sizes, from XS up to 5X Large. The model is 168 cm tall, with a 93 cm hips circumference (the most proeminent part), and wears a size Extra Small.
The numbers are written below as follows: XS (S, M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL);

Final Measurements of the Morning Light Skirt

Waist a:
The waist is adjustable using an elastic band.
The measurement will vary when laid flat, depending on how tight you prefer the fit and the elasticity of the band used.
Ensure the waistband can comfortably stretch to fit over your hips.

Hips Circ. b:
97 (101, 105, 109) (116, 126, 139, 145, 158) cm
38 (40, 41.5, 43) (45.5, 49.5, 54.5, 57, 62

Bottom Circ.c:
122 (126, 131, 137) (147, 158, 174, 179, 196) cm
48 (49.5, 51.5, 54) (58, 62, 68.5, 70.5, 77)

Length d:
64 (64, 66, 66) (68, 68, 70, 70, 72) cm
25 (25, 26, 26) (27, 27, 27.5, 27.5, 28.5)”

ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
sl st / ss – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
R – row
** – repeated section.

TENSION

Using 4 mm crochet hook in the main stitch pattern (2dc rounds and 2mesh stitch rounds)

19sts = 10 cm
9 rows = 11 cm

YARN

For the Morning Light Skirt, I used:Rococo from Hobbii yarn in color 02 Ivory. Composition: 36% Viscose, 34% Cotton, 30% Linen. One cake has 100 g and 272 m
For each size, you will approximately need: 1360 (1410, 1545, 1635) (1815, 1960, 2235, 2355, 2655) m or 1485 (1545, 1690, 1790) (1985, 2145, 2445, 2575, 2900) yds
Approx. 500 (520, 570, 600) (670, 720, 820, 865, 975) g, or 5 (6, 6, 7) (7, 8, 9, 9, 10) cakes.

YARN SUBSTITUTION

The sample is made using Hobbii Rococo (272 m / 100 g), a plant-based blend of viscose, cotton, and linen.

For a similar result, choose a yarn that meets the following criteria:

Approx. 260–300 m per 100 g
Suitable for a 3.5–4 mm hook
Cotton, linen, viscose, or blends of these fibers
Low elasticity with good stitch definition

SUGGESTED SUBSTITUTES:

Wooladdicts Pride (Lang Yarns) – very close match in fiber content and meterage; can be used as a direct substitute
Wooladdicts Linello (Lang Yarns) – similar blend with a slightly more textured, multicolored effect
Drops Belle (Drops Design) – cotton/viscose/linen blend; slightly heavier, may result in a denser fabric
Katia Linen or similar cotton-linen blends (Katia) – check meterage to match the recommended range
Scheepjes linen or cotton-linen blends – slightly softer finish with less structure

When substituting yarn, prioritize matching the meterage (m per 100 g) rather than the yarn weight category, as naming conventions may vary between brands.

Keep in mind that different fibers may affect the drape, stitch definition, and the visibility of joining rounds.

INSTRUCTIONS
Work in the round for the section before the slits, turning after each round. This ensures the stitch pattern has the same appearance as the slit section, which is worked flat.
To create a less visible join, use a stacked single crochet (work 1 sc on top of another) to replace the first double crochet. In the instructions below, this starting stitch is referred to as a double crochet (dc).

All Sizes

The skirt length is worked in two sections: Section 1 (before the slits) and Section 2 (with the slits).

For all sizes, Section 1 includes three increase rounds, with
16 (16, 16, 18) (20, 20, 22, 22, 24) sts increased per round.

The first increase round is worked on the first round, the second increase round is worked approximately halfway through Section 1, and the third increase round is worked two rounds before starting the slits.

The length of both sections is adjustable. You can add or reduce rows to position the slits at your preferred point for the most comfortable and flattering fit.

Start: ch 184 (192, 200, 207) (220, 240, 264, 275, 300); join with a sl st into the first ch to make a circle;

Section 1 (before slits)

Sizes XS, M, L, 4XL, 5XL
R1 Increase Round) : *1dc in next 10 (11, 10, 11, 11) sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 11 (12, 11, 12, 12) sts, 2dc in next; *rep to the end of the round; turn
Total sts: 200 (216, 225, 297, 324) sts
R2: 1dc in each st to the end of the round; turn
Rep. R2 until you have 16 (18, 18, 20, 21) rounds
Next Round ( increase round): *1dc in next 11 (12, 11, 12, 12) sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 12 (13, 12, 13, 13) sts, 2dc in next st; *rep to the end of the round; turn
Total sts: 216 (232, 243, 319, 348) sts
Rep. R2 until you have 32 (34, 34, 38, 40) rounds

Next Round (increase round): *1dc in next 12 (13, 12, 13, 13) sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in next 13 (14, 13, 14, 14) sts. 2dc in next st; *rep. to the end of the round; turn
Total sts: 232 (248, 261, 341, 372) sts
Rep. R2 until you have in total 36 (38, 38, 42, 44) rounds;
Section 1 is done, move to Section 2

Section 1 (before slits)

Sizes S, XL, XXL, 3XL
R1 (Increase Round): *1dc into the next 15 (19, 19, 21) sts, 2dc in next st; *rep to the end of the round; turn
Total sts: 208 (240, 260, 286) sts
R2: 1dc in each st around; turn
Rep. R2 until you have 16 (19, 19, 20) rounds
Next Round (Increase round): *1dc into the next 16 (20, 20, 22) sts, 2dc in next st; *rep to the end of the round; turn
Total sts: 224 (260, 280, 308) sts
Rep. R2 until you have: 32 (36, 36, 38) rounds
Next round (Increase round): *1dc into the next 17 (21, 21, 23) sts, 2dc in next st; *rep to the end of the round; turn
Total sts: 240 (280, 300, 330) sts
Rep. R2 until you have 36 (40, 40, 42) rounds
Section 1 is done, move to Section 2

Section 2 (with the slits)
Use two stitch markers to divide the skirt into two equal sections. Place one marker in the first stitch of the round (the joining point), then count half of the total stitches and place a second marker. This divides the skirt into front and back panels.

To mark the slits, work across the front panel only:

Divide the front stitches into 4 equal parts.
After the first ¼, place a stitch marker (first slit).
Then count 2/4 stitches and place another marker (second slit).
You should have ¼ of the stitches remaining.

For a neater finish, move each slit marker 2 stitches inward. These stitches will be used to create the slit edging.

You will now work the skirt in two sections:
One section from the first slit marker, across the entire back panel, to the second slit marker.
The second section across the remaining front panel stitches.

Because the stitch counts for all sizes cannot be divided evenly by 2 and then by 4, follow the stitch counts provided below when placing your markers. After placing the markers, try on the skirt to ensure the slits are positioned as desired, and adjust if needed.

Section 1: 174(180, 186, 196) (210, 225, 247, 256, 279) sts
Section 2: 54 (56, 58, 61) (66, 71, 79, 81, 89) sts

Next:
Work the two sections indicidually until you reach the desired length of the skirt or until you have 36 (36, 38, 38) (40, 40, 42, 42, 44) rows

EDGING
After reaching the desired length of the skirt, proceed with the edging.

First, work the slit edging, then continue with the bottom edge, working each section individually.

When working the slit edging, begin at the bottom corner of the slit on the right side. Work up along one edge of the slit, then continue across the top and down the other edge.

At the top of the slit, you will find the two stitches left unworked to accommodate the edging.

On the first row, work the last stitch of one edge together with the first horizontal stitch at the top, then work the second horizontal stitch together with the first stitch of the opposite edge.
On the following row, skip these joined stitches and continue working the edge as established.
When work the first row into the side rows, work 2sc in each dc side row;

For a clearer understanding of this step, you can follow the video tutorial for a visual demonstration.

Edging Pattern

The Edging pattern is the same for both, the bottom edge and the slit edge;
Work the slits edge as described above;

R1: 1sc in each st (for slits edging work the top sts as indicated); ch1 and turn
R2: 1 sl st in each st to the end of the row;
R3 (optional): Rep. R2

Note:
You can use a different stitch pattern for the edging if you prefer. The instructions for the slit section remain the same, regardless of the stitch pattern used.

WAISTBAND
I used three elastic bands, each 5 mm wide.

Measure around your waist while slightly stretching the elastic, ensuring it can comfortably slide over your hips as well. The final length will vary depending on how stretchy your elastic is, so it’s best to measure rather than rely on a fixed value.

Once measured, sew each elastic band at the ends to form a circle. You should now have three separate elastic loops.

Join the yarn to any stitch along the waistband opening.

Round 1: Ch 1, work sc stitches over the first elastic band all the way around. Join with a sl st to the first sc.

Round 2: Ch 1, work sc stitches in each stitch around;

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for each additional elastic band you are using. For example, if you’re using three bands, repeat R1 and R2 two more times.

TO FINISH
Weave in all the ends and block to measurements

I hope you enjoy making this skirt as much as I enjoyed designing it 💛

If you decide to make one, I would love to see your version — you can tag me so I can share your work.

You can also find the full Light & Mist Collection, including matching pieces designed to be worn together or styled in different ways.

Happy crocheting ✨