Little Man Sweater
This Little Man Sweater was the first item that I made from the series of Christmas Gifts.
I loved it very much that I made 2 and I hope you will love it too and you will make one for your little men.
Pentru postarea in limba romana, click aici

You can purchase the easy printable add-free pdf pattern from here
Well, o didn’t have a “little man” to make some photos, but my daughter is a great model even when she is wearing boyish stuff 🙂
About Design
This ” Little Man Sweater” has an easy design and is a perfect project for beginners too.
We will start with the front panel, first making a ribbed band and then keep working until we get to the neck line opening or collar opening. We will let in the middle a few stitches to make later the ribbed band on the collar and work left and right side separately until we finish the front panel.
We will continue our work with the back, making 1 row to separate the 2 panel and to make the neck opening. We will do next the back panel.
Sleeves are worked directly from the back a front panels stitches. So, we don’t have to sew them to the sweater.
After finishing the sleeves we will do the ribbed band on the collar, sew the side edges and the “Little Man Sweater” is done.
The pattern is available for sizes from 2 to 8 years old. Bellow you can find the diagram with final measurements. The values between brackets are for sizes 4, 6, 8 years old. On the first line you have the values in centimeters and on the second in inches.
About Materials you will need
- Yarn
I used Scheepjes Soft Fun Denim in colors Denim Dark Blue and Denim Light Blue which is a 8 ply, Dk, Medium weight yarn
You will approximate need for each size:
- 2-3 Y – 200 grams / 560 m / 610 yds
- 4-5 Y – 240 grams / 660 m / 720 yds
- 6-7 Y – 280 grams / 790 m / 860 yds
- 8-9 y – 340 grams / 910 m / 990 yds
- 4.5 mm ( size 7) crochet hook
- 3 small buttons
- tapestry needle
- scissors
About the stitch pattern
I used for the ribbed band single crochet worked in the back loop only
For the rest of the sweater I used half double crochet but I worked the double crochet trough all 3 loops, I inserted the hook between stitches.

Gauge
14 hdc = 10 cm (4″)
15 rows = 10 cm (4″)
Abbreviations used in this pattern
Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
sc blo – single crochet in back loop only
St(s) – stitch (es)
inc – increase (2 hdc in the same st)
dec – decrease (2 sc worked together)
Ok. Let’s start to make this cute Little man Sweater
We will start with the front panel and we will work first the ribbed band.
Ribbed band
Ch 7+ 1
Row 1
1 sc in each st (7 sc). Ch 1 and turn
Row 2
1 sc blo in each st
Repeat row 2 until you have in total
2-3 Y – 40 rows
4-5 Y – 44 rows
6-7 Y – 48 rows
8-9 Y – 52 rows
Front panel
Row 1
Connect the other color that you want to use as a main color of the sweater
ch 2, 2 hdc in the first st, 1 hdc in each st until you get to the last one, 2 hdc in the last st. Ch 2 and turn
Row 2
1 hdc in each st across
Repeat row 2 until you have in total
2-3 Y – 32 rows
4-5 Y – 37 rows
6-7 Y – 39 rows
8-9 Y – 40 rows
Use 2 stitch markers to mark 4 sts in the middle

You will have for each size
2-3 Y – 19 sts left and right, 4 sts in the middle
4-5 Y – 21 sts left and rigt, 4 sts in the middle
6-7 Y – 23 sts left and right, 4 sts in the middle
8-9 Y – 25 sts left and right, 4 sts in the middle
Next, we will work left side and right side separately for:
2-3 Y – 11 rows
4- 5 Y – 12 rows
6-7 Y – 14 rows
8-9 Y – 16 rows
And the front panel is done.

You can purchase the easy printable add-free pdf pattern from here
You can now purchase the ready made item. Click here for more details
We will continue now with the back, but first we will do a separating row. If necessary connect the yarn again to start working on the wrong side of the work.
2 -3 Y ch 2, 1 hdc in the first 10 sts, ch 22, skip 9 sts, 1 hdc in the last 10 sts
4-5 Y – ch 2, 1 hdc in the first 11 sts, ch 24, skip 10 sts, 1 hdc in the last 11 sts
6-7 Y – ch 2, 1 hdc in the first 12 sts, ch 26, skip 11 sts, 1 hdc in the last 12 sts
8-9 Y – ch 2, 1 hdc in the first 13 sts, ch 28, skip 12 sts, 1 hdc in the last 13 sts
Back Panel
Row 1
1 hdc in each st. ch 2 and turn
Repeat row 2 until you have in total
2-3 Y – 42 rows
4-5 Y – 48 rows
6-7 Y – 51 rows
8-9 Y – 55 rows
Last row
ch 1, 1 dec, 1 hdc in each st until you have 2 sts left, 1 dec
After finishing the hdc rows on the back panel we have to add the ribbed band
Face your work on the right side. Start to work from your right to the left (for right-handed).
Row 1
Insert the hook and change yarn color in the first st. Ch 8. 1 sc in each st (7 sc), sl st in the next 2 sts. of the back side
Row 2
1 sc blo in each st, ch 1 and turn
Row 3
1 sc blo in each st, sl st in the next 2 sts of the back side.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you get to the end of the back panel width.
Sleeves
face your work on the right side.
Starting from the middle row that we made between back panel and front panel, mark on the back panel and on the front panel:
2-3 Y – 18 sts
4-5 Y – 20 sts
6-7 Y – 22 sts
8-9 Y – 24 sts

2-3 Y
Row 1
Starting with first marked stitch make 1 hdc in each st until you get to the second stitch marker.
Row 2
1 dec (2 sc together), 1 hdc in each st until you have 2 sts left, 1 dec, ch 2 and turn.
Rows 3-4
1 hdc in each st
Repeat rows 2-4 7 times until you have in total 22 rows
Rows 23 – 27
1 hdc in each st
4-5 Y
Row 1
Starting with first marked stitch make 1 hdc in each st until you get to the second stitch marker.
Row 2
1 dec (2 sc together), 1 hdc in each st until you have 2 sts left, 1 dec, ch 2 and turn.
Rows 3-5
1 hdc in each st
Repeat rows 2-5 8 times until you have in total 33 rows
Rows 34 – 35
1 hdc in each st
6-7 Y
Row 1
Starting with first marked stitch make 1 hdc in each st until you get to the second stitch marker.
Row 2
1 dec (2 sc together), 1 hdc in each st until you have 2 sts left, 1 dec, ch 2 and turn.
Rows 3-5
Repeat rows 2-5 9 times until you have in total 37 rows
Rows 37 – 39
1 hdc in each st
8-9 Y
Row 1
Starting with first marked stitch make 1 hdc in each st until you get to the second stitch marker.
Row 2
1 dec (2 sc together), 1 hdc in each st until you have 2 sts left, 1 dec, ch 2 and turn.
Rows 3-5
Repeat rows 2-5 10 times until you have in total 41 rows
Rows 42 – 46
1 hdc in each st
After finishing the rows in hdc add the ribbed band in the same way as you did on the back panel.
Ribbed band on the collar
face your little man sweater with the right side.
We are starting to work first the left side (the right side of the sweater)
Row 1
insert the yarn in the last st of those 4 that we let in the middle. make 1 sc crochet in each st. Sl st in the next 2 rows of the left side edge. Turn.
Row 2
Work 1 sc blo in each of the 4 sts. ch 1 and turn.
Row 3
1 sc blo, ch 1, skip 1 ( to make one button-hole), 1 sc blo in the last 2 sts join with 2 sl sts.
Continue like this until you finish the ribbed band.
Repeat row 3 one more time along to make another button-hole
*you will join the ribbed band with the sweater in the same way as you did with the others ribbed band that you made, with 2 sl st.
When you are making the ribbed band on the other side, you will have to start from the top, because we have to work from right to left, facing the sweater on the right side.
So, insert the hook in the first stitch, Ch 5, 1 sc in each st ( 4 sc), join with 2 sl st.
Proceed the same as you did on the other ribbed band. When you get to the end you will have to sew the bottoms.
Collar
Insert the iarn and hook in the first stitch of the left side (right side of the sweater)
Ch 8, turn and make 1 sc in each st. Join with 2 sl st.
On the 3rd row make 1 last button-hole
Proceed the same as you did before and make the ribbed band all over the neck line.
After finishing the collar, sew the side edges of the sweater and 3 small buttons on the collar and your Little Man Sweater is done.

You can purchase the easy printable add-free pdf pattern from here
Hope you enjoyed this pattern and if it was something unclear you can watch the video tutorial bellow.

https://ro.pinterest.com/katerina6795/free-crochet-patterns/
![Left Over Yarn Purse I know that we still have a full month of summer, but I’m trying to make some stash cleaning to have enough space for the autumn-winter yarn . This was the idea when I made this purse and because it’s super easy and fast to make and also a stash buster, I was thinking that you might be interested to see how you can make it. About Design The Design of this Left Over Yarn Purse is super simple. We will work one circle and the good part is that with the circle you will have to stop when you have the desired measurements of the purse/bag. This means that you can make it even bigger. The front side is made by starting decreasing without working the entire stitches of the circle. The flap is actually part of the back side, folded over the front side. Materials You will need: • Yarn I used 6 strands of fingering, 4 ply yarn, but you can use 3 strand of DK or sport or 2 strand of worsted weight yarn or you can work with one strand of thicker yarn. Whatever you have left over you can use it. • Crochet Hook 6 mm ( size L) crochet hook • Tapestry needle • Bag Closure (any type, even a magnetic closure or a simple button if you want) • Bag strap (or you can make a crocheted cord) • Scissors • Stitch markers (optional) About the yarn I used As I said I used fingering cotton yarn, Rainbow Cotton 8/4 from Hobbii. Each strand of 6th I used are of different color and that’s why the marble effect which I love. Final measurements The purse measures 24 cm wide and 18 cm high, but if you are working more rounds on the main circle you can make it bigger. About the stitch pattern We will work this Left Over Yarn Purse just in double crochet, so is a perfect project for a beginner also. With this project you will learn how to work in rounds, how to incease and decrease in double crochet. Abbreviations used in this pattern: • ch - chain • dc – double crochet • sl st – slip stitch • st (s) – stitch (es) • Inc – increase (2 dc in the same st) • Dec – Decrese (2 dc worked together) Dc worked together Yarn over, yarn over insert the hook in the next st, yarn over and pull out a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on you hook. Repeat one more time and at the end yarn over and pull the yarn through all the loops on you hook. On the last row of the front side you will need to do this 8 times, working 8 dc together. Gauge • After 2 rounds the circle measured 9 cm in diameter. And I think we are done with all details and we can start. Pattern notes *Ch 2 at the beginning of the round, doesn’t count as first dc. *if you want a bigger purse, work more rounds to the main circle until you have in diameter the desired length. You will find in the pattern indication how to start the front side if you worked more round on the back Back Side Round 1 Start with a magic circle, ch 3 and make 11 more dc inside the circle. Pull the end to close the ring and join with a sl st with the 3rd st of the starting chain. Round 2 Ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st, with the 1st dc. (24 dc) Round 3 Ch 2, 1 dc in same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next]. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a sl st with first dc. (36) Round 4 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, [2 dc in next, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in last st and join with a sl st with 1st dc. (48) Round 5 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts]. Repeat tot the end of the round. Finish the round with 2 dc in last st and join with sl st with first dc. (60) Round 6 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 sts] repeat to the end of the round. Finish the round with 1 dc in the last 2 sts and join with sl st with the 1st dc. (72) And the back side of the Left Over Yarn Purse is done. Now we will start decrease and not complete the circle to make the front side. If you want a bigger purse you can work more rounds. You will increase with each next round the number of dc between 2 increases with 1. To be easier to understand what we are doing next, and how to adjust the pattern if you are working more rounds, we will divide the total number of sts, by 3, so we will have 3 sections of the circle. In our case we will have 3 section of 24 sts, one will be the flap and we won’t work those sts on our front side, and 2 section will be the front side. So, we will work the front panel just in next 48 sts and turn after each row. On the last round of the back side we had, 1 inc and 4 dc in between, so on the first row of the front side we will work 4 dc and 1 decrease. If you made your purse bigger, the first row of the front panel will be no of dc you had between increases, 1 decrease. Use 2 stitch markers to mark the 48 sts in which you will work the front side. Front side Row 1 Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, [1 dec (2 dc worked together), 1 dc in next 4]. Repeat the section until you finish all 48 sts. Finish the row with 1 dec. Ch 2 and turn (40) Row 2 1 dc in the first st, 1 dc in next 2 sts, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 3]. Repeat tot the end of the rou. Ch 2 and turn. (32) Row 3 1 dc in the 1st st, 1 dc in next, [1 dec, 1 dc in next 2 sts]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (24) Row 4 1 dc in first st, [ 1 dec, 1 dc in next]. Repeat the section to the end of the row. Ch 2 and turn (16) Row 5 1 dec x 8 times (8 sts) ch 2 and turn Row 6 8 dc together to close the circle. And Done! All you have to do is to sew the closure and the bag strap and you have nice Left over Yarn Purse to wear it this summer. Here you can find the vide tutorial in case you need it:](https://i0.wp.com/by-katerina.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/LRM_EXPORT_166146643831814_20190625_115749338.jpeg?resize=500%2C330&ssl=1)

